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Full text of "The Boston Cooking School magazine of culinary science and domestic economics"

Digitized by the Internet Archive 
in 2013 



http://archive.org/cletails/bostoncookingsch19hill_2 



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lO CENTS A COPY 







THE/' 

CGOKIRG- SCHOOL 
MACAZIISLE> 

OP CUMNAICr ^OIE/MCEy AND 
DGMiySTIC/ E/OONOMIOSl 





V^OL. VIII. JUNE-JULY, 1903 



No. 1 



i 



^ 




^ 



I 



M 



Freshly-picked Currants. From the Painting by Thornas Sedg~ivick Steele 

THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 
372 Boylston Street, Boston, MassacHusetts 



right, 1903, by the Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



Entered at Boston Post-ofEce as second-class matte 



This time the 

Ralston Purina Miller 

greets you with some 
delectable dainties and 
a dissertation on taste : ' 

"If kings have the best breakfasts — 
then here's a breakfast for a king ! — Straw- 
berries and Ralston Breakfast Food. The 
smack of the whole wheat grain and the 
flavor of the fruit combined just . . . but 
there, you can't taste words, you've got to 
try it. There's no use eating things that 
don't taste good when you can get this 
combination. Fact is, some folk don't seem 
to use their eyes, ears, or palate. Let your 
eyes enjoy the fresh green of spring, listen 
to the song of the birds, and taste the finest 
fruits of the field and garden. . . . 

** There might be a better dish than 
Ralston and berries — but some one's got 
to invent it/* 

Other Pure Food Products in Checker- 
board Packages made " where purity is para- 
mount " — at your grocer's : 

Purina Health Flour. Ralston Kornkins. 
Ralston Cereal Coffee. Ralston Health Qelatine. 
Ralston Health Oats. Ralston Baking Powder. 
Ralston Hominy Grits. Ralston Barley Food. 
Purina Pankake Flour. Ralston Health Crisps. 
The " Menu Maker " tells about them. It's Free. 

Ralston Purina Co., st. Louis. 



^ 



When you write advertisers,, please m ention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 



THE 



Boston Cooking -School Magazine 



OF 



Culinary Science and Domestic Economics. 



Volume VIII. 



June-July, 1903 — May, 1904. 



Copyright, 1903, by The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 



If 



Published Monthly^ by 

BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE. 

Publication Office: 372 Boylston Street, 

BOSTON, MASS. 



COMPLETE INDEX VOL. VIII 

June-July, 1903 — May, 1904. 



PAGE 

A Christmas Carol (Illustrated) . . . 238 

A Christmas Trio 242 

A Club Episode . ' 340 

A Company Cook (Illustrated) . . . 291 
After Breakfast Chat . . . 212,270,319 
A Handkerchief Bazaar, A Mermaid's 

Carnival 104 

A Little Talk about Weddings . . . 495 
American Housekeeping in Manila (Il- 
lustrated) 125 

A Minute Song 396 

An Autumn Longing 138 

An Incident 24 

An Irresistible Invitation 24 

An Old Art Revived 137 

April Showers 435 

Arbutus 487 

Art and Craft Creations for the Home 

(Illustrated) 335 

Artistic and Sensible Home Furnishings 

(Illustrated) 383 

A Suggestion for Summer 492 

A Text from a Cook Book 300 

At the Sign of the Honeysuckle ... 18 

A Word for the Banana 446 

Breakfast at Madame Beaucaire's . . 397 

Cakes of the Colonial Period . . . 221 

Chinese Thanksgiving (Illustrated) . . 179 

Confections for the Holidays . . . . 274 

Curly-head's Prayer 93 

Curtseys or Hand-shakes ? 394 

Dates 208 

Decorations for Christmas .... 248 

Dinner Giving in History and Fiction, 388 

Dress Coats in Family Life .... 438 

Dress for the Four-fifths 350 

Each in his own Tongue 401 

Editorials, 22, 80,, 144 198, 252, 304, 352, 402, 

450, 498 

Episodes in Simplicity 156 

Entertaining on Occasion 346 

Food-stuffs and Current Prices, 322, 372, 471 

For Cooking Game 163 

Franklin's Punch-strainer (Illustrated), 184 

Fruition 449 

Glass Houses and Stones 185 

Heredity or Self-making, which ? . . . 343 
Home Ideas and Economies . 419, 467, 514 
Honey and Honey Goodies ..... 367 
Housekeeping in Mexico . . '. . ; " * 2,50 

Housekeeping in South Sea Islands'i^lf-*; *•'• 

lustrated) . .' *. "188 

Housekeeping on the High Seas (Illus- 
trated) 479 

How Santa Claus came to Suey Hip . 239 
How to make First-class Dairy Butter ! -^92= 
Huckleberries and Blueberries . .:•.'*. ;|. 5- 

Indian Cookery '* * 218" 

In March 393 

In Reference to Recipes and Menus, 39, 97, 

160, 416, 464, 512 

Italian Chestnuts (Illustrated) . . . 130 

Kitchen Accessories (Illustrated) . . 1 34 



PAGE 

Kitchen Gardens (Illustrated) ... 3 

L'CEuf de I'Autruche (Illustrated) . . 64 

Love's Vagaries 347 

Market Day in Jamaica' (Illustrated) . 7 

May time Luncheon (Illustrated) . . 484 

Menus for April 462 

Menus for August 94 

Menus for Bachelor Maids 317 

Menus for Christmas 265 

Menus for Entertainments 366 

Menus for Family of Two 356 

Menus for February 355 

Menus for Fete Days 463 

Menus for July 37 

Menus for June 36 

Menus for March 414 

Menus for May 511 

Menus for Occasions 159,415 

Menus for October 158 

Menus for November 21 

Menus for Orphans' Home . . . . . 318 

Menus for Picnics 96 

Menus for September 95 

Menus for Sick and Convalescent . . 264 

Menus for South Carolina 267 

Menus for Spring-time 510 

Menus for Teas and Receptions . . . 316 

Menus for Thanksgiving 210 

Menus for Wedding Receptions ... 38 

Menus, Prize, for Sunday Dinner . . 370 

Menus, Seasonable 266 

My Laddie's Tree 249 

My Lady Sleeps 487 

Notes and Correspondence . . 58, 116, 230 

Novel Fads in Children's Parties . . . 196 

Novelties and Suggestions 296 

Old English Gold 222 

Original Proverbs of the Hour ... 79 

Our Castles in Spain 303 

Pointers on Preserving Fruits . . . . 100 

Prizes for Sunday Dinner Menus . . . 217 

Pure Food in Massachusetts .... 399 

Raffia Work (Illustrated) 61 

Selection and Carving of Meat and Poul- 
try for Seventy-five College Students, 245 
Selection and Preparation of Dietaries, 74 
,; Short Skirts or Trains in Church . . . 485 

Simple Living 418 

Sleep, my H^ouey.B®y,; SJecp .... 399 

'^ -^j^e:: C(5olin» Beve/agcs * ' 1 1 .... 43 

'[SV)Jti^ N«ti(!Kis.on»€6nke^y . ' . . . , 72 

Soups . . . ^ " . . . 1 39 

'^^tveet'ahd fem^side Improvement . . 19 

r i^um«ne«- Good l^mes 91 

Thanksgiving DecoBa<ioK .*.. . . . . 195 

• 'l^h&i'iil^gilvih^jDiriner, flrt Rel'erence to 214 

;'Jih*e..A'€h5eventcfit of Y'outk' . . . . 132 

The Advantages of Polyandry . . . 496 

The Breakfast Sausage xvi 

The Brooklet 445 

The Care of Milk 165 

The Dining Table 496 

The Evolution of the Menial Idea . . 348 



Complete Index 



111 



The Feeble-minded 33 

The FiHpino and his Cook-book . . . 294 

The Food Question Once More . . . 488 

The Four-leaf Clover 24 

The Gospel of Clutter 391 

The Grasshopper and Fish Foods of the 

Philippines 15 

The Happy Sunday 47 

The Heart of the Hills ...:.. 21 

The Interesting Gourd 443 

The Life of a Fir-tree -—r- 247 

The Menu on a United States Transport, 490 

The Minister and the Shirt-waist . . 12 

The New Age 131 

The Pilgrim Bird 342 

The Quaker Ladies 497 

The Rose of Roots 142 

The Sea Gardens of Avalon (Illustrated) 43 1 

The Wood Lot 76 

To the South Wind 449 

Training Schools for House workers . . 105 

Under Gray Skies 285 

Under the Dragon Lanterns (Illus- 
trated) 286 

Unwavering 440 

Welsh Rabbit 436 

What do our Homes Express .... 448 
White House Table Appointments (Il- 
lustrated) 233 

With the Starvation Army at Yale . . 441 

Queries and Answers:— 

Almond Cake . . 279 

Almond Paste 380 

Aluminum Utensils 427 

Angel Food 276 

Apple Chutney ........ 50 

Artichokes, Globe or French . . . no 

Baked Rhubarb with Orange Peel . 278 

Baked Sweetbreads with Celery Puree, 280 

Bananas a la Porto Rico .... 328 

Bananas, Baked, with Sauce . . . 328 

Banana Whip 378 

Biscuit, Baking-powder 425 

Biscuit, Sour Cream 424 

Biscuit, Yeast . . 225 

Bread and Pastry Flour ..... 378 

Bread, Oatmeal 229 

Bread, Whole-wheat and Graham . 428 

Bread with Two Yeast Cakes . . , 524 

Bread, Yeast 225 

Brussels Sprouts 115 

Buckwheat Cakes (Yeast) . . . . 377 
Buckwheat Pancakes (Baking-pow- 
der) 377 

Cafe Parfait 57 

Cake, Election 169 

Cake, Fruit, Steamed and Baked . . 226 

Cake, Fruit in 228 

Cake, Plain Fruit 227 

Cake, Raised 168 

Cakes, Baba in 

Cakes, Batter 225 

Canned Figs , . 427 

Cantaloupe, Sweet Pickle .... 50 

Caramel Custard Renversee . . . 278 

Cauliflower Souffle with Sauce . . . 176 

Chafing-dish Blazer, Use of . . . , 326 

Chestnut Custard Renversee . . . 281 



Chestnut Mush 278 

Chestnut Souffle 280 

Chestnuts, Compote of French . . 326 

Chestnuts, Glace Marrons . . , . 326 

Chicken Bouillon 174 

Chicken, Fillets of 420 

Chicken Timbales . 176 

Child's Luncheon, Suggestions for . 54 

Chocolate and Cocoa 113 

Chocolate Blanc Mange 115 

Chocolate Blanc Mange with Corn- 
starch 115 

Chocolate Icing with Syrup . . . 113 
Chocolate, Nut or Fruit Doubles (Il- 
lustrated) 279 

Chocolate Pie with Meringue . . , 175 

Classification of Foods 378 

Coffee, To roast 50 

Cook-book for Diabetics 175 

Cottage Pudding 115 

Crackers, Home-made . . . . ,325 

Cranberry Jelly, Clear 376 

Cream, Devonshire 53 

Cream, Double 519 

Cream, French 53 

Cream, Forcemeat for Macaroni Tim- 
bale 173 

Cream, Good Cheap Ice-. .... 51 

Cream, Pineapple Bavarian . . . 522 

Creamed Oysters 375 

Creaming Butter for Cake .... 424 

Creamy Sauce 280 

Cucumber Sandwiches 175 

Delmonico Ice-cream 426 

Diet for Child Two and a Half Years 

Old 376 

Diet in Rheumatism 170 

Dishes for Invalids 51 

Dressing, French 474 

Dressing, Mayonnaise 473 

Drop Cakes, Molasses 278 

Drop Cakes, Light-colored . . . . 279 

Duck, Cooking Black 224 

Dumpling, Steamed Apple . . . . 228 

Eclairs . . 169 

Egg in vShirring Cup 420 

P^ggs, Beauregard 172 

Eggs in Supreme of Chicken . . . 524 

Egg Timbales 374 

English Cream 170 

English Muffins 426 

Failure with Pound Cake .... 474 

Falling of Madeira Layer Cake . . 51 

Fifty Years in a Maryland Kitchen . 278 

Fish for Mousse and Roulettes . . 282 

Fish in Hahbut Cutlets 524 

Fondant in Bonbons, etc 225 

French Charlotte 175 

Fried Corn-meal Mush 277 

Fried Chicken, Southern vStyle . . . 224 

Frosting, Caramel 172 

Frosting, Marshmallow 172 

Frosting Small Cakes 113 

Fruit Jar 427 

Gelatine with Cherry and Pineapple 

Juice ■ . . 281 

Giblet Sauce 277 

Ginger Beer 327 

Ginger Soda-water 327 



IV 



Complete Index 



Graham Gems i68 

Graham Muffins i68 

Grape Wine 276 

Gravy and Sauce 169 

Gravy for Roast Beef and Mutton . 5 1 

Green Oysters 425 

Green Tint in Frosting 226 

Hemming a Table-cloth 55 

Ice-cream, Philadelphia 519 

Ice-cream, Strawberry 519 

Index to Magazine 277 

Javelle Water for Bleaching . . . 428 

Jelly, Grape Juice 114 

Kalfee-klatsch 279 

Kidneys Sauted 425 

Kohl Rabi 115 

Laying the Table for Breakfast . . 55 

Luncheon for Girls 475 

Luncheon Menu for Card Party . . 176 

Macaroni for Lining Moulds , . . 113 

Macaroni, ItaHan Style . . . . . 374 

Macaroni Timbales 173 

Macaroons . 169 

Macaroons, Pyramid of 324 

Man-olas 427 

Maple Icing for Cake 476 

Maple Icing with Confectioner' s Sugar, 476 

Maple Icing with Gelatine . . . . 476 

Maple Parfait ro8 

Maple Sauce 474 

Maraschino Sauce 280 

Marguerites . 380 

Marinating Chicken Salad . . . .109 

Measuring 519 

Menu for Card Party 521 

Menu for Church Supper . . . . 521 

Menu for Girls' Luncheon . . . . 377 

Menu for Missionary Tea . . . . 277 

Menu for Outdoor Dinner .... 475 

Menu for Ten Guests . 428 

Menu, Formal Luncheons .... 380 

Menus, Breakfast, for Gentlemen . . 476 

Menus for Afternoon Luncheon . . 53 

Menus for Whist Club 325 

Meringues, Forms for 112 

Mince-meat 281 

Mince-meat, Plain 227 

Mint Ice . . 223 

Mousse, Chicken-and-Sweetbread, 

Cold . 171 

Mousse, Chicken-and-Sweetbread, 

Hot 172 

Mousse, Maple -174 

Muffins, English ... ... 112 

Mushrooms, Baked under Bells . 476 

Mustard, French 327 

New York Gingerbread 427 

New York Ice-cream 426 

Numbers Recipes will serve . . . 223 

Oil of Lavender, etc. . . ... 25 8 

Omelet Celestine . 379 

Omelet Souffle in Orange Shells . . 379 

Orange Frappe 54 

Orange Jelly 521 

Oyster Cutlets 53 

Oyster Patties 377 

Oven Thermometers ... • 1 1 3 

Parfait Caramel 524 

Park Street Cake with Variations . 428 



Pastry Bag ......... 54 

Pastry Bag Tubes and Coffee-drip- 
per 523 

Pastry, Flaky 114 

Pastry, "Resting" .229 

Peppermint Drops 224 

Pfefferniisse, To keep Soft .... 51 

Pickled Walnuts ....... 53 

Pie Crust, Inexpensive Crisp . . . 282 

Pie, Custard 114 

Pineapple Caramel 524 

Pineapple Sponge 375 

Planked White Fish . . . . .327 

Potatoes, Maitre d' Hotel . . . 329 

Potatoes, Scalloped 329 

Potatoes with Rechauffe of Meat . . 329 

Pudding, Cottage 324 

Pudding, Princess 524 

Pudding, Steamed Apple . . . . 228 

Rabbits without Ale 523 

Ramekins and Oven Heat . . . . 229 

Removal cf Sepals in Artichokes . . 1 74 

rice. E oiled. Southern Style . . . 523 

R'ce, Cooked, Plain, Japanese Style . 522 

Rice Croquettes en Surprise . . . 328 

Rolling Pastry . . 282 

Roman Pudding (Illustrated) . . . 1 74 
Rose Petals and Nasturtium Blos- 
soms in Salads 109 

Rose Potpourri 112 

Royal Fruit Jar 475 

Russian Bread 282 

Rye Bread, Sticky 380 

Rye Meal and Rye Flour .... 424 

Salad, Chift'onade 524 

Salads, Serving of 473 

Sally Lunn 522 

Salted Nuts 57 

Sauce, Apricot 112 

Sauce, Coffee 112 

Sauce, Curry 1 1 1 

Sauce, Grape Juice . . . . 115,324 

Sauce, Jardiniere 379 

Sauce, Tomato 328, 374 

Sausages, Pork 226 

Scrapple, Philadelphia . . . 226, 325 

Serving Dinner \ . 56 

Serving Supper 56 

Service of Maple Syrup and Honey . 57 

Shad Roe, Broiled . 476 

Shepherd' s Pie 427 

Shortening in Crullers . . . . . 175 

Soap, Hard 324 

Soda and Cream of Tartar for Baking- 
powder 375 

Soup, Cherry-and -Pineapple . . . no 

Soup, Cream-of -Spinach 520 

Soups, Cold Fruit no 

Sponge Cake for Charlotte Russe 

Moulds 476 

Sponge for Jelly Roll 428 

Steel Knives, Care of 380 

Strawberry Mousse . . . . . . 523 

Strawberry Tapioca 524 

String Beans, Canned 52 

Supper at Fair, Oyster 227 

Supper at Fair, Turkey 227 

Sweet Pickled Peaches 109 

Sweet Pickles, Green Tomato . . . 108 



Complete Index 



Sweet Pickles, Small Cucumber . . io8 
Sweet Potatoes, Sugared . . . .224 

Syrup for Flap- jacks 229 

Syrup for Melon Mangoes . . . . 169 

Table of Four at $25 per Month . . 520 

Timbales, Chestnut 111 

Timbales, Corn . . . . . . . .111 

Timbales, Egg , . . . 1 1 1 

Time to steam Dumplings . . . . 113 

Time to steam Vegetables . . . . 113 

To clarify Frying Fat 378 

Tomatoes, Canned 52 

Venison Steak 380 

V^enison, Roasted 380 

Waldorf Triangle and Ring Pans . 522 

Whipping Cream (Illustrated) . . . 171 

White Cake 3«o 

White Sti^ck for Bechamel Sauce . 281 

Why Cake settles 426 

Wine, Blackberry 521 

Yeast Buns with Sugar and Fruit . . 282 

Yeast Cakes, Kind of 519 

Recipes : — 

A Christmas Bowl 263 

Apples, Baked 315 

Apples Stuffed with Dates (Illus- 
trated) 206 

Apricot Short-cake (Illustrated) . . 314 

Apricot Snow or Foam . . -. . . 314 

Banana Croquettes 309 

Beans, Boston Baked (Illustrated) . 202 
Beef, Minions of, with Marrow and 

Macedoine (Illustrated) .... 410 

Beef, Pressed Corned (Illustrated) . 461 

Beef Tea 453 

Biscuits, Rice ... 413 

Biscuits, Rye Meal . . . . . . 413 

Biscuits, Sour Cream 30 

Blackberry Sponge 269 

Bouillon, Beef, Served Cold , . . 405 

Broth, Scotch 453 

Brown Bread Toast with Cheese . . 365 
Brownies or Marguerites (Illustra- 
ted), 506 

Buttercups (IllustraLed) 505 

Cabinet Pudding with Bananas . . 269 
Cake, Marshmallow Chocolate (Illus- 
trated) 509 

Cake, One Egg 509 

Cake, Swedish Sponge (Illustrated) . 413 

Cake, Wedding (Illustrated) . . . 507 

Cakes, Cassava (Illustrated) . . . 459 

Cakes, Chocolate 315 

Caramel Jelly 153 

Casserole of Lamb Chops and Chest- 
nuts (Illustrated) 360 

Cauliflower Timbale (Illustrated) . . 151 

Celery and Beef Marrow 257 

Celery for the Diabetic . . . . . 209 
Charlotte Russe, Chocolate (Illus- 
trated) 363 

Charlotte Russe, Maple (Illustrated), 206 

Chestnuts Moulded in Aspic . . . 209 

Chestnut Stuffing 203 

Chicken Mousse with Nut -and -Celery 

Salad (Illustrated) 310 

Chicken, Panned (Illustrated) ... 85 
Chicken Saute, Creole Style . .269 



Chicken Saute, with Onions and Fried 

Potat<3es (Illustrated) 460 

Chocolate Caramel Icing 262 

Chow-chow 155 

Clover Leaves (Illustrated) . . . . 313 

Cocoanut Macaroons 275 

College Ices 32 

Confectioner's Caramel Frosting . . 262 
Consomme with Stuted Cucumber . 29 
Corn-bread, Way Down South (Illus- 
trated) 85 

Corn-meal Muffins 268 

Cracker Pudding 260 

Cream Dressing 508 

Croquettes, Baked Bean 203 

Croquettes, Sardine (Illustrated) . . 406 

Croquettes, Sweet Potato .... 86 

Crusts with Marrow 456 

Cucumbers, Stewed, Sauce Supreme . 29 

Custard, Apple 315 

Custard, Baked Maple (Illustrated) . 365 

Custard, Corn-meal 315 

Dates for Breakfast 268 

Deviled Crackers (Illustrated) ... 83 

Dressing, Bacon 27 

Dressing, Mayonnaise (Illustrated) . 27 
Eclairs, Sardine or Anchovy (Illus- 
trated) 147 

Egg Rings (Illustrated) 263 

Egg, Soft Cooked 454 

Eggs, Poached, Lydia Style . . . 501 
Eggs, Poached, with Asparagus (Il- 
lustrated) 461 

Eggs, Stuffed (Illustrated) 407 

English Plum Pudding (Illustrated), 259 

Fig Diamonds (Illustrated) '. . . . 315 

Fillets of Sardines (Illustrated) . . 83 

Fish and Oysters, Gerard Style . . 357 

Fish Pudding (Illustrated) .... 409 

French Grapes 275 

Frosting, Marshmallow ..... 509 

Frozen Kisses 275 

Fudge (Illustrated) 272 

Fudge (Fruit) 273 

Fudge, Maple 273 

Galantine of Chicken (Illustrated) . 503 

Glace, Marshmallow 509 

Glace Nuts .... ... 273 

Glace Sw^eets 275 

Grecian Pilau (Illustrated) ... 27 

Grecian Pilau, Ragout for ... . 28 

Graham Bread (Illustrated) . . . 315 

Grape Juice Frappe (Illustrated) . . 315 

Halibut Cutlets (Illustrated) . . . 359 

Ham Croutons (Illustrated) . . . 148 

Ham Timbales 268 

Hard Sauce 260 

Harvard Chutney .... . . 90 

Hickory Nut Cake 262 

Hot Ham Sandwiches 269 

Ice-cream, Boston Brown Bread . . 209 

Ice-cream, Caramel (Illustrated) . . 154 

Ice-cream, Chestnut (Illustrated) . . 364 

Ice-cream in Jelly Cups (Illustrated), 263 

Icing, Caramel Marshmallow . . . 315 

Italian Mousse (Illustrated) . . . 155 

Japanese Koto 90 

JelUed Apples and Oranges (Illus- 
trated) 260 



VI 



Complete Index 



Jelly, Apple and Raspberry (Illus- 
trated) 412 

Jelly-an<l-Chocolate Bonbons . . . 274 
Jelly and Cream in Pear Meringues 

(Illustrated) 263 

jelly, Rhubarb and Raisin (Illus- 
trated) 509 

Lamb, l.oin of, Stufied and Roasted 

(Illustrated) 410 

Lamb with Banana Croquettes (Il- 
lustrated) 309 

Macaroni with Bacon and Cheese . . 29 

Maitre d' Hotel Butter 150 

Mangoes, Nutmeg-melon (Illustrated), 89 

Maple-and-Nut Creams 273 

Marshmallow Parfait (Illustrated) . 361 

Mutton Broth 307 

Mutton Stew 307 

Oatmeal with Shced Bananas (Illus- 
trated) 313 

Olives Stufled with Anchovies . . 83 
Omelet, Barnard College Girls' . . 84 
Omelet, Burnt Almond . . . . . 413 
Omelet, Columbia College .... 84 
Omelet, Mushroom-and-Marrow^ (Il- 
lustrated) 411 

Oriental DeHght . . . . . .275 

Oyster Cocktails (Illustrated) . . . 150 
Oyster Cocktail in Lemon Cups (Il- 
lustrated) 460 

Oysters, Jellied Mayonnaise of (Illus- 
trated) 311 

Parfait, Tutti Frutti (Illustrated) . 459 

Park Street Cake 261 

Pastry, Flaky (Illustrated) . . . 204 

Penuchie (Illustrated) 273 

Petite Marmite (Illustrated) . . . 455 

Pies, Chicken and-Oyster ." . . . 205 

Pineapple Fritters (Illustrated) . . 30 

Pineapple Sauce 31 

Planked Sirloin (Illustrated) ... 456 

Pork Apple Pie i55 

Potato Bread 258 

Potatoes, Boiled, Cheese Sauce . . 29 

Potatoes Stew^ed with Bacon ... 84 

Pudding, Blackberry (Illustrated) . 88 

Pudding, Inexpensive Berry ... 87 

Pudding, Sauce for 87 

Pudding, Steamed Corn-meal . . . 209 
Pudding, Steamed Entire-wheat . . 509 
Pudding, Steamed Savoy (Illus- 
trated) 504 

Pudding, Thanksgiving (Illustrated), 207 

Punch, Roman 32 

Raisins, Deviled 4^5 

Red Snapper, Baked . . . . . . 148 

Red Snapper, Broiled i49 

Red Snapper, Saute 148 

Rice Griddle Cakes i55 

Rice Timbales, Creole Style . . . 502 

Rice with Bacon .... . . 268 

Risotto 268 

Rizzoletti (Illustrated) 308 

Roast Quail (Illustrated) . . . . 151 
Rolled Lettuce Sandwiches (Illus- 
trated) 258 

Rhubarb Pie 31 

Russian Bread (Illustrated) . . . 152 

Rye Bread (Illustrated) 502 



PAGE 

Salad, Apple-and-Celery (Illustrated), 152 
Salad, Boston Baked Bean (Illus- 
trated) 361 

Salad, Cucumber-and-Lettuce (Illus- 
trated) 25 

Salad, Currant Jelly-and-Cream 

Cheese 413 

Salad, Duck and Orange (Illu.strated), 151 

Salad, Egg (Illustrated) 26 

Salad, Pish in Shell (Illustrated) . . 150 
Salad, Grape Fruit (Illustrated) . . 313 
Salad in Aspic Cups (Illustrated) . . 259 
Salad, Frune-and-Pecan-nut (Illus- 
trated) .S08 

Salad, String Bean in Crown of Eggs 

(Illustrated) 461 

Salad, Tomato Jelly-and-Asparagus 

(Illustrated) 458 

Salmon Timbales en Surprise . . . 357 
Salpicon of Fruit, Waldorf Astoria 

Style (Illustrated) 502 

Salsify, Creamed, au Gratin (Illus- 
trated) 408 

Salsify Fritters en Surprise .... 409 

Salsify Soup, Cream of 408 

Sandwiches, Bacon 87 

Sandwiches, Bloater Paste and Rye 

Bread 87 

Sandwiches, Fried Oyster . . . 313 

Sandwiches, Noisette (Illustrated) . 87 

Sauce, Asparagus 501 

Sauce, Bernaise 1 49 

Sauce, Blackberry, Hard (Illustrated), 89 

Sauce, Blackberry, Liquid .... 89 

Sauce, Brown Mushroom .... 458 

Sauce, Chaudfroid 504 

Sauce, Coffee i54 

Sauce, Liquid 208 

Sauce, Marmalade 5^5 

Sauce, Mock Hollandaise .... 358 

Sauce, Paprika 359 

Sauce, Tomato and Chaudfroid . . 148 

Scallop Croquettes (Illustrated) . . 256 

Sherbet, Currant-and-Raspberry . . 32 

Sherbet, Tomato (Illustrated) ... 362 

Snow Balls (Illustrated) 506 

Soup, Cocoanut, Giblet, Okra . . . 255 

Soup, Cream-of-Corn ...... 201 

Soup, Cream-of -Chestnut . . . . 201 

Soup, Oyster 201 

Spaghetti 208 

Strawberries k la Louis Sherry . . 32 

Strawberry Cream 32 

Strawberry Cream, Syrup for . . . 32 
String Beans with Bacon .... 29 
String Beans with Cream .... 29 
Stuffed Baked Apples ..... 269 
Tapioca Pudding a la Francjaise (Il- 
lustrated) 31 

Timbales, Pea (Illustrated) .... 86 

Timbales, Squash 208 

Tomatoes, Scalloped 365 

Tomato Jelly 458 

Venetian Eggs 3^5 

Violet Balls 274 

Waffles, with Peach Preserves (Illus- 
trated) 205 

Waldorf Triangles (Illustrated) . 263 




fcJO 



Th 



e 



Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



Vol. VIII. 



JUNE -JULY. 



No. I 




pfeT 




Kitchen Gardens 

Bv Henry Lewis Johnson 



WHETHER in city or country 
home, the kitchen garden, 
is essential to its complete 
domesticity. The misfortune of the 
social and domestic conditions, which 
have been developed by life in 
apartments, flats, and blocks, is seen 
in impoverished and restless lives. 
Those who live under these artificial 
conditions are impoverished, in spite 
of conveniences and appointments, 
because they lose all touch with 
the economic and practical sides of 
life. Childhood and youth, which 
know nothing of green grass and trees, 
save from city lots and public parks, 
are deprived of the knowledge, enjoy- 
ment, and self-reliance which come 
from actually doing things in gardens, 
fields, and woods. 



The suburbanite, toiling with his 
lawn mower or grubbing in his garden, 
is a favorite topic for caricature and 
humor. No doubt there are some who 
come near the pulling up of plants to 
watch the roots grow, and others cen- 
tre their interest upon some particular 
flower or vegetable. The practical 
and economic side of the kitchen gar- 
den needs no defence, as even in a 
much limited form it is an important 
factor in supplying the table with 
fruits and vegetables in season, as well 
as in adding to the attractiveness and 
value of home grounds. 

AVhether at the remote farm, town, 
or suburban home, the kitchen garden 
has its own important place. At 
the farm, it is not the broad acres 
that supply the various and seasonable 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 




I Fruit-trees 5 2 Currant Bushes 5 3 Asparagus 5 4 Rhubarb ; 5 Lettuce 5 6 Peas j 
7 String Beans, Butter Beans ; 8 Potato Patch ; 9 Cabbage Patch 5 i o Tomato Plants 5 
1 1 Squash Bed ; 12 Beets and Turnips 5 13 Blackberry and Raspberry Bushes 5 14 Corn 
Patch ; I 5 Pole Beans 5 1 6 Grape-vine 



Kitchen Gardens 



fruits and vegetables, but the kitchen 
garden, which is often no larger than 
that of the ordinary suburban lot. 
It is not the purpose of this article 
to discuss what to plant or methods 
of cultivation, but rather to consider 
form and arrangement, such as is 
suggested by the growing interest in 
the improvement of home grounds and 
landscape gardening effects. 



of the garden is enclosed by a hedge 
of fruit-trees, grape-vines, and black- 
berries, etc. Much of the value of 
a kitchen garden is in the small 
fruits and hardy plants, which yield 
their tribute in season with a fresh- 
ness and flavor that even outweighs 
their economic value. All hardy 
shrubs and plants should be grouped 
by themselves or, at least, by the 




Garden in Suburbs of Boston showing Planting and Foliage Effects with Currant Bushes, 
Grape-vines, Quince and Pear Trees 



It is one of the conditions of gar- 
dening that in the spring and fall, and 
during the rotation of crops, there is 
much bare or scantily covered ground. 
While this is not always unsightly, 
it is best to have it partly obscured 
by the proper setting of trees, vines, 
and shrubbery. This method is in- 
dicated in the accompanying plan of 
grounds and garden. In the view 
from the street, or, in fact, on all sides 
except the south, the broken ground 



sides of the garden, so that the ground 
to be ploughed and cultivated may 
be in a separate plot. Otherwise, 
the roots and branches are in danger 
of being damaged or broken. 

In place of the earth walks, which 
often are too soft or muddy to walk 
on, and which must have constant 
care, to keep them free from weeds, 
turf walks and borders require less 
care, are easier to walk on and 
pleasanter to look upon. The proper 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



placing of small fruits and vines will 
produce formal or decorative effects, 
which will be, in a large measure, just 
as attractive as shrubs and flowers. 
That is, currant bushes, rhubarb, 
and pole beans compare well, in foliage 
and color effects, with spiraea, cannas, 
and holh^hocks. It generally follows, 
however, that he who has a good 
kitchen garden has also a place for 
the purely decorative plants. 

Barberry bushes make an attractive 
hedge, and can be used to good ad- 
vantage in screening off hen-yards or 
broken ground. They are one of the 
earliest shrubs to leaf out in the spring, 
and their white, bell-like blossoms are 
by no means to be disparaged. In the 
late fall their clusters of crimson ber- 
ries add brightness and color when all 
other fruits have gone by. The use of 
barberries for canning with other fruits 
is not very general, but the rich tart 
flavor of the berries combines well 
with that of milder fruits. 

The location of trees and shrub- 



bery is indicated upon the accom- 
panying plan. It is desirable to have 
the largest trees at the north of the 
house, to break the cold winter winds 
and to furnish in summer cool shade 
and playground. Bedding and foli- 
age plants give color and decoration 
in plots at the front, and these are 
not so high as to obstruct the view. 
The corners and angles of the house 
may be concealed by clumps of hardy 
growth. The lawn should not be 
cut up into beds, nor spotted here 
and there with trees and shrubs. 
It should be framed or set off by 
green — not in continuous borders 
to restrict the view or destroy the 
perspective. 

To lay out home grounds and 
gardens is worthy of one's best ef- 
fort; "and a man shall ever see that, 
when ages grow to civility and ele- 
gancy, men come to build stately, 
sooner than to garden finely, as if 
gardening were the greater perfec- 
tion." 



The Stolen Lace 



AWORKINGMAN reared a 
young blackbird, not shutting 
her into a cage, but letting 
her fly in and out at the windows. 
When she was a year old, one spring 
morning she appeared with a mate, 
who, seeing how bold his wife was, 
ventured to perch on the kitchen win- 
dow-sill, though he could not make 
up his mind to come an}^ further. The 
hen-bird chose the kitchen dresser for 
her home, and built a beautiful nest 
between two plates which stood on it. 
The good woman of the house wanted 
to use her plates; and, in taking one 
down, she pulled the nest to pieces. 
But the blackbird was determined 
to have her way, and built another in 
the same place. This time she was 



left alone. One day the woman, who 
took in washing, went out for a little 
while, leaving some lace which she 
was ironing on the table. She missed 
it when she came back, and after a 
time found that Mrs. Blackbird had 
taken a fancy to it as a bed for her 
little ones. It was nicely woven in 
and out, and she was sitting on it in tri- 
umph. Loath to disturb her pet and 
yet afraid of offending the lady to 
whom the lace belonged, the laundress 
went to its owner and begged her to 
come and see where it was. I am 
glad to tell you that, after admiring 
the little sitter and her home, the lady 
allowed the bird full possession of the 
stolen goods till she had reared her 
young.— Christian Register. 




Jamaicans 



Market Day in Jamaica 

By Martha L. Roberts 



WHEN we "ring up" a mar- 
ket miles away, and in a 
short time receive at our 
door all the delicacies needed for our 
table, we seldom give a moment's 
thought to the conveniences and 
labor-saving methods of our modern 
life; but a visit to a gay, open-air 
market, under the blue sky and 'mid 
the green luxuriance of the A^^'est 
Indies, awakens us to a conscious- 
ness of the great achievements of our 
scientific century. 

On a green-carpeted plateau, among 
the mountains of the beautiful island 
of Jamaica, miles away from any 
railroad, lies a most ideal and pictur- 
esque village. There, near the centre 
of the square, stand the court-house 



and the "lockup," lacking in pict- 
uresqueness, it is true; but their 
straight lines and forbidding exte- 
rior are symbolic of the stern justice 
of English law and the punishment 
awaiting the unlucky native who 
m.ay appropriate a shilling's worth 
of yams. Across the square, on the 
outskirts of the village, stands the 
venerable church, the stone exterior 
peeping through vines here and there, 
showing reddish in the sunlight, while 
in the churchyard about the slabs 
and marbles bloom star-flowers and 
never-dying roses. Here and there 
may be seen some quaint one-story 
wooden shop, with bandanna hand- 
kerchiefs, ippi-appi hats, and brace- 
lets attractively exposed to view, 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 




Market Day 

beside the more necessary cooking 
utensils, and the ever-present bottles 
containing liquid fire. 

In the south-east corner is a large 
enclosed area, which is the market- 
place for the region all about. This 
remains silent and deserted during 
the greater part of the week, but on 
Friday afternoons there is a bustle 
and stir and holiday air in prepa- 
ration for the great 
event of the mor- 
r o w, "Market 
Day." And from 
now until Satur- 
day's sun is near its 
setting the newly 
arrived visitor to 
the enchanted isle 
watches with ever- 
increasing interest 
the panorama, and 
leaves the scene for 
a time only to hurry 
back and gaze upon 
some new and im- 
expected sight. 
Such tall palms, 
such immense Cot- 
tonwood trees, such 



bright foliage, such 
scarlet flowers, such 
deep-cut, ravine - like 
roads of a tan color, 
forming so vivid a 
background to the 
gayly bedecked 
throngs! One trembles 
lest he awaken, and 
find it all a dream. 

Now one hears the 
patter of feet, and soon 
distinguishes the hope- 
less, dejected head of a 
donkey, almost hidden 
by the huge panniers 
piled high with vegeta- 
bles. Trotting along 
by his side, keeping up 
with his speed without difficulty, is a 
tall, erect woman, of jet-black skin, one 
hand swinging vigorously at her side, 
the other guiding the donkey by a 
rope, while easily poised upon her 
head is an immense tray loaded 
with "goodies" for the market. Here 
comes another dark-hued woman, 
both arms easily swinging, but a 
bushel basket, piled to the brim with 




Market Day in Jamaica 



vegetables, carefully balanced upon 
her bandanna, and no hat pin to hold 
it, either. Now one with a basket 
of sugar on her head, and atop the 
whole rests a commonplace sailor hat. 
Hats are esteemed a great luxury in 
this far-off village, though the proud 
possessors perch them airily on top 
of their burdens. Thus feminine 
vanity repeats itself: the woman of 
to-day has borrowed from early bar- 
baric customs the bracelets and rings 
and necklaces, and in turn has filled 
the native Jamaican with envy and 
a great longing to possess such a use- 
less piece of elegance. And still they 
come hurrying toward the market, 
all with their wares aloft on their 
heads, and one never ceases wonder- 
ing why they do not fall off; for the 
bearer seems utterly oblivious of their 
presence, and the airy position seems 
in no wise affected by the little nod 
or the deep courtesy which accompa- 
nies the invariable "Good-mornin', 
Missie." All wear a bandanna wotmd 
about the head. There are the old 
and faded ones, whose colors are 
no longer discernible; the spotless 
white ones and the new ones of bright 
color and fantastic designs, with their 
knotted ends standing out stiffly. 
Their dresses aie of every color and 
design, from the straight scant skirt, 
serving only the strictly utilitarian 
purpose of a covering, to the em- 
broidered and flounced skirt of the 
style of a year ago, the priceless gift of 
a philanthropic tourist. Little are 
their minds disturbed by the vexa- 
tious problem of short skirt or long 
skirt, for a piece of rope tied about 
their hips just below the waist en- 
ables them to elevate their skirts to 
a comfortable length, displaying bare 
feet and ankles. 

In gala array do they all come, 
having donned their best clothes for 
market day, though, to keep them 



fresh and clean, many have impro- 
vised a dressing-room out of the thick 
shrubbery, from which they proudly 
emerge in festive attire, bearing their 
workaday clothes among the cakes 
and sweets on their heads. A long, 
long journey have they come, for this 
is the market for those who live even 
twenty miles distant. And, in order 
to be on hand early for the best bar- 
gains, most of them travel on Friday, 
spending the night by their wares in 
the market. Nor do they suffer from 
a night in the open air in this en- 
chanted land, where the deadly chill 
of the east wind is unknown, and 
dampness and fog dissolve in a trice, 
leaving no reminder that they once 
have been. But tliey arise early 
the next morning, freshened by their 
night in the open, and with bright 
eyes and smiling lips accost their 
neighbors in a friendly way, or pre- 
pare for the day's sales. 

But not all who come are women, 
though the men seem to be outdone 
in numbers and picturesqueness of 
pose and costume. They, too, bear 
merchandise on their heads, though 
many possess a donkey as a beast 
of burden, and some do not scruple 
to mount the poor creature, already 
overloaded. Some of the men are 
driving cattle, and others little black 
pigs, which are to be killed and sold 
in the market the next day; and the 
owner's income for weeks will depend 
upon the day's sales, for, in the ab- 
sence of ice, in this warm clime the 
unsold balance cannot be kept until 
the next market-day. 

But one cannot loiter too long out- 
side, for the ever-changing scene in 
the market allures him on. The 
group about the entrance is waiting 
only, until the twopence or three- 
pence has been paid for the privilege 
of selling the goods brought, or, in 
the case of a load brought by a don- 



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The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



key, a sixpence is required. Inside the 
gates there seems to be space for no 
more displays. The counters along 
the pavilion seem all taken, and every 
available spot on the ground has some 
one with something to sell. But each 
new-comer finds a place and a welcome 
from others, and nowhere is seen any 
pushing or striving to be first, nor is 
angry word heard, but harmony and 
good nature prevail ; a smile or pleas- 
ant word is for everybody. When a 
sudden shower comes up, they all 
scurry under cover for shelter. But 
showers do not last long in this land, 
and a few minutes after a drenching 
rain the sun will be shining brightly, 
and the heightened color of the foliage 
is the only reminder of . the recent 
dampness. 

A simple glance at the meat mar- 
ket, with its chops and bacon, fish 
and fresh- water lobsters, suffices; for 
it is feared that a too close inspec- 
tion might lead to unpleasant remem- 
brances later, when studying the bill 
of fare. 

Though tobacco shops have not 
usually offered any special attraction, 
there was a fascination in lingering 
about the huge coils of tobacco, about 
as big as one's thumb, and seeing the 
seller, with his yard-stick, measure 
off a yard or two of the stuff, which 
the purchaser in turn rolls up and puts 
in his pocket. The cheap jewelry, 
collar buttons, pins, etc., were much 
like the displays seen at fairs every- 
where; but the mellow, melodious 
voices praising the goods and offer- 
ing some elaborate gewgaw for "four- 
pence 'a'penny" prove entrancing to 
Northern ears, accustomed to the 
shrill tones of the usual hawkers. 

Now we are attracted by a lot of 
casava bread, — large, white, taste- 
less cakes of casava, baked in flat 
disks. The cakes or sweets of the 
native Jamaican are to be looked at 



rather than eaten, in spite of the 
tempting display and the smiling 
inducement, "Only an 'a'penny." 
The dark hue of these sweets is due 
to the very dark sugar. This is sold 
in round lumps, flattened at both 
ends, as large as a small bowl, of a 
texture similar to maple sugar, but of 
the color of dark molasses; and the 
price is three cents. We found a 
bargain in a small piece for a ha'- 
penny, and quite enjoyed nibbling 
on it from time to time, much pre- 
ferring sweetmeats in the pure state 
to the highly colored confections of 
the market. 

But the emancipation of woman 
has advanced here further than in 
more enlightened communities, and 
that, too, without giving rise to 
the troublesome "woman question," 
either. For one woman succeeds in 
creating a comer in sugar every week 
in her little neighborhood, eighteen 
miles away. She has little to bring 
to the market save the profits of her 
last transaction in cash; but she pur- 
chases as much sugar as she can carry, 
paying about $i for it. This she 
sells to her neighbors ;" and her invest- 
ment is managed with such sagacity 
that she makes a profit of 50 per 
cent., which enables her to live in 
almost royal luxury for a week, envied 
by those who have not such a 
keen eye to business. Some of the 
poor women sit all day in the hot sun, 
breaking stones by the side of the 
road, and receive only a sixpence for 
a long day's work. But strikes are 
unknown in this region; and these 
simple beings are satisfied that they 
have all their rights, and are not agi- 
tated by vexatious comparisons. 

Yonder is a huge mass of pottery 
borne aloft on a tray. There are 
water jugs, rude in structure and un- 
couth in design, but of a certain at- 
tractiveness, because of their very 



Shovel Cookery 



II 



uncouthness. The pitchers are too 
broad and too tall to have any charm. 
The big bowls, glazed inside, look 
tempting; but the seventeen hundred 
miles between here and their final 
destination render too bulky pur- 
chases impossible. But we must have 
a water jug; and we bear one off in 
triumph, on approval, to see if it can 
be packed in the trunk, the owner 
calmly intrusting to an entire stranger 
what must have represented a small 
fortune. 

The fresh fruits, offered with allur- 
ing smiles by dark-hued lassies, proved 
an irresistible temptation, — luscious 
oranges, yellow and red bananas, huge 
pineapples, bright-skinned tangerines, 
mangoes with their peachy glow, pur- 
ple star-apples, rough-skinned sour 
sop, and the melon-like pawpaw. But, 
as so many of the native fruits are 
difficult to eat without long practice 
or proper preparation, we were content 
with those better known, quite con- 
gratulating ourselves on the big supply 
that a half- penny would procure. 

The vegetables exposed for sale are 
not picturesque, but they are the 
chief articles of food for the native. 



The yams, a kind of tuber, not unlike 
the sweet potato in shape, though 
much larger, seemed the largest prod- 
uct. Peas, beans, and lentils were 
there, too, served in cuplike measures 
and carried off in baskets. There are 
baskets everywhere. No one is with- 
out at least one, and much do they 
add to the charm of the place. And 
those for sale are so cheap, ranging 
in price from a penny to a shilling. 
There are long baskets and flat ones, 
big round baskets and tall slender 
ones, cradle-like baskets and ladies' 
work-baskets; and nowhere do we 
find the price advanced because Amer- 
icans are rich and can pay any- 
thing. 

As the day draws to its close, the 
market is deserted, the village green 
has lost its gala-day appearance, and 
the tropical darkness of the early 
evening suddenly settles down, with 
stars twinkling brightly here and 
there, while the western sky is still 
emblazoned by the lurid gleam from 
the setting sun, while Venus and the 
tiny crescent of the new moon are 
faintly discernible amid the glowing 
splendors of the night. 



Shovel Cookery 



WE have all heard of "hoe 
cake," and found that it is 
not made on a garden hoe 
nor in a Hoe press; but a shovel can 
be used in cooking, for the writer has 
seen it done. 

Walking down a quiet little street, 
where some asphalt paving was being 
repaired, she saw some coals had been 
drawn from the blazing boiler, and 
stooping by them was a well-dressed 



workingman. He held a big shovel, 
black with former coatings of liquid 
asphalt, on which he was heating slices 
of bread, and beside these were slices 
of meat to be reheated also. 

This surely was light housekeeping, 
or a hint for campers or soldiers ; but, 
oh! for a clean shovel that had only 
been thrust into mother earth, not 
one that would flavor a luncheon with 
asphalt.—/, v. C, 



The Minister and the Shirt-waist 

By Helen Campbell 



NEITHER the minister nor 
the shirt-waist was an ab- 
stract noun. Far from it. 
He was big and strong, with a look of 
power, and a deep yet mellow voice, 
which rejoiced the ears of his hearers. 
His eyes, under shaggy brows, could 
twinkle with humor or flash with 
scorn of all mean things; and they 
spoke for him at times more plainly 
even than he knew. They were doing 
it to-day, though he was not really 
at home in his own church rooms, 
where people knew precisely what 
to expect, and made all due allow- 
ance. On the contrary, he was the 
guest of the day in an association 
of women banded to go to the bot- 
tom of the domestic service problem, 
and turn the tide from the factory 
once more toward the kitchen, — the 
kitchen with some twentieth-century 
concessions and additions. 

As probable suggest er, then, of said 
additions and suggestions, this man 
was here, — this man who at times 
upbraided women for the things they 
did even more than for the things 
they did not do, and whose thought 
of the twentieth century traveled 
in lines not yet, it seemed, visible to 
the enthusiasts before him, bUt who 
was still in demand in every club in 
the big city, since his word carried 
weight and his presence alone seemed 
a solution of half the problem at 
least. 

What he was doing to-day was 
not quite clear, and the stout lady 
on his left, who was to follow him 
as speaker, eyed him suspiciously. 
His hands held a brown paper packet, 
and his eyes traveled steadily over 
the well-filled room, evidently en- 



gaged in an examination so close that 
most of the women who noted it put 
up hands to feel if aught was amiss 
with the masses of velvet and chiffon 
and plumes doing duty as hats. But 
now the chairman had ended all 
preliminaries, and turned for the mo- 
ment to their distinguished guest. 

"We. are most happy in having 
with us to-day," etc., and the rev- 
erend gentleman, in another moment, 
was on his feet, and, still holding the 
packet, moved quietly to the desk, 
with that expression of full leisure 
for whatever the twentieth century 
might present that had long been 
an exasperation to the energetic 
women before him. 

"My text is here," he said with 
a little smile, as he unwound the 
string, "but it's wording came from 
one of yourselves as I entered. My 
unknown friend said, 'It's all very 
well to talk about simplification of 
living; but how are you going to 
bring it about?' I answer, By a 
reconstruction of ideals for one thing; 
and I hold up before you, for your 
very serious consideration, a thing, 
which I discover has some duplicates 
or approximations in the audience, 
and which is one portion of the 
domestic service difficulty." 

A little stir went through the room, 
but he continued calmly: "I have 
here in my hand what is known, I 
believe, as a shirt-waist, — an informal 
title suggesting ease, comfort, and 
simplicity. It was presented to my 
daughter, who is not, at present, aware 
that it is here in illustration, and 
it is of a material supposedly wash- 
able." And now he held up before 
them a delicate, fine, white woollen 



The Minister and the Shirt-waist 



13 



shirt-waist. "In our city this can- 
not be worn many times without 
washing. Let us see how it lends 
itself to that necessary operation. 
First, we have a top, — a species of 
yoke, it appears, — and a part of the 
sleeves covered with heavy lace, a 
form of decoration which I am in- 
clined to approve. But the feminine 
mind appears this year unable to stop 
at lace or anything else alone. You 
observe that the lower edge of this 
top has sewn to it very extremely 
narrow bands of fur, — a combination 
so incongruous as to discount the 
common sense of both designer and 
wearer. But that is not enough. 
On this lace are sewed, also, what, 
I am told, are incrustations of col- 
ored silk, below certain ovals in the 
pattern, and outlined with gilt thread. 
In short, whatever device could be 
adopted to make a wash article 
unwashable, the mind of woman has 
evolved. 'Dry cleaning,' I am told, 
can be done for a dollar or so; but a 
salaried man and a working- woman 
fare ill when this price must be paid 
for the cleanliness of a single gar- 
ment. We open the twentieth cen- 
tury with this ideal of beauty and fit- 
ness and desirability, and then ask 
as to the future of the domestic ser- 
vice problem. My friends, I will 
say, with a far wiser man than I, 
that, before the twentieth century has 
finished its course, there will be no 
domestic servant, since, in the first 
place, the really reformed and happy 
family will not want one any more 
than it will want a shirt-waist of this 
order; and, in the second place, th.ey 
will not get one, if they do. Let us 
hope that will be true for the waist 
also. And," he continues, at another 
point, "hardly any woman seems to 
object to a system of things which 
provides that another woman should 
be made rough -handed and kept 



rough-minded for her sake; but, with 
the enormous diffusion of leveling 
information that is going on, a per- 
fectly valid objection will probably 
come from the other side in the 
transaction." 

A stir went through the audience, 
but the minister went on unmoved: 
"What is likely to happen? As soon 
as we stop twiddling away at the 
twigs and get down to the roots, 
first will be the building of some 
experimental labor-saving houses. 
What does that mean? For one 
thing, that heat will be applied in 
walls from some central power-sta- 
tion, and coal-carrying and dirt-dif- 
fusion cease on that side. Gas and 
metals that tarnish in its use mean 
more labor, but gas will soon be no 
more. And, when baseboards meet 
the floor with the sharp angle rounded 
off, sweeping, too, will be a different 
matter. Also, it will presently be 
possible to immerse all dirty dishes 
in some suitable solvent for a few 
minutes, and 'then run it off for all 
to dry. As to cooking, an electric 
range is on the way, with thermom- 
eters, heat screens, controllable tem- 
peratures, etc., and it is thus possi- 
ble, he tells us, ' ' that cooking might 
become a pleasant amusement for in- 
telligent invalid ladies. I may add 
that in this sort of house there 
will be no chimneys, save a flue for 
kitchen smells. But the kitchen of 
the future we shall learn how to 
deodorize as well as some other things ; 
and the roof of the future will be 
a roof garden, if in the city, and a 
playground and solarium, wherever it 
is, though the day of the garden city 
is already nearing, and the home of 
the future will be in a garden once 
more, and little figures will be going 
to and fro amid the trees and flowers, 
knowing them all as friends. A cer- 
tain proportion of women will for 



H 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



long hold to the apartment hotel 
and flats, in which Howells some time 
ago assured us no child born could 
possibly have a soul. In a way, 
he is right. To shirk responsibility, 
to turn the child over to bottles and 
deputy mothers of all orders, is one 
phase of our civilization at present. 
But I think you all see that it is a 
mere flotsam and jetsam on the great 
sea on which we are sailing to the 
port that waits. After all, let bach- 
elor maids learn and do what they 
will, — and it is all good and in order, — 
woman will presently study her high 
function of motherhood, and de- 
cide for herself how best to provide 
noble citizens of always nobler States. 
To this end she will, as Froebel sug- 
gested, 'live with her children,' not 
as slave, but as lover and teacher. 
So much drudgery will have been 
removed, so great a simplification 
in the order of daily living is likely 
to be the desire of really cultivated 
minds, that to cook even will not ap- 
pear a degradation, any more than to 
wash a washable shirt-waist would 
appear one, though the laundry of 
the future, also perfected and in the 
hands of trained men and women 
with consciences, will release the 
home from that burden as well." 

The speaker paused, and his deep 
eyes searched the faces there. "I 
am not jesting, friends, or coining 
phrases to fill time. These things are 



before us. In the mean time those 
of 3^ou who are so deep 'in the swim' 
that you can by no means reach shore 
will be held there till you elect a dif- 
ferent method. But there are many 
of you who see clearly that the inevi- 
table nears; that no number of train- 
ing schools will give you the ser- 
vant of a vanishing era. There will 
be service, but 'the old order chang- 
eth, giving place to new.' And in 
that new I doubt me much if this 
order of shirt-waist will exist. Nay, 
I believe even that beauty will have 
been born in the minds of all, the 
servant no less than the master. And 
then, whether we eat or drink, or 
whatsoever we do, it will be for the 
Lord of all Beauty, who watches and 
waits for the dawn of a day that only 
women can bring about, yet that can 
never be born of palliations, and make- 
shifts, and wild clutches at the rem- 
nants of a vanishing system. God 
give you — give us all — the common 
sense to carry us safely through the 
transition time, and land us in a place 
of peace, loving simple, daily human 
life." 

He had looked up at the clock, and 
turned hastily to the chairman. "An- 
other appointment," he said, and was 
gone, the shirt-waist in a wad in 
his 'hand, and a confounded audi- 
ence behind him. They discussed the 
lesson at once. They are still dis- 
cussing it. 



The Grasshopper and Fish Foods of the 

Philippines 

Crude Dishes of the Natives 



By an ex-Soldier 



THE writer served three years 
in the PhiHppine Islands, re- 
cently, with one of the United 
States regiments, and, while there, ob- 
served the singular processes of cook- 
ing odd foods for use by the natives. 
Some of these foods would appear 
to be quite disagreeable to the white 
man; but the way in which dishes 
of the grasshopper description are 
prepared and put up for service 
makes this another matter. I have 
seen grasshoppers prepared in a man- 
ner suitable to Americans. That is, 
Americans would nibble a little of 
the food, and appear to relish it. 
The higher classes of natives eat the 
grasshopper product as well as the 
lower classes, although the former 
employ trained servants to prepare 
the dishes. In the annexed cuts the 
operations of putting the grasshopper 
into a suitable form for foods are 
described. 

The hoppers are caught in nets by 
the natives, as the hoppers fly in 
vast swarms near the earth from 
one point to another. Often the 
swarms are so thick that the sky is 
darkened for hours. Millions upon 
millions of the insects pass over the 
country in this way, settling upon 
the crops now. and then, and com- 
pletely demolishing everything edi- 
ble. They eat whole farms of vege- 
table growths. The natives try to 
protect their crops by building bon- 
fires and pounding upon tin pans. 

Drying the Insects 
The first process to which the hop- 



pers are subjected, after being caught. 

m the nets of the natives, is that of 
drying out. The net is banged against 
the ground until the hoppers are well 
killed, and then they are spread in 
the sun to dry, usually on a mat. 
The object now is to get the liquids 
dried out of the bod}^, leaving a brown, 
crisp, sweet remnant. Often the na- 
tives eat the hopper in this form. But 
the better classes of the people have 
the hopper pulverized, and served in 
dessert form or on pieces of pastry. 
In the pulverizing preparation the. 
hoppers are often spread over mats 
stretched between poles, like a and 6 
in Figure i. The upper mat is the 
coarser, and allows the finer particles 
to sift through. Then the process of 




■-^v 



^-'-"""- Fi&i 




i6 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



further pounding, to get the substance 
to a powder-Hke shape, is performed in 
a stone or wooden mortar, Hke that 
shown in Figure 2. This is the regu- 
lation flour-reducing device. The stone 
is usually very aged. The device used 
to pound with is marked c. 





Fig 7 



Putting up the Granulated Sub- 
stance 

The various fine grades of pulver- 
ized product to be made from the 
baked and granulated bodies of the 
grasshopper are now sweetened with 
sugar, and packed into different- 
shaped balls or cubes. 

In Figure 3 is the common form 
of ball often seen in the markets of 
the country. Regular market days 
are selected to occur in the leading 
centres of the towns and barrios, 
usually once or twice each week; and 
at these fair-like markets one may 
find on sale these various kinds of 
hopper food put up with pastry, or 
in the state shown in Figures 3, 4, 
and 5. In Figure 4 is a cone-shaped 
lump of the stuff. It is the same 
as the ball, only different in form. 



These forms are made by pressing 
the matter together with the fingers. 
I saw no moulds in use. In Figure 5 
is the regular cube, which is sold 
quite freely. The prices for these 
balls or cubes are about one native 
cent each, which means half of one 
of our cents. The cubes and balls 
are about an ounce in weight each. 
The natives eat them as Americans 
would eat candy. The little native 
boys and girls relish these prepara- 
tions. 

Served with Pastry 
In Figure 6 is shown one of the 
modes employed by the native cooks 
for serving hopper cakes. That is, 
the American soldiers know the cakes 
as "hopper cakes." In the interior, 
where it is difficult to obtain food, 
soldiers sometimes buy these cakes 
and eat the pastry, throwing off the 
hopper product, which the natives 
secure and eat. In the specimen 
shown there is a thickness of pastry 
made of flour, and baked much as 
any pastry is baked. Then on top 
of the pastry are the assortments 
of drops of hopper food. Natives, 
who do the baking of the cakes for 
the markets and for private sale, 
often buy the hopper foods ready, 
put up in ball-form, as in Figure 3, 
and break it into pieces, and distrib- 
ute it as shown. In Figure 7 is an- 
other form of the grasshopper prod- 
uct which is put up very much like 
a pie or cake. There are three thick- 
nesses of pastry. Between each are 
the solid layers of grasshopper ma- 
terial, as indicated at d, d. These 
cakes are costly, as compared with 
the ordinary foods of the country, 
and are purchased only by the peo- 
ple who are better off than the aver- 
age native. The bakeshops in the 
islands often carry these cakes in 
stock, and Americans have to be 



Foods of the Filipinos 



17 



careful what they select. The na- 
tive shops also have a tendency to 
handle colored products from Japan 
and other countries; for they know 
that the native buyer takes to the 
highly decorated productions, regard- 
less of the injurious effect that the 
coloring materials may have upon 
the food. 







Hoppers Served in Tubes 
In. Figure 8 is one of the peculiar 
ways the natives have of shipping 
hoppers from one point to another, 
or serving them ready to eat in the 
crude state. After a swarm of hop- 
pers have passed over a town, the 
native boys may be seen, for days 
after, selling bamboo tubes of hop- 
pers, as shown in Figure 8. The 
hoppers are shown at e, projecting 
from the overflowing tube. The tube 
is cut from the bamboo of the jungle, 
and is about two feet long and about 
three inches in diameter. It sells 
for about ten cents of the native 
money, when filled, which is about 
five cents of American money. An- 
other mode which the natives have 



of selling the hoppers in the unpre- 
pared order is shown in Figure 9. 
The native boys go to the forests, 
and come into the market-places 
with numerous leaves, all arranged 
in order, — just as brown paper is 
sold for wrapping purposes. For a 
cent or two the dealer can buy forty 
or fifty of these leaves. These he 
uses as in Figure 9, which consists 
of putting a patch of the hopper 
food in the centre, as shown. The 
native buys the leaf of hopper food, 
pays his cent for it, and walks away 
with the leaf rolled in the palm of. 
his hand, to carry the same to his 
home or to eat the product on the 
spot. 

Fish Foods 
Reference should also be made 
to the odd manner of putting up 
fish food by the bakers and others of 
the country. The natives catch nu- 
merous small fish in the rivers and 
the sea by means of nets, and these 
are often worked up into pastry 
mixtures which are quite unique. In 
Figure 10 is shown one of the ways 
employed in cooking the fish. Some- 
times only a hole in the ground is 
used, in which the fire is made. 
Stoves and ranges are unknown. In 
the cut the sides of the fireplace are 
made with the popular sandstone 
of the country. These are marked 
/, /. Then an iron rod is extended 
across the top, and the cooking dish 
is suspended as shown. The fire is 
made at g with cocoanut husks or 
wood. 

A Native Fish Net 
In Figure 11 is shown one of the 
forms of nets used by the natives in 
the running streams in the hills. 
One runs across these nets at every 
turn. One native will have as many 
as twentv-five cvlindrical and cone- 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 




FlGr 1%' 




shaped nets. The net is made of 
cocoanut fibre, which is very tough. 
It is placed as at i, with the open end 



so as to permit the running stream 
to carry water and fish into ;. The 
outlet is too small for the fish to pass, 
and they are caught. In Figure 12 
is one of the washing and drying 
tanks used by the natives along the 
beaches. It is made with a series 
of rows of halves of bamboo, with 
the open side up, stretched on the 
cross piece k, and water is passed 
into these tubes. The fish are washed 
in this way, and then permitted to 
lay in the tubes, exposed to the sun, 
until thoroughly dried out. They are 
salted and packed for the markets 
after this. In Figure 13 is shown 
one of the ordinary ways of serving 
these little dried fish. 

Pastry is made very much as pas- 
try is made for the hopper cakes 
mentioned above. Then some of the 
fish are spread over a thickness of 
pastry, and quite a neat combination, 
in the estimation of the native, results. 




At the Sign of the Honeysuckle 

By Cora A. M. Dolson 

Written for the Cooking-School Magazine 



Above the door it swings, 
And here, in the leafy June, 

Come the whirr of burnished wings, 
And the seeking bee's low tune. 



The white-winged moth of night, 
And the beetle, black and bold. 

Stray here in the pale moonlight 
And their ghostly orgies hold. 



The slim bird dips her bill 

Deep down in the nectared cup; 
There are tiny throats to fill, 

Somewhere in her nest held up. 



The brown toad takes his rest 

In the shade of the honeyed bower; 

The butterfly, gayly dressed. 
Flits here in the morning hour. 



The spider a silken snare 

Strings round for the hapless feet 
That chance in its way to fare, 

At the sign of the blossoms sweet. 



Street and Roadside Improvement 



A Few Suggestions 
By Mary Lathrop Tucker 

Second Paper 



BELOW ground, trees suffer for 
want of the food and water, of 
which their roots are deprived 
by the paved side-walks, gutters, and 
streets above them. The roots, too, 
are often cut away on one or more 
sides, to make room for a curbstone or 
for laying pipes, or the tree is filled in 
above or uncovered below its normal 
ground level in changing the grade of 
street or sidewalk. Leaky gas mains 
are one of the greatest underground 
dangers. Few gas joints are per- 
fectly tight ; and a very - small leak 
will finally saturate the soil with gas, 
and eventually kill all trees within 
its sphere of influence. And the 
worst is that it is useless to plan new 
trees in the same soil, for they will 
only meet the same fate. 

But let us leave the crowded streets 
with their knotty problems, and see 
if the open country will not furnish 
more encouraging conditions. Cotm- 
try roadsides may indeed be shaded 
and beautified with much less ex- 
pense and trouble than city streets, 
by taking advantage of that wealth 
of spontaneous growth, which almost 
every roadside produces when let 
alone. But, in the general indis- 
criminate mowing of roadsides, many 
a fine sapling is cut down, which 
would otherwise make a noble tree. 
In city or village it is unwise to use 
trees of different species on the same 
street, and trees must stand in rows. 
But on country roads, except in 
front of houses, the random natural 
growth is very pleasing, and is often 
sufficient, for long distances, to save 



all expense in planting. Roadside 
shrubbery and plants also aft'ord end- 
less possibilities of beauty and variety 
almost without money or price. But, 
unforttmately, a tree that has come 
up by chance too often seems, like 
a wild animal, to be looked upon only 
as lawful prey; while "weeds and 
bushes," no matter how lovely, merit 
no consideration except as to the 
quickest way of getting rid of them. 
Some of the objections made to these 
gifts of nature are that overgrown 
roadsides look "slack" and untidy, 
and ought to be kept "clean"; that 
trees beside cultivated fields shade 
the crops and withdraw nourish- 
ment from the soil; that trees and 
tall bushes by their shade keep the 
road wet and muddy; that trees and 
shrubs cause the snow to drift in the 
road; and that tall bushes hide the 
landscape and shut out the breeze. 
These and other objections, w^hile 
more or less real, vanish quickly be- 
fore a common sense variety of treat- 
ment to meet varying conditions. 

The conserv^atism and false stand- 
ard of tidiness shown in "cleaning 
up" all roadsides can best be met by 
object-lessons, training public taste 
to appreciation of a more excellent 
w^ay. The shade of wide-spaced and 
high-pruned trees on any but the 
north side of a road can hardly make 
an appreciable difference to crops on 
either side, and the nourishment 
withdrawn is a small price to pay 
for beautiful trees. Besides, much 
fertilizing material is returned to the 
ground by fallen leaves. A chroni- 



20 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



cally damp or muddy road may be 
too much shaded; but these condi- 
tions rather indicate bad drainage 
or springy soil, and suggest the need 
of radical treatment for the road 
itself. The alleged influence of trees, 
and especially shrubbery, in causing 
snowdrifting, is almost equally seri- 
ous for the time, whether existing 
in fact or chiefly in the mind of the 
objector. But investigation seems to 
show that with few exceptions all 
bad drifting places are on barren, 
open pieces of road, where there is 
no roadside growth whatever. When 
drifting does occur habitually be- 
tween overgrown roadsides, it ap- 
pears usually to be upon roads run- 
ning north and south, while east and 
west roads, presenting apparently 
the same conditions otherwise, do 
not drift at all ; and it is far from cer- 
tain that north and south roads would 
not drift just the same or worse with 
the shrubbery cut off. Pines and 
other evergreen trees are complained 
of for the highway, because of keep- 
ing the road icy and muddy late in 
spring. But this, too, is a matter of 
location. Pines on the north side 
protect from cold winds and retain 
the heat of the south sun, while pro- 
ducing the opposite effect when placed 
on the south side. The result in 
either case is modified by high prun- 
ing. Nothing in roadside adorn- 
ment produces a finer effect than a 
row of well-spaced, high-trimmed 
pines ; and they are easily and quickly 
grown. Tall, thick bushes and low- 
trimmed trees do in some places shut 
out breeze or landscape views. But 
trees may be pruned high and bushes 
thinned or grouped, or be cut off alto- 
gether, leaving only plants or low 
shrubs for decoration. In short, make 
roadside treatment a study in land- 
scape gardening, with Nature for 
nurseryman and chief gardener. The 



endless groupings and combinations 
of Nature are varied and graceful 
beyond the possibilities of artificial 
arrangement, but can be altered or 
modified and her mistakes or ours 
repaired, almost at will on native 
shrubs and plants, owing to their 
rapid growth. Nothing, however, can 
be lovelier when consistent with local 
conditions than the untouched road- 
side tangle. And let us have only 
native growth on country roads. The 
world is all growing too nearly alike. 
Let us keep whatever distinctive at- 
tractions we have. Use beautiful 
foreign shrubs and plants for town 
and suburban decoration, but replace 
them by our native growth as suburb 
merges into country. And let farm- 
houses and other country dwellings 
revel in the old-fashioned garden 
flowers. 

These are but a few hints on matters 
calling for thoughtful study and wise 
action. But it is time to ask by what 
means wholesome conditions and 
proper protection for street and road- 
side can be secured. Improvement 
can come only through a more en- 
lightened public taste and sentiment. 
What the people want they will de- 
mand, and what they demand they 
will get. The work of educating pub- 
lic sentiment is especially adapted to 
women's clubs, always provided that 
they act only upon thorough knowl- 
edge and in tactful co-operation with 
street commissioners, tree wardens, 
and other officials. Most women have 
more daytime leisure than most men to 
observe conditions on street and road- 
side, and their organization into clubs 
gives them greater influence and bet- 
ter facilities for systematic study than 
they might have as individuals. The 
work of village improvement societies 
seems mostly confined to village limits. 
It is not uncommon to find long 
stretches of road between two beau- 



The Heart of the Hills 



21 



tiful and well-kept villages not only 
robbed of every natural charm, but 
even disfigured. If these societies 
would take hold of country roads with 
the zeal and discretion that they have 
often applied to village streets, a few 
years would see a vast increase in the 
rural attractions of New England. 
Clubs and village improvement soci- 
eties should collect a few books for 
study and reference on these subjects. 
If nothing else, they should have "Tree 
Pruning," by A. Des Cars, translated 
from the French by Prof. Charles S. 
Sargent, and "The Pruning Book," 
by Prof. L. H. Bailey, both interesting 
as well as instructive, and the best 
available works on the subject. The 
Massachusetts Forestry Association, 
1118 Tremont Building, Boston, is 
glad to answer any inquiries on mat- 
ters pertaining to the planting, care, 
or protection of street or roadside 
growth. Free expert information and 
advice upon tree or plant, insects or 
diseases, may be obtained by address- 
ing questions or sending specimens for 



identification (carefully done up) to 
the Hatch Experiment Station, Am- 
herst, Mass. 

Another and the most powerful 
agency in the long run for securing and 
maintaining right and beautiful con- 
ditions on street and roadside lies in 
the training of children and youth, 
but this subject would require an 
article by itself. City boarders and 
summer residents in the country have 
done and can do much educative work 
in calling attention to natural road- 
side adornment, through efforts to 
save strips of roadside woodland from 
the axe, by planting or preserving 
trees, shrubs, and vines, and by caus- 
ing the removal of advertisements, 
telephone poles, dumps, and other 
disfigurements from the highway or 
its vicinity. When it is found that 
trees, bushes, and weeds pay, because 
the summer people like them, and will 
not go where they are cut off, they will 
be preserved and fostered, until finally 
every one will have learned to see and 
love their beauty. 



The Heart of the Hills 



There's a wonderful country lying 
Far off from the noisy town, 

Where the wind-flower swings 

And the veery sings 
And the tumbling brooks come down 
'Tis a land of hght and of laughter, 
Where peace all the woodland fills; 

'Tis the land that Hes 

'Neath the summer skies, 
In the heart of the happy hills. 



The road to that wonderful country 
Leads out from the gates of care; 

And the tired feet 

In the dusty street 
Are longing to enter there; 
And a voice from that land is calling, 
In the rush of a thousand rills, 

"Come away, away, 

To the woods to-day. 
To the heart of the happy hills." 



Far away in that wonderful country 
Where the clouds are always blue, 

In the shadows cool, 

By the foaming pool, 
We may put on strength anew; 
We may drink from the magic foimtains 
Where the wine of life distills; 

And never a care 

Shall find us there, 
In the heart of the happy hills. 

Boston Transcript, 



22 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



THE BOSTON COOKING- 
SCHOOL CORPORATION 

Established 1879. Incorporatid 1882. 

School: 372 BOYLSTON STREET. 



goarb of PanHgtrs, 1901. 

Mrs. WM. B. SEWALL President. 

Mrs. MOORFIELD STOREY, . . Vice-President. 



girtftors* 

Mrs. ELLIOTT RUSSELL. 
Mrs. THOMAS MACK. 
Mrs. GEORGE E. NILES. 
Mrs. RICHARD GORHAM. 
Mrs. WINSLOW WARREN. 
Mrs. LANGDON SHANNON DAVIS. 
Mrs. THOMAS SHERWIN. 

Miss ELLEN M. CHANDLER. 
Miss MINNA TRAIN. 
Mrs. LINZEE TILDEN. 

Miss ELIZABETH ROGERS. 
Mrs. STEPHEN D. BENNETT, Treasurer. 
Mrs. EVERETT MORSS. Secretary. 
Principal, Miss MARIA WILLETT HOWARD. 

/Miss MARIETTA McPHERSON. 
Assistants, \ Miss HELEN HOLMES. 

(Miss LOUISE KITTREDGE. 



THE BOSTON COOKING- 
SCHOOL MAGAZINE 

or 

Culinary Science and Domestic Economics. 

Janet McKenzie Hill, Editor. 

PUBLISHED TEN TIMES A YEAR. 

Official Journal of the Boston Cook- 
ing-School Corporation. 

Publication Office : 
372 BoYLSTON Street, Boston, Mass. 

Subscription, $i .00 per Year. Single Copies, ioc. 
Advertising Rates furnished on Application. 

TO SUBSCRIBERS 

The Boston Cooking-School Magazine is sent until 
ordered discontinued, and arrearages are paid. 

The date stamped on the wrapper is the date on which 
your subscription expires: it is, also, an acknowledgment 
that a subscription, or a renewal of the same, has been 
received. 

Please renew on receipt of the colored blank enclosed 
for this purpose. 

When sending notice to renew subscription or change 
address, please give the old address as well as the new. 

In referring to an original entry, we must know the 
name as it was formerly given, together with the Post- 
oflSce, County, State, Post-office Box, or Street Number. 

Entered at Betten Poet-office ai Kcond-dau matter. 



EDITORIAL MENTION 

WITH the present number 
the Cooking-School Maga- 
zine begins a new volume 
and the eighth yeai: of publication. 
In circulation and patronage the 
magazine has steadily increased, and 
we are proud of the fact that we still 
retain on our list of subscribers the 
names of many whose subscription 
began with the first issue, in June, 
1896. 

The first volume of the magazine 
consisted of four numbers only. Cop- 
ies of this volume are often called for, 
but are not now easily obtained at a 
reasonable price. Six numbers were 
comprised in each of the four succeed- 
ing volumes, while in the last two 
years a number has been issued every 
month in the year, save two, the is- 
sues of June-July and August-Sep- 
tember, for excellent reasons, being 
made special double numbers. 

With the same editorial manage- 
ment and under uniform direction 
and conduct, the Cooking-School Maga- 
zine, from its first issue, has aimed 
to produce a periodical devoted ex- 
clusively to culinary science and 
domestic economics and secondary 
to no other publication in this field 
of effort, and we are pleased to state 
that our original purpose has in no 
wise been changed. Encouraged and 
strengthened by past experience, the 
publishers purpose to make the vol- 
ume of 1903-04 more attractive, in- 
teresting, and valuable than any of 
the preceding volumes. The con- 
tents of each number are to be adapted 
especially to meet the wants of the 
young housekeeper, the home-maker, 
and also of those who are concerned 
in the management of domestic sci- 
ence departments in schools, clubs, 
and hospitals. Would that the maga- 
zine might be regarded as an indis- 
pensable handbook in every home ! 



Editorials 



23 



A MILLIONAIRE'S OFFER 

"There was an old man of Tobago 
Who hved on rice, gruel and sago, 
When, much to his bhss, 
His physician said this, 
' To a leg, sir, of mutton you may go.' " 

MOTHER GOOSE evidently 
knew the meaning of good 
living. In her quaint rhymes 
she voiced the sentiment of her day 
in this respect, as in many another 
matter of every-day home life. The 
familiar songs and sayings of a people 
are ever indicative of that people's 
mental and moral traits; and, thus 
tested, the dependence of comfort 
and success in life upon wholesome 
living has never been wholly lost sight 
of. 

Rumor has it that, to-day, there 
is a man in Chicago who has offered, 
under certain conditions, $1,000,000 
to the housemaid who will stay in 
his family until the end of his mortal 
life. The conditions are said to be: 
the maid must be one who loves her 
vocation, who is good-natured and 
a diplomat, who is always dignified 
and never makes an error in table 
service, who is a good cook, a good 
nurse, a dressmaker, and who never 
sulks. On the other hand, the em- 
ployer will adapt, if necessary, the 
habits of his household to the whims 
of the servant ; will move if she wishes ; 
will have meats to suit her conven- 
ience; will discharge other employees, 
and allow her all the privileges of a 
member of the family, etc. 

One may say that "abject despair 
quite naturally inspired this extrava- 
gant offer," or simply regard it as a 
huge joke. But, after all, the propo- 
sition does not seem so very wild and 
preposterous, when the object in view 
has been fairly considered. Here is 
a man who has abundant means, and 



is willing to pay handsomely for what 
he needs; and what is there in life 
of greater worth than good health 
and the peace and comfort that arise 
from a well-managed home? Often 
even larger sums are expended on 
private yachts and race-horses, and 
the final issue of these investments 
are not of the most enduring value. 
To :us the incident seems merely to 
proclaim anew the paramount signifi- 
cance in life of domestic affairs, and 
to emphasize the fundamental con- 
ditions upon which the ideal home 
must be conducted. 



IN "Breakfast Chat," Mrs. Wells 
touches upon a subject that may 
seem to some of our readers a 
little out of the ordinary. For many 
years Mrs. Wells has been a member 
of the Massachusetts vState Board of 
Education, and from her wide expe- 
rience has come into contact with 
phases of education with which the 
most of us are little conversant. The 
care now taken in special schools and 
infirmaries of the unfortunate, either 
in body or mind, is one of the won- 
ders of the age. Even the dumb are 
taught to speak and the crippled to 
walk. To the thoughtful the prob- 
lem of "The Perverts" is growing 
more and more serious as civilization 
advances. In short, social and eco- 
nomic questions have become fore- 
most in the problems of life. In the 
future development and conservation 
of the race, the place good, whole- 
some, nutritious food is to hold can- 
not with impunity be overlooked. 



"Out of 150,000 children whom a 
surgeon at Leeds, England, has ex- 
amined as to their fitness for factory 
labor, 50,000 were found to be rick- 
ety in consequence of improper feed- 
ing when babies." 



An Irresistible Invitation 

By Kate Matson Post 

Written for the Cooking-School Magazine 



"O mamma! do come and have lunch with 
us, — 

With Charlie, Billy, and me, — 
Our table's the box that the soap came in, 

It's imder the apple-tree. >.< 

"We have covered the top with a napkin, 

Our dishes are made of wood. 
We have whittled them out of some shingles 

The very best that we could. 

"And we've built a big fire in the hollow, 

And, oh, it's such lots of fun! 
For we've roasted potatoes right in it, 

And now we think they are done. 



"And Bridget has lent us a frying-pan 

To fry the bacon, you know; 
And we've plenty of milk and strawberries. 

We know where the wild ones grow. 

''And we've brought the garden bench out 
for you. 

The saw-buck will do for me. 
And Billy and Charlie will have the log. 

There's plenty of room, you see. 

"So please, mamma, won't you come right 
away, 

It's shady and cool and nice?" 
I'm going, of course; for a chance like this 

Mayn't come in a lifetime twice. 




The Four-leaf Clover 

A little maid in a gingham gown 
Went hunting the meadows over: 

Till the birds were tired, and the sun went 
down. 
She sought for a four-leaf clover! 

For four-leaf clovers bring luck, they say; 

And patchwork "stint" and dishes 
Were tiresome duties of every day: 

She wanted some fairy wishes! 

With dishes unwashed and "stint" undone, 
She tramped back home in the gloaming; 

No four-leaf clover — no, never a one — 
Was there to be had for her roaming! 

A little maid in a gingham gown 
Had washed all the dinner dishes; 

Had finished her "stint" ere the sun went 
down. 
Undreaming of fairy wishes. 

When just at her feet, as she raced in play 

The blossoming meadows over. 
She found what the other had sought all 
day, — 
She found, yes, a four-leaf clover! 
Mary Clarke Huntingdon, in Association 
Record. 



An Incident 

Two old friends met on the city street. 

"Good-morning," said he, 

"Good-morning," said she; 
And they paused to talk together. 
The mysteries strange had come to both 

Since last they met. 
And now they wondered more and more 

What it all meant ; 

But, as they parted, 

He slowly said, 

'* Sometime, somewhere, somehow. 

Do not forget." 

The weeks went by in their busy lives. 
They met again in the rushing crowd : 
They had only time to grasp the hand. 

As she sweetly said, 

^'Sometime, somewhere, somehow, 

We'll not forget." 

Again and again have they met since then. 
Their words grow few over mysteries strange 

But ''sometime, somewhere, somehow," 

They never forget. 
Elizabeth Porter Gould, in Education, 



^ ^ ^ 




^-'■^. 






\^ F .> 



•-•■^^3«!i^*fef;r:44'-; 








Preparing Cucumber-and-Lettuce Salad 



Seasonable Recipes 



IN all recipes where flour is used, unless otherwise stated, the flour is measured after sifting 
once. When flour is measured by cups, the cup is filled with a spoon, and a level cupful is 
meant. A tablespoonful or a teaspoonful of any designated material is a /^fz/<r/ spoonful of such 
material. 



Cucumber-and-Lettuce Salad 
Let a cucumber chill thoroughly in 
ice water. Pare, then cut in slices, 
lattice fashion, on a handy slicer. 
Cut one slice, turn the cucumber half- 
way round and cut the next. Con- 
tinue in the same manner, turning the 
cucumber, after each slice, to cut. Let 
the slices stand in ice, or very cold, 
water about fifteen minutes. In the 
mean while cut off the root from a 
head of fresh, crisp, curly lettuce, dis- 
carding the outer leaves. Wash each 
leaf thoroughly without crushing. 
Shake in a cheese-cloth or a wire 
basket, to free from water, and wipe 
with cheese-cloth or expose to the air 



a few minutes, turned to drain off any 
drops of water. Oil will not adhere to 
a wet surface. Pile the outer leaves, 
one above another, first removing any 
imperfections, and cut with a sharp 
knife into narrow ribbons. Pour four 
tablespoonfuls of oil into a bowl, add 
a dash of paprika and one-fourth a 
teaspoonful of salt, then beat in, little 
by little, one or two tablespoonfuls of 
vinegar or lemon juice, and, when an 
emulsion is formed, pour over the 
lettuce placed in the bowl. Lift the 
lettuce with the spoon and fork, to 
mix with the dressing. Drain and dry 
the cucumber slices between folds of 
cloth, and dress in the same manner. 



a6 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



using enough oil and vinegar to coat 
the sHces. Turn upon the lettuce, and 
sprinkle the whole with fine-chopped 




Cucumber-and-Lettuce Salad 

chives. If a clove of garlic be at 
hand, cut it in halves, and with it rub 
over both sides of a small slice of stale 
bread, freed of crust. Cut the pre- 
pared bread into cubes and put them 
in the salad bowl first, that they may 



catch any dressing that falls from the 
salad. Serve a cube of bread (chapon) 
in each dish of salad. 

Egg Salad, Mayon- 
naise Dressing 
Put the requisite 
number of eggs into 
boiling water and 
remove to a cooler 
part of the range, 
where the water will 
not boil. Cover and 
let stand forty min- 
utes. Then immerse 
in cold water, and 
let stand ten min- 
utes. Take off the 
shells and set aside 
in a cool place until 
ready to use. To 
serve, with a sharp 
pen-knife cut through the white at 
the centre of the egg in this fashion 
AAA, and separate each egg into 
two parts. Dispose these on lettuce 
leaves, surrounding each piece of egg 
with mayonnaise dressing, or serve 




Mayonnaise in Preiiaration 



Seasonable Recipes 



27 



the dressing in a dish apart. In the 
illustration, whipped cream was added 
to the mayonnaise just as it was sent 
to the table. 

Mayonnaise Dressing 
Beat the yolks of two eggs with 
a silver fork. Add one-fourth a tea- 
spoonful, each, of salt and pepper, 
also the same of mustard and pow- 
dered sugar, if desired. When these 
are evenly blended with the yolks, 
beat in a teaspoonful of vinegar. 
Then add one cup of oil, at first drop 
by drop. After a few tablespoonfuls 



Bacon Dressing 

Cook two tablespoonfuls of flour 
and a dash of paprika in five table- 
spoonfuls of hot bacon fat. Add 
four or five tablespoonfuls of vinegar 
and half a cup of water. Stir and 
cook until boiling. Then, gradually, 
pour over the beaten yolk of an egg 
(preferably two yolks). Return to 
the fire (over hot water), to cook the 
egg, and add salt, if needed. Use 
when cold. This dressing is particu- 
larly good with endive or lettuce, 
alone or with eggs. 




Egg Salad, Mayonnaise Dressing 



of oil haA^e been added thus, the 
quantity, at each addition, may be 
increased. When the mixture be- 
comes thick and ropy, alternate the 
oil with a few drops of lemon juice or 
vinegar, using in all about two table- 
spoonfuls of acid. AVhen all of the 
ingredients have been used, taste 
the dressing, and add more of such 
ingredients as are needed to suit in- 
dividual taste, remembering that may- 
onnaise dressing is not an acid sauce. 
A Dover egg-beater, tumbler size, 
may be used, to shorten the time, 
when a small quantity of dressing 
is to be made. 



Grecian Pilau 

Cover a cup of rice with plenty of 
cold water and stir over a quick fire 
until boiling rapidly. Let boil three 
or four minutes, then drain and rinse 
on a sieve. Stir the rice into three 
cups of stock (made from the bones 
and trimmings of the meat to be used 
in the pilau), salted to taste. Cover 
and let simmer until the liquid is 
absorbed. Then add one-fourth a 
cup of butter, more stock, if needed, 
and let cook over water until the rice 
is tender. Mix the butter through 
the rice with a silver fork, and turn 



28 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



onto a serving-dish, to form a ring in tiny cubes. Cut two or three shoes 
or border. In the centre of the ring of tender bacon into cubes, and saute 




Grecian 



turn a ragout of chicken, veal, or 
lamb, and surround the rice with half 
a can of tomatoes, pressed through a 
sieve and cooked about fifteen minutes, 
to evaporate the water. Season 
with salt and pepper while cooking. 
Garnish the rice with slices of lemon. 



the onion and bacon, together, to a 
light golden color. Add three table- 
spoonfuls of flour, and, when well- 
cooked, gradually, a cup and a half 
of stock, and let simmer until the 
onion and bacon are tender. Then 
add a cup and a half, or two cups, of 




LeUuce Salad at the Table 



Ragout for Grecian Pilau 
Cut two shallots, or half an onion, 



cooked meat, cut in cubes and neatly 
trimmed. Season, as needed, with 
salt and pepper. 



Seasonable Recipes 



29 



Macaroni with Bacon and Cheese 
Cut two shallots and half an onion, 
or a stalk of leek, in small pieces, and 
saute with three or four slices of tender 
bacon, cut in small bits. When 
well browned, stir in two tablespoon- 
fuls of flour, and cook until frothy. 
Then add a cup and a fourth of to- 
mato puree (cooked tomatoes passed 
through a sieve), and let simmer 
until the onion and bacon are tender. 
Then stir in three-fourths a cup of 
macaroni, cooked until tender and 
rinsed in cold water. When again 
hot, add two or three tablespoonfuls 
of grated cheese. Lift the macaroni 
with a spoon and fork, to mix the 
cheese through the dish. vServe in 
a hot dish. 

Stewed Cucumbers^, Sauce Supreme 
Pare three green cucumbers of 
medium size, and cut in quarters, 
crosswise. Cut each quarter into 
halves, lengthwise, and take out the 
seeds. Cook slowly half an hour in 
a quart of boiling salted water. Drain 
in a colander and then on a cloth, 
and reheat in a cup of sauce made of 
two tablespoonfuls, each, of butter 
and flour, three-fourths a cup of 
chicken or xeal broth, one-fourth a 
cup of cream, a teaspoonful of lemon 
juice, and salt and pepper to taste. 

Boiled Potatoes, Cheese Sauce 
Sprinkle six or eight hot boiled pota- 
toes lightly with salt, and let stand on 
the top of the range, covered with 
a cloth, a few moments, while the 
water evaporates. Turn into a hot 
dish, and pour over them a cup of 
white or cream sauce, into which 
three or four tablespoonfuls of grated 
cheese has been stirred. Do not pour 
over the sauce, until the cheese has 
melted. Pare the potatoes before 
boiling. 




In Cherry Time 

String Beans with Cream 
RemoA-e the strings from the beans, 
then cut in pieces, transA^ersely, mak- 
ing diamond-shaped pieces. Cook 
until tender, adding salt when about 
half cooked. Drain, add a little 
hot cream, with black pepper and 
additional salt as needed. Three- 
fourths a cup of cream will be enough 
for a pint of beans. 

String Beans with Bacon 
Cut one or two slices of tender- 
mild-cured bacon in tiny cubes, and 
saute to a delicate brown. Add a 
pint of hot, cooked-and-drained string 
beans and a few drops of onion juice. 
Shake the frying-pan, to mix thor- 
oughly. Add salt and pepper as 
needed, and turn into a hot dish. 
Peas may be served in the same 
way. 

Consomme with Stuffed Cucumber 
For three quarts of consomme 
(enough for twelve plates or sixteen 
bouillon cups, "cojisom^ne en tasse") 
prepare three cucumbers. Pare the 
cucumbers, taking a thicker paring 
from the ends than the sides. With 
an apple corer remove the seeds, 
inserting the corer at both ends, if 
needed. Parboil two minutes, rinse 
in cold water, and drain on a cloth. 



30 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



Fill the opening in the centre with 
chicken or veal forcemeat (for force- 
meat see "Cutlets of Lamb, Luncheon 
Style," pages 455-456, May issue), 
using any sauce, in place of soubise 
as given. Let simmer half an hour 
in white broth with a dozen bits of 
salt pork, salt and pepper. When 
cooked, cut in crosswise slices half an 
inch thick. Serve three or four in each 
portion of soup. 

Sour-cream Biscuit 
Pass through a sieve two cups of 
flour, three teaspoonfuls of baking 
powder, and half a teaspoonful of salt. 
With the tips of the fingers work in 
two or three tablespoonfuls of butter. 
Beat a scant half a te&»3poonful of 
soda into a cup of thick sour cream, 
and use in mixing the dry ingredi- 



Pineapple Fritters 

Melt one-fourth a cup of butter. 
Cook in this a scant half a cup of 
cornstarch and one-fourth a teaspoon- 
ful of salt. Then stir in, gradually, 
the juice of half a lemon, one pint 
of grated pineapple, and one-third a 
cup of sugar. Let simmer five or six 
minutes, then gradually pour over 
one egg, beaten very light without 
separating. Return to the fire, to 
cook the egg, if needed, and then turn 
into a well-buttered, shallow dish, 
having the mixture half an inch in 
thickness. When cold, cut or stamp 
out into such shapes as desired. Dip 
each in batter, and fry in deep fat 
until colored a delicate brown. Drain 
on soft paper, and sprinkle with pow- 
dered sugar, or serve with a sauce. 




Pineapple Fritters 



ents into a dough of such a consist- 
ency that it will take up all particles 
from the inside of the bowl. Turn 
onto a floured board, work on the 
board with a knife, to flour the 
outside slightly, then pat and roll 
into a sheet an inch thick. Cut into 
rounds, and bake about twenty-five 
minutes. 



Batter for Pineapple Fritters 

Beat one egg without separating 
the white and yolk. Add half a cup 
of flour and one-fourth a teaspoonful 
of salt, and beat with a spoon until 
perfectly smooth. Then beat in 
one-fourth a cup of milk. Immerse 
the fritters, one at a time, in the 



Seasonable Recipes 



31 



batter, drain thoroughly, and drop to make a cup and a half, then add 
into the hot fat. Remove with a the pieces of pineapple, and let sim- 
skimmer. mer until the fruit is tender. Then 

Tapioca Pudding 

a la Fran9aise 

Scald one pint 
of milk over hot 
water. Stir in one- 
third a cup of a 
quick-cooking tap- 
ioca, mixed with a 
few grains of salt 
and one-fourth a 
cup of sugar. Stir 
and cook about ten 
minutes, then add 
very gradually to 
three eggs (or to 
two whole eggs and the whites of 
two more), beaten very light and 
thick. Add also a grating of lemon 
rind and a tablespoonful of butter. 
Turn into a turban-shaped mould, 
thoroughly buttered and dusted with 
sugar, and bake, standing in a pan 
of water, one hour. Serve cold, 
turned from the mould and sur- 
rounded with a fruit sauce. 




Tapioca Pudding a la Frangaise 

stir in a tablespoonful of arrowroot or 
cornstarch, mixed with a cup of sugar 
and a few grains of salt. Stir and 
cook five minutes after the boiling 
begins. Then add the juice and 
grated rind of a lemon, and it is ready 
to serve. Grated pineapple may 
replace the bits of fruit, or scoop 
out the pulp in balls with French 
cutter. 




Ice Cream, Moulded and Cut in Cubes 



Pineapple Sauce 

Cut as many slices of fresh pine- 
apple into small pieces as are needed 
to fill a cup. To the juice add water, 



Rhubarb Pie 

Line an agate or white-lined pie 
plate with good pastry. Have ready 
a pint of rhubarb, cut in thin slices. 



32 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



Beat an egg, and into it beat one cup 
-and a fourth of sugar, two tablespoon- 
fuls of flour, and a scant half a tea- 
spoonful of salt, mixed together, and 
stir the rhubarb into the mixture. 
Turn into the lined plate, dot with 
bits of butter, and cover with pastry. 
Brush the lower edge of paste with 
water, before putting the upper crust 
in place, then press the edges together 
firmly, and brush over again with 
water. Bake in a moderate oven until 
the pastry is well browned. 

Strawberry Cream 
Mix half a cup of sugar, a cup of 
strawberry pulp, and a pint of double 
cream. Beat with a Dover egg-beater 
until solid to the bottom of the bowl, 
or use a ' ' whip churn, ' ' and take off the 
froth as it rises. Serve, thoroughly 
•chilled, in glasses or in meringue shells. 

Strawberry Syrup for Ice-cream 
Boil three-fourths a cup of sugar 
and half a v^up of water ten minutes. 
Let cool, and add to a cup of fresh 
strawberry juice and pulp. To pre- 
pare the berries, crush part of a basket 
of berries, and press them through 
a fine sieve. 

College Jces 
Serve a plain vanilla cream-ice in 



frappe cups, with cold fruit, coffee or 
chocolate syrup poured over. 

Strawberries a la Louis Sherry 
For each quart of strawberries 
take the juice of one lemon and about 
a cup of powdered sugar. Mix thor- 
oughly. Let stand about ten min- 
utes, and serve. 

Currant-and-Raspberry Sherbet 
Boil a quart of water and a pint 
of sugar twenty minutes. Add a 
teaspoonful of gelatine, softened in 
cold water, and strain. When cold, 
add a cup and a half of currant juice 
and half a cup of red raspberry juice, 
and freeze as usual. 

Roman Punch 
Boil one quart of water and one 
pint of sugar fifteen minutes, add half 
a cup of strong tea (infusion), and, 
when cold, one cup of lemon juice. 
Freeze to a mush, using equal parts 
of ice and salt, then add half a cup 
of rum, and turn the crank a little 
longer. Serve in small glasses. For 
variety, cook a pint of grated pine- 
apple with the sugar and water (use 
less sugar, if the pineapple be canned), 
and add the tea. When cold add 
half a cup of lemon juice, and finish 
as above. 



R 


He '^^K 


s 


S 




It' 


::Ji 


a 


rH 


Ib 



Meringues in Preparation for Serving with Whipped Cream and Strawberries 




J^ftcr $rrtaMast Clx-at 



By Kate Gannett Wells 

The Feeble-minded 

SOMETHING short in the making,— 
Something lost on the way, 
As the Httle Soul was taking 
Its path to the break of Day! " 

W. C. Gannett 



MRS. KING liked her visi- 
tors in proportion to their 
ability for fads, which should 
so preoccupy them that they would 
not sit round the house, waiting to 
be entertained. She preferred to 
start them off on a day's campaign, 
educational, philanthropic, or patri- 
otic, with a proviso that they should 
lunch down town. Therefore, one 
morning, after the usual breakfast 
inquiries, of how did you sleep, etc., 
she bluntly inquired of Mrs. Stone 
her preference in fads. 

"Lately," replied her guest, "I 
have been absorbed in the feeble- 
minded." 

Mrs. King stared. "Why, aren't 
they idiots?" 

"Not at all. Of course there are 
both improvable and custodial cases; 
but you don't know what pathos 
means, until you see them trying to 
learn by imitation what normal chil- 
dren do by intuition. I'm going to the 
school to-day; but it is curious how 
there are cycles in thought and 



names. Dr. Howe used to call his 
institution a school, as he believed 
that education was a specific cure-all. 
Now the perpetual asylum idea has 
come to the front again, for the in- 
curable feeble-minded should never 
marry. ' ' 

The hostess looked pained. "State 
prevention of marriage, you mean!" 

"Don't appear so shocked, as if 
such an idea were an invasion on 
individual rights: it is just a State 
necessity. I only wish you knew 
Will and Susie at the school, and then 
you would realize how many aeons 
it would take before they could be- 
come responsible enough to marry. 
Willie has tried for months to put 
four short sticks in the form of a 
square, and he is twelve years old. 
When he did it at last, you should 
have seen the look on his teacher's 
face, as if she had beheld the vision 
of the new birth gained by patience. 
It is still hard for him to recognize 
pictures; but, as Susie and he are 
in the same sense- training class (where 



34 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



they learn how to use the five senses 
which they do not know they possess) , 
her snubs are becoming effective. 
She took him to the window, day after 
day, pointing out a horse to him; 
and yet, when she showed him a 
chromo card of one, he would sigh, 
as if he had been personally injured, 
and say, 'My mother's dead: she 
talks to me at night when the boys 
don't make no noise.' 

" 'You're a softy,' Susie told him 
the other morning, when Willie per- 
sisted that the picture of a horse 
was that of a house. So again she 
jerked him up to the window, with 
the card in her hand, and at last made 
him understand which was which, 
though Susie herself is so simple she 
cannot count her ten fingers, and she 
is thirteen. But she is useful in ever so 
many Httle ways, and knows a wee bit 
more each year, and is always happy, 
which is more than are most people." 

' ' I supposed the feeble-minded were 
generally repulsive, or else had queer 
streaks of brightness," said Mrs. 
King. 

"Then you should watch them in 
the dining-room, where their table 
manners range from long bibs and 
tin plates to napkins and crockery. 
They eat more than we normals do. 
As for the teachers' table, no other 
set of professionals has as delicious 
a menu; for the superintendent says 
'that instructing the feeble-minded 
would quickly wear out the nerve 
tissues, unless they were constantly 
repaired by food. But I myself can 
never eat when I am there; for the 
children's kindness to each other, 
especially in the custodial depart- 
ment, makes me sentimental instead 
of hungry. A paralyzed boy in his 
wheel-chair helps in amusing the 
sturdy, stupid little fellow who pushes 
him about. A fat, grinning girl 
holds tenderly the wee thin- child 



who moans from habit. There is 
Johnny, who is never happier than 
when the older boys lay him on a 
flat-topped, wooden roller and drag 
him up and down the floor of the 
ward. He can't peel potatoes, like 
some of the other fellows; but he can 
shell peas, and shouts when he sees 
the weeds growing in the yard, so 
as to tell the others to pull them up. 
He is always making jingles; and 
last week, after one of the children 
had tied her doll's hands, by way of 
punishment, he solemnly remarked, 

' Dollies are follies. 
Untie their hands, 
Loose their bands,' 

"He gets hold of words whose mean- 
ing he does not know. That same 
day he said to me: — 

* You're a tot, and it is hot. 
Food is good, and sun is fun. ' 

"Yet he sits for hours wrapt in va- 
cancy. His father wrote rhymes for 
advertisements. Some say heredity 
transmits only structural peculiari- 
ties. Who knows?" 

"I have more faith," replied Mrs. 
King, "in environment than in he- 
redity, and in good cooking than 
pedagogy. If I were a School Com- 
mittee, I'd have the backward chil- 
dren taught by themselves. People 
do say that, if it had not been for 
Miss Sullivan, Helen Keller might 
have been feeble-minded." 

"That," answered her friend, "is 
just what education and philanthropy 
are now doing. There are special 
classes in the public schools for de- 
fective children, who are weeded out 
from the regular classes. Boston has 
at last begun on such a plan; but in 
Germany, Norway, Sweden, and even 
in London, there are many such spe- 
cial classes, experts deciding upon 
who shall enter them." 



What One Woman Observes 



35 



"All that is very well," replied 
Mrs. King, slowly; "but I am think- 
ing that the schools are being made 
too responsible for the bad ways of 
the country. People used to say 
that mothers and homes could keep 
boys and girls straight; and, as they 
can't, it is now the schools which are 
held accountable. Why, the good, 
moral influences that are expected 
to ooze from a teacher's personality 
are enough to cause her nervous pros- 
tration! A teacher is regarded as 
the efficient cause of all the bad, 
good, or indifferent in a community, 
when it is in the home and in parent- 
age that the evil begins. People below 
par ought not to marry anyhow." 

"Why is it," asked Mrs. Stone, 
"that the churches do not take up 
the regeneration of the feeble-minded ? 
for there are only eighteen public and 
ten private institutions for them in 
the United States, though the last 
census of 1890 showed 95,571, which, 
however, left out many. Why, the^'e 
are two feeble-minded to every thou- 
sand persons in Massachusetts ! Fort- 
unately, many are not typical idiots, 
or it would need a very self-sacrificing 
church to care for them. Yet all 
feeble-minded persons have little will 



power, judgment or reason, memory 
or attention. They are naturally 
lazy and destructive, and do just what 
they want to do." 

"So do strong-minded persons," 
interrupted Mrs. King. 

"Well, anyway, a feeble-minded 
child is usually two inches shorter 
and nine pounds lighter than our 
children would be, if we had any. \ If 
I ever should be so unfortunate as to 
have such a child, I'd put him on good 
food and manual training, from his 
birth up, as the Bible says." 

Mrs. King sighed. "There are ter- 
rible responsibilities in being a mother 
or a teacher." 

As Mrs. Stone knew the impossi- 
bility of arguing with a self-satisfied 
person, she merely exclaimed: "Go 
with me to the school, on the Fourth 
of July, and see the games and pro- 
cessions, and you will call the place 
just what one of its inmates does, — 
'The Fun Home.' In October, go 
with me to the defective classes of 
the public school children, and then 
you will see how the State and the 
city are working together, to lessen 
feeble-mindedness, which is more pro- 
ductive of generations of misery than 
any other human defect." 



What One Woman Observes 



LOVE, like music, has its chords, 
discords, and harmonies. 
f A woman is always flattered 
when she is able to please a man of 
brains and refinement. 

The best traits in a man are oft-times 
womanly ones, but they make him all 
the more lovable. 

If the heart be satisfied, should joy 
be the less because our brains also 
take their share of pleasure? 

There is in every one's life an hour 



of temptation, a critical time which 
tries the metal of the heart. 

Women fret enough to move moun- 
tains. If all the fretting forces were 
combined, electricity and steam would 
go out of commission. 

Why grow old? The gods never 
thought of such a thing. A middle- 
aged Venus is a contradiction; and 
what fancy can depict a wrinkled 
Hebe? 

Philadelphia Inquirer. 



Menus for One Week in June. {By Request) 

Family : Man, two women, and a child. Cost, J5.00. 

** But tijis granH art Kemantis an artist of taste, 
^rotiigal of gnttus antr liebottJ of all toaste." 



"Breakfast 

Cereal for Child, 

Boston Baked Beans. Pickles. 

Graham Bread. 

Cereal Coffee. 

^nner 

Tenderloin Cutlets, 

Tomato Sauce. 

Potatoes Cooked in Milk. 

String Beans. 

Strawberries. 

Supper 

Boiled Rice, Milk or Sugar. 

Ginger Cookies. 

Tea. 



'Breakfast 

Cereal. 

Scrambled Eggs. Hashed Potatoes. 

Dry Toast. Cereal Coffee. 

"Dinner 

Macaroni with Bacon and Tomatoes. 

Stewed Lima Beans (Dried) Buttered. 

Chocolate Junket. 

Tea. 

Supper 

Toast. 

Stewed Prunes. 

Cottage or Neufchatel Cheese. 

Tea. 



"Breakfast 

Cereal, Milk. 

Baked Beans Reheated with Tomato Puree. 

Toasted Bread. 

Cereal Coffee. 

"Dinner 

Boiled Fresh Haddock, Egg Sauce. 

Potatoes. Cucumbers. 

Escalloped Rhubarb, Hard Sauce. 

Cereal Coffee. 

Supper 

Boston Baked Bean Salad, 

French Dressing with Chives or Onion Juice. 

Boiled Rice and Milk for Child. 

Bread and Butter. Ginger Cookies. 

Tea. 



"Breakfast 

Cereal. 

Small Cubes of Liver Stewed, Brown Sauce. 

Plain Boiled Potatoes. 

Bread and Butter. 

Coffee. 

"Dinner 

Breast of Veal Stuffed and Roasted. 

New String Beans. Potatoes. 

Rhubarb Baked with Raisins. 

Tea. 

Supper 

Milk Toast. 

Cheese. Stewed Prunes. 

Cereal Coffee. 



"Breakfast 


"Breakfast 




Cereal. 


Cereal. 




(Haddock) Fish Cakes. 


Puffy Omelet, Tomato Sauce. 




Pickles or Baked Rhubarb. 


Graham Muffins. 




Rye-meal Muffins. Coffee. 


Coffee. 




"Dinner 


'Dinner 




Chopped Round of Beef, Natural Gravy. 


Fresh Fish Chowder. 




Plain Boiled Potatoes. 


Crackers. 


Beet Greens. 


New Beets, Pickled. 





Lemon Pie (two crusts, one egg). 


Prune-and-Rhubarb Pie. 


> 


Tea. 


Cheese. 


Supper 


Cereal Coffee. 




savory Rice (cooked with Tomatoes, Onions, etc.). 


Supper 




Crackers and Milk or Cream Toast for 


Broiled Bacon-and-Bread Sandwiches. 




Child. 


Watercress. 




Berries. Tea. 


Tea. 





"Breakfast "Dinner 

Cereal. Cold Roast Veal. 

Salt Codfish Balls. Radishes. Boiled Potatoes, Cheese Sauce. 
Bread and Butter. Pickled Beets. 

Coffee. Boiled Rice, Chocolate Syrup. 

Tea. 



Supper 
Lettuce-and-Egg Salad. 

Bread and Butter. 
Plain Cake. Tea. 



Menus for One Week in July 

(Sooti Itijtng is at once tije lururg bjfjtcfj costs tlje least; anti perf)ap of all pleasures it is tfje 

most innocent. — BeauvilUers. 



'breakfast 

Ralston Barley Food. 

Corned Beef Hash with Green Pepper. 

Radishes. 

Yeast Rolls (Swedish Fashion). 

Coffee. 

Dinner 

Boiled Salmon, Egg Sauce. 

Cucumbers with Chives, French Dressing. 

Plain Boiled Potatoes. 

Peas with Cream. 

Cherry Ice. 

Coffee. 

Supper 
Asparagus on Toast, Drawn Butter Sauce. 
Buttercups. Cocoa. 



"Breakfast 

Old Grist-mill Toasted Wheat. 
Creamed Salt Codfish. 
Boiled Potatoes. 
" Snowflakes," Coffee. 

^nner 

Broiled Beef Tenderloin, Mattre d'Hotel Butter. 

Hashed Brown Potatoes. 

Beets stuffed wkh Chopped Cucumber, 

French Dressing with Onion Juice. 

Rhubarb Pie. Cereal Coffee. 

Supper 

Egg Salad, Mayonnaise Dressing. 

Hot Sour -cream Biscuit. 

Blueberries. Cookies. 

Tea. 



^Breakfast 

Hot Shredded Wheat Biscuit. 

Raspberries, Cream. 

Eggs and Deviled Ham, Scrambled. 

White Hashed Potatoes. 

Cereal Coffee. 

dinner 

Veal Stuffed and Roasted, Brown Sauce. 

New Potatoes. New Beets, Buttered. 

Bread Pudding, Raspberry Hard Sauce. 

Tea. 

Supper 

Lettuce-and-Salmon Salad. 

Bread and Butter. 

Orange and Rhubarb Marmalade. 

Wafers. Cereal Coffee. 



breakfast 

Gluten Grits, Blueberries. 

Broiled Fresh Mackerel. 

Radishes. Creamed Potatoes. 

Dry Toast. Coffee. 

Roast Leg of Lamb, Mint Sauce. 

Spiced Black Currants. 

Spinach a la Creme with Eggs. 

Potatoes Baked with the Lamb. 

Tapioca Pudding, Pineapple Sauce. 

Tea. 

Supper 

Ham Timbales (Deviled Ham). 

Peas in White Sauce. 

Bread and Butter. Cereal Coffee. Berries 



breakfast 

Pettijohn's Breakfast Food. 

Broiled Calf's Liver and Bacon. 

Potatoes Cooked in Milk. 

Baking-powder Biscuit. 

Coffee. 

^nner 

Grecian Pilau (Veal). 

Lettuce. Imperial Cheese. Crackers. 

Cherry Pie. 

Coffee. 

Supper 

Hot Shredded Wheat Biscuit and Tomato 

Sandwich. 

Sugared Pineapple. 

Cookies. Tea. 



"Breakfast 

Grape-nuts. Berries. 

Eggs in the Shell. Watercress. 

Yeast Muffins. 

Coffee. 

Dinner 

Bluefish, Stuffed and Baked. 

Hollandaise Sauce. 

Mashed Potatoes. Peas. 

Lettuce Salad. 

Currant-and-Raspberry Sherbet. 

Coffee. 

Supper 

Beauregard Eggs. 

Spinach, French Dressing. 

Sponge Cake. Tea. 



"Breakfast 

BoUed Rice, Milk. 

Frizzled Dried Beef. 

White Hashed-Potatoes. 

Wheat Muffins. 

Cereal Coffee. 



"THnner 

Lamb Croquettes or Souffle, 

Potatoes Maitre d'Hotel. 

Peas. 

Watercress Salad. 

Red Raspberry Shortcake. 

Tea. 



Supper 

Cold Danish Liver Pudding, 

Bread and Butter. 

Pickled Beets. 

Cake. Berries. 

Tea. 



Wedding Breakfast 

(jo Guests — Small Tables) 

Strawberries a la Louis Sherry. Bouillon. 

Lobster or Salmon Cutlets. Cucumbers. 



Sweetbread and Mushroom Patties. 



Breasts of Spring Chicken, Roasted, Currant Jelly. 
Watercress Salad. 



Marshmallow Ice-cream. Sultana Roll, Claret Sauce. 

The Bride's Loaf. Fancy Cakes. Bonbons. Coffee. 



Wedding Breakfast 

(/d Guests at one or tnjoo Tables') 

Shredded Pineapple, Sugared Lightly. 

Cream of Asparagus. Bread Sticks. 

Fried Fillets of Fish. Cucumbers. 

Hot Biscuit. 



Chicken Timbales (raw breast of chicken), Mushroom Sauce. Peas. 

Mayonnaise of Lettuce and Tomatoes. Cheese Sandwiches. 



Strawberry Sherbet, Whipped Cream. 
Bride's Cake. Assorted Cakes. Coffee. 



Wedding Receptions 

[Following Wedding after 12 JH.) 

(Large Table in Dining-room) 
Chicken Croquettes. Peas. 



Salmon Salad. Lobster Salad. 

Buttered Rolls. Nut Sandwiches. Olives. 

Orange Sherbet and Strawberry Ice-cream Moulded in Layers. 
Bride's Loaf. Little Cakes. Bonbons. Salted Nuts. 

Fruit Punch. Coffee. 
(Wedding Cake in Ribbon-tied Boxes on Small Table in Hall.) 



Menu II , 

Chicken-Salad Sandwiches. Coffee. 

Little Cakes. Bonbons. Bride's Loaf. Fruit Punch. 



Menu III. , 
Little Cakes. Bonbons. Bride's Loaf. 

Strawberry Sherbet. Vanilla Ice-cream. Fruit Punch. 



Referring to Illustrations and Menus 



Sallets and Salads 

THE word "sallet" or "sal- 
lets," in general acceptance in 
the sixteenth century, but 
marked obsolete in the standard dic- 
tionaries of to-day, has had a renais- 
'sance. So also has the art that deals 
with sallets and pot herbs. 

The cultivation of most arts is 
marked by periods of growth and 
decline, which depend upon circum- 
stances outside the art itself. The 
chief of these are times of prosperity 
and the consequent leisure attendant 
upon such a condition. 

In primitive as in highly civilized 
conditions of life, sallets and pot herbs 
are eaten, not especially for sake of 
nutrition, but as a corrective to a 
concentrated and nutritious diet or 
to prevent scurvy. As people grow in 
wealth and culture, a corresponding 
increase in all the minute details 
that minister to their aesthetic tastes 
takes place. This is seen in the use 
of fine linen, china, and glass on the 
table. Floral decorations are sought 
for; the dessert appears, to minister 
to the eye no less than to the palate; 
and the dressing of sallets and pot 
herbs is cultivated, to secure gastro- 
nomic harmony and appropriate- 
ness. 

The first salads were sallets (or 
uncooked green herbs) dressed with 
salt (Latin sal, sails) . Then herbs 
and succulent esculents, whose tougher 
structure rendered the softening in- 
fluence of heat needful, were cooked 
and seasoned, to add relish to the 
more necessary articles of food; or 
the cooked food itself was seasoned, 
and, with the addition of green un- 
cooked vegetables, a compound salad 
was evolved. 



We have no means of knowing his- 
torically when the salt, which at first 
was the sole seasoning agent of the 
salad, was re-enforced by oil and vin- 
egar. But oil, at least, was used in 
very early times; and the use of 
vinegar, made of wine, probably 
followed soon after, even if it did 
not antedate the use of oil. A mo- 
dicum of acid is necessary in all 
salads, but oil is to be added with a 
more generous hand. The leaves of 
the perfectly dressed salad glisten 
with oil; but the bowl, after the serv- 
ing of the salad, discloses naught of 
the contents, save a few stray drops 
of dressing. 

Salt, oil, and vinegar are the com- 
ponents of a salad dressing. Pepper, 
either black or the mild paprika, is 
approved by the majority of epicures, 
and is used for most salads, simple or 
compound, save those in which pep- 
per in some form appears, as when 
pepper-grass, garden peppers, or the 
sweet, canned pimento, enter into the 
body of the salad. 

Mustard is demanded in a mayon- 
naise dressing by an occasional mixer 
of salads. In the illustration, on page 
26, showing "Mayonnaise in Prepa- 
ration," the mustard-box is covered, 
while the receptacles holding the 
other condiments are uncovered, thus 
suggesting to the novice something 
of the position mustard holds in the 
mind of a careful compounder of salads. 
In mayonnaise, sugar is a slight cor- 
rective for too strong vinegar; but, 
in our estimation, the use of lemon 
juice or less vinegar is more to be 
commended. A slight flavor of onion 
— or,- as the French say, a soupgon, 
or suspicion, of onion — is desirable in 
most salads, and particularly in po- 
tato, cucumber, and bean salads. 



40 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



Sydney vSniith, in his oft-qiioted 
"recipe for salad," speaks of "vine- 
gar procured from town," possibly 
for the sake of the rhyme. But it 
were better, we think, for the rhyme 
to suffer than to subject choice, care- 
fully grown sallets to doubtful in- 
gredients. All cannot have friends 
in the country with large apple or- 
chards and well-kept cellars, safe 
guarantees of sound fruit and clean- 
liness in the manufacture of vinegar, 
such as, with a pure, high-grade olive 
oil in right proportion, insures a de- 
lectable dish. 

Green salad plants need be thor- 
oughly dry, yet fresh and crisp, when 
ready to dress and serve. As the 
dressing has a tendency to wilt these, 
they are often dressed at the table. 
In dressing salads at the table, let 
the bowl be of generous size, thus 
affording ample space in which to 
toss and turn the herbs, in order to 
distribute the condiments evenly over 
them. No set order of mixing is to 
be approved above another: the re- 
sult only is mark or sign of approval 
or disapproval of any method. Some 
are most successful, when a partial 
emulsion is produced by adding the 
vinegar, little by little, to the oil, 
through which the salt and pepper 
have been previously stirred. The 
dressing is then poured over the salad 
in the bowl, and the w^hole is tossed 
and mixed together with fork and 
spoon. Others secure better results 
w^hen the oil, mixed with the salt and 
pepper, is mixed with the herbs. 
Then the vinegar is sprinkled over, 
and the whole is mixed again. 

When a more pronounced flavor 
of acid is desired, the vinegar, mixed 
with the salt and pepper, is added 
first, and the oil last. As oil and vin- 
egar do not readily commingle, the 
oil will not adhere to the surface that 
is already moistened with vinegar. 



Dandelion and cabbage, on account 
of their tough, firm texture, absorb 
dressing less easily than most varieties 
of lettuce and cress in common use; 
and, after being dressed, they may 
stand to advantage some time be- 
fore serving. 

Cooked materials, having more body 
than the green esculents used for 
salads, are frequently allowed to 
stand an hour or more before serving, . 
after being dressed with oil and vine- 
gar. If mayonnaise is to be mixed 
with these materials, they need to be 
thoroughly drained before its addi- 
tion, to avoid the liquefying of the 
mayonnaise. Frequently the may- 
onnaise is not mixed wdth this salad, 
but is served in a dish apart. Sev- 
eral dishes for this purpose are shown 
on the left, in the illustration of 
"Mayonnaise in Preparation." 

Menu for One Week, Family of 
Four, Cost I5.00 

At Boston prices the materials to 
prepare the menu as given would cost 
about $5.82. These prices, on the 
average, are high; and in most sec- 
tions of the country the menu could 
probably be prepared for the sum 
specified. To leave a margin for emer- 
gencies, cut off from the quantity of 
green vegetables and fruit. The items 
are as follows: butter, 75c.; milk, 
42c.; dried beans, 13c.; canned to- 
matoes, 20c.; berries, 25c.; potatoes, 
20c.; rice, I2C. ; eggs, 30c.; fresh fish, 
50c.; rhubarb, 12c.; lemon, 2c.; mac- 
aroni, 3c. ; bacon, 8c. ; chocolate, 3c. ; 
prunes, i6c. ; beets and beet greens, 
24c.; cheese, i8c. ; veal, 50c.; flour 
and cereals, 12c.; coffee, etc., 20c.; 
3^east, 4c.; salt fish, 5c.; beef (2 lbs. 
round), 40c. ; crackers, 8c. ; water- 
cress, radishes, and lettuce, 15c. ; liver, 
IOC ; string beans, 15c.; sugar, etc., 
30c.; total, $5.82. 

For the tenderloin cutlets and the 



Referring to Illustrations and Menus 



41 



chopped round of beef buy for each 
dish a pound of beef from the top of 
the round, which is practically with- 
out waste. Pass the meat through 
a food-chopper (an indispensable ar- 
ticle in every family), season with 
salt and pepper and a little mace and 
onion juice, as agreeable. In one 
case, form the mixture into cutlet 
vshapes, egg-and-bread crumb, and 
fry in deep fat. In the other case, 
cook the meat in a hot frying-pan, 
rubbed over with a bit of fat from 
the edge of the meat. Cook quickly, 
stirring meanwhile. When the color 
is changed throughout the mass from 
red to brown, pour in about three- 
fourths a cup of boiling water. Let 
boil up once, season, add a piece of 
butter, and pour into a hot dish. 

To reheat the baked beans, let about 
three-fourths a cup of tomato puree — 
the exact quantity depending on the 
condition of the beans — come to the 
boiling-point in an agate or white- 
lined dish. Turn in a scant pint and 
a half of beans and set into the oven, 
or, covered, on top of the range, to 
become very hot. In pressing the 
canned tomatoes through the sieve, 
use a wooden pestle, and leave noth- 
ing but the seeds in the sieve. 

For the escalloped rhubarb use 
alternate layers of bread crumbs 
(centre of loaf), stirred into melted 
butter, and rhubarb, cut in tiny bits 
and sprinkled with sugar, a few grains 
of salt, bits of candied orange or lemon 
peel, or a few raisins. Have the last 
layer of crumbs, and bake until the 
rhubarb is tender and the crumbs are 
browned. 

The remnants of the boiled haddock 
may be served in a creamed dish, or, 
if milk be scarce, pour boiling water 
over the cold boiled potatoes left from 
the previous dinner, and bring quickly 
to the boiling-point. I>t boil five 
minutes, then drain, and pass through 



a potato ricer into the hot dish. Add 
salt and pepper, a small piece of but- 
ter, and the haddock, separated with 
a fork into small bits. Beat thor- 
oughly, and shape into flat cakes. 
Dip the flat sides into sifted flour and 
saute to a golden brown, first on one 
side and then on the other, in hot fat 
tried out of salt pork. 

Cut a pound of liver into half-inch 
cubes, cover with boiling water, and 
let stand four or five minutes; drain, 
add a teaspoonful of salt, a dash of 
pepper, a slice of onion, and about a 
quart of boiling water. Let simmer 
until the liver is tender. When nearly 
cooked, cream one-fourth a cup of 
butter, and stir into this the same 
quantity of flour. Gradually dilute 
with the hot liquid, until it is of a con- 
sistency to pour, then stir into the 
rest of the hot liquid, and let simmer 
ten minutes longer. The cubes may 
first be dusted with flour and browned 
with the onion in hot salt pork or 
bacon fat, then finished as before, thus 
giving a darker sauce than in the first 
case. 

Prunes and rhubarb in combination 
make a good pie, and are suggested 
in case material for either, alone, be 
not available. 

Tender broiled bacon, either hot 
or cold, makes a particularly good 
sandwich. 

Home-made marmalade, or jelly, 
with bread or crackers will be found 
wholesome for the child, after milk or 
some form of proteid food has been 
eaten. 

Meringues for Strawberries and 
Cream. Page 32 

When the meringues are baked, — 
a recipe will be found on page 469 
of the May, 1903, issue, — put two 
shells together to simulate a half- 
opened clam shell. Keep these in 
position by placing a second meringue 



42 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



against each, then pipe a Uttle orna- 
mental frosting into the space that, 
in a clam shell, is occupied by the 
hinge. The frosting quickly .dries, 
holding the shells firmly in position. 
In the illustration a cone made by 
rolling a strip of thin tough paper 
into the shape of a horn was used in 
the place of the cloth pastry bag and 
metal tube. The point of the cone 
is cut off to secure the size of open- 
ing desired. 

The Bride's Loaf and Wedding 
Cake 

The bride's loaf and the wedding 
cake are two distinct cakes. Wed- 
ding cake is a dark fruit cake, usually 
piped with ornamental frosting. The 
piping outlines the cake for cutting 
into slices. The slices are of size to 
be easily fitted into small white boxes. 
The boxes are covered with very 
handsome paper, and often embossed 
with the united monogram of bride 



and groom. When the cake is in 
place, each box is tied with white 
ribbon, and disposed upon the hall 
table. Upon departing, each guest 
supplies himself with one of these 
souvenirs. Occasionally a maid is 
stationed in the hall to hand the boxes 
to the guests as they pass out. 

The bride's loaf may be any nice 
white cake, handsomely decorated 
with white frosting in simple design. 
The cake should always be cut by the 
bride, who takes the first slice and 
offers the next to the bridegroom. 
This "eating together" of what is 
offered by the bride is a relic of mar- 
riage custom which has been traced 
back to the old Roman form of mar- 
riage by confarreatio, or eating to- 
gether. 

For the marshmallow ice-cream, 
stir lightly into a quart of ice-cream, 
flavored with vanilla, after the dasher 
has been removed, half a pound of 
marshmallows cut into quarters. 




/^J^ 



B 



ROUGHT down to the last 
analysis, health is the greatest 
boon, the chief thing, in life. 
On it depend morals, disposition, 
love, posterity, efficiency in life's 
work, enjoyment of -all things enjoy- 
able, happiness for self and for all 
others in contact with one's self. Is 
not the greatest blessing worth think- 
ing about as much as the latest in- 



vestment or the next consignment 
of goods? Does it not deserve as 
much attention as the gown for the 
next ball? Yet reckless, heedless 
men and women everywhere do not 
give it even this much attention. 
There is no kind of achievement 
equal to perfect health. What to it 
are nuggets or millions?" — Dr. 0. S. 
Marden. 



Some Cooling Beverages 

By Eleanor M. Lucas 



Lemon Fizz 
This is one of the most delicious 
of drinks. Grate the 3TII0W rind from 
three lemons, *and squeeze out the juice 
of six. Pour over this two quarts of 
boiling water, stir in half a pound of 
granulated sugar, and cover closely. 
When lukewarm, add half a small 
cake of compressed yeast that has 
been dissolved in one cup of luke- 
warm water. Cover and let stand 
over night. The following morn- 
ing, bottle, and tie down the cork. 
Put in a cool place. It is ready for 
use in a day. When poured into 
glasses, it effervesces and has a spark- 
ling effect. 

Silver Top 
Take the juice of six lemons and 
the grated rind of three. Boil two 
pounds of sugar in three quarts of 
water half an hour. Beat the whites 
of two eggs to a stiif froth, add to 
the syrup while boiling, and let cool. 
Add the lemon. Let stand over 
night, and strain. Fill glasses half 
full of shaved ice, and add the syrup 
and a few ripe strawberries or cher- 
ries. 

Fruit Punch 
Boil one pound of sugar, one pint 
of water, and the thin yellow rind 
of a lemon ten minutes. Strain, 
and while hot add a pound of stoned 
cherries, a pint of currant juice, and 
a grated pineapple. Add two quarts 
of water, the strained syrup, and the 
juice of six lemons and four oranges. 
Let stand a few hours before serving. 
Half fill the glasses with ice, broken 
to size of hail-stones, and fill with the 
punch. 



White Lemonade 
Grate the peel from two lemons, 
always being careful to use the yellow 
rind only, not any of the white pith. 
Add two cups of sugar and the juice 
of three lemons. Let stand several 
hours. Add one-fourth a pint of 
sherry wine and three pints of fresh, 
boiling milk. Strain through cheese- 
cloth, chill, and serve with cracked ice. 

Lime Squash 
Put a tablespoon of simple syrup 
(one pound of sugar boiled ten min- 
utes with one pint of water) in a 
glass. Squeeze in the juice of two 
limes, and add a tiny pinch of baking 
soda and two tablespoonfuls of shaved 
ice. Fill with water, . stir, and 
drink while effervescing. This can 
be varied infinitely. Crushed straw- 
berries or cherries may be added, or 
a few sprigs of fresh borage, which 
has the flavor of celery. 

Iceland Shiver 
Mix the juice of four lemons and 
two oranges with six tablespoonfuls 
of simple syrup. Fill a glass with 
shaved ice. Add four tablespoonfuls 
of the mixed juices and syrup, and 
sip with a spoon. 

Russian Cup 
Make a syrup of two pounds of 
sugar and three quarts of water. 
While hot, add two large cucumbers, 
sliced. Let stand two hours, and 
strain. Add a pint of strong tea 
and the juice of six lemons. vServe 
with cracked ice. 

Parfait Amour (Perfect Love) 
Wash some large white grapes, 



44 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



peel, and remove seeds. Half fill 
glasses with the grapes, then fill 
with crushed ice. With a spoon 
press the ice onto the grapes to bruise 
them and cause the juice to flow. 
Add a tablespoonful of lemon juice, 
the same amount of orange juice, 
and a tablespoonful of simple syrup. 
Let stand half an hour. Give a few 
stirs with a spoon, add a few straw- 
berries, and fill the glass with water. 
Serve with a straw. 

Claret Cup 
Into a bowl put a quart of claret, 
a pint of strawberries, sliced, two 
sliced bananas, and a sliced cucum- 
ber. Let stand one hour. Boil one 
quart of water with two pounds of 
sugar, the grated rind of two oranges 
and two lemons. Let boil ten min- 
utes, and then cool. At serving 
time, mix and add cracked ice. 

Peach Cup 
Weigh ten pounds of peaches. 
Peel, cut in slices, and put in layers 
with sugar. Use one pound of sugar. 
Let stand two hours. Add two quarts 
of water, and strain through cheese- 



cloth, pressing out all the juice. Add 
a pint of strawberries, in slices, or 
raspberries, and a few sprays of 
bruised mint. Pour this on to a 
pint of cracked ice. 

Cherry Cup 
Stone and bruise one pound of 
ripe cherries. Add the juice of six 
lemons and four oranges and one 
pint of granulated sugar. Cover and 
let stand two hours. Add one quart 
of water. Press through cheese- 
cloth. Add a quart of claret and 
a quart of shaved ice. Drop a few 
perfect cherries into the punch-bowl, 
add a few sprigs of fresh borage or 
mint, and pour in the other ingredients. 

Currant Julep 
Wash a pint of currants, add a 
pint of water, and strain through 
cheese-cloth. Let chill. Line tall 
glasses with fresh mint, put a table- 
spoonful of crushed ice in the bot- 
tom of each, and add a tablespoonful 
of simple syrup. Fill glasses with 
the currant water, and drop into 
each glass a few perfect raspberries. 
Serve with straws. 




Huckleberries and Blueberries 



By Julia Davis Chandkr 



ALL over our great country, 
from the hills and swamps of 
_New England to the moun- 
tains of the Pacific States, from the 
arctic swamps to the pine-fringed Gulf 
of Mexico, varying forms of huckle- 
berries and blueberries are found. In 
the far north they are red, in the 
south they are often black and bitter, 
though usually everywhere they are 
blue to blue-black. 

Botanists carefully classify the Vac- 
cinium family; but local names 
vary, and discussions arise as to what 
the difference is between huckle- 
berries and blueberries, blueberries 
and whortleberries, which are re- 
ferred to the teacher or newspaper 
for settlement. In such a discussion 
Mr. Dooley recently was sadly worsted, 
not believing his wife, that whortle- 
berries were the same as blueberries. 
Suffice it to say that the blueberry 
has a blue skin with a bloom on it like 
that of the grape, with no trouble- 
some seeds, and a very spicy fragance 
in cooking. The fine swamp berries 
grow on bushes higher than one's 
head ; and these are often loaded with 
fruit until the branches seem more 
blue than green, and a basket can be 
quickly filled with the fruit. The 
kinds that grow low on sandy up- 
lands and barrens are often raked 
with a tool made for the purpose. 
The huckleberry has a blue to black 
skin and woody seeds, and, even when 
the stiff, little, shrubby bushes are well 
fruited, it requires time to gather 
many, scrambhng about among the 
rocks, the barberry bushes, alders, 
birches, grape-vines, mullein, and 
hardback, with which wild and pict- 
uresque old pastures are filled. 



If one wishes full and exact botani- 
cal knowledge of this delicate berry, 
let him consult Bailey's "Cyclopedia 
of American Horticulture," for it is 
fully described and illustrated there, 
including the red arctic and sub-arctic 
varieties so prized along the St. Law- 
rence for tarts and jellies, and called 
the "high-bush cranberry"; the mar- 
ket favorite of a large part of the 
United States (the Vaccinium penn- 
syhanicnm), which has spikes of fruit; 
the true swamp blueberry {Vaccinium 
corymbosum), which is a treasure 
much sought after in many localities; 
and the strange albino, or white, va- 
riety, which grows close beside its 
dark relations. The writer remem- 
bers, in her native New England town, 
a farmer's wife, who each year exhib- 
ited at local fairs a jar of white huckle- 
berries in her collection of prize-win- 
ning preserves. 

The blueberry barrens of Maine 
yield enormous quantities of berries, 
which are shipped fresh to the cities 
or sent to near-by canneries. Large 
tracts are often burnt over to keep 
down shrubs and thickets, and thus 
insure a larger growth of berry bushes. 

In Michigan and other Western 
States, in Pennsylvania, New Jersey, 
and West Virginia, many carloads 
are gathered; but nowhere is the in- 
dustry so organized as in Maine. 

Nature being so generous, we have 
been slow to cultivate the blueberry; 
while the blackberry long ago was 
changed and hybridized. However, 
in New England experiments have 
proved that the swamp blueberry 
bush, transplanted in the fall and 
treated like a currant bush, will thrive 
in most gardens ; and not only will its 



46 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



fruit be valued by the fastidious, who 
like it gathered by cleanly hands and 
free from the dust of summer roads, 
but also in autumn, when its leaves 
rival the flaming sumac in brilliancy, 
the plant will prove itself an at- 
tractive addition to many a little 
copse or brookside, on a small or large 
estate. 

The child who has never sat on a 
New England doorstep and eaten a 
bowl of crackers and milk, with sweet 
blueberries bobbing to the surface 
with every dip of the spoon, has missed 
a treat. And every one likes blue- 
berry breakfast cake or mufiins; and 
the berries are also put into baking- 
powder tea biscuit and griddle-cakes. 

Old-time housekeepers dried these 
berries for puddings and pies in winter ; 
but, nowadays, we use the canned 
berries. For pies they may be mixed 
with blackberries, currants, rhubarb, 
chopped sour apples, green grapes, or 
a little lemon juice, lest they be over- 
sweet. Some cooks prefer to scald 
only the juice of currants, blackberries, 
or rhubarb; thickening a little with 
cornstarch, sweetening and adding to 
the pies, when baked, by lifting the 
crust. This is to prevent it from run- 
ning out to burn in the oven, and 
leave the pies dry. Cinnamon is the 
proper spice, as the berries when cook- 
ing have a similar fragrance; but 
some use nutmeg and a pinch of 
salt. 

The Germans use wine, either port 
or claret, with a little lemon, for 
stewed blueberries, to be served with 
French toast, pancakes, and the like. 
With wine, cinnamon, and sugar, they 
make jam. Currants and blueberries 
mixed make a nice jelly much like 
grape jelly. A little wine would en- 
hance berries, such as we often find 
in markets far distant from their na- 
tive fields. But, w^hen one can secure 
berries fresh from the swamp or past- 



ure, they need no such heightening 
agent. 

As one has well said: "Those old 
New England pastures and hillsides, 
what amazing secrets are locked up in 
their rugged bosoms! more wonder- 
ful by far than all the dreams of al- 
chemy. Who, to look at them, would 
ever predict the marvellous things 
which they produce for us, season after 
season?" 

"And, of all the fine things with 
which they annually present us, none 
are better than the blueberry, — a sim- 
ple, unaffected fruit, both in growth 
and appearance, yet remarkably satis- 
fying to the human taste. Gathered by 
a straggling but tireless army of sun- 
bonneted and straw-hatted pickers, 
this crystallized nectar of the hills is 
sent abroad through the land, into 
homes of rich and poor, — a welcome 
guest everywhere." 

"Who that was unacquainted with 
such mysteries could ever have 
predicted such a delectable dish as 
blueberry pie? Not the pie of com- 
merce, of course; not the restaurant 
pie, nor yet the hotel pie; but the pie 
your mother used to make, or which 
your wife or your sister can make now, 
if they have not been cheated of their 
New England heritage of knowing 
how to cook. A dainty, brown, flaky 
crust has the genuine blueberry pie; 
it is made in a dish not too deep, — 
"just deep enough," — which holds, 
under this hope-quickening crust, a 
lake of purple, mouth-watering, soul- 
ensnaring fruit; a half liquid quag- 
mire, in which the plump blue spheres 
have drowned themselves in their own 
richness. There is but one time to 
eat blueberry pie, and that is when it 
has been out of the oven just half an 
hour. At exactly this moment a 
whole one is just enough for a well 
man." 

The following recipe is from a sea- 



The Happy Sunday 



47 



shore hotel of New Jersey, where deli- 
cious berries are abundant. This fine 
blueberry pudding is always hailed 
with delight by the guests, who would 
almost give up a sailing party rather 
than be belated, and so miss it and 
the currant wine sauce that accom- 
panies it. 

Blueberry or Huckleberry Pud- 
ding 
One quart of berries, one pint of 
molasses with one teaspoonful of sal- 
eratus, one tablespoonful of ground 
cinnamon, one teaspoonful of ground 
cloves or allspice, nutmeg and mace 
to taste, flour enough to make a bat- 
ter to stir. Boil for three hours or 
steam. 



Sauce 
One-fourth a cup of butter and one 
cup of pulverized sugar, creamed to- 
gether, the whites of two eggs, beaten 
light and added. Over this turn a 
tumbler of currant wine. 

A similar recipe may be found in 
"Mrs. Putnam's Receipt Book," of 
nearly a half -century ago. vShe uses 
the same quantity of berries, molasses, 
and soda, and three cups of floor, but 
for spices one teaspoonful, each, of 
cinnamon, clove, allspice, and ginger, 
and baked it for two hours. 

The above sauce does not blend. 
But with each helping some of the 
wine and hard sauce must be taken, 
and the dish kept well stirred. 



The Happy Sunday 

By Sallie Joy White 



AN EW joy of living should come 
to every normal soul with the 
dawning of the first day of the 
week, that day which marks the mir- 
acle of a world's completion, when 
God looked at his handiwork and pro- 
nounced it good. 

It is, above all days, a day in which 
"to rejoice and be glad," to make 
the world ring with happy songs of 
thanksgiving, to scatter happiness, 
and to share pleasures and blessings, 
not simply and as a matter of course 
with those who belong to one's house- 
hold or one's immediate circle of 
friends, but to the "stranger within 
thy gates " as well. 

That the day was meant, from the 
very beginning of time, to be a day 
of rest, a day of re-creation, was 



shown at its establishment. The di- 
vine law explicitly says that no work 
shall be done on this day, but that 
it is to be kept free from the routine 
of toil, which marks all other days. 
This respite alone should make it a 
season of freedom, of calm repose, of 
serenity of mind and joy of being. 

The world is swinging steadily 
away from the rigid, iron-bound 
severity and grimness of the Puritan 
Sunday, and is coming, in the newer 
conception of life, to make the day 
one of happiness and good cheer, — 
a day in which families meet together 
to renew the ties that bind the 
members together in affection and 
loyalty; when friends have oppor- 
tunity for strengthening the bonds 
of friendship in the congenial com- 



48 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



panionship and confidence that is 
forbidden on busier days, as each is 
absorbed in other cares and duties, 
and when the stranger in the com- 
munity is sought out and made wel- 
come to homes, whose closed doors 
have stared at him in his loneliness 
during the working hours, but which 
now swing open to his touch, bidden 
by the sweet law of Christian hos- 
pitality. 

If this were not so, if it were not 
to be a bright and gladsome day, a 
Sun-day, indeed, why should the 
churches mark Te Deums and Jubi- 
lates to be sung in the services? 
Were the spirit of the Puritan Sun- 
day to prevail, the Miserere would 
be more appropriate; but it is the 
Jubilate and the Te Deum that the 
church calls for, and these joyful 
anthems set the keynote for the day, 
and to these the observance is to be 
attuned. 

Surely, the day, whose religious 
song is such an outpouring of happi- 
ness and blessing, has no right to be 
made a period of constant repression, 
of "mortification of the flesh," of 
disappointment, of restlessness, and 
weariness. This is the setting of 
things at cross purposes, and is done 
by human intervention, and not by 
divine intention. 

The mischief is, it is so hard to get 
away from old ideas, and especially 
those which have been so long held 
as has the tradition of the old New 
England Sunday; and the old habit 
of restraint still clings to the mind 
and the conscience. As a conse- 
quence, many persons are actually 
almost afraid to give themselves up 
to the spirit of pure enjoyment, on 
Sunday, lest they be thus committing 
sin. 

Instead of a season to be dreaded, 
it should be the day of all the week 
to be anticipated; and, surely, it 



may be so, if it be properly regarded, 
and if the observances be made 
pleasant and cheerful, in which each 
one delights to participate. 

The two classes upon whom the 
traditional Sunday bears heaviest 
are the children and the chance so- 
journer in a strange place, who knows 
no one with whom he may exchange 
a word of kindly greeting or cheer. 
To children, trained in the old-fash- 
ioned way, the day was one of de- 
privation and fatigue. Certainly, it 
was most trying; and the child who 
was, as a rule, sweet-tempered and 
happy on other days of the week, 
became fretful and irritable on Sun- 
day, and was marked for punish- 
ment. No wonder children came to 
hate the day, when it was "kept" in 
this fashion. It was "remembered," 
as the commandment said that it 
should be; but — I leave it to the 
most thoughtful and conscientious of 
mothers — was the keeping or the 
remembering, which generated such 
emotions in the breast of an otherwise 
happy child, in any degree "holy"? 

I know a family where certain es- 
pecially attractive pleasures are re- 
served for Sunday, "because," as 
the wise mother explains, "Sunday 
is the best day of the week, and then 
the best things should be brought 
forward." In this family one never 
hears, "You mustn't do this because 
it is Sunday," but "You may do 
this to-day because it is Sunday, 
and we want you to remember it by 
doing something very good." Cer- 
tain books are left to be read on this 
day, and for the younger children 
specially coveted toys are kept for 
that day, and as a reward for good 
behavior. In this home, Sunday is 
not dreaded, but is looked forward 
to as the red-letter day of the week. 

Of course, the proper observance 
of the day is taught, and it is taken 



But I have Hope 



49 



as a matter of course that all who are 
old enough will take part in the ob- 
servance. It is God's day, and a 
holy day, and because of this every 
one must be happy, and glad to tell 
God in his own house how happy he 
is, and to sing the anthem of thank- 
fulness. In this family, church-going 
is a pleasure, and not a hardship. 

In another family there has long 
existed the custom of having an 
extra place laid at the Sunday dinner 
table, and this is to be occupied by 
some one who is away from home 
and a stranger in the place. Some 
member of the family is expected to 
invite this guest, and it is rarely that 
the seat at the hospitable table is 
left vacant. Oftener, indeed, it hap- 
pens that still another place has to 
be laid, at the last moment, for a sec- 
ond stranger, who always finds a 
warm welcome and plenty of quiet 
enjoyment among these new friends. 
Many a young man and woman can 



tell how Sunday was made happy 
for them in this hospitable home, 
when they were strangers, and over- 
whelmed by that wave of homesick- 
ness, which is always more intense 
on this than on any other day. 

The pleasant Sunday evening, with 
music and kindly, improving, enter- 
taining conversation, is a happy time 
in which to welcome congenial friends, 
and makes a fitting close to a day full 
of thoughtful deeds and neighborly 
helpfulness. 

"Neighborly?" do you ask, in a 
half-critical tone. 

Surely, for, in following the habits 
of the friends which I have described, 
you have satisfactorily answered the 
oft-repeated question, "Who is my 
neighbor?" And you have found him 
to be "the stranger within thy gates," 
whom you have set within the sweet 
shelter of your own home, so that he 
is no longer a stranger, but has been 
made a friend. 




But I have Hope 

By Cora A. Matson Dolson 



'Twas all alone, alone walked I, 
Though crowds of others passed me by. 
Upon a barren hillside slope 
It was my feet came up with Hope. 

A wind blew through the birchen wood, 
And led to where my comrade stood. 
It was a joyous sight to see 
When Hope held out her hand to me. 



With every lightsome step she strode, 
Her cloak its rosy Hning showed, 
While at her feet the lavender 
And violets grew sweet for her. 

Like to a truant strayed from school, 
She found a mirror in each pool. 
Where seemed the clouds a lighter hue, 
And wore the skies a deeper blue. 



While I have Hope to walk with me, 
1*11 ask no other company ! 





mxus 



nn& JA. 



ustciers. 



THIS department is for the benefit and free use of our subscribers. Questions relating to 
menus and recipes, and those pertaining to culinary science and domestic economics in gen- 
eral, will be cheerfully answered by the editor. Communications for this department must reach 
us before the first of the month preceding that in which the answers are expected to appear. 
In letters requesting answer by mail, please enclose postage stamp; for menus, ^i. Address 
queries to Janet M. Hill, Editor Boston Cooking-School Magazine, 372 Boylston Street, Boston, 
Mass. 



Query 750.— Mrs. L. H. C, Au Sable 
Forks, N.Y. : "Recipes for chutney and 
pickled cantaloupe, also the best method of 
roasting coffee." 

Sweet Pickled Cantaloupe 
Remove the thin outside rind of the 
cantaloupe and the soft, ripe portion 
inside. Cut into pieces of size for 
serving. For seven pounds of fruit 
make a syrup of five pounds of sugar, 
one pint of vinegar, one cup of water, 
two-thirds a cup of cinnamon, and one 
third a cup of whole cloves. Skim, 
and in it cook the prepared cantaloupe 
until tender. Skim from the syrup, 
let drain, and store in jars. Boil the 
syrup until reduced somewhat, then 
pour over the melon in the jars. 

Apple Chutney 
Pare and core a dozen sour apples, 
peel a mild onion, and seed one cup 
of raisins. Chop the apples, onion, 



raisins, and three green peppers very 
fine. Add one pint of cider vinegar, 
half a cup of currant jelly, and let 
simmer an hour. Then add two cups 
of sugar, the juice of four lemons, one 
tablespoonful of ground ginger, and 
a tablespoonful of salt, and cook an- 
other hour, stirring almost constantly. 
Store as canned fruit. 

To roast Coffee (Miss Parloa's 
"Kitchen Companion ") 
Wash the berries in cold water, and 
dry them by draining on a sieve for 
several hours. When dry, put them 
in a large dripping-pan, being care- 
ful not to have them more than half 
an inch deep. Place in a very mod- 
erate oven and close the door. Stir 
every five minutes until the berries 
are a rich dark brown, which should 
be in about an hour. To every quart 
of the coffee add a generous table- 



Queries and Answers 



51 



spoonful of butter. Stir well, and 
return to the oven for five minutes. 
In roasting the coffee, great care must 
be taken that no part of it shall get 
scorched. Stir every time from the 
sides, bottom, and comers. 



Query 751. — F. R. G. : "What may be 
done to keep Pfeffemiisse soft? They are 
dehcious, but harden so rapidly. Why does 
Madeira layer cake fall?" 

To keep PfefFerniisse Soft 
Try storing in a tightly closed earth- 
en jar. 

Falling of Madeira Layer Cake 
As measurements vary so much, the 
proportions of the ingredients used in 
cake-making are more accurately se- 
cured by weight. Still, if the cake 
falls, the addition of more flour or 
cornstarch is the only remedy. We 
would suggest increasing the two level 
tablespoonfuls of cornstarch to four. 



Query 752. — Mrs. E. E. Moore, Eagleville, 
Mo.: "Recipe for a good cheap ice-cream." 

Good Cheap Ice-cream 

Try the recipe with junket given 
on page 461, May number. Or for the 
cup of grape juice substitute one or 
two ounces of chocolate, melted over 
hot water and cooked to a smooth 
liquid consistency with two tablespoon- 
fuls of sugar and a little boiling water. 
Add also a tablespoonful of vanilla ex- 
tract. The chocolate may be omitted, 
simply flavoring with vanilla, or omit 
both vanilla and chocolate, and use 
a cup of clear black coffee. 

Good Cheap Ice-cream No. 2 
Stir two and a half level tablespoon- 
fuls of flour and half a teaspoonful of 
salt with cold milk until perfectly 
smooth and of a consistency to pour. 
Then stir into a quart of milk, scalded 
over hot water. Stir and cook until 



slightly thickened, then, occasionally, 
for fifteen minutes. Beat the yolks 
of two eggs, add one-fourth a cup of 
sugar, and beat again. Add the rest 
of a cup of sugar to the contents of 
the double boiler, then add the egg 
and sugar mixture. vStir and cook 
until the egg is set. Then strain, and 
add two tablespoonfuls of butter, and, 
when cold, freeze as usual. This gives 
a good foundation which may be flav- 
ored to taste. 



Query 753.— Mrs. K. O. S. S., Oakland, 
Cal. : "Recipes out of the ordinary for dishes 
that may be taken to invahds." 

Dishes for Invalids 
The moulded fish, Norwegian style, 
without the sauce and shrimps, might 
do in some cases. For a sauce use 
peas, if they are permissible, or thicken 
hot cream, seasoned with salt, with 
the beaten yolk of an egg. Chicken 
broth, thickened with a very little 
tapioca (a quick-cooking kind) and 
yolks of eggs (the whipped whites 
poached for the top), is very good, and 
with care may be reheated, if neces- 
sary. A broiled squab in aspic jelly 
is pretty and tastes good. Chicken 
fillets in aspic was given in the Decem- 
ber, 1902, magazine. A paper case 
filled with ice-cream and set aside in 
a pail buried in ice and salt, until very 
hard, may be set into a fancy paper 
case. The top may be ornamented 
with whipped cream or two or three 
fresh strawberries. Will give other 
recipes and suggestions in next issue. 



Query 754. — E. F. W. : "Have kept house 
in Paris. Om* cook gave us fine clear gravy 
for roast beef and mutton. Do not think 
it had any flour in it. How was it made?" 

Gravy for Roast Beef and Mutton 

The French cook gave you clear 

meat juice, that which appears in a 



5- 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



menu as au Jus, gravy proper, not a 
sauce thickened with flour. It came 
from the roast with possibly the addi- 
tion of the browned glaze in the bak- 
ing-pan, dissolved with a little hot 
water after all the fat had been poured 
off. Carved in the butler's pantry, 
the gravy was what came from the 
roast during carving. If the meat 
was carved in the dining-room and 
the au J us served in a dish apart, 
there is but one conclusion to make. 
The gravy was secured as Savarin se- 
cured the mutton gravy for his eggs; 
i.e., at the expense of the roast. 



Query 755.~Mrs. F. H. N., St. John^ N.B. : 
"Recipes for canning tomatoes and string 
beans." 

Canned Tomatoes 
To can tomatoes whole, select toma- 
toes that will pass through the mouth 
of the jars. Put four or five into a 
wire basket, and plunge the basket 
into a kettle of boiling water. Then 
remove the skins, and cut out the 
hard parts around the stem ends. 
Repeat until the jars are filled. Dis- 
solve a tablespoonful of salt in four 
quarts of boiling water and fill the 
jars to the top. Put the rubbers in 
place and the covers on loosely. Set 
on a rack in a steam kettle filled with 
water nearly to the height of the rack. 
Cover, and let boil nearly half an 
hour. Add boiling water, if needed, 
to fill the jars. Screw down the covers 
and set aside. 

Sliced Canned Tomatoes 
Remove the skins and hard por- 
tions as above, and cut in slices. 
Bring to the boiling-point in a granite 
or white-lined saucepan. Add a tea- 
spoonful of salt to each quart of fruit. 
Fill the jars, put on the rubbers and 
covers, and cook in the steam kettle 
about half an hour. Fill from one of 



the jars, if needed, and make the 
covers tight. If a steam kettle be 
not at hand, let the tomatoes cook 
in the saucepan, covered ten or fif- 
teen minutes. Have the cans and 
covers standing in boiling water. Fill 
the cans to overflow, then adjust the 
rubbers and covers and set aside. 
Tighten the covers, when the jars are 
cold. The size of jars is immaterial, 
save the fact that a pint of tomatoes 
is all that is required for use in a small 
family at one time. 

Canned String Beans 
The starch in vegetables, as they 
mature, ferments very quickly, and 
renders it impossible, save by the use 
of chemicals, to can other than very 
young, green, and tender products. 
To insure tenderness, can only such 
vegetables as are known to be freshly 
gathered. On no account use such 
as have stood much longer than an 
hour. When possible, use a "can- 
ner," as it simplifies the process. 
Wash young and tender string beans, 
and remove the ends and strings. 
Keep green beans, about two inches 
in length, whole. Cut butter beans 
into two or three pieces, each. Pack 
in glass cans, and set on a folded cloth, 
on a rack, in a steam kettle or can- 
ner, in which there is boiling water 
nearly to the height of the rack. Dis- 
solve a tablespoonful of salt in four 
quarts of boiling water, and pour 
the water slowly over the beans in 
the jars, filling each to overflow. 
Put the rubbers and lids in the kettle 
to be sterilized {no^ on the jars). 
Cover and cook from one hour to one 
hour and a quarter, then adjust the 
covers, and cook fifteen minutes 
longer. Tighten the covers, when 
the jars are cold. 



Query 756. — Mrs. , Brockton, Mass. 

"Recipe for pickled walnuts." 



Queries and Answers 



53 



Pickled Walnuts 
Take the walnuts when they are well 
filled out, but tender. Pierce each 
one with a strong needle three or four 
times, and lay them in a brine which 
completely dissolves its salt, changing 
for fresh every day for nine days. 
Then spread the nuts in the air till 
they become blaek. Put them in 
crocks, and pour over them this mixt- 
ure boiling hot. A gallon of vinegar, 
an ounce, each, of ginger root, allspice, 
mace, and whole cloves, and add two 
ounces of peppercorns, boiled alto- 
gether for ten minutes. Cover, press- 
ing the nuts under the vinegar with 
a plate, and let them stand six weeks 
before using. 



QuBRY 757. — Mrs. C. O. W., Logansport, 
Ind. : "Menu for a lunch to be served in the 
afternoon after cards." 

Menus for Afternoon Luncheon 

Fruit Salad (Sweet). 

Sweet Wafers, Lady Fingers. 

Iced Tea. 

II. 

Fruit Salad, French Dressing. 

Nut or Cream Cheese Sandwiches. 

Coffee Frappe. 

III. 

Meringues with Strawberries and 

Whipped Cream. 

Fruit Punch. 

IV. 

Ice-cream Sandwiches. 

Russian, Claret or Cherry Cup. 

V. 

Coupe Jacques (or 

Sugared Fruit in cups with 

Fruit Sherbet above). 

Almond Wafers. 

VI. 

College Ice 

(Vanilla Ice-cream, Strawberry or 

Raspberry Syrup). - 

Assorted Cakes. 

Iced Tea. 



Query 758.— Mrs. E. E. M., Eagleville, 
Mo.: "In making French cream, it either 
is too soft or begins to granulate before cool- 
ing. What is the trouble?" 

French Cream 
Fondant that is too soft has not 
been boiled sufficiently. Put over 
the fire to melt slowly, then boil 
again. When fondant "grains," the 
syrup may have been jarred or stirred 
while cooking, or the crystals of sugar 
may not have been washed from the 
sides of the sauce-pan during the 
cooking. One-fourth a teaspoonful 
of cream of tartar added to about 
two pounds of sugar, after about ten 
minutes' cooking, will arrest the ten- 
dency of the sugar to recrystallize. 
We have not the special recipe de- 
sired for nougat. 



Query 759. — Mrs. W. A. D., Baltimore, 
Md. : "Recipe for Devonshire or clotted 
cream." 

Devonshire Cream 

Let a pan of milk, fresh drawn from 
the cow, stand in a cool place from 
twelve to twenty-four hours (the 
shorter time at this season), then set 
over the fire, and let come very slowly 
to the scalding-point without boiling. 
Remove to a cool place for six to 
twelve hours, then skim off the cream, 
which will be quite firm and sweet 
in flavor. Use with cereal, fruit, or 
with whatever plain or whipped cream 
accompanies. 



Query 760. — Mrs. H., 
Recipe for oyster cutlets." 



Evanston, 111. 



Oyster Cutlets 
Parboil — bring to the boiling-point 
in their own liquor — a quart of oysters, 
drain, and let cool, then cut in small, 
pieces, discarding, at discretion, the 
hard white muscle. For a pint of 
prepared oysters, make a sauce of 



54 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



one-fourth a cup of butter, half a cup 
of flour, salt and paprika to taste, 
and one cup of the strained oyster 
liquor, or part of a cup of this and 
the rest of cream or milk. Add also 
a beaten egg and a pint of the pre- 
pared oysters. A teaspoonful of lemon 
juice, a little onion juice, and chopped 
parsley are other seasonings that are 
approved. Turn the mixture into 
a well-buttered shallow dish, and set 
aside to cool. Then shape into balls, 
and press these into cutlet shapes. 
Roll in sifted bread crumbs, cover 
with beaten egg, again roll in crumbs, 
and fry in deep fat. Serve as the fish 
course at a dinner or luncheon, with 
tartare sauce or cucumber salad. 



the larger end, may be fitted closely. 
Hem this end, also the top of the bag. 



Query 761. — Mrs. W. M. S., Woonsocket, 
R.I. : "Recipe for orange frappe." 

Orange Frappe 
Mix together four cups of water, 
two cups of sugar, two cups of orange 
juice (with seeds only removed), and 
the juice of two lemons. Pack the 
can, using equal measures of ice and 
salt, and turn the crank until the 
mixture is about half frozen. Serve 
from a punch-bowl in cups. When 
the frappe has been disposed in the 
punch-bowl, it may be decorated with 
whipped cream. A large rose, made 
with a leaf tube, or small roses, made 
with a star tube, are favorite designs. 
The cream may be tinted rose-color 
or left white. 



Query 762. — Mrs. R. B. B., Providence, 
R.I. : " Directions for making a pastry bag." 

Pastry Bag 
Fold a square of ticking, duck, or 
rubber cloth, to form a triangle. 
Stitch and fell one of the open sides. 
Cut off the small end of the bag thus 
formed, to make an opening, into 
which the shank, or tube, inserted at 



QuBRY 763.— Mrs. A. E. B., Eureka, Cal.: 
"Suggestions for simple, easily gotten lun- 
cheons for my little daughter. We dine at 
five o'clock." 

Suggestions for Child's Luncheon 
(School Age) 
Adults do not digest as rapidly as 
children, and are often surprised and 
sceptical when children, who have 
their meals with them, complain of 
hunger. A hearty mid-day meal is 
an absolute necessity to the well- 
being of the average growing child. 
Such children require meat, or its 
equivalent, twice a day ; but the third 
meal should be light in character, to 
insure sound sleep and healthful 
rest. As milk is provided quite freely 
for breakfast, and is usually at its 
best at that hour, cooked fruit might 
be served at this meal, and uncooked 
fruit, often unsuitable with milk, be 
selected for the noon meal, be it 
luncheon or dinner. Broths of beef, 
veal, chicken, or mutton, prepared 
the preceding day and reheated, and 
accompanied by pulled bread, crackers, 
or croutons, are appropriate with 
fresh fruit. These broths may be 
unthickened or contain rice, tapioca, 
barley, macaroni, or vegetables. 
Among other dishes suitable for lun- 
cheon are egg salad, string beans, 
peas reheated in cream, egg timbales, 
scrambled or poached eggs, or omelets, 
with bread and butter or a toasted 
mufiin. A dish of ice-cream (taken 
from the can prepared for the five 
o'clock dinner) is most appropriate, 
when fresh fruit does not form a part 
of this meal. 



Query 764.— C. C, Charles City, la. : "In 
hemming a table-cloth, should the two raw 
edges only or all four edges be hemmed? 
What is the proper kind of hem, French or 



Queries and Answers 



55 



hemstitched? Is a quarter of an inch the 
proper depth for a French hem? If the 
edges are hemstitched, what is the proper 
depth of hems? Give detail of laying the 
table and serving in a family of two, where 
there is no maid, and often one or more 
guests, when the following menus are 
served:" — 

Breakfast. 

Fruit. Cereal. 

Eggs. Radishes. 

Bread. Butter. Honey. 





Dinner. 




Soup. 


Meat. 


Salad. 


Potatoes, 


, Green Vegetable. 




Dessert. 




Supper. 


Croquettes, 


. Creamed Potatoes. 


Fruit. 


Bread and Butter. 




Chocolate. 



Hemming a Table-cloth 
The object in hemming a table- 
cloth is to finish the edge and keep 
it from fraying. As the selvedge 
edges are already finished, there is 
no necessity of doing anything to 
them. The depth of the hem will 
depend somewhat upon the weave 
of the cloth. If the cloth be woven 
with a border on four sides, the hem 
should be of a width to make the 
space between the border and the 
edges uniform on all sides. In other 
cases, one-fourth an inch is a proper 
width for the hem. The same rule 
holds good, when threads are drawn 
and the hem is finished with hem- 
stitching. 

Laying the Table and Serving 
Breakfast 

A small table is preferable, when no 
waitress is in attendance. A side- 
board or side table, from which dishes 
may be taken without rising from the 
table, is a great convenience under 
these circumstances. Cover the top 
of the table with a silence cloth of 



some kind, fastening it securely under- 
neath the table. Over this spread 
a damask cloth, folded, in ironing, 
down the centre, and then rolled upon 
a rod of suitable length to avoid 
other folds. Set the breakfast plates 
one inch from the edge of the table, 
a fruit-plate in each. Place a knife, 
fork, or spoon, as is needed for the 
fruit, on the cloth, above the plate. 
Place a knife of medium size, with 
cutting edge toward the plate, at the 
right of the plate, with end of handle 
on a line with the edge of the plate. 
At right of the knife lay a spoon for 
the ^%g, and beyond that one for the 
cereal. At the left of the plate dis- 
pose a fork with tines upward, at left 
of this a napkin. If fruit napkins 
be used, place them above the plates 
with the cutlery for fruit. At the 
point of the knife set a glass for water, 
and to the left of this a bread-and-but- 
ter plate, holding a ball or shape of 
butter and bread in some form. Let 
the dish of fruit occupy the centre 
of the table. About this dispose 
symmetrically an extra plate of bread 
and butter, the dish of radishes, and 
the honey. Salt and pepper are set 
between each two "covers." On the 
dish of honey dispose a knife or 
spoon, as is needed. Place the cereal 
in a covered dish before the server. 
At 'the right of this place the dishes 
for this service, the cream and sugar, 
and below them a table spoon for 
serving. After the fruit has been 
passed, the cereal is served to those 
who do not wish fruit and who care 
for cereal. Cream and sugar are 
added by him who serves or are 
passed. One of the family removes 
the fruit and cereal dishes, and brings 
in the eggs in cups, setting them down 
before those for whom they are spe- 
cially prepared. The radishes are 
now passed, and are eaten from the 
fingers. The breakfast plates, hold- 



56 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



ing the egg-cups and spoons, may 
now be removed to the side table by 
one of the family, or set to one side on 
the table. The honey is passed, and 
served on the bread and butter plates. 

Serving Dinner, Menu given 
above 

Above the cloth, at the place of the 
carver, lay a carving cloth. This 
may be large, coming out to the plate 
line on the sides and to the edge of 
the table in front, or extending but 
a few inches beyond the platter. It 
may be plain or embroidered, as 
suits one's purse or fancy. The ob- 
ject is to protect, during carving, 
the table-cloth. For the given menu, 
the covers consist of service plate, din- 
ner size (these may be omitted), 
meat knife, next the plate, soup spoon 
on the right, dinner fork at left of 
plate, with napkin holding a piece of 
bread farther to the left, the water 
glass at tip of knife, and the dessert 
fork or spoon above the plate. Dis- 
pose the carving knife and fork on 
the rests on the carving cloth at the 
right and left, respectively, of the 
carver, the salad fork and spoon 
above the cover and at the right 
and left, respectively, of her who 
sits opposite the carver, and two 
vegetable spoons, or a spoon and 
fork, in front of the cover, that is, 
half-way between these two, at the 
right of the carver. Dispose the 
latter cutlery in position to serve 
the two vegetables provided for this 
course. When the salad is ready for 
the table and has been set into the 
refrigerator, and the meat and vege- 
tables, in the serving-dishes, have 
been set into the warming oven, 
ascertain if all are ready for dinner. 
Set the plates of soup upon the ser- 
vice plates, fill the glasses with water, 
and announce the dinner. 

When the soup is finished, arise 



and remove, one after another, the 
service plates, holding the soup plates, 
to the side table. When the last 
plate is reached, take this to the 
kitchen and return with the meat. 
Take a second plate from the side 
table to the kitchen, and bring in 
the vegetables, on a tray if more 
convenient. Take the dinner plates 
from the sideboard, and set them down 
a little to the left of the carver. 
Set the salad in place, the chilled 
plates in front and a little to the 
left. The carver, after supplying a 
plate with meat, passes it to him 
or her at his right, who supplies the 
vegetables and passes it to the per- 
son for whom it has been prepared. 
In the mean while the salad — which 
from its place in the menu given is 
probably of green vegetables with 
French dressing — is passed. When 
this course is finished, the silver is 
taken up on a tray, and the plates 
are removed, one at a time. Then the 
meat, vegetable, and salad dishes are 
removed, the crumbs are brushed, 
the glasses are refilled with water, 
and the dessert is brought in. The 
dessert may be arranged on individ- 
ual plates, and set down before each 
from the right, or it may be served 
at the table, those nearest the hostess 
passing on the portions, disposed 
on plates, to those farthest away. 

Serving the Supper Menu 
There are three courses in the supper 
menu. For these two plates or two 
plates and a sauce-dish will be needed. 
Both plates may be of medium size, 
or one of this size and a bread-and- 
butter plate may be selected. If 
the latter be the choice, the cover 
will be arranged without service plate, 
the bread-and-butter plate occupy- 
ing the space allotted to this plate (left 
of the water glass and above the space 
reserved for the service plate). After 



Queries and Answers 



57 



the plate holding the croquette and 
potato has been removed, the bread- 
and-butter plate is to be drawn down 
and used for the fruit passed around 
the table from one to another; or, 
if sauce-dishes of fruit are served 
out by the hostess, these plates will 
be retained for their own special 
use. If two plates of the same size 
be preferred, one will be set in place, 
when the table. is laid as the service 
plate, and be retained, after the first 
course, passed on the other plate, 
has been eaten, for the bread and but- 
ter and fruit. These latter plates,- 
or the small plates, may be removed 
or not, as is convenient, before pass- 
ing the chocolate. If the chocolate 
be served at the table, the cups, each 
in its individual saucer, are spread 
out before the hostess, with cream 
and sugar near by. The spoons are 
placed above the service plate when 
the table is laid. Bring in the choco- 
late pot on a small silver tray, to 
catch drops of the beverage that 
may run down the outside of the pot 
during serving. 



Query 765.— C. C, Charles City, la.: 
"Where should salted nuts be placed, on the 
plate or table-cloth? How should maple 
syrup and strained honey be served and 
eaten?" 

Place for Salted Nuts 
When bread-and-butter plates, or 
tiny butter plates, form a part of the 
table service, these furnish a suitable 
receptacle for salted nuts. At a 
dinner of many courses, however, 
the plates are changed too frequently 
to admit a safe place for nuts; and 
the cloth seems the only expedient. 

Service of Maple Syrup and 
Strained Honey 
When these are to be eaten with 
waffles, hot cakes, etc., pass in a 



syrup cup, from which they may 
be poured. The cakes, etc., with 
the sweet would, of course, be eaten 
with a fork. vServed as a relish with 
bread and butter, small dishes might 
be provided, in which the sweet could 
be poured from the syrup cup or 
taken with a spoon from a fancy dish 
of suitable depth. A spoon in this 
case seems to be the proper article 
for individual use. 

Query 766.— F.. H., Buffalo, N.Y.: "Rec- 
ipe for cafe parfait to serve in tall glasses 
and to decorate with whipped cream." 

Cafe Parfait 
Boil one cup of sugar and one-fourth 
a cup of clear, black coffee until the 
syrup spins a thread, then pour in 
a fine stream onto the beaten yolks 
of six eggs, beating meanwhile. Re- 
turn to the fire and cook over hot 
water, if the mixture be not already 
of a consistency to coat the spoon. 
Beat until cold, and fold into a pint 
of double cream and one-fourth a 
cup of clear, black coffee beaten solid. 
Turn the mixture into the can of a 
freezer packed with equal measures 
of ice and salt, cover completely with 
ice and salt, and let stand undisturbed 
four hours. Renew the ice and salt, 
if necessary. A freezer is not needed 
for this dish. A receptacle that ex- 
poses considerable surface to the ice 
and salt will shorten the time of 
freezing. Use a spoon for filling the 
glasses and a bag and tube to pipe 
whipped cream, sweetened and flav 
ored before whipping, upon the top. 
This is the regulation cafe parfait. 
Half -frozen, coffee ice-cream, through 
which half the bulk of chilled whipped 
cream has been folded and the whole 
allowed to stand an hour, may be 
substituted; but the texture is not 
the same. 




Notes and 
Correspondence 



Address communications for this department 
to Janet M. Hill, Editor of the Boston Cook- 
ing-School Magazine, 372 Boylston Street, 
Boston, Mass. 




Boston Cooking School 
The rooms of the Boston Cooking 
School will be kept open during the 
summer months. 

Miss Grace Wills, class of 1900, 
leaves settlement work in New York 
to take a position in a hospital in 
Providence, R.I. 

Miss Brinsmade, class of 1901, has 
taken a position at the Children's 
Hospital in Boston. 

Miss vSigsbee, class of 1902, has gone 
to Harper Hospital, Detroit, Mich. 

Miss Gilson, class of 1902, is sub- 
stituting in the public schools of 
Haverhill, Mass. 

Miss Tanner, class of 1902, was 
married in April, and is now travel- 
ling abroad. She. will make her home 
in Brooklyn, N.Y. 



three latter cities, and much enthu- 
siasm was aroused in matters relating 
to twentieth-century cooking. 



Mrs. Helen Armstrong, of Chicago, 
recently completed a series of cook- 
ing demonstrations on "Cookery up 
to Date" at Indianapolis, Ind, Later 
she has appeared before audiences in 
Burlington and Rutland, Vt., and in 
Bangor, Me. A course of twelve dem- 
onstrations was given in each of the 



Helen Gould's Philanthropic Plans 

Because Miss Helen Miller Gould 
is determined that nothing on her 
estate, which may be made useful 
to the public, shall remain idle, work- 
men are making ready several build- 
ings on the grounds which have not 
at present any special use, so that 
they may be the homes of Miss Gould's 
philanthropic projects. 

Improvements on a stone building, 
which is to be used for a cooking- 
school for the girls of Irvington and 
Tarrytown, are almost completed. 

Besides the cooking-school, Miss 
Gould has donated another building to 
a sewing-school. Here, too, the girls 
of Irvington and Tarrytown will be 
the students. The school has already 
been started. 



"There's a good time coming" for 
those who now wander hungry through 
the down-town streets at noon, seeking 
what they may devour! 

A lunch-room, new in purpose as 
well as in fact, is to be opened early 
in May at 50 Temple Place, Boston, 
{Continued on page x) 



Strawberry 
SKort Cake 

The ^d^Vance Gtiard of 
T>eliciotis Stimmer Foods. 

T^ON'T buy it at the restaurant nor of 
^^ the baker. With Royal Baking Powder 
the Strawberry Short Cake may be made at 
home easily, perfectly. Use either of the 
following receipts. The confection will 
turn out beautiful, appetizing, wholesome. 
Use Royal Baking Powder. Do not use so 
called ^'prepared" or <^ self-raising flour." 



PI^AIN SHORT CAK:^. 



Ingredients.— I quart flour, i 
teaspoon salt, 2 heaping teaspoons 
Royal Baking Powder, 2 tablespoons 
butter, I pint milk. 



swe:et short cakc;. 



Ingredients. — i quart flour, }4. 
cup butter, }i teaspoon salt, i table- 
spoon sugar, 2 heaping teaspoons 
Royal Baking Powder, milk to make 
soft dough. 

Method. — Sift the flour, salt and powder together, rub in the butter cold; 
add the milk (or milk and sugar), and mix into a smooth dough, just soft 
enough to handle; divide in half, and roll out to the size of breakfast-plates; 
lay on a greased baking-tin, and bake in hot oven 20 minutes; separate the 
cakes without cutting, as cutting makes them heavy. 

Pick, hull, wash and drain, ripe, large, berries. Sweeten, spread 
between layers of short cake. Garnish top layer with large whole berries, 
dust with sugar, and serve v^ith cream or custard. 



ROYAL BAKING POWDER CO, NEW YORK. 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



{Continued from page 58) 
under the combined direction of the 
Laboratory Kitchen of Cambridge and 
the Women's Educational and Indus- 
trial Union of Boston. These two or- 
ganizations have united to form a 
corporation under the name of the 
" lyaboratory Kitchen and Food Sup- 
ply Company, chartered under the laws 
of Massachusetts, for the purpose 
of manufacturing, preparing, selling, 
serving, and delivering cooked food." 
This lunch-room, or rather, as it is an- 
nounced upon the sign, these "lunch 
and food-supply rooms ' ' will exist to 
accomplish three distinct purposes: — 

J^irsf, to provide a simple luncheon 
of excellent quality and moderate 
price for down-town shoppers and 
workers, both women and men. 

Second^ to offer a salesroom for 
breads from the Laboratory Kitchen 
and for certain other cooked foods of 
standard quality. 

Third, to serve as a central kitchen 
for the preparation of food that shall 
be delivered hot to the homes of con- 
sumers. 

It is the last feature of the plan that 
renders the undertaking unique and 
explains the Union's interest in the 
experiment. To spread a table in 
Temple Place, where the weary shop- 
per or the yet more weary worker may 
find an attractive luncheon, is a vener- 
able effort, attempted time and time 
again. But to offer to set before the 
same shopper or worker, in her own 
home at night, a dinner hot and appe- 
tizing, is an untried, young venture, 
daring in its possibilities. 

A "heat retainer" has been secured 
that promises excellent results in the 
transportation of hot food^. Indeed, 
such an efficient "middleman" has 
this heat retainer proved that, re- 
cently, a dinner cooked in New Haven 
was served in Boston at the Union 
four hours later, and was still hot. 



The present company is not sufficiently 
ambitious to hope to cover with hot 

{Continued on page xii) 



Meal-time Conscience 

What do the Children drink ? 

There are times when mother or 
father feeds the youngsters something 
that they know children should not 
have. Perhaps it is some rich des- 
sert, but more often it is tea or coffee. 
Some compromise by putting in so 
much hot water that there is not 
much tea or coffee left, but even that 
little is pretty certain to do harm. 
It leads to bigger doses. Then come 
the coffee ills. 

It is better to have some delicious, 
hot food-drink that you can take 
yourself and feed to your children, 
conscious that it will help and 
strengthen and never hurt them. A 
lady of Oneida, N.Y., says : "I used 
coffee many years in spite of the con- 
viction that it injured my nervous 
system and produced my nervous 
headaches. While visiting a friend, I 
was served with Postum ; but it was 
not well made. Still, I determined to 
get a package and try it myself, and, 
after following directions carefully, 
the result was all that could be desired, 
— a delicious, finely flavored, richly 
colored beverage. Since I quit coffee, 
Postum has worked wonders for me, 

"My husband, who always suffered 
from kidney trouble when drinking 
coffee, quit the coffee, and took up 
Postum with me, and, since drinking 
Postum, he has felt stronger and bet- 
ter, with no indication of kidney 
trouble. 

"You may be sure I find it a great 
comfort to have a warm drink at meals 
that I can give my children with a 
clear conscience that it will help 
them, and not hurt them, as coffee or 
tea would." Name furnished by Pos- 
tum Company, Battle Creek, Mich. 



We are advertised by 
our loving friends." 




THIS little son of Joseph M. Rose of Roxbury, Mass., has been raised entirely on 
MELLIN'S FOOD. He is now a sturdy, happy and healthy boy, the result 
of having been fed a proper and nourishing food during all his babyhood days. 
Would you like a sample of Mellin's Food to try for your baby f You can have one free for the asking. 
MELLIN'S FOOD COMPANY, BOSTON, MASS. 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



{Concluded from page x) 
dinners so vast a territory as that 
from Boston to New Haven. How- 
ever, it is believed that dinners, de- 
Hvered hot, at moderate prices, will 
meet a very real need, particularly 
among apartment-house dwellers and 
the increasingly large number of those 
who do "light housekeeping." 

The two upper floors at 50 Temple 
Place have been chosen for this Lab- 
oratory Kitchen, not primarily be- 
cause there are "lower rents at the 
top," but because these upper rooms 
secure a generous supply of sunshine 
and fresh air, thus offering an assur- 
ance, which a- visit to the kitchen will 
confirm, that food cooked here is 
"made under strictly sanitary condi- 
tions." The greens and browns of 
the lunch'rooms give one a pleasant 
effect of quiet and of contrast with 
the hurried throngs and many-colored 
windows of the street below. These 
lunch-rooms propose to rest their 
reputation on the quality and excel- 
lence of what is served rather than 
on great variety. With such an 
ideal in view, great is the responsi- 
bility of the cook! The Laboratory 
Kitchen Company is to be congratu- 
lated in having secured an exception- 
ally stalwart Atlas to bear this little 
lunch-room world on her shoulders, 
in the person of Miss McDonough, 
who has been for some years head 
cook at St. Luke's Hospital, New 
York. With a cook of such ante- 
cedents to put her finger in all the 
pies, one may feel assured of food at 
once appetizing and hygienic. * * Home 
Cooking" done entirely by women is 
to prevail. 

When the doors of the new * * Lunch 
and Food-supply Rooms" are thrown 
open in May, we may expect to find 
a hungry public waiting to rush in. 
Later, when the heat retainer has 
been given a fair trial, we shall have 
a chance to learn "how the hungry 
man was fed" in his own home. 



FEED 

YOUR 
MONEY-MAKER 

WELL. 

Husbands should have 
Brain=Building Food. 



A judge of a Colorado court said: 
"Nearly one year ago I began the 
use of Grape-nuts as a food. Con- 
stant confinement indoors and the 
monotonous grind of office duties 
had so weakened and impaired my 
mental powers that I felt the imper- 
ative need of something which neither 
doctors nor food specialists seemed 
able to supply. 

"A week's use of Grape-nuts twice 
each day convinced me that some 
unusual and marvellous virtue was 
contained therein. My mental vigor 
returned with astonishing rapidity; 
brain weariness (from which I had 
constantly suffered) quickly disap- 
peared; clearness of thought and in- 
tellectual health and activity, greater 
than I had ever previously known, 
were to me the plain results of a few 
months' use of this food. 

"Unhesitatingly I commend Grape- 
nuts as the most remarkable food 
preparation which science has ever 
produced so far as my knowledge 
and experience extends." Name and 
address furnished by Postum Com- 
pany, Battle Creek, Mich. 

The judge is right. Grape-nuts 
food is a certain and remarkable 
brain-builder, and can be relied upon. 
There's a reason. 



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YOUR MOTHER USED 

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THIRTY YBARS AGO 

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Williamsville, N.Y. 



Wheu you write advertisers, please meutiou The Boston Cooking-School Magazinb. 

xiii 



Book Reviews 



Athletics and Outdoor Sports 

FOR Women. By Lucille E. Hill. 

Cloth. Illustrated. Gilt top. Price 

1 1. 50 net. New York: The Mac- 

millan Company. 

This is an attractive book in every 
way. Each of the sixteen subjects 
are treated separately by a special 
writer. The introduction is by the 
director of physical training in 
Wellesley College. Over two hun- 
dred fine iUustrations add greatly 
to the value of the text. They give 
a complete object-lesson in every 
form of athletics. Truly, the "em- 
barrassment of riches" in the volume 
affords the most convincing proof of 
women's interest in health, strength, 
and beauty. 

Physical training in all its branches 
has become a vital part of every 
scheme of education that is worthy 
of the name. The end of all educa- 
tion is the manly man, the womanly 
woman. Here is a gem of truth: 
"Training is simple, practical, right 
living. The event for which women 
should train is a long and happy life 
of usefulness, with no nerves." 

Abstinence from sweets, eight hours 
or more of sleep, cold-water baths, 
and daily exercise in the open air 
are the items to observe and practise 
in establishing hygienic habits of liv- 
ing. These are simple enough, and 
yet they are absolutely essential to 
healthful living. 

"Athletics for men" is not a new 
subject; but the point to emphasize 
here is that the subject of this vol- 
ume is "athletics for women." The 
book was written for women, and it 
should be read by women. It will 
interest, instruct, and profit everv 
reader. She will learn, in detail, how 
women can ride, fence, swim, and 
jump gracefully, play golf and tennis, 
or practise feats in a modern gym- 
nasium, all with great and lasting 



gain to themselves in the matter of 
effective health and strength. 

Next to the cook-book, this is one 
of the most tangible, practical, and 
helpful books of the year. 



Salads, vSandwiches, and Chafing- 
dish Dainties. By Janet M. Hill. 
New edition. Cloth. Illustrated. 
Price $1.50. Boston: Little, Brown 
&Co. 

The favor with which the first edi- 
tion of "Salads, vSandwiches, and 
Chafing-dish Dainties" has been 
received by many readers is very 
gratifying to the author and pub- 
lishers. The author has taken the 
occasion of a second edition to re- 
vise, enlarge, and improve her work. 
Many new recipes and illustrations 
have been added, and each part of 
the volume has been made more 
complete and satisfactory. 

Each of the three subjects, included 
in this book, is treated in a more sys- 
tematic and thorough manner than 
it has been done in any single vol- 
ume with which we are acquainted. 
The contents of the book consist 
of something more than a mere com- 
pilation of recipes. The matter is 
largely original and entirely reliable. 
Each item has been wrought out in 
minutest detail and with the greatest 
care and painstaking, while the illus- 
trations of prepared dishes are original 
and unrivalled in variety, quality, 
and excellence of make-up. 

Of all the books that have yet been 
published on these subjects, for com- 
pleteness, explicit direction, and reli- 
ability, this book will easily take first 
rank. 

"And why do you consider it un- 
lucky to dine thirteen at a table?" 

"Well, you always find that it places 
the party at sixes and sevens." 



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When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

XV 



Household Hints 



Differences in Girls 
I^aura D. Gill,- dean of Barnard Col- 
lege for Women, makes out, in her 
studies of girls, three classes. First, 
the natural home-lovers and home- 
makers. These no college education 
could spoil, for not all the wisdom of 
the sages could ever change them. 

The extreme opposite of these are 
the girls who have absolutely no genius 
for home-making, who cannot even 
arrange the flowers properly; who, 
when they take home responsibilities 
on themselves, always do everything 
wrong. This sort of girl, if she is not 
allowed to have a career outside the 
house, often blunders along trying to 
do her best at home-making, and suc- 
ceeds only in making everybody mis- 
erable. Many a home has been ruined 
by such a woman. If she has a capac- 
ity for a career, it is better for the chil- 
dren and the men to let her follow it. 

She is of the sort who must marry, 
not for the love of a home, but for the 
love of an individual ; and, if she does 
marry for that, she is, also, of the sort 
to conquer all her disabilities as a 
home-maker for the sake of the man 
she loves. 

Most girls, however, belong to a 
third class. They are not particu- 
larly domestic, but they have latent 
powers for home-making. This sort 
of girl should be kept in touch with 
the home life throughout her college 
career. Her vacations should be, 
whenever possible, passed at her home, 
doing home duties. Her domestic 
faculties should be cultivated in all 
possible ways. The more she is 
brought into contact with children, 
the better, provided it is under proper 
conditions. If she studies the kinder- 
garten system, it will be well; for this 
not only develops a love for children, 
but a knowledge of how to educate 
and manage them. A friend mar- 



ried a kindergartner. I always con- 
tended the education she had from it 
had helped her to be a splendid 
mother. Nature and inheritance had 
prepared her for this in advance; 
training had put on the finishing 
touches. 



The Ralston Health Club uses the 
following language:— 

"Old age, or ossification, is the pen- 
alty of ignorance in regard to drinking 
water. Raw drinking water is to 
pure distilled water what raw pork is 
to cooked meat. All solids contain 
calcareous, or old age, materials. 
The distilled liquids of juicy fruits 
are not only free from old age matter, 
but dissolve and draw off as much 
calcareous substance as the solid food 
deposits. 

"Fruits and solid foods would, 
therefore, ward off decrepitude and 
age, were it not for the raw water we 
drink. As nature distils the water 
in her fruits, man should take lesson, 
and drink only distilled water. It 
is not only free from calcareous, or old 
age, matter, but, like juicy fruits, will 
dissolve and carry off all such matter 
contained in solid food. Nature sets 
us great examples, and the time is 
not far distant when raw water will 
be a thing of the barbaric past." 



Platfs 
(' Uorides 

The Odorless Disinfectant 

Destroy disease germs. Sold in quart bottles only by drug- 
gists, - high-class grocers, and house-furnishing dealers. 
Manufactured by HENRY B. PLATT, New York 



Wkeu you write advertisers, please mention T;ie B©stoh Co©king-School Magazine. 

xvi 



Advertisements 



KITCHEN BOUQUET 



I )o Years 




a FavofiUi 



For 30UPS. SAUCES, QRAVIES, 
ROASTS, STEWS, ENTREES 

AND QBNBRAL CULINARY PURPOSES 

Imparts a Rich Color and Delightful Flavor. The 
Kitchen Garden Condensed and Ready for Instant 
Use. Keeps in Any Climate. Used and endorsed by 
Great Chefs and Eminent Teachers of Cookery 

•• H(niaekeeplng would be a burden without It."— Sabah 
Ttsok Bobbb. 

** I know of no other kitchen luxury which is bo near a 
necessity."— Hblbk Armstboko. 

'' Invaluable to the housekeeper."— Mabt /. Limcolh. 

" Indispensable to all savory dishes. "— Janet M. Hill. 

"Indispensable to all up-to-date housekeepers."— AucK 
Cast Watbbman. 

.VA*"'^^,"''*^ 'i/oj. ^*'t ^^^ yew" »n<l would not be with- 
outlt."— EmiltM. Colling. 

u '14.i?^*^i^'\*'' '°. *i^ K^®** cooking."- E. LaP«bbu<ju», 
Head Chef, Delmonlco's. 



If your grocer doesn't keep it, insist on his getting it for you. 

WRITE FOR FREE SAMPLE AND B00KLET\ 

Send 80 cents in stamps for prepaid package. 

The PALISADE MANUFACTURING CO. 

251 Clinton Avenue, WlST HoBOKSN, N.J. 
N.B.— The word "Kitchen Bovquet" is exclasively our 
trade-mark. Infriagementa will be prosecuted. 
3nrinonnoooooooooooo£3ooooo( 



/ 



Weddini^ Gifts 

of Gold and Silver retain 
their original brilliancy 
indefinitely when cleaned 
and polished with 



^UECTRo 

^ Silver Polish g 

Silicon 



Used by owners and makers of Valu- 
able Plate for more than a 
quarter century. 

ELECTRO-SILICON SILVER SOAP, 

if you prefer a soap to a powder, 
has equal merits. Grocers and Drug- 
gists and postpaid on receipt of price. 
15 CENTS PER CAKE. 

Electro Silicon Co., 30 Cliff St. , New York. 



\ 





A\INUTI 

[gelatine : 


g 


^ 


"Doesn't it look delicious?" [\ 

Yes, and it tastes just as delicious as 
it looks. It is a dainty, delightful des- 
sert; and every one knows it is thoroughly 
wholesome, for it is made of 

Minute Gelatine. 

Purest — Makes the Most and the Best — 
Quickest to Serve. 

Pink Coloring (for fancy desserts J in every package. 

Send 15 cents and for Full-sized Two-quart Package 

your Grocer's name |il,f*"' Jlfl "^J""** Man*' 

•^ ... _ Recipe Book. This tells about 
our Minute Tapioca and Minute Malted Cereal Coffee. 

Address WHITMAN GROCERY CO., Dept. S, 
Orange, Mass. 


■ 1 



Wken you write advertisers^ pleas© mention The Boston Co^KiNe-ScHOOL Magazine 

xvii 



Household Hints 



How not to be Nervous 

How shall we manage not to be ner- 
vous? By proper living; proper work- 
ing and playing, eating, drinking, and 
sleeping; above all, proper thinking 
and feeling. ... 

Labor may have been a calamity to 
Adam and Eve. Nowadays it is no 
curse, but the bright particular star 
of happiness. To have a wholesome 
ambition and to work with enthusiasm 
for its fulfilment, — these form the very 
essence of a vigorous existence. . , . 

Many an invalid would be well 
to-day, if he had a worthy purpose 
in life and happily labored for it. 
Many a hysterical woman would be 
stable and strong, had she consist- 
ently striven with singleness of aim for 
a laudable object. . . . 

The greatest efficiency of any living 
tissue is attained by alternating activ- 
ity and rest. . . . 

All life is attuned to this wonderful 
rhythm of action and repose. . . . 

Besides relaxation we must have 
diversion. We must play, if our work 
is to be effective and long sustained 
and if we are not to be nervous. 

Ambition is a wonderful force, and 
makes for progress. Emulation is 
an excellent stimulus, and industry is 
better than both; but in excess the 
combination has worked the nervous 
ruin of many. . . . 

To sum it all up, if you wish never to 



be nervous, live with reason, have a 
purpose in life and work for it, play 
joyously, strive not for the unattain- 
able, be not annoyed by trifles, aim to 
attain neither great knowledge nor 
great riches, but unlimited common 
sense, be not self-centred, but love the 
good and thy neighbor as thyself. — 
Dietetic and Hygienic Gazette. 



How to be Beautiful 

Stay out of doors as much as possi- 
ble. 

Walk, ride, or drive in the park, or, 
better yet, in the country. 

Play ball, golf, tennis, or any other 
outdoor game. 

Breathe deeply, and breathe fresh 
air. 

When you can't be out of doors, 
have the windows and doors broad 
open. Even the smoky city air is 
better than the stuffy, close air so 
many starve their lungs in. 

Deep, slow, regular breathing can- 
not be accomplished unless one stands 
erect ; that is, with the chest high and 
the shoulders down rather than far 
back. 

Drink plenty of water. A full glass 
half an hour before breakfast and at 
intervals till bedtime is the rule. 
Women with dried parchment com- 
plexions usually drink little water. 

Simple, wholesome food in abun- 



SAVES HOSIERY 

NEVER SUPS, TEARS, NOR UNFASTENS 



EVERY PAIR 
WARRANTED 




Sample pair, 
by mail, 25c. 
If your dealer does not sell you this 
Supporter, he does not sell the Best 
GEORGE FROST CO.. Makers, Boston, Massi 



HOSE 
SUPPORTER 



CUSHION 
BUTTON 



Every Clasp has the 
name Stamped on 
the rietal Loop!!^^' 




When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xviii 



Advertisements 



Coal 



1 s 



M o 



n e y 



Save coal 
and money 
by using 





brd 



Qoklng-R^Lnges 



THE OVEN IS THE BEST : asbestos lined, and with 
improved heat-saving Cup-joint Flues, which utilize all 
the heat and consequently save fuel. 

THE SINGLE DAMPER (patented), the Improved 
Grates, and the perfected Fire-box insure perfect combus- 
tion. 

THE NICKEL EDGE-RAILS are removable : they sim- 
ply lift off when it is desired to polish the stove or clean 
the nickel. 

CRAWFORDS HAVE MORE IMPROVEMENTS than 
all other ranges combined The Single Damper is alone 
worth the cost of the range. 

If there is no Crawford agent in your town, we would like 
o send you a Crawford Range on thirty days' trial. 

ViTALKER (Si PRATT MFG. CO. 

31»35 Union Street, Boston, Mass. 




^^ 



"What Ails the Stove" 

VXT'ELL, so many things ail the stove that we have had to write 
^^ a book about it, and while we were telling about stove 
troubles we thought we might as well explain their cause and cure. 
Many people do not know that nine-tenths of all the things that 
ail the stove are due to a defective fire=box lining, but it is the 
truth. The remedy is simple enough, however, when you find it 

out, and can be applied in a few minutes any 

morning. Yesterday your range was so 

"cranky" you could do nothing with it. 

This morning you applied the remedy, 

and to-day you'd declare you have 

the best range ever built. What 

makes the difference ? * 



KhampioN 

LtOVE CL/ 









Send a postal for our book, 

"What Ails the Stove" 

and find out, — a simple story 
quickly told, and sent Free. 

Don't neglect the Stove Lining : the 
Life of the Stove deepnds upon it. 

BRIDGEPORT CRUCIBLE CO. 

BRIDGEPORT. CONN. 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xix 



Household Hints 




( 






Good Health in Every Cup." 

FIGPRUNE 
CEREAL 

Invigorating, not Stimulating 

This statement applies fully to 
Figprune Cereal,which consists of 
54% fruit and 46% grain. Coffee 
and Tea are stimulating, the seem- 
ing good etfects of which are only 
temporary. 

The Black Figs, Prunes and Grain 
from which Figprune is made, 
render it a table beverage of rare 
food value. In Figprune Cereal, 
California has produced a logical 
meal-time drink. Boiledfrom 5 to 
1 minutes extracts the food value 
fully, and the rich flavorfrom the 
fruitandgrain. Where coffee, tea, 
chocolate or cocoa are discarded 
and Figprune adopted, the bene- 
ficial result of the change is soon 
apparent. 

GROCERS SELL IT. 

We will send free, for your 

grocer's name, a sample and booklet 

of California's Wonderland 

Figprune Cereal Co. 



\ 




dance should be eaten at regular meal 
hours, — good meat, eggs, plenty of 
vegetables, with soup, fruit, and a 
green salad every day in the year for 
dinner. — Philadelphia Record. 



A New Cure 

Certain doctors maintain that the 
best way to prevent indigestion is to 
whistle without a pause for a quarter 
of an hour after dinner. 

In days gone by, w^hen meals were o'er, 

To guard ourselves from ill, 
The black, unpleasant draught we'd pour, 

Or bolt the azure pill. 
But now we've found, it seems to me, 

A trick that's better far. 
We are a happy family, 

We are, we are, we are! 

A whistled tune, M.D.'s have found, 

All tonics will eclipse. 
So volumes of the richest sound 

Stream from our pursed-up lips. 
Each chooses his own melody, 

There's not the slightest jar. 
We are a happy family, 

We are, we are, we are! 

My father renders "Nancy Lee," 

My mother "Dolly Gray," 
My sister, in a diiferent key. 

Works hard at "Sail away!" 
My brother tries "Abide with me" 

(Six faults to every bar). 
We are a happy family, 

We are,^we are,'[_we are! 

And as the cheery notes arise, 

And soar toward the roof, 
Fell Indigestion quails and flies, 

Dyspepsia holds aloof. 
Our health, as far as I can see, 

Continues up to par. 
We are a happy family. 

We are, we are, we are! 

The Cookery and Catering World. 



Completed Proverbs 

"Labor overcometh all things, 
even the laborer. 

"Employment brings enjoyment, 
when it brings the means to enjoy.- 
Era. 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

XX 



Advertisements 




Ever tried 'em ? 

They're a revelation of cracker 

excellence — 

a dainty, wafer-like morsel that 

appeals to particular people — 

Always crisp and fresh — 

Try 'em with soups and salads. 

S. S. PIERCE CO. 

SelliAtf Agents 
Boston BrooRline 




FOOD MADE WITH 

Mrs. LINCOLN S 

BAKING POWDER 

It finer grained, tweeter, more 
healthful, and keeps moist 
longer than that raised by the 
more rapid action of po orders 
containing other acids. 



MAsa. 



Grocers 



It 



eOSTON, 

AFTER MANY YEARS' EXPERIENCE, I 

AM CONVINCED THAT A PURE CREAM OF , 

TAflTAR BAK1n6 POWDER IS THE BEST^ 

QUICK LEAVENINQ AQENT, AND 18 A^ 

WHOLESOME FOOD ADJUNCT, 

I GUARANTEE THAT THIS POWDER, j 
PREPARED AFTER MY FORMULA, CON- , 
TAINS ONLY THE HIGHEST POSSIBLE 
GRADE OF' CREAM OF TARTAR AND BI- 
CARBONATE OF SODA, WITH THE SMALL- 
EST PERCENTAGE OF CORN STARCH 
NECESSARY FOR ITS PERFECT KEEPING. 
AS LONG AS MY SIGNATURE.APPEAR8 
ON THE«E LABELS, HOUSEKEEPERS, MAY > 
BE SURE THAT THIS FORMULA WILL BE 
FOLLOWED IN THE MANUFACTURE OF 
THIS BAKING POWDER. 



AOTHO* 9^Hg/l30STON COOK BOOK" 
HO MA, *^ OF MRS LINCOLN'* BAKING 

rOWOER eoivrPAKY. 



Office 

2X 

Commerce 
Street 
Boston 
Noofr geauine without Mrs. Mary J. Linoola'a dgnatwe 



AN J^^^^^^ TO 
OFFERING Sm^mi^m^ PURITY. 



Choicest Concord 

Grapes— table grapes, 

are used for Welch's 

Grape Juice. The Welch 

process transfers the juice 

from the luscious clusters to 

the bottle unchanged in flavor, 

aroma, beautiful color aQ4 

(cod properties. 

Welch's 
Grape Juice 

Is absolutely unfermented and 
without antiseptic. It is as pure 
and delicious as the grape In 
the cluster. 

Sick and well need Welch's 
Grape Juice. It gives health- 
keeps health. 

At your druggists or grocers, 
or we will send a trial dozen 
pints for $3, express prepaid 
east of Omaha. Booklet with 
recipes, free. 3-oz, sample by 
mall, IOC. 



'^WQ-chQr&peJuiceCx 

Westfield.NY 



lookoni 
for the 



^felLITTlE 
^1 RED 
DEVIL 






UN D E R W O O D'S"b R I G I N A L 

The pure aad delicate Deviled Ham which has been on the marketf or 
years. Sugar-cured ham and fine, pure spices is all that we use. 
It is delicioUB for sandwiches, at lunch, picnic, or tea, and in the 
chafing-dish. It may be bought at any good grocers, but b« sure you 
686 on the can THE LITTLE RED DEVIL. There is »aly ONE 
Deviled Ham — TJndarwood's lte<l Devil ISramd. All 
others ara imitations, butimitationsin name only, as the goods •om- 
monly labeled and sold as potted or deviled ham, made as they are 
from the odds and ends of the packini? house, are no more like 
Underwood's Original Ham than chalk is like cheese. 
Our Book contains a lot of unique and practical receipts. We will 
send it FREE. WM. UNDERWOOD CO., Boston, Mass., U. S. A. 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Bosto^"^ Cooking-School Magazine. 

xxi 



Household Hints 



See what 

they say 

about 

Junket 

Tablets 



San Jose, Cal., April 27, 1903. 
Chb. Hansen's Laboratory, 

Little Falls, N.Y. 
Dear Sirs: I enclose herewith seventy-five cents 
in stamps, for which please send me one hundred 
Junket Tablets. Your tablets are excellent for 
making Junket desserts. They are unequalled. 
Yours respectfully, 

(Mrs.) A. F. DUCKWORTH. 

DuRANT, Miss., April 30, 1903. 
Chr. Hansen's Laboratory, 

Little Falls, N.Y. 
Gentlemen : Please send me your ice-cream 
pamphlet and any other literature you may have on 
ice-cream. I have been using your Junket Tablets 
for several' years, and think them very fine. 
Yours respectfully, 

(Dr.) R. E. HOWARD. 

Alton, III., April 29, 1903. 
Chr. Hansen's Laboratory, 

Little Falls, N.Y. 
Dear Sirs : Your favor of the 27th inst. received, 
and will say in reply we sent you an order for one 
hundred of your Junket Cream Tablets, and use 
them with a great deal of satisfaction. They solved 
the question for us in making ice-cream. The fact 
of the matter is, we would not try to make ice-cream 
without them. 

Yours truly, 

ZELLER & DUNN'S PHARMACY. 



We mail postpaid 

Box of ten Junket Tablets $0J0 

Box of one hundred Junket Tablets, . .75 

Box of one hundred Junket Cream Tablets, 2.00 

Chn Hansen's Laboratory, 

Box nn LITTLE FALLS, N.Y. 



Miss Sexton, of Casablanca, tells of 
her experiences among the Moorish 
women in North Africa: "Senora, 
can't you give me some medicine to, 
make my husband love me?" is the 
pitiful question which has been put 
to me by several women. "He hates 
me, senora ; says he will divorce me, 
and get another wife." "Well, no, 
we don't keep that kind of medicine in 
the house," I answered; and look- 
ing round the filthy, dirty huts, and 
glancing at the ragged, untidy women 
before me, I thought it was not much 
wonder if their husbands did not re- 
gard them with affection. "But I 
will tell you what to do to make your 
husbands love you, and that will be 
just the same as medicine." "Oh, 
yes, yes: let us hear what that is." 
I proceed: "In the first place, as soon 
as your husband goes out in the morn- 
ing, you must sweep the hut, lay down 
clean matting, and shake the cushions 
and mattresses. Then clean the tea- 
tray, and make it shine like gold. 
Wash the glasses and put the water 
on to boil, so that, when Si Mahommed 
comes in, he will not have to wait for 
his tea. Then wash your own dirty 
face and hands, put on a clean gar- 
ment and your best sash, arrange a 
nice kerchief on your hair, and put on 
all your necklaces, earrings, and brace- 
lets. When the time comes for your 
husband to return, sit on a cushion 
and look sweet. Try that, and you 
will find he will love you, and talk no 
more of divorcing you." The women 
gazed at each other in doubt at first, 
then smiled, and finally screamed with 
laughter. "Good, sefiora," they an- 
swer, "we will try that." 



Hetty Green says the trouble about 
divorce rises from the fact that the 
women never learn to keep house, but 
prink up and parade around. Then 
the men begin to parade around, and 
trouble starts. Mrs. Green obviously 
knows how to say things. 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xxii 



Advertisements 




Cttdahyls Rex Biand 
Beef Extract 

is superior to all others 




M^t savS?y Soups, Sauccs, Gravies 

and 

BEEF TEA 

FRFI-I OUR FAMOUS INDIAN HEADS 
I IILiIh ■ are highly prized for "dens." 
We will send you one FREE if you will 
send us the names of your grocer and 
druggist, and four cents in stamps to cover 
cost of mailing, or a metal cap from a 2-oz, 
jar of Rex Brand Beef Extract. 
Address Beef Extract Dept. 

The Cudahy Packing Company 

South Omaha, Neb. 

Pictures copyright by Heyn, Omaha, Neb. 





Don't Get Angry 

when the piece of cheese in your pantry 
gets hard, dry, and unfit to place on your 
table. Had you purchased a jar of 
MacLaren's Imperial or MacLaren's 
Roquefort, you would have been pleased. 
No shrinkage ; never gets hard ; always 
the same. 

NOTHING BETTER 
For sale by all grocers the world over. 



HAVE YOU EVER TRIED 

TEA-ETTE? 

The Tea of the Twentieth Century 

People are fast learn- 
ing the vulue of Tea- 
Ette, and how impor- 
tant it is to use pure 
tea. You cannot drink 
tea because there is 
something in it that 
makes you nervous 
and keeps you awake 
nights, that some- 
thing is Tannin. 

If you use Tea-Ette, 
which contains no Tan- 
nin, you avoid all these 
troubles and get all the 
stimulating qualities 
that tea possesses, and 
no bad effects from its 
use. 

There is no Tea that 
equals Tea-Ette in pur- 
ity and flavor. 

Sold only in original 
packages, insuring cleanliness and purity. 
TRY TEA-ETTE.— Used in millions of families. 
Write for booklet about Tea-Ette. 

» SPECIAL OFFER FOR MAIL ORDERS { 

Ask your grocer for it. If he does not keep it. insist 

on Ins getting it for yoa; or on receipt ot 30 leiits 

we will send you, pos^tpaid, a half-poiind pncknge 

Oolong, English Breakfast, ;\[ixed or Ceylon flavors. 

Upcu with every order for one-half ponnd hv mail, we 

7, ,, .."^^^1^ include either a Celluloid Hand' INIirror. a 

Celluloid Covered 100-page ^Memorandum Book, a Rt d, 

W lute and Blue Lead Bencil and Rubber, era beautiful 

and artistic Calendar for l i'03. Addiess 

Royal Tea-Ette Co., 43 Wallabout Market, Brooklyn, NY. 




1^ 



WITen you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazikk. 

xxiii 



Household Hints 



« 



THE WARE 
THAT WEARS 





ir 



t 



w 




Imported, 

Quadruple 

Coated. 



The BEST and 

PUREST 
EnamelledWare. 



Used and 

recommended 

by the highest 

cooking 

authorities. 



Be sure to get 

the GENUINE. 

Carefully look at 

the label. 

Imitations are 

imported and 

sold to some 

dealers at a few 

cents apiece 

less. 



t 







f Lasts for years 



STRANSKY & CO., 
New York. 



The German Way 

Perhaps it would be unfair to gen- 
eralize too confidently, but there are 
shop-keepers in Germany who make no 
great effort to dispose of their goods. 
An instance of this is given in "Three 
Men on Wheels." The author accom- 
panied an American lady on a shop- 
ping excursion in Munich. She had 
been accustomed to shopping in Lon- 
don and New York, and grumbled at 
everything the man showed her. It 
was not that she was really dissatis- 
fied : this was her method. 

She explained that she could get 
most things cheaper and better else- 
where. Not that she really thought 
she could, merely she held it good for 
the shopkeeper to say this. She told 
him that his stock lacked taste. He 
did not argue with her; he did not 
contradict her. He put the things 
back into their respective boxes, re- 
placed the boxes on their respective 
shelves, walked into the little parlor 
behind the shop, and closed the door. 

' ' Isn't he ever coming back? " asked 
the lady after two or three minutes 
had elapsed. Her tone did not imply 
a question so much as an exclama- 
tion of mere impatience. 

"I doubt it," I replied. 

"Why not?" she asked, much aston- 
ished. 

"I expect," I answered, "you have 
bored him. In all probability he is 
at this moment behind that door, 
smoking a pipe and reading the 
paper." 

' ' What an extraordinary shopkeep- 
er!" said my friend, as she gathered 
her parcels together and indignantly 
walked out. 

"It is their way," I explained. 
"There are the goods. If you want 
them, you may have them. If you 
do not want them, they would al- 
most rather that you did not come 
and talk about them." 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xxiv 



Advertisements 



lABLE KMVES 
TJgAT CJJ'T 




'SUCCESS IS ATTAINABLE BY ALL. 
ONLY THE FEW MAINTAIN IT." 

Qoodell Table Cutlery 

HAS DONE BOTH. 

It is Honestly Made. ^ 

It is Handsomely Finished. 

It is Carefully Inspected. 

Quality combined with beauty makes this 
the popular brand Avith people of taste and 
refinement. Ha\ing it on your table is a mark 
of good breeding. 
GOODELL CO., Antrim, N. H., V. S. A. 



Sn the Sood Old Summer TJtme^ 

YOU'LL NEED 

A GOOD REFRIGERATOR 

AND THAT'S 

6>6e Bald^v^in 

Dry Air, Cleanable 

WE CATER TO YOUR PREFERENCE FOR 
Porcelain, Metal, or 
Odorless Wood 
Lining. 

The Baldwin is not 
one of the new ex- 
periments, but has 
stood a test of 25 
years. It is the 
original and lead- 
ing automatic dry- 
air refrigerator ; its 
circulation is posi- 
tive; its lever wedge 
fasteners are a spe- 
cialty and patented ; 
lastly, its metal air 
flues are removable 
for cleaning. 
Baldwin porcelain- 
lined styles chal- 
lenge comparison 
with any other 
make, not except- 
..,.., ing the heavy and 

high-priced styles that are tiled outside as well as in. 
Send for catalogue and be convinced. 

BALDWIN REFRIGERATOR CO., 100 Lake Street, 
Burlington, vt. 

Boston Warerooms 
SHEPARD, CLARK & CO., 83 Commercial Street 





SAVES 
TIME 



SAVES 
LABOR 



GUSS WATER COOLERS 



Nerer Wear Out 



No 

Germs, 
Insects, 
Dust, or 
Dirt. 



Ice and 

Water 
Separate. 

Absolutely 
Clean and 
Hygienic, 




UNBREAKABLE 

Water can be chilled to any temperature de- 
sired. Will last a lifetime with ordinary care. 
Write for Pamphlet " E." 

APPERT GLASS CO., 277 Broadway, New York 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

XXV 



Household Hints 




Records "Broken 
Time and Quality 

Two things are necessary to mak- 
ing good ice cream quickly. 

The first is a White Mountain 
FRKBZKR. Second is to know how. 

Your dealer will sell you the freezer. 

We will send you free the book 
that tells how. 

Ordinary freezers are seldom used 
because they make hard, disagree- 
able work, which becomes an easy, 
economical task with the 

Triple Motion 

White 
Mountain 

Ice Cream Freezer 

The freezer with a character and repu- 
tation to sustain; the standard freezer 
of the world. 

Write at p |3 |p p copy of the 
once for a " B^ b b revised book. 

^*FROZEN DMNTtES*' 

Contains trustworthy recipes for the 
best frozen desserts of all liinds and 
tells how to make them with least labor. 
The WHITE MOUNTAIN FREEZER CO. 
Dept. Q, Nashua, N. H. 



The Retort Courteous 

George Ade, the author of the pop- 
ular "Fables in Slang," is an expert 
at badinage; but in Chicago one day 
a little messenger boy got the better 
of him. 

Having only a few minutes for 
luncheon, Mr. Ade had gone to a cheap 
place, and was sitting on a stool be- 
fore a marble counter, when the mes- 
senger boy entered, took a place be- 
side the humorist, and ordered a piece 
of apple pie. As he ate the pie, the 
fact became evident that his hands 
were dirty. 

There was on his plate a piece of 
cheese, a piece of very yellow, hard 
cheese, cut with mathematical pre- 
cision, so that it resembled a cake of 
soap. Mr. Ade pointed to it, and 
said, — 

"Here, boy, take that, and go wash 
your hands with it." 

The boy answered, "You take it, 
and go shave yourself." 

There was no possible rejoinder, for 
Mr. Ade's beard was indubitably of 
two or three days' growth. 



At a certain resort hotel kept by a 
happy-go-lucky individual, who never 
worries over the complaints of his 
patrons, the proprietor was going in 
to breakfast the other morning, and 
met an irate lady coming from the 
dining-room. 

"Your coffee is abominable this 
morning, Mr. ," she said. 

"I'm glad you told me," blandly 
replied the proprietor. "I'll drink 
tea." 




THE BREAST FOR BABY. 
The Cell for Food 



On sale by all 
druggists. Com- 
plete bottle, by 
mail. 38c. In or- 
dering, address 
Dept. B. 



flygeia Nursing Bottle Co., Buffalo, N- Y 




When you write advertisers, please mention The Bostok Cookinq-S 

xxvi 



CHOQij Magazine. 



Advertisements 



I Anci 



:s6gQg££yg®g>fl e 



Ancient 
Kitchen Tools 

are all right for a museum. They 
have no place in the modern kitchen. 
It is just as reasonable to expect a 
harvest with a hand plow as good 
cooking from poor kitchen tools. 
We have a full supply of 

Up=to=Date 
Kitchen Appliances. 

They tave Time, Money, Labor, each 
one saving many times the cost of the 
Utensil. Call and look over our 
Stock. Inquiries cheerfully answered. 
Address 

LEWIS & CONGER, 

130-132 West 42nd Street, 
NEW YORK. 






& 



would certainly be convenient. With it you 
could reach all interior parts of water bot- 
tles, decanters, vases, oil cruets, nurs- 
ing bottles, lamps, chimneys, etc. 

The Universal Bottle Cleaner 

does just that. It's like an artificial finger 
that reaches the remotest comer and pol- 
ishes the cut glass till it sparkles. 

IT GETS INSIDE 



SPECIAL OFFER 



Sent to any ad- 
dress for 25 




Ask your grocer 
or hardware dealer for 
it, and, if he does not 
keep it, send us, before 
July I, his card or bill- 
head with 25 cents for the Uni- 
versal Bottle Cleaner, and we 
will send you for your trouble 
the Bottle Cleaner and a free copy of Mrs. 
Lincoln's latest Peerless Cook Book, con- 
taining over 650 recipes, including 100 of the 
latest and best chafing-dish recipes. 

IDEAL SPECIALTY CO., 22 Berkeley Street, 

READING, MASS. 




When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 



Household Hints 




Amer'KT , 

5e6t 

ramiiy 

Dessert 



SOME REiSONS 

why 

Jell-O 

is the most popular dessert. 

It takes no time to make 

it : simply add boiling wa- BS«a*.t3ii«i'Vi_vif i-_.«i" 

ter and set to cool. It saves you hours that you would 

spend over other desserts. It is delicious (everybody 

likes it), economical, and healthful. Made from purest 

gelatine, sweetened and flavored with fruit flavors : 

Orange, Lemon, Strawberry, and Raspberry. Try it 

to-day. At grocers' everywhere. 10 cts. No additional 

expense. FREE OFFER. 

If your grocer can't supply you, send us his name 
with 5 cts. for postage, and we will forward you a full- 
sized package free, provided you mention this maga- 
zine. Only one package to a person. 



wepare<l iiv TiieCen tstt Mi foop Co., Lt.Ror, N.Y 



Handy Fruit and 
Vegetable Slicer 



'^rO utensil used in 
■^ ^ the kitchen is of 
such general utility. It 
slices all kinds of vege- 
tables and fruits better 
than any other, and is 
the only one on which 
you can make *' Lat= 
tice Potatoes." It 
is especially useful in 
making Salads. 
If your dealer doesn't 
keep them, send us his 




name OR 25 cents 



(stamps or coin) for one, postpaid. 



HANDY THINGS COMPANY 

22to32Rowe Street, LUDINGTON, MICH. 



Manana (To-morrow) 

My friend, have you heard of the town of 
Yawn, 
On the banks of the River Slow, 
Where blooms the Waitawhile flower fair, 
Where the Sometimeorother scents the air, 
And the soft Goeasys grow? 

It lies in the valley of Whatstheuse, 

In the province of Letherslide ; 
That tired feeling is native there, 
It's the home of the listless Idontcare, 
Where the Putitoffs abide. 

The Putitoffs smile when asked to invest, 

And say they will do it to-morrow; 
And so they delay from day unto day, 
Till death cycles up and steals them away, 
And their families beg, steal, or borrow. 

Popular Mechanics. 



Customer. "I want something in 
oil for my dining-room." 

Floor-walker. "Do you mean a 
painting or a box of sardines?" — Flit 
gende Blaetter. 

A Turkish medical savant has dis- 
covered a new remedy for all diseases. 
He got his idea from the fact that, if 
a person is very tired and changes his 
clothes, he is refreshed. Following 
this up, he has worked out a beautiful 
theory, by which you can get rid of 
any illness by frequent changes of 
clothes of special make, adapted for 
each illness. 



BREAD MACHINE 

For Household Usb. 
Sifts the flour and mixes lo pounds 
of best bread in three minutes. Sold 
subject to trial and approval. Send 
for Booklet. Agents wanted. 
Scientific Bread Machine Co. 

(Cyrus Chambers, Jr.) 
52d and Media Sts., Philadelphia 



THE OLD RELIABLE 




Carburet •£ 
IroB" 



DIXON'S 
Stove Polish. 

Jos. Dixon Crucibli C©., - - Jbrsky City, NJ. 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine^ 

xxviii 



Advertisements 




Adds Li^ht 
dLiid Life to 
Linen SLnd all 

wash faLbrics ai\d 



Makes Shirts, Collars, Cuffs, 
Shirt Waists, Skirts, Dresses, 
Table Linen, and Lace Curtains 
look like NEW. 
No other Starch will produce such perfect results. 




ELECTRIC LUSTRE STARCH is ^U 
ways sold ii\ BLUE packages. Price 10c. 
V Be svire yovi get tKe Genuine. ^ 



For Sale by all Grocers. 
4®=Save the fronts of your Electric Lustre Starcli 
packages. Send four fronts to us, and we will send 
you a Dainty Pear Wood Thermometer free. 

ELECTRIC LUSTRE STARCH CO. 

26 Central Street, Boston, Ma^ss. 



Sawyer's 



Sold in 
Sprinkling 
Top Bottles. 




CRYSTAL 

BLUE 

Gives a 

beautiful tint 
to linens, 
laces, and re- 
stores the 
color to goods 
that are worn 
and faded. 

Be 8ur« 
that 70U 

SAWYER'S 

45 YEARS THE PEOPLE'S CHOICE. 



m 



n 



jfer 



■^. 



-^-^^'^ 



1"^ 



r 



\f 



a 



Chops Them AH 



99 



What ever you wish to chop — 
meat, fish, fowl, vegetables, 
bread — for making the family's 
favorite dishes, such as hash, 
mince pie, Hamburg steak, cro- 
quettes, fish balls, and curries, 
the quickest and easiest way is 
to use 

SARGENT'S 
GEM 

FOOD CHOPPER 

It saves time, strength and 
trouble, and uses up "left- 
overs." Does not mash, tear, or 
grind food ; chops coarse, fine, 
or medium. Simple, durable, 
easily cleaned. Has self-sharp- 
ening knives. 

Sold at hardware and house- 
furnishing stores. Send for free 
Gem Cook Book. 

SARGENT & CO. 
148 Leonard St., New York. 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 



Household Hintg 




Case of Superstition 
"Oh, Charles, we can 
down with thirteen at 



Not a 

Mrs. B 
never sit 
table." 

Mr. B. "Pshaw! I hope you're 
not so superstitious as that." 

Mrs. B. "No, of course not; but 
we have only twelve dinner plates." 



Little Tommy. "Can I eat another 
piece of pie?" 

Mamma (witheringly). "I suppose 
you can." 

Tommy. "Well, may I?" 

Mamma. "No, dear, you may not." 

Tomm,y. "Darn grammar, any- 
way. ' ' — L ippincotfs. 



It has remained for the patient and 
ingenious German to produce cooking 
utensils of molten quartz. In appear- 
ance they are as brilliant as diamonds ; 
but, while they resemble glass in being 
transparent, they are not brittle like 
glass, neither will they crack, it is said, 
with sudden changes of .temperature. 
Quartz pots and pans can be heated 
red-hot, and then be submerged in ice- 
cold water without being damaged in 
the least, or they can be subjected to 
an equally severe treatment on the 
opposite tack without seeming to feel 
it a mite. The reason for this is stated 
to be that quartz, unlike glass, neither 
expands nor contracts much under 
changes in temperature. 



ibese trade-mark oi 

Glut 

BARLE 

Perfect Breakfast 
^ANSy PLOU 
Uolike aU 
Fop 
FARWEU&RHIN 




is 



nes on every pactcage« 

STALS* 

Heated CcreaSa. 
Cake aad Passrf « 

Ask Orooeit» 
write 
own.N.Y«UJA 



Strawberry Hullers 

NO SOILED FINGERS 
NO CRUSHED BERRIES 
BRASS NICKELLED BY MAIL, 10c. 

Agents Wanted 

F. A. Walker & Co., 8 Brattle St., Boston, Mass. 




When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

XXX 



Advertisements 




Mothers and fathers, do you 
realize that in order to main- 
tain the perfect health of 
your children, they must re- 
ceive the proper proportions 
of heat, bone and muscle- 
making- and' nerve and brain- 
building food? 

SHREDDED 
Vfflff BISCUIT 

contains all these food properties in correct proportion. 
In providing it, you are supplying a food that properly 
and completely nourishes the whole body and that will 
make men and women with sound teeth, strong bones, firm flesh, 
elastic muscles and good nerve and brain power. 

Buy it of your Grocer. Send for "The Vital Question" zr^^ 
(Cook Book illustrated in colors), FREE. Address ^ 

TUB NATURAL FOOD COMPANY, Niagara Falls, N. Y, 



Alpha 

Salad 
Cream 



is the ideal salad dressing 

for all varieties of salads. 
It is also the ideal sauce or 
relish for cold meats, canned 
salmon, shrimp or lobster, 
fish cakes, baked beans, cold 
slaw, cold cauliflower or as- 
paragus, cold hash or on 
sandwiches. 




GONmiNS 



Alpha 
Salad 
Cream 



is absolutely pure. Never 
separates. Never spoils. 
Those who like oil can add 
their favorite brand with 
perfect results. Samples not 
mailable. 

ALI, 
GROCMRS 



Martha Taft Wentworth Recipe Book (60 Recipes and Suggestions) sent 
free for grocer's name. This book includes premium list. Informs you how to 
secure the New Game of Diamonds free. This game sells at 50c. to $1, 
according to style and quality of board. 

WONDERLAND PUDDING TABLETS. One tablet makes a quart of milk 
into a milk jelly more delicious, refreshing and nourishing than other desserts. 
Also make Delicious Ice Cream. Package of 10 Tablets by mail 10c. No samples. 

THE H. J. BLODQETT CO., Inc., 70 Thayer St;, Boston, Mass. 



Wheijt you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine, 

xxxi 



Household Hints 



GARMEL 



-^ 



^ii^ 



MOTHEBS WANT TO USE 

that which will keep the baby's skin soft 
and free from skin diseases. 

OLIVE OIL 

is recognized as the one thing in toilet arti- 
cles to do It. 

Carmel vSoap 

is made wholly of 
Ptire, Siveet Olive Oil 

and made right where the olives grow, at 
Mount Carmel, Palestine. Nothing can be 
more necessary to the nursery than such a 
soap. 

Sold by Druggists and Leading Grocers. 

Imported by A» KLIPSTEIN & 
122 Pearl Street, New York. 



er5. 

CO., I 



PINE WOOD 

Is the best for Refrigerators. It 
stands extremes of temperature bet- 
ter than any other wood. It will 
stand these extremes without warp- 
ing, springing, or checking. That 
is why the 

Eddy 

Refrigerators 

are made of pine, and one of the 
many reasons why they last so many 
years and are so universally popular. 

D. EDDY & SONS, Manufacturers 
BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS 

Our Catalogue "will give you ififormatio?i. Ifsyree. 



A New Booklet 

The H. J. Blodgett Co., Inc., have 
published a very attractive booklet 
describing their products, "Alpha 
Salad Cream" and "Wonderland Pud- 
ding Tablets." The book also con- 
tains many recipes by Martha Taft 
Wentworth. The recipes are practi- 
cal, and will be found helpful to 
housekeepers. For a free copy of 
this booklet address The H. J. Blod- 
gett Co., Inc., Boston, Mass, 



Strawberry Dumplings 
One ^%g, one cup of sweet milk, one 
tablespoonful of melted butter, three 
tablespoonfuls of Congress Baking 
Powder, flour enough to make a 
paste a little thicker than for griddle 
cakes. Butter cups, and drop a 
spoonful of batter in each. On this 
put three or four large strawberries, 
and cover with the batter. Steam 
half an hour. Serve with cream and 
sugar or with strawberry sauce. 

•••• THE •••• 

"KITCHEN AND HAND" 

• • • ^v^r\M • • • 




For removing Tar, Pitch, Cement, Varnish, Paint, Axl« 
Grease, Blacking, and all impurities from the hands, it b 
unequaled, leaving the skin soft, white and smooth. 

Beware of Imitations. For Sale by all Grocest. 



CHAS. F. BATES & CO. 

Proprietors and Manufacturers, 

Office, 123 Oliver St., - - - Bostoii 
PMtory. WoUMton, Mms. 



When you writ© advertisers, pleas* mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xxxii 



Advertisements. 



BEST YET 

It was Longfellow who said : "Others judge 
us by what we have already done." That's it 
exactly. It's the only safe basis for a correct 
exegesis so to speak, 

AndiheMa^ee /\eatleps 

^ (Besi by all Tests) 

are so phenomenally popu- 
lar because they are judged 
not by what we say, but by 
what they have accomplished 
accident about it, 




The 




There is no ^^ 
Nothing just happens. 



Magee Heaters 

are preferred before all others because they best 
warm homes and at less expense than all others. 
That's'the logical result of logical construction. 
Ask those who have used the Magee and you'll 

know. Illustrated circular free. 

Magee Furnace Co., Makers ofMag^ee Heaters and 
Ranges, 32-38 Union Street, Boston. 
"Highest Award Gold Medal, Paris Exposition." 



The hardest part of the work of cherry preserving, 

removing the stones, can be done 
easily and quickly with the 




Enterprise 

Cherry 
Stoner 



Clean, handy, and simple in 
construction. Easily adjusted 
for large cr small cherries. 

By a turn of the crank the stones are removed, with the least cutting of the 
fruit, and absolutely no waste. Ask your dealer to show you the 
* 'Enterprise." Send 4 cents for "Enterprising Housekeeper" — 200 recipes. 

THE ENTERPRISE MFG. CO. OF PA., Philadelphia, Pa. 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xxxiii 



Household Hints 




»- HI itit III! I III! Mil ■ ■ iin aiM m i wia m i M mm lyi m 

Makes a success of any Soupy A 
SaucCy or Salad Dressing, ... I 

McILHENNY^S j 
TABASCO. 

The perfection of flavor, the 
epitome of strength. Avoid 
cheap substitutes, and use only 
the original Mcllhenny's, made 
at New Iberia, Louisiana. 
Booklet containing recipes on 
request. 

E. McIlhenny's Son, 
New Iberia, Louisiana. 

Boston Office, 43 Central Street. 

r « 

* "• — 11 r-T I wi Mill III! m ri]i j i u jn ^ 



The Housekeepers' Union 
In Holyoke, Mass., three hundred 
servant-girls have instituted the 
Housekeepers' Union, the membership 
of which will include all classes of 
women servants. The primary ob- 
jects of the union are shorter hours, 
more wages, and more privileges. 

So far as is known, the House- 
keepers' Union is the only labor or- 
ganization of the kind in the country. 
The organization will be affiliated 
with the Central Labor Union. 



Under the title of " New England's 
Most Progressive railroad," C. S. 
Harrington in the National Magazine 
says : — 

' ' This railroad has long been noted 
for the efficiency and courtesy of its 
employees; and, taken in connection 
with the luxurious trains, fast and 
prompt time made, connections with 
other great railroads, and its wonder- 
ful road-bed and beautiful scenery 
along its line, particularly through 
the Berkshire Hills, which in them- 
selves are well worth a long journey, 
it makes travel over the Boston & 
Albany Railroad an experience that 
will be always remembered with pleas- 
ure; while the feeling of absolute 
safety — the entire length being 
double-tracked and all trains being 
run under telegraph orders, in con- 
nection with the block signal system 
— contributes much to the unalloyed 
comfort of the tourist." 



Orist Mill 

Wheat Coffee 




CHILDREN LIKE IT 

AND 

^^UT LIKES THEM 

ksKYOUR OROCER-HE SELLS It 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xxxiv 



$1.00 A YEAR 



lO CENTS A COPY 








THIV- 

CGDKING-SCHGDL 
MACAZI]SLE> 





OF CUMNAICr ^OIE/MCI> AND 
DOME/STIC/ E/OO^LOMIOSl 



VOL. VIII. AUGUST-SEPTEMBRR, 1903 No. 2 




# 
# 



After the Painting by Thowas Sedg-ivick Steele 

THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 
372 Boylston Street, Boston, MassacHtisetts 



yright, 1Q03, by the Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



Entered at Boston Post-ofBce as second-class matter 




C/3 
bo 



u 



u 

ba 



The 
Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



Vol. VIII. 



AUGUST- SEPTEMBER. 



No. 2. 



Raffia Work 

By Mary A. Stillman 

Plaiting mats of flags and rushes." — Longfellow. 
Rude baskets, woven of the flexile willow." — Dyer. 




AFFIA, a tough, 
straw-colored 
fibre, some - 
times erroneous- 
ly called "Mada- 
^ gascar grass," 
is a product 
of a Madagascar 
palm-tree. In the island where it 
grows it has long been employed in 
the making of hats and hammocks, 
fabrics and mattings. In the United 
vStates, until recently, it has been used 
mainly for tying up bunches of vege- 
tables and flowers. Within a few 
months the importation of raffia into 
this country has been greatly increased 
by the demand for it in basketry and 
fancy work. In this product of the 
palm the worker finds a stout, pliable, 
and beautiful material, at small ex- 
pense, a pound bunch of the natural 
fibre costing at the florist's only twenty 



cents, while the same amount dyed 
in pleasing colors may be obtained 
from the dealer in rattan for sixty 
cents. One pound is sufficient to 
make many useful objects. 

For the simplest articles, like small 
baskets and dolls' hats, the raffia is 
braided and the plaits sewed together 
in the desired shape. Braided belts, 
sewed in the same way, have their 
ends finished with tassels, with loops 
for ribbons, or with raffia-covered 
buckles. A belt that needs no sewing 
may be plaited with nine or eleven 
strands ; but by far the prettiest belts 
are knotted in patterns similar to 
those used in macrame lace. These 
belts are worn crossed in front and 
fastened with a belt pin. Useful 
bedroom slippers are formed of braided 
raffia, with the addition of an insole, 
a lining of cloth or soft leather, and 
a border of looped raffia at the top. 



62 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



The slipper shape is obtained by tack- 
ing the braided strands temporarily 
upon a wooden last before sewing 
them together. 

Napkin rings are made by cover- 
ing a cardboard, foundation with raffia 
in long buttonhole or blanket stitch. 
Handkerchief and candy boxes are con- 
structed of cardboard neatly wound 
with raffia; these may have covers 
or not, as desired. Picture-frames, 
whisk-broom holders, flower-pot coa^- 
ers, and many other fancy articles 
have the pasteboard foundation en- 
tirely concealed by tightly drawn 
loops of raffia. Toothpick holders, 
small catch-alls, and baskets, have 
a thin wooden block for a base. Into 
a circle marked upon this, long wire 
nails are driven about half an inch 
apart, to form the stakings of the 
basket. Around these raffia is woven 
"over and under" to the desired 
height, the last end being secured 
by tying it to a nail. The use of 
cardboard, wood, nails, etc., is an 
easy method for beginners, but it 
is not considered good basketry, as 
it has no place in the evolution of the 
basket. Dainty jewel baskets and 
bonbon travs, which are above criti- 




g Hats 



cism, may be formed in the true Ind- 
ian fashion, winding and binding the 
pliable fibre over rattan or heavy 
cord. The covered case for a trav- 
eller's cup, shown in the illustration, 
was made in this manner. A col- 
ored border or pattern adds attrac- 
tiveness to baskets and boxes. Rope 
the size of clothes-line is not too large 
to cover for work-baskets, or twists 
of raffia may be covered instead. A 
free pamphlet on Indian basketry, 
showing many stitches, may be ob- 
tained by applying to the Smithsonian 
Institution, Washington, D.C. 

Toy furniture of raffia over a foun- 
dation of rattan or wire would delight 
the heart of any little girl, especially 
if she were taught to do the work her- 
self. Dolls' hammocks are easily net- 
ted, as are soap and sponge holders 
and bags of various kinds. Table 
mats, on which to set hot dishes, aie 
tied in a six-pointed star pattern of 
raffia alone, while round or oblong 
mats are wound with raffia over rat- 
tan. A chatelaine pocket, to be worn 
on the belt, has been devised by the 
young girl whose picture appears on 
this page. One of the greatest charms 
of raffia work is that it offers such a 
good opportunity for the invention 
of new patterns. 

A method of making beautiful hats 
has been introduced from Sweden. 
A round hat-board with a crown and 
some large pins are necessary acces- 
sories to this work, as well as a short 
length of picture wire for stiffening 
the brim of the hat. The raifia is 
pinned to the board, knotted, and tied 
exactly as cord is used in macrame 
work. A sailor-shaped hat is fash- 
ioned by fitting the lacy pattern 
closely over the hat block, while a 
Tam-o'-shanter effect is produced by 
making the crown quite full before 
tying it down with picture wire. 
Extra strands of raffia are added to 



Raffia Work 



63 












Ready for Service 



needle, and, where particular smooth- 
ness is desired, they may be wet be- 
fore using. Any flower with long 
slender leaves, like the fleur-de-lis 
or the tiger lily, is effective on such 
a design. The cat-tail pattern, on 
the screen in illustration, is embroid- 
ered in outline and cross stitch on 
blue burlap. The panels are fastened 
to the wooden frame with strips of 
leather and brass-headed tacks. 

It is hoped that this paper may 
prove suggestive rather than exhaus- 
tive, as to the uses of raffia. Why 
may this material not be looped into 
burlap, to make a floor mat? Who 
will invent a pattern for the knitting 
or crocheting of raffia, or for its use 
in the hand loom, either alone or in 
combination with some kind of thread? 
Surely, any macrame pattern may be 
carried out in raffia, instead of cord, 
and doubtless many other uses may 
be found for this adaptable material. 
This work is especially recommended 
for invalids, who need some light and 
pleasing occupation, and for children. 
Already it has been introduced with 



give the desired fulness to the brim, 
which is finished v\'ith a covered wire 
and a scalloped edge. These hats, 
belts, and pockets are pleasing ad- 
ditions to linen or pongee costumes. 
For a black or colored hat the fibre 
must be dyed before making it up, 
as it is almost impossible to dye the 
knots an even color afterward. 

Raffia and colored beads form a 
pretty combination, in many dainty 
articles, one of the most attractive 
being a watch guard to wear w4th 
summer dresses. Large beads ap- 
pear at intervals of about an inch, 
while knotted rafiia forms the chain 
in the intervening space. Raffia may 
be substituted for thread in embroid- 
ery with pleasing results. The strands 
should be split for threading into a 




Cat-tail Pattern on Screen 



64 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



great success into hospitals and schools, useful employment for the hands 
where it has been found to afford without undue strain upon the eyes. 

















t 






iim^^ii^^^ 


J|^ 


i 


'^:'-'£^^ 


piiMM 




ilk 


m 







Various articles in Raffia Work 



L'GEuf de PAutriche 

By E. H. Rydall 



ANEW kind of food is being 
served on the tables of the 
palatial hotels in Southern 
California; to wit, the egg of the 
gigantic ostrich. Ostrich egg omelet 
is not a very common dish, at this 
writing, on these tables or elsewhere 
in America, but every now and then 
an egg is sent up from the Pasadena 
Ostrich Farm, to variegate the sump- 
tuous menu that invariably appears 
for the delectation of the luxurious 
guest. While a great novelty in Cali- 
fornia, still the eating of ostrich eggs 
is a practice as old as the hills in 
Africa. Many a weary Arab, wander- 
ing over the barren, sun-scorched 



desert, has been solaced by the dis- 
coverv of an ostrich nest containing, 
among a number of eggs, one or two 
that were fresh. 

An ostrich egg weighs three and a 
half pounds, and is somewhat larger 
than a cocoanut. It contains thirty 
ounces of albumen, and is equal to 
about thirty eggs of the ordinary hen. 
One ostrich egg would be sufficient 
for a breakfast dish at a large and 
fashionable boarding-house. If a 
boiled egg be desired, half an hour 
must be allowed to boil it. The com- 
mon method of cooking the ostrich 
egg in California is as an omelet. 
Thus prepared, it tastes like an omelet 



L'CEuf de I'Autriche 



65 



made of hens' eggs, and nobody would 
know, unless so informed, that it was 
aught else. 

A curious leather apparatus is used 
by the farmer, to determine the fresh- 
ness of the egg before he sends it up to 
the kitchen of the palatial hotel. This 
is shaped like a funnel, with one end 
larger than the other. Placing the 
egg at the larger end, the farmer 
raises it toward the sun, and looks 
through the smaller end. If a dark 
spot is observed in the centre of the 
egg, it is immediately replaced in the 
nest; for the egg will in due time be- 
come a chick, the market value of 
which is, at present, $25. There is 
seldom the necessity of this observa- 
tion to determine the quality of an 
egg, because the keepers of the farm 
know very well, by actual observation, 
\^'hen the hen ostriches are laying 
eggs. Indeed, the casual visitor to 
the ostrich farm need linger not 
very long to observe the bird quietly 
and with dignity laying an egg in its 
own nest. 



Ostrich eggs in California and Ari- 
zona are worth $72 a dozen. There 
are not many telephone orders from 
the hotels to the farms for fresh eggs, 
at the market price. Indeed, such as 
are used are generally forwarded by the 
courtesy of the manager of some 
ostrich farm, the proprietor of which 
wishes to advertise the existence of 
his curious institution to the throng 
of tourists who frequent the magnifi- 
cent hotels of Southern California. 
The shells even of the ostrich eggs 
are worth $12 a dozen, and are sold 
to travellers as mementoes of their 
visit to the Golden State. Sometimes 
they are decorated by pyramids, palm- 
trees, and ostriches painted upon 
them, and are sold for a much higher 
price. Even fragments of ostrich 
shells are beautified in this manner, 
and are sold, at a trifling cost, to visi- 
tors. Perhaps no egg or shell in the 
world brings so much money to the 
producer as that of the domestic 
ostrich. In Africa the shells are made 
into lamps, to light up, in the same 




Ostrich Chicks at Ostrich Farm, Pasadena, Cal. 
Ostrich Egg with Hen's (ordinary fowl) egg beside it 



66 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



old-fashioned way as the lamps of 
the Romans, the religious edifices of 
the Arabians. Ground ostrich shell- 
dust is used as a medicine by some of 
the natives of Africa. 

The ostrich has been eaten, accord- 
ing to tradition. The diagnosis of 
the average American or African 
farmer results, however, in the state- 
ment that it is imeatable. The Jews 
ages ago prohibited its use as food. 
Doubtless some respectable "frys" 
could be made by a skilful chef from 
the very young ostrich ; but American 
experience does not record, to this 
date, any such experiment. Little 
ostriches often die at the farms, and 
their bodies are promptly stuffed and 
placed on sale as souvenirs. Tradi- 
tion says, however, that the carcasses 
of ostriches were hung up in trees, in 
Africa, by native hunters, so that other 
travellers and hunters could refresh 
themselves while wandering. There 
is no reason to doubt that the flesh 
of a young ostrich would not be 
tender and of a satisfactorv flavor. 



Ostriches are not now raised for 
their eggs, though the wild centaur 
of the desert has descended into a 
species of barnyard fowl, and has 
pens built for it the same as any 
other kind of poultry. It is for ex- 
hibition as a curiosity and for the 
sake of its feathers that the American 
domestic ostrich is cultivated. Farms 
exist at Pasadena, Norwalk, and Ful- 
lerton, California, and at Phamix, 
Ariz. At the latter place are found 
fifteen hundred ostriches, yielding 
about $30,000 worth of crude ostrich 
feathers, annually, for the benefit of 
their proprietors, and forming the 
nucleus of that vast population that 
will, at some future day, cover the 
mesas of California and the meadows 
of Arizona as the race now does the 
barren wastes of the veldt in Africa. 

With a record such as the African 
ostrich farmer has to show, the most 
sanguine hopes for the future of the 
American ostrich may be safely and 
complacently entertained by all those 
who look into this interesting subject. 



Man's View of Woman 



Man's view of woman (God's unanswered 

question) 
Depends upon his mood and his digestion. 
Has he been loved too Httle or too much, 
He draws her picture with no flattering 

touch. 
Has he dined well and smoked his favorite 

brand, 
Ah! then he is her servant to command, 
And she an angel straight from paradise. 
To-morrow? Lo! she wears a devil's guise. 



Because to-day he over-smoked or drank, 
Dear sires, you have your varying selves to 

thank, 
Not us to laud or curse for what we seem. 
Methinks your praise and blame are both ex- 
treme. 
Woman is not a demon or a saint. 
Divine she is, but with a mortal taint, 
A creature formed by nature to be human 
And mate with man, therefore made — a 
woman. 



Unlike enough that he may seek for her 
And like enough to sometimes weakly err; 
So human that she puts his heart on fire, 
And so divine she bids his soul aspire. 
His puzzle, punishment, and recompense, 
With senses, sensibilities, and sense 
(She set God wondering at his own great 

skill). 
She sees man as he is: he sees her as he will. 

Ella Wheeler Wilcox. 



Veranda Talks 



The Professor's Story 



D 



By Mrs. C. 

BLAY, a spirit of tardiness, 
irresponsibility, that, Mrs. C, 
is an evil of the times, which 
every mother should overcome in her 
child," said our friend Professor S., as 
he swung in the hammock while wait- 
ing for his claret-cup. 

"I do believe people are constantly 
late for everything," he continued. 

"Church services begin a few min- 
utes after advertised time, and at 
least a fourth of the congregation 
straggles in late. At concerts and 
theatres it is just the same. 

"Send for a plumber or carpenter 
in a hurry, the chances are ten 
to one that he is late in keeping his 
appointment, and perhaps doesn't 
-appear at all, until after another 
summons. 

"If we do not take especial pains 
with this coming generation, it will 
develop the manana habit of the 
Spaniards and Mexicans, — To-mor- 
row! And to-morrow never comes. 

"We often speak of this lack of re- 
sponsibility in many of our college 
boys. An engagement seems a hap- 
liazard affair to most of them, to be 
fulfilled or not according to con- 
venience." 

"I agree with you, professor. We 
liave been advocating military drill 
in the schools, to foster a spirit of 
promptness. But do you not think 
that part of this tardiness comes 
from the rush in which our young 
people live? They attempt so many 
more things than there is time for." 

"Very true, Mrs. C, and thereby 
I am reminded of a story. You 
remember our orphaned cousin who 



H. Converse 

lived with us while he was in *prep. ' 
school? We grew quite fond of him. 
Well, he was always filling his time 
with more undertakings than he 
could accomplish. His excuses were, 
'I forgot ' or 'I couldn't get around 
to it.' His college habits were the 
same; and, when he was elected class 
poet, in spite of my knowledge of 
his capability, I was sure that poem 
would not be ready for Class Day. 

"Just before the great occasion 
I went to his room, and found him 
deliberating over a letter, which he 
tossed to me. 

" 'What's up now, Hal?' I asked. 

" 'An invitation to deliver an ad- 
dress, — a Fourth of July oration, in 
my native town of Way back, — and 
a little advice as to my future thrown 
in. Here, let me read it to you : — 

East O., June 19, 18- 
Mr. Henry Hali.: 

Dear Sir, — At a meeting of the townspeo- 
ple of Bast O., O. Centre, North O., and O. 
Plains, it was unanimously voted to cele- 
brate the glorious Fourth in such a way 
as to increase the patriotism of our youth. 
So, being as old Jedge Pettingill won't be up 
to his place this summer, the choice fell on 
you, as the only other college eddicated man 
to hail from here. And I was appointed to 
write you this invitation to make the speech 
on that occasion. 

The exercises will be held in the Town 
Hall at one o'clock. 

Hoping to hear from you soon, 

Yours to command, 

DanieIv Tucker. 

P.S. — Your second cousin, Sarah Ann 
FHnt, says you're going to study tooth-doc- 
toring. Why don't you be a horse doctor, 
and settle in your native town? You'd get 
plenty of trade. 

"'Hurrah for you, Hal. Shall you 



68 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



accept? You've only two honor 
"zams" and your class poem to think 
of now. A little thing like a Fourth 
of July speech would be nothing to 
pile on. Perhaps you might really 
finish something if you took a little 
more to do,' said I. 

" 'Quit chafhng, Chet. I know 
I seem slack. I realize my besetting 
sin of attempting too much. And, 
somehow, the more I have tried, the 
more things have seemed to hinder 
me. This time I'll succeed. My 
poem will be delivered, and my finals 
won't be a flunk; and don't you for- 
get it.' 

' ' He must have worked like a 
beaver; for, after the successful de- 
' livery of his poem on Class Day, he 
had his Fourth of July address ready 
to rehearse. He had taken Village 
Improvement as his topic, making 
a patriotic beginning and ending. 

"He remembered the natural beau- 
ties of the place, and enlarged on these, 
skilfully alluding to improvements 
which would attract summer boarders 
and keep the young people from set- 
tling elsewhere. He had become 
quite enthusiastic on the subject him- 
self, so hoped he might interest his 
hearers. 

* ' It was a beautiful morning in 
June, when he took an electric car 
out to Burrill's Woods to rehearse 
his speech. No sound of the neigh- 
boring city penetrated the leafy still- 
ness, and only the drowsy hum of 
insects and occasional flute of the 
wood-thrush gave token of life. 

"Harry climbed a large boulder 
in a clear space and began, warming 
to the work as he forgot his novel 
surroundings. In the midst of one 
of his most brilliant perorations a 
hoarse growl interrupted him, and, 
turning in the direction of the sound, 
he saw a repulsive-looking tramp, 
large, powerful, with frouzled hair 



and beard, naked to the waist, and 
carrying a heavy club. He looked 
dangerous. Harry wished himself 
anywhere but in the middle of Bur- 
rill's Woods just then, and, naturally, 
curtailed his Fourth of July eloquence. 

' ' But Mr. Tramp began. 

"'Oh, yes! this is what I waked 
up to hear! "Improve," is it? "Im- 
prove " ! We don't want no improve- 
ments round yere. We're near im- 
proved off'n the yairth now. "Im- 
prove"! Pooh! I know what we 
want. We want peace. We know 
the wally of peace 'nd quiet. Peace! 
d'ye hear? I'll take fifty cents fur 
this disturbance, and let ye off easv. 
If my pard wakes up, he'll clean ev'ry 
one er them darned 'ristercratic rags 
off'n ye. So git!' 

"Poor Harry was glad to get away 
minus only fifty cents, and planned 
to rehearse the speech in the woods 
at East O., on the morning of the 
Fourth. 

"My daughter Lena went with 
him the afternoon before that day; 
and, getting off at B., the station 
before Hast O., they drove to his 
old home without passing through 
the village. Thus they avoided many 
good townsmen who would undoubt- 
edly meet the train. 

"So, while Deacon Tucker, Parson 
Hewitt, and Farmer Goodale, 'the 
committee,' and a dozen others were 
waiting in the twilight for the train 
to bring their Fourth of Juh^ orator, 
he was jogging over the hills, showing 
Lena all his favorite haunts as a boy. 
Then second cousin, Sarah Ann Flint, 
gave them a glorious supper, and they 
were soon asleep. 

'"Well, he ain't turned up,' said 
Deacon Tucker, when the train had 
rolled away, 'and I s'pose he'll come 
in the mornin', and we can tell him 
then of the change in our plans. I 
wrote him we'd celebrate in the Town 



The Professor*s Story 



69 



Hall at O. Centre, and the Congre- 
gational church in East O. is a leetle 
mite different. I'll be here at nine 
o'clock, and I hope Jie will.' 

"So the disappointed men went 
home. 

"The next morning Harry and 
Lena , found' a cool spot in the maple 
grove, and he began his speech. My 
daughter proved an enthusiastic 
listener and clapped in just the right 
places, interrupting him occasionally 
by exclaiming,. 'O Harry, it's a com- 
plete success, I know it is.' 

"They were both too absorbed 
to notice a ' rustling in the under-^ 
growth on one side, and, just as 
Harry was advocating a road around 
the pond, as being more picturesque 
and a shorter route between East 
O. and O. Centre, a terrific bellow- 
ing announced an unwelcome in- 
truder. A neighbor's bull had broken 
boimds and been attracted by Harry's 
eloquence. As the animal crashed 
through the bushes, our orator jumped 
from the stump that had been his 
rostrum, and, calling to Lena to run 
back to the road, fired his carefully 
written speech full into the bull's face. 

"The loose sheets of paper scat- 
tered in all directions, and attracted 
Sir Taurus' attention long enough 
for Harry to get out of sight in the 
grove. A little later he joined Lena 
on the road, just as she was calling 
to a farmer for help. 

"They had a good laugh over the 
second interruption of the speech. 
' First a wild Irishman, then a wild 
creature, ' said Harry. ' Let us hope 
the third time never fails. ' 

"Meanwhile, the nine o'clock train 
had come and gone, leaving no ora- 
tor for the waiting committee. 

' ' ' He was always a powerful- loit- 
erer when he was a shaver,' said Mr. 
White. 'Maybe he will come up on 
the one o'clock train, and calkerlate 



to be a mite late this time. We'll 
see that somebody's here to meet 
him.' So again the committee dis- 
persed. 

"Before the old cannon was fired 
for a noon salute on the green in 
front of the church at East O., 
teams of all descriptions were wend- 
ing their way to that ancient and 
honorable edifice. But Harry and 
Lena had started for the town hall at 
O- Centre, and were driving leisurely 
along the lower road through the 
birches, enjoying the cool-sounding 
rush of mad River as it foamed over 
its rocky bed. 

"'Isn't it queer,' asked Lena once, 
'that the few teams we have met are 
all going in the other direction?' 

' ' ' Yes, unless they think as we 
do, that the longest way round is 
the shortest way home. Besides, we 
started early. I'm bound to be on 
time. Five or six of the fellows have 
bets up that I won't deliver that 
speech, and I'll do it if I die in the 
attempt.' 

"They got to the Centre twenty 
minutes before the hour appointed, 
and each thought the place was 
strangely deserted. It occurred to 
Harry that they might have changed 
the hour for the exercises, as half after 
one o'clock seemed early; but he 
never thought of a change of place. 

"The hall was open, as some acad- 
emy pupils had been practising there ; 
and a good breeze blowing through 
made it a comfortable place to wait 
in. 

"But what of our committee all 
this time? In great anxiety they 
had waited for the one o'clock train. 
On Harry's non-arrival, Parson Hew- 
itt rushed to his study for a copy of 
the 'Declaration of Independence,' 
and Deacon Tucker drove his fast 
mare up to 'second cousin Flint,' to 
see if she knew an3^thing of Harry. 



70 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



Both the postmaster and station 
agent declared it useless, as Miss 
Flint had received neither telegram 
nor letter. 

"However, the deacon went. You 
may imagine his surprise on learning 
that Harry was then in O. Centre ! 

"He put the mare through her paces 
on his way back to the church, re- 
lieving his mind by occasional ejacu- 
lations of 'Jerusalem Crickets!' *0 
Mortal!' or 'Holy Smoke!' and slap- 
ping his broad thighs. 

"At the church, meantime, the 
large congregation had sung 'Amer- 
ica,' aided by the O. Plains brass 
band; a young girl dressed as 
an old woman had recited 'Barbara 
Frietchie'; and the academy chorus 
had sung 'The Flag of the Free.' 
Then Mr. Hewitt explained the non- 
appearance of the orator engaged 
for .the occasion, and proposed to 
read the 'Declaration of Indepen- 
dence.' 

"He had just droned forth, 'When 
in the course of human events it 
becomes necessary,' when Deacon 
Tucker rushed down the broad aisle. 
Without excusing himself to the 
reverend gentleman, he called out: 
'I hope ye' 11 all set still till I can 
fetch ye young Mr. Hall. Ye'll all 
be glad to see the old doctor's son. 
Owing to circumstances over which 
we had no control, nor him, neither, — 
in fact, it looks as if Old Nick him- 
self had played a trick on us, — he's 
a settin' over in the town hall a-wait- 
ing for an aujence, 'nd we're a-settin' 
here a-waitin' for him. You young 
folks jest sing "Hold the Fort" 'nd 
sich, 'nd I'll fetch him soon ez I can.' 
"Harry and Lena waited at the 
hall until half after one o'clock. No 
audience. Then he said, 'Well, Lena, 
I'm going to deliver that speech here 
and now, if there isn't a soul to listen.' 
So he mounted the platform, and 



spoke his 'httle peace,' as Lena 
laughingly called it, while she played 
audience once more. 

"He had almost finished when an 
old white-headed negro shuffled in. 
Lena thought he seemed surprised 
to see them, but he sat down and 
hstened. Finally, an idea disturbed 
him. He stood up and waved his 
cap. 

'"Say, boss!' he called. 'I dunno 
what all dis speechifyin' means, but it 
sounds mighty like 'sif it's what dey's 
all gone to Hast O. to hear. I 
hearn de man didn't come on de 
train las' night, 'nd p'r'aps you-uns 
be he-uns.' 

" ' I am, ' said Harry. 

"'Den, boss, you'll sense an old 
niggah fur ' visin', but you jess bet- 
ter make tracks fur Hast O. 'fore 
dey's all done tired waitin'.' 

"Like the tramp's 'Git' and the 
bull's bellow, this advice started 
poor Harry, with his speech still un- 
finished. They had not gone down- 
stairs before Deacon Tucker appeared, 
profuse in apologies and explana- 
tions. He carried them off to the 
church, where they received a warm 
welcome from the old friends of 
Harry's boyhood. 

"After a little parley the com- 
mittee announced a picnic for the 
next day in 'Purgatory,' to do honor 
to the orator and his necessarilv 
postponed speech. Harry thanked 
them for the honor, and told them 
of his three former attempts to de- 
liver it, and how glad he would be to 
finish it. 

' ' The next morning was clear and 
warm, just the day for a picnic in 
the queer cleft in the hills, with the 
suggestive name, 'Purgatory.' Mad 
River played all sorts of pranks here. 
It ran underground, making 'bottom- 
less pools' and over huge boulders, 
forming 'crystal cascades,' and whirled 



The Professor's Story. 



71 



around in its rocky bed, forming 
'boiling pots' in profusion. 

"Up and down the dell, climbing 
here and there, exploring caves in 
the opposite bank, telling stories of 
Indian times, of fights and massa- 
cres and hiding, the young people 
of the party whiled away the time 
until luncheon. A large company had 
gathered, by this time, and Harry 
congratulated himself on the prospect 
of such an audience. 

"They were in a grove of well- 
scattered trees, making comfortable 
shade, but avoiding dampness. Higher 
up on one side was a large, queer- 
shaped rock, called 'Devil's Pulpit,' 
from which Harry was to address his 
friends. 

' ' After the bountiful feast had been 
eaten and numerous toasts drunk in 
the hot coffee, the matrons washed 
the dishes in the 'boiling pots,' the 
maids wiped them dry, and the young 
men packed them for the return trip, 
and fed their horses. Then, with 
an eminently comfortable feeling, 
they ranged themselves to hear their 
young orator. 

"Deacon Tucker had ahvays 'a 
w*eather eye ' ; and this time he had 
it wide open. As 'America' was 
being sung, he slipped away, and 
came back in a few minutes to whisper 
solemnly to the postmaster, 'I'm 
durned if it don't look as if that 
young chap wouldn't finish his speech 
this time, either. There's a thunder- 
storm on the way, and it'll be here 
powerful soon.' 

' ' ' Pshaw ! don't say anything about 
it till it thunders, anyhow,' returned 
the postmaster. 

"So Harry began. The happy al- 
lusions to his childhood in East O., 
the duties of citizenship to these glo- 
rious United States, the education 



of our youth in patriotism, were all 
gone over. Then the announcement 
of his theme; the natural beauties 
of the place, the facilities for manu- 
facturing, the attractions for settling, 
were all brought out. 

"Meanwhile the air grew more 
sultry, the breeze died down, the 
sky grew darker and darker, then 
the thunder pealed as the lightning 
flashed. Harry's audience were un- 
easy. He closed his discourse in 
short order, and they all hurried for 
the horse-sheds above, as being safer 
than the river-bed. 

"The rain poured in torrents. The 
lightning was vivid, succeeded by 
intense darkness. Three ^ times the 
electric fluid struck in 'Purgatory,' 
disagreeably affecting many of the 
people huddled in their teams under 
the shed. 

"They were prisoners four long 
hours, before any one dared to go 
home. Then by twos and threes they 
drove off. 

"'It's a great shame, Harry, that 
you couldn't finish your speech,' 
called out the deacon at parting; 
'but we'll print every word of it as 
soon as you send it, and we'll do every- 
thing you advised.' 

"They did. By the next summer 
there was a good road around the 
pond. The ubiquitous summer 
boarder had appeared, in answer to 
advertisements, and was fishing for 
pickerel. The postmaster's custom 
was doubled. O. Plains started the 
hosiery mill Harry had proposed, and 
altogether they look upon him as a 
public benefactor. 

"He has received a proposition 
from O. Centre to settle there, when 
he graduates from the dental college; 
and, as Lena likes the place, they 
will begin married life there." 



Some Notions on Cookery 



By a Mere Man 



SOME day I may commit the 
heresy of expressing various 
uncompHmentary opinions about 
cookery books in general, and, if I 
dare, certain cookery books in par- 
ticular. At present, however, since 
it is always well to begin with con- 
structive rather than destructive work, 
I offer a few suggestions on single bits 
of a large subject. The excuse for 
venturing into the especial domain of 
woman, and with advice, is that the 
books (and they are written by women 
for the most part) do not seem to con- 
tain these few small hints. 

The recipes for Welsh rabbit are 
more or less varied and good, allow- 
ing full scope to those who must put 
alcohol into everything and to those 
who won't put it into anything; but 
how many recipes do you ever see 
that do not include toast served with 
it or under it? Perhaps you will say 
that it would not be Welsh rabbit 
without toast, and it may be that you 
would be right. Nevertheless, when 
you don't care whether it is Welsh 
rabbit or not, when the traditions do 
not appeal to you so strongly as your 
desire for a dish that is new, try serv- 
ing it on hot, mashed, white potato 
instead. I make no suggestions as 
to possible gamishings or attractive 
methods of arrangement. There are 
limits even to the male audacity, and 
the form may well be left to the ladies. 
I have heard it said, when an endeavor 
was made to serve this dish prettily, 
''Now what did you do that for?" 
and then a fork would stir hot cheese 
and potato into one mass. This latter 
course is recommended only for the 
privacy of one's own home, but it 
tastes good. There are reasons for 



this combination, too. Potato is 
highly starchy, and makes a miore 
palatable dish with cheese, for many 
appetites, than the more highly ni- 
trogenous bread. The cheese, con- 
tains sujRFicient nitrogen and fat for 
any dish. This variation, which, so 
far as I know, is my own invention, 
I call Boston rabbit. 

Now for something slightly differ- 
ent. You will find in the authorities 
directions somewhat as follows: for 
removing broiled fish from the broiler, 
"Separate from the broiler on both 
sides carefully with a buttered knife, 
and transfer to the serving-dish." 
Do you always find this easy to do 
with tender- fleshed fish? If not, try 
using an ordinary, broad, four-pronged 
fork. Press it down upon the fish 
in such position on the outside of the 
broiler that two prongs will lie on 
each side of a single wire of the broiler, 
and as far away from yourself as 
possible. Then draw the fork toward 
you with a gentle pressure. This 
will disengage the fish from the wire 
for the width of the prongs on each 
side of the wire, and, also, their length 
will be sufficient to prevent the fish 
from tearing up in small particles. 
It seems scarcely necessary to add 
that it is the back of the fork that 
should be pressed down upon the fish, 
or that a narrower utensil than one 
of four prongs will not be as satis- 
factory. The broiler shoyld be oiled 
before using, as in all cases. 

Then, again, almost all the recipes 
for scrambled eggs begin with direc- 
tions for melting a little butter in the 
dish, or otherwise greasing it. If 
great care is not exercised, this will 
get unduly hot, being but a thin layer 



Some Notions on Cookery 



73 



or mere film, and the discriminating 
palate wiU notice the flavor of cooked 
or dissociated fat, — not a pleasant 
addition. The butter should be added 
at almost the last moment, and in 
small bits, that it may quickly melt 
and be thoroughly stirred into the 
eggs without cooking. The butter, 
usually put first into the pan, is not 
needed to prevent the eggs from stick- 
ing to the dish. Try a very few spoon- 
fuls of milk, just enough to make a thin 
film over the bottom of the pan, and 
follow this with the eggs. It is suffi- 
cient. Above all, cook slowly. Of 
recent years it has been published 
far and wide that eggs should not be 
cooked at a high temperature, whether 
boiled or cooked otherwise; but this 
knowledge seems to be forgotten only 
too often, when it comes to scrambling 
eggs. The very name begets haste, 
but it is the haste of unwisdom. Nor 
is it necessary, with slow cooking at a 
low temperature, to "stir constantly." 
It will suffice, if enough be done to 
make the dish one of scrambled eggs 
and not a pseudo-omelet. Such salt 
as you wish for seasoning dissolve in 
the small quantity of milk before 
turning it into the pan. Lastly, 
unless you wish a homogeneous mush 
of lemon-yellow color, don't follow 
the frequent advice to beat the eggs 
before putting them on to cook. 
Break them into a bowl, stir with a 
fork just enough to break fairly the 
yolks, and then turn into the pan. 
If you use discretion about stirring 
them after you get them there, the 
result will be a dish of the proper 
consistency, and of a delightful yel- 
low, flecked with spots of orange-red 
and white that add greatly to the 
final appearance. These points may 
seem finical. It is by the constant 
observance of them that the lady who 
taught me how to do it has made the 
phrase, "As good as 's scrambled 



eggs," almost proverbial among her 
friends and neighbors. 

In the paragraph next above I 
referred to the well-known fact 
that eggs should always be cooked 
at a comparatively low temperature. 
Many directions have appeared for 
cooking them by immersion in water, 
substitutes for boiling. These are 
usually simple and satisfactory ; but 
again and again I have found indi- 
viduals who have been troubled to 
obtain desired results with some of 
the simplest of them. For such I 
offer still another method. Take a 
double boiler. Fill the outer pan to a 
depth that will bring the water well 
up around the inner pan, when the 
water boils. Fill the inner pan with 
water to a depth sufficient to cover 
fully the eggs. Place over a source 
of heat. When the water in the 
outer pan boils, place the eggs in the 
inner boiler. The water will be at 
a temperature of about i6o degrees 
when the eggs are put in. Cook long 
enough to attain the desired consist- 
ency. This will vary with the num- 
ber of eggs cooked at one time and 
the consistency required. As a slight 
guide, for one or two eggs it will take 
about six and a half minutes to reach 
the stage attained by three and one 
quarter minutes of boiling. If the 
cooking be carried on indefinitely, 
the temperature of the water in the 
inner boiler will rise above the point 
theoretically best for cooking eggs. 
This method will give satisfaction in 
most cases, however, and is more 
exact than the directions to "take 
so much boiling water for each egg, 
then set on the back of the stove," etc. 
The temperature on the back of the 
stove depends so greatly on the 
amount of fire. It may be quite 
warm or almost stone-cold. It is 
safer, in such cases, to set the dish on 
a table, or other stand, upon a few 



74 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



thicknesses of newspaper. The con- 
ditions will then be more nearly alike 
each time. Also, the time will vary 
with the size of the eggs, and whether 
they be taken from an ice-box or a 



warmer receptacle. Merely remem- 
ber, as in any other scientific experi- 
ment, that a repetition of all the con- 
ditions will produce an invariable 
result. 



Suggestions on the Selection and Prep- 
aration of Dietaries 

By Adolphe Meyer, Chef of Union Club 



ALMOST any one with ordinary 
common sense may be intrusted 
to buy the necessities of life for 
the household. Often enough the 
order is merely given to the dealer, 
and it is left to his or their good 
judgment to send to the house what- 
ever they may consider fit or suitable. 
It is quite a different matter, though, 
to buy for an institution, where a 
certain number of people are to be 
supplied daily with several meals. As 
in every other walk of life, it needs 
long practice and experience here to at- 
tain proficiency. To be able to judge 
an apparent bargain or the quality of 
the provisions is not alone sufficient 
qualification. Though the old saying, 
that "the best will always be found 
the cheapest at the end," is true, there 
are other objects of no less importance 
to be kept in view. We know that 
both the expenditure of nerve power 
for the digestion of food and the ca- 
pacity of the stomach itself vary with 
the age as well as with the health of 
the individual. It is, therefore, ab- 
solutely essential to make inquiries 
as for whom the victuals are to be 
provided. 

Another important factor is that 
of climatic conditions. The large 
amount of animal food that was nec- 
essary in winter to keep up bodily 
warmth would prove oppressive in 



summer. Hot weather diet should be 
Hght, and the articles of easy diges- 
tion. In place of meats, fish, cereals, 
green vegetables, and fruit should be 
substituted to a great extent. 

Of late years much thought and 
study has been given to food values 
and their relation to the human sys- 
tem. Such studies are especially rec- 
ommended to the buyer, who also has 
charge of the bill of fare, as the proper 
division of food values is sure in time 
to show its good or ill effect. 

It would hardly do to give to a 
party of children a dinner consisting 
of pea soup, roast beef, macaroni with 
cheese, potatoes, pudding and milk, 
as the proteids are too abundant, and 
the muscular exertion of the child 
is not great enough for so compara- 
tively heavy a meal. On the other 
hand, if for the roast beef be substi- 
tuted fish, for the macaroni, a green 
vegetable, and for the pudding, fruit, 
the dinner will do admirably for 
children. 

Insufficient nourishment is equiva- 
lent to the ruining of a child's health, 
and, as intellectual development 
largely depends on bodily strength, 
too much care cannot be given to a 
child's diet. 

The first nourishment of the new- 
bom babe is milk, and, for the first 
few months of life, it depends entirely 



The Selection and Preparation of Dietaries 



IS 



on this most valuable article of diet. 
As the child grows older, a little more 
variety may be brought into the bill 
of fare, but, until the teeth can mas- 
ticate well and the little stomach has 
gained enough strength to digest, only 
such foods as are of easy digestion 
should be given. 

A child from four to six years of 
age, who has all its teeth, can partake 
of nearly everything that is cooked 
for adults. It is, in fact, well that 
the child should become used to vari- 
ety, though salty or overspiced and 
fatty meats should be avoided. 

Meals should be given at regular 
hours, and no sweetmeats or candies 
be allowed between times, as these 
are liable to lay the foundation for 
future indigestion or bilious com- 
plaints. 

The average daily ration of a child 
from six to ten years of age is ten 
ounces of bread, two ounces of butter, 
five ounces of lean meat, eight ounces 
of green vegetables, vSix ounces of 
eggs, cereals,, or farinaceous food, four 
ounces of raw or preserved fruit, and 
one quart of liquid food, including 
milk and water. 

The older the child, the more nour- 
ishment the body requires, as a mat- 
ter of course. The rations should be 
gradually increased, so that a child 
from ten to fourteen years will re- 
ceive sixteen ounces of bread, three 
ounces of butter, eight ounces of lean 
meats (or three ounces of eggs or 
its equivalent), twelve ounces of 
green vegetables, eight ounces of raw 
or cooked fruit, and about three pints 
of liquids. 

In cool weather the meat may be 
increased, and in hot weather the 
liquids. It is far better for children 
to abstain from coffee or tea. Milk, 
or a light preparation of cocoa or 
chocolate, is to be recommended. 

Hot bread or cake, unripe fruit, 



strong spices, and fatty substances 
cannot be condemned too strongly 
as injurious to children. 

The morning meal should consist 
of either milk, cocoa, or chocolate, 
bread and butter, an ^<gg, or some 
cereal. The dinner or mid-day meal 
should be more substantial. A soup, 
followed by meat or fish, and vege- 
tables, and some dessert are suffi- 
cient. 

Supper should be served at least 
two hours before retiring. Some ce- 
real, or a pudding made of rice, farina, 
or some other farinaceous substance, 
and a dish of fruit are ample to sat- 
isfy the child's hunger. A cup of 
milk will be the best liquid with which 
to quench the thirst. 

The preparation of food in institu- 
tions needs careful supervision, as, 
otherwise, the best efforts of the buyer 
are often made void through the ig- 
norance or negligence of the cook. 

A common deficiency of the aver- 
age cook is in the seasoning and flavor- 
ing, — either too much or not enough. 
It would be well for every cook ta 
keep in mind what Dr. Mary E. 
Smith said about spices: "They 
should permeate foods as incense 
does the atmosphere, delicate, im- 
palpable, and as indescribable as they 
are requisite," 

vSpices, if used judiciously, will trans- 
form an ordinary stew into savory 
morsels. But that is not all: they 
will, also, help to replace the rich stocks 
and gravies used in high-class cookery, 
and will aid digestion by their action 
on both the saliva and gastric juices. 

With proper seasoning and flavor- 
ing and with food properly prepared 
the cook can economize more than the 
buyer. 

Much good has been done in this 
direction by our cooking schools, and 
right here is their real domain of 
public usefulness. 



The Wood Lot 

Forestry on the Farm or Small Estate 



By Mary Lathrop Tucker 

THE production of wood by One thing is certain, 

the cultivation of forests or 
trees in mass is called forestry, 
in distinction from arboriculture or 
tree culture as practised in landscape 
gardening or fruit growing. Forestry 
aims not at producing the finest in- 
dividual trees as trees, but at manag- 
ing masses of trees through their re- 
action upon one another and upon the 
soil in which they grow, so as to raise 
the largest quantity of the best wood 
on a given piece of land in the shortest 
possible time, while providing for con- 
tinuous production and reproduction. 
In older countries, the cultivation of 
wood has long been carried on quite 
as systematically as that of any other 
crop, while here we have been able 
thus far to depend almost wholly upon 
the natural product. But we are now 
confronted by conditions that will soon 
compel us to cultivate woodlands or 
to buy timber of other countries more 
provident than ourselves, for nearly 
all our best forests are gone, and we 
cannot wait for nature to grow more. 
And we need not wait, since man can 
raise more and better timber in from 
fifty to a hundred years than might 
grow wild after a thousand. For to 
every sound, well-developed, mature 
timber tree in a natural forest there 
usually many poor and many 



are 

wholly worthless ones. If, then, we 
can in a century, or much less, accord- 
ing to species, produce mature forests 
where every tree shall be a good tree, 
and can manage these forests so that 
they shall reproduce themselves while 
furnishing a perpetual supply of wood, 
why should we be content with any- 
thing less? 



Our wood 
supply cannot be replenished and made 
constant without an immediate and 
general effort by land-owners all over 
the country to treat existing wood- 
lands b}^ rational methods and to make 
new plantations. The national govern- 
ment and a number of State govern-* 
ments have already made beginnings. 
Some forestry schools have been es- 
tablished and other provisions made 
for educative work; and many pri- 
vate owners of large forest tracts, in- 
cluding even some lumber companies, 
are employing trained foresters, in 
order to do their cutting with an eye 
to the future. But farmers and other 
small owners are apt to feel that 
forestry methods are too complicated 
and their returns too slow for practical 
application to the small w^ood lot. 
But the fact really is that the essential 
principles underlying true forestry are 
so simple, sensible, and easily applied 
that any one, who can raise other crops, 
will find not only substantial profit, 
but keen interest and pleasure in cul- 
tivating wood by common-sense meth- 
ods. And one may do as much or 
little as he choose. The most elemen- 
tary application of the foundation 
principles will result in improved con- 
ditions, while every step in advance 
means added improvements. Most 
farms have considerable waste land or 
barren pasture unprofitable for any 
crop but wood. The land, therefore, 
costs practically nothing, and an^^hing 
raised upon it is so much clear gain. 
Moreover, trees in forest do not ex- 
haust, but enrich the soil, so that no 
rotation is required, and the same 
tract may be kept in forest forever; 



Forestry on the Farm or Small Estate 



77 



or, if again used for agriculture, the 
soil will be in prime condition. 

In raising timber, the foundation 
principles are close planting, thinning, 
pruning, and reproduction. Planting 
may be done from seed or with trans- 
planted seedlings. Close planting is 
necessar}' to secure tall straight trunks, 
free from knots. A tree, coming up in 
the open, branches near the ground. 
But, when trees are crowded close, the 
lower branches soon die and the nour- 
ishment, that would have gone to them, 
now feeds the trunk, forcing it up- 
ward and making it both tall and 
large. On some species, however, 
especially white pine, these dead 
branches remain many years, while 
the new wood grows out around them, 
thus making dead knots set in a con- 
stantly deepening hole. All super- 
fluous branches, therefore, should be 
removed as soon as they die, if not 
before. It is important to prune off 
the branches close to and perfectly 
even with the trunks, as then the bark 
will soon close smoothly over the 
wound, leaving only a small knot near 
the heart of the tree. Close planting 
also kills out the poorer, weaker trees 
by natural thinning ; but in this proc- 
ess, as in natural pruning, man must 
from time to time lend a hand, help- 
ing to thin out the poorer trees, and 
removing everything that can interfere 
with the development of the best. 

These same principles underlie the 
treatment of old uncared-for wood- 
land. Suppose a farmer wishes to 
improve his wood lot while, at the 
same time, obtaining from it the wood 
for fences, posts, firewood, and other 
farm uses. First, he must not, as is 
often done, select constantly the best 
trees for cutting, since in this way the 
qualit}^ of his land will gradually de- 
teriorate, until nothing is left but the 
poorest trees of the poorest kinds. 
Let him rather cull out the weak trees 



and poor kinds as fast as no longer 
needed by others for protection or 
support. Thin places thus left should, 
then, be planted with valuable kinds, 
unless natural reproduction takes place 
from the seed trees, which should 
always be left standing in sufficient 
numbers. In this way poor trees will 
gradually be replaced by good ones, 
and with proper thinning and pruning 
the wood lot will increase in value 
every year. Cattle or sheep should 
never be allowed in woodland, as they 
harden the soil by tramping and de- 
stroy the seedlings and injure the trees. 
As fast as trees mature or attain any 
desired size, they should be harvested 
with the least possible injury to those 
left standing and their places thickly 
planted. It should be remembered 
that, usually, for construction timber, 
the larger the tree, the more profit- 
able. 

vSome farmers have already managed 
their woodland on common-sense prin- 
ciples long enough to prove that it 
pays. For combined simplicity and 
effectiveness the operations of the late 
Mr. Fred A. Cutter, of Pelham, N.H., 
furnish a good example of successful 
farm forestry. His methods require 
no long training nor even much experi- 
ence. Any farmer could profitably 
put them into immediate practice. 
Mr. Cutter worked chiefly with white 
pine, justly called the king of trees for 
New England cultivation. This wood 
is always in demand, and our supply is 
nearly exhausted. , It grows rapidly, 
and adapts itself to nearly every soil 
and location, springing up readily 
where nothing else of value can be 
raised. Mr. Cutter's woodland is part 
of ninety acres taken up by his grand- 
father in 1792. It was then covered 
with a heavy growth of oak with a few 
stray white pines. About 1816 this 
timber was all blown down in a gale. 
Seventy 3'ears ago Mr. Cutter's father 



?: 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



moved from Massachusetts back to 
his native home, where he put up a 
large set of buildings, for which he had 
to buy the timber, as there was no 
pine on the place, except a few trees 
mixed with the oak grown up since 
the blow-down. This oak was cut 
down, and from those scattering pines 
a tract of forty acres was thickly 
seeded, nearly allof which has been 
thinned and pruned. About fifty- 
three years ago they began pruning 
about an acre a year, doing the work 
at odd times, on rainy days, and in 
the late fall and winter. ( Pines should 
not be pruned in spring or early sum- 
mer.) From this forty acres the tim- 
ber already cut has netted more than 
ten thousand dollars clear profit, and 
about two thousand dollars' worth 
remain, which is increasing in value 
every year. The best timber, cut 
about eight years ago, brought $150 
to $200 the acre standing. On one 
lot containing trees fifty-five years 
old, seven-eighths of the trees made 
logs sixty-four feet long, the timber 
completely free from knots outside a 
small space near the heart, where the 
little branches had been pruned off. 
Many of the trees sawed one thousand 
feet and upward of clear timber. The 
ground cut over has again thickly 
seeded in from the trees left standing. 
A wood crop may be harvested by 
thus clearing the ground at once or 
by cutting out trees as fast as they 
mature, as suggested for the wood lot 
considered above, followed in either 
case by immediate reseeding or plant- 
ing. Each method has its advan- 
tages. Mr. Cutter thinned and pruned 
but twice, first when the trees were 
fifteen or twenty feet high, cutting out 
the poorest and w^eakest, and pruning 
within reach from the ground or as 
far up as there were dead branches. 
The second time, ten or fifteen years 
later, only the dead or dying trees 



were removed, and the pruning was 
done from a ladder. Mr. Cutter es- 
timated that the first thinning and 
pruning cost, if done by hired labor, 
about five dollars per acre, and that 
the second pays for itself in wood 
taken out. So all made over five 
dollars an acre is clear gain. Earlier 
and more frequent thinning would 
probably yield still larger returns. 
Professor Gifford, of the New York 
State Forestry School, says: "The fact 
that it often requires a century to 
produce a fine grade of timber does 
not imply that a forest, when planted, 
yields nothing until maturity. A 
spruce forest at first ma}^ consist of 
thousands of little trees per acre. At 
the end of ten years it should contain 
not more than 4,000 trees; at the end 
of twenty years, 2,000; at the end of 
forty years, 1,000; at the end of sixty 
years, 500 ; at the end of eighty years, 
350; and at maturity (one hundred 
years), 250. Thus in ninet}^ years 
fifteen-sixteenths of the number of 
trees and a large volume of wood have 
been removed from time to time by a 
careful system of thinning, yielding 
material of ever-increasing value as 
the forest grows older." White pine 
and many other trees grow faster than 
spruce, so that the various returns 
from their cultivation would come 
in correspondingly sooner. Land in 
forest is, therefore, not withdrawn 
from present service, and, as plenty 
of land suitable for trees can be bought 
for three to five dollars an acre — is, in 
fact, often sold for taxes — -timber 
raising makes a good investment. 
From the day of planting the land 
can be sold for more than its cost un- 
improved, a large amount of increas- 
ingly valuable wood is furnished from 
time to time, and at the end of fifty ^ 
years a crop of white pine will yield 
4^ per cent, to 6 per cent., or more 
with longer time. The great advan- 



Original Proverbs of the Hour 79 

tage of tree culture on a farm is that The chief risk in forest cultivation, 

trees grow, silently rolling up the almost the only one, in the case of 

profits, not only while the farmer white pine, is from fire; but, when 

is sleeping, but while he is doing and land-owners generally are raising 

earning quite as much in other lines, high-priced timber, public sentiment 

since planting, thinning, and pruning will demand more stringent laws for 

can be got in at odd times that hardly the prevention of forest fires and will 

count at all. see that they are executed. 



Original Proverbs of the Hour 

By Agnes Deans Cameron 

It isn't the long spear, but the steadiest that impales the big salmon. 

A little devil devilleth the whole dump. 
"'Every man has his price, every woman her caprice. 

All's well that mends well. 

All the world's a stage; and, for the most part, it's a bumpy road it travels 
over. 

^ If you call a m^ "a vulgar fraction," he gets mad. Tell him he is a pure 
circulating decimal, and he beams all over. 
\^Jl archer is known by his game, not by his arrows. 

An honest lawyer is the scarcest work of God. 

The cow^ with the short temper shouldn't have long horns. 

"A custom more honored in the breach than in the observance, " — a mother's 
patch on her boy's trousers. 

Thirsty men catch at straws. 

He who fools with dynamite is soon parted. 

Our relatives we inherit; but, thank God, our friends we find ourselves. 

Misery loves company; but rational company doesn't hanker after misery. 

It's a poor story that ends two ways. 

It's a rare coat that has no turning. 

Those who sit in play houses shouldn't throw vegetables. 

The Bobby catches those who help themselves. 

It is easier for a camel to get into heaven than for a shabby man to catch 
the eye of the beadle. 

A bird on the plate is worth three on your bonnet. 

What is love without another? 

Those who love in glass houses are apt to be kodaked. 

God help the man who can't help himself these days. 

A lie nailed in time saves nine. 



;o 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



THE BOSTON COOKING- 
SCHOOL MAGAZINE 

OF 

Culinary Science and Domestic Economics. 
Janet McKenzie Hill, Editor, 

PUBLISHED TEN TIMES A YEAR. 

* 

Official Journal of the Boston Cook- 
ing-School. 

Publication Office : 
372 BuYLSTON Street, Boston, Mass. 

Subscription, ^i.oo per Year. Single Copies, ioc. 
Advertising Rates furnished on Application. 

TO SUBSCRIBERS 

The Boston Cooking-School Magazine is sent 
until ordered discontinued, and arrearages 
are paid. 

The date stamped on the wrapper is the 
date on which your subscription expires : it 
is, also, an acknowledgment that a subscrip- 
tion, or a renewal of the same, has been re- 
ceived. 

Please renew on receipt of the colored 
blank enclosed for this purpose. 

When sending notice to renew subscription 
or change address, please give the old address 
as well as the tiew. 

In referring to an original entry, we must 
know the name as it was formerly given, to- 
gether with the Post-office, County, State, 
Post-office Box, or Street Number. 

Entered at Boston Post-office as second-class matter. 

ANNOUNCEMENT 

IN accordance with the advertise- 
ment on another page the prop- 
erty and management of the 
Boston Cooking School v^ere trans- 
ferred to Simmons College at the close 
of the last school year. This convey- 
ance is most natural, fitting, and 
timely. 

In past years the Boston Cooking 
School has done a great work, and 
become more widely known than any 
school of like character in the land. 
It has, however, ever been depend- 
ent upon its own resources; that is, 
it has been entirely self-supporting, 



and hence without the requisite funds 
to carry on properly the work of in- 
struction and provide a permanent 
home,— items essential to successful 
expansion and growth. In fact, in 
more recent years the school has 
quite outgrown its resources and en- 
vironments. All these wants the new 
institution, Sim^mons College, is amply 
able to supply, as well as to enlarge 
and enrich the courses of instruction. 

For two or three years the school 
will continue to occupy its old quar- 
ters on Boylston Street, but under 
new management, while spacious and 
modern buildings are in process of 
construction for the college on its 
fine location in the Back Bay District 
of the city. 

We are certain the many graduates 
and friends of the old and famous 
Boston Cooking School, now scat- 
tered far and wide, will be greatly 
pleased to learn that the school has 
been enabled to make so propitious 
and desirable an alliance, — one that 
insiires the successful continuation 
and enlargement of a most important 
educational work, so wisely planned in 
the beginning and so ably conducted, 
thus far, to noble results. 

ONCE FOR ALL 

AT this time we wish to avail 
ourselves of the opportunity to 
state explicitly to our readers 
and patrons that the status of this 
magazine is in no wise affected by the 
transference noted above. The Cook- 
ing School and the Magazine have 
always been under distinct and sepa- 
rate management, and this condition 
is not now changed. In consequence, 
however, of the new departure on the 
part of the school, we anticipate and 
confidently trust that our field of 
effort and usefidness will be greatly 
enlarged. 



Editorials 



8i 



With rare exception the Cooking 
School-Magazine has become the one 
distinctive and exclusive culinary 
publication in this country, and pre- 
eminence here we aim to maintain. 

We even venture the claim that the 
kitchen is the most important factor 
in the household, and no amount of 
evasion can conceal the truth. In 
keeping with the latest thought in 
domestic science, the externals of 
home life are said to be well advanced, 
while the consideration of internal, 
personal well-being has been long 
neglected, or left to chance, instinct, 
or caprice. • 

•It is the aspiration of this Magazine 
to be steadfastly suggestive of aid and 
comfort in all that pertains to the 
practical conduct of home life, and to 
this end we desire to reach the homes 
throughout the length and breadth 
of the land. 

THEORY AND PRACTICE 

DOMESTIC science is of prac- 
tical import by nature. The 
demand for skilled cooks and 
trained housekeepers is urgent and 
constant, and the supply is in no wise 
equal to the demand. The pro- 
ficient cook or the efficient manager 
of culinary affairs cannot be had for 
the asking. 

It is well known that the cuisine 
in many, yea, most, large schools 
and colleges, and even in famous 
hospitals, is sadly unsatisfactory, and 
almost culpably faulty. The cause 
is the scarcity of intelligent trained 
domestics. On the other hand, there 
is no dearth of theorists, — of those 
who are ready and willing to teach 
the science of cookery; but the call 
for teachers in this line is neither 
frequent nor steadfast. In fact, sci- 
entific housekeeping, in theoretical 
doses, is not wanted, while the gener- 
ous practical application of the same 



is everywhere greatly longed for. The 
subject itself, by its very nature, calls 
for deeds, not words, action, and not 
precept. 

If we mistake not, our schools err 
in trying to teach merely the theory 
of domestic science. To-day the tech- 
nical schools are crowded and popular, 
because the graduates of these schools 
are prepared to lend a hand in the 
actual processes of ^building, mining, 
engineering, etc. Are not schools of 
housekeeping purely technical in char- 
acter? Rather should they not be? 

But is it not true that women find 
it difficult to face the consideration 
of the fact that successful housework 
requires manual labor as well as mental 
effort, that a disciplined mand must 
guide the trained hands? To know 
the science of housekeeping, in all 
its phases, is well. It were far better 
to know how to feed people properly, 
and thus minister to higher wants, — 
in a word, to answer, in the spirit of 
the age, the prayer of the ancient seer : 
"Feed me with food convenient for 
me, lest I be full," etc., "or lest I be 
poor," etc. On theory and method, 
alone, people will starve. The pres- 
entation of wholesome, inviting food 
is the climax of domestic art. 



IN CONTRAST 

THE delegation of Germans 
sent to this country to study 
American agricultural meth- 
ods have made a seven weeks' tour of 
the land. What seems to have im- 
pressed itself most on the mind of one 
of them, a student at Berlin Univer- 
sity, is the lack of beer-drinking in the 
American colleges and Universities. 
He is reported to have said : " I like 
your American universities very much. 
They are well put together. But 
there is one thing that they miss, and 
that is beer. The student here can't 



82 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



have the enthusiasm we have in our 
German schools by drinking water. 
It is beer that inspires them." 

We have thought so. And it is 
just this self-satisfied and domineering 
iDearing, inspired by beer, that fails 
to please us. It is not in harmony 
with American ideals. We sincerely 
hope this sort of inspiration may 
never pervade American schools and 
colleges. It begets distrust and in- 
stabihty of character. Much beer 
and low morals are inseparable. With 
nutritious food, and enough of it, 
the desire of turbid and stimulating 
beverages is wa;jting. Is there any- 
thing really aesthetic or uplifting in 
beer-drinking ? 

Apropos to this. Professor Shaler, 
who has taught no fewer than 8,000 
graduates of Harvard, in the recent 
meeting of alumni said: "The pupils 
of to-day are better morally than 
their fathers or their grandfathers. 
We have less fault to find with them. 
Drunkenness has practically disap- 
peared. I haven't had a case the 
past year in my bailiwick of 600 men. 
I have had but one case in five years. 
Gambling has been unheard of for 
more than a decade. For behavior 
our men of to-day are better than 
those of any other day I have known." 

This statement — emanating, too, 
from Harvard University — is encour- 
aging. That our American schools of 
learning, in this one respect, at least, 
may never imitate the foreign, is a 
"consummation devoutly to be 
wished." In school management the 
relation of food and feeding to intem- 
perance is unwisely neglected. 



month of July, has had almost a 
surfeit of good things. A marked 
feature of all these meetings and ex- 
hibitions of handiwork was the mani- 
fest tendency of the day to empha- 
size the practical or useful side of 
education. It is applied knowledge, 
science, and training that are consid- 
ered absolutely essential to meet the 
requirements of the present age. 
Men and women and races, respec- 
tively, must work out their own sal- 
vation. And, after all, what is the 
end and aim of all education, unless 
it be to make good and useful men 
and women? • 

NEXT in order comes the 
celebration of Old Home 
Week in the New England 
States. Whatever tends to concen- 
trate the attention of large numbers 
upon home life is making for the very 
best in civilization. "Home" and 
"native land" are words that grow 
doubly dear in the land of free schools 
and free libraries. Improved homes 
and peaceful pursuits are the distinct- 
ive characteristics of ages called 
golden. 

A woman's nature will never be 
changed. Men might spin and churn 
and knit and sew and cook and rock 
the cradle for a hundred generations, 
and not be women. And women will 
not become men by external occu- 
pations. God's colors do not wash 
out. — H. W . Beecher. 



WHAT with the grand as- 
sembling of the National 
Educational Association, 
the Ij^ake Placid Conference, the Emer- 
son Memorial, etc., Boston, in the 



As a man is known by his company, 
so a man's company may be known 
by the manner of expressing him- 
self. — Swift. 

A m_an is ' relieved and gay when, 
he has put his heart in his work and 
done his best. — Emerson. 





,)* 



-1 ~ 7: ' «. ,SJ;ilr. 



e. ff'Z.^i^^uj 



:h Ice Bowl, Perforated 



Seasonable Recipes 



IN all recipes where flour is used, unless otherwise stated, the flour is measured after sifting, 
once. When flour is measured by cups, the cup is filled with a spoon, and a level cupful is 
meant. A tablespoonful or a teaspoonful of any designated material is a level spoonful of such 
material. 

two fillets, thus removing the bones. 
If the sardines be too moist to handle 
without injuring the shape of the 
fillets, leave them whole. Dispose 
a layer of thin-sliced onion in a dish. 
Upon these place a layer of the fillets,, 
and cover with slices of onion. Add 
a layer of fillets and onion, alternately, 
until all are used. Pour over the 
whole a French dressing, using one 
tablespoonful of lemon juice to four 
of oil, and set aside in a cool place. 
When ready to use, arrange each fillet, 
carefully drained, upon a heart leaf 
of lettuce, in one of the compartments 
of an Italian hors d'cEuvre dish. 

Olives Stuffed with Anchovies 
Select large choice olives. Re- 
move the stones with a cutter de- 
signed for the purpose, or with a 



Deviled Crackers 
Mix two teaspoonfuls of mustard 
to a paste with Worcestershire sauce, 
adding also a few drops of tabasco 
sauce. Stir the paste into two or 
three tablespoonfuls of butter, beaten 
to a cream with a few grains of cayenne. 
Spread the mixture on the upper side 
of thin crackers, — saltines are a good 
variety for this purpose, — and set 
into a hot oven to become nicely 
toasted. Serve hot with cheese and 
celery or olives. For deviled crackers 
a la Indienne use equal portions of 
mustard and curry powder. 

Fillets of Sardines for Hors 

d'CEuvre 

Wipe the sardines with a soft cloth 

to rid them of oil. Scrape off the 

skin and separate each sardine into 



84 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



sharp penknife cut the ohves in a 
spiral. Fill the centre of each with 
prepared anchovies. If the anchovies 
were put up in brine, drain, and let 




Barnard College Girls' Cheese 

Omelet 
Beat the yolks of two eggs until 
light-colored and thick. Add six 
level tablespoonfuls of 
grated cheese, a dash of 
salt and pepper, and, 
gradually, one cup of milk. 
Fold in the whites of 
two eggs, beaten dry. 
and bake in a buttered 
serving -dish or custard 
cups. Serve with toast or 
wafers. 



Hors d'Giuvre, Italian Service 
Radishes with Leaves Fillets of Sardines Pulled Bread 



stand two hours in cold water and 
milk. Take out the backbone, wipe 
dry on a cloth, then pound in a mor- 
tar with a few drops of onion juice, a 
little parsley, and a few grains of 
cayenne or paprika. 

Potatoes Stewed with Bacon 
This dish is a success only when 
tender bacon is used. Cut the sliced 
bacon into tiny squares, and cook 
in a frying-pan un- 
til slightly colored. 
Drain, and stir into 
a dish of potatoes 
stewed in cream. 
To prepare the po- 
atoes, cut pared po- 
tatoes into small 
cubes. Boil these 
in salted water 
until tender, then 
-drain carefully. 
Add, for a pint of 
potatoes, two table - 
spoonfuls of butter, 
a dash of salt, and 
enough thin cream to cover nearly. 
Let simmer about five minutes before 
adding: the bacon. 



Columbia College 
Omelet 
Stir two level tablespoon- 
fuls of cornstarch, diluted 
with cold water to pour, into one 
cup of boiling water, and let cook 
ten minutes. Add a dash of salt 
and pepper and a cup of milk, and 
pour onto the yolks of three eggs, 
beaten very light, and pour into 
a buttered baking-dish. Then fold 
in the whites of three eggs, beaten 
very light and dry, and bake as a 
custard. Serve as soon as removed 
jrom the oven. The hot water pan 




Deviled Crackers Stuffed Olives Cheese 

of a chafing-dish is a good utensil 
in which to bake and serve this ome- 
let. 



Seasonable Recipes 



85 



Panned Chicken 
Select a plump spring chicken. 
Clean, singe, and separate into joints. 
Put the pieces into an agate baking- 
pan, pour in a cup of hot water, cover 
closelv with another pan,' and let 




stand in a hot 
oven about twen- 
ty minutes. Re- 
move the cover, 
baste with the liquid in 
the pan, then sprinkle 
with salt and pepper 
also, if wished, and cook 
an hour, or until tender, 
basting every ten or fif- 
teen minutes with the 
liquid in the pan, rein- 
forced with 
butter or ba- 
con fat melted 
in hot water. 
Remove the 
pieces to a hot 
platter. Gar- 
nish with 
sweet-corn 
fritters, sweet- 



potato croquettes, or with cress and 
sweet, pickled peaches. Pass corn- 
bread with this dish. 

" Way down South " Corn-bread 
vSift together one cup of yellow or 
white corn-meal, half a teaspoon- 
ful of salt, and two teaspoonfuls 
of baking-powder. Beat an egs^ 
very light, and stir into the dry 
ingredients with one quart of 
sweet milk. Turn the mixture 
into a well-buttered 
baking-dish holding 
three pints. Add two 
tablespoonfuls of but- 
ter, cut into 
tiny squares. 
Bake in a 




hot oven 
about twenty-five 
minutes. Stir often 
until the bread be- 
gins to thick- 
en. Serve 
with a 
spoon 
and from 




Panned Chicken Garnish : Sweet Potato Croquettes. Sweet Pickled Peaches 
*' Way down South '' Corn-bread 



86 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



the dish in which it is baked. This 
is served at breakfast, luncheon, or 
tea, and is a favorite dish with chicken. 
It is also served, as a dessert for chil- 
dren, with grated maple sugar or 




Pea Timbales 

granulated sugar and cream. When 
baked, this corn-bread, though served 
with a spoon, is quite firm. 

Sweet Potato Croquettes 
Remove the pulp from five or six 
hot, baked, vSweet potatoes, and pass 
through a "ricer" into a hot sauce- 



a silver fork, until the mixture leaves 
the sides of the sauce-pan and is very 
light. Let cool slightly, then shape 
into balls in the hands. Roll these 
in sifted bread crumbs, then in beaten 
^gg, diluted with a 
tablespoonfulof cold 
water, and again in 
crumbs. Fry in deep 
fat, or put a teaspoon- 
ful of butter on the top 
of each ball, and set to 
brown, on a buttered 
dish, in a hot oven. 

Pea Timbales ' 
For this dish dried, 
canned, or fresh peas 
may be used. It is a very good 
way to prepare fresh peas that have 
become too hard or old to serve 
plainly cooked. Press the cooked 
peas through a sieve. For one cup 
of pulp, beat two eggs, add a few 
drops of onion juice or a sprig of 
mint, chopped fine, two or three 




pan (there should be two cups of 
potato). Add two tablespoonfuls of 
cream or butter, the beaten yolks of 
two or three eggs, almiost half a tea- 
spoonful of salt, and beat thoroughly 
with a perforated wooden spoon, or 



tablespoonfuls of cream, milk, or 
stock, two tablespoonfuls of miclted 
butter, half a teaspoonful, each, of 
salt and sugar, a dash of black pepper, 
and the pulp. Turn into buttered 
moulds, and bake in a pan of hot 



Seasonable Recipes 



87 



water until firm. Serve with a cup 
of white or tomato sauce. The pulp 
of other cooked vegetables may be 
used in the same way. 

Inexpensive Berry Pud- 
ding (Subscriber) 
Sift together three cups 
of flour, half a teaspoonful 
of salt, cinnamon to taste, 
and one teaspoonful of bi- 
carbonate of soda, pulver- 
ized and sifted in a very 
fine sieve. Mix with one 
cup of molasses and half a 
cup of cold water. Then 
stir in one pint of 
berries. Steam one hour 
and a half in a closely 
mould. 



slices of broiled bacon, cover wdth 
buttered bread on which sifted hard- 
boiled yolk has been pressed. Press 
together and wrap in waxed paper, 
unless thev are to be served at once. 




Artichoke Bottom on Toast with Macedoine of Vegetables 
See Queries and Answers 



covered 



Sauce for Pudding 
Heat two cups of sugar, two-thirds 
a cup of hot w^ater, and a tablespoon- 
ful of vinegar to the boiling-point. 
Flavor with vanilla or a grating of 
nutmeg. 

Bacon, Yolk-of-Egg-and- Bread 
Sandwiches 

Spread thin and neatly trimmed 
slices of bread with creamed butter. 
Sift over the butter "hard-boiled" 
yolks of egg, and above this press thin 



Bloater Paste and Rye Bread 
Sandwiches 

Spread new rye bread, thin-sliced- 
and-neatlv trimmed, with butter and 
then wdth bloater paste. Press to- 
gether, and serve at once. These 
sandwiches may be served at a picnic 
or, made very small, as a Jwrs d'oeuvre 
at the beginning or end of a dinner. 

Noisette Sandwiches 

Scald half a cup of milk. Add 

half a cup of boiling water, and, 

when lukewarm, a cake of compressed 

yeast, softened in one-fourth a cup 




French or Globe Artichoke, part of unedlble portion removed 



88 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



of lukewarm water, a tablespoonful 
of shortening, two tablespoonfuls of 
molasses, one cup of hazel-nut meats, 




Birch Whisk See Notes and Correspondence 



half a cup of white flour, and entire 
wheat flour to knead. Finish and 
bake as ordinary bread. Let stand 
twenty-four hours. Cut in thin slices 



Blackberry Pudding 

Beat one-third a cup of butter 
to a cream. Add, 
gradually, half a 
cup of sugar and 
the beaten yolks of 
two eggs. Sift to- 
gether two cups of 
sifted flour, four 
level teaspoonfuls 
of baking-powder, 
and half a tea- 
spoonful of salt. 
Add these to the 
first mixture, alter- 
nately, with half a 
cup of cold water. 
Beat very thor- 
oughly, then beat 
in the whites of two 
Turn into a mould. 



eggs, beaten dr} 
rubbed over thoroughly with clarified 
butter (salt in the butter sometimes 
causes the pudding to "stick" to the 




Makinpf Noisette Sandwiches 



and in fanciful shapes, if desired. 
Spread lightly with butter and then 
with orange marmalade, and put 
together in pairs. 



mould) ; add a cup of blackberries, 
rolled in flour, here and there, as the 
mixture is put into the mould. vSteam 
an hour and a half. Serve with black- 



Seasonable Recipes 



89 



berry sauce, hard or liquid. The pud- pulp a cup or a cup and a half of 
dingmay be baked instead of steamed, sugar, according to taste. Let stand 
It will bake in twenty-five minutes. a short time before serving. 




Blackberry Pudding, Blackberry Hard Sauce 



Blackberry Hard Sauce 

Cream half a cup of butter, and 
gradually beat into it a cup of sugar, 
and then about half a cup of crushed 
and sifted blackberries. 



Nutmeg-melon Mangoes. (Sweet) 

Remove a natural section from 
each melon, and pare away the rind 
from the entire surface. With a tea- 
spoon take out the seeds. Fasten 




Preparing Nutmeg-Melon Ma 



Blackberry Liquid Sauce 

Crush a basket of blackberries, 
and, if the seeds be objectionable, 
pass through a sieve. Stir into the 



the sections again in place, each to 
the melon to which it belongs, with 
a stitch, using a needle and cotton 
thread. For each four or five melons. 



•go 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



pare a dozen peaches, and cut the 
pulp in slices. Add a few cherries, 
if at hand, one-fourth a cup, each, of 
preserved ginger and orange peel, cut 
fine, and mix with a teaspoonful of 
ground cinnamon, half a teaspoon- 
ful of miace, and half a teaspoonful 
of coriander seed. With this fill 
the melons, and sew the pieces re- 
moved in place. For each seven 
pounds of prepared melons, make a 
svrup of a pint of vinegar and four 
pounds of sugar. Add, also, half 
a cup of pickling spices, or half a cup 
of cinnamon bark, blades of mace, 
■cardamon seeds, celery seeds, cloves, 
tiny red pepper pods, and bay leaves 
mixed. Let the fruit cook, covered, 
in the syrup until the melon can be 
•easily pierced with a skewer. Set 
aside in a jar until morning. Drain 
-off the syrup, heat to the boiling- 
point, and return to the melons. 
Repeat twice, then reduce the syrup 
just to cover the pickle, and set 
aside. 



Harvard Chutney (A. C. Rankin) 
Chop fine twelve large ripe toma- 
toes, two medium-sized onions, one 
large red pepper, and twelve stalks of 
celery. Mix with one cup of sugar, 
two tablespoonfuls of salt, one table- 
spoonful of white mustard seed, one 
teaspoonful of celery seed, one-fourth 
a teaspoonful, each, of ground mace 
and cloves, one teaspoonful of ground 
cinnamon, and one cup of vinegar. 
Let boil two hours. Bottle and seal 
while hot, or store in cans as canned 
fruit. 

Japanese Koto (A. C. Rankin) 
Cut five pounds of rhubarb stalks 
in inch pieces. Add five pounds of 
sugar, and let stand over night. In 
the morning pour boiling water over 
one pound and a half of figs, cut them 
into bits, and add to the pie plant 
with the grated rind and juice of two 
lemons. Boil until like a thick pre- 
serve. Koto is delicious with cold 
meats, also as a cake filling. 





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Canning with Steam Cooker 




Summer Good Times 



By Kate Gannett Wells 

HOW much vacation did you 
get?" asked Mrs. Jocelyn, as 
she made the coffee at break- 
fast in her cosey flat. 

"I like your verb," answered Miss 
Dole. "It indicates the hard work 
preliminary to a vacation. I got my 
two weeks. If I were a public school- 
teacher, I should have had two 
months; if a private schoolmistress, 
four months; if a society leader, six 
months. Summer is not a fixed sea- 
son. Its variable length is just a 
matter of occupation." 

"Two weeks is better than just a 
day off," replied her friend. "Most 
mothers do not even get that; and, 
if it were not for the summer philan- 
thropies of the city, their children 
could not tell an oak-tree from a 
maple, in spite of all the nature stud- 
ies in the schools . " 

"That is why summer vexes me," 
argued Miss Dole. "I never feel the 
difference in social station in winter 
as I do in summer, when all is on an 
outdoor sliding scale. I don't object 
to civic philanthropy, — sand gardens, 
playgrounds, outdoor gymnasiums. 



and parks, — for they belong to the 
people ; but so many of us accept, for 
the sake of recreation, the private 
benevolence of Fresh Air Funds, Coun- 
try Weeks, and Camps, Working 
Girls' Summer Rests, etc., that lines 
of cleavage take place, and social 
ranking begins. The up-town book- 
keeper does not want to room with 
the down-town clerk; and, as there 
are not as many rooms as persons, 
three and four girls, who don't know 
each other, have a room together, 
and it is hot, gossipy, and tiresome. 
I never feel so poor and abject as I do 
in summer, w^hen I won't go with the 
crowd and can't go where I want." 

"And I," answered Mrs. Jocelyn, 
buoyantly, "never feel so rich and 
free as I do in summer. The beauty 
of all outdoors is mine. Each flower 
is blooming just for me. And the 
crowded trolley cars, and the perspir- 
ing men hanging on to them, and the 
children smeared with candy do not 
bother me, when the wind blows over 
us all. There is such fun in things, 
and such a trifle makes one so happy, 
when one is neither in love nor en- 



92 



The Boston Cooking-School M; 



vious. I was invited to Mrs. Byron's 
place for a week, and I went just to 
see how she did it ; and she worked 
at it harder than you ever do in the 
store or I in the office. It is an awful 
job to entertain. Distinguished peo- 
ple are so plentiful that all cannot 
really be very great. Then style does 
not suit the summer at all. It does 
seem as if quiet, shirt-waisted women 
might walk along a beach without 
trespassing on private property and 
being dismissed from the premises, 
just as if one were an advance-guard 
of an army- worm invasion. I must 
make an exception, however, as to 
teachers. They can do anything, 
even if they have not better manners 
than the rest of us." 

"But," replied Miss Dole, "it is 
just the kind of people who put up 
their signs, 'Private Property,' who 
also found hospitals and art museums, 
and both are of benefit to me. So 
I don't object to summer exclusive- 
ness. It amuses me. Only I just 
won't accept summer philanthropy. 
There is lots in between: cheap ex- 
cursion rates, and a sunset every even- 
ing, and green trees, and icewater 
free, and all the people to laugh with, 
— not at, — for there are a thousand 
jokes going on outdoors in summer." 
As she spoke thus, she looked at her 
hostess, a middle-aged woman, who 
never could have been beautiful, but 
whose very presence seemed to radi- 
ate geniality, and, to hide her feel- 
ings, she praised the coffee. Then 
questioning, she said: "Aren't you 
going away again? You have not 
had even as much vacation as I have 
had." 

"I'm going to take my next week, 
when September comes, in resting 
and day dreaming. I'm going to 
enjoy myself and make up a novel 
for a whole week, thinking out to 
myself, what he says, and how she 



looks, and what both do. I weave 
it by bits, sometimes. But, oh, the 
luxury of living a whole week in your 
imaginations, which no one can criti- 
cise nor reject, your own self and you 
just having it together!" 

"Dear me!" sighed Miss Dole. "I 
should rather accept summer charity 
than make up a novel that never 
will be printed. I like real things. 
Did you know that Boston was the 
first city in this summer business? 
'The Country Week' was started by 
Rev. W. C. Gannett in 1875, so that 
children need not have the 'doorstep 
for their evening hill-top ' ; and coun- 
try people took them in just for love's 
sake. The first year he sent off 160, 
the next season 350; and then the 
affair was handed over to the 
'Y. M. C. A.,' and they sent away 
thousands each season. From that 
'Country Week' came the hosts of 
volunteer devices for other people's 
good times, until at last the city took 
up the business through its park 
commission, and playgrounds are now 
all over the country." 

"The saddest part of it is," an- 
swered Mrs. Jocelyn, "that each 
child has a baby to care for. I sup- 
pose mothers can't help it; but the 
way a little child has to tend a littler 
one breaks my heart with a sense of 
the injustices of life, so I take refuge 
in my imaginar^^ novel, where every- 
thing comes out right. But it is 
comforting to know that all those 
children are going to learn in the 
public schools how to cook Ham- 
burg steaks and wash dishes. Do- 
mestic science, cooking schools, and 
industrial education are the three 
reconciling forces, which will har- 
monize emigration with American 
patriotism. Vacation playgrounds 
must become outdoor vacation schools, 
if grown-up people really want to help 
children. Some begin at the top with 



Curly-head's Praver 93 

training of teachers, others work breathing means for the children of 

from below with the child ; and the the alleys. And, glad as I am for all 

two extremes meet." this impetus toward vacation schools, 

"Granted," said Miss Dole, "for, it is a shame to the medical profes- 

just as the rich man leaves his ample sion that it does not protest against 

city home for his ampler -country indoor summer work. I'd even have 

place where there is more oxygen, cooking done outdoors, in spite of 

so do the children of the poor need contrary winds. But I must leave 

that their summer schooling, whether you now, for punctuality is the hall- 

of books, manners, or morals, should mark of a shop-girl." 
be done outdoors, that they may have ' ' No more than of any other kind of 

a fuller chance to inhale what there a girl," urged Mrs. Jocelyn, as she, 

is of oxygen in the city air. I work too, rose from the table. ''Don't 

in a store, so I know what outdoor classify yourself, then no one else ivill." 



" Curly-head's Prayer " 

Written for the Cooking-School Magazine 
By Mary J. W. Houghton 

"Give us this day our daily bread " 

Slowly chanted our Curly -head, 
Bowed in innocent, childish grace, 

Almost hiding her smiling face ; 
"And give us butter, too," she said, 

"Just like what grandma used to spread 
On cake, with berries stirred all through, 

And please, Lord, give us berry cake, too." 

The summer past our Curly-head 

Had spent at Grandpa's, where she said 
She did what mamma told her to, 

Was a good girl, and helped them do 
'Most everything, — fed tabby milk, 

Sewed blocks for grandma's quilt of silk, 
Helped feed the hens, and turkeys corn, 

When "dinner's ready" blew the horn. 
Helped grandpa find the bantam's egg, 

Fed Rover when he'd stand and beg, 
Helped every time 'twas washing day, 

Holding clothes-pins for Auntie Ray; 
Helped auntie pick the berries blue. 

Saw grandma stir and stir them through 
The cake, and in the oven bake it, — 

" 'Twas so good. / helped to make it." 

Blueberry cakes, of grandma's days. 

Have ever had their meed of praise: 
Not only from the children small. 

But from the children grown so tall 
That above grandma's silvery curls 

Stand the heads of boys and girls, 
Who in their youth had each their share, 

And now would offer Curly -head's prayer. 



< 

Q 
< 



Menus for One Week in August 

(Farm-house. 15 Boarders) 
** ^Ijc most, frequent cause of tiisc0mfovt from tije ijeat is probablg oberfeetiing." 



breakfast 

Cereal. Berries. Cream. 

Brook Trout, Fried. Cucumbers. 

Potatoes Stewed with Bacon. 

Baking-powder Biscuit. Dry Toast. 

Cream Toast. Milk. Coffee. 

Fowl (year old) Stewed and Panned, 

Bechamel Sauce. 

Baked Sweet Potatoes. Corn Fritters. 

Lettuce Salad. Ice-cream. Coffee. 

Supper 

Dried Beef, Frizzled. 

Dry Toast. Toasted Biscuit. 

Rice Pudding with Raisins. 

Berries, Cream. 



"Breakfast 

Cereal. Stewed Crab Apples. 

Salt Codfish Balls. Dressed Lettuce. 

French Omelet. 

Sweet Apple Muffins. Cream Toast. 

Milk. Coffee. 

dinner 

Lamb Broth with Barley. 

Corned Beef. New Cabbage. 

Onions in Cream Sauce. 

Beets, French Dressing. 

Tapioca Custard Pudding, Liquid Berry Sauce. 

Green Tomato Pie. Cereal Coffee. 

Supper 

Hot, Green Corn Custard. 

Barley Crystals, Cream. New Rye Biscuits. 

Apple Sauce. Cottage Cheese. Tea. Milk. 



"Breakfast 

Cereal. Baked Apples, Cream. 

Chicken on Toast. Poached Eggs on 

Toast. Broiled Sweet Potatoes. 

Rye-meal Muffins. Milk. Coffee. 

Dinner (one o'clock). 

Leg of Lamb, Roasted, Mint Sauce. 

Baked Bananas, Currant Sauce. 

Sweet Corn on the Cob. 

Franconia Potatoes. Tomato Salad. 

Berry Pie. Coffee. Milk. 

Supper 

Cream -of- Pea Soup, Browned Crackers. 

Hot Boiled Rice. 

Apple Sauce. Bread and Butter. 

Milk. Tea. 



"Breakfast 

Cereal. Baked Apples, Cream. 

Corned Beef Hash with Green Pepper. 

Eggs in the Shell. 

Sweet Com Griddle Cakes. 

Milk. Coffee. 

"Dinner 

Beefsteak. Baked Sweet Potatoes. 

Breaded Egg Plant. Tomato Salad. 

Hot Cornstarch Pudding, Chocolate Sauce. 

Frozen Apricots. Cookies. Tea. 

Supper 

Hot Ham Timbales, Tomato Sauce. 

Nun's Toast. Boiled Rice, Cream. 

Hot Sliced Apples Baked till Red, Cream. 

Milk Tea. 



"Breakfast 

Cereal. Berries, Cream. 

Cold Boiled Ham, Sliced Thin. 

Eggs as Ordered. White Hashed Potatoes. 

Corn-meal Muffins. 

White and Graham Toast. 

Milk. Coffee. 

"THnner 

Fresh Fish Chowder. 

Lamb Croquettes, String Beans in Cream. 

Lettuce-and-Tomato Salad. 

Apple Pie. Vanilla Ice-cream, Powdered 

with Crushed Caramel. Coffee. Milk. 

Supper 

Cream-of-Corn Soup. Lettuce-and-Egg Salad. 
Cream Toast. Berries. Milk. Tea. 



"Breakfast 

Cereal. Melons. 

Creamed Corned Beef au Grathi. 

French Fried Potatoes. 

Dry Toast. White Mountain Muffins. 

Coffee. Milk. 

"Dinner 

Mock Bisque Soup. 

Boiled Salmon. Cucumbers. 

Summer Squash. Corn on the Cob. 

Custard Pie. Blanc-mange, 

Cream or Currant Jelly. Cereal Coffee. 

Supper 

Blueberry Tea Cake. 

Baked Pears. Cookies. Crackers. 

Milk. Tea. 



"Breakfast 

Cereal. Berries, Milk. 

Poached Eggs with 

Creamed Celery. 

Entire-wheat Buns. 

Coffee. 



"Dinner 

Stewed Chicken, Boiled Rice. 

Escalloped Tomatoes. 

Com Fritters. Hot Baked Beets, 

Sliced and Buttered. 

Hot Cabinet Pudding. 

Currant Jelly Sauce. 

Blueberry Pie. 



Supper 
Salmon Timbales, Peas. 

Pulled Bread. 

Blackberry Short Cake. 

Tea. 



Menus for One Week in September 



iltbt on plain faotis, rat fruit frcclg anti sl^ip 

Thought.'''' 

Nutmeg Melons. 

Shredded Wheat Biscuit, Cream. 

Parker House Rolls. Coffee. 

Dinner 

Cold Roast Veal f Rump, Boned and Stuffed). 

Hot Brown Sauce. Plain Boiled Potatoes. 

Cauliflower Souffle. 

Sweet l^ickled Pears. 

Peach Sherbet, in Cups, Whipped Cream. 

Coffee. 

Supper 

Sardines with Lettuce. 

Nut Bread and Butter, 

Sliced Peaches, Sugared. 

Tea. 



meal nobj anti tljen. — Adapted from "-A^ew 



"Breakfa-st 

Old Grist-mill Toasted Wheat. 

Sweet Apples Baked. Cream. 

Hashed Beef on Toast. 

Rye-meal Mufflns, 

Cocoa or Chocolate. 



Luncheon (Cold) 

Oyster Stew, Sliced Tomatoes. 

Berry Pie. 

Cereal Coffee. 

Dinner 

Cold Roast Beef. 

Baked Potatoes. 

Spiced Gooseberries. Celery. 

Cubes of Turnip in Cream Sauce. 

Grapes. 



'=Breakfa.st 

Berries. Ralston Breakfast Food. 

Broiled Mackerel (Salt or Fresh). 

Potatoes Hashed in Cream. 

Toast. Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Eggs Shirred in Tomatoes. 

Sweet Corn Roasted on the Cob. 

Rolls, Reheated. 
Blackberry Pudding, Liquid Sauce. 

'Dinner 

Veal Souflle. 

Lima Beans in Cream. 

Celery. Crackers. Cheese. 

Sliced Peaches, Sugared. 

Tea. 



'Breakfast 

Pettijohn's Breakfast Food.- 

Baked Apples Stuffed with Dates, Cream. 

Beauregard Eggs. 

German Coffee Cakes. 

Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Succotash. Bread and Butter. 

Apple Pie. Cream Cheese. Tea. 

THnner 

Tomato Soup. 

Fore quarter of Lamb, Boiled, Caper Sauce. 

Pea Timbales. Summer Squash, Well 

Buttered. Celery Salad, Boiled Dressing. 

German Peach Cake, Hard Sauce. 

Tea. 



"Breakfast 

Grapes. Grape-nuts. 

Columbia College Omelet. 

Creamed Celery on Toast. 

Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Baked Sweet Potatoes. 

Frizzled Dried Beef. 

Berry Pie. Cereal Coffee. 

IXnner (Cold Rainy Day). 

Roast Ribs of Beef. 

Potatoes, Franconia Style. 

Escalloped Tomatoes. 

Cold Beets, French Dressing. 

Cottage Pudding, Liquid Berry Sauce. 

Tea. 



breakfast 

Gluten Grits. Sliced Peaches, Cream. 

Smoked Halibut, Creamed. 

Baked Potatoes. Muffins. 

Cereal Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Corn Chowder, Crackers. Pickles. 

Pared Apples Cooked in Casserole, Cream. 

Coffee. 

Dinner 

Green Pea and Tomato Soup. 

Baked Bluefish, 

Shredded Wheat Stuffing, 

Pickle Sauce. 

New Onions, Buttered. 

Blackberry Pudding, Liquid Sauce. 



^Breakfast 

Boiled Rice, Cream. 

Stewed Potatoes with Bacon. 

Sliced Tomatoes. 

Rye Parker House Rolls. 

Cereal Coffee. 



Luncheon 

Cauliflower Souffle. 

Bread and Butter. 

Peach Shortcake. 

Tea. 



'Dinner 

Lamb Croquettes, 

Lima Beans. 

Corn Custard. 

Pickled Beets. 

Blackberry Sponge. 

Tea. 



X 

c 

> 



Picnic Menus 



(l^nlg tf)C i}ungrg fenoijjtfjc real j0g of eating. Simple outUoor life stimulates t\)t muscular 
tern, anti intiuces or preserves a state of Ijealtl). 

Family Picnic 
I. 

Bacon-and-Egg Sandwiches. 

Sardines. Pickles. 

Baking POWDER Biscuit, Buttered. 

Apple Turnovers. Cottage Cheese. 

Iced Cocoa. Grapes. 



II. 

Cold Roast Lamb, Sliced Thin. 

Potato Salad. 

Nut-bread-and-Currant Jelly Sandwiches. 

Hot Cereal Coffee. 

Grapes. Melons. 



School Boys' Picnic 

Hot Boiled or Baked Eggs. 

Potatoes Baked in Hot Ashes. 

"Squizzled" Bacon. 

Boston Brown Bread with Raisins. 

Doughnuts. Cereal Coffee. 



Mens Fishing Picnic 

Baked Bean Salad. 

Sliced Ham Sandwiches. Nut-bread Sandwiches. 

Cold Boiled Eggs. 

Mock-mince Turnovers. Coffee. 



Picnic for Young Ladies and Gentlemen 
I. 

Little Chicken Pies. 

Currant Jelly. Pim-Olas. 

Green Pea-and-Carrot Salad, Boiled Dressing. 

Parker House Rolls, Buttered. 

Ice-cream. Cake. 

Coffee. Lemonade 



II. 

Creamed Eggs and Lobster, or 

Creamed Chicken and Peas 

(Chafing-dish). 

New Rye Bread-and-Bui^er Sandwiches. 

Cold Boiled Ham, Sliced Thin. 

Radishes. Olives. Salted Nuts. Cheese. 

Peach Sherbet. Strawberry Tartlets. 

Sponge Cakelets. Lemonade. 



In Reference to Illustrations, Recipes, 
Menus, Etc. 



DURING the heated season 
the folly of having six hot 
kitchens in as many flats is 
borne home to us most forcibly, and 
we say, ' ' Cannot some plan be worked 
out by which five of these hot kitchens 
may be kept cool, even throughout 
the entire day?" Add to comfort 
economy in fuel, and the wonder is 
that six kitchen fires are ever tol- 
erated under one roof. We do oc- 
casionally realize that kitchen ranges, 
no matter what the fuel may be, are 
extravagant; but we fail to grasp 
the fact that extravagance is piled 
upon extravagance throughout the 
entire preparation of our meals, from 
buying to serving. One or two illus- 
trations will emphasize this. In fac- 
tories, where luncheons are provided 
for the workmen, it has been proven 
that good coffee, bought by the quan- 
tity, can be prepared and served with 
hot milk at one cent per cup without 
loss, and in some cases at a slight 
profit; that sandwiches of all kinds 
can be sold at tw^o cents each, oyster 
soup at five cents per plate, other 
soups at two or three cents per plate, 
and a Hamburg steak, with slice of 
bread, for two cents. 

Consider the cost of service, fires, 
marketing, etc., for twelve families, 
and then note how it has been cut 
down by "co-operation." In Ontario, 
Cal., twelve families, comprising min- 
isters, doctors, lawyers, bankers, and 
business men, all living within a 
radius of eight blocks, have formed 
a "Co-operative Family Club." The 
club rents a new two-story structure 
for $20 a month. The lower rooms 
are used for dining-rooms and 



kitchen, the upper rooms are occu- 
pied by the four employees of the 
establishment, who receive remun- 
eration in money to the amount of 
$1 50 per month. These employees are 
a stewardess and dish-washer (women) 
and a cook and waiter (men). 

The women of the club, in turn, 
make out the daily menus, thus in- 
suring each family a voice in the se- 
lection of the food. The number 
of courses is regulated by an execu- 
tive committee; as, for dinner, the 
meal is restricted to one kind of soup 
and meat, two vegetables, a salad, 
and one variety of dessert. 

Each family has its own table 
linen and silver, and each dresses 
the table at will, with fruit or flowers 
usually found in profusion in the 
home garden. Children from two 
to five pay half- rates, and all over 
five are assessed at full rates. When 
the bills for the month are all in, the 
assessment per capita is made out. 
Up to the present time the average 
cost for each person has been eleven 
cents per meal. All food products 
are of the best quality, and, being 
bought in large quantities, are ob- 
tained at special rates. Breakfast is 
served from 6.30 to 8.30, luncheon 
from 12 to 1.30, and dinner from 5 to 
7. To prepare and serve these meals 
is the sole business of the day, and 
with the hours named one waiter 
suffices. 

The possibility of securing three 
satisfactory meals per day, with all 
the attendant expense of prepara- 
tion, including fuel, service for kitchen 
and dining-room, for about thirty- 
three cents per individual, is a condi- 



98 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



tioii devoutly to be desired by the 
large majority of housekeepers. Still 
this method could be attempted only 
in rare localities. Many a household 
could have no part in such a scheme. 
We should be pleased to hear from 
others who are trying any form of 
co-operative housekeeping. 

Apples Again 
Apples are again in season, and, 
with this accommodating fruit at 
hand, the resourceful housekeeper 
need never be long at a loss as to what 
she shall serve. More often the trou- 
ble lies in the "embarrassment of 
riches" suggested by this fruit. 
Bread, cheese, and cream are com- 
plementary dishes, adding nutritive 
value and richness, in which the apple 
is deficient. For a change try cook- 
ing apples, neatly pared and cored, 
very slowly in a casserole. Sprinkle 
with sugar, and add a few spoonfuls 
of water before covering the dish. 
When cooked, the apples should be 
whole, tender, and red in color. 

Ice-cream with Caramel 
For sake of variety try sprinkling 
ice-cream, after it has been "dished," 
with powdered caramel. Pour the 
liquid caramel onto an oiled platter 
or marble slab, and, when thoroughly 
cold, pound quite fine in a mortar. 

For Picnics 
Hot dishes are not considered es- 
sential at picnics. Much, however, 
depends upon the weather and the 
locality. Young men and w^omen 
often feel disposed to carry along a 
chafing-dish, as a little cooking helps 
to fill up the time. A level place on 
which the dish may stand during the 
process of cooking, and, after the lamp 
is filled, the careful covering of the 
tube through which the alcohol flows, 
are conditions to note, if one does not 



court sure disaster. Of course, the 
contents of the blazer may be cooked 
with the alcohol running over the 
lamp and aflame; but, to say the 
least, such a state rather detracts 
from the pleasure of the company, 
and is a menace to' lace or muslin 
draped arms and table linen. Boys 
on a picnic, as elsewhere, must have 
something to do, and building a stone 
fireplace, bringing water, collecting 
wood, and wrapping green corn, fish, 
potatoes, eggs, and the like in damp 
paper, preparatory to burying them in 
hot ashes, appeals quite strongly to 
their tastes. In after years the 
flavor of these viands, prepared with 
their own hands and eaten in the 
open air with the zest acquired by 
exercise and sharpened by the delay 
of such primitive cooking, will be 
recalled, again and again, with satis- 
faction and pleasure. 

Canning 
In the article in this issue by Mrs. 
Lucas the subject of canning is ably 
treated, and only a word will be added 
here. As is well known, the fresh 
juice of the pineapple possesses the 
power of digesting proteids. It is 
also a specific in liver troubles and 
catarrhal affections of the throat and 
alimentary canal: hence it is very 
desirable to be able to preserve it in 
an uncooked state. Our experi- 
ments were not begun early enough 
in the season to warrant positive as- 
sertions as to the method by which 
the fruit may be preserved in a fresh 
state, but we will state what has been 
done, and be glad of corroboration or 
denial of the practicability of the 
method employed. Single efforts do 
not give satisfactory data. Pine- 
apple, sliced or picked from the core 
with a silver fork, will not keep when 
put up in cold water, though in this 
manner rhubarb is successfully canned. 



In Reference to Illustrations, Recipes, Etc. 



99 



Grated pineapple mixed with sugar, 
pound for pound, and left thus over- 
night, may be successfully stored in 
sterilized jars, the covers being steril- 
ized and new rubbers used. 

Harmony in Food and Weather 
Do not get into the habit of having 
certain dishes on certain days, "even 
if the sky falls." To some extent 
let the weather settle the choice of 
food for you. Of course, after all 
one's efforts to make the day's menu 
harmonize with the climatic condi- 
tions, one will often produce a contra- 
tenips; but with a little management 
the situation can be redeemed, and 
harmony brought out of seeming dis- 
cord. The morning is hot, dry and 
sultry, a typical August morning. 
Ices and salad are the only dishes 
that seem desirable to you, and your 
plans are laid accordingly. A thunder 
shower in the late afternoon brings 
an autumn chill into the air, and 
your carefully selected menu is any- 
thing but desirable. Plenty of hot 
chocolate, coffee, or caramel sauce 
over a small service of ice-cream will 
change the nature of the ice. As for 
the salad, the dressing may be re- 
served until a more opportune time, 
and the other ingredients served in 
a creamed or curried dish. The 
cooked salad materials have been 
marinated? So much the better. 
You are tired of creamed dishes? 
Then why not try timbales. 

Concerning Timbales 
Salmon, chicken, peas, beans, cauli- 
flower, almost anything that you 
had been planning to present in a 
salad, may be transformed into tim- 
bales just as well as into creamed 
dishes. Nicely cooked timbales are 
dainty fare, and, if an unexpected 
guest arrives, you will end b}^ con- 
gratulating yourself that you have 



such a satisfactory way of serving a 
cup of cooked material. If the prod- 
uct be meat or fish, the larder needs 
afford three eggs and a cup and a 
half of milk or stock, to complete the 
dish. Ten timbales of the ordinary 
size will be the result. 

While we are about it, let us inves- 
tigate the timbale subject a little 
further; for, when one sets out to 
have a dainty dish, everything about 
it must be "consistent." To set 
delicate fare, slovenly prepared, be- 
fore one's family or guests is the 
acme of "shoddiness" in cookery. 
Even a child, who is neat-handed and 
properly instructed in the elements 
of cookery, can turn out as hand- 
some timbales and custards as a chef. 
The true cook, compared with the 
cook of the "shoddy" type, has ever 
an eye to appearance. 

The illustration, showing something 
of the preparation of pea timbales, 
is given as typical of the mode of 
preparing all dishes of this class. Tim- 
bales are very simple dishes, and, as 
with all simple things, are not usually 
given the attention necessary to se- 
cure the perfect product. The tim- 
bale takes its name from the puree 
that forms its basis, as salmon, 
chicken, ham, or pea timbales. The 
puree is solidified with eggs. When 
cooked, the consistency should be 
that of a smooth, well-baked custard 
rather than of a light, spongy soufifle. 
This condition is secured by beating 
the eggs, without separating, until the 
whites and yolks are evenly blended. 

Of course, the timbale mixture may 
be cooked in an ordinary baking- 
dish and served from the same, but 
the idea is to serve the article turned 
from a drum-shaped mould (timbale), 
either large or small, in perfect shape. 
Often timbales are decorated. This 
is an additional reason why the re- 
tention of shape is desirable. 



lOO 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



Thorough oiHng of the moulds with 
oil or clarified butter is a first essen- 
tial. The liability of the decoration 
or of the mixture itself to stick to 
the mould is obviated absolutely by 
lining the bottom of the mould with 
buttered paper. Set-one of the moulds 
upon several folds of paper (see illus- 
tration), and with pencil draw a line 
around and close to the mould, then 
cut out inside the line. The paper 
may be folded to cut a dozen or more 
linings at once. Butter the papers 
thoroughl}-, after they are put in 
place. After the timbales are un- 
moulded, remove the papers wdth 
care. While filling the moulds, tap 
them occasionally on the table, that 
the preparation may settle down 
closely. 

Delicate cooking is the next essen- 
tial to perfect timbales. The cook- 



ing is a sort of "poaching," and may 
be done in the oven, on top of the 
range, or in a chafing-dish or steam 
kettle, provided only the tempera- 
ture be kept below the boiling-point 
of water. 

Into the dish, in which the moulds 
are to be set, put several folds of 
paper. A trivet, if one of the right 
size be at hand, is the proper thing, 
but several folds of paper answer the 
purpose; i.e., furnish a means of rais- 
ing the timbales above the direct 
heat, yet letting hot v/ater come in 
contact with them. Pour boiling 
water into the outer dish until it 
rises half the height of the moulds. 
Reheat to the boiling-point, then set 
to cook where the water will not boil. 
The timbales are cooked when firm 
to the touch at the centre of the upper 
surface. 




Pointers on Preserving Fruits 

By Mrs. E. M. Lucas 






THE process of making fruit 
a factor for next winter's de- 
light is an interesting topic 
to all housev/ives, and especially so, 
when Httle variations and differences, 
prompted by the materials on hand 
or mayhap a good palate and a dis- 
cerning eye, are suggested. 

The first step in the process of pre- 
serving is to secure fruit of uniform 
ripeness and at the height of its flavor, 
and cleanliness must be as much a 
part of the regular routine as the se- 
lection of the best mxaterials. 

By a very simple contrivance an 
ordinary wash-boiler mav be converted 



into an excellent fruit steamer, one 
that will do the work as well as an 
expensive sterilizer. 

Take a piece of board about one- 
half an inch thick and of a size to fit 
loosely into the bottom of the boiler. 
Have the board perforated with holes 
an inch in diameter, and with a space 
of two inches between each. On the 
under side of the board nail cleats six 
inches high, one in the centre and one 
near each end. These serve a double 
purpose, primarily to keep the board 
above water, also to prevent it from 
warping. Put water to the depth of 
four inches into the boiler, put in the 



Pointers on Preserving Fruits 



lOI 



board, and the steamer is ready. On 
the board the jars are placed, filled 
with the raw fruit, covered with a rich 
syrup. Have rubbers adjusted and 
lids screwed on loosely. Cpver the 
boiler closely. If the lid does not fit, 
lay under it a thick cloth, so as to 
prevent steam from escaping. Bring 
water to the boiling-point, and boil 
from ten to twenty minutes, according 
to the nature of the fruit. Berries 
require steaming ten minutes, peaches 
and apricots fifteen minutes, while 
pears and such fruit must be steamed 
longer. When done, screw lids on 
tightly, and set on table to cool. 

By this method not only is the 
flavor of the fruit retained, but the 
shape is preserved, and the ease with 
which the work may be done is also 
worthy of attention. 

Strawberries are delicious prepared 
in this manner. Hull the berries and 
drop into a bowl. To every pound of 
fruit use half a pint of sugar and half 
a pint of currant juice obtained by 
cooking the currants and straining 
the juice through cheese-cloth. Boil 
the currant juice and sugar ten min- 
utes. Pour the boiling syrup over the 
berries, cover closely, and set aside 
until the following day. Then drain 
off the syrup carefully, boil, and pour 
over the berries again. Repeat once 
more. Then put the berries in jars, 
heat the syrup, pour over berries, and 
adjust rubbers and li(Js. Raspberries 
are delicious prepared in the same 
manner. Thus prepared, the fruit 
has the aroma of the fresh product, 
and is a great help in varying one's 
list of dainty desserts in the winter 
time. The berries miay be jellied with 
charlotte russe, used to make a 
mousse, a water ice, for iced puddings, 
and so on. 

A delicious conserve is made of 
cherries combined with lemons. Use 
one-half a pint of lemon juice and one- 



half a pint of sugar to every three 
pounds of pitted and stemmed cherries. 
Fill jars with the cherries, boil the 
sugar and lemon juice ten minutes, 
and pour over cherries in jars until 
overflowing. Adjust rubbers and lids, 
cook in jars, as directed, ten minutes. 

With deftness the housewife can 
produce as dainty a dish of crystal- 
lized cherries as the most expert con- 
fectioner. These are worth all the 
time and care consumed in making, 
as innumerable are the ways in which 
they may appear to the palate a joy. 
Stone and weigh the cherries, and 
allow four pounds of sugar to eight 
pounds of fruit. Put the sugar and 
cherries, in alternate layers, in a bowl, 
cover and let stand over night. Place 
over the fire, in a granite- ware kettle, 
and, as soon as it comes to a boil, re- 
move the cherries with a perforated 
ladle and put them on dishes. Boil 
the syrup one hour, then put into it 
half the cherries, cook ten minutes, 
remove to a dish, and cook the other 
half ten minutes. Put all the cherries 
into the hot syrup, and set away over 
night. The next morning drain the 
syrup, carefully, from them., and place 
the cherries, loosely, on dishes and set 
in the sun to dry. Boil the syrup 
briskly until it is thick like honey, and 
pour into a bowl. Every day pour a 
little of the syrup over the cherries, 
until all has been absorbed. Turn 
the cherries daily, and, when perfectly 
dry, which will be in about ten days, 
pack between layers of waxed paper. 

When currant jelly is in the process 
of making, add half its bulk of rhubarb 
juice. Simply put the rhubarb into 
an earthen bowl, add a few spoonfuls 
of water, bake in a slow oven one hour, 
turn into a jelly bag, and let drip over 
night. Add an equal quantity of cur- 
rant juice and proceed in the usual 
manner. 

Plums and nectarines are another 



I02 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



good combination for jelly. Use half 
of each variety of fruit. The fruit may 
be cooked together or separately .at 
one's option. To extract the juice, 
add a little water, then cook slowly 
until the juice flows freely. Strain 
through a jelly bag, measure, and add 
three-fourths a cup of sugar to each 
cup of juice. Boil fifteen minutes, 
and pour into heated jelly glasses. 

Equal parts of grapes and apples 
make a well-flavored jelly, nice to 
serve with game and meats. 

In making apple jelly, try the effect 
of the juice and the thin yellow rind 
of a lemon to each pint of apple juice. 
Skim out the bits of lemon rind, when 
the jelly is put in glasses. Apple jelly 
to serve with roast goose or pork is 
flavored delicately with mint. Make 
the jelly in the usual way, using green, 
unripe apples, which make a very clear 
jelly. To each cup of the strained 
juice add, before adding the sugar, a 
tablespoonful of mint juice prepared in 
this w^ay. Wash one cup of mint 
leaves, add one cup of hot water, and 
let steep one hour. Lay a piece of 
cheese-cloth over a bowl, pour into 
it the mint leaves, and roll up and 
press out all the moisture. This gives 
a dark green mixture that colors the 
apple jelly a delicate tinge of green. 

The flavor of apricots harmonizes 
with pineapple, so try this marmalade. 
Wash three potmds of apricots, cover 
with boiling water, let stand ten min- 
utes' and slip off the skins. Put to 
cook with one pint of water, cook to a 
pulp, and strain through a colander. 
Add one pound of pineapple: the raw 
grated pineapple may be used or the 
canned article. In the latter case 
chop fine, and add also the juice from 
the can. Cook twenty minutes. Add 
to this amount of pulp two pounds of 
sugar and two tablespoonfuls of fine- 
chopped, blanched apricot-kernels. 
Cook fifteen minutes, and pour into 



glasses. When cold, cover with para- 
fine. This is an excellent foundation 
for marmalade sauce to serve with 
puddings, omelettes, and so on. 

For an excellent water ice, add one 
pint of water to a pint of marmalade. 
Pass through cheese-cloth, add a table- 
spoonful of creme de noyaux, and sugar 
to make quite sweet. Freeze as usual. 
If something richer be wanted, use half 
the quantity of water and add a cup 
of whipped cream. 

The humble pumpkin makes a 
wholesome sweet. Remove the rind 
and seeds, and cut into inch cubes. To 
every pound of pumpkin allow half a 
pound of sugar and two ounces of 
whole ginger root. Put these ingre- 
dients into a jar, in layers, and let 
stand three days, when a goodly quan- 
tity of rich syrup will have formed. 
Add to every three pounds of pumpkin 
the juice of two lemons. Pour all 
into a large kettle, and cook slowly 
until the pumpkin looks clear, but is 
not broken. Store in small pots or 
glasses, covered with parafine. This 
is nice to serve with, or to add to, ices 
or frozen puddings. It can be used 
in any recipe that calls for preserved 
ginger, which it greatly resembles. 

Grape juice is easily put up, and is 
useful in many ways. Wash and 
stem eight pounds of grapes ; add one 
quart of cold water. Set on the stove, 
and bring to a boil slowly. Let boil 
fifteen minutes. Stir and mash with 
a wooden spoon, strain through a jelly 
bag, add half a pound of granulated 
sugar to each quart of juice, and boil 
fifteen minutes. Fill heated bottles, 
cork and seal while hot. 

This will be found useful for sherbets 
and iced puddings. It is excellent for 
sauces, to serve with boiled puddings ; 
and, with lemons, hot water and a 
dust of cinnamon, a delicious hot 
punch may be evolved that is com- 
forting, on cold days. 



Novel Entertainments 



A Tin Wedding 

FOR a tenth anniversary cele- 
bration procure tinfoil and lay 
a wide band of it across the 
supper table. Make frills or hohhhe 
of it, also, for your candlesticks, and 
even cover with it cigars for the gen- 
tlemen. 

The chief ornaments of the table 
should be bride roses and a cake dec- 
orated with a wreath of wedding bells, 
with dates in the centre or with initials 
entwined in a cipher monogram. 

Use tin plates for the first course, — 
the little ones children used to have 
with alphabet borders and "who 
killed Cock Robin," now rather hard 
to find. If not obtainable, have some 
made with the monogram and dates 
pressed in, and present these as sou- 
venirs. 

The gifts may comprise everything 
from a nutmeg grater to a watering- 
pot or steam-cooker. 

The new Kayserzinn ware, or Ger- 
man tin, which is not Hke either silver, 
pewter, or britannia, is much used now. 
It comes in artistic shapes and appro- 
priately decorated with patterns in 
relief, also plain. It requires less care 
to clean than silver, and is quite the 
newest and most suitable thing for 
a tin wedding. 

Julia Davis Chandler. 

A Trunk Party 
When boarding in the summer, one 
is often at a loss for pleasures suited 
to old and young or semi-invalids, to 
whom athletics are impossible, danc- 
ing undesirable, and refreshments 
superfluous. Especially, for a rainy 
morning on the veranda or a long 
evening, something is desired to en- 



liven the hours until bed-time besides 
music and cards. Of course in a 
large and unhomogeneous assembly 
the following idea would be impossi- 
ble, but often a summer household is 
pleasantly united and harmonious, 
even if the people are from different 
localities and of varying social and 
religious views. 

In such a home suggest a trunk 
party. Each one is to go to his or 
her trunk and bring down some one 
thing to show and describe or explain 
to the assembled company. Perhaps 
you may say you have nothing of in- 
terest; but think a moment. You 
may have a curious bit of jewelry, a 
bonbon box, or card case, or other 
souvenir of some country many have 
never seen, or a photograph of some 
friend you "take for granted," but 
to others of interest, as a beautiful so- 
ciety leader, a rising yoimg author, or 
noted scholar. 

Many men are expert with the cam- 
era and have views to show, and many 
girls have collections of mounted sea- 
weeds, rare shells, or ferns, or port- 
folios of water colors of brilliant fungi 
or flowers. 

The older ladies may have fancy 
knitting or crochet, which they have 
not shown already, or embroidery. If 
the assembly be wholly of ladies, then 
some new idea or pattern for a gar- 
ment, as a kimona or neglige jacket or 
a dressy fichu. 

If you have nothing but a piece of 
string, tie a "Tom-fool's knot"; that 
is, a bow-knot in one movement after 
you pick up the string, or an elaborate 
cat's cradle, which will at least amuse 
the children present. 

After listening a while, the audience 



I04 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



will resolve itself into groups devoted 
to the subject most to their taste. 
Julia Davis Chandler. 

A Handkerchief Bazaar 
Among the novelties in church en- 
tertainments given recently is a hand- 
kerchief bazaar. Cards containing 
the following Hnes were sent out far 
and wide to the friends of all members. 

To all our friends, though far or near, 

We crave your kind attention. 

So please to lend us now your ear. 

While we a subject mention. 

The members of this society will hold, 

On a day not distant far, 

If we have been correctly told, 

A "Handkerchief Bazaar." ^ 

So this is, then, our plea in brief : 

To help our enterprise. 

You each shall send a handkerchief 

Of any kind or size. 

To be without a handkerchief, 

You know, is quite distressing. 

From every State let one be sent : 

'Twill surely be a blessing. 

Very few would refuse a handker- 
chief. Many of them were very in- 
expensive, while others were exquis- 
itely made of the sheerest linen and 
ornamented with lace, inserting, and 
hemstitching. 

The hall was most attractive, green 
and white being used throughout the 
decorations. Booths of various shapes 
were festooned with vines, which gave 
the appearance of little ivy-covered 
summer-houses, and from them hung 
a vast array of handkerchiefs of every 
conceivable style, and ranging in 
price from five cents to two and three 
dollars. The young women in charge 
of the booths wore costumes of white 
with green sashes and neck ribbons. 

The refreshments consisted of green 
and white ice-cream (vanilla and pis- 
tachio) and a white cake iced in green. 
The girls serving wore white gowns 
and little aprons and caps of green. 
Carrie May Ashton. 



A Mermaid's Carnival 

Nothing could be more exquisitely 
harmonious than the entertainment 
described below. 

The walls of the rooms were of a 
delicate shade of green with a dado 
of sea grasses and mosses, while the 
ceiling was a dream of sea-shell tints. 
Sea mosses were fastened on film}^ 
lace curtains. Hanging from the 
chandeliers were dozens of tiny scal- 
lop shells, in pairs, suspended by 
narrow sea-green ribbon. Other 
groups of shells were fastened with 
loops of ribbon to the draperies. 

The rambling studio was given over 
to fancy articles, which were offered 
for sale. There were pin-trays, fash- 
ioned from pretty shells with a shirring 
of ribbon around the edge; pin-balls, 
which were made by inserting a little 
cushion of pink velvet between a pair 
of small scallops ; and shell jewel cases. 
There were pen -wipers of chamois 
skin and needlebooks of white flannel 
with shell covers. Several pairs of 
large shells were utilized for dainty 
home-made cook-books. One dear 
little novelty consisted of a number 
of appropriate Scripture verses, let- 
tered in gold on creamy unruled linen 
paper, inserted between a pair of shells. 
There were other shells with blank 
pages within arranged for addresses, 
visits, records of books read, enter- 
tainments attended, and memorandas. 

Small silken bags were fastened in 
some of the shells. Those could be 
utilized for various purposes. 

Some fine views, taken by an am- 
ateur photographer, were neatly 
mounted and fastened between a 
beautiful pair of shells. The prices 
asked were reasonable, and the en- 
tertainment was well patronized 

The dining-room was a S3^mphony 
in silver and green. Asparagus, ferns, 
and feathery grasses were festooned 



Training Schools for Houseworkers 



105 



from the corners and sides to the 
centre of the room, where they cul- 
minated in a graceful mass of greens. 
There was a miniature lake in the 
centre of the table, banked with moss 
and feathery grasses. Green , candles 
in silver candlesticks with silver and 
green shades shed a soft light over the 
table. 

Several tete-a-tete tables were ar- 
ranged around the dining-room. A 
mmiber of larger tables were on the 
spacious veranda, which opened off 
from the dining-room. Here was 
served a dainty and delicious repast 
of simple light refreshments, accord- 
ing to the hour or as the guests pre- 
ferred. The menu, which was served 
in shells, is given below : — 



Clam Bouillon. 
Fish Souffle (baked in scallop shells). 
Cress Sandwiches. 
Olives. Salted Nuts. 
Fish Salad. 
Salted Wafers. 
Ices (in the form of seashells). 
Cakes (iced in green). 
Cream Patties. 

The Reception Committee were veri- 
table sea nymphs in their costumes 
of pale green tulle or mull, and deli- 
cate coral and silver girdles and neck- 
laces. 

The shells used in this entertain- 
ment were all gathered at the sea- 
shore, and carefully cleaned before 
packing. 

Carrie May Ash ton. 



rainin 



Schools for Houseworkers 

By Gwendolyn Stewart 
'Third Paper 



IN New York City an effort has 
been made to train houseworkers 
in two institutions, . the Clara de 
Hirsch Home and Training School for 
Working Girls, and the Wilson Indus- 
trial School for Girls. During the 
last year a very successful training 
class has been conducted in the former 
institution. The work has been in 
charge of a recent graduate of the 
Domestic Science Department of 
Pratt Institute. A class of ten was 
formed in the early fall, and, after 
nine months of thorough training in 
all forms of household work, the mem- 
bers were ready to accept positions 
upon three months' probation. If 
successful work is done during that 
time, certificates of proficiency will 
be granted them. The training has 



been largely practical. They have 
been given class work in cookery in 
a regular class-room kitchen for six 
months. During the next three 
months they were divided into squads 
of four. Bach squad was given spe- 
cific practical work. The cookery 
squad prepared regular meals for 
their instructor, the resident direct- 
ress of the home, and two guests. 
The laundry squad did the laundry 
work for the class, their instructor, and 
the resident directress. The chamber- 
work squad had charge of four rooms 
in the home. Each afternoon one- 
half hour's work in English was given. 
The members of the class were free to 
make outside engagements for the 
evening, and several had constant 
engagements as waitresses or assist- 



io6 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



ants at evening dinners or receptions. 
They received twenty-five cents per 
hour for their services. 

The Wilson Industrial School for 
Girls is supported for the purpose of 
training poor girls for household work. 
The children come from very poor 
homes, — so poor that they are not 
able to attend the public schools. 
The Wilson Mission provides them 
with clothing, luncheon, and instruc- 
tion. Girls from five to fourteen 
years of age are admitted. They are 
taught regular school work, and, in 
addition, sewing, cookery, and general 
household service. A thorough course 
in kitchen garden is given the younger 
girls. Cookery lessons are now given 
only twice a week, but a vigorous 
effort is being made to secure funds 
for daily lessons. The care of the 
school and of the matron's home gives 
the scope for practical training in 
general housework. 

"The lessons given in cooking and 
kitchen garden training show good 
results by increase of method and 
neatness in the homes." At the an- 
nual exhibition many of the dishes 
had been made by the children in 
their own homes, and then brought 
to the school for exhibition. At the 
age of fourteen the children are dis- 
charged; that is, just at an age when 
they are ready for professional train- 
ing. They are far too young, under- 
grown as they are, to be able to take 
responsible positions in homes. But 
into homes they do not and will not 
go. They prefer factory life, with 
its independence and freedom. Many 
applications are received at the school 
for trained workers, but the children 
will not accept them. Here, it seems, 
is the place for a training school for 
houseworkers to fit in, and take the 
girls for another two years of special 
training in household work and allied 
studies. 



This need, which is experienced by 
many other institutions having the 
care of girls until the}^ are twelve or 
fourteen years of age, is filled, in part, 
by the Brooklyn Training School and 
Home for Young Girls. It is sup- 
ported by the Brooklyn Board of As- 
sociated Charities. Girls are taken 
from twelve to sixteen years of age. 
If ready for work at sixteen, they are 
secured positions, as assistants, in 
homes, and are allowed to go out on 
probation. If they prove unequal to 
their duties in the home, they are 
recommitted to the school. All the 
work of the training school and home 
is done by the girls under the guidance 
of instructors. Although the condi- 
tions are extremely simple and plain, 
a thorough training is given in neat- 
ness and cleanliness. A visit to the 
home reveals the most perfect order 
and scrupulous cleanliness. Even a 
year in such a home cannot fail to 
leave the most lasting and effective 
imprint upon the girl's consciousness 
of order and neatness. The laundry 
work and sewing are also done by the 
girls. In the afternoon, school ses- 
sions for instruction in the common 
school branches are held. When 
ready for engagements, the girls are 
recommended as household assistants. 
Positions are secured for them in 
homes where the housewife superin- 
tends and assists in the preparation 
of the meals, and directs herself each 
day's programme. It is felt that these 
girls, being in many cases immature, 
need the influence and sympathetic 
watching of a mature and thoughtful 
mind. The demand for the girls far 
exceeds the supply, 

A committee of women in Williams- 
port, Pa., started a training school for 
girls, in March, 1895. "Its object is 
the training and care of homeless 
girls for the useful occupation of do- 
mestic service." The age of admis- 



Trainlner Schools for Houseworkers 



107 



sion is from seven to fifteen years. 
The school accommodates from forty 
to fifty inmates. The children attend 
the public school until twelve years 
of age. For the remaining four years 
they receive special training in all 
forms of household work. At the 
age af sixteen, positions are easily 
secured for them. The school is now 
conducted on an annual allowance 
from the State legislature, with some 
assistance from the city poor board 
and annual contributions from the 
women of the committee. 

The Philadelphia School of House- 
keeping, like that of Boston, records 
a similar increase in the number en- 
rolled in employers' classes, and a 
gradual decrease and final abandon- 
ment of employees' classes. The 
Housekeepers' Alliance of Philadel- 
phia was formed, in 1898, by a com- 
mittee of ladies, who conceived the 
idea of establishing a school of house- 
keeping. "The object of the school 
is, primarily, to furnish the household 
market a body of skilled workers, and 
thereby raise such labor to the dignity 
of other trades and professions." The 
classes organized for employers and 
employees experienced a growth and 
decline parallel to that of the School 
of Housekeeping in Boston. The re- 
ports for the three years of work give 
the following record of students en- 
rolled in classes : — 



I'erzr. 
1 899- 1 900 
1 900- 1 90 1 
I9OI-1902 



Employees. 


Employers. 


21 


5 


15 


29 


I 


27 



This year the school has not had 
enough applications to justify the 
formation of any classes for employees, 
the one employee enrolled having 
entered a waitress' class for employers, 
as no class can be formed for less than 
ten students. 

Barring conclusions based upon the 



experiences of the Boston and the 
Philadelphia Schools of Housekeeping, 
agreement must be with Miss Salmon's 
belief that a school for employers and 
employees cannot exist in democratic 
America. And yet, when the suc- 
cessful development of the Training 
School for Domestics, conducted by 
the Boston Y. W. C. A., which also 
conducts a Normal Department of 
Domestic Science, is considered, such 
a conclusion does not seem fully, justi- 
fiable. It is extremely interesting to 
find in the same city the most success- 
ful and the most unsuccessful school 
for the training of houseworkers. 
Cancelling all inequalities of environ- 
ment and personnel of the tvv^o insti- 
tutions, the failure must be attributed, 
apparently, to differences in manage- 
ment, and not to intrinsic difhculties 
in the problem. 

Though recognizing the differences 
in social conditions, the rise and de- 
velopment of the training schools in 
England and on the continent of 
Europe should awaken a keener en- 
thusiasm for the establishment of 
such schools in our own country. 
Two difficulties for consideration are, 
the expense and the social status of 
such schools. The first difficulty can 
be overcome by adopting the Conti- 
nental method of conducting a laundry 
and restaurant in connection w4th the 
school. The most suggestive locality 
for such a school is in a college town 
or in a city, where the students at- 
tending the higher institutions of edu- 
cation are non-residents of the city. 
The students would provide ample 
means and scope for work during 
nine months of the year, while, dur- 
ing the summer, the pupils in train- 
ing could secure probationary posi- 
tions in the country. As regards the 
social status of the school, time and 
success will give it a standard of its 
own. 




mxies 



nswcxs. 



THIS department is for the benefit and free use of our subscribers. Questions relating to 
menus and recipes, and those pertaining to culinary science and domestic economics in gen- 
eral, will be cheerfully answered by the editor. Communications for this department must reach 
us before the first of the month preceding that in which the answers are expected to appear. 
In letters requesting answer by mail, please enclose postage stamp; for menus, ;^i. Address 
queries to Janet M. Hill, Editor Boston Cooking-School Magazine, 372 Boylston Street, Boston, 
Mass. 



Query 767. — Mrs. J. T., Boston, Mass.: 
"Recipe for maple parfait." 

Maple Parfait 
Heat one cup of maple syrup to 
the boiling-point, and pour, very 
gradually, in a fine stream onto the 
beaten yolks of eight eggs. Return 
the mixture to the fire, and cook over 
hot water, stirring constantly until 
the mixture coats the back of the 
spoon. Remove to a dish of cold 
water, and beat occasionally until 
cold. Then pour over one pint of 
double cream, beaten solid, and cut 
and fold the two together. Turn 
into a three-pint mould, filling the 
mould to overflow. Cover with a 
piece of wrapping paper, press the 
cover down over the paper, which 
should come out beyond the mould 
on all sides, and pack in equal meas- 
ures of salt and crushed ice. lyCt 



stand three or four hours before serv- 
ing. 

Query 768. — Mrs. W. W., Georgetown, 
S.C. : "Recipe for sweet pickles made of 
whole small fruit or vegetables." 

Small Cucumber Sweet Pickles 
Place the cucumbers in a dish with 
half a cup of salt to two quarts of 
cucumbers. Cover with boiling water, 
and let stand over night. In the 
morning remove them from the brine, 
place in a granite kettle, cover with 
vinegar, to which have been added 
half a cup of whole mustard seed, 
whole cloves, and cinnamon, mixed, 
and one cup of sugar. Let come to 
the boiling-point, but not boil. Put 
in cans or bottles, and seal while hot. 

Green Tomato Sweet Pickles 
Remove a thin slice from the bios- 



Queries and Answers 



109 



som ends and the hard portion around 
the stems of one peck of tomatoes. 
Slice the tomatoes, sprinkle with one 
cup of salt, and set aside over night. 
In the morning drain and boil fifteen 
minutes in two quarts of boiling water 
and one quart of vinegar. Then 
drain again. Cook together ten min- 
utes one gallon of cider vinegar, two 
pounds of sugar (less sugar may be 
used, if desired), three red-pepper 
pods, cut in strips, one tablespoonful 
of white mustard seed, whole, and 
one cup of cinnamon bark, ginger 
root, mace, and whole cloves, mixed 
in such proportions as are desired. 
Add the tomato, and simmer gently 
about one hour, stirring occasionally. 
Remove the spices, which, with the 
exception of the red pepper that is 
to be left in the pickle, have been 
tied in a muslin bag, and store in 
fruit jars. Let the syrup completely 
cover the slices of tomato. 

Sweet Pickled Peaches 
Pour scalding water over the peaches, 
a few at a time, drain quickly, and 
push oif the skin from each. Press 
into each peach three or four cloves. 
Have ready, for seven pounds of 
peaches, a syrup made by boiling 
five pounds of sugar and one pint of 
vinegar with two-thirds a cup of stick 
cinnamon and a cup of water. Let 
the peaches cook in the syrup, cov- 
ered, until they seem scalded through- 
out, then set aside until the next 
morning. Scald the peaches and 
syrup a second time, and set aside 
as before. The third morning heat 
the peaches and syrup to the boiling- 
point, drain the peaches, and store 
in jars. Let the syrup cook until 
reduced to the consistency of mo- 
lasses, and pour over the peaches in 
the jars. Adjust the rubbers and 
covers as in canning fruit. Use the 
the same recipe for pears. Cook the 



pears until tender the first day, re- 
duce the syrup, and fill and seal the 
jars at once. The skin is often re- 
tained, when the pears are of the 
Sickel variety. If other varieties are 
selected, it is preferable to pare before 
cooking. 

Query 769.— Mrs. W. H. C, Kentucky: 
"Recipes for pink rose leaf-and-nasturtium 
blossom salad. Is the chicken for salad 
marinated before or after cooking, and how 
is it done? Give recipes for cold fruit 
soups. Tell how to serve, and what to 
serve with them." 

Rose Petals and Nasturtium 
Blossoms in Salads 
Rose petals are used to garnish 
a fruit salad, and nasturtium blos- 
soms a vegetable, meat, or fish salad. 
The petals or blossoms are sprinkled 
over the salad after it is dressed, in 
the place of chopped fine herbs. 
Rose petals are a particularly ap- 
propriate finish for a peach salad, 
though the peach and rose season 
are not the same. The dressing 
for such a salad is a sprinkling of 
sugar, sugar and cream, sugar and 
lemon juice, or sugar and maraschino. 
Nasturtium blossoms make a partic- 
ularly suitable garnish for a potato, 
lamb, or any kind of fish (except 
salmon, red snapper, and shrimp) 
salad. The dressing may be French, 
mayonnaise, or "boiled." 

Marinating Chicken Salad 
Cut the cooked chicken into small 
pieces, not more than half an inch 
square, removing all skin and unedi- 
ble portions. Stir throughout a pint 
of the pieces three or four tablespoon- 
fuls of oil, into which salt and pepper 
have been mixed as required. If the 
meat was salted during the cooking, 
but little, if any, will be needed. 
Sprinkle over a few drops of onion 
juice and about two tablespoonfuls 



I lO 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



of lemon juice or vinegar, mix thor- 
oughly, and set aside in a cool place. 
When ready to serve, drain, — to 
avoid liquefying the heavier dressing, 
— and mix with mayonnaise or boiled 
dressing, enough to hold the ingredi- 
ents together. Add more dressing 
as a garnish or serve in a dish apart. 

Cold Fruit Soups 
The serving of cold fruit soups is 
a custom borrowed from the Ger- 
mans, and is a good way to make use 
of fruits of second quality that could 
not be presented in a natural condi- 
tion. These soups are served as a 
first course at luncheon or teas in 
little cups of china or glass. Maca- 
roons or any plain sweet cracker may 
accompany the soup. Sippets of toast 
are also served. These soups, being 
sweetened, are, obviously, more ap- 
propriate for teas and banquets than 
for luncheons. 

Cherry-and-Pineapple Soup 
Stone a cup of sour cherries, and 
set aside to serve in the soup. Cut 
one or two slices of pineapple into 
cubes, and set aside with the cherries. 
Grate the rest of a pineapple, crack 
the cherry stones, and add the kernels, 
with a pint of cherries and a quart 
of water, to the grated pineapple, 
let cook twenty minutes. Mix half 
a cup of sugar with two teaspoonfuls 
of arrowroot, and stir into the hot 
soup. Tet cook ten minutes. Then 
strain, and set aside to cool. 



QuSRY 770.— Mrs. E. S. W., Olney, 111.: 
"Kindly tell when to cut and how to cook 
the Globe or French artichoke. I have 
boiled them in salted water and served with 
melted butter. In what other ways may 
they be prepared for the table?" 

Globe or French Artichokes 
A portion of the undeveloped blos- 



som of the French artichoke is the 
part that is eaten. The plant has 
leaves from three to four feet long. 
The flower stem is from three to four 
feet high and branched. Each branch 
supports a blossom very similar to 
the large purple thistles so common 
in August by the roadside and in 
pastures. The broadened axis of the 
flower is the principal edible portion. 
This is the part put up in cans for 
exportation to this country, and is 
known as the artichoke heart or 
bottom. The top of this broad axis 
is covered by a mass of purple flower- 
ets, which are removed after cooking 
and before sending to the table. Upon 
the sides of this axis are several rows, 
one above the other, of sepals, which 
together constitute the calyx. A por- 
tion of the lower ends of these sepals 
is also edible. The artichokes are 
cut for the table before the bud is ex- 
panded enough to show the bluish- 
purple color within. 

Preparation for Cooking 
To prepare for cooking, pull off all 
coarse or discolored sepals, and cut 
the stem close to the sepals. Set to 
cook in boiling salted water. Re- 
move and drain as soon as the 
"heart" is tender. Pull back the 
sepals, and with a small spoon take 
out the purple flowerets. The outer 
ones resemble the sepals in shape, 
the inner ones correspond exactly 
to the purple part of a thistle. 

Serving Artichokes 
To serve plain, cut into quarters, 
lengthwise, and dispose on a dish 
provided with a drainer, or, lacking 
this, upon a hot napkin. Serve the 
sauce in a dish apart. A portion of the 
sepals and bottom compose each ser- 
vice. The artichokes are sometimes 
thus cut before cooking. Any sauce 
appropriate for asparagus is appropri- 



Queries and Answers 



III 



ate for artichokes, as, when hot, pro- 
vide Hollandaise, Bechamel, or drawn 
butter, or, when cold, French or may- 
onnaise dressing. In serving individ- 
ual portions, pour the sauce over the 
bottom or upon the plate beside the 
portion. To eat, pull off the sepals 
with the fingers, dip the lower end 
into the sauce, and draw between the 
closed teeth. The "bottom" is eaten 
with a fork. As a salad, tongue, 
chicken, eggs, cucumber, lettuce, or 
endive, may be added to increase the 
bulk. The sepals would be used 
only as a garnish. In the illustration, 
page 87, the cooked heart of the arti- 
choke, set upon a round of toast, is 
filled with cooked peas and string 
beans mixed with white sauce. A 
particularly elegant way of serving 
the hearts is with forcemeat : ' ' stuffed 
artichoke bottoms" would be the 
designation. Chicken forcemeat, or 
a forcemeat such as is used for stuffed 
tomatoes or egg plant, is heaped upon 
the parboiled-and-cleaned "heart," 
which is then cooked in the oven with 
frequent basting. A rich sauce ac- 
companies the dish. See also page 
6, June- July issue, 1902. 



Query 771. — Miss A. j. H., Boston: "Rec- 
ipes for egg timbales, curry sauce, corn tim- 
bales, chestnut timbales, and baba cakes." 

Egg Timbales 

Beat six eggs without separating 
the whites and yolks. Add a scant 
teaspoonful of salt, a dash of pepper, 
a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, 
twenty drops of onion juice, and 
one cup and a half of rich milk. Mix 
thoroughly, and pour into well-but- 
tered timbale moulds. Cook, set on 
folds of paper, surrounded by hot 
water, until the centres are firm. 
Turn from the moulds onto a hot 
platter, and surround with 



Curry Sauce 
Melt three tablespoonfuls of but- 
ter. When the bubbling ceases, cook 
in this three tablespoonfuls of flour 
and one of curry powder, also a scant 
half -teaspoonful of salt. Add grad- 
ually a cup and a half of milk or 
white stock, or half and half, and a 
few drops of onion juice. If preferred, 
a slice of onion may be cooked, with- 
out browning, in the butter, before 
the flour and curry powder are added. 
When the sauce boils after all the 
liquid has been added, it is ready to 
serve. 

Corn Timbales 
Follow the recipe for pea timbales, 
substituting grated corn for the puree 
of peas. 

Chestnut Timbales 

Use the recipe -given for pea tim- 
bales, substituting chestnut pulp for 
the pea pulp. Shell the chestnuts, 
cook in boiling water till tender, then 
drain, and press through a sieve. As 
the pulp is dry, use two or three more 
tablespoonfuls of cream or milk than 
is designated for pea timbales. 

Baba Cakes 
Make a sponge of a cake of com- 
pressed yeast, softened in half a cup 
of scalded-and-cooled milk, and a 
little flour. Weigh out one pound of 
flour, and use a portion for the sponge. 
Put the rest of the flour into a mixing- 
bowl, add ten ounces (one cup and 
a fourth) of softened (not melted) 
butter, one tablespoonful of sugar, 
one-fourth a teaspoonful of salt, and 
three eggs, and work the whole togeth- 
gether until smooth. Then add five 
eggs, one at a time, beating in each 
egg, carefully, before another is added. 
When all the eggs are added, the 
mixture should be very smooth. 



I 12 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



When the sponge is Hght, beat it 
into the egg mixture. When again 
very smooth, turn into well-buttered 
baba moulds, letting the mixture 
half fill the moulds. Let rise nearly 
to the top of the moulds, then bake 
from fifteen to fifty minutes accord- 
ing to the size of the moulds. Serve 
hot, on a folded napkin, with the sauce 
(a highly flavored sugar syrup or 
a fruit sauce) in a dish apart, or 
serve without the napkin, wdth the 
sauce poured over the cakes. 

Apricot Sauce 
Boil one cup of sugar, three-fourths 
a cup of water, half a cup of apricot 
jam, and the juice of two lemons 
five minutes. Strain, and it is ready 
for use. 

QuBRY 772. — K. P. P., Marblehead, Mass. : 
"Recipes for English muffins, coffee sauce 
for vanilla ice-cream, and potpourri made 
of rose petals." 

English Muffins 

Late at night, add to one cup of 
milk, scalded and cooled, four table- 
spoonfuls of sugar, one egg, well 
beaten, one-third a teaspoonful of 
salt, one-third a yeast cake, dissolved 
in half a cup of milk, scalded and 
cooled, two tablespoonfuls of warmed 
butter, and flour to make a rather 
thick sponge. Beat thoroughly, and 
set aside, covered, until morning. 
Beat again, and, when light, a second 
time, bake in well-buttered muffin 
rings in the oven, or on a griddle. In 
using the griddle, butter it thoroughly, 
arrange the buttered rings upon it, 
and put the thick batter into the 
rings very carefully, so as not to dis- 
turb the bubbles of gas. Fill the 
rings to two- thirds their height. When 
baked on one side, turn the muffins 
and rings together and bake on the 
other side. 



CoflFee Sauce for Ice-cream 
Boil one cup of clear black coffee 
and one cup of sugar five minutes. 



Cool before serving. 



Coffee Sauce No. 2 

Make a boiled custard of a cup of 

clear black coffee, the yolks of three 

eggs, and one-third a cup of sugar. 

When cold, add a cup of thick cream. 

Rose Potpourri 
Have ready partly dried rose petals, 
lavender and orange blossoms and 
violets, also mint, thyme, sweet mar- 
joram, sweet basil, rose geranium, 
bay, and verbena leaves. The pro- 
portions of the various leaves and 
blossoms may be selected at pleas- 
ure. In this case use pounds of rose 
petals to ounces of the other ingredi- 
ents. Put the blossoms and leaves 
into a jar having a close-fitting cover, 
in layers, alternately, with a slight 
sprinkling of salt. Use about an 
ounce of salt to a pound of half-dry 
m.aterials. Set aside in a cool, dark 
place for a month, stirring once every 
twenty-four hours. Now add dried 
cinnamon, mace, cloves, orris root, 
lemon and orange peel, broken or 
cut in tiny pieces. For each quart 
of leaves procure a cup of cider vine- 
gar. Put the materials into the orna- 
mental jar in layers, sprinkling each 
layer with the cider. Cover, and let 
stand undisturbed a month or more. 
It will keep its delightful fragrance 
and in good condition several years. 



Query 773. — Evanston subscriber : "What 
forms were used to make the meringues 
shown on page 32 of the June-July, 1903, 
number of this magazine?" 

Forms for Meringues 
No forms were used. The meringues 
were shaped with the paper bag 
shown in the illustration. If the 



Queries and Answers 



113 



ordinary duck or bed-ticking bag be 
preferred, use a plain tube. The 
mixture must be very stiff. Press 
out mixture to make the size of 
meringue required, raise the tube or 
paper funnel, and, without breaking 
the flow, press again, narrowing the 
diameter. Continue in this way until 
the meringue is of the requisite height. 



Query 774.— Mrs. T. B. W., St. Paul, 
Minn.: "Why does macaroni flatten when 
put into cold water after boiling? I wish 
to make macaroni timbales, using the pipes 
of macaroni full length." - 

Macaroni for Lining Timbale 

Moulds 
To retain the shape of macaroni, 
try cooking a shorter time. 



Query 775. — A. P., New York City: "How 
much longer does it take to steam than to 
boil vegetables? How long to steam bak- 
ing-powder biscuit for pot-pie, when they 
are put over the veal, not into the water? 
When substituting cocoa for chocolate, in 
cake-making, how much cocoa should be used, 
to equal two squares of chocolate ? How are 
small cakes frosted smoothly that are not 
dipped in fondant ? In using an oven ther- 
mometer, will the tube break if put into the 
hot oven? What should it register for 
bread, and what for cake? Can an oven 
thermometer be used to test syrup ? How 
is mousse pronounced?" 

Length of Time to steam Vege- 
tables 
Vegetables that could be boiled 
in twenty minutes would probably 
require about thirty or forty minutes 
to steam. 

Length of Time to steam Dump- 

Hngs 
Dumplings should either be put 
upon a buttered pan in a steamer 
over the meat, or they may rest di- 
rectly upon the meat, if this rise above 
the liquid in which it is cooked. 
In either case, dumplings the size of 



an ordinary biscuit will cook in from 
fifteen to twenty minutes. The lat- 
ter is safest, as dumplings are not 
wholesome, unless they be thoroughly 
cooked, while long cooking does not 
injure them. 

Cocoa and Chocolate 
Half a cup of cocoa, which weighs 
two ounces, may be substituted for 
two squares or ounces of chocolate. 

Frosting Small Cakes 
Use sifted confectioner's sugar, and 
--mix to a paste with boiling water 
or a hot sugar syrup. Make the 
syrup by boiling equal measures of 
sugar and water five minutes. The 
frosting should be of a consistency 
to remain in place and mask the cake, 
and yet to run smoothly. The fol- 
lowing recipe has been found satis- 
factory. 

Chocolate Icing with Syrup 
Melt two ounces of chocolate over 
hot water, and gradually stir in half 
a cup of hot syrup, half a teaspoonful 
of vanilla extract, one-fourth a tea- 
spoonful of ground cinnamon, and 
sifted confectioner's sugar as needed. 
The frosting may be poured over the 
cakes — a silver knife is sometimes 
needed to finish the sides; but the 
frosting must be used at once — or the 
cakes dipped into it. Hot water in- 
stead of syrup will also give good 
results. 

Oven Thermometer 

The most satisfactory thermome- 
ters are those that are set in the oven 
door. They are more properly heat 
indicators than thermometers. The 
best modern ranges are supplied 
with them. But any stove dealer 
will procure and set one in place. 
Different makes register differently, 
and relative rather than actual h^.ic 



114 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



of the oven is indicated. An oven 
thermometer cannot be used to test 
syrup. A sugar thermometer regis- 
ters the degree of heat attained by 
boihng syrup. A syrup gauge shows 
the density of liquids to which syrup 
has been added. It is not customary 
to use the gauge in liquids at the 
boiling-point. Do not think they 
would stand the heat. 

Pronunciation of Mousse 
Mousse is pronounced as though 
spelled moose. 



Query 776. — A. A. S., Brooklyn, N.Y. : 
" Recipe and explicit directions for making 
and baking tender, flaky pie crust. How 
are tarts baked to have a scalloped edge? 
Recipe for custard pie, and how to bake, to 
secure an under crust that is not 'soggy. 
Recipes for grape juice jelly, cottage pudding, 
with grape juice sauce, and chocolate blanc- 
mange." 

Flaky Pastry 
Wash half a cup of butter in cold 
water, to remove the salt and render 
the butter pliable. Pat with the 
hands, to remove the water, and 
form into thin rectangular shape. 
Let stand to become chilled. Sift 
together three cups of sifted flour 
and half a teaspoonful of salt. With 
the tips of the fingers, an ordinary 
knife or a chopping-knife, work half 
a cup of shortening into the flour 
and salt. When the shortening is 
in tiny particles and the mixture 
resembles meal, add cold water 
gradually, a little in a place. 
Use in all about three-eighths 
of a cup. As the water is added, 
mix the ingredients to a paste with 
a knife. When all the particles in 
the bowl are in one mass, turn onto the 
floured board, move about with the 
knife, to coat slightly with flour, then 
knead a few m.oments. Cover with 
a cloth, and let stand five minutes, 
then pat with a rolling-pin, and roll 



out into a rectangular sheet. Put 
the butter in the centre of the paste, 
fold over the sides, then turn one end 
over, and the other end under, the 
enclosed butter. Pat and roll out 
into a rectangular strip, keeping the 
ends even. Fold to make three even 
layers, turn half-way round upon the 
board, and roll again into a narrow 
rectangular sheet. Fold, turn, and 
roll as before, when the paste is ready 
to use. 

Scalloped Edge of Tarts 
Tarts are shaped with cutters that 
have a scalloped edge. 

Custard Pie 
Beat four eggs until a spoonful 
can be taken up. Add half a tea- 
spoonful of salt and two-thirds a cup 
of sugar,, and beat again thoroughly. 
Then beat in, gradually, two cups 
and a half of milk. Turn into a deep 
plate lined with pastry. Put the 
paste on the tin so as to exclude the 
air, and brush over the inner surface 
with beaten white of egg, to aid in 
keeping out the liquid. To line the 
plate, have the paste rolled about 
an inch larger all around than the 
plate, fold under the edge of paste, 
so that, when the double fold is brought 
to an upright position, the cut edge 
will meet the plate. Flute this fold 
with the thumb and finger, pressing 
each "flute" close to the plate. The 
paste should be of firm consistency. 
Bake until the custard is firm to the 
touch. The custard should not boil 
during the cooking. If the oven is 
too hot, slide a tin sheet or asbestos 
mat under the pie. 

Grape Juice Jelly 
Soften one-third a two-ounce pack- 
age of gelatine in one-third a cup of 
cold water, and dissolve by setting the 
dish in hot water. Add one pint of 



Queries and Answers 



i'5 



grape juice, the juice of half or a whole 
lemon, and two-thirds a cup of sugar. 
Stir until the sugar is dissolved, then 
pour into a mould. 

Cottage Pudding 
Cream one-fourth a cup of butter, 
add gradually half a cup of sugar, 
then one egg, well beaten, and, alter- 
nately, half a cup of milk and one cup 
and a half of flour, sifted with two and 
a half teaspoonfuls of baking-powder. 

Grape Juice Sauce 
Boil a cup and a half of grape juice 
and a cup of sugar five minutes, stir 
in a teaspoonful of cornstarch or 
arrowroot, mixed with water to pour, 
and continue cooking six or eight 
minutes. Add the juice of half a 
lemon and a teaspoonful of butter. 

Chocolate Blanc Mange 
Dissolve an ounce of chocolate over 
hot water. Add one-third a cup of 
sugar, and, gradually, one-third a cup 
of boiling water, and stir and cook 
until smooth. Soften half a two- 
ounce package of gelatine in half a 
cup of cold water, and dissolve in a 
cup of hot cream or rich milk. Add 
the chocolate mixture, a second third 
of a cup of sugar, a teaspoonful of 
vanilla extract, a few grains of salt, 
and one cup and a fourth of cream. 
Stir occasionally until the mixture 
begins to thicken. 

Chocolate Blanc Mange with 
Cornstarch 
Scald one quart of milk. Dissolve 
two squares of chocolate over hot 
water, add one-fourth a cup of sugar, 
and stir in, gradually, about half a 
cup of boiling water. Stir and cook 
until smooth, then add to the hot 
milk. Dilute half a cup of cornstarch 
with cold milk to pour, add half a 
teaspoonful of salt, and stir into the 



hot milk. Cook, stirring occasionally, 
fifteen or twenty minutes, then fold 
in the whites of three eggs, beaten 
very foamy, but not dry. Turn into 
moulds rinsed in cold water and set 
aside to become chilled and firm. 
By adding three (possibly two will be 
enough) level tablespoonfuls of corn- 
starch, the whites of eggs may be 
omitted, but the dish will not be as 
delicate. 

Query 777. Mrs. J. A. K., De Kalb, 111. : 
"Recipes for cooking Brussels sprouts and 
kohl rabi." 

Brussels Sprouts, Buttered 
Trim the stalks and remove dis- 
colored leaves. Freshen by letting 
stand in cold water an hour or more. 
Drain and cover with plenty of boiling 
salted water ; let cook until tender, 
from fifteen to thirty minutes. (Too 
long cooking causes them to lose 
color.) Drain, and return to the 
fire with about two tablespoonfuls of 
butter for a quart of sprouts. Gently 
toss the sprouts with a spoon and 
fork to mix with the butter, and add 
a sprinkling of salt, if needed. Serve 
in a hot dish. A cup of cream, Bech- 
amel or Hollandaise sauce, may replace 
the butter. 

Kohl Rabi 
Kohl rabi is cooked and served in 
any of the ways in which turnips are 
prepared. Pared and cut in half- 
inch slices, it will cook in half an 
hour in rapidly boiling salted water. 
Cream, Bechamel, and Hollandaise 
sauces are served with boiled kohl 
rabi. It is good cold with French or 
mayonnaise dressing. Cheese sauce 
is a good addition, though less fre- 
quently seen. Kohl rabi au gratin 
with cheese is another form in which 
it may be presented. For this dish 
the cooked vegetable is cut in small 
cubes. 




Notes and 
Correspondence 



Address communications for this department 
to Janet M. Hill, Editor of the Boston Cook- 
ing-School Magazine, 372 Boylston Street, 
Boston, Mass. 




Detroit, Mich., June lo, 1903. 
Mrs. Janet M. Hill, Boston, Mass : 

Dear Madam, — In reference to 
Query 754, E. F. W., would like to 
say that a transparent meat gravy 
can be made by using cornstarch in- 
stead of flour for thickening. 

Very truly, 

N. O. S. 

Arrowroot will give a more trans- 
parent sauce than cornstarch. Gravy 
and sauce are by no means synony- 
m.ous words. — /. M. H. 



St. John, N.B., June 5. 
Editor of the Boston Cooking-School 
Magazine: 

Dear Madam, — Living, as I do, in a 
country abundantly supplied with 
blue blueberries and red cranberries, 
besides many other varieties, such as 
greyhound cranberries, rock cran- 
berry, marsh cranberry, etc., I was 
deeply interested in the article in the 
June- July number of the Cooking- 
School Magazine by Julia Davis Chand- 
ler. 

I do not agree with her that blue- 
berries require spice of any kind, or 
lemon juice or juice of any other fruit. 
They have a flavor all their own, and 
require nothing to make them the 
most luscious of fruit. Neither are 
they too sweet, as it takes quite a 
quantity of sugar, in cooking, to bring 
out fully their flavor. 



I will give 3^ou a few of the 
recipes, handed down to me, of my 
united empire, Loyalist great-grand- 
mothers. 

Blueberry Pie 

Use rich pufl paste. Cover an inch 
deep, custard pie plate with thin pas- 
try; fill the plate with blueberries, a 
half -pint of sugar to a quart of blue- 
berries. Do not sift in any flour or 
foreign matter of any kind; put on 
top paste, cutting little slits in top to 
let out steam. Turn under the edges 
well to keep in the juice. Bake until 
well done. Never use molasses in 
blueberries. 

Blueberry Roll 

Put a quart of blueberries in a por- 
celain pudding-dish and sprinkle over a 
half-pint of white sugar. Make a 
dumpling paste of two cups of flour, 
four teaspoonfuls of baking-powder, a 
little salt, a tablespoonful of butter, 
and milk. Roll this out the size of 
the pudding-dish, and with it cover 
the berries. Steam about an hour. 
Serve with hard sauce. 

Blueberries make delicious preserves, 
pickles, wine, cake, griddle-cakes, 
batter pudding, etc. But spice ruins 
them. In the early fall, after one 
tires of eating them raw with cream 
and sugar (pulverized sugar always), 
thev are most delicious, stewed fresh 



Notes and Correspondence 



117 



and eaten cold, only be sure to cook 
them until quite jellied. 

I am rather jealous of the straw- 
berry, when rhubarb and blueberries 
are under discussion. Because of their 
plentifulness, and hence their cheap- 
ness, the two latter are not appre- 
ciated as they should be, and are 
prepared in a slovenly manner. The 
rhubarb in the early spring and blue- 
berries in the autumn are as delicious 
in their season, if properly treated, as 
the strawberry in its season, and they 
are much more healthful. You of 
course know all this, but I wish it 
might be brought home to providers 
of family tables. 

The many, many dishes rhubarb 
can form the foundation of is wonder- 
ful. 

The June-July number of the Cook- 
ing-School Magazine is most interest- 
ing, the article on Jamaica particu- 
larly so to me, having spent part of 
the winter of 1892 there. The little 
cut "Market Day," being the plaza 
in front of the court-house at Mander- 
ville, is very familiar, as I resided in 
a little cottage at the left of the court 
house. . 

I trust I have not made my letter 
longer than you will care to read. I 
am often tempted to write to you on 
subjects arising from articles in the 
magazine, but am usually too busy. 

Believe me as one very interested in 
your magazine. m. p. p. 

WiLLiAMSTowN, Mass., June 8, 1903. 
Bostoyi Cooking-School Magazine: 

Your magazine is all the time get- 
ting better. The last number is de- 
licious. 

There is a little point that I have 
never noticed in your pages, which has 
been quite a help in a pie-loving 
family of student fellows. The best 
way to keep the juice in a pie is to 
bind a strip of wet cloth over the edge 



just before putting the pie in the oven. 
It never fails of its object \vith even 
the juiciest pie. 

Here is a recipe for a very good 
apple pudding: Slice sour apples 
into a pudding-dish; add sugar and 
water as for stewing. Cover and bake 
until nearly tender. Sift together 
two cups of flour, three tablespoonfuls 
of baking-powder, and a scant half-tea- 
spoonful of salt. Beat one ^gg, mix 
in half a cup of sugar, two tablespoon- 
fuls of melted butter, and one cup of 
milk, then stir the latter into the dry 
ingredients. Pour the batter over 
the partly-cooked apples, and bake 
about twenty minutes. Serve with 
whipped cream or foaming sauce. 
Very truly yours, 

(Mrs.) A. P. S. 



MiNNEAPOiv'is, Minn. 
Mrs. Janet M. Hill: 

Dear Madam, — You refer occasion- 
ally in the magazine to wire whisks. 
I used one that I obtained from a 
graduate of the Boston Cooking 
School, but found it very inferior to 
the whisks that I get every year 
from Europe. I send you one of these, 
which I hope you will try. I keep 
three or four whisks of different sizes 
for special uses. One of large size is 
kept for cake, one is used to make 
white sauces, one for browning flour, 
and one for wine sauces and cremes. 
I have never used a spoon for any- 
thing but measuring since I began 
housekeeping twenty years ago. The 
whisks are sent to me from Norway, 
and are made of birch twigs. They 
can only be made in the spring just 
after the sap is in the tree. Made at 
other seasons, they would break easily 
when used. The whisks are inexpen- 
sive, twenty-five to thirty-five cents 
per dozen being the price. Try using 
one for white sauce. Stirring with 
these, you can put all the ingredients 



ii8 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



into the saucepan at once, and the 
sauce will not be lumpy. In stirring 
sponge for coffee cake, I use the whisk, 
until the batter is too stiff to be beaten. 
Yours very truly, 

(Mrs.) F. W. C. 



Kagle, Alaska. 
To the Boston Cooking School Maga- 
zine: 

Enclosed is a money order to pay 
for my subscription. The magazines 
are a great help to me. But I do 
wish there were more receipts that 
did not call for so many eggs and 
whipped cream. There are times 
when we cannot get eggs; and now 
in the summer, when they are brought 
in, they cost a dollar and a dollar and 
a half a dozen. 

There are just two cows here, and 
milk, when it is to be had, is 50 
cents a quart, — simply out of the 
question to bake or cook with. I 
use the granulated (igg and the crys- 
tallized albumen, — have very good 
success with them, — and there are 
some brands of condensed cream that 
will whip after being thoroughly 
chilled. 

I would like to send you some new 
subscribers, but this place is so small 
my numbers go the rounds of all. 
Sincerely yours, 

(Mrs.) U. G. M. 



My dear Mrs. Hill, — I have dis- 
covered in making my pickles this 
year that, by holding onions under a 
stream from the faucet, not only 
are my eyes not affected, but there 
is not the slightest suspicion of an 
odor left on my hands. a. c. r., 

Class 1902, Boston Cooking School. 

Woman's Week at Chautauqua 
In accordance with the principle 
upon which the Chautauqua pro- 
gramme is arranged, the week of July 



20-25 will be largely given up to the 
various interests of women. One day 
will be devoted to the cause of Equal 
Suffrage, and addresses will be made 
by women prominent in that move- 
ment. Another will be devoted to 
the patriotic societies among women. 
It is expected that officers prominent 
in these societies will describe the 
aims and ideals of these organiza- 
tions. 

Another day will be devoted to cer- 
tain general interests, and the chief 
address will be made by Mrs. Ormiston 
Chant, who is prominent among the 
advanced women of Great Britain. 

Still another day will be devoted 
to the interests of the Federation of 
Woman's Clubs. Leading officers of 
the State and national organizations 
will be present. Addresses and con- 
ferences will be held, and in the even- 
ing a general reception will be 
given. 

The last day will be given up to the 
consideration of organizations for la- 
boring women, and the interests of fac- 
tory and other women employees will 
be presented by those familiar with 
the problems of women wage-earners. 

It is to be hoped that this week will 
be one of the most interesting in the 
series planned for the coming summer. 
It is expected that large numbers of 
women, interested not only in some 
one of these days, but in the week as a 
whole, will be present, not only as lis- 
teners, but as participants in the con- 
ferences and other meetings, at which 
the discussion of present-day problems 
will be actively encouraged. 



The sudden death, on June 13, of 
Mrs. Edith A. Sexton, a member of 
the first Normal Class of Domestic 
Science, Armour Institute of Tech- 
nology, removes one of the most ear- 
nest and active teachers in hospital 
and settlement work. 



Notes and Correspondence 



119 



Pratt Institute Cooking School 

There is a certain sameness in the 
exhibitions of cooking schools, and 
no strikingly new features were in 
the results of this year's work at 
Pratt Institute. One large room was 
dedicated to the first-year work, 
another to the achievements of the 
advanced class. 

Great stress is laid on the scientific 
aspects of cooking, and one feature 
was the displa}^ of typical diets of 
various kinds. One table was de- 
voted to a collection of simple arti- 
cles of food of high nutritive value 
and easy of digestion, suitable for 
the use of tuberculous patients. An- 
other was given up to the typical 
diet for rheumatism, avoiding excess 
of meat and including a generous 
proportion of fruit acids, especially 
of orange and lemon, which are now 
considered to promote the alkalinity 
of the blood. Still another displayed 
various articles of food adapted, from 
their lack of sugar and starch, to the 
use of the diabetic. 

At the end of one hall an alcove was 
devoted to the diet of infants and 
children. That of the infant was 
represented by feeding bottles sup- 
plied wdth the proper quantit}^ of 
modified cow's milk for different ages*. 
This exhibit was supplemented by 
a chart showing the size of the stom- 
ach at different ages, beginning with 
a capacity of two ounces at birth. 

Two menus were shown, one for 
the child three years old, the other 
for a school child. As to the first, 
the criticism might be made that, 
w^hile the selection of food was excel- 
lent, the hours for the meals would 
be difficult to manage in most house- 
holds. Here it is: — 

6.30 A.M. Egg in bird's-nest, toast, glass 

of niilk. 
10 A.M. Glass of milk, gluten wafers, three 

tablespoonfuls of cream of wheat. 



2 P.M. Chicken bouillon, breast of chicken, 
potato balls, bread and butter, prunes. 
6 P.M. Toasted bread and milk. 

Menu for SchooIv Child 
Breakfast. — Cream of wheat, broiled mack- 
erel, cocoa, toast, fruit. 
Dinner. — Puree of peas, lamb chops, potato 
balls, creamed carrots, orange snow 
pudding. 
Supper. — Boiled rice and cream, bread and 
butter, glass of milk, baked custard, 
sponge cake. 

Another feature of the first- year 
work were three tables daintily spread, 
respectively, with a model breakfast, 
lunch, and dinner for a family in 
jTLoderate circumstances. 

Connected with the school is a very 
beautiful dining-room, recently deco- 
rated by Tiffany. Wainscoting and 
furniture are of weathered oak. ' The 
walls are painted a brownish-yellow, 
which form a delightful background 
for a good deal of blue china. The 
floor is covered with a plain dark blue 
velvet rug. Here the table was laid 
for a formal spring dinner, with straw- 
berries for the first course. These 
were served unhuUed, on small plates 
arranged around mounds of powdered 
sugar. The sugar was moulded by 
being tightly packed into the small 
end of an ^g^ cup. 

The centre of interest is always the 
dainty array of viands in the room 
devoted to advanced cooking. So 
inviting is the display that it requires 
severe self-restraint to refrain from 
using one's mouth as well as one's eyes. 

Some of the noticeable things w^ere 
a large strawberry shortcake, covered 
with pink icing and elaborately orna- 
mented by means of the pastry tube ; a 
Dutch apple cake; a great variety 
of Swedish timbales; a vol-ati-vent, 
filled with creamed mushrooms and 
surrounded by smaller editions of 
itself, not more than three inches in 
diameter; and a good many sorts 
of brioche. 



I20 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



There was a delightful kmch box 
containing jelly sandwiches, a stuffed 
egg, an orange, cookies as thin as 
wafers, and Parisian sweets; these 
last were made of equal parts of dates, 
figs, and nuts, chopped or ground 
very fine, made into little balls and 
rolled in powdered sugar. 

Among the substantials were a 
fillet of beef, larded with salt pork 
and garnished with latticed pota- 
toes, browned in the gravy of the 
roast, and a crown of lamb garnished 
with stuffed peppers, the centre of 
the crown filled with a great bunch 
of mint. 

There was a goodly variety of salads, 
though, perhaps, nothing new. There 
was a potato salad, arranged on a 
bed of slices of lemon and garnished 
with capers and nuts. Another was 
of oranges and lettuce hearts, which 
gave a very pretty combination of 
color. There was also an arrange- 
ment of radishes and watercress, a 
chicken salad, served in scooped out 
cucumbers, and one of cream cheese 
and chopped nuts, rolled into little 
balls, and served on lettuce. Another 
charming bit of color was a mould of 
tomato jelly. 

Among the sweets there was a 
goodly array of jellies and blanc- 
manges. A mould of vanilla blanc- 
mange floated in a sea of chocolate 
sauce, and was garnished with candied 
cherries. Oval moulds of orange and 
lemon jelly had segments of pulp 
embedded in their edges, making a 
flat border, when the jell}- was turned 
out. 

An exhibition of cookery has of 
necessity many limitations. This one 
was not free from them; but it was 
highly creditable to both teachers and 
pupils. — Eleanor Alison Cumming. 



$5,000, from Miss Caroline Phelps 
Stokes, for the endowment of a schol- 
arship in domestic science. The schol- 
arship will be bestowed upon the win- 
ner in a competitive examination, 
which is to be open to graduates of 
other colleges and universities. The 
demand for teachers of domestic econ- 
omy and science in institutions of all 
sorts, all through the country, shows 
the increasing interest taken in such 
subjects, and a greater appreciation 
of their ^ practical and educational 
value. The chemistry of foods and 
stimulants, as affected by the process 
of cooking, with the production, manu- 
facture, and adulteration of all food- 
stuffs, will be a part of the advanced 
work, which is planned to be as prac- 
tical as it is scientific. 



The Teachers' College of New^ York 
City has recently received the sum of 



Cool Houses 
Open windows do not necessarily 
mean cool houses. Every house 
should be well and thoroughly aired 
every morning; but just as in cold 
weather the aim of every housekeeper 
is to have a warm house, so in warm 
weather the cool house is the great 
desideratum. Open windows, with 
such air as may be moving blowing 
through the house, are commonly 
supposed to be the proper thing in 
hot weather. This is not the course 
followed in hot countries, nor is it 
the procedure suggested by experi- 
ence. A cool breeze will cool a house, 
but a warm one w411 heat it. Hot 
air should be excluded. After the 
house has been well aired in the morn- 
ing, the windows and blinds on the 
sunny side should be tightly closed 
to keep out the hot air. When the 
sun has shifted, it will be time to open 
them again. One must regulate the 
kind of air one admits into the house, 
in warm weather, if the most comfort- 
able results are to be had. — Scientific 
American. 



Notes and Correspondence 



121 



Commencement at the Boston 
Cooking School 

The graduating exercises of the 
Boston Cooking School took place on 
the afternoon of June 26. Demon- 
strations were given by the young 
women, showing the preparation of a 
lobster for cooking, the cooking of 
lobster creme in a chafing-dish, and 
the making of fruit punch. Miss 
Sarah L. Arnold, dean of Simmons 
College, gave a brief address. In the 
absence of the president and vice- 
president of the Cooking School Cor- 
poration, Mrs. Thomas Mack pre- 
sented the diplomas to the following 
young vf omen : — 

EthEi^ C. BartletT, Plymouth, Mass. 
Jane K. Broad well, Cleveland, Ohio. 
Ara M. Brooks, Southington, Conn. 
Lillian C. Brown, New Britain, Conn. 
Ethel Burnham, St. Louis, Mo. 
Ethel C. Carter, Port Colborne, Ontario, 

Can. 
Winifred CheslEy, Maiden, Mass. 
Marion W. Clark, Saybrook, Conn. 
Minnie A. Davis, Worcester, Mass. 
Anna U. Foley, Boston, Mass. 
Helen Gilson, Walpole, N.H. 
Alice C. Godwin, Grand Rapids, Mich. 
Mary L., Hunter, 
Elizabeth Hinchman, Vernon, Ind. 
Henrietta Jessup, Brooklyn, N.Y. 
Frances S. Kennedy, Auburn, N.Y. 
Sara I. Litch, Wollaston, Mass. 
Alice McCarthy, Brookiine, Mass. 
Alice McCollister, Holyoke, Mass. 
Ruth Montague, Springfield, Mass. . 
Lydia Dodge Morse, Marlboro, Mass. 
Margaret T. NewEll, West Medford, Mass . 
Ethel Oakman, Shelburne Falls, Mass. 
Harriet O'Connor, East Lansing, Mich. 
Mary Paddock, Pana, 111. 
Gertrude D. Pike, Medford, Mass. 
Mary PinkErton, White Hall, 111. 
Ella Newton Rhoades, E. Providence, R.I. 
Helen Van A. Schuyler, Bridgewater, Mass. 
Susie T. Sprout, Natick, Mass. 
Alice Whitney Stacey, Milwaukee, Wis. 
Ethel G. Sunderland, Cleveland, Ohio. 
Harriot S. Trout, Staunton, Va. 
Elizabeth Tyler, Utica, N.Y. 
Cora WEimER, Grand Rapids, Mich. 
Margaret Whedon, Lincoln, Neb. 



Edith Wise, Canton, Ohio. 
Nellie Worcester, Detroit, Mich. 
Helen R. Burgess, Plymouth, Mass. 



Mrs. S. E. W. Craig, class of 1890 
Boston Cooking School, has charge of 
the diet kitchen of the Brunton Sanita- 
rium, Avondale, Cincinnati, Ohio. 



Miss Josephine T. Dow of the Y. 
W. C. A., Montreal, Canada, and 
class of 1 90 1, Boston Cooking School, 
is attending the Summer vSchool of 
Cooking in Boston, Mass. 



Porch Furniture 
A great variety of charming porch 
furniture has come into use this year. 
Most of it is now made water-proof, 
so that it is no longer necessary to 
turn chairs up at night, move the 
table into the furthest corner, and 
bring in the rugs and cushions. The 
appearance of these articles has been 
a veritable boon to the exhausted 
householder, who has found the labor 
of bringing in everything from the 
porch at night an unpleasant ending 
to an enjoyable evening. Screen 
chairs are among the latest ideas. 
They are made wide with broad arms, 
and a seat wide enough for two, with 
a great back, high and broad enough 
to absolutely hide any occupant of 
the chair. The practical utility of 
these chairs is so very evident that 
they will doubtless enjoy a long 
maintained popularity. Porch swings 
can be made out of bamboo couches, 
with an additional railing at the back 
and foot, making both ends alike. 
These can be purchased ready for 
swinging or can be made by any in- 
genious person. The waterproof rugs 
and cushions are, perhaps, the most 
useful of recent devices for the porch, 
and are a distinct saving in labor. — 
Scientific American. 



Book Reviews 



A Book of Salads. By Alfred 

Suzanne and C. Herman Senn. 

Cloth. Price i^-. 6d. London: Food 

and Cookery. 

This is a translation from the 
French of Monsieur Suzanne's "L'Art 
de preparer et d'accommoder les 
Salads." In his preface to the book 
C. Herman Senn writes: — 

"This book of recipes is the most 
complete work of its kind I have 
as yet seen, and, considering the fact 
that Mons. A. Suzanne is one of the 
most renowned chefs of the present 
day, this manual should find its way 
into thousands of kitchens. 

"Every recipe given reflects the 
genius of a masterhand in the art of 
making salads." 

As to the place and importance of 
salads in our daily menus, comment 
is unnecessary. The manual con- 
tains matter suitable to supply the 
needs of many a viaitre d' hotel, cook, 
and housekeeper. 



Millionaire: Households. By Mary 
Elizabeth Carter. Cloth. Gilt top. 
303 pages. Price $1.40 net. New 
York: D. Appleton & Co. 
This is a very attractive and hand- 
some volume, — an ornament for the 
library or parlor table. It deals with 
fine living or housekeeping in detail, 
and was written evidently by one who 
has had wide acquaintance and ex- 
perience in the work. "Housekeep- 
ing," the writer says, "should be 
ranked among the fine arts, and would 
be so ranked if the majority of those 
who are at housekeeping were in it, 
and thus engaged from choice. . . . 
It is not uncommon to hear women 
declare with emphasis that they 
'hate' housekeeping. No one can 
do anything well while hating the 



work, unless governed by an un- 
flinching sense of duty and a con- 
science that permits no laxness. 
Even then the .i^sthetic touch that 
can only be secured through love of 
one's occupation will be lacking." 

Herein lies the secret of all life's 
work. To those who are concerned 
at all in the ways and routine of the 
well-managed or ideal household this 
book will especially appeal; for it is 
at once readable and instructive. 
The manners and customs that prevail 
in fine homes are described, and an 
ideal standard is set for every phase 
of the subject. The reader will find 
answered here many questions of 
etiquette and good form, in all the 
varied relations of home life. "Sim- 
ply stated," the writer concludes, 
"the only thing that will transform 
housekeeping into fine living is 'to 
do justly and love mercy.'" The 
book is a positive contribution to the 
home-maker's library. 



People of the Whirlpool. By 
the author of "The Garden of a 
Commuter's Wife." Illustrated. 
Cloth. 1 2 mo. Price $1.50. New 
York: The Macmillan Company. 
"The Garden of a Commuter's 
Wife" enjoys a distinction that is 
almost unique. It is in demand year 
after year. But, even in the con- 
sciousness of this fact, the welcome 
given at once to ' ' People of the Whirl- 
pool" was a surprise to the publishers. 
It is more charming than its prede- 
cessor, and also much more of a nar- 
rative. Glimpses of the more inter- 
esting portions of New York are fol- 
lowed by some charming chapters 
descriptive of the pleasures which 
Barbara and Evan, the twins, — for 
(Continued on page x) 



The Best 
Things to Eat 



Are made with Royal Baking Powder 
— bread, biscuit, cake, rolls, muffins, 
crusts, and all the various pastries re- 
quiring a leavening or raising agent. 

Risen with Royal Baking Powder, 
all these foods are superlatively light, 
sweet, tender, delicious and wholesome. 

Royal Baking Powder is the greatest 
of time and labor savers to the pastry 
cook. Besides, it economizes flour, 
butter and eggs, and, best of all, makes 
the food more digestible and healthful. 



There are many imitation baking powders, sold 
cheap, which contain alum. Housekeepers 
must avoid these. Alum is a poison, and its 
use in food is condemned by all physicians. 



ROYAL BAKING POWDER CO., NEW YORK. 



Book Reviews 



there are twins now, — and their 
friends enjoy in the country. Through 
the book runs a deHghtful love story. 
Many readers will perhaps like this 
book best for the sheer charm of its 
prose ; but most people will care more 
for the meat in the book, — its sound 
and optimistic and sunny philosophy, 
— and because it brings the reader 
into happy contact with a strong, 
sweet, wise, and gracious personality. 
The style is admirable and worthy 
of cultivation. The narrative does 
not excite or harass the feelings of 
the reader, but rather soothes and 
charms by its genuine naturalness. 
It deals with modern social life in 
town and country. The spirit of a 
quiet humor and cheerful philosophy 
pervades its pages. 



The Child Housekeeper. By Eliz- 
abeth Colson and Anna G. Chitten- 
den, with Music and Illustrations, 
and also an Introduction by Jacob 
A. Riis. Cloth. i2mo. Price $1.50 
7iet. New York: A. S. Barnes & Co. 
This book is the outcome of actual 
experience in teaching small girls to 
do intelligent work in their homes, 
using the materials there provided. 
Drudgery thus becomes interesting 
and pleasurable to the young people. 
As Mr. Riis says, "This is emphat- 
ically a good and a great thing to do, ' ' 
and it is in keeping with the thought 
and educational tendency of the 
day. ' ' Making two blades of grass 
grow where one grew bet ore is great; 
but to bring them into the house, 
into the kitchen, — grass, daisies, and 
all, — and the sunshme and the sum- 
mer winds and the birds with them, 
is to make happy house-mothers out 
of weary wives of the future. And, 
when that comes to pass, we shall 
not have to fight King Alcohol and 
his vassals. The war will be over. 
{Contifmed on page xii) 



Experiments 

Learn Things of Value 

Where one has never made the 
experiment of leaving off coffee and 
drinking Postuni, it is still easy to 
learn all about it by reading the ex- 
periences of others. 

Drinking Postum is a pleasant way 
to get back to health. A man of 
Lancaster, Pa., says: "My wife was 
a victim of nervousness and weak 
stomach and loss of appetite for years, 
and was a physical wreck. Although 
we resorted to numerous methods 
of relief, one of which was a change 
from coffee to tea, it was all to no 
purpose. 

"We knew coffee was causing the 
trouble, but could not find anything 
to take its place and cure the dis- 
eases until we tried Postum Food 
Coffee. In two weeks' time after we 
quit coffee and used Postum, almost 
all of her troubles had disappeared 
as if by magic. It was truly wonder- 
ful. Her nervousness was all gone, 
stomach trouble relieved, appetite 
improved, and, above all, a night's rest 
was complete and refreshing. 

"This sounds like an exaggeration, 
as it all happened so quickly; but 
we are prepared to prove it. Each 
day there is improvement for the 
better ; for the Postuni is undoubtedly 
strengthening her and giving her 
rich red blood and renewed life and 
vitality. Every particle of this good 
work is due to Postum and to drink- 
ing Postum in place of coffee." Name 
given by Postum Company, Battle 
Creek, Mich. 

Ice cold Postum, with a dash of 
lemon, is a delightful "cooler" for 
warm days. 

Send for particulars by mail of ex- 
tension of time on the $7,500 cooks' 
contest for 735 money prizes. 



" We are advertised by 
our loving friends.^* 




I AM sending you a picture of my two children, Ruth, four years old, and Carl Philip, 
eighteen months. I began with each of them when they were about four weeks old to 
feed with Mellin's Food, and I can recommend it most heartily. 

Mrs. C. P. Austin, 53 Winter Street, Gardiner, Me. 

Any mother can receive a sample of Mellin's Food free by simply sending us her name and address. 
MELLIN'S FOOD COMPANY, BOSTON, • MASS. 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazinb. 

xi 



Book Reviews 



{Contimied from page x) 
For who will be tempted away from 
home when that is the cheeriest and 
brightest spot in the landscape?" 
Fire-building, setting the table, 
washing dishes, bed-making, sweeping, 
and dusting, cleaning, laundry work, 
mending, care of the baby, are the 
subjects into which the authors have 
condensed their simple and practical 
lessons. These are suggestive rather 
than final. Familiar talks and stories, 
appropriate and cheerful in charac- 
ter, are an interesting feature of this 
timely little book. 



"Usually, my son," replied his 
father from behind the evening paper, 
"she means exactly what she says." 
Philadelphia Press. 



"Tenement House Conditions in 
New York" will be the title of two 
volumes containing the report of the 
Tenement House Commission of 1900. 
It will be largely the work of Mr. De 
Forest, Commissioner of Charities 
in New York City. This was a most 
extensive and intensive investiga- 
tion; and its results have been looked 
forward to with interest b}^ students 
of municipal problems throughout 
the country, as well as by those who, 
like Mr. Jacob Riis, are interested in 
the coming of the reign of decency 
and good order. Year by year New 
York moves onward toward better 
things in regard to the housing of 
its poor and of those who are endowed 
with but moderate earning power; 
and it is believed that this report will 
mark one more step in the right direc- 
tion. 

Mending 

Mix. I noticed your wife sitting 
by the window sewing this morning. 
I thought you told me yesterday that 
she was ill. 

Dix. So she was, but to-day she's 
on the mend. 



His Experience 

Pa," said the boy, looking up 
from his book, "what does a man's 
' better half ' mean ? " 



Summer Food 

Has Other Advantages 

Many people have tried the food. 
Grape-nuts, simply with the idea of 
avoiding the trouble of cooking food 
in the hot months. 

All these have found something 
besides the ready-cooked food idea, 
for Grape-nuts is a scientific food that 
tones up and restores a sick stomach 
as well as repairs the waste tissue 
in brain and nerve centres. 

"For two years I had been a suf- 
ferer from catarrh of the stomach, 
due to improper food; and, to relieve 
this condition, I had tried nearly every 
prepared food on the market, with- 
out any success, until six months ago 
my wife purchased a box of Grape- 
nuts, thinking it would be a desir- 
able cereal for the summer months. 

"We soon made a discovery. We 
were enchanted with the delightful 
flavor of the food, and to my surprise 
I began to get well. My breakfast 
now consists of a little fruit, four tea- 
spoonfuls of Grape-nuts, a cup of 
Postum, which I prefer to coffee, 
Graham bread or toast, and two boiled 
eggs. I never suffer the least dis- 
tress after eating this, and my stomach 
is perfect and general health fine. 
Grape-nuts is a wonderful prepara- 
tion. It was only a little time after 
starting on it that wife and I both 
felt younger, more vigorous, and in 
all ways stronger. This has been our 
experience. 

"P.S.— The addition of a little 
salt in place of sugar seems to me 
to improve the food." Name given 
by Postum Company, Battle Creek, 
Mich. 

Send for particulars by mail of ex- 
tension of time on the $7,500 cooks' 
contest for 735 money prizes. 



Advertisements 




TRISCUITis unexcelled as a 
food for children, because it con- 
tains all the elements of Whole 
Wheat, which go to properly nour- 
ish the whole body. Wheat con- 
tains the properties to make bone, 
teeth, muscle, in fact every part 
of the body. 

TRISCUIT 

IS 

NATURE'S FOOD 

BY 

NATURE'S PROCESS 




TRISCUIT, the 

highest achievement 

known to the science 

of food production, 

is made possible by 

that other great 

achievement, the ap- 
plication of electricity; forTriscuit 
is made and baked by electricity. 





WITH COCOA OR OTHER DRINK 

Composed of the whole wheat 
berry, God's perfect gift to man. 

Not touched by human hands 
during the process of manufacture. 

Cleaned, filamented, formed and 
baked by electricity. 



AS A BREAD OR TOAST 

TRISCUIT is a neat compact 
form of filamented wheat, its shape 
and size making it convenient to 
be carried wherever you may go, 
and to be used at any time. 
Triscuit is an all-day food for 
everybody, and contains the prop- 
erties for sound teeth, perfect di- 
gestion, and an entirely healthy 
body in accord with Nature's 
laws. 

Triscuit can be used as a Bread, 
Toast, Wafer or Cracker. Delicious 
witli Cheese, Fruit, Preserves, etc. 



WITH CHEESE OR FRUIT PRESERVE 



Placing: Triscuit in warming oven a 
a few moments will renew crispness. 

SEND FOR DESCRIPTIVE BOOKLET (FREE.) 

The Nattiral Food Company, 

Niagara Falls, N. Y. 



IMINUTI 

GELATINE 


1 




' T^ 

"Doesn't it look delicious?" ^ y 

Yes, and it tastes just as delicious as ^4 ^ 
it looks. It is a dainty, delightful des- ^ 
sert; and every one knows it is thoroughly 
wholesome, for it is made of 

Minute Gelatine. 

Purest — Makes the Most and the Best — 
Quickest to Serve. 

Pink Coloring (for fmicy desserts )in every package. 

'Send 15 cents and for Full-sized Two-quart Package 

your Grocer's dame f?^,"- ^-. " fil'^'tAX^Z,:, 
our Minute Tapioca and Minute Malted Cereal Coffee. 

Address WHITMAN GROCERY CO., Dept. S, 
Orange, Mass. 





When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xiii 



Household Hints 



Banquet to President Roosevelt by 
the Union League Club, San Fran- 
cisco : — 

Menu 
Small Eastern Oysters, Half -shell. 
Consomme Alice. 
Olives. Radishes. 

Salted Almonds and Pecans. 
Salmis. Cheese Matches. 

Fillet of Sole, Union League. 
Potato Rosette. 
Noisettes of Spring Lamb, Diplomate. 

Hearts of Artichoke Supreme. 
Chicken Patties, Queen Style. 
Ahricotine Punch. 

Roast Squab, Stuffed with Celery. 

New Peas, 

Hearts of Lettuce Salad, with Fine Herbs. 

Small California Bear Ice-cream. 

Strawberries. 

Assorted Fancy Cakes. 
Dessert. Coffee. 

"Red, white, and blue" were the 
base of the decorative scheme at the 
banquet of the Union League Club. 
In the centre of the ceiling, close up 
under the beams, was a gilded urn- 
shaped basket, from the wide open top 
of which there radiated straight stems 
of bamboo with delicate feathery 
green branches, and from which hung, 
like steadying gU3^s, graceful ropes 
of evergreen, extending to the four 
corners of the room. Red, white, and 
blue electric lights dotted these leafy 
strands. 

Over the large electroliers on the 
walls of the room were huge bunches 
of St. Joseph lilies, supported by 
the green of rushes and yew and 
live oak. In every niche and em- 
brasure and under every arch there 
were luxuriant bouquets of flowers. 

On the tables there were red poppies, 
blue cornflowers, and white sweet-peas, 
all simple, homely flowers, combined 
to remind one of the colors which 
make up the flag. These tri-color 
bouquets were disposed at intervals 
along every table, and|between them 
stood fantastic creations of the 



confectioner, — battleships, fortresses, 
block-houses, Filipino huts, and other 
such miniature structures in white 
sugar. — The Caterer. 



Kitchen Money. 

$7,500.00 Donated, 

To Be Divided Among 

Family Cooks. 



Great numbers of ladies have re- 
quested an extension of time on this 
contest. It has been granted. Full 
particulars by mail, vSee below. 

The sum of $7,500 will be dis- 
tributed between now and fall among 
family cooks, in 735 prizes, ranging 
from $200 to $5, 

This is done to stinmlate better 
cooking in the family kitchen. The 
contest is open to paid cooks (drop 
the name "hired girl," call them 
cooks if they deserve it) or to the 
mistress of the household, if she does 
the cooking. The rules for contest 
are plain and simple. Each of the 
735 winners of money prizes will also 
receive an engraved certificate of 
merit or diploma as a cook. The di- 
plomas bear the big gilt seal and sig- 
nature of the most famous food com- 
pany in the world, the Postum Cereal 
Company, Ltd., Battle Creek, Mich,, 
the well-known makers of Postum 
Coffee and Grape-nuts. Write them, 
and address Cookery Department, 
No. 307, for full particulars. 

Great sums of money devoted to 
such enterprises always result in 
putting humanity further along on the 
road to civilization, health, comfort, 
and happiness. 



Advertisements 




W/irMRd 



Been on the tables of partic- 
ular people for 50 years — 
always gives satisfaction — 
Always crisp and fresh — always 
the same delicious flavor — 

(T{ever become soggjy — 
Tfy 'em with soups. 

S. S. PIERCE CO. 



Boston 



Selling Agents 

BrooRline 




FOOD MADE WITH 

Mrs. LINCOLN S 

BAKING POWDER 

Is finer grained, iweeter, more 
healthful, and keeps moiBt 
longer than that raised by the 
more rapid action of powders 
containing other acids. 



Grocers 



It 



BOSTON, MASS. 

AFTER MANY YEARS* EXPERIENCE,! 

AM CONVINCED THAT A PURE CREAM OF ^ 

TARTAR BAKIN6 POWDER IS THE BEST^ 

QUICK LEAVENINQ AGENT, AND IS Ai 

WHOLESOME FOOD ADJUNCT. 

I GUARANTEE THAT THIS POWDER, 
PREPARED AFTER MY FORMULA, CON- 
TAINS ONLY THE HIGHEST POSSIBLE 
GRADE OF CREAM OF TARTAR AND 
CARBONATE OF SODA, WITH THE SMALL- 
EST PERCENTAGE OF CORN STARCH 
NECESSARY FOR ITS PERFECT KEEPING. 
AS LONG AS MY SIGNATURE.APPEARS 
ON THESE LABELS, HOUSEKEEPERS, MAY > 
BE SURE THAT THIS FORMULA WILL BE 
FOLLOWED IN THE MANUFACTURE OF 
THIS BAKING POWDER. 



7. i^^octr^ 



AOTHOB a^TMg^UoSTON COOK BOOK" 
AND MOk OF MRS LINCOLN't BAKINd 
rOWOER COWPAKY. 



None geauiae without Mn. Mary J. Uoaata** signature 



Natures 

FINEStfOOD 
fN^6iRINK'.' 



t) 



wm 



-^^(^ 



In Welch's Grape l^^Sy Juice is offered' 
the choicest pro ^^f duct of Chautau- 
qua County Concord ^^ Grapes. It is just 
pure grape juice, without addition or sub- 
traction. The extreme carefulness in each step 
of the process from vineyard to bottle makes 
Welch's the grape juice acknowledged as best 
by physicians. 

' Welch's Grape Juice is a delicious home 
necessity. Use itas a beverage and table drink. 
Dainty desserts are made with it. In cases of 
sickness it may be given as sole diet. 

Add one half water to Welch's and have it 
better than other kinds. 

Sold by the best druggists and fancy grocers. If yonr 
dealer will not supply you send $3 for trial dozen 
pints by express prepaid east o f Omaha. Interesting 
booklet free, 3-oz bottle by mail 10 cents, 

THt WELCH GRAPE JIICE CO., Westfield, N.Y. 



WM 


:»»-—— -^, ^ 


«T?fJ 


[g.„_^. ^^ .__^..J^-^ 


-. ^_t 


B^ wmr^^ 




^^^ wKK^^mWi' 


■TTMiiiw- 



THE BEST BOY WIJ^S 

A clear brain, a strong: body and pure 
blood are necessary to success. . . . 

MALTA-CERES 

THE Hea^ltK Food. 

a delicious, crisp, nut-like food with the dainty flavor 
of grape sugar ; which g-ives health to brain, muscle 
and blood. 

Ready to Eat, 

Package sent free for your grocer's name. 

THE TWIN CITY NUT FOOD CO. 
2844 Bryant Ave. Minneapolis, Minn. 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 



Household Hints 



Too Much Economy in Food 
Not Right 

Women living alone have a most 
reprehensible trick of trying to save 
money and trouble at the expense 
of their food, and nothing could be 
much worse or more harmful than 
this. Economy in food is right, up 
to a certain point; but after that 
it becomes the most absolute folly. 
And when one tries to save labor in 
dish washing, — and this means not 
cooking a certain dish because it is 
too much trouble to wash the pan 
afterward, — that woman's digestive 
future is doomed. 

To add to the absurdity of such 
management, or rather mismanage- 
ment, the "light housekeeper" often 
works harder to save work than she 
would if she had things decently and 
in order. But then it is true, oftener 
than not, that the shirker is the hard 
worker, and that it is more trouble to 
evade a task than it is to do it. Es- 
pecially is this the case with young 
women who get their own breakfasts 
before starting out on their day's 
work, and who come back at night 
too tired to care for anything but a 
cup of tea and a piece of bread — if it 
rests with them to prepare it. 

This may be economy for a little 
while, but let a woman's system once 
get run down, — and nothing in the 
world will accomplish this sooner than 
not being properly nourished, — and 
there is no limit to the list of fearful 
diseases that he in wait for her. The 
actual money cost of having enough 
to eat is so small that comparatively 
few working women have to deprive 
themselves of the necessities in their 
raw state ; but the trouble of prepa- 
ration seems often altogether too 
great for a family of one. 

If two or three working-women can. 
club together in their housekeeping, 
there will be a surprising saving, not 
only of expenditure, but of time and 
labor as well. The same fire, the 
same kettle, and the same filling of 



it will make the tea for three as well 
as for one; and the division of labor 
makes each member's part seem easier, 
even if she actually does more than 
if she were alone. There is much 
help in mere companionship. Then, 
too, solitary meals are conducive 
neither to health nor enjo3^ment, 
and are apt to be a good guide to 
indigestion and its attendant train 
of evils. 

Much money is wasted by not 
knowing how to buy. Chops and 
steaks are the easiest things to think 
of and to cook; but, if you weigh the 
meat and bone separately, you will 
be amazed to find how much of your 
purchase goes into the refuse, while, 
if you buy a pound of clear, lean beef, 
and watch the butcher as he puts it 
a couple of times through his chopping 
machine, you pay only for what you 
will eat. 

The chopped meat can be spread 
on a wire toaster, as thickly as de- 
sired, and so broiled over the coals 
or gas flame ; and it is as good as any 
ordinary steak, and far better than 
a poor one. Or it can be made into 
balls and pan-broiled, — not fried, — 
and it will be equally good. 

It is woman's duty — almost her 
first duty — to provide herself properly 
with internal fuel. It will cost very 
little more to have food that nourishes 
than to buy that which simply "fills 
up." — Boston Herald. 



Platfs 




The Odorless Disinfectant 

Destroy disease germs. Sold in quart bottles only by drug- 
gists, high-class grocers, and house-furnishing dealers. 
Manufactured by HENRY B. PLATT, New York 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xvi 



Advertisements 



Cold 
Desserts 

AND 

Ice-cream 

Smooth 

Velvety 

Delicious 

can be easily and quickly made 
at small e xpense with 

Junket Tablets 

Order a package row from your dealer, or we 
will mail ten tablets, postpaid, for ten cents. 



CHR. HANSEN'S LABORATORY 

Box J2I2 LITTLE FALLS, N.Y. 



i£K3GGO£X3GOeGt30Ge3e3QQOOQeX3Qi 



TOURNADE'S 

KITCHEN BOUQUET 




;?o Years ^^m^^^^k. ^ Favorite I \ 

For SOUPS, 5AUCE5, GRAVIES J 
ROASTS, STEWS, ENTREESS 

AND OENERAL CULINARY PURPOSES 

Imparts a Rich Color and Delightful Flavor. The 
Kitchen Garden Condensed and Ready for Instant | 
Use. Keeps in Any Climate. Used and endorsed by 
Great Chefs and Eminent Teachers of Cookery. 

" Housekeeping would be a burden without It.'— Sarah 
Ttsoit Rorek. , ^ . , . 

" I know of no other kitchen luxury which is so near a ] 
necessity."— Helen Armstrong. 

^ " Invaluable to the housekeeper. "— Mary J. Lincoln. 
^ "Indlspensabietoallsavory dishes."— Janet M. Hill. 

" Indispensable to all up-to-date housekeepers."— Al.ce ! 
Cart Waterman. ' ^ ,j ^ x, -^t 

" Have used it for last ten years and would not be with- 
out it. "—Emily M. Colling. 

"A necessity to all good cooking."— E. LaPerruque, 
Head Chef, Delinonlco's. 



If your grocer doesn't keep it, insist on his getUng it for you. i 

WRITE FOR FREE SAMPLE AND BOOKLET^ 

Send 30 cents in stamps for pi epaid package. 

The PALISADE MANUFACTURING CO. 

251 Clinton Avenue, West Hoboken, N.J. 
S N.B. — The word "Kitchen Bouquet" is exclusively ourj 
Q trade-mark. Infringements will be prosecuted. 

S0GG0CIOt3OC3OOClOOOO£X3OO€3OOGe3€3OOOOC3C3e3OGQQe3€3Ge 



BccfExtiad 



w 

TASTE 
TELLS" 




Stiperior To All OtKers 

For Sotips, Satices, 
S a. V o r y S tx i:\ d r i e s 

and 

BEEF TEA 

Secure a Set 

of the 

Famous 

Ctidahy A-1 

Silver Plated 

Boviillon 

Spoons 

Made by Wm. A. Rogers, 

The Famous Silversmith 

FREE 

Do not confuse these 
splendid spoons with ordi- 
nary offers. The Ctidahy 
Spoons are made in the 
latest design, French Gray 
Finish, are heavier than 
triple silver plate and free 
from advertising. 

How To Secure 
These Spoons 

For each spoon 
desired send a 
metal cap from 
a 2 oz. or larger 
sized jar of Rex 
Brand Beef Ex= 
tract, and 10c in 
silveror stamps to 
covercost of mail- 
ing, and mention 
this publication. 

Cudahy's Rex Brand Beef Extract is sold by all drug- 
gists and grocers. Address 

CudaHx PacKing Compeiny 

Beef Extract Department E 

SotitH. OmaHa. NebrasKa. 




When you write advertisers^ please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xvii 



Household Hints 



Home-made Wine for Medicinal 

Use 
, In cases of illness there is no simpler 
or better home-made wine than that 
made of elderberry blossoms. 

In making, use one quart of blossoms 
packed tightly (picked off from the 
stems), three and one-half pounds of 
white sugar, one lemon, sliced, and 
one gallon of boiling water poured 
over the mixture. I^et this com- 
pound stand until lukewarm, then 
add one-half cake of compressed yeast 
or three tablespoonfuls of soft hop 
yeast. It should stand three or four 
days, and then be strained before bot- 
tling. Be sure that it is kept in a 
warm place. 

Dandelion wine, made of the tops of 
that flower, is of a very light color, and 
much liked for medicinal purposes. — 
C. M. A. 



Epicures among Insects 
I wonder how many people ever 
stop to think what an important part 
color plays in the food and surround- 
ings of insects. 

Buffalo bugs or moths show a de- 
cided preference for bright red. 

When a house is infected by them, 
it is quite noticeable that red shawls 
or other wool articles are eaten or 
rather devoured first. Many house- 
keepers keep strips of red flannel in 



their clothes presses for the sole pur- 
pose of attracting these carpet bugs, 
and every day shake them into the 
fire.— C. M. A. 

Weather Signs 

An "old salt" gives the following 
signs for weather. He claims they 
will come true five times out of 
six : — 

"If the wind comes before the rain, 
soon you can make sail again." 

"If the rain comes before the wind, 
furl your topsails snugly in." 

"Rainbow at night, sailor's de- 
light. "^ 

"Rainbow in the morning, sailors 
take warning." 

"If the rain comes with setting 
sun, soon the showers will be done." 

' ' Rising sun followed by rain, you'll 
not see the sun again." 

"If the sun's red in the west, next 
day hotter than the last." 

"A streak of red, then streak of 
gray, and you will get a gloomy day." 



Among the guests at a dinner in 
New York, given in honor of Daniel 
Webster, was Dr. Benjamin Bran- 
dreth, the inventor of a celebrated 
pill known by his name. A witty 
guest proposed the voluntary toast: 
"To Daniel Webster and Benjamin 
Brandreth, the pillars of the Con- 
stitution." 



SAVES HOSIERY 

NEVER SLIPS, TEARS, NOR UNFASTENS 

The 





HOSE ''"^"'°'' 



BUTTON 



SUPPORTER 



Sample pair 

by mail, 25c 
If your dealer does not sell you this Every Clasp has the 
Supporter, he does not sell the Best name Stamped on 
GEORGE FROST CO., Makers, Boston, Mass, the Hetal Loop(E^^ 




When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

3?viii 



Advertisements 




Has many points of advantage, 
but in one particular excels all 
other, — that is, in quality. 

No cheap goods ever 
bear our name. 




Better good quality at an 
honest price than poor 
goods as a gift. 

Packet catalog free. 
GOODELL CO., - Antrim, N.H., 



^rME> 




SAVES 
TIME- 




^^ ^ 






Imported, 
Quadruple- 
coated 




"The Ware 
that Wears" 




When enameled ware is offered to you as "Imported," 

that's the time to be careful ! 

All STRANSKY WARE is imported, but all imported ware 

is not STRANSKY. 




LASTS FOR YEARS. 
Used and recommended by the highest cooking authorities. 



STRANSKY (gl CO., NewYorK 






When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xix 



Household Hints 




The Scientific Life 
Before breakfast has been prepared 
or after it has been served and eaten, 
the housewife should add up the dif- 
ferent amounts of proteid, fat, and 
carbohydrate found in the foods. 
The computing cards should be used 
at each meal. In the evening you 
can find out whether you have taken 
too much of one kind of food or not 
enough of another. — Mary Moulton 
Smith. 

Mother's slow at figures, but she always has to 

count 
The proteids to see that we secure the right 

amount. 
She keeps a pad of paper and a pencil near 

the sink, 
And estimates our victuals, — all the things we 

eat or drink. 
She lists our carbohydrates and she scribbles 

down the fat. 
And our specific gravity, — she always watches 

that. 

Mother's slow at figures, but she wants to 

do her best. 
She's listened to the lectures until she is 

possessed 
Of scientific demons and a regulating card — 
And while she chews her pencil all the eggs 

are boiUng hard. 
She gets bewildered with it, and she has to 

balance up, 
And the coffee is so sturdy that it almost 

cracks the cup. 

Mother's slow at figures, so our breakfast's 
always late: 

The proteids and the hydrates make the task 
for her too great. 

We never get a luncheon, for she figures on 
till noon. 

And finds we've overdone it, and that almost 
makes her swoon. 

Mother's tabulating every pennyweight we 
eat — 

Except the meals we smuggle from the res- 
taurant down street. 

— Chicago Tribune. 



BREAD MACHINE 

For Household Usb. 
Sifts the flour and mixes lo pounds 
of best bread in three minutes. Sold 
subject to trial and approval. Send 
Jor Booklet. Agents wanted. 
Scientific- Bread Machine Co. 

(Cyrus Chambers, Jr.) 
52d and Media Sts., Philadelphia 




When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

XX 



Advertisements 



h. 






CORN SYRUP 

The Great Spread for Daily Bread. 

The new syrup with a new flavor that makes yon eat — an appetizer that is 
nutritious and delicious. A pure, wholesome, table delicacy good for any 
stomach or any age, with all the goodness of the grain retained. A safe, 
reliable food article children love and thrive upon. 

A Fine Food for Feeble Folks, 

Good for every home use — from griddle cakes to candy. 

Sold in airtight, friction-top tins which make excellent 

household utensils when empty. Jellies and fruit 

can be put up in them with safety, 

10c, 25c and 50c sizes, at all grocers. 

CORN PRODUCTS CO., 

New York and Chieago. 



it> 



Timbale Moulds 




Can be used in nnaking a great variety of dishes, 
both plain and elaborate. A set should be in every 
kitchen. 

In response to numerous requests we offer these 
moulds for a limited time as follows: 
To any present subscriber who will send us TWO 
NEW yearly subscriptions, at $1 each, before Jan- 
uary first, we will send, postpaid, as premium, a 
set of EIGHT MOULDS. 

These are the best imported French moulds, and can 
be secured in no other way. 

ADDRESS 

The Boston 
Cooking-School Magazine 

BOSTON, MASS- 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xxi 



Household Hints 



D3a^CQQQQQ(!Q z 



:QSQ£aQQ3QQSQ 



Ancient 
Kitchen Tools 

are all right for a museum. They 
have no place in the modern kitchen. 
It is just as reasonable to expect a 
harvest with a hand plow as good 
cooking from poor kitchen tools. 
We have a full supply of 

I Up=to=Date 
Kitchen Appliances. 

They save Time, Money, Labor, each 
one saving many times the cost of the 
Utensil. Call and look over our 
Stock. Inquiries cheerfully answered. 
Address 

LEWIS & CONGER, 

130=132 West 42nd Street, 
NEW YORK. 



• 503503503 g6B 



I 

9 

♦ 

S 

! 



DELICIOUS COFFEE 
EVERY DAY! 



You can have it wherever you are, if you use an 
" EXCERPTA " Coffee-pot. Made in one 
minute. Simply pour boiling water through 
the trap, and it's ready, — clear as wine, with a flavor 
surpassing anything you ever drank before. All aronia 
preserved, positively no odor of coffee until it is 
poured into the cup. 




If your dealer cannot supply you, send us his name, and 
we will send you a copy of a famous picture and facts 
about the " EXCERPTA." 

HOUSEHOLD HFe. CO., 790 Dun Building, 
Buffalo, N.Y. 



Summer Homes on the Boston & 

Albany Railroad 
Is the title of a 24-page illustrative 
and descriptive folder, issued by the 
Passenger Department of the Boston 
& Albany Railroad, containing a 
complete list of Hotels and Summer 
Boarding-houses along the line of 
that road. It is richly illustrated 
with half-tone cuts of mountains, 
lakes, waterfalls, stage-roads, etc., 
and all prospective summer tourists 
will find it most interesting. 

A copy may be secured by address- 
ing A. S. Hanson, General Passenger 
Agent, Boston, Mass. 



There are three things which women 
demand to have right, — their gloves, 
their millinery, and their hose sup- 
porters. They may be sure of the 
last by always ordering the Velvet 
Grip Hose Supporters, which are sold 
with a yellow guarantee coupon. 



Cucumber Pickles 
Wash the cucumbers clean, and 
lay them in a crock or jar. Dissolve 
fine cooking salt in boiling water, 
making it quite strong, and pour over 
the cucumbers while hot. Cover, 
and let stand twenty-four hours. 
Then pour off this brine, put the cu- 
cumbers in your pickle jar with layers 
of Slade's pickling spice between, 
and pour over them enough vinegar, 
brought to a boil, to cover. They 
will be ready to eat in a few days, 
are always firm and crisp, and will 
keep good two years. 

THE OLD RELIABLE 

DIXON S nr ' 
Stove Polish. 

NbTBE TVBKI Hi* 0» R.VITS T»W» ST«T«t. 

Jos. Dixon Ceucibl* Co., • - Jbemy City, NJ. 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xxii 



Advertisements 




Adds Li^ht 
dLnd Life to 
Linen and slII 

wash fabrics aivd 



Makes Shirts, Collars, Cuffs, 
Shirt Waists, Skirts, Dresses, 
Table Linen, and Lace Curtains 
look like NEW. 
No other Starch will produce such perfect results. 




ELECTRIC LUSTRE STARCH is a.1- 
ways sold in BLVE packages. Price 10c. 
V Be svire yoxi get tKe Genuine. V 



For Sale by all Grocers. 
J9®~Save the fronts of your Electric Lustre Starch 
packages. Send four fronts to us, and we will send 
you a Dainty Pear Wood Thermometer free. 

ELECTRIC LUSTRE STARCH CO. 

26 Central Street, Boston, Ma.ss. 



Sawyer's 



Sold in 
Sprinkling 
Top Bottles. 




CRYSTAL 

BLUE 

Gives a 

beautiful tint 
to linens, 
laces, and re- 
stores the 
color to goods 
that are worn 
and faded. 

Bt turc 
thftt you 
ft 

SAWYER'S 

45 YEARS THE PEOPLE'S CHOICE. 





S T A N D ARD 

ROTARY SHUTTLE 
Serving Machines 

Do both lock and chain stitch work. 

We aim to make the finest machines 

in the world. We employ no agents 

or canvassers, and do not send machines 

out on suspicion. 

We rent, repair, and sell for cash or 

on rental-purchase plan. 
SPECIAL NOTICE. "Stitchwhll" CJ_ 7 c 
■mall hand machines for travellers . . •P ■ • « ^ 
Write for circulars. 

STANDARD SEWING MACHINE CO. 

GENERAL OFFICES, 

173 Tremont St., Boston 

Write for elegant 50-page catalogue 
and mention this magazine. 



WHen you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xxiii 



Household Hints 




From Baby in the High Chair 
to Grandma in the Rocker, 

JelhO — V-- 

family. So easy and quick to 
prepare, and can be used with 
fresh or candied fruits, nuts, 
figs, dates, in hundreds of dif- 
ferent combinations. 
Fotir Frvi.it Flavors : 
Lemon, Orange, Raspberry, and 
Strawberry. At all Grocers'. 
IOC. Try it to-day. 



The (jenesee Pure Food CoAeRoy, N.Y 



1847 ROGERS BROS' 



A Berry Spoon 

or a complete outfit in ''Silver Plate 
that Wears" will always prove ac- 
ceptable as a gift or for personal 
use if it bears the trademark 

"1847 ROGERS Bros: 

as the quality is so well 
known. Made in a great 
variety of Spoons 
Forks and Fancy 
Serving Pieces. 



This 
is our 
New 
Pattern— 

The "Avon" 

{Patented) 



and is for sale by 
leading dealers ev- 
erywhere. Send for 
catalogue No." H-8'' 

MERIDEN 
BRITANNIA CO. 

(I.,Hrnati.,nal '^ilverCo., 

Meriden, Conn. 

Look for our complete 
trademark — 

M ROGERS BROS!' 



SiiverPlate that Wears" 



The Triumph Fruit-jar Wrench 
We wish to call attention to the 
advertisement of the Triumph Fruit- 
Jar Wrench, on page xxviii of this 
magazine. Hundreds of women have 
used it, and eliminated many of the 
troublesome, not to say dangerous, 
features of fruit canning. It opens 
and closes the most obstinate jar, 
and saves many a time its cost each 
season by insuring the proper sealing 
of canned fruit. 



A New Railroad Book 
New Jersey is in every sense a typi- 
cal vacation region, and each year 
brings greater developments and im- 
provements for the entertainment 
of the pleasure-seeker. The shore, 
which is reached best by the New 
Jersey Central, includes Atlantic 
Highlands, Navesink, Seabright, Mon- 
mouth Beach, Allenhurst, Deal, As- 
bury Park, Ocean Grove, Spring Lake, 
and Point Pleasant. To these points 
there is fast express service at almost 
every hour, while the New Jersey 
Central's Sandy Hook boats afford 
a delightful sea trip to Atlantic High- 
lands, from which point trains con- 
vey passengers to the above points. 
Atlantic City, Cape May, Ocean City, 
Tuckerton, Beach Haven, are also 
reached by the New Jersey Central 
by fast express trains, while the in- 
terior resorts, including Lake Hopat- 
cong, Mauch Chunk, Harvey's Lake, 
have greatly improved service. The 
New Jersey Central has just issued 
a new booklet, known as "Sea Shore 
and Mountains," descriptive of the 
region traversed by that road. The 
book was gotten up regardless of 
expense, is "printed on fine paper, and 
has nearly one hundred and fifty illus- 
trations of scenes along the line of 
the road. This book is sent to any 
address upon receipt of 6 cents in 
stamps by C. M. Burt, General Pas- 
senger Agent, New Jersey Central, 
R. 803, New York City. Send for it. 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 



Advertisements 



UrxderTsrooci-s Original 

DEVILED HAM 




LOOK ON THE CAN FOR 
LITTLE RED DEVIL 







The pure and delicate Deviled Ham which 
has been on the market for years and years, 
and never found wanting. Sugar-cured ham 
and fine, pure spices is all that we use. It is 
delicious for sandwiches, at lunch, picnic, or 
tea, and in the chafing-dish. Our Book con- 
tains a lot of unique and practical receipts. 
We will send it FREE. 



UNDERWOOD'S 
DEVILED 



ORIGINAL 
HAM 



may be bought at any good grocer's, but be 
sure you see on the can THE LITTLE RED DEVIL. 

Wm. Underwood Co. ,Boston,MassMU.S.A. 




Crist Mill 

Wheat Coffee 

Improves 
Digestion 

^^KYOUR GROGER-HE SELLS IT. 




THE BREAST FOR BABY, 
rtie Cell for Fo"d 

On sale by all 
druggists. Com- 
plete bottle, by 
mail. 38c. In or- 
dering, address 
Dept. B. 



Hy^eia Nursing Bottle Co., Buffalo, N. 




DR. STEDMAN'S 

^ Teething Powders -^ 

Used by mothers theworld over for nearly half a century. 
Not a soothing remedy, but a Teethine Powder, abso- 
lutely safe and harmless. Dr. Arthur H. Hassall, of the 
Analytical Institution, London, England, in his report on 
these Powders, writes : "■Absolutely free from morphia or 
any other alkaloid or constituent of opium. Thus Sted- 
man's Teething Powder is favorably distinguished from 
similar preparatiovs."~Krt\\ur H. Hassall, M. I>. 

A (rum lancet, the trademark, is on every packet and 
on every powder, none otherwise genuine. 

Having a branch in the United States re- '^v^ » 
duces tlie cost to 25 cents for a packet of TW ADE^^^gl ABKi 
nine powders. At most druggists ormailed ^II.'JM;m ^^ 
on receipt of price. 
^^ Book of testimonials and Dr. Stedman's Pamphlet, 

The Nursery Doctor," sent free on request. Address 
J. G. MaeWALTER, Germantown, Phila., Pa. 

Home Office, 125 New North Road, Hoxton. London, Eng. 

Kindly mention this paper. 



These trade-mark 

GLUTE 

SPECIAL 
K. C.WHOL 

Unlike all 

For b( 
Farwell & Rhines, 




lines on every package* 

For 
DYSPEPSIA. 

FLOUR. 
AT FLOUR. 

Ask Grocers, 
write 
owi\.N.Y..U.S.A. 




Drink 

Iced 



liBarEtte 

-the pure tea with, i 

the tannin removed I 

Iced Oohn(f^ Tea-EUeihe I 

most delicious summer \ 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 



Household Hints 




MOTHERS WANT 



USE 



that which will keep the baby's skin soft 
and free from skin diseases. 

OLIVE OIL 

is recognized as the one thing in toilet arti- 
cles to do It. 

Carmel iSoap 

is made wholly of 
Pure, Siveet Olive Oil 

and made right where the olives grow, at 
Mount Carmel, Palestine. Nothing can be 
more necessary to the nursery than such a 
soap 

Sold by Druggists and Leading Grocers. 

Imported by A, KLIPSTEIN & CO., 
J22 Pearl Street, New York. 



•••• THE •••• 

"KITCHEN AND HAND" 

• • • ^v/r\r^ • • • 




For removing Tar, Pitch, Cement, Varnish, Paint, Axla 
Grease, Blacking, and all impurities from the hands, it is 
unequaled, leaving the skin soft, white and smooth. 

Beware of Imitations. For Sale by all Grocer*. 



CHAS. F. BATES & CO. 

Proprietors and Manufacturers, 

Office, 123 Oliver St.» ... Boston. 
Pactorro WollMtoo, Mam. ^ 



Facts about Bacteria 

Condensed Information as to their Nature 
and the Ways of getting rid of them 

Bacteria are jelly-like cells, of 
microscopical size and of various 
shapes and species, which produce 
disease. These cells vary in size -from 
one-fiftieth of an inch to as small as 
one- twenty-five thousandth of an inch. 
Bacteria belong to the vegetable king- 
dom, and multiply with great rapid- 
ity, the method being by dividing 
into two equal parts. This division 
is said to sometimes occur as often 
as every hour. It is only lack of 
sustenance that prevents their as- 
suming-enormous proportions. These 
bacteria exist in almost everything, — 
in the air, in the water, in the earth, in 
our food, on the surface of our bodies, 
in the cavities thereof, — in fact, al- 
most everywhere. 

Perhaps there is no way or place 
that these bacteria may do more con- 
stant and daily harm to health than 
upon the surface of the human body. 
The bacteria thrive best and multi- 
ply faster in dirt and heat and moist- 
ure. Almost 20 per cent, of the total 
excretion of the body is through the 
skin. The skin itself is constantly 
renewed from underneath, and the 
epidermis, or outer skin, is constantly 
being cast off. These two facts, to- 
gether with the inevitable external 
accumulation, supply a fertile field 
for the bacteria, while the heat and 
moisture are furnished by the body 
itself. 

Unless the skin is persistently and 
constantly cleansed, all kinds of troub- 
lous diseases result. This cleansing 
is largely mechanical. Rubbing with 
water produces much of the needed 
elimination. The use of soap makes 
the cleansing more easy and more 
effective, because soap is a solvent 
and loosens the accumulations on the 
skin, so that they may be more thor- 
oughly removed. 

{Continued on page xxviii) 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

XXVI 



Advertisements 




CIRCULARS 
FREE 



THE EASIER WAY 

"Willie," queried the fond mother, "I 
don't understand how it is that you are 
at the bottom of your class." "I don't 
^^ understand it myself," said the bright 
5^ chap, "but I know it is dreadful easy." 
You may not understand how the 
f MAGEE Heater makes your home so mighty com- 
fortable— but you "KNOW IT IS DREADFUL EASY." 
That's simply a dyed in the wool, confirmed habit 
of the famous 



GEE HEATERS. 



They heat homes so easily you can't 
imagine how it all happens. Correct principles, cor- 
rectly carried into mechanical execution. That's the 
secret of the Magee success. 



Try a 



Magee Heatef 



First 



if you want home comfort, with least expense, 
class dealers sell the Magee. 

Illustrated circulars free. 

Magee Furnace Co., Makers of Mag-ee Heaters and Ranges, 

33-38 Union Street, Boston. 

"Highest Award Gold Medal, Paris Exposition." 




ENTERPRISE 

Fruit 
Press 



sJ^ 



■7 



For making 

Wines, 
Jellies, 



^S^' 



and 



Fruit Butters 



No. 84. $8.00 



from Berries of all kinds, Grapes, Currants, Tomatoes, Quinces, Pine- 
apples, etc. Simple in construction, easy in operation. 

In one operation it extracts the juice and ejects the skins and 
seeds. Does not clog up or get out of order. 

Sold by Hardware dealers, House Furnishing, and Department Stores. "The 
Enterprising Housekeeper," containing 200 recipes, sent for 4 cents in stamps. 

THE ENTERPRISE MFC. CO. OF PA., Philadelphia, Pa. 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xxvii 



Household Hints 






"lOu'U not only think more clearly and easily, but 
you'll also think you never drank anything so deli- 
cious and satisfying, when you have a cup of 

HOOTON'S Cocoa 

It's a nutrient, building up body and brain— the 
drink for thinkers and workers. 

Sample free for grocer's name, or full 10c. can, 
for 8 cents in stamps and grocer's name. 

HOOTON COCOA AND CHOCOLATE COMPANY. 
Newark, N. J., U. 8. A. 



s I 

I Makes a success of any Soup, i 

5 Sauce^ or Salad Dressing. . . . | 



McILHENNY'S 
TABASCO. 



Booklet containing recipes on 



I request. 



E. M c I LH E N N y's So 



5 New Iberia, 



Boston Office, 42 Central Street. 



fe>«H-^»'tl*<^*»* 



8 The, perfection of flavor, the 

I epitome of strength. Avoid f 

J cheap substitutes, ai)d use only t 

I the original Mcllhenny's, made ! 

I at New Iberia, Louisiana. 



T ■ • ' ♦ 

Louisiana. § 



♦ 



I •«!^M M <«»>M*-^»>«t* ^ 




Medication in soap is of small value, 
because the progress of the excreta 
is outward. The work of the soap is 
only to remove the debris; and it is 
difficult to impregnate a stream from 
mouth to source. The remedy, there- 
fore, for such of human ills as come 
from the surface of the body is soap 
and water, applied with considerable 
energetic rubbing. 

For the purpose of thoroughly re- 
moving the obstructions and accum- 
ulations from the surface of the skin, 
a pure soap should be employed, be- 
cause such soap is an easy and perfect 
solvent to dirt. It has been found, 
also, that the purer the soap, the 
stronger its antiseptic properties. By 
antiseptic properties we mean its 
power to destroy bacteria. 

With good public sanitation and 
careful personal cleanliness, the chances 
for bacterial disease getting a hold 
upon the individual is materially 
lessened and serious epidemics made 
impossible. 



Fruit Preserving 





Our Illustrated leaflet, No. 
245, which jiives absolutely 
relialile int'orraation as to 
how to put up fruit, will 
be sent to readers of this 
magazine free upon appli- 
cation. In add'tion tothis 
leaflet, we will Si nd a. sam- 
ple of the new FORBES 
GUIMMED FRUIT LA- 
BELS, handsomely litho- 
graphed in natural colors, 
and a description of the 
TRIUMPH fruit iar holder, pat 
ented, which holds the jarwiih 
a vise-like grip wliile the cover 
Is easily tiarhtenpd or loosened 
with the TRIUMPH fruit jar 
wrench. This useful wrench is 
illustrated elsewhere in this mag- 
azine. 

The price of the TRIUMPH 
wrench and holder by dealers 
and agents is 25 cents a pair. 
Sample pair sent, prepaid, to an y 
address upon receipt of price. 
Address FORBES CHOCOLATE 
CO., Cleveland, Ohio. 




When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine, 

xxviii 



$1.00 A YEAR 



lO CENTS A COPY 



Trlx-/ 'BO oTOJx' 

CGDKING- SCHOOL 
MACAZIKE> 





''^^^-'^^^><^:s)^)(B^m^m^i^)m^^z^-^v^^ 



^mQcsm- 



OF CUMNAICr ^OIE/NCE/ AND 
DOMiySTIC/ E/OOMOMIOS/ 



VOL. VIII. 



OCTOBER, I903 



No. 3 



1^ 




A Day with the Birds After the Painting by Thomas Sedg^wick Steele 

THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 
372 Boylston Street, Boston, MassacHtisetts 



[^"ght, 1903, by the Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



Entered at Boston Post-office as second-class matter 



litoffl 



■^■fe 



PDeiNANIllO 






The Miller in a Playful Mood: 



"CMldren, attention! Give the countersign"— "Ralston Purina" "How does it come?"— "In 'Checker- 
board' packages." "Answer to the roll call: Ralston Breakfast Food" — "Here." "Ralston Barley Food" — 
"Here."' "Ralston Health Oats" — "Here." "Ralston Hominy Grits" — "Here." "Ralston Kornkins" — "Here," 
"Ralston Cereal Coffee" — "Here." "Ralston Health Crisps" — "Here." "Ralston Baking Powder" — "Here," 
"Ralston Health Gelatine"— "//ere." "Purina Pankake Flour"— "//ere." "Purina Whole Wheat Flour"— 
"Here." "Purina Pankake Syrup" — "Here" "Good. My compliments to your mothers, and tell 
them if you just live up to Checkertoard Foods you'll te good children." 

How to get your favorite $1.00 Magazine Free, for one year: See coupons in every pad 

Ralston Purina Co., St. Louis, U. S. A. 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 



I 




A Twentieth Century Grandmother 



The 
Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



Vol. VIII. 



OCTOBER. 



No. 3. 



American Housekeeping in Manila 



Bv Anne Louisa Ide 



TO the American woman, ac- 
customed to the comforts 
and conveniences of home 
life in the United States, organizing 
and running an establishment in the 
Philippines may seem full of difficul- 
ties. There is the baffling sense of 
the unknown about the place, lan- 
guage, and people; but, in spite of 
this, the task of the average house- 
keeper in Manila is easier than that 
of her sister in Boston. That much- 
discussed and all-absorbing labor 
question is partially solved in the 
Philippines: for here servants are 
willing to be servants. More help is 
required than at home, even for a 
small family; but, if a good Chinese 
cook be obtained, the worst is over 
for the new-comer. If the establish- 
ment is to be a large one, one will hire 
a cook, two or three house-boys (the 
term "boy" applies to men ranging 
from seven to seventy), a coolie (called 
literally the "scrub"), and often a 
"No. I boy," or head servant and su- 
pervisor. Laundry work is usually 
done away from home by Filipinos, 
whose rates are very reasonable. Per- 
haps the best work of this kind is done 
in the city prison by men and women 
serving sentences. 



All the household work is done by 
men, and it is an every-day sight to 
see a stolid Chinaman carefully fold- 
ing away Madame 's clothes or mak- 
ing her bed. Filipino and Chinese 
women are employed only as chil- 
dren's nurses, in which capacity they 
are very satisfactory. 

Cooks average very well, enjoy the 
household entertainments as a chance 
to display their skill, and are not ex- 
travagant. If left to themselves, they 
are apt to get into a routine, as one 
unfortunate bachelors' mess discov- 
ered, when they had banana fritters 
every time they forgot to order meals. 
vSometimes the cook, in his mistaken 
zeal, adds a few courses to a carefully 
prepared menu, and the agonized 
hostess may find herself presiding 
over three kinds of dessert in succes- 
sion; or perhaps a few toothpicks 
floating in the finger-bowl give a 
touch of Chinese originality. 

As a rule, the Filipinos do not make 
good servants : they are apt to be lazy 
or thievish, and are most unreliable. 
As soon as a native gets his wages, he 
often disappears without warning, 
realizing that the two or three dollars 
earned will support him for several 
weeks. So whv work until he needs 



26 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 




Philippine House of the Second Class, showing Oyster Shell Shutters 



more? The natives are universally 
employed as cocheros, to drive and 
care for the small Andalusian ponies 
which are used in the islands. Even 
horse -feed is peculiar in this part of 
the world. When a bill is presented 
itemizing tekitiki, zacati, palai, and 
miel for the ponies, it may be a surprise 
to find that their meals consist of 
marsh grass, rice stalks, and coarse- 
ground rice, accompanied by a bucket 
of honey and water. 

When our people first went to the 
islands, there were only native mar- 
kets, filled with clouds of flies and 
odors, which only an Oriental could 
endure. The one ice-plant was run 
on Spanish methods: when the pro- 
prietor was awake and thought of it, 
if the machinery was not broken, he 
made some ice. Now the insular 
government has built several large 
markets, with concrete flooring and 
wrought-iron stands, which are flushed 
every night. The government is also 
running one of the largest cold-storage 



buildings and ice -plants in the world, 
where distilled water is distributed 
free during the cholera epidemics. In- 
vestigation has shown that every glass 
of city water in Manila may contain 
the germs of deadly disease, and con- 
stant personal supervision of the 
drinking water must be the first duty 
of every housekeeper. Into the mar- 
kets are brought fresh fish, shrimp, 
vegetables, including yams, rice, and 
native produce, and many varieties of 
strange tropical fruits, as well as the 
familiar orange, banana, and pine- 
apple. 

The army officers and their families 
have the use of the commissary, where 
they can buy all supplies at wholesale 
prices. For the civilian, life in Manila 
is very expensive. Wages and rents 
have trebled since American occupa- 
tion, and, at present, a Filipino gets 
from five to twenty pesos, or Mexican 
dollars, per month (equal to half that 
sum in our money). A Chinese cook 
demands from thirty dollars (Mexican) 



American Housekeeping in Manila 



127 



up, while his under-servants are paid 
twenty or twenty-five pesos. Never- 
theless, people with very modest in- 
comes are able to live comfortably, 
keeping a pony and one or two ser- 
vants. Many families have recourse 
to the never-failing canned goods. 
Always ready for an emergency, so 
easily prepared, and, above all, germ- 
proof, the "tin can" is the true friend 
and constant comrade of the Philip- 
pine American. But this faithful- 
ness is rewarded by the utmost scorn, 
when anything fresh can be obtained, 
and one of the favorite pastimes of 
homesick epicures is planning the first 
meal they will order, when they reach 
"God's country." 

Diet is practically the same as at 
home, but meals are served at differ- 
ent hours : breakfast, from seven thirty 
to nine; "tiffin," as it is called all over 
the East, at one ; and dinner, at eight. 

Trading companies import a con- 
stant supply of delicacies, — pheas- 
ants, game of all kinds, frozen beef 



and mutton, fancy cheeses, turkeys 
from Vermont, butter fresh from 
Australia or in tins from Denmark, 
and St. Charles condensed cream, an 
excellent substitute for the real article. 
The better class of Spanish and 
Filipino houses have been utilized by 
our people, and have proven most 
satisfactory for the tropics. The 
lower story is usually of stone, un- 
occupied save for servants' quarters 
or the stable. Even in many of the 
best houses carriages are kept in the 
hall, into which you drive, and go 
directly from victoria to salon or 
combined upper hall and dining- 
room. Door-bells are practically un- 
known, and it is a common occurrence 
for callers to catch sight of fleeing 
dressing-gowns, or to walk in upon a 
dinner to which they have not been 
invited. The rooms are all large, with 
floors and woodwork of indigenous 
hard wood, resembling mahogany, and 
capable of a very high polish. These 
floors were the especial pride of the 




American Touches in an Old Spanish House 



128 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 




Sala or Hall in Pliilippine House of the Better Class, showing Polished Floor 



old Spanish senoras, and their method 
of caring for them is still in use. A 
piece of sacking, moistened with kero- 
sene, as a preventive for white ants, 
is first passed over every board, fol- 
lowed by several native boys solemnly 
skating up and down the glistening 
surface with large bunches of banana 
leaves tied to their feet. There are 
no windows in the houses, but a series 
of sliding shutters extends around the 
upper story, where the family live. 
These are perhaps six by two feet in 
size, and filled with small squares of 
translucent oyster shell. 

The Philippine bed has been an ob- 
ject of awe and discomfort to many 
upon first acquaintance. It is a large, 
four-posted affair, with the indispensa- 
ble mosquito net. Instead of springs, 
there is stretched cane, like the seat 
of a chair, over this is laid a single 
blanket or mat, and a single sheet 
constitutes the covering. First ex- 
periences on such a . bed consist in 
trying to find the least hard spot all 



night, and the result is a condition of 
body resembling a waffie in the morn- 
ing ; but its cool and sanitary construc- 
tion has caused almost universal 
adoption. The bed is of service by 
night and day; for the siesta soon be- 
comes an established habit, and, during 




American Housekeeping in Manila 



129 



the noon hour, Manila is Hke a city 
of the dead ; stores are closed ; the 
streets, glaring and white in the trop- 
ical sun, are deserted; and every 
man, woman, and child' passes this 
uncomfortable period in the sensible 
and pleasant form of sleep. 

After a Manila house is running 
smoothly and the mistress realizes 
that her servants will work without 
her constant supervision (and, if they 
do not, she has probably absorbed 
enough of the spirit of the Orient not 
to worry), she begins to discover many 
spare hours, which she never before 
felt free to utilize. She takes her 



usual evening drive on the Luneta, 
or Malacon Boulevard, bordered by 
palms, with the sea and the glory of 
a tropical sunset on one side, and the 
old city wall and conventos on the other. 
From five to eight, everybody is out, 
for this is Manila's social hour. There 
is always music, either the stirring 
march of a military band or the swing 
of a Filipino waltz. The cool breezes 
from the bay make the temperature 
delightful. Carriages are halted side 
by side for a friendly gossip ; and it will 
not be strange if the housekeeper says 
to her friend, "They understand some 
things better over here, after all." 




Sunset from the Luneta 



There's a purple tint on the woodland leaves, 

And the winds are up all day; 
There's a rustUng heard in the yellow leaves, 

And it sadly seems to say. 
Sweet summer has gone away. 

In the wrinkled brook no roses peep, 

And the bees no longer stray, 
And the butterflies have gone to sleep; 

And the locust trills all day. 
Sweet summer has gone away. 

Selected. 




The above was taken from a three year, grafted chestnut tree, grown on the grounds of the 
William H. Moon Co., Glenwood Nurseries, Morrisville, Pa. 



Italian Chestnuts 

By Julia Davis Chandler 



FROM the north of Italy come 
the giant chestnuts so beloved 
by the Italians and French. 

In France they are used for the 
filling of roast poultry, for preserves 
and confectionery; and delicious in- 
deed are the French marrons in all 
forms. If you really do not think so, 
you must not say so, since it is gastro- 
nomical heresy to admit the fact. 

Chestnuts may be deviled, with red 
pepper and salt, in slices, to replace 
salted almonds (for a relish) or cooked 
in a highly seasoned brown sauce 
for an entree. For a dessert they 
may be boiled and served with whipped 
cream flavored with vanilla. 

When preserved, they are usually 



put in a vanilla syrup, sometimes 
maraschino. 

Bricks of vanilla ice-cream (without 
eggs) are made now with one layer 
of preserved chestnuts accompanied 
by a rich egg sauce, flavored with 
sherry. 

In Naples street venders sell them 
to the poor, and a godsend they are; 
and even the well-to-do are not above 
lowering a basket for some, also, from 
their windows. 

During the winter season a flour 
made of chestnuts is for sale. In 
New York it costs about twenty-five 
cents a pound. 

It is pale yellow and very sweet, 
retaining: the true chestnut fiavor. 



The New Age 



131 



This may be boiled for mush, which 
is to be shced and fried in oHve oil; 
or, flavored only with a little salt, 
it may be fried like a griddle-cake 
for breakfast, to be eaten without 
syrup or even sugar. 

The dish most highly esteemed 
is a cake to be served with wine, usu- 
ally. This is called 

Castagniaccio 

The chestnut flour is sifted and 
seasoned with a little salt, and mixed 
with water to a very thin batter, 
about like molasses, so that it w411 
pour. Plenty of English walnuts, in 
halves, are added. The large baking- 
pan is well-oiled, sufficient being 
added to saturate the crust of the 
cake. Fennel seeds are sprinkled on 
the pan. The batter is poured in. 
More olive oil and fennel seeds are 
put over the top as well. No eggs 



or baking-powder, the oil supplying 
shortening and making it very rich 
indeed. 

For two hours this must bake until 
the upper and lower crusts are of a 
chocolate brown, and the interior 
a pale yellow-brown color. 

It is eaten either freshly baked or 
after several days. 

The fennel seeds are not generally 
liked by Americans, who prefer cara- 
way to any other seed for cakes, just 
as the Germans like poppy-seed rolls 
(Mohn), and dill seed for pickles. 
The writer thinks coriander would 
be preferable for this cake; but fen- 
nel is the correct thing to use, to 
make a " really-truly " Italian castag- 
niaccio. 

Japanese chestnut-trees are for sale 
by our dealers in trees and shrubs, 
and the accompanying plate shows 
a mammoth chestnut burr. 




The New Age 

When navies are forgotten, 
And fleets are useless things, 

When the dove shall warm her bosom 
Beneath the eagle's wing. 

When the memory of battles 
, At last is strange and old, 
When nations have one banner 
And creeds have found one fold, 

When the Hand that sprinkles midnight 
With its powdered drift of suns 

Has hushed this tiny tumult 

Of sects and swords and guns, — 

Then Hate's last note of discord 
In all God's worlds shall cease, 

And the strenuous life mean service, 
And the common goal be Peace ! 



Frederic Lawrence Knowles. in the Christian Endeavor World. 



The Achievement of Youth 



By Katherine Louise Smith 



THE resolve to be young phys- 
ically and mentally is in the 
air. We are learning the 
new wisdom of hygiene, fresh air, ex- 
ercise, cleanliness, — all those aids to 
correct living that are beginning to 
influence our lives materially. Above 
all, we are beginning to catch a glimpse 
of the great truth that we are largely 
old as a matter of disposition, that 
it is the inner eye that looks out at 
life and decides whether we are youth- 
ful or not. Mental maturity and 
physical old age are not one and the 
same thing in the start, but they can 
become so, and the cultivation of the 
former brings on the latter; for we 
are young as we think ourselves 
young. 

One of the essential preservers of 
youth is the cultivation of a genial, 
happy disposition, which looks upon 
the rosy rather than the dark side of 
life, and tries to make the best of 
things. It is wonderful how the 
persistent looking at the one bright 
spot, which every one has, even if in 
some cases it seems infinitesimal, 
can be encouraged until it becomes 
a habit. A certain serenity of mind 
is indispensable to a healthy body, 
and the fretful worry, which make a 
mountain out of a molehill and sees 
no good in anything is one of the 
shortening processes of life. 

It is true that a certain ambition 
is necessary for mankind to progress, 
and stagnation is worse than annihi- 
lation; but the worrying individual 
of either sex, who harrows his own 
life and the lives of those around him 
by premonitions of evil, is a disturber 
of the atmosphere and should not be 
tolerated. Of either sex the female 



evil- worrier is the worse. Possessed 
of a more sensitive organism than 
man, she bustles about from one 
thing to another, never is quiet her- 
self or allows others to be, rouses the 
family early in the morning for fear 
the work will drag, sends the children 
and male members ofl" with teeth on 
edge, and settles back with the com- 
plaisant air of one ' ' who has done her 
duty." Finally, she becomes a vic- 
tim of nervous prostration, or some 
other nervous disease, and is a care to 
the very people she continually har- 
assed when well, and all because 
worry first started her on the path of 
restless energy. Give us reposeful 
men and women, but, above all, give 
us the latter. 

It is easier to advise against worry 
than to utilize the advice. Worry 
causes more sleeplessness than any 
other cause, for to be happy gener- 
ally insures a good night. Gener- 
ally speaking, it is the result of fear, 
anxiety, and doubt, but, whatever be 
the cause, it excites the nervous sys- 
tem to excess. A peculiar fact about 
this bugbear is that the more civil- 
ized and complex our relations, the 
more our mental condition becomes 
unbalanced, and the more opportu- 
nities are given for worry to take 
root. Worry exerts a depressing ef- 
fect on the body and pulls us down 
generally. It impairs respiration, de- 
creasing thereby the amount of oxy- 
gen in the blood. It increases the 
action of the heart and lessens our 
powers of resistance. Most of all, 
the stomach and intestines are influ- 
enced, and the worry-lover lays him- 
self liable to the influence of death- 
dealing germs and microbes. 



The Achievement of Youth 



^33 



Regarding the best means of pre- 
venting or mitigating the various 
forms of mental worry, it is difficult 
to say, but they consist in treating 
the cause. We must learn that we 
can cultivate happiness and that con- 
fidence which brings invigorating hope. 
Above all, we must learn the mission 
of mirth, — that wonderful secret which 
improves the health and appearance, 
helps people over hard places, and 
makes life generally a success. Al- 
ready we are learning this secret, 
which our forefathers hardly guessed 
at, for our American humor stands 
as typical of the American through- 
out the world. Though the Puritan 
and Dutch ancestry, which serves as 
a basis for heredity, is hardly condu- 
cive to the cultivation of wit, the 
American of late years has grasped 
a binding quality of humor, which 
sees the funny side of life, and bridges 
the chasm of race and creed. Laugh- 
ter without a cynical note, is a 
dispeller of evil, a foe to fear, and 
one of the most desirable character- 
istics, in a physical way; for it acts 
upon the digestive system by caus- 
ing the nerves and muscles to relax. 

It is on the hardy frontier that our 
American humor first developed, and 
it has grown so rapidly that many 
people are seizing the first opportu- 
nity to laugh at the ups and downs of 
life. The good-natured way in which 
our men take their privations and 
wounds in battle has been commented 
on in all countries, and called forth 
admiration. With a literature that 
has grown out of the inimitable humor 
of such m-en as Mark Twain and Bret 
Harte, who shall say how much cheery 



laughter has helped to decrease the 
death-rate ? 

No obstacle seems insurmountable 
to the man or woman who has stopped 
worrying, and has learned the secret 
of smiling at difficulties. The very 
worry will cease in the mood which 
laughter brings, and the cheering 
smile has saved many a situation 
that might have become tragic. 

There is no doubt that our ancestors 
took life too seriously. They became 
mature at a much earlier age than 
we do, because they had not learned 
the secret we are just beginning to 
grasp, that we are young as long as 
our thoughts are. The don't worry 
fad is a helping feature of this thought, 
and cannot be too vigorously incul- 
cated. So is laughing with others and 
at the ills of our own life. We must 
enlarge our mental radius, and, as 
we become accustomed to the new 
atmosphere created by a wider hori- 
zon, by the ability to overlook trifles, 
we shall be making unprecedented 
advances toward achieving undying 
youth and the good nature that ac- 
companies it. Its attainment will 
be according to the receptivity of the 
individual and his environments; but 
it can be done, as is indicated by that 
hopeful spirit of looking for the best 
of things which is gradually perme- 
ating American society. Way down 
under the dead level of mediocrity 
there is a sub-stratum spirit of good 
will toward men, and slowly but 
surely this is leavening the whole 
lump, bringing contentment, and 
ability to view things from the right 
angle, and many other factors neces- 
sary to the attainment of longevity. 



FIRST, do nothing inconsiderately, nor without a purpose. Second, make 
thy acts refer to nothing else than to a social end. 

Marcus A urelius A ntoniniis: 



Kitchen Accessories 



By P. G. Gulbranson 



j4 S a result of advancing civiliza- 
/ % tion, the manner of life be- 
X. jL comes more complex, the stan- 
dard of living changes, and whatever 
enables us to make the most of oppor- 
tunity, to economize time and labor, 
and to make life more comfortable, 
naturally receives close attention. The 
unrest created by new conditions stim- 
ulates research in new or hitherto little 
exploited fields ; and, as a result, many 
labor-saving devices are brought for- 
ward, having a wide range of appli- 
cation. Among these are many which 
simplify the routine of household 
labor, and serve to eliminate some 
of its drudgery. So important has 
the science of food preparation be- 
come that the teaching of it is a rec- 
ognized profession, enlisting intelli- 
gence and enthusiasm in its service. 

The old-time kitchen, especially in 
the country, which was also dining 
and living room, was often of consid- 
erable size. Of conveniences such 
as we know, there was great lack; 
and, before everything had been put 
away after a meal, quite a journey 
had been made. But under present 
conditions it is a mistake to have 
a large kitchen. What we want is 
not an extended floor space, but an 
arrangement which shall save steps, 
which shall put accessories within 
easy reach, and which shall simplify 
the service of the dining-room. Now 
it is often difficult to do much under 
some conditions of plan : the awkward 
points will always be in evidence. 

We will discuss, first, some*exist- 
ing kitchens. In Plan A the best 
place for the gas range is between the 
coal range and the dining-room door. 
This door, by the way, is a poor con- 



trivance: it is a heavy door, swinging 
both ways. If such an arrangement 
is insisted upon, this door should be 
very light and thin, so that a light 
blow would open it wide. While it 
is very useful in a restaurant, it is 
entirely out of place in a private house. 

Over the gas range is a good place 
for some shelves, where may be kept 
various kinds of seasoning, and where 
ladles, spoons, and forks may hang, 
and, perhaps, a skillet or two. Shelves 
may also be provided on the wall 
next to the entry door; while at the 
double window the table would nat- 
urally be placed. 

If instead of the double window 
there had been a single window, say 
three feet from the cellar-way, on this 
wall there would have been a fine 
place for the sink with a good ledge 
at either end. The coal range could 
then have been placed where the sink 
is at present, and the gas range moved 
to the space now occupied by the 
coal range. By this distribution not 
only would there have been more 
available floor space, but both range 
and sink would have been better 
lighted. 

In Plan B the kitchen is very small 
and cramped, but with the accessories 
suggested the conditions are improved. 
In this house the attempt to get a 
special fireplace feature in the hall 
is marked. A narrow hall would 
have permitted the straightening of 
the kitchen wall, and the fireplace 
could very well be omitted in this 
small house. With a little contriving 
the back stairs could have been so 
designed as to enlarge the pantry 
and give a more convenient space for 
the refrigerator in the entry.' 



Kitchen Accessories 



135 



Let us now consider two kitchens the heat would be overcome and the 
not yet built, where we can have our kitchen made more comfortable. The 
own way. In Plan C a partition, sink and ranges are near the dining- 




SC-AUE OF FEET 



PLAXE ' I 




3 6 o la- 

I i I I I I I I I 1 I I I 




as shown by the dotted line, is dropped, room, making service easy, while 

making a sort of hood, six feet and between the entry and pantry doors 

eight inches from the floor. With a is a space available for a dresser such 

ventilator in the chimney and the as is illustrated in Plate II. The 

window in the range recess, much of pantry is light, has a good supply of 



136 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



shelving, and a wide table shelf under 
the window. 

In Plan D the fittings suggested 
are about the same as in Plan 
C, but the position of the ranges 
is different, as in Plan C the coal 
range has a recess to itself large 
enough to admit of easy manipula- 
tion and is isolated. By means of 
window and ventilator the heat is 
regulated. Moreover, with the addi- 
tion of some sort of a curtain on 
a pole or roller at the front, under the 
dropped partition, the heat could in 
a measure be confined to the recess 



and the main room be kept compar- 
atively cool. 

Plate II. illustrates some accesso- 
ries suggested on the plans. A set 
of shelves previously mentioned, to 
contain salt, etc., should have a place 
in every kitchen, convenient to the 
range, to obviate the necessity of 
going to a closet for these articles 
and of carrying them back. Many 
a step and considerable time will thus 
be saved. Objection is often made 
to having anything of the kind in 
sight, but the objection is not valid; 
for, as the kitchen is a workshop. 




DRE5SER 



PLV^TE II 




se:rvinc 

WAGON 



(^ 




RAAiCE 
SHELVES 



An Old Art Revived 



137 



professional implements should be so 
placed that they may be easily 
reached. 

The dresser shown on Plate II. is 
a plain but useful piece of, furniture. 
Built six feet six inches high and 
from two feet three to six inches wide, 
it contains closed cupboards, a drawer, 
a compartment with a drop-lid and 
curtained shelves. The middle com- 
partment has spaces for cook-books 
and account-books, pigeon-holes for 
stationery, and pins for filing bills 
and Hsts of items. The drop-lid 
makes a convenient desk where bills 
may be audited and the cook-books 
studied. 

The serving wagon shown on Plate 
II. is adapted to simplifying the din- 
ing service. A good size is eighteen 
by twenty inches and twenty-eight 
inches high, including casters. On 



it may be placed everything for the 
meal of a moderate household; and 
especially is its usefulness apparent, 
if there be no servant, for one need 
not get up to change dishes, since 
these may readily be passed from 
table to wagon and vice versa. 

Though our field be a large one, 
space for discussion is limited; and 
I will close with some notes on that 
popular machine, the ice-cream freezer. 
Every one who has had anything to 
do with it has noticed that, as the oper- 
ation progresses, more energy is re- 
quired to turn the crank and to keep 
the freezer steady. Now, if the tub 
were fastened by means of elbows 
and thumb-screws to a stout, heavy 
bench, the power wasted in holding 
the freezer in place would be utilized 
in turning the crank, the arms reliev- 
ing each other, turn about. 



An Old Art Revived 

By Celestine Cummings 



IN the days of the "Wayside Inn" 
pyrography went by the name of 
"Poker Work," or "Painting by 
Fire." The artist of the company 
assembled in the village tavern would 
heat the poker at the open fireplace 
and bum his inspiration into the walls. 
Noticing the effect of the crude lights 
and shadows on his work no doubt in- 
spired him to more ambitious efforts, 
for these pictures often represented 
some woodland scene, which came to 
the memory, or some amusing situa- 
tion in which his friends had figured. 
From this simple beginning came 
the development of "pyrography." 
The result of the work of these artists 



of "ye olden time" may still be seen 
in old-fashioned inns and lodges in 
Europe, and it is the study of these 
mediaeval scenes and portraits that 
has inspired the present revival; and 
it is becoming more than a "fad." 
Women are beginning to see remark- 
able and beautiful possibilities for the 
art in the decorations of their homes. 
One woman, who has a knack for 
this work, said she had just about fur- 
nished her house with burnt wood- 
work. The work is very fascinating, 
and, if one has any artistic ability in 
other directions, it can easily be trans- 
ferred to this working in wood. I 
have seen exquisite pieces of work 



138 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



on shirt-waist boxes, dower chests, 
picture frames, and many other 
articles. 

Another lady of my acquaintance 
makes a specialty of fruit pieces, which 
are very excellent. Her Dutch boys 
and panels of baby porkers are most 
amusing. 

The owner of a country house in 
England has had the legend of "King 
Arthur" done in pyrography on the 
woodwork of her fireplace. This 
would be a charming use to make of 
the art; so much woodwork is used 
these days in many of our costliest 
residences. Bum into the wood- 
work some inspired fancy of the 
poet's soul, — the famous legends of 
Tennyson and Longfellow's Hiawatha 
and Evangeline. What charming 
figure scenes Shakespeare's heroes 
and heroines would make in their 
picturesque costumes ! 

Wealthy bachelors are taking a 
fancy to the new art. One of the 
best-kno\^m anti-benedicts in railroad 
circles has his "den" literally covered 
with his own handiwork. Seeking 
for "new worlds to conquer," he has 
even undertaken a pictorial autobi- 
ography of his own life, entitled * ' Why 



I'm Single"; but, as he keeps this 
under lock and key, no one has, as 
yet, had a glimpse of it. 

The softer woods are preferred for 
lighter articles, but some people prefer 
the harder woods, thinking they will 
withstand the ravages of time better. 
This speaks well for the art, and so 
hard woods have their market value 
also: although more difficult to "bum 
in," the results are pleasing. Carving 
the wood before burning brings the 
design out stronger. 

Excellent effects can be obtained 
in leather work by using the velvet 
side of calf and sheep skins. Indian 
chiefs' heads and dragons make unique 
and forceful designs, especially if 
touched up discreetly with the brush. 

The ancient Phoenicians' style of 
wood carving was very similar to 
pyrography. Their carving was not 
as original as ours, as the different 
nations borrowed their ideas from 
one another; but their technique was 
the same, the carving and burning 
and touching up with colors. Some 
of the designs, displayed in the art de- 
partment of museums and art galleries, 
are very beautiful and well worth a 
study for ideas. 



An Autumn Longing 

By Kate Matson Post 



Apples, bring me apples, 

On this golden autumn day, 

When far from the din of traffic 
My thoughts are wont to stray. 

And roam among the gnarled old trees 
In an orchard far away. 

Apples, bring me apples; 

There is naught so dull in life, 
In this endless round of toiling, 



This hard, self-seeking strife. 
That is not brightened by the breath 
They bring of a freer life. 

Apples, ripe red apples, 

With their perfume sweet and rare, — 
Ah! what with their rich completeness 

And beauty can compare? 
They are buxom, country lassies, 

Bright, wholesome, and fresh and fair. 



Soups 

By Adolphe Meyer, Chef of Union Club, New York 



THE daily question which con- 
fronts and embarrasses many 
housekeepers is, "What shall 
we have for dinner ? " 

It is but natural that the first sug- 
gestion should be, "a good plate of 
soup." But here we encounter the 
stumbling-block of many women cooks, 
— their knowledge in this particular 
line of cookery is limited. 

It is not essential that all soups 
should be prepared with a basis of 
meat broth. Any number of them 
can be made without meat; and, 
as far as nutriment is concerned, 
they cede nothing whatever to those 
prepared with meat. 

Soups prepared with leguminous 
seeds, as peas, beans, and lentils, 
contain a large quantity of nitro- 
genous food, of which the body is 
most in need, and which will, more 
than any other substance, replace 
meat. 

Another well-known fact is that 
during summer people, and children 
especially, will more readily take 
liquid food than in winter. 

Two plates will invariably be cleaned 
out by a child, and these are the soup 
and ice-cream plates. 

Therefore, for three reasons we 
suggest soup: first, because of its 
salubrity; second, because every- 
body likes it, if well prepared; third, 
on account of its being an econom- 
ical dish. 

Meat Broth (Bouillon) 
The ordinary practice in prepar- 
ing meat broth, or bouillon, is to 
take (5ne quart of water to one pound 
of lean meat. A reasonable allow- 
ance shotild be made, however, for 
the evaporation of the liquid. 



The recipe below will be sufficient 
for one hundred persons. By increas- 
ing the vegetables, and with the 
addition of two small heads of cab- 
bage, the Pot-au-Feu is obtained, 
which is the national soup of the 
French. 

The beef may be served as a course 
in conjunction with the vegetables 
and some tomato, piquant, or horse- 
radish sauce. 

Recipe. — Twenty pounds of lean 
beef, one pound of carrots, twelve 
ounces of turnips, eight ounces of 
leeks, six ounces of soup celery, 
three onions stuck with six cloves, 
foiu: ounces of salt, six gallons of 
water, two or three ripe tomatoes 
ad libitum. 

The beef should be cut in suitable 
pieces and tied with a string. If 
it is to be eaten, have it from the 
shoulder, the round, the cross ribs, 
or the brisket, although the latter 
two are rather fat. If it is to be used 
for soup only, the shin and neck are 
to be used. 

It is natmal that the broth will 
gain in sapidity through the addi- 
tion of chicken giblets. Bones may 
be added. But let it be remembered 
that they contain little or no nu- 
tritious matter: they give, however, 
a rich appearance to the broth, on 
account of the gelatine which they 
contain. 

Place the meat with the cold water 
in a stock boiler, and set over the 
fire. When it begins to boil, remove 
the scum that rises to the surface. 
Add the salt and one pint of cold 
water, to aid the rising of some more 
scum. When the soup is well cleared, 
add the vegetables, which should be 
tied in a net or cheese-cloth. Let 



140 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



simmer gently for three to four hours, 
removing the fat and impurities oc- 
casionally. 

When the meats are done, remove 
them from the boiler, and strain the 
broth, which is now ready to receive 
whatever garnishing is to be added. 

This broth is the basis of all meat 
soups. With the addition of a pound 
of chopped lean beef to each gallon 
of broth, consomme is obtained. But 
we shall not enter the field of high- 
class cookery at present. 

This broth, while being a stimu- 
lant, contains very little nutrition; 
but with the addition of farinaceous 
grains, as rice, barley, or oatmeal, 
its nutritive value is augmented. 

The broth may also be garnished 
with vermicelli or other Italian pastes : 
these should be parboiled in water 
for a few minutes, as, otherwise, they 
are liable to deteriorate the flavor 
of the broth. 

The French housewife cuts up the 
vegetables in neat little slices, and 
adds them to the broth; and, on a 
separate dish, she serves thin slices 
of French bread, delicately browned 
in the oven. An adjunct which the 
French use with their soups, and 
which is scarcely known in America, 
is chervil. It is surprising what an 
improvement a few leaves of this 
plant will create when added to the 
soup just before it is served. It 
merits to be known better than it is. 

Another European custom, which in 
this country is practised only in hotels, 
clubs, and high-class restaurants, is to 
serve either grated Parmesan or Swiss 
cheese separate with soups. 

The highest authorities have stated 
that every pound of cheese contains 
twice as much nutriment as the same 
amount of the best meat : it is, there- 
fore, but logical to recommend this 
practice, especially when soups con- 
tain little nitrogenous matter. 



A tablespoonful to a plate of soup 
is a great improvement. 

Puree Soups of Legumes 

Soups prepared with legumes are, 
as stated previously, the most nu- 
tritious. To. make them of easier 
digestion, the outer skin should be 
removed by rubbing the cooked seeds 
through a sieve or a strainer. Soups 
obtained through this procedure are 
what the French call a puree. 

These soups can be prepared with- 
out meat; but, if there is a stray ham 
bone around, it will increase the 
flavor, otherwise a piece of bacon or 
salt pork may be added; either of 
the latter two can be made use of 
for another dish, which we shall 
describe later on. 

Proportion for one hundred persons. 

Recipe. — Twelve pounds of legumes 
{i.e., peas, beans, or lentils), two 
large carrots, four onions stuck with 
six cloves, four leeks, a bunch of 
soup celery, a fagot of parsley with 
two bay leaves, two ham bones or 
one pound of salt pork, five gallons 
of water, salt, and a pinch of sugar. 
Allow the legumes to soak in water 
over night. Then drain, and set 
them on the fire with the cold water. 
As soon as it boils, remove the scum. 
Add the vegetables and the meat, 
and allow to cook for three hours. 
If the water be hard, add a teaspoon- 
ful of bicarbonate of soda. Add 
the salt only at the last moment, as 
salt hardens the water, thus retard- 
ing the cooking of the legumes. 

When the seeds are cooked, re- 
move the vegetables and meat. Stir 
the legumes briskly, so as to mash 
them, then rub through a sieve. 
Pour the soup into a clean pan, and 
let it boil once more. Remove the 
scum, season to taste, adding a 
pinch of sugar, and the soup is ready 
to serve. An addition of cream or 



Soups 



141 



butter is not objectionable, but not 
absolutely necessary. 

These soups are generally garnished 
with small pieces of bread about three- 
eighths an inch square, either toasted 
in the oven or fried crisp. Some plain 
boiled rice may also be added. 

The salt pork or bacon, which was 
used for the flavoring of the soup, 
can be used for many other dishes, 
as, for instance, potatoes with salt 
pork, a popular French dish, which 
fevery French housewife can prepare 
in perfection. 

Potatoes with Pork 
Recipe. — Cut the salt pork in half- 
inch square pieces, and brown lightly 
in butter, with three or four onions 
cut fine. Add four or five table- 
spoonfuls of flour, and allow it to 
cook for a few minutes, stirring it 
all the time, and then moisten with 
three quarts of water. Peel three 
dozen large potatoes, cut each in 
six pieces, and add them to the sauce. 
Also add salt and a fagot of parsley, 
with a sprig of thyme, and three bay 
leaves, cover the pan, and cook over 
a slow fire. When done, remove the 
fagot and the fat from the sauce, dish 
up, and besprinkle with freshly 
chopped parsley. 

Tomato Pilau 
Cut up the .pork, and fry crisp, 
adding four chopped onions, and 
allowing these to cook, but not to 
brown. Then add two quarts of 
canned, or, preferably, stewed fresh 
tomatoes and one quart of broth (or 
water). When boiling, add three 
pints of well-picked rice. Add salt 
and a fagot of herbs, cover the pan, 
and finish to cook slowly. Do not 
stir the rice with a spoon or any other 
implement, as the rice, of which 
every grain should be separate, would 
be in danger of being mashed. 



Thus the pork may be used in 
various ways: it can be added to 
scrambled eggs, to green peas, or 
string beans, etc. 

Before concluding this article, I 
would like to add a few more words 
about economical soups. Unfortu- 
nately, little is known of them in 
this country; and, meat being com- 
paratively cheap, the wife of the 
workingman or laborer buys steaks 
or chops or other chunks of meat 
in preference to making soups. 

In Europe, where the workingman 
gets less wages, and where foodstuffs 
are nearly as high in price as here 
(even higher sometimes), the house- 
wife has to think of how to make 
both ends meet. The principal dish 
there, which is at the same time 
wholesome and economical, is soup; 
and, not ,to repeat the same soup 
daily, the housewife has to think of 
variety, and she does so. We could 
enumerate a great number of soups, 
which could be ranged under this 
heading. We will, however, append 
but two recipes, which will serve as 
patterns. Variation can be brought 
into the bill of fare by a thoughtful 
housekeeper, who can substitute one 
vegetable for another. 

Cauliflower Soup 

Proportions for fifty people. 

Four heads of caulifiower, one half- 
pound of butter, one-half pound of 
flour, five quarts of milk, five quarts 
of water, salt, a pinch of sugar, and 
nutmeg. 

Select some nice cauliflower. Clean 
and wash it well, and cut it up in 
small pieces, throw them into the 
five quarts of boiling and lightly 
salted water, and allow to cook 
slowly. 

Meantime prepare a thickening with 
the butter and flour. Cook together 
over a slow fire ■ from ten to fifteen 



142 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



minutes, being careful not to brown 
the flour. Then moisten by degrees 
with the milk, which should be boiled, 
but not be boiling. Drain the cauli- 
flower, when it is done, and add the 
water in which it was cooked to the 
soup. Allow to boil up, season to 
taste with salt, and a pinch, each, 
of sugar and grated nutmeg. Add 
the cauliflower, and serve. 

Small crusts of bread may be given 
along separately. 

Leek and Potato Soup 
Proportions for fifty persons. 
Eighteen or twenty medium-sized 
potatoes, twenty-four stalks of leeks, 
one-half a pound of butter, nine quarts 
of water, one quart of cream or milk, 
ten egg yolks, salt, and a pinch of 
nutmeg. 

Clean the leeks, slice fine, and wash 



well. Heat the butter in a sauce- 
pan. Add the drained leeks, and 
smother in butter until their humid- 
ity is evaporated, then moisten with 
the water. 

Peel the potatoes, and cut them 
either in one-half inch squares or in 
neat slices, the size of a twenty-five- 
cent piece, wash them well, and add 
to the soup, which cook slowly to 
finish. 

Season to taste with salt and nut- 
meg. Before serving, beat well the 
cream or milk with the egg yolks, 
and add them to the soup. Heat 
well, but do not allow to boil. 

To this soup could be added celery 
or sorrel. Chervil is also an improve- 
ment. Toasted sippets of bread should 
be served separately. 

The cost of the latter two soups 
is about three cents per plate. 



The Rose of Roots 

By Mrs. Lylie O. Harris 



THUS is the lowly but lovable 
onion apostrophized by some 
culinary rhapsodist who avers 
that what the rose is in the garden 
of flowers, so is the onion in the garden 
of vegetables. Who among gourmets 
will say him nay? Without the onion 
would there be any gastronomic art? 
From its presence the simplest dish 
gains flavor and savor, while without 
it the rarest is insipid. 

Yet the eater of raw onions feels 
that, as one who loves his fellow-men, 
he must, also, be one who is set apart 
from them. The price of indulgence 
is seclusion, for a season at least, 
unless, indeed, he be so blessed as to 
live in a community of raw onion- 
eaters. Then without fear of social 



taboo may he partake openly of that 
root, which has but one fault linked 
to a thousand virtues. But now 
that beauty culturists have decided 
that a raw onion diet whitens and 
beautifies the skin, it will not be long 
before it makes its way to court, 
openly and unabashed. 

For a long time raw onions have 
been prescribed for sleeplessness, to 
be eaten chopped, with bread and but- 
ter, an hour or so before going to bed. 
Medicinally, they are said to be use- 
ful in nervous prostration, and of 
happy effect in coughs, colds, influenza, 
and scurvy, while the red onion is an 
excellent diuretic. 

But it is not of the onion medici- 
nally that I would now speak, nor 



The Rose of Roots 



143 



of the onion raw. Excellent as it 
is, eaten that way, — and thousands 
acclaim their devotion to it, — there 
are, tmfortunately, many other thou- 
sands to whom its breath is the breath 
of the destroyer. These are they 
who would like to see a law passed 
against the eating of raw onions, 
any infringement of which should be 
punished with solitary confinement. 

But who is there with a refined 
palate who would cavil at the pres- 
ence of onion cunningly enwrought 
in soup, or sauce, or roast, or stew? 
WTiere the most supersensitive nos- 
tril that could take offence at the 
dehcious odor diffused by this rose 
of the roots, thus skilfully entreated 
by the cunning of the cook? Now, 
indeed, all that raw, rank taste, which 
offends the hypercritical, is quite van- 
ished, leaving instead a flavor that gives 
color and enchantment to the dish. 

The French, who seldom use the 
onion raw, rarely prepare a cooked 
dish without it. Yet it is never over- 
whelmed with it, seasoned only juste 
au pointe. The mere recollection of 
one of those savory potages is enough 
to induce a smacking of the lips. 

Next to the pot-au-feu, onion soup 
may be said to be the national dish 
of France, dear to the palate of rich 
and poor alike. Among the Creoles 
of Louisiana it is just as popular, they 
having received it as a heritage from 
their ancestors. Delicate, nutritious, 
palatable, and economical, relished 
by young and old, good for the in- 
valid as well as the robust, small 
wonder that it takes high rank. This 
onion soup comes to table without 
a suspicion of onion about it, just a 
delicately flavored, clear, straw-col- 
ored liquid of the consistency of thin 
cream. 

Cream-of-onion soup as prepared 
by the Louisiana Creoles is made as 
follows: A dozen mild-flavored onions 



of medium size are minced and fried 
to a pale yellow in the best butter. 
To this are added three pints of water, 
seasoned to taste with salt, black and 
red pepper. Boil slowly for half an 
hour. Have ready in the tureen the 
yolks of three eggs, well beaten. To 
this add the soup slowly, a little at 
a time, beating well, until the yolks 
are well mixed with the soup. This 
may be strained or not. It may have 
a little boiling cream added to it, and 
some chopped parsley. It should be 
served hot with crackers or croutons. 
It is good for luncheon, good for dinner, 
good for the tired worker at night 
just before going to bed. and many 
people think it good for breakfast. 

Irish potato croquettes are as good 
again, if a little fine-minced onion 
be stirred into them before frying; 
while cold boiled Irish potatoes, cut 
into dice, and mixed with a little 
minced onion, a little milk, and a thin 
slice or two of breakfast bacon, and 
all cooked together for about fifteen 
minutes, then seasoned with a dash 
of tabasco pepper, makes a dish too 
good for many a king. 

Garlic is hardly to be mentioned in 
polite society: yet it often makes 
its entree there, albeit under the rose. 
The world's most famous sauces would 
lose their piquant flavor, were garlic 
denied right of entry therein, only 
the world does not know this. The 
finest home-made catsups owe much 
of their delicious flavor to garlic, 
while the tiniest bit of it imparts a 
relish inimitable to the salad bowl. 
Inserted in a roast of beef or mutton 
or a ham to be baked, it gives those 
meats a flavor indescribably delicious, 
yet so elusive that only the cook knows 
how to classify it. But garlic must 
be used with a nice discretion that 
amounts to genius. Just an iota too 
much, and the refined palate will 
have none of it. 



144 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



THE BOSTON COOKING- 
SCHOOL MAGAZINE 

OF 

Culinary Science and Domestic Economics. 
Janet McKenzie Hill, Editor. 

PUBLISHED TEN TIMES A YEAR, 

Official Journal of the Boston Cook- 
ing-School. 

Publication Office : 
372 BuYLSTON Street, Boston, Mass. 

Subscription, $1,00 per Year. Single Copies, ioc. 
Advertising Rates furnished on Application. 

TO SUBSCRIBERS 

The Boston Cooking-School Magazine is sent 
until ordered discontinued, and arrearages 
are paid. 

The date stamped on the wrapper is the 
date on which your subscription expires : it 
is, also, an acknowledgment that a subscrip- 
tion, or a renewal of the same, has been re- 
ceived. 

Please renew on receipt of the colored 
blank enclosed for this purpose. 

When sending notice to renew subscription 
or change address, please give the old address 
as well as the new. 

In referring to an original entry, we must 
know the name as it was formerly given, to- 
gether with the Post-office, County, State, 
Post-office Box, or Street Number. 

Entered at Boston Post-office as second-class matter. 

THE SEASON OF MIGRATION 

HOME, sweet, sweet home, again 
at last . People in masses have 
been out on a grand holiday. 
For weeks, now past, like a vast 
migration, the returning tide of 
travel from mountain and shore has 
taxed our railroad and steamboat 
lines to their utmost limit. The 
celebrations of Old Home Week, the 
signal growth of summer resorts, 
both in size and number, the crowd- 
ing of ways of transportation, com- 
bine to furnish manifest proof of the 
rapidly increasing popularity of the 
annual vacation. 



Nor can the advantages to health, 
to physical and mental well-being, 
of a summer's outing, be well over- 
estimated. The direct contact with 
earth and sea and sky, the outlook 
on a broader horizon, the contrast 
of Nature, in her varied moods, with 
the routine and strife that pervade 
most lives, is invigorating and health- 
giving, indeed. In brief, it is good 
to the soul for us all to list for a sea- 
son to nature's teachings more and 
less to man's. "Out of silence comes 
thy strength" is Carlyle's expres- 
sion, now trite, of an old truth, but 
in the lives of most men and women 
of our day periods of silent, whole- 
some thought and natural recrea- 
tion are quite too rare. 

We live in crowded ways. The 
affairs and events of modern life move 
swiftly. To keep pace with the long 
strides of the times calls for an effort 
that tasks the strongest nerves. And 
in this growing tendency to a pro- 
longed season of change and rest, 
though pleasure be the motive that 
actuates many, we note an increasing 
interest in matters that pertain to 
healthful living. 

Health is the chief concern in life. 
Whatever tends to foster health- 
giving pursuits is worthy not only 
of commendation, but of cultivation. 
Do we spend time enough in learn- 
ing how to live properly? We train 
the minds of our youth, and are be- 
ginning to train their bodies, in cer- 
tain lines; but in matters of food 
and drink are we not reckless to the 
extreme? Appetite is pampered, and 
the consequences are relegated to 
chance or caprice. 

"I have learned," said a young 
woman who had attended a course 
of lectures on vitosophy, "many 
things about temperament, charac- 
ter, and ways of life which I wish I 
had known before. I should be very 



Editorials 



45 



sorry to be without the invaluable 
knowledge I have lately acquired." 
To know how to avoid evil courses, 
to build up and maintain a healthy 
physical system, is by no means a 
thing of secondary importance. A 
strong and vigorous constitution is 
a lasting possession, a source of joy 
forever, which money cannot buy. 



PLEASURE-SEEKING 

PEOPLE are exceedingly fond 
of pleasure and amusement. 
The only question is, Are 
they not inclined to overdo the busi- 
ness? The summer sojourner re- 
turns from the natural and whole- 
some pleasures of outdoor life to 
plunge into the more distracting and 
exciting scenes of town and city life. 
In all large towns the places of amuse- 
ment are many and conspicuous, 
and they are largely filled at every 
exhibition; while alluring games, ex- 
cursions, holidays, and celebrations 
almost too numerous to mention are 
provided to satisfy the cravings of 
people for entertainment. Again, of 
books and periodicals one has time 
scarcely to read the title-pages, each 
of which assures the reader, or bears 
the challenge, expressed or implied, 
that this is the gem of the year, the 
failure to read which leaves the de- 
linquent behind the times. 

The wonder is that people can 
live so fast and keep it up so long, 
without wreck, as they do. In truth, 
to-day one must of necessity learn 
how to discriminate, to choose as 
to what is best to read and wise to 
do. The conduct of life must be 
regulated and controlled. To pleas- 
ures as well as to responsibilities 
there are bounds and limits. Let us 
learn to make the most of our oppor- 
tunities, and strive to be prepared 
to render in our several callings the 



very best service of which we are 
capable. 

AMERICAN WASTEFULNESS 

THE Brooklyn Eagle takes the 
predicted early failure of the 
natural gas supply as a text 
for sharp criticism of the American 
habit of wastefulness. The giving 
out of the gas, it says, "exemplifies 
a recklessness and wastefulness that 
are peculiar to Americans. They 
chop down their forests by the mile 
and rue it for years after, because 
by so doing they dry up their streams. 
They murder their birds to gratify 
an abnormal passion for shedding 
blood and a more abnormal and de- 
plorable wish to wear the slaughtered 
creatures for personal ornament, and 
thereby expose the farms, gardens, 
and shade-trees to depredations of 
insects. They blast away the Pali- 
sades, and convert one of the most 
beautiful passages of river scenery 
in the world into a rubbish heap. 
They burn coal ferociously in their 
furnaces and ranges and fireplaces, 
and then open all the windows to 
keep moderately cool. They allow 
their servants to deal extravagantly 
in the matter of food, fuel, and lights. 
They cast aside their clothes at a 
stage where the European would 
think they were about right for an- 
other six months' wear. They have 
few small economies and no great 
ones." 

On this item a contemporary edi- 
tor comments as follows : — 

"That this is one of the national 
failings no one will deny. That to a 
certain degree it is the natural con- 
sequence of early conditions in this 
country also cannot be disputed. 
The early settlers of America found 
the natural resources abundant be- 
yond their wildest dreams of possible 



146 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



utilization. To them the boundless 
forests were more of a bar to settle- 
ment than an aid to development, 
and the slaughter of the trees began. 
The idea has prevailed all through 
succeeding generations, until now we 
are confronted by the possibility of 
a timber famine. In other directions 
the conditions are the same, and 
consequently the thriftiest settler be- 
came a spendthrift in what are to-day 
the most valuable resources of the 
United States. As a people, we find 
it difficult to get over the belief that 
in America nature has provided a 
bottomless treasury, proof against 
all sounding by the most senseless 
prodigality. 

"The great opportunities this coun- 
try has offered for advancement in 
wealth also have contributed to the 
natural failing. Immigrants reach 
here filled with the idea that this is 
the land of limitless plenty, and the 
pinching life of the old country gives 
way to wastefulness which takes 
no thought of the morrow. Some 
day Americans, as a people, may 
become saving; but the fact is that 
at present they waste about as much 
as they utilize." 

PROSPECTIVE 

THE Cooking-School Maga- 
zine enters upon the autumn 
season under very favorable 
auspices. We are daily adding to 
our list of subscribers the names of 
young, earnest, and progressive house- 
keepers from every part of this coun- 
try and of Canada. Our correspond- 
ence is most flattering and encourag- 
ing. The fact is impressed upon us 
that there are thoughtful women 
everywhere, who are interested in 
household affairs and are ready to re- 
spond heartily when a real bona fide 
means of learning the best methods, 



new or old, of housekeeping are pre- 
sented to them. 

The Cooking-School Magazine is not 
designed merely to entertain and 
amuse its readers, but to be of prac- 
tical interest and usefulness to them 
in the management of a home. Even 
its illustrations are not prepared to 
make a brilliant display of beautiful 
objects, but to present to the eye 
a few representative articles of actual 
utility and service in the daily life 
of the household. We are convinced 
that our readers belong to the most 
intelligent and progressive class of 
home-makers in the land ; and through 
them, in large measure, we hope to 
extend our future patronage and 
consequent means of usefulness. 

THOMAS SEDGWICK 
STEELE, several of whose 
paintings have appeared on 
the cover of this magazine, died sud- 
denly, in his carriage, on September 10. 
Mr. Steele was an extensive traveler 
at home and abroad, and a most en- 
thusiastic artist. He described his 
vacation trips in "Paddle and Por- 
tage," "Canoe and Camera," "A Voy- 
age to Viking Land," and other works 
which have been widely read. In 
fish, game, fruit, flowers, and still life 
he ranked among the foremost of 
modern painters. 



TO insure prompt attention, 
our patrons and correspond- 
ents are kindly requested to 
address all letters of business or in- 
quiry intended for this office, to the 
Cooking-school Magazine, 372 Boylston 
Street, Boston, Massachusetts. This 
office is open every business day in 
the year from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. ; and all 
mail matter, provided it be properly 
addressed, will be regularly received 
and promptly answered. 




Seasonable Recipes 



IN all recipes where flour is used, unless otherwise stated, the flour is measured after sifting 
once. When flour is measured by cups, the cup is filled \\-ith a spoon, and a level cupful is 
meant. A tablespoonful or a teaspoonful of any designated material is a level spoonful of such 
material. 

of whipped cream, measured after 
whipping, and more seasoning, if 
needed. Dip the flat side of each 
eclair into a highly flavored brown or 
tomato chaudfroid sauce, and dec- 
orate with bits of hard-boiled white 
of ^gg or truffle, or with both. Brush 
over with liquid aspic jelly. Serve 
on small plates covered with paper 
doilies. 



Sardine or Anchovy Eclairs 
(Cold Hors d'CEuvre) 
Prepare choux paste mixture, and, 
using a tube with half- inch opening, 
press the paste on to buttered baking- 
pans in strips about two and one -half 
inches long and three -fourths an inch 
wide. Bake in an oven with strong 
heat below, until a cake feels light 
when taken up in the hand. When 
cold, split on one side, and fill with the 
following mixture : Pound in a mortar 
half a cup of sardine or anchovy fillets, 
one-fourth a cup of butter, and four 
hard-boiled yolks of eggs, and pass 
through a sieve. Season highly with 
tabasco, salt, if needed, mustard at 
discretion, and a few drops of lemon 
juice, then fold in one-fourth a cup 




Sardine Eclairs 



148 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



Tomato Chaudfroid Sauce 
To a cup of rich tomato sauce, made 
in the usual manner, add one-fourth 



third a cup of tomato or Bechamel 
sauce; add a tablespoonful of butter, 
season highly with tabasco or cayenne, 




Sardine ]^>lairs shaped tor Baking 



a two-ounce package of gelatine, soft- 
ened in one-fourth a cup of cold water. 
vStir until the gelatine is dissolved, 
and use as soon as it is cold enough 
to stiffen slightly. Dip the eclairs 
into the sauce or spread the sauce upon 
them with a- silver knife. The usual 
recipe for eclair mixture (one cup 
each, of water and flour and half a cup 




Ham Croutons 

of butter) will make about thirty-five 
eclairs of the size needed. Twice 
the quantity of filling given will be 
needed, and about a cup of sauce. 

Ham Croutons (Hot Hors 
d'QEuvre) 
vStir three-fourths a cup of fine- 
chopped, cold, boiled ham into one- 



mustard, and kitchen bouquet. Spread 
upon small diamonds of hot toast. 
Cover with grated Parmesan cheese, 
surmounted with buttered bread or 
cracker crumbs. Set in a hot oven, to 
brown the crumbs, and serve at once 
on small plates covered with paper 
doilies. 

Baked Red Snapper 
Split a cleaned fish down the back, 
and take the two fillets from the bones. 
Lay in a buttered baking-dish, skin 
side down. Brush over with melted 
butter, and sprinkle with salt, also 
pepper, if desired. Bake until deli- 
cately browned, half an hour or longer, 
basting every ten minutes with butter 
melted in an equal bulk of hot water 
(the water may be omitted). Gar- 
nish the fish, removed to a serving- 
dish, with slices or quarters of lemon. 
Serve also a rich tomato sauce. 

Red Snapper Saute 
Prepare the fillets as above, then 
cut in pieces suitable for serving. 
Season with salt, and roll in flour, 
to which a little fine-chopped parsley 
has been added. Lay in a frying-pan 



Seasonable Recipes 



149 



m which there is a small portion (one- 
fourth an inch in depth) of hot fat 
tried out from fat salt pork, and cook 
until well browned, then 
turn and cook the other 
side of the fish until 
browned. Serve, with 
French fried potatoes, 
and tomato sauce in a 
dish apart. 



vinegar. Strain out the onion, press- 
ing all the moisture from it. Return 
the few drops of liquid to the sauce- 



Red Snapper Broiled 
Place the fillets of 
fish, removed as above, 
between the parts of 
a well-oiled double- 
broiler. Broil over a 
•clear but not fierce fire. 
Baste often on the flesh side with 
melted butter. Broil principally on 
the flesh side, turning often. Remove 
the fish from the broiler (see page 72, 
August-September issue). Surround 
with Saratoga or lattice potatoes. 
Spread over the fish maitre d 'hotel 
butter or Bernaise sauce, and serve 
at once. 




Fish Salad in Shell 

pan, add two tablespoonfuls of butter 
and the beaten yolks of three eggs, 
and stir and cook over hot water, 
adding gradually small pieces of but- 
ter, until half a cup in all has been 
used. Finish with a tablespoonful 
of fine-chopped parsley and salt and 
pepper. For a change two table- 
spoonfuls of hot, well-reduced tomato 




dual Breakfast Service 



Bernaise Sauce 

Cook two tablespoonfuls of chopped 
•shallot or one tablespoonful of ordi- 
nary onion in two tablespoonfuls of sauce. 



puree may be stirred in, instead of 
or with the parsley. If at hand, a 
rich glaze, equal in bulk to the yolks 
of the eggs, is a good addition to this 



ISO 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



Maitre d'Hotel Butter 
To one-fourth a cup of butter beaten 
to a cream add a few grains of salt, 



China dishes, shaped hke a fish, are 
very appropriate. Mask a part of 
the mixture, smoothed with a silver 




Oyster Cocktail 

a dash of pepper, half a tablespoonful 
of fine-chopped parsley, and, very 
slowly, a tablespoonful of lemon juice. 

Fish Salad in Shell, etc. 
Let cooked fish (baked or boiled 
is preferable), seasoned with salt and 
pepper and sprinkled with lemon 



Oyster Cocktail Set 

knife, with dressing, and dot this 
with capers. Garnish with tiny let- 
tuce leaves and a figure cut from a 
slice of pickled beet. 

Oyster Cocktails for Two 
Clean and chill ten small oysters. 
Mix with one-fourth a teaspoonful 




Quail ready for Roasting 



juice and a few drops of onion juice, 
stand in a cool place until very cold. 
Then mix with mayonnaise dressing, 
and turn into individual dishes. 



of grated horse radish, two drops of 
tabasco sauce, ten drops of Worcester- 
shire sauce, the juice of one-fourth 
a lemon, and one teaspoonful of 



Seasonable Recipes 



151 



tomato catsup. Serve, with bread 
and butter sandwiches, in cocktail 
or other small glasses, tomatoes scooped 




Duck and Orange Salad 

Out. and chilled, or in cups made of 
small green peppers. Oyster cock- 
tail sets come in cut glass. Three 
pieces constitute a set. See "In 
Reference to Recipes, Illustrations, 
etc." 

Roast Quail 
Draw the quails, and wipe inside 
and out. Sprinkle within lightly with 
salt, and put a fresh grape leaf, wiped 
with a damp cloth, over the breast of 
each bird. Fasten 
the leaves in place 
with thin strips of 
fat bacon or larding 
pork, pinned about 
the birds. Cook in 
a hot oven twelve 
or fifteen minutes. 
Remove the cover- 
ing, and dispose 
the birds on a few 
sprigs of chicory. 
Pass at the same 
time green or wild 
grape jelly. 

Duck-and-Orange Salad 
Dispose a bed of well-blended chic- 
ory leaves, each wiped carefully with 



a cloth (damp, if needed), on a salad- 
dish, and lay fillets of cold roast duck 
down the centre. On each side of 
these arrange slices 
of sour orange. 
Garnish the ends 
of the dish (not 
on the salad) with 
shreds of orange 
peel. For two or 
three oranges and 
a pint of fillets mix 
one -fourth a tea- 
spoonful of salt, a 
dash of pepper, and 
one-fourth a cup of 
oil, and pour this 
over the salad. Dis- 
card the shreds of peel, mix the other 
ingredients, and serve. This dish is 
suitable for the salad at a luncheon 
party, home supper, or a chafing-dish 
supper. 

Cauliflower Tim bale 
To one cup of boiled cauliflower, 
pressed through a sieve, add one-third 
a cup of grated bread crumbs, two 
whole eggs, and the yolk of another, 
beaten until whites and yolks are 




Cauliflower 



well mixed, half a teaspoonful of salt, 
a dash of pepper, two tablespoonfuls 
of melted butter, and half a cup of 
milk. Mix thoroughly, and turn into 



I<2 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



a buttered mould, the bottom of Apple-and-Celery Salad 

which has been lined with white Core and pare three apples, then 

paper. Let cook standing in a pan cut crosswise into thin sHces with a 




Apple-and-Celery Salad 



of hot water, on several folds of paper, 
until firm in the centre. Serve, 
turned from the mould, with drawn 
butter, HoUandaise or tomato sauce. 
Garnish with flowerets of cauliflower, 
reserved for the purpose. This will 
serve eight, and may be prepared from 




Russian Bread 

a cauliflower of medium size. The 
dish is recommended particularly 
for vegetarians who use eggs and 
milk. 



handy slicer. Let each apple lie as 
it is sliced, to insure replacing the 
slices to form the original apple. 
Squeeze the juice of half a lemon over 
them to keep the slices white. Slice 
crisp celery stalks into quarter-inch 
pieces, and dispose on a salad dish. 
Upon the celery 
arrange the sliced 
apples. Fill the 
openings with 
mayonnaise, and 
insert a green 
celery tip in each. 
Pour on about 
half a cup of may- 
onnaise dressing, 
mix the whole to- 
gether, and serve. 

Russian Bread 
Make a sponge 
of one cup of 
scalded -and-cooled 
milk, one cake of 
compressed yeast softened in one- 
fourth a cup of lukewarm water, and 
about two cups of flour. When the 
sponge is light, add half a cup of but- 



Seasonable Recipes 



^53 



ter, three beaten eggs, a teaspoonful of 
salt, two tablespoonfuls of sugar, a cup 
of sultana raisins, and flour to make 
a very stiff dough, 
about eight cups in 
all. Knead nearly 
half an hour, and 
set to rise in a tem- 
perature of about 
70° F. When light, 
divide into two por- 
tions for two loaves, 
then divide each 
portion into fourths, 
thus giving four 
pieces for each loaf. 
Roll the pieces into 
strands of the same 
length, but have them thicker in the 
middle than at the ends. Braid 
the strands, and set to rise in a 
buttered pan. When light, bake an 
hour. The bread will brown very 
quickly, and needs be covered with 
paper during the last half of cook- 
ing. Fifteen minutes before the cook- 



cold water to pour, in half a cup of 
boiling water. Sprinkle with coarse- 
chopped almonds, and repeat the 




Caramel Jelly, with Whipped Cream and Bananas 



application of starch two or three 
times. 

Caramel Jelly 
Cook half a cup of sugar to a cara- 
mel. Add half a cup of boiling water 
(carefully, lest, when the syrup foams, 
the hand be -l^urned), and let stand 




Italian Mousse 



Caramel Ice-cream with Coftee Sr 



ing is completed, remove the paper, 
and brush the top of the loaves with 
a mixture made by boiling a table- 
spoonful of cornstarch, diluted with 



on the stove until the caramel melts. 
Cool the liquid, and in it soften one 
ounce of gelatine. When the liquid 
has been absorbed, pour over the 



154 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



gelatine one cup of hot milk, and 
stir until the gelatine is dissolved. 
Then add one-fourth a cup of sugar 
and a few grains of salt, and strain. 
When cool, add one cup and a half 
of rich cream and a teaspoonful of 
vanilla extract. Stir until thoroughly 
mixed, then turn into a mould. Set 
the mould on ice, and, when cold and 
firm, serve with preserved quinces, 
sliced bananas, or coffee sauce. In 
the illustration the jelly is garnished 
with slices of banana and whipped 



cream, sprinkled with pounded cara- 
mel. 

Coffee Sauce 
Boil one cup of clear black coffee 
and one cup of sugar five minutes. 
Let cool before serving. 

Caramel Ice-cream 
Stir three-fourths a cup of sugar 
over the fire until changed to cara- 
mel. Add half a cup of boiling water, 
and let cook until a smooth syrup 





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Chafing-dish Cabinet 



Seasonable Recipes 



55 



is formed. To this add one pint of 
scalded cream and one-half a cup 
of sugar. When cool, add a pint of 
unscalded cream, and freeze as usual. 
This may be made, also, - with one ' 
quart of milk, one cup of double 
cream, a junket tablet, the caramel 
and sugar. The result in either case 
is a fine-flavored, economical cream. 
It may be elaborated by pouring over 
each service hot or cold coffee sauce. 

Italian Mousse in Tall Glass 
Prepare moulds of strawberry, va- 
nilla, _and pistachio mousse. Freeze 
each separately, and serve in tall 
glasses, with the layers of each uni- 
form in thickness. For the straw- 
berry mousse, fold one cup of straw- 
berry pulp, mixed with half a cup of 
sugar, into one cup of double cream, 
beaten solid. For the vanilla, use 
one pint of cream, flavored with 
half a tablespoonful of vanilla ex- 
tract and sweetened with half a cup 
of sugar (scant measure). For the 
pistachio use a pint of cream, a 
scant half-cup of sugar, a teaspoon- 
ful of orange extract, and about 
one-third a teaspoonful of almond 
extract. Tint with green vegetable 
coloring. 

Rice Griddle Cakes 
Stir half a teaspoonful of salt and 
two cups of milk into two cups of 
hot boiled rice. Let cool, then add 
the yolks of two eggs, well beaten, 
and two cups of flour sifted with 
three level teaspoonfuls of baking- 
powder. Lastly add the whites of two 
eggs, beaten dry. Bake on a hot, 
well-oiled griddle. For rice waffles 
omit half a cup of the milk, and 
add one-fourth a cup of melted 
butter. 



Pork Apple Pie 

Pare and slice six or eight apples 
into a buttered agate pan. Sprinkle 
the apples with a very little salt, and 
add a grating of nutmeg and a cup of 
sugar, or, cinnamon and three-fourths 
a cup of molasses. Lay over the top 
of the apples thin shavings of tender, 
fat salt pork. The pork should be 
cut so thin that it will not hold its 
shape in slices. Cover the pork with 
pie-crust, pushing the edge of the 
crust down between the apple and 
dish. Bake until the apple is tender. 
Serve hot. 

Chow-chow 
Let one pint of pieces of cucum- 
ber an inch and a half in length, a 
scant pint of "button" onions, and 
a large head of cauliflower, separated 
into flowerets, stand about twenty- 
four hours in salted water to cover. 
Use about one-third a cup of salt for 
these ingredients. Drain off the 
brine, heat to the boiling-point, and 
pour over the vegetables. Cover and 
let stand until cold, then drain and 
pack into jars. Have ready the fol- 
lowing pickle, with which fill the jars 
to overflowing. Close the jars at 
once, as in canning. Mix half a pound 
of mustard with a level tablespoonful 
of tumeric (a full ounce may be used, 
if wished), dilute to a thin paste with 
vinegar, and stir into two quarts of 
vinegar. Continue to stir until thor- 
oughly scalded. If a pickle of thicker 
consistency be wished, mix half to 
three-fourths a cup of flour with the 
mustard and tumeric before diluting 
with the vinegar, and let scald ten 
minutes. Then add a cup of sugar 
and half a cup of olive oil, and use as 
above. 



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K«ss^a£ffli<K^is!PR9fiaasQMi!M(up^ mmii(n g, 



Episodes in Simplicity 

By Kate Gannett Wells 



THE two girls were keeping 
house for their father, if 
that could be called their 
doing which was really carried on by 
a "set of servants," even to the ar- 
rangement of flowers. But, as their 
mother was away, it enshrined them 
in a dutiful atmosphere to take turns 
in breakfasting with the old man, 
who, they confidentially averred, was 
getting "doty." 

Poor man! He could not com- 
prehend why it was not as much fun 
for the young men to smoke with him 
after dinner as to go into "secludin- 
ism" with one or other of his daugh- 
ters. He did not understand modem 
methods any more than he did slang. 
"Secludinism" was merely their way 
of sitting out on piazzas with young 
men instead of dancing the two-step 
with them in the public parlor. 

"But the Modem Girl is not made 
as you and mamma were," urged 
Rosamond, the oldest daughter, throw- 
ing her crumpled napkin on the 
breakfast table, annoyed by her par- 
ent's slow, orderly way of putting 
his in a ring. "It is a great mistake 
when older people don't take advice 



from their children and learn how 
to adapt themselves to modem meth- 
ods. You ought not to have ways," 
she continued. "Keeping young is 
just a matter of will. Don't settle 
down in years: one is only as old as 
he feels." 

"I don't object to your being 
young," answered her father, "nor 
to your trying to keep me so. What 
I object to is the Modem Girl's want 
of simplicity. Her complexity is de- 
vious: you never know what you are 
'at,' when you talk with her." 

"What is simplicity, papa?" she 
asked demurely. 

"It is a deal more than 'plain liv- 
ing and high thinking.' It is being 
true to your best self: it is being a 
cordial, Christian democrat, not an 
exclusive, self -humbugging sectarian. 
It is just what you lost, when you 
left the public school and went to 
a private one. It is the social cement, 
which binds up a nation, making 
each member of it free, respectful, 
and brotherly. I'll tell you a story 
I heard at the club last night. Des 
Jardins, you know him, was walking 
down the avenue not long ago, and 



After Breakfast Chat 



157 



he saw one of your girl friends avoid 
another, who, hoping to be noticed, 
was getting ready to bow to her. He 
took in the whole situation at once, 
and turned to the man who was 
with him, saying, 'Fools!' Not long 
after the girl who had contrived to 
escape bowing challenged him for his 
remark, which she had overheard. 
'I said you both were fools,' he re- 
plied, 'for she was foolish to care 
about a bow, and you were foolish 
to ignore her, lest you should lose 
caste by recognizing her.' The story 
goes that she played the pretty peni- 
tent so well that he took both her 
and the other girl to the same supper 
table at Mrs. Moran's ball, and that 
then he went home and put the por- 
trait of one of them into an empty 
photograph-holder which his mother 
had given him 'For the picture of 
the girl you are going to marry.' 

"A man's club is the worst place 
on earth for gossip," exclaimed Rosa- 
mond. "It ought not to have been 
either, for both were scared. Neither 
of them had simplicity as a state of 
mind. Bach wanted to be distin- 
guished, and neither would 'help 
lame dogs over stiles.' It ought to 
have been the one who made amends, 
if either. Your story makes me think 
of another true one. A French mayor 
expected a vivSit from the emperor, 
and, that he might be able to enter- 
tain him, made a big drawing-room 
out of the few small rooms in which 
he and his wife had always lived con- 
tentedly, and went into miserable 
lodgings; but the emperor never 
came. No simplicity in that! Real 
simplicity is the result of long train- 
ing: it is just like Whistler's art. 
Because he knew how to draw, he 
could choose his lines, doing more 
effective work by his selection of a 
few than other artists by their con- 
fused impressionism. It is just the 



same in dress. When a girl impro- 
vises a masterpiece of a simple gown, 
it is because she has first wasted lots 
of time and material in trying to be 
stylish. That's the way it is with 
our flirtations. Girls are not as friv- 
olous as you pretend. We know how 
to do things gracefully; we draw the 
line; we don't mean to be taken in 
and we don't take in others, and we 
don't have offers, only come near 
to them and then scoot away; and 
we use slang to hide our feelings. A 
Modern Girl is a mighty good thing, 
and modem methods are great im- 
provements on classical ones. The 
gods and goddesses were freer than 
ever we are; and the academic flirta- 
tions that came in between the past 
and the present, the 'bundling' and 
corn-husking and mistletoe times, 
were far less decorous than our ways. 
I've been round to house parties and 
summer hotels more than you ever 
went, and, though there is plenty 
of inelegance, — toothpicks hidden in 
ferns, and all that sort of thing, — 
there is no going to extremes. We 
just have a good time, and, if we 
can't get a man, we get a girl and 
have 'healthy attacks of the sillies.' 
We like our old papas just as they 
are, after all." And she rose from 
the table and hugged her delighted 
father. 

But, after she left the room, he 
remembered the day when he had 
seen his grandfather take down 
a comb from the clock-shelf in the 
roomy old kitchen, and run it through 
his hair, putting his arm round his 
wife of half a century, as both rose 
to meet their son and his bride; and 
how she, his fair wife, Rosamond's 
mother, had taken the comb from 
the old man, and, reaching up, had 
held it lightly over her young hus- 
band's head. "Simplicity," he now 
{Concluded on page 162) 



< 
o 

D 

H 

CO 



Seasonable Menus for One Week in 

October 

- " cSomeijofaj, sou \mkz tlje tljings gou're cocfeirtj smell so gooti." 



"Breakfsist 

Ralston Breakfast Food, Cream. 

Salt Codfish in Tomato Sauce. 

Baked Potatoes. 

Rice Waffles, Honey. Cereal Coffee. 

Dinner 

Braised Veal, Brown Sauce. 

Boiled Onions, Buttered. 

Succotash. Potato Balls, Plain Boiled. 

Cole Slaw. Cheese Wafers. 

Squash Pie. Black Coffee. 

Supper 

Eggs Scrambled with Bits of Bacon 

(Chafing-dish). 

Potato Balls in Hot Milk. 

Marble Cake. Cocoa. 



breakfast 
Quaker Oats. Stewed Figs, Cream. 
Omelet with Shredded Green Pepper. 

French Fried Potatoes. 
Breakfast Corn-cake. Cereal Coffee. 

Dinner 

Cream-of-Celery Soup. 

Corned Beef. Boiled Potatoes. 

Cabbage au Gratin. Buttered Beets. 

Tapioca Indian Pudding, Cream. 

Tea. 



Supper 

Hot Baked Sweet Apples. Bread 

Smoked Dried Beef. 

Baking-powder Biscuit. Cookies 

Tea. 



Milk. 



^re2Lkfa.si 

Hot Shredded Wheat Biscuit, Cream. 

Broiled Bacon. Fried Eggs. 

Boston Brown Bread, Toasted. 

Coffee. 

Luncheon 
Stewed Oysters. Pickles. 
Pork Apple Pie. Coffee. 

T>inner 

Cream-of-Onion Soup. 

Cold Braised Veal, Sliced Thin, 

Hot Brown Sauce. Mashed Potatoes. 

Baked Sweet Potatoes. 

Celery-and-Apple Salad. 

Tapioca with Canned Peaches, Cream. 

Tea. 



"Breakfast 

Grape-nuts, Cream. 
Eggs Scrambled with Deviled Ham. 
Baked Potatoes. Stewed Tomatoes. 

Doughnuts. Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Creamed Corned Beef au Gratin. 

Mustard Pickles. Rye-meal Muffins. 

Caramel Jelly, Coffee Sauce. 

Tea. 

"Dinner 

Braised Chicken. Lima Beans in Cream. 

Mayonnaise of Tomatoes. 

Rice Croquettes en Surprise. 

Black Coffee. 



"breakfast 

Gluten Grits. Baked Apples, Cream. 

Broiled Mackerel (Fresh or Salt). 

Potatoes Hashed in Milk. 

Corn-meal Griddle Cakes. 

Cereal Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Veal Souffle, Pickle Sauce. 

Buttered String Beans. 

Baking-powder Biscuit. Grapes. Tea. 

"THnner 

Breaded Veal Cutlets, Tomato Sauce. 

Squash. Steamed Potatoes. 

Shredded Cabbage- and-Green Pepper 

Salad. Apple Pie with Meringue. 

Black Coffee. 



"Breakfast 

Barley Crystals, Cream. 

Pan Fish Sauted. 

Potatoes Cooked in Milk. 

Rice Griddle Cakes. Quince Marmalade. 

Russian Bread. Cereal Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Oysters (Chafing-dish Style). 

Hot Yeast Rolls. Cole Slaw. 

Coffee Jelly, Whipped Cream. 

IXnner 

Boiled Sword Fish, Baked Red Snapper, 

or Canned Salmon Croquettes, 

Pickle or Tomato Sauce. 

Mashed Potatoes. Cauliflow^er Timbale. 

Jellied Apples, Cream. Black Coffee. 



"Breakfast 

Grapes. 

Creamed Celery on Toast 

with Poached Eggs. 

Moulded Cereal, Sliced and 

Fried. 

Cereal Coffee. 



"Dinner (12 o'clock) 

Cannelon of Beef, Tomato Sauce. 
Baked Sweet Potatoes. 

Mashed Turnips. 

Mayonnaise of Cauliflower Timbale. 

Chocolate Bread Pudding, 

Hard Sauce. Coffee. 



Supper 

Succotash with Pork. 

Shortcake " of Waffles and 

Peach Preserves. 

Malta-Ceres, Milk. 

Tea. 



Menus for Occasions 

)tn gou entertain, tio it in an easg, natural faiag, as if it bjas ait e^ergsKag occurrence, not tlje 
ebent of gour life ; but Ua it bell.— IVard McAllister. 

'After Theatre Suppers 
I. II. 

Sardine Eclairs. Deviled Crackers. 

Curried Lobster (Chafing-dish). " Chicken. 

Man-Olas. Malaga Raisins in Jelly. Potted Cheese. Olives. 

Wafers. Fillets of Cold Roast Duck, 

Orange Salad. Grape Sherbet. 

III. 

Welsh Rabbit. Shredded Wheat Biscuit. 

Tomato-and-Shredded Pepper Salad. 

Rye Bread-and-Buti'er Sandwiches. 

Apples Baked with Almonds. 



Butch Supper (C. M. D.) 

{Rotind Table. Centrepiece, very large " Jack Horner pie " in form of a ttilip.) 

Smear Kase with Chives. 

Anise Seed Rye Bread-and-Butter Rolls. 



Sliced Cold Goose or Turkey. 

Sliced Stuffed Sausage or Boiled Ham. 

Fried Oysters. Dill Pickles. 

Brown and Rye Bread. 



Filled Steins. 



Sauer Kraut in Ramekins. 

Swiss and American Cheese. Pretzels. 

Coffee. 



Club 'Teas 
I. II. 

Noisette Sandwiches. Noisette Sandwiches. 

Olive-and-Cream Cheese Sandwiches. (Nut Bread-and-Orange Marmalade.) 

Sponge Cakelets. Macaroons. New Rye Bread-and Butter Sandwiches. 

Hot Coffee and Tea. Iced Tea with Orange Slices or 

Candied Pineapple. 

III. 

White-and-Entire Wheat Bread and 

Butter Sandwiches. 

Hot Tea. Assorted Cakes. 

Chocolate with Whipped Cream. 



Luncheon Party 
Oyster Cocktails in Green Peppers. 



Fried Fillets of Fish, Bernaise Sauce with Tomato Puree. 
Rolls. Cucumbers. 



Quails Roasted in Grape Leaves. 
Green Grape Jelly. Hominy Croquettes. 



Individual Cauliflower Timbales, Cheese Sauce. 
Olives. 



Strawberry Tartlets. Coffee. 



Referring to Illustrations, Recipes, etc. 



ON account of the drouth 
early in the season the qual- 
ity and quantity of fruit 
and vegetables in the eastern section 
of the country is far below the aver- 
age, and prices are high accordingly. 
At present the question of supplying 
a family with a variety of really pal- 
atable food and at a reasonable ex- 
penditure is even more burdensome 
than last year, — a year noted for 
high prices. With fresh eggs at forty 
cents a dozen, and apples at two dollars 
a bushel, in October, the Christmas 
cake will need be plain, with mock 
mince pies substituted for the real 
article. Even corned beef and cab- 
bage, the staples of a workingman, 
have come to be classed among the 
luxuries of the table. Cabbage at 
five cents per pound, when five cents 
a head should be the nominal price, 
precludes the probability of laying 
in a very generous supply of this vege- 
table for winter's use. Though from 
both a nutritive and a money point 
of view, celery will bear no compari- 
son with cabbage at five cents per 
head (the fuel value of celery is 70 
calories and of cabbage 125 , calories 
per pound), still celery may, for one 
season, replace to some extent, cab- 
bage. A bunch of celery steamed 
over the corned beef would not be 
bad; and a dish of celery, braised 
with an onion and 'arrot, belongs 
to high-class cookery. The trim- 
mings with half an onion will also 
provide flavoring for a dish of creamed 
corned beef au gratin, than which 
few "made -over dishes" are more 
satisfactory. A comparison of cost 
is instructive; i.e., a fifteen-cent bunch 
of celery weighs about a pound and 
three-quarters, which makes the cost 



about eight cents a pound, against five 
for the cabbage with its higher fuel 
value. Still, the difference in cost 
is not now, even, so great but that for 
variety the celery might occasionally 
be given a trial. 

With a shortage of apples, canned 
small fruit and berries, bananas 
will receive more attention. As yet 
the average housekeeper knows little 
of the possibilities of this fruit for 
cooking purposes. Though squash, 
pumpkins, and apples fail, pies need 
not be entirely absent from our 
bills of fare. Banana pulp, pressed 
through a vegetable ricer and sea- 
soned as pumpkin, will produce pies 
quite equal to pumpkin, and with a 
pronounced saving of labor. Banana 
dumplings, short-cakes, and pan- 
dowdy are not freaks of the imagina- 
tion, while bananas with - tapioca 
and cornstarch are simple delica- 
cies well known to the culinary 
artist. 

Giving recipes for sword fish, at 
this time, is as noting "blessings as 
they take their flight"; for it is a 
rare occurrence for the deep-sea fish- 
erman to find a sword fish in his 
"catch" as late as the month of 
October. But, when this fish is in 
the market, the provident caterer 
doco well to supply her table often 
with its meaty flesh .^ The season for 
red snapper, found in Southern waters, 
begins in October; and our recipes 
are given more particularly for those 
readers who live in the South, since 
this fish is much prized by them. 
In the markets of the larger cities 
red snapper may be found from 
now on until the ist of April. 



Referring to Illustrations, Recipes, Etc. 



i6i 



As the season grows cooler, a dish 
of fried eggs offers a change from the 
almost imiversal service of eggs cooked 
in the shell. It is possible to fry 
eggs very delicately. Some morn- 
ing, when there is plenty of bacon 
fat of just the right temperature (not 
cold, but not so hot that it spatters 
when an egg is turned into it), break 
the requisite number of eggs, one 
after another, into a saucer, and 
slide each one as broken into the fat. 
Let stand on the range, to reheat the 
fat and set the exterior of the eggs, 
then dip the fat by spoonfuls over 
the surface of the eggs, until they are 
cooked to the consistency desired. 
If there be too little fat in the pan 
to admit of its being taken up easily 
with a spoon, finish the cooking in 
the oven, by setting the pan on the 
upper grate. For omelet with shred- 
ded green pepper, saute the shreds 
of pepper in a little hot butter or 
bacon fat, add the eggs, and finish 
as any omelet. 

The cauliflower timbale is recom- 
mended as a very delicate prepara- 
tion of cauliflower. Any portion left 
over is good, with or without lettuce 
or tomatoes, as a salad. Any variety 
of salad dressing is appropriate. 
Cauliflower souffle calls for nearly the 
same materials, presenting them in 
a slightly different form. The ad- 
dition of cheese to either of these 
recipes provides a hearty dish for 
the vegetarian, who does not draw 
the line on eggs and other animal 
products. ______ 

An occasional indulgence in some 
new article for the table or the house 
adds zest to housekeeping and keeps 
up one's interest, while attending 
to many tedious and irksome duties. 
A glance at one or two of the new 
things shown in the shops, some of 



which are shown in our illustrations, 
may be of interest to those of our 
readers who are distant from large 
centres of trade. 



The individual breakfast service 
comes in pretty but inexpensive china 
ware, or in ware "costly as thy purse 
can buy." A veritable boon is this 
service to the hostess discommoded 
by the presence of a guest at the 
necessarily early family breakfast. 
Rare is the guest or member of a 
family who would not feel flattered 
to be told on retiring that, when 
breakfast was ready, it would be 
served in his room or in the adjoin- 
ing den, or even in the sewing-room 
(carefully aired for the occasion). 
Who would not be glad to escape 
attendance, when the children are 
being started for school and the 
adults to town? Who wishes to 
hear, or have others hear, the ad- 
monitions to Jane or the commis- 
sions to John that must be attended 
to the instant he arrives in town? 
If the individual breakfast service 
will simplify and make feasible the 
service of a guest's breakfast outside 
the family breakfast-room, by all 
means let us have it. 



On page 150 are shown two varie- 
ties of glasses for oyster or clam 
cocktails. The glass with cup and 
small saucer in one piece is also used 
for ices, especially those served with 
a sauce. (See illustration of caramel 
ice-cream with coffee sauce.) In the 
other, the oysters are held in a cup 
shaped something like an egg-cup, 
which stands in a receptacle for 
cracked ice. This in turn stands 
in a glass dish of such size that sand- 
wiches may be placed in the space 
between the two saucer-like dishes. 
In serving, the "set" rests on the 
service plate, this latter plate being 



l62 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



retained after the eating of this course, 
to hold the soup-plate, the next dish in 
the usual order of service. 



Silver-handled grape-shears are an 
artistic and practical accessory to 
the service of the fruit course, espe- 
cially when large bunches of Tokay 
or white grapes are presented. 



A chafing-dish cabinet is a con- 
venience in any home where chafing- 
dish cookery is often indulged in; 
but it will be found of especial delight 
to the bachelor, man or maid, whose 
house furnishings,. in the way of buffet 
and storage closet, are limited. In 
designing the cabinet, the architect 
planned that every available inch of 
space be made useful. The doors 
are admirably adapted to carry out 
this idea, the shelves with which they 
are fitted being perforated with holes 
of suitable sizes to hold the bottles 
of condiments so necessary to a com- 
plete chafing-dish outfit. When the 
doors are closed, all food supplies 
are shut out from sight and from 
floating dust. 

The individual fish-shaped china 
dishes for serving salads or minces 
of fish come in majolica ware, and 
cost about five or six cents each. 



Episodes in Simplicity 

{Concluded from page 157) 
murmured, "in my grandpa and 
simplicity in my girl wife that made 
her see the tenderness in the old 
man's awkwardness; love, not re- 
proof. I guess I'll be grateful for my 
girls just as they are, though they 
cannot understand why I, older than 
they, have not a right to say all I 
think. Children cannot understand 
their parents, until they are grown 
up and are parents themselves. Then 



they will understand that their father's 
reserves, patiences, and silences were 
needed. We old people, however, 
must not forget that youth has its 
rights. I had mine. Now it is for 
me to let my girls have theirs. All 
the same, they never will be equal 
to their mother." 



What a School-house should Be 

Let us have a twentieth -century 
school-house in which it will be pos- 
sible to educate a twentieth- century 
child, — m which a well- trained, re- 
fined man or woman will be willing 
to teach. Why should the newness 
or the difficulty of the problem daunt 
us? What a terrible waste, not only 
of municipal money, but of human 
energy, to keep on building impossi- 
ble houses and then try to remodel 
them. Let us cut loose from tradi- 
tion, and have a school-house in which 
the whole child may thrive, — not only 
his mind, but his body. Not only 
give him clean air and washing facil- 
ities, but cheerful, uplifting surround- 
ings and good food; for not the least 
of modern discoveries is that of the 
great influence of food on the bodily 
resistance to disease and on mental 
development. Therefore, lunch-rooms 
with all the facilities for food, 
both hot and cold, must be included 
in the twentieth-century school-house. 
I believe the day is not far off when 
the town schools with two sessions 
will provide a noon lunch instead of 
sending the small children through 
wet, muddy streets to a home from 
which the mother may be absent, to 
pick up as they may such food as they 
find. Even if the food is right, may 
it not be possible to utilize the noon 
hour to better advantage in teach- 
ing gardening, housekeeping, or in 
games? — Mrs. Ellen H. Richards, in 
the Outlook. 



For Cooking Game 

By Mrs. E. M. Lucas 



T T is to be deplored that game laws 
I are so different in various States. 
K When we eat quail, another State 
has something else, and vice versa. 
Still, ^game is fairly plentiful in all 
localities during the winter months; 
and, where it is not native, it has been 
colonized. It was Savarin who said, 
after giving directions for roasting 
a pheasant, "Don't be uneasy about 
your dinner, for a pheasant served 
in this way is fit for beings better 
than men." Yet the pheasant is 
an overrated bird. Like the quail, 
he is a good game-bird, hardy and 
swift of flight; but both are dry as 
their native hillsides, and greatly 
dependent on their surroundings in 
the way of sauces and dressing. 

Here is Savarin 's famous recipe: 
"If this bird is eaten soon after it is 
killed, it has no peculiarity of flavor. 
A pullet would be more relished, and 
a quail would surpass it in flavor. 
Kept, however, a proper length of 
time, then it becomes a highly flavored 
dish, occupying, so to speak, the mid- 
dle distance between chicken and 
venison. It is difficult to define any 
exact time to 'hang' a pheasant; but 
any one possessed of the instincts of 
gastronomical science can at once 
detect the right moment when a 
pheasant should be taken down, in 
the same way as a good cook knows 
when a bird should be removed from 
the spit or have a turn or two more. 
When the pheasant is in good condi- 
tion to be cooked, it should be plucked, 
but not before. The bird should be 
drawn and wiped carefully inside 
and out. Cut off the head, leaving 
sufficient skin on the neck to skewer 
back, bring the legs close to the breast, 



and pass a skewer through their thick- 
est part and through the pinions. 
The bird should be stuffed in the fol- 
lowing manner: Clean and draw two 
snipe, cut off the flesh, mince it fine 
with some salt pork, truffles, salt, and 
pepper. Stuff the bird with this. 
Cut a slice of bread, larger consider- 
ably than the bird, and cover it with 
the chopped liver and hearts of the 
snipe, some truffles, salt, and pepper. 
A little fresh butter added to these 
will do no harm. Put the bread into 
a dripping-pan, placed where it will 
receive the drippings from the bird. 
Roast the bird before a clear fire, 
keep it well basted with butter, and 
cook thirty minutes. When done, 
dust with flour, pour over a tablespoon- 
ful of melted butter, so it will froth 
nicely. When the bird is roasted, 
place it on the bread, and surround 
with Florida oranges." 

Savarin, of course, used the spit. 
To roast the bird in the oven, here is 
a good recipe: — 

Chop fine half a pound of sweet- 
breads, parboiled. Add two table- 
spoonfuls of lean ham, also chopped, 
six truffles, a clove of garlic, and a 
spray of parsley. When all are finel)^ 
minced, mix with a teaspoonful of 
salt, half a teaspoonful of pepper, 
the grated rind and juice of one lemon. 
This is sufficient for two birds. Stuff' 
and secure with skewers. I^ard the 
breast with wafer-like strips of sweet, 
fat pork or bacon. Roast in a hot 
oven half or three-quarters of an hour, 
according to size. Have some slices 
of hot buttered toast, spread with 
the livers and hearts finely minced, 
dust with cayenne and salt, and place 
on the upper grate of the oven for 



164 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



ten minutes. Dish the birds on the 
toast, pour over them the gravy in 
the pan, squeeze over the juice of a 
sour orange, and serve with bread 
sauce. Pass with them a green salad, 
dressed with French dressing. 

For the salad there are no better 
greens than the wild chicory, dande- 
lion, cress, or horseradish leaves. 
With a little forethought, these salad 
plants can be had all winter until 
late spring. Cress, and mustard, too, 
can be grown very easily from seeds. 
A small box of rich loam in a sun-lit 
kitchen shelf, sown to seeds, will give 
enough piquant greens for salads and 
to garnish many a dish. 

The yellow flowers of the dandelion 
line the roadsides all summer Dig 
a dozen roots, bury them, standing 
upright in moist sand, and place in 
a warm cellar, and the roots will 
throw up an amazing quantity of 
green leaves. If darkness prevails 
during their growth, the leaves will 
be white and tender. Warmth they 
must have, also, or the leaves will be 
tough. A root of horseradish grown 
in a dark, warm place will have leaves 
of large size, nicely blanched, and of 
a sweetish pungency. 

The ragged blue flowers of the chic- 
ory flank the dusty roadsides in late 
fall. One buys this green in the 
market under the name of barbe de 
capucin, an improved variety, no 
doubt; but the taste is the same. 
A few roots grown in damp earth 
will give tender green leaves that go 
well with all manner of game. 

When about to roast a duck, see to 
the fire first. A hot oven is the first 
essential. The old axiom, "Dress 
your duck, and allow a slow cook to 
walk through a hot kitchen with it," 
gives the idea it is intended to do, 
that a duck well done is a duck spoiled. 
If the oven is very hot, twenty five 
minutes will roast it an even brown; 



but, if your palate dictates, another 
ten minutes' roasting will do no 
harm. 

The duck requires no dressing. A 
slice of lemon and a spray of parsley 
may be put into the body before it 
is placed in the oven. Some cooks 
rub the duck inside and out with a 
clove of cut garlic. Others place a 
spoonful of uncooked cranberries in 
the body of the bird. The berries 
will burst, and give a delicious flavor 
to the meat. 

Dust the duck with a teaspoonful 
of salt and half a teaspoonful of 
pepper, before placing it in the oven. 
Baste twice with a little stock or but- 
ter and hot water, while it is cooking. 
With a canvas-back serve a celery 
salad, or celery mixed with sliced 
oranges and dressed with a French 
dressing. 

Prairie chickens make good eating. 
If young and tender, roast them like 
ducks, but, if old, braise them. Pluck 
and draw, and lard with thin strips 
of fat bacon. Brown them nicely 
in a pan, and dredge with two table- 
spoonfuls of flour. Add to every 
three birds a pint of hot water, a small 
onion, chopped fine, a carrot, cut 
small, two outer stalks of celersT-, a 
teaspoonful of salt, and a small bit of 
red-pepper pod. Cover closely, and 
let simmer one hour and a half to two 
hours. Remove the birds onto a hot 
dish, strain the gravy, add a gill of 
Madeira and six pitted olives, give 
one boil, and serve. Pass a tart jelly 
and hominy or rice croquettes with 
the birds. 

For salmi of game use the breast and 
other nice pieces of roasted birds, cut 
in neat slices. Place the bones and 
other trinmiings in a sauce-pan with 
sufficient water to cover. To a pint 
of water add half a clove of garlic, 
half a bay leaf, a spray of parsley, a 
teaspoonful of celery salt, and a dash 



The Care of Milk 



165 



of cayenne. Let simmer half an Ifour, 
strain, add a few nmshrooms or a 
chopped olive, and a tablespoonful of 
butter rubbed with a tablespoonful of 
flour. When hot, lay in the pieces 
of game, and, as soon as the sauce 
comes to a boil, serve at once. 

When quail are of doubtful age 
and liable to be tough, cook them 



in this manner: Clean, and brown 
nicely in butter. Add a little chopped 
parsley, and salt and pepper. When 
nicely browned, place in a sauce-pan 
with a close lid, and add a half-pint 
of white wine. This is sufficient for 
four quail. Cover very closely, and 
let steam for twenty minutes, then 
serve. 



The Care of Milk 

By Helen Louise Johnson 



LET us grant that, under suffi- 
cient pressure, the Board of 
f Health has taken measures to 
secure a clean and wholesome supply 
of milk or that investigation on your 
part has established the fact that your 
milkman conducts his dairy on sani- 
tary principles, still your duties do 
not end here. The proper care of 
milk after it has been delivered is a 
matter of as much importance as its 
source. 

In defence of the milkman it must 
be stated that he is often blamed for 
things for which he is not in the least 
responsible. Milk is primarily a pure 
product, but a perishable one, and 
there are natural changes sure to occur 
as time elapses or the opportunity is 
presented. Such changes are for the 
most part directly due to the presence 
of invisible fungus-like growths known 
as bacteria. 

The story of the bacteria reads like 
the old German fairy tale of our youth, 
where the good housewife arises in the 
morning to find her house swept and 
garnished, the water carried and wood 
cut, while in the house of the lazy 
mother, at the foot of the hill, lurks 
the evil gnome ready to do his wicked 
work when the appointed time arrives. 



Bacteria are present everywhere, — in 
the air we breathe, the water we drink, 
and the food we eat ; for their presence 
is essential to the health and well-being 
of every living being. They form a 
great group of lowly plants, ordinarily 
invisible to the naked eye, whose life 
and structure are of the most primi- 
tive simplicity. Generally speaking, 
warmth, moisture, in some cases air 
and organic matter, upon which to 
feed, are essential to their life. In 
general, their particular office in the 
economy of nature is the breaking 
down and tearing apart of useless, 
w^orn-out combinations of matter, that 
the elements composing these may be 
set free and used again. The decaying 
vegetation and waste matters of many 
kinds, lying upon or beneath the 
earth's surface, are changed by these 
bacteria to such forms of food as are 
required by their neighbors, who rep- 
resent a higher scale of being. It is 
not an uncommon error to find bacteria 
regarded as inimical to life, but actual 
knowledge of the facts should dissi- 
pate this idea. In the case of milk 
the consumer should know of what 
use certain forms of bacteria are, and 
of w^hat harm other forms may be. 
Pure milk, from the consumer's 



i66 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



standpoint, is the properly handled 
product of healthy, well-fed cows, the 
legal standard being the presence of 
a certain amount of fat and other 
solids. Cream should rise naturally, 
there should be no sediment in 
the bottom of the jar or pan, 
and, when poured from a tumbler, 
good milk clings to the glass a little. 
Milk having any amount of sediment 
is suspicious, for dirty milk may be 
regarded as dangerous as well as un- 
pleasant. 

The sources of dirt are more apt to 
be in the stable than in the consumer's 
home, but proper care must be ob- 
served, to keep the milk from dust and 
dirt here also. In some places milk 
is left, in the early morning, upon the 
doorstep, in open dishes, collecting 
dust and exposed at times to the heat 
and sun. Or the milkman brings 
it into the kitchen and pours it into 
clean and inviting porcelain dishes. 
Breakfast is in process of preparation 
or some work is going on, which it is 
inconvenient to leave for the time 
being, so the maid, cook, or housewife 
lets it stand until a more convenient 
time has arrived for putting it in a 
cool place. Both of these are repre- 
hensible practices. It hardly seems 
possible that there is need of calling 
attention to the harm of the first cited 
custom, although in effect it is not 
much worse than the exposure of raw 
meats, vegetables, and fruit in the 
ordinary shops. The leaving of milk 
in open receptacles in the kitchen, or 
even in jars, should be censured, first 
on account of dust, dirt, and odors, 
and, secondly, because of the effect it 
has in hastening the souring of the 
milk. 

There are a few very definite rules 
that may be stated for the care of 
milk in the house, and the first of 
these has to do with its temperature. 
The change to which milk is most 



liable is souring, and standing in the 
warm air of the kitchen or in the sun 
hastens this process. As soon as 
possible after delivery, milk should 
be put in a temperature not above 
fifty degrees Fahrenheit; and, when 
the temperature of the cellar or re- 
frigerator is above fifty, which is often 
the case in summer, the ordinary dairy 
milk cannot be expected to keep sweet 
for any length of time. 

Milk is peculiarly sensitive to odors 
and flavors, and, if kept in an open 
dish in a refrigerator or with meats, 
vegetables, and various other things, 
will absorb odors from them. Milk, 
cream, and butter should be kept in 
a separate compartment, and put 
away in absolutely clean porcelain or 
glass receptacles. Wooden dishes are 
out of the question, because of the 
porous nature of their composition, 
and tin dishes are liable to have 
cracks or seams in them, where par- 
ticles of milk can lodge and not be 
easily washed out. The two preven- 
tives of the souring of milk are scrupu- 
lous cleanliness of all vessels in which 
milk is handled, and to keep the milk 
at a proper temperature. The sour- 
ing of milk is due to the presence of 
certain bacteria, and we have found 
that warmth is one of the conditions 
essential to their growth. Certain 
degrees of heat, however, kill these 
bacteria, the majority of the growing 
forms in milk being destroyed at 165 
degrees Fahrenheit, which is several 
degrees below the boiling-point (213) 
of this liquid. But, in order to kill 
these minute plants, it is not sufficient 
simply to heat the milk to a certain 
degree: it is necessary to keep it at 
that point for a period of time, and 
it must be done under the influence 
of moist, not dry heat. 

The processes in common use for the 
protection of milk are known as steril- 
ization and pasteurization. The dif- 



The Care of Milk 



167 



ference in these terms, which are often 
misused, is mainly in the degree of heat 
employed. Sterilization indicates a 
complete and final destruction of all 
bacteria present. Therefore, it means 
the use of a degree of heat at or above 
the boiling-point. The living germs 
are not alone destroyed, but the chem- 
ical composition of the milk is altered, 
and a boiled flavor is produced. There 
are occasional circumstances where it 
is necessary to employ extreme meas- 
ures, but they are rare, and perfectly 
safe milk may be secured without such 
radical procedure. Explanation of the 
difference between these two terms 
is given here, because those to whom 
the care of children or invalids is in- 
trusted should not only know the dif- 
ference in method, but in the effect 
upon the product. Pasteurization, in 
which the milk is raised to a degree of 
heat between 167 degrees and 185 de- 
grees and kept there for a period of 
time, kills any harmful bacteria that 
may be present in the milk without 
particularly changing it in other ways. 

In the feeding of infants it is some- 
times hard to choose between the dis- 
orders, which may arise from the use 
of raw milk, and the lack of perfect 
assimilation, which is apt to occur in 
the use of the pasteurized article. 
Either sterilizing or pasteurizing can- 
not make bad milk good, nor dirty 
milk clean, and milk on the verge of 
souring, or tainted in any way, should 
not be given to children. 

The Department of Agriculture 
has issued circulars giving full di- 
rections for pasteurizing milk in 
small quantities, the process being 
simple and the apparatus an inexpen- 
sive one. Briefly, the directions are 
as follows : Fill the bottles nearly full 
of milk and plug with dry, absorbent 
or other clean cotton. Place in an 
upright position in a vessel having a 
false bottom and containing enough 



water to rise above the milk in the 
bottles (a covered tin pail will answer 
for the sterilizer, an inverted, perfo- 
rated pie-plate w411 make the false bot- 
tom on which the bottles rest). Cover 
the pail and heat the water to 155 or 
165 degrees in winter, 180 degrees in 
summer, and keep it at that temper- 
ature thirty minutes. Remove the 
milk bottles and cool as quickly as 
possible. This may be done by sur- 
rounding them with ice, ice and salt, 
or, if ice is an impossibility, by placing 
in as cold water as is available. Then 
keep in a cold place. Keep the cotton 
plugs dry and do not remove them, 
until the milk is to be used. When 
it is possible to do so, a hole should be 
punched in the cover of the pail, a 
cork inserted, and a chemical ther- 
mometer put through the cork, that 
the temperature of the water may be 
watched without removing the cover. 
When this is impossible, use an ordinary 
dairy thermometer, to test the water 
from time to time. Failing this ap- 
paratus, even a farina boiler may be 
used, for under some circumstances a 
clean utensil of this kind is better than 
nothing. Ordinary water boils at 212 
degrees, and milk at 213 degrees, so it 
is possible tg avoid the actual boiling 
of the milk, yet it is virtually sterilized, 
but is not as wholesome as that heated 
not above 1 80 degrees. The milk may 
be put in a farina boiler, raised to the 
temperature of 212 degrees, and kept 
there for at least ten minutes. Then 
cool in a covered receptacle as quickly 
as possible. This method has its 
drawbacks, even its dangers, but dis- 
trict nurses, by no means, always have 
even the most simple means of doing 
necessary things, and must do their 
best with anything that can be used 
for the purpose. Milk treated in this 
way is less digestible than raw milk, 
but far less dangerous as the carrier 
of infection. 





mxies 



.«ajl- 



txswiers. 



THIS department is for the benefit and free use of our subscribers. Questions relating to 
menus and recipes, and those pertaining to culinary science and domestic economics in gen- 
eral, will be cheerfully answered by the editor. Communications for this department must reach 
us before the first of the month preceding that in which the answers are expected to appear. 
In letters requesting answer by mail, please enclose postage stamp; for menus, $i. Address 
queries to Janet M. HHl, Editor Boston Cooking-School Magazine, 372 Boylston Street, Boston, 
Mass. 



Que;ry 778. — Mrs. H. O. B., Pomona, Kan. : 
*' Recipe for Graham gems." 

Graham Gems 
Sift together one cup, each, of white 
and Graham flour, half a teaspoonful 
of salt, and two tablespoonfuls of 
sugar. Add one cup, each, of milk 
and water to the well-beaten yolks 
of two eggs, and stir into the dry 
ingredients. Add the whites of two 
eggs, beaten dry, and bake in a very 
^ot gem-pan, well buttered, about 
half an hour. 

Graham Muffins 
Sift together one cup, each, of Gra- 
ham and white flour, half a teaspoon- 
ful of salt, and four level teaspoonfuls 
of baking-powder. Beat an ^%g. Add 
about one cup and a fourth of milk, 
and stir into the dry ingredients with 
three tablespoonfuls of melted butter. 



Bake in a hot gem-pan about twenty- 
five minutes. 

Graham Muffins No. 2 
Cream one-third a cup of butter 
and one-fourth a cup of sugar. Beat 
one ^ggy mix with three-fourths a cup 
of milk, and add to the butter and 
sugar, alternately, with two cups of 
sifted flour, sifted again with one- 
fourth a teaspoonful of salt and four 
level teaspoonfuls of baking-powder. 
Bake in a hot roll-pan about twenty- 
five minutes. 



QuE)RY 779.— T. H. D.: "Recipe for a 
rich raised cake with raisins and currants." 

Raised Cake 

To two cups of yeast bread dough, 

ready for shaping into loaves, add 

half a cup of butter, two cups of sugar, 

two beaten eggs, one-fourth a teaspoon- 



Queries and Answers 



169 



ful of cloves, one-half a teaspoonful, 
each, of cinnamon, mace, nutmeg, 
and soda, one cup of seeded raisins, 
half a cup of currants, and one-fourth 
a cup of sliced citron. Beat with 
the hand until thoroughly mixed 
and very smooth. Turn into one or 
two tube cake-pans, and let stand until 
nearly doubled in bulk. Bake in an 
oven at a temperature a little lower 
than for bread. Cover with a boiled 
icing, — one made of maple sugar, 
in part, is particularly good. 

Election Cake (Seven Large 
Loaves) 
Weigh out four pounds of flour. 
Make a sponge of one quart of scalded 
milk, two cakes of compressed yeast, 
softened in one cup of water, and 
flour. When light, add two and one- 
•half pounds of butter, creamed with 
two and one-half pounds of sugar, 
seven beaten eggs, one nutmeg and 
a half, grated, half a teaspoonful of 
cinnamon, and sultana raisins and 
currants as desired, mixed with the 
rest of the four pounds of flour. Beat 
all together until smoothly mixed, 
and turn into baking-pans. When 
the mixture has nearly doubled in 
bulk, bake an hour or an hour and a 
quarter. Let cool somewhat before 
turning from the tins. Finish with 
an icing. 



Query 780. — Mrs. J. A. J., Neenah, Wis.: 
"Kindly explain the difference between a 
gravy and a sauce. " 

Gravy and Sauce 
The word "gravy" is correctly 
used when it is applied to the natural 
juices of flesh, such as flow from the 
roast or grill when it is cut. Sauce 
is a "made" product, and one of the 
things included in its composition 
may be "gravy," usually in the form 
of stock. 



Query 781. — F. C, Minneapolis, Minn.: 
"Would like to put up melon mangoes, but 
hesitate when I think how much syrup it 
would take to cover even one melon." 

Syrup for Melon Mangoes 
In making pickles of whole melons, 
just as in making them of melons in 
pieces, prepare the syrup by weight. 
For seven pounds of material, no 
matter what the shape, use the given 
formula for the syrup. Choose for 
this pickle the smallest melons ob- 
tainable, and, for storing, take a 
stone jar in which three, four, or five 
melons will rest on the bottom with- 
out leaving much open space. Then, 
to cover these, no more syrup will be 
required than in case of pickles in 
pieces. 

Query 782. — Mrs. C. G. C, Saunders- 
town, R.I.: "Please give full directions for 
making macaroons and 6clairs." 

Macaroons 
Work together, on a marble slab, 
moulding-board, or platter, half a 
pound of almond paste and three- 
eighths a pound of powdered sugar. 
Gradually work in the unbeaten whites 
of three eggs, and continue working 
until the mixture is perfectly smooth. 
With a pastry bag and small tube 
shape in small rounds on a tin baking- 
sheet covered with buttered paper. 
Bake fifteen or twenty minutes in 
a slow oven. The rounds should be 
at least half an inch apart, as they 
will spread a little in baking. The 
mixture is quite easily dropped and 
shaped with a teaspoon. If the mac- 
aroons do not separate readily from 
the paper, wet the underside of the 
paper on which they were cooked 
with cold water, and they can be easily 
taken off. 

Eclairs 
Set a sauce-pan, containing half 
a cup of butter and a cup of boiling 



yo 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



water, over the fire. When the mixt- 
ure boils, sift in one cup of flour, 
and beat vigorously. When the 
mixture cleaves from the sides of the 
pan, turn it into a bowl, and beat in 
three eggs, one at a time and very 
thoroughly. Put the mixture into 
a pastry bag with three-fourth inch 
tube attached, and press the mixture 
onto a buttered baking-sheet, in strips 
about three and a half inches long 
and an inch wide. Bake about twenty- 
five minutes. When baked, the cakes 
will feel light, taken up in the hand. 
When cold, split open on one side, 
and fill with English cream, or with 
whipped cream, sweetened and flav- 
ored before whipping. Spread the 
flat side of each eclair with choco- 
late, coffee, or vanilla frosting. To 
make the frosting, stir sifted con- 
fectioner's sugar with boiling water 
or a hot sugar syrup to a paste, and 
flavor with melted chocolate and 
vanilla or with vanilla alone, or use 
clear black coffee extract as the 
liquid. 

English Cream 
Pass through a sieve half a cup, 
each, of sugar- and flour and one- 
fourth a teaspoonful of salt. Dilute 
with hot milk, from a pint scalded 
over hot water. Return to the fire, 
and stir and cook until the mixture 
thickens. Then cook, stirring occa- 
sionally, for fifteen minutes. Beat 
two whole eggs or the yolks of four, 
add one-fourth a cup of sugar, and 
stir into the hot mixture. Stir until 
the egg looks cooked, then let cool, 
and flavor with vanilla, lemon, orange, 
or coffee. 



QuURY 783.— F. T. M., New York City: 
"A year ago I had a long and severe 
attack of inflammatory muscular rheu- 
matism, but seem to have entirely recov- 
ered from the disease. Would be glad of 
suggestions in regard to diet, which, if fol- 



lowed, would tend to avoid a recurrence 
of the trouble." 

Diet in Rheumatism 

Rheumatism is thought to mani- 
fest itself in an acute form, when the 
blood has lost its alkalinity. Such 
a condition does not come about sud- 
denly: the causes which lead up to 
it must be of long duration. The 
principal of these causes are the con- 
tinued ingestion of food or drink that 
generates acids, and the inability to 
eliminate these waste products prop- 
erly. This latter cause is sometimes 
due to exposure to cold or dampness, 
either alone or in conjunction with 
some defect in the organs of diges- 
tion and excretion. Rheumatism 
would not exist, if certain forms of 
waste matter were completely oxi- 
dized and eliminated. Probably this 
waste would not be present in such 
quantity, if at all, if the food from which 
it is derived were eliminated from 
the dietary. The foods that supply 
this waste, chiefly, are sweets, espe- 
cially confectionery, pastry in all 
forms, alcohol, and meats. Fish, 
eggs, and fowl are considered much 
less objectionable — they contain less 
waste products than do beef and mut- 
ton — than other forms of proteid. 
The bulk of food for the rheumatic 
should be farinaceous, with fresh 
green vegetables and fruit. Milk, 
clam broth, and cream soups, so 
called, are also wholesome. Water, 
preferably distilled, and in generous 
quantity, is of the greatest assistance 
in washing the waste products from 
the system. Lemon juice is consid- 
ered highly beneficial. Some phy- 
sicians claim that the benefit arising 
from the use of this acid lies in its 
germicidal power: if this be the case, 
pineapple juice would probably be 
even better. While all forms of 
saccharine food, with steaks and roasts 



Queries and Answers 



171 



of beef, should be discarded by the 
sufferer from rheumatism, an occa- 
sional indulgence in some of the 
tabooed articles might be tolerated. 
Each must decide for hiniself how 
near the precipice he can afford to 
drive. 

Query 784. — E. W. P., Brookline, Mass.: 
"We have very nice cream, but are not suc- 
cessful in whipping it. Kindly give a good 
method of whipping cream." 

Whipping Cream 
Cream taken from milk that has 
stood not more than twelve hours 
is usually too thin for beating with a 
Dover egg-beater. If chilled thor- 
oughly, it may be frothed with a 
whip churn, — a tin cylinder in which 
a dasher is worked up and down. 
The froth which rises should be 
skimmed off, and drained on a sieve. 
After draining, set the froth aside 
in a cool place or on ice, to become 
chilled and stiffened. The cream 
that drains through may be whipped 
a second time. If such cream is to 
be sweetened for a garnish or sauce, 
the sugar must be added before the 
cream is whipped. In hot weather 



weather the ice will not be needed. 
To beat double, or heavy cream — 
cream taken from milk that has stood 
twenty-four hours — beat with a Dover 
egg-beater, until the cream is solid 
to the bottom of the bowl. Such 
cream may be sweetened and flav- 
ored after beating. 



Query 785. — A. H., Boston, Mass.: "Rec- 
ipes for chicken and sweetbread mousse, 
hot and cold; Beauregard eggs; marshmal- 
low frosting; macaroni timbales; salmon 
timbales; and Russian buns. In the illus- 
tration of deviled crackers and cheese on 
page 84 of the August- September magazine, 
what cheese is used, and in what form is it? 
In serving stuffed artichoke bottoms, are all 
the sepals removed and served at another 
time?" 

Chicken-and-Sweetbread Mousse 
(Cold) 
Scald one cup of cream or well- 




Beating and Frothing of Cream 

let the bowl holding the chilled reduced chicken stock (or use half 
cream stand in a dish of ice and water a cup of each). Beat the yolks of 
while the work is going on. In cold three eggs slightly, Add one-fourth 



172 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



a teaspoonful, each, of common salt 
and celery salt and a dash of paprika, 
and cook in the hot Hquid, stirring 
constantly until the mixture coats 
the spoon. Remove from the fire, 
and add one-fourth a two-ounce pack- 
age of gelatine softened in one-fourth 
a cup of chicken liquor or water. 
Strain over half a cup (four ounces) 
of cooked chicken (white meat) 
chopped, pounded in a mortar, and 
passed through a sieve. Stir over 
ice water, until the mixture is perfectly 
smooth and begins to set. Then fold 
into it one cup of whipped cream or 
one cup of cream whipped. If the 
cream be measured after whipping, 
the mousse will be firmer than in 
case the cream be measured before 
whipping. In either case the mixture 
is firm enough to hold its shape. To 
make a sweetbread mousse, use the 
recipe, substituting cooked sweet- 
breads for the cooked chicken. A 
combination of chicken and sweet- 
breads may also be used. Serve with 
cress, lettuce, tomato, celery, nut, 
asparagus, pea, cucumber, or mush- 
room salad. 

Chicken-and-Sweetbread Mousse 

(Hot) 
Scrape the pulp from the fibres of 
rather more than a pound of raw 
chicken (white meat) or sweetbread, 
or part of both. When finished, 
there should be one pint of pulp. 
Add the uncooked white of one egg, 
and poimd in a mortar. Add one 
cup of bechamel sauce, and pass 
through a sieve. Season with salt, 
red peppt^r, and mace, — half a tea- 
spoonful of salt will be needed. Have 
ready one cup of cream whipped to a 
perfect froth. If the cream be thin 
so that all of it does not whip, more 
cream must be taken. A quantity 
of drained, whipped cream, equal in 
volume to what a full cup will yield 



when all of it is whipped, is the quan- 
tity required. Beat the whipped 
cream into the chicken mixture, and 
cook in buttered mousse moulds gar- 
nished with truffles. Let the* moulds 
stand in timbale moulds during the 
cooking. Serve hot, turned from the 
moulds, with bechamel or cream 
sauce, to which chopped truffles have 
been added. 

Beauregard Eggs 
Prepare a cup of white or cream 
sauce of two level tablespoonfuls, 
each, of butter and flour, one-fourth 
a teaspoonful of salt, and a cup of 
milk or cream. Into the sauce stir 
the chopped whites of four "hard- 
boiled" eggs. Toast and arrange on 
a serving-dish bits of bread cut .to 
simulate the petals of a daisy, having 
the petals about three inches in length. 
Spread the sauce on the buttered toast, 
and press the yolks, seasoned with 
salt and pepper, in the centre, to form 
the centre of the daisy. Dispose bits 
of parsley between the petals. If 
desired, dip the. edge of the bits of 
bread in boiling, salted water before 
buttering. 

Caramel Marshmallow Frosting 
Boil one cup and a half of brown 
sugar, half a cup of cream, and one 
teaspoonful of butter forty minutes. 
Add half a pound of melted marsh- 
mallows, and beat until thick enough 
to spread. 

Marshmallow Frosting 
Boil one cup and a third of granu- 
lated sugar and half a cup of boiling; 
water, until the resulting syrup will 
spin a thread. Pour in a fine stream 
onto the whites of two eggs, beaten 
until foamy. Then add hah a pound 
of marshmallows, cut in small pieces 
and melted with two tablespoonfuls 
of boiling water (set over hot water 



Queries and Answers 



173 



to melt). Add half a teaspoonful 
of vanilla extract, and beat until cold. 

Macaroni Timbales 
Have ready a sauce-pan of boiling, 
salted water. Into this put the ends 
of the sticks in a quarter of a package 
of spaghetti or tube macaroni. As 
the paste softens, let the pieces down 
into the water, coiling them around 
in the sauce-pan : let cook until tender. 
Then drain, rinse in cold water, 
and dispose at full length on a cloth. 
Butter the timbale moulds thoroughly. 
Begin at the centre of the bottom, 
and coil a piece of spaghetti or mac- 
aroni round and round, add force- 
meat as the paste is put in place to 
keep it there. When the mould is 
filled, tap it gently on the table, that 
the forcemeat may settle down into 
any open spaces that may not be 
filled. Level the mixture on the top, 
and poach on folds of paper sur- 
rounded with hot water. When the 
centres are firm, turn from the moulds. 



and serve with bechamel, tomato, or 
cream sauce. 

Cream Forcemeat for Macaroni 
Timbale 

Scrape the flesh from the fibre of 
rather more than half a pound of 
white chicken meat. Pound this 
smooth in a mortar, adding, little by 
little, the white of an egg, to facilitate 
the process. Sift the pulp, return 
to the mortar — there should be one 
cup of pulp — with half a cup of butter 
and the yolks or whites (not both) 
of five eggs. Add also salt, pepper, 
and a few grains of nutmeg or mace. 
Pound thoroughly, and pass a second 
time through the sieve. Let the mixt- 
ure become thoroughly chilled on ice, 
then beat thoroughly, and add, slowly, 
one pint of whipped cream or one- 
third a pint of double cream beaten 
solid. Poach a little of the mixture 
in a sauce-pan of water, "just off the 
boil." If the mixture be too firm, 
add more cream; if not sufQciently 




Roman Pudding 



174 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



consistent, add a little more egg 
when it is ready for use. Dark meat 
may be substituted for the white 
indicated. Turkey, game, veal, or 
firm fish (salmon, halibut, etc.), may 
also be used. 

Macaroni Timbale (Roman 
Pudding) 
Line a buttered mould with boiled 
macaroni. The large fluted macaroni, 
cut in rings and strips, gives an orna- 
mental mould. Stir one-fourth a cup 
of bread crumbs in a cup of hot milk. 
Add two tablespoonfuls of butter, a 
cup ■ of cold chicken, chopped fine, 
two tablespoonfuls of chopped ham, 
and one tablespoonful of fine-chopped 
green pepper, salt, and onion juice 
to taste. Add also two well-beaten 
eggs, and turn into the lined mould. 
Bake on folds of paper, in a pan of 
hot water, until firm in the centre. 
Serve with tomato or brown sauce, 
flavored with a few gratings of horse- 
radish and a teaspoonful of lemon 
juice. Serve a few bits of macaroni 
in the sauce. If this timbale be baked 
in individual moulds, a cup and a half 
of milk, instead of the cup given, may 
be used. 

Kind of Cheese used in Illustra- 
tion, page 84 

In the illustration referred to, the 
pieces of cheese were taken from an 
Edam cheese with a cheese scoop. 
Any other cheese, that may be cut 
-or separated into small pieces, may be 
served in a compartment of an Ital- 
ian hors d'rFuvre dish. 

Removal of Sepals in Stuffed 
Artichoke Hearts 

Artichoke sepals are retained until 
after the vegetable is boiled, but are 
removed before the bottoms are stuffed 
and returned to the oven. They are 
not easily handled, otherwise. A few 



sepals make a good garnish for the 
cooked dish. They should be reheated 
in boiling water. 



Query 786. — Miss E. S., Cincinnati, 
Ohio: "Recipe for maple mousse. In using 
my own recipe, the syrup in freezing sepa- 
rates from the cream." 

Maple Mousse 
Mix one pint of double cream and 
one cup of maple syrup. Beat with 
a Dover egg-beater until the mixture 
is thick to the bottom of the bowl. 
Turn into a chilled mould, filling the 
mould to overflow. Cover with a 
sheet of wrapping paper, and press 
the cover of the mould down in place 
over the paper. Tet stand three or 
four hours packed closely in equal 
measures of salt and crushed ice. 



OuKRY 787.— Mrs. P. F. S., Orange, N.J.: 
"Recipes for chicken bouillon, chocolate 
pie with meringue, and a correct recipe for 
crullers: one published at my request con- 
tains no shortening." 

Chicken Bouillon 
Disjoint a four-pound fowl. Put 
over the fire with two quarts of cold 
water. Bring very slowly to the 
boiling-point, and let simmer very 
gently three or four hours. Then add 
half an onion, three or four stalks 
of celery, two sprigs of parsley, and 
a bit of bay leaf, atid let simmer half 
an hour longer. Then drain off the 
liquid, and set aside to become cold. 
Remove the fat, and add water to the 
soup stock to make two quarts (each 
pound of chicken should yield one 
pint of soup). Add also the beaten 
whites and crushed shells of two eggs, 
salt, pepper, and other seasoning as 
desired. Stir constantly until the 
liquid boils. Let boil two or three 
minutes, then remove to a part of the 
stove where it will simmer ten min- 
utes. Skim off the scum from the 



Queries and Answers 



^75 



top, and strain the liquid through 
a double thickness of cheese-cloth, laid 
inside a sieve or colander. Reheat 
and serve. 

Chocolate Pie with Meringue 
Melt one square of chocolate over 
hot water. Add a tablespoonful of 
sugar and three or four tablespodnfuls 
of hot water, and stir and cook until 
smooth. Then turn into a cup and 
three-fourths of milk scalded over 
hot water. Sift together one-third 
a cup of flour, half a teaspoonful of 
salt, and half a cup of sugar, and stir 
into the hot liquid. Stir and cook 
until thickened. Then stir in the 
yolks of two eggs, beaten light, and 
a teaspoonful of vanilla, first diluting 
them with a little of the hot mixture. 
Turn into a plate lined with pastry, 
and set into the oven, to cook about 
twenty minutes. When baked, re- 
move, and let cool slightly. Then 
spread over the top a meringue made 
of the whites of two eggs and one- 
fourth a cup of sugar. Return to the 
oven for about six minutes, to cook 
and color the meringue a little. 

For the meringue, beat the whites 
nearly dry, then gradually beat in 
half of the sugar, and continue beat- 
ing until very dry and glossy, then 
fold in the rest of the sugar. 

Shortening in Crullers 
The recipe for crullers was correct 
as given. The recipe with which we 
have best success contains no butter 
or shortening, but either one whole 
egg and three yolks or two whole eggs 
and an extra yolk. Yolks of eggs 
contain considerable fat, and we have 
found that by the use of more yolks 
than whites we make crullers suffi- 
ciently rich for general use. The 
other ingredients are one cup of sugar, 
one cup of milk, one teaspoonful of 
salt, one level teaspoonful of soda, 



four and one-half level teaspoonfuls 
of cream of tartar, one-fourth a tea- 
spoonful of mace, and about five cups 
of sifted flour. No more flour should 
be used than is actually required for 
handling. 

QuKRY 788.— D. H., Hintonburg, Ont.: 
"Recipe for cucumber sandwiches." 

Cucumber Sandwiches 
Cut slices of Boston brown bread in 
rounds one-fourth an inch thick. 
Spread lightly with creamed butter, 
and put between each two slices a thin 
slice of crisp cucumber, dipped in 
French dressing. Serve as soon as 
prepared. 

QuKRY 789. — Mrs. F. G., Skowhegan, Me.:^ 
"Recipe for French charlotte." 

French Charlotte 
Soften half a two-ounce package of 
gelatine in half a cup of cold water. 
Whip one pint of cream, and set it 
aside on the ice to stiffen. Make a 
boiled custard of one pint of cream 
or rich milk, four eggs, and one-fourth 
a cup of sugar. Add the softened 
gelatine, and strain over one cup of 
grated cocoanut four ounces, each, of 
crurribled macaroons and lady fingers. 
Flavor with vanilla, and set aside, 
stirring occasionally until cold and 
just beginning to set. Stir until 
smooth, then beat in the whipped 
cream as gently as possible, and turn 
the mixture into a mould to become 
firm. 

Qu^RY 790. — Mrs. J. L. S., Gloucester, 
Mass.: "Kindly give information regarding 
cook-books or published recipes for dia- 
betics." 

Cook-book for Diabetics 
Longmans, London, publish a very 
small book on ' ' Cookery for the Diabe- 
tic." The book is written by W. H. 
and Mrs. Poole, and is sold in this 
country at $1. Any book-dealer will 



176 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



procure this book. We do not con- 
sider the book of any great value, but 
it may be worth the price. As a rule, 
most "made dishes" call for starch in 
some form, which makes them un- 
suitable for diabetic patients. On 
this account meat dishes are to be re- 
stricted largely to joints, roasted, 
broiled, or boiled. Milk or cream is 
often allowed; and, in such cases, 
chicken timbales made of raw meat 
may vary the standard forms of cook- 
ing chicken. Fish or sweetbreads 
may, also, be prepared by the same 
recipe. 

Chicken Timbales 
Pass the breasts of two raw chickens 
through a meat-chopper several times. 
Add a teaspoonful of salt, a dash of 
white pepper, and a grating of nut- 
meg. Then beat into the mixture, 
one by one, the whites of three eggs, 
and lastly, very gradually, one pint 
of cream. Bake in buttered timbale 
moulds, in hot water, on folds of paper. 
Serve turned from the moulds with 
well-buttered string beans. 

Diabetics seem to be able to digest 
cheese, and Welsh rabbit, made with 
cream or tomato with yolks of eggs, 
affords an agreeable change from un- 
cooked cheese. Uncooked cheese may 
be spread with butter, and eaten as 
a "butter-and-cheese sandwich." Fat 
in some form is the stand-by of those 
who suffer from this disease. 



Fruit Punch in Glasses. 



QuKRY 79 1. —Mrs. L. W., Charleston, S.C: 
"Luncheon menu for a card party in Octo- 
ber." 

LUNCHEON MENU FOR CARD PARTY 
IN THE SOUTH 

Oyster Cocktail in Sweet Peppers. 
Jellied Bouillon. Home-made Wafers. 



Broiled or Fried Chicken. Green Peas. 

Light Bread-and-Butter Sandwiches. 



Pineapple Mayonnaise. 



Ice-cream Moulded in Layers of Vanilla and 

Tutti-frutti. 

Lady Fingers. 



Salmon Croquettes. Potato Balls (French 

cutter). 

OHves. Small Beaten Biscuit. 



Query 792. — Mrs. A. H., Boston, Mass.: 
"Recipe for cauhflower souffle with sauce." 

Cauliflower Souffle 
Let a cauliflower stand, head down- 
ward, in cold salted water an hour 
or more, to draw out any insects that 
may be concealed within. Put over 
the fire to cook in boiling salted 
water. When tender, drain with care, 
then press through a colander. Melt 
two tablespoonfuls of butter. Add 
two tablespoonfuls of flour, half a tea- 
spoonful of salt, and a dash of black 
pepper. Cook until frothy, then add 
one cup of milk, or water in which 
the cauliflower was cooked. When 
the saUce boils, add half a cup of 
stale bread crumbs (centre of stale 
loaf), and from one to two cups of 
cauliflower puree. Stir in, also, the 
beaten yolks of three eggs, and, when 
well blended, fold in the whites of 
three eggs beaten dry. Turn the 
mixture into a well-buttered souffle 
dish and bake, with the dish stand- 
ing in hot water, about half an hour. 
When the centre is firm, serve at 
once in the baking-dish. One-fourth 
a cup of Parmesan cheese may be 
stirred into the sauce with the bread 
crumbs, or sifted with an additional 
half cup of bread crumbs, moistened 
with melted butter, over the top of 
the souffle, just before it is put into 
the oven. Serve with a well-buttered 
cream sauce. 

{Continued on page x) 



ROVAL 

BAKING 
POWDER 



WffI aid the 
cook as 
no other 
agent will 
to make 



The dainty cake, 

The white and flaky tea biscuit, 

The sweet and tender hot griddle cake. 

The light and delicate crust, 

The finely flavored waffle and muffin, 

The crisp and delicious doughnut. 

The white, sweet, nutritious bread and roll, — 

Delightful to the taste and always wholesome, 

Royal Baking Powder is absolutely 
free from lime, alum and ammonia. 



There are many imitation baking powders, 
mostly made from alum and sold cheap. Avoid 
them, as their use is at the cost of health. 



ROYAL BAKING POWDER CO., NEW YORK. 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



(Concluded from page 176) 

Query 793. A. A. S., Boston, Mass.: 
"How can I make a beef stew that has a' 
deHghtfnl flavor?" 

Well-flavored Beef Stew 

Select a piece of meat containing 
both lean and tat, and some bone. 
A few pounds from the centre of the 
hind shin is often chosen, because the 
bone contains marrow, which may 
be used, in part at least, for sauteing 
the meat. Cut the meat in small 
pieces, dredge with flour, and saute 
in the marrow. Then add, for two 
pounds of meat, about two quarts 
of cold water, and let simmer very 
gently about three hours. Now add 
an onion and half a carrot, cut in 
small pieces, and sauted a delicate 
straw-color. Add, also, half a red or 
green pepper and a cup of cooked 
tomatoes, pressed through a sieve. 
Let cook about an hour, then remove 
the bones, skim off the fat, season 
with salt, and add about a pint of 
sliced tomatoes, parboiled five min- 
utes and drained. Serve when the 
tomatoes are tender. 



In Acknowledgment 

For the individual breakfast service 
and cocktail cups we are indebted 
to the kindness of Jones, McDuffee 
& Stratton. The silver grape dish 
and shears were loaned by Shreve, 
Crump & Low. The weathered oak 
chafing-dish cabinet is from the house 
of Geo. J. Bicknell Co. These are 
dealers of fine goods in Boston. 



It doesn't take much to awaken the 
dormant domestic instinct in any 
woman. The discovery that she looks 
well in a bib apron will do it. 



Some women are so busy out hunt- 
ing after happiness that they fail to 
see it lurking in a corner of the fireside 
at home. 



Two Tips and Both Winners 

A man gets a friendly tip now and 
then that's worth while. 

A Nashville man says: "For many 
years I was a perfect slave to coffee, 
drinking it every day, and all the 
time I suffered with stomach trouble 
and such terrific nervousness that 
at times I was unable to attend to 
business and life seemed hardly worth 
living. I attributed my troubles to 
other causes than coffee, and con- 
tinued to drench my system with 
this drug. Finally, I got so bad 
I could not sleep, my limbs were 
weak and trembling; and I had a 
constant dread of some impending 
danger, and the many medicines 
I tried failed to help me at all. 

"One day a friend told me what 
Postum had done for her husband, 
and advised me to quit coffee and 
try it; but I would not do so. Fi- 
nally, another friend met me on the 
street one day, and, after talking 
about my health, he said, 'You try 
Postum Cereal Coffee, and leave cof- 
fee alone,' adding that his nervous 
troubles had all disappeared when 
he gave up coffee and began to drink 
Postum. 

"This made such a great impres- 
sion on me that I resolved to try it, 
although I confess I had little hopes. 
However, I started in, and, to my 
unbounded surprise, in less than two 
weeks I was like another person. 
All of my old troubles are now gone, 
and I am a strong, healthy living 
example of the wonderful rebuilding 
power of Postum. It is a fine drink 
as well as a delicious beverage, and 
I know it will correct all coffee ills. 
I know what a splendid effect it had 
on me to give up coffee and drink 
Postum." Name given by Postum 
Company, Battle Creek, Mich 

There's a reason. 

Look in each package for a copy of 
the famous little book, "The Road 
to Wellville." 







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When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazin: 



Notes and Correspondence 

A DDRESS communications for this department to Janet M. Hill, Editor of the Boston 



Cooking-School Magazine, 2,1 '2 Boylston Street, Boston. 



Household Aid Company of 
Boston 

(Under the Auspices of the Woman's Educa- 
tion Association) 

In August the Household Aid Com- 
pany of Boston opened a class for 
twenty "Aids." This was in prepa- 
ration for offering to the public in 
the fall the services of trained helpers 
for all forms of work in the household. 

The course consists of instruction 
and practical training in the elements 
of household work. 

All the "Aids" live and receive 
instruction in a central house. 

Candidates for admission must be 
young women at least seventeen years 
of age, with the equivalent of a gram- 
mar-school education, and, as far as 
possible, one year of high-school work. 

The "Aids" are received for two 
weeks' probation without any ex- 
pense to themselves. At the end 
of that time they make a contract 
with the company for a definite length 
of time, three or six months, and re- 
ceive compensation for a definite 
number of hours a week. This will 
amount to from $2.50 to $5 per week. 
From this salary will be deducted a 
moderate amount for room and board. 

When the "Aids" have finished 
their training course, and are ready 
for regular work, each one will be 
graded according to her skill, and 
will be paid from 8 to 25 cents an 
hour, according to the quantity and 
quality of the work she is capable of 
doing. As she becomes more effi- 
cient, the salary will be increased. 

There will be no washing or heavy 
scrubbing. Instruction will be given 
{Continued on page xiv) 



Cubs' Food 

They thrive on Grape-nuts 

Healthy babies don't cry, and the 
well-nourished baby that is fed on 
Grape-nuts is never a crying baby. 
Many babies, who cannot take any 
other food, relish the perfect food 
Grape-nuts and get well. 

"My little baby was given up by 
three doctors, who said that the con- 
densed milk on which I had fed it 
had ruined the child's stomach. One 
of the doctors told me that the only 
.thing to do would be to try Grape- 
nuts. So I got some and prepared 
it as follows: I soaked i^ tablespoon- 
fuls in one pint of cold water for 
half an hour, then I strained off 
the liquid, and mixed 12 teaspoon- 
fuls of this strained Grape-nuts juice 
with 6 teaspoonfuls of rich milk, 
put in a pinch of salt and a little 
sugar, warmed it, and gave it to 
baby every two hours. 

' ' In this simple, easy way I saved 
baby's life, and have built her up 
to a strong, healthy child, rosy and 
laughing. The food must certainly 
be perfect to have such a wonderful 
effect as this. I can truthfully say 
I think it is the best food in the world 
to raise delicate babies on, and is 
also a delicious, healthful food for 
grown-ups, as we have discovered 
in our family." Name given by 
Postum Company, Battle Creek, Mich. 

Grape-nuts is equally valuable to 
the strong, healthy man or woman. 

Grape-nuts food stands for the 
true theory of health. 

Look in each package for a copy 
of the famous little book, "The Road 
to Wellville." 




When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xiii 



Notes and Correspondence 



{Continued from page xii) 
in ironing, and in such light scrub- 
bing as is necessary for the daily put- 
ting in order. 

As the demand increases, other 
houses will be opened in different 
parts of the city and suburbs, where 
the "Aids" will live, going to their 
work daily. 

"Aids" will be encouraged and 
helped to acquire greater skill, that 
they may increase their earning power 
by being advanced to positions as 
marketers, daily housekeepers, shop- 
pers, household managers, dress- 
makers, milliners, etc. 

Here are some of the proposed 
prices to be paid per hour: household 
aids, five grades, 8 to 25 cents; cooks, 
four grades, 25 to 75 cents; household 
managers, five grades, 35 cents to $1 ; 
seamstresses, two grades, 15 and 20 
cents; dressmakers, two grades, 35 
and 50 cents; milliners, two grades, 
50 cents and $1 ; shoppers, two grades, 
25 and 50 cents; upholsterers and de- 
signers, four grades, 25 cents to $1. 



Miss Frances L. Chase, class of 
1900, Boston Cooking School, teacher 
of cookery in the normal department 
of Clark University, South Atlanta, 
during her summer vacation assisted 
at the vacation cooking school at 
Waltham, Mass. 



Miss Grace E. Moore, class of 1902, 
last year gave three lessons a week 
at the Illinois Training School for 
Nurses, a course of chafing-dish dem- 
onstrations, and a course of lessons, 
each, at the Augustana and St. Mary's 
Hospitals, also private lessons in cook- 
ery during the summer.- Last month 
Miss Moore began work in Bay City, 
Mich., having been appointed teacher 
of domestic science in the public 
schools. 



of housekeeper at Butler Hospital, 
Providence, R.I., was obliged, on 
account of ill-health, to resign her 
position last spring. Miss Shields 
has been benefited by her summer's 
rest, and will soon be ready to take 
up work again. 



Miss Anne C. Rankin, class of 1902, 
has this past year completed the course 
in sewing at Lewis Institute, Chicago. 
At the opening of the school year she 
began her duties as supervisor of the 
Domestic Science Department of the 
high school at Wausau, Wis. This 
school has three large rooms equipped 
completely for kitchen, dining-room, 
and sewing-room. 



Anne Louisa Ide, whose paper on 
"Housekeeping in Manila" appears 
in this issue, is a daughter of Hon. 
Henry C. Ide, of the American Phil- 
ippine Commission. In a personal 
letter to the editor, Miss Ide writes: 
' ' I lived in Samoa for four years with 
yearly vacations in New Zealand and 
Australia. Came home from Samoa 
around the world, via Suez Canal, . 
and took an extended European tour. 
The next winter I journey through 
the West Indies. We have been in 
the Philippines three years, with one 
trip back to the United States and 
a very thorough tour of the entire 
Philippines. I expect to start for 
Manila early in October. 



Piaffe 




.. Ai T CM. 1. 1 . The Odorless Disinfectant 

Miss Alice L. bnieldS, class of 1897, Destroy disease germs. Sold in quart bottles only by drug- 

who for four years held the position §'•««, high-class grocers, and houie-fUmishing dealers. 

^ ^ Manufactured by H E N R Y B. PL ATT, Naw York 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xiv 



Advertisements 



^t^ftt**^**J(^:t4kt**t: M^ ^tttt M t ^ 



childrem, 



'Tefthinc 



THE BEST OF ALL AND 

For over sixty years Mrs. Winslow's 
Soothing Syrup has been used by mothers 
for their children while teething. Are you 
disturbed at night and broken of your rest 
by a sick child suffering and crying with 
pain of Cutting Teeth ? If so, send at once 
and get a bottle of " Mrs. Winslow's S<x)th- 
ing Syrup" for Children Teething. Its 
value is incalculable. It will relieve the 
poor little sufferer immediately. Depend 
upon it, mothers, there is no mistake 
about it. It cures diarrhoea, regulates the 
Stomach and Bowels, cures Wind Colic, 
softens the Gums, reduces Inflammation, 
and gives tone and energy to the whole 
system. *' Mrs. Winslow's Soothing Syrup " 
for children teething is pleasant to the taste 
and is the prescription of one of the oldest 
and best female physicians and nurses in 
the United States, and is for sale by all 
druggists throughout the world. Price, 
twenty-five cents a bottle. Be sure and ask 
for " Mrs. Winslow's Soothing Syrup." -^ 



K79799^ 




Nothing Under the Sun 

will clean and polish Silver in every form and finisli like 

gLECTRo 

Zl Silver Polish ^ 

Silicon 

Trial quantity for the asking. 
Box postpaid 15 cents (stamps). 

ELECTRO-SILICON SILVER SOAP, 

if you prefer a soap to a powder, has equal merits. 

Grocers and Druggists and postpaid on receipt of price. 

15 CENTS PER CAKE. 

"SiiiicoN," 30 Cliff Street, New York. 




^ ^ ^ 





Imported, 
Quadruple- 
coated 




"The Ware 
that Wears" 




When enameled ware is offered to you as "Imported," 

that's the time to be careful ! 

All STRANSKY WARE is imported, but all imported ware 

is not STRANSKY. 




LASTS FOR YEARS. 
Used and recommended by the highest cooking authorities. 



STRANSKY (gl CO., NewYorK 






When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 



Book Reviews 



A NY book reviewed or advertised in this magazine will be sent postpaid on receipt of the 
"^^^ price by the Cooking-School Magazine. 



Marion Harland's Complete Cook 

Book. Cloth. Illustrated, pp. 780. 

Price $2 net. Indianapolis: The 

Bobbs-Merrill Co. 

One does not attempt to teach a 
school without some knowledge of the 
subjects to be taught; but many a 
young woman will begin the more im- 
portant matter of housekeeping, hav- 
ing merely the slightest acquaintance 
with the subjects involved. Often 
the first intelligent step in the conduct 
of home life dates from the purchase 
of the first cook-book. 

Marion Harland's "Common Sense 
in the Household" was published 
thirty-one years ago. Hundreds of 
thousands of copies have been sold. 
Than her name no other name has 
become more familiar to an entire 
generation of housekeepers. The 
"Complete Cook Book" claims to be 
"a practical and exhaustive manual 
of cooking and housekeeping." It 
contains ' ' thousands of carefully 
proved recipes (prepared for the house- 
wife, not for the chef) and many 
chapters on the care and management 
of the home." In brief, it is ' 'the final 
expression of her life's experience, — 



the result of over thirty of the best 
years of a busy life given to the task 
of dignifying housewifery into a pro- 
fession. " " Housewifery, ' ' the author 
has faith, "is keeping pace with other 
professions in the swinging march of 
an age of wonders"; and this book 
bears evident marks which justify the 
statement. 

As in her former books, so in this 
the familiar talks on general topics 
of concern in the home are a promi- 
nent feature. The illustrations are 
numerous and fine, — a marked char- 
acteristic of the modern and up-to- 
date cook-book. 

Among the many culinary and 
household works that have been pub- 
lished during the past year this large, 
attractive, and interesting volume 
will take high rank as a distinct and 
valuable contribution to the art of 
home-making. 



The Land Oi^ Heather. By Clifton 
Johnson. Cloth. Illustrated. Price 
$2 net. New York: Macmillan 
& Co. 
This is a charming description of 

the people and land which Scott and 



TO HOLD 

CORSET 

YOU CAN RELY ON 



THE STOCKINGS 
UP OR THE 
DOWN 





/y ^iA' 




Simple pair, 
bymail, 25ci 
If your dealer is **up to date," he 
has the popular styles 
GEORGE FROST CO., Makers, Boston, Mass. 



HOSE 
SUPPORTER 



CUSHION 
BUTTON 



The Name is on 
every Loopffi^^" 




When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xvi 



Advertisements 




THE 

SINGLE 
^ DAMPER 

AND 
PERFECT 

RESULTS«W"<>3 



(ffwford 




f^ The Single Damper 
(patented) is the invention 
of the makers of Crawford 
Ranges. This is the greatest 
improvement ever made in 
cooking stoves and 

No Other Range Has It. 

One motion instantly regu- 
lates both fire and oven. 
Two - Damper ranges are 
difficult and confusing. 

Crawfords have more improvements than 
all other ranges combined. Improved Dock- 
Ash Grates; Improved Oven, with heat-saving, cup. 
joint flues and asbestos back; R.eliable Heat- 
Indicator; Removable Nickeled Edge-Rails. 
A Crawford sent on 30 days' trial 
if there is no agent in your toWn. 
Send for Illustrated Circulars describing our 
various styles. 




When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 



Book Reviews 



Burns did so much to render forever 
memorable. The writer becomes a 
homely traveler. He is a keen ob- 
server, and in his own peculiar and 
characteristic vein portrays the ways 
of rural life and the country folk of 
Scotia. The reader catches a glimpse 
once more of the Drumtochty folk 
made famous by Ian Maclaren's "Be- 
side the Bonnie Brier Bush." He 
is led through rural hamlets and 
highland glens, over historic grounds 
and Lochs and Bens, and is delighted 
ever with the new scenes and epi- 
sodes to which he is introduced. 

The words of a reviewer of Mr. 
Johnson's former work, "Along French 
Byways," are equally applicable to 
"The Tand of Heather." It is "a 
book of strolling, a book of nature, 
a book of humble peasant life inter- 
mingled with the chance experiences 
of the narrator." An interesting, 
readable, and attractive narrative 
of a visit to the quaint people of a 
picturesque land. 



How TO MAKE) Baskets: More Bas- 
kets and How to make them. 
By Mary White. Cloth. Illus- 
trated. Price $1 each. New York; 
Doubleday, Page & Co. 
The great interest in Indian baskets 
has drawn new attention to the art 
of basket-making, with the result 
that basketrv has found immediate 



favor, not only in schools and training 
classes, but as a most attractive pas- 
time and means of occupation among 
grown people as well. These little 
manuals are the only guides to the 
work. Miss White describes in de- 
tail the few necessary implements 
and materials, and then tells how to 
weave, first, the simpler forms, next 
the more difficult patterns, and finally 
the complicated and beautiful work 
for which the Indians were once fa- 
mous, but which is now rapidly be- 
coming a lost art. 

Contents of vol. i. : "Materials, 
Tools, Preparation, Weaving"; "Raf- 
fia and Some of its Uses"; "Mats 
and their Borders"; "The Simplest 
Baskets " ; " Covers " ; " Handles ' ' ; 
"Work Baskets"; "Candy Baskets"; 
"Scrap Baskets"; "Birds' Nests"; 
"Oval Baskets"; "The Finishing 
Touch"; "How to cane Chairs"; 
"Some Indian Stitches"; "What the 
Basket means to the Indian." . 



Webster's International Dictionary 
is the dictionary now recommended 
by the United States Supreme Court, 
by all of the vState Supreme Courts, by 
the United States Government Print- 
ing Office, by all of the vState School 
Superintendents, by most of the Col- 
lege Presidents, and by Statesmen and 
Scholars all over the English-speaking 
world. All other editions are out of 
date. 



mmmmmamm 




SURE 



to "Jell." 
to be wholesome, 
to be dainty, delicious. 
Send IS Cents and ^°^ FuiUsized Twc= 

r>enu 13 Cenu^ cinu ^^^^^ package and our 
your SfrOCer's name new "Minute Man" 
•^ * Recipe Book. This book 

tells about our Minute Tapioca, Minute Jella=Crysta, 
and Minute M,alta-Coffeena (Malted Cereal Coffee). 

Address Dept. S, Whitman Grocery Co.. Orange, Mass. 




iliiiilEGELATlNE 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xviii 



I 



Advertisements 




Crystal. 



SUOARi 

. HAVEMEYERS&ELDEF? 





Triumph 
in 



Sold only In 5lb. sealed bcwcesi 



"CRYSTAL DOMINO SUGAR " is packed in neat, sealed boxes, and is NEVER sold in bulk. It is packed at the 
refinery and opened in the household ;— there is no intermediate handling. Hence, no dirt, no waste, no possible adult- 
eration. Every piece alike— and every piece sparkles like a cluster of diamonds, the result of its perfect crystallization. 
Convenient in form, perfect in quality, brilliant in appearance, no sugar made can equal it in excellence. When 
bjjying this sugar remember that the sealed package bears the design of a "Domino" Mask," Domino" Stones, the 
name of "Crystal Domino," as well as the names of the manufacturers. You will be pleased the moment you open 
a box You will be better pleased when you have tried it in your tea, coffee, etc. It is sold by ALL FIRST CLASS 
GROCERS, and is manufactured only by HAVEMEYERS & ELDER 5UGAR REFINERY. NEW YORK. 




Bell's Spiced Seasoning; 

Delicately flavored seasonitig gives Turkey, Chicken, Fowl, Fish, and Game a 
pungent, rich, appetizing flavor that is pure as nature, healthful as sunshine. 
Most economical. None other like Bell's ; none so good ; ^d years the favorite. 
Ask grocer for I^ell's. We will send enough to flavor the dressing for a ten- 
pound turkey, free of charge, to any woman sending the name of her grocer, 
if he does not sell Bell's Spiced Seasoning, or for lo cents will send can 
containing enough to flavor the dressing for one hundred pounds of meat or 
poultry. 

THE WILLIAM Q. BELL CO., 44 Commercial St,, Boston, Mass. 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

six 



Household Hints 




Secret of Perpetual Youth 

Some one once asked a woman 
how it was she kept her youth so 
wonderfully. True that her hair was 
snowy white — she was eighty years old 
— and that her energy was waning; 
but she never impressed one with 
the idea of age, for her heart was still 
young in sympathy and interests. 
And this was her answer: — 

* ' I knew how to forget disagreeable 
things. 

"I tried to master the art of saying 
pleasant things. 

"I did not expect too much of my 
friends. 

' ' I kept my nerves well in hand, and 
did not allow them to bore other 
people. 

' ' I tried to find any work that came 
to hand congenial. 

' ' I retained the illusions of my youth, 
and did not believe 'every man a 
liar ' and every woman spiteful. 

' ' I did my best to relieve the misery 
I came in contact with, and sympa- 
thized with the suffering. 

"In fact, I tried to do to others as 
I would be done by, and" you see me 
in consequence reaping the fruits of 
happiness and a peaceful old age." 

There are many of us who might 
do worse than begin to try that old 
lady's code of behavior, and see if, 
after diligently practising its precepts, 
we agree with her method of insur- 
ing perpetual youth. — New York Sun- 
day News. 

Small Catherine spilled the ink over 
her mother's desk, the rug, the chairs, 
and her own apron. When her father 
returned at night, his little daughter 
met him at the door and asked, ' ' Papa, 
how much does a bottle of ink cost?" 
' ' Oh, about five cents. " " Five cents ! ' ' 
exclaimed the little girl, in a tone of 
deep disgust. "And just to think 
that mamma would make all that fuss 
about one little bottle of ink!" — July 
Lippincotfs. 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 



Advertisements 



'■y refreshing vvUhcoJd 
cresses are m 



Mix with 



aeaten 



'S/j 



3^(^-6, 



''^h 



1^ 01 coJd Boiled ham 

- , ^ a 1^ Terrapin 



and peppei 



o£ sott mubu 



^'■/e(^ 



Of 



LJlLjnijjL!iis^ 



finely' 



^ nful oi ^* 









r-- "wa. upon n,u i. "■"'J} 



with^ 



Halibut a la. Delmonica 

'orZr^~";; -— -__ ^ tablespoon fuls 

^""^ of~Mmto^ 

eupfuls of chopga^.^..-' — — ' 

Fig Pudding 

">v^^ 2 cupfiils of bre^ 

/>>>-v^^^ 1 cupful of suga/ 
(o ^^f ^J^^upfuls of n ■■ 




Beef Spanish 

nely chor 



oyster 



Te»- 



XViop 



tbe 



•water. 



No. loo 

with 

four knives, 

|i.5o 



— n< 



Cold Slaw 

age and shred 

er is ^ot,»'^,f^^^ 






'^^e^ °f 



3 teaspoont 
2 teaspoontuj 
teaspoonu 
'^/j^>-<i)eetbe| 




Stuffed Eggs 

take 

Pped cooked 
melted 



Tfff GREATEST OF ALL 
KITCHEN HELPS 

and savers is an Enterprise Food Chopper. It 
chops all kinds of food quickly, easily, uni- 
formly and to any desired size. It makes pos- 
sible many dainty dishes that could not be 
made without it. By utilizing left-over food 
It is a great saver— usually paying for itself in 
the first week or so. The 

ENTERPRISE 

FOOD CHOPPER 

is strong,durable,easily cleaned and cannot rust. 
Sold by all hardware, housefurnishing and de- 
partment stores. '* Enterprise'' on each machine. 
The recipes shown here are taken from "The Enterpris- 
ing Houseke^er," a book of 200 tested recipes by Helen 
Louise Johnson, showing the many uses of the Enter- 
prise Food Chopper. Sent for 4c in stamps. 

THE ENTERPRISE MFG. CO. OF PA., Philadelphia, Pa. 



ov^°« 



Cbutney 



^ one /?aj, ^''iSd^S^ri?^ 



* Ham Relish 

cupful of cold boiled ham, chopped fine 
of cream 




jystets. 

put ^» 
^^'-A P'>it 



M^ 



,cU cup ^ 
boUer 



*!.r*e»-'js 



tlitoug^ 
-. Car '^se 



1b\s 



^\\\ 



Hamburg Steaks 

k from the round 

1 tablespoonful of c 
-;j^ 2 or 3 drops of oni 



, 0/ A,* 0/ ^ 



ewy^Doram may be ad 



'OA 



the seasonin 
iw -ojiful 

'or 



"sque of 

,of butter 



rt^f!f<^o.y^ 



^ tab/esnn. 



Pineapple Pie 

2 eggs 
/^ — ^.^1 small pi 



Boudins 

Is of finely-chopped coo 

Scra-pple 

ill hog's head into h; 



Sa\t 






Turkey Soup 



Urt 



ee 



°^i. 



Of 

lieu 






1 cupfu 
3 tables 
It an( 



Souffle 



*2P2i^jr:!' 



3 „_ 

2 tabl 
1 cupS 



Mutton Ragout 

2 cupfuls of cold chopped meat 
1 tablespoonful of butter ^ 



I cupful of stock 
1 teasi 



Sal 



Nut Butter 






Lobster Salad 

obsler ^eat in^ 
V cool placg-^ X»y 









:Xve' 



^>.>1S^ 









-.1^ 



[ulof chopped boiled ham 

' "^ rmesan cheese 



New York Hash 

9 .Z? f^«7c°Pf"J «f cooked chopped meat take 
■^ cuptuls ot Chopned nntatngj o t^Kl«cr^«^, 



Ham Canapes 

i cupful of crea 
Paprica to tasU 




When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xxi 



Household Hints 



INDIAN BASKETRY Uught by EXPERTS 
You can make from $7.00 to $15.00 per week 



ANY ONE 
CAN LEARN 
IT AT HOME 

BY MAIL 




COMPLETE 
OUTFIT AND 

COURSE, 
ONE 

DOLJ,AR 



YOUR WORK. DONE AT HOME, 
PURCHASED BY US 



Write to-day, enclosing gil.OO for Complete Coiarse of Instruc- 
tion, consisting of illnstrated lessons in detail, together with 
an outtit of natural and colored Ratia, Leeds, Needles, and a 
started Basket. A delightful and lucrative pastime for 
women. Latest fad. Make beautiful Indian Baskets for 
the Holidays. Sent, prepaid, tor gl.OO, anywhere in United 
States or Canada. Order to-day. 

ORIGINAL APACHE SCHOOL OF INDIAN BAS- 
KET WEAVING, Como BIdg., Chicago, III., U.S.A. 



BUY THE CELEBRATED 



CHAMBERLIN 
I STEAM COOKER 

g Cooks Everything. 

^ Used on a gas, coal, or o\\ stove, it will 

" cook a big dinner with but flame enough 
1| to keep 2 quarts water boiling. It will 
do the every-day cooking with least pos- 
sible trouble and gives out no odor. Un- 
surpassed as a Fruit Canner, for which 
directions go with each Cooker, and it is 

u' used extensively as a Sterilizer. 

rt The best in the world. Send /or circular 

" S. W. Chamberlin Co. 

Office and Manufactory, 25 Union Street 
BOSTON, MASS. 




CHampion 

Stove Clay. 



$HAMPltt 



For Mending Cracks and 
Holes in the Stove Lining. 

Does your oven bake un- 
evenly ? Do ashes sift through 
on to the baking food.-" Is 
your oven sometimes unac- 
countably "slow" and at 
other times too "quick"? 
Do you know why? Probably 
there's a crack or hole in 
the brick lining of the fire- 
box, giving the fierce heat 
direct access to the thin 
iron plate forming the oven 
front. Your oven will not 
bake right till this hole is 
stopped, and unless stopped 
soon your oven plate will be 
warped and ruined. If you 
want to know what to do about it, send for booklet entitled 



|Spgi:port,conjj,;^ 



*' What Ails the Stove 



f f 



Free, explaining the use of Champion Stove Clay and 
containing a hundred testimonials from users. 



Don't neglect the Stove Lining: the 
Life of the Stove depends upon it. 



Bridgeport Crucible Company, 

Bridgfeporty Conn. 



Lime Juice Island 
Nearly all the lime juice used in the 
world comes from the tiny island of 
Montserrat, in the British West Indies. 
The lime grows wild in many West 
Indian islands, but only in Montserrat 
is it used commercially. That island 
is one vast garden of lime-trees, and 
nowhere in the world is there a finer 
sight than its thirty miles of orchards, 
laden with the fruit of the lime or 
fragrant with its blossoms. 

The fruit is gathered by negro 
women, who carry it down the hills 
to the shipping port in big baskets on 
their heads. Like all West Indians, 
they are remarkable for their ability 
to carry heavy weights in this manner. 
Once the company, which controls the 
lime-juice industry, sought to lighten 
the burdens of its laborers by intro- 
ducing wheelbarrows. 

The negroes filled the wheelbarrows 
readily enough, and then carried them 
on their heads as they had been used 
to carry the baskets. Many a negro 
woman will carry a hundred-weight 
of limes on her head for a distance of 
a mile or more. — Indianapolis News. 



A Bargain in Travel 



Regular rate, Boston to Albany 
Down the Hudson to New York 
Fall River Line to Boston . 



The entire round trip for 



$4-50 
2.00 
4.00 

510.50 

$5.00 



From Boston Thursday, October 

8, on the Boston & Albany Railroad. 

From points west of Boston, October 

7. For descriptive leaflet, address 

A. S. Hanson, 

Gen. Pass. Agent, Boston. 



BREAD MACHINE 

For Household Usb. 
Sifts the flour and mixes 10 pounds 
of best bread in three minutes. Sold 
subject to trial and approval. Send 
for Booklet. Agents wanted. 
Scientific Bread Machine Co. 

(Cyrus Chambers, Jr.) 
52d and Media Sts., Philadelphia 




When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xxii 



Advertisements 



RALSTONpSs 
WATER-STILL 





Do you Drink 
Impure Water 9 

If you do, it is because you don't care, 

for as an intelligent person you must 

know that impure water is a most potent 

cause of sickness and disease. 

But why drink impure water when you can 

get pure water right in your home with no 

trouble or worry, at very small expense by 

using the 

Ralston p^ss Water-Still 

It is the simplest Still in its internal construction, will 
distill 22 per cent, more water— and better water than 
any other upon the market. It cannot boil dry, or rust 
out, as it is made entirely of non-corrodible metal. 
Will last a lifetime. Absolutely the best. 

The American ^^^^HH^^ ^^^ liixXe book- 
Water Still Co. ■iHllif tJl ^et "Plain Facts 
About the Water 
Question," i s 
Mfg. Co. " BBIIHJK liirrit i|| worth having. 

Dept. F BHllJJW Yours for 

1218 Broadway, ■M«Hii Postal. 
New 
York 







CID^aiJp 





Success 



Is not always obtained by 
using the proper ingredients 
or the skill of the cook, but 
by having the right sort of 
tools to work with. We keep 
all the up-to-date inventions 
and devices for cooking. 

Our store is noted for its 
fine assortment of novelties. 

Moulds, Cutters, Casseroles, 
Madeleines, Bordure, 
Tartelette, Savarins. 

Specialties in China and 
Glass Moulds made to our 
order in Europe. 

Our catalogue you will 
find instructive and enter- 
taining and profusely illus- 
trated. By mail, 20c. 

F. A. Walker & Co., 

83-85 Cornhlll, Boston, 
Mass. ScoUay Square 
Subway Station. 








^heUniversaF 




ABSOLUTE PURITY 

IN KITCHEN UTENSILS 

FREEDOM FROM POISON 
is hereby guaranteed 




The "Btue Label on e-Oery piece pro-Vej our 
jiatemenf. 

When you buy Kitchen-Ware, buy 

AGATE NICKEL-STEEL. 

LALANCE C^ GROSJEAN MFG. CO. 

New York Boston Chicago 



wnen you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

zxiii 



Household Hints 



s 



Makes a success of any Soup, 
Sauce, or Salad Dressing. . . . 

McILHENNY'S 
TABASCO. 

The perfection of flavor, the 
epitome of strength. Avoid 
cheap substitutes, and use only 
the original Mcllhenny's, made 
at New Iberia, Louisiana. 
Booklet containing recipes on 
request. 

E. M c Ilh E N N y's Son, 

New Iberia, Louisiana. 
Boston Office, 42 Central Street. 




The conscientious grocer will tell 
you the facts about Bromangelon. 
The unscrupulous one may try to sub- 
stitute another article. Bromangelon 
is the original powdered dessert jelly 
preparation. 

The ONE Perfect DESSERT JELLY 

Its deliciousness and purity are unequalled. 
/Jc. the package. At all leading Grocers, 

Illustrated Booklet Free. 
Stern & Saalberg, Mfrs., New York. 



Spices 

In tropical countries, between lati- 
tude twenty-three degrees south and 
twenty- three degrees north of the 
equator, the inhabitants use spices 
with their food as we use pepper. A 
certain beneficial effect is caused to 
the digestion; namely, stimulant and 
carminative. But there is a secondary 
effect, which is, perhaps, even more 
beneficial, seen in the fact that the 
volatile oil passes out from the body, 
mostly unchanged, through various 
channels, but chiefly through the 
lungs and skin. So that, in the tropics, 
nature has provided antiseptics which, 
in passing out by the lungs and skin, 
kill the hurtful microbes, which might 
be breathed in, and also prevent, to 
a great extent, the attack of mos- 
quitoes. It is a well-known fact that 
insects, including mosquitoes, dislike 
volatile oils, and will probably not 
attack an individual using spices as 
a food adjunct. It is interesting to 
note that spices grow where there 
is a high rainfall combined with much 
heat, — conditions under which mala- 
rial influences prevail. The author 
quotes various authorities in regard 
to the antiseptic, antipyretic, and 
other properties of aromatics. — Jour- 
nal of Tropical Medicine. 



New Twists on Old Saws 

Look before you sleep. 

Many are called, but few get up. 

Eat your steak, or you'll have stew. 

As you sew, so must you rip. 

Where there's a will, there's a law- 
suit. 

Pride cometh before, and the bill 
Cometh after. 

Tamper not with fledged fools. 



Glut 

BABLE 

Perfect Breakfast 
rANSy PLOU 

UoUka an 
For 




es on dveiy pacKage* 

ts »» 

STALS» 

Heakb Cereab. 
Cake as4 Pastrf» 

Ask Grooen» 

wHte 



When you write advertisers, please mention Thk Boston Cookixg-School Magazine. 



Advertisements 





mwuMlk 



MfA 



Youth and Age alike delight 
in them — 

Crisp, dainty, delicious — the 
one perfect water cracker — 

Delightful with milk or broth 
and soups or salads. 

S. S. PIERCE CO. 

Selling Agents 
Boston BrooKline 




FOOD MADE WITH 

Mrs. LINCOLN S 

BAKING POWDER 

Is finer grained, tweeter, more 
healthful, and keeps moist 
longer than that raised by the 
more rapi.^ action of powden 
containing other acids. 



Grocers 



It 



e08T0N, MASS. 
AFTER MANY YEARS* EXPERIENCE, I 
AM CONVINCED THAT A PURE CREAM OF , 
TAfiTAR BAKIN6 POWDER IS THE BEST j 
QUICK LEAVENIN(^ AGENT, ANO IS Aj 
WHOLESOME FOOD ADJUNCT. 

I GUARANTEE THAT THIS POWDER, 
PREPARED AFTER MY FORMUU, CON-, 
TAINS ONLY THE HIGHEST POSSIBLE 
GRADE OF CREAM OF TARTAR AND BI- 
CARBONATE OF SODA, WITH THE SMAU- 
EST PERCENTAGE OF CORN STARCH 
NECESSARY FOR jTS PERFECT KEEPING. 
AS LONG AS MY SIGNATURE.APPEAR8 
ON THESE LABELS, HOUSEKEEPERS MAY ^ 
BE SURE THAT THIS FORMULA WILL BE 
FOLUOWEB IN THE MANUFACTURE OF 
' THIS BAKING POWDER. 



( ^fe<wC 



"3O8TOM COOK lOOX" 
OF MRS UNCOLH't BAKIM4 
POWDER OOMPANY. 



NoM geaviae witkout Mrs. Mary J. Lin«aln's signatvra 





IDEAL 
FOOD 



Karo Corn Syrup is an ideal 

food for old or young — weak 

or strong. It furnishes energy 

and strength-producing properties 

in a pure form — ready for use by 

the blood. 



CORN SYRUP 

The Great Spread 
for Daily 3read 

is a table delicacy children love and 
thrive upon. An appetizer that 
makes y oil eat. Good for every 
home use from griddle cakes 
to candy. Sold in airtight, 
friction-top tins, loc. , 
4 25c. and 50c. 

At all grocers. 

CORN 
PRODUCTS CO. 

>"^ New York 

and 
Chicago. 








When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

XXV 



Household Hints 



osa^^rQQ&:2Q&Q z 



--QCQSCQQ(rQQ&3 



Ancient 
Kitchen Tools 

are all right for a museum. They 
have no place in the modern kitchen. 
It is just as reasonable to expect a 
harvest with a hand plow as good 
cooking from poor kitchen toofs. 
We have a full supply of 

Up=to=Date 
Kitchen Appliances. 

They save Time, Money, Labor, each 
one saving many times the cost of the 
Utensil. Call and look over our 
Stock. Inquiries cheerfully answered. 
Address 

LEWIS & CONGER, 

130=132 West 42nd Street, 
NEW YORK. 



Cold 

Desserts 

AND 

Ice-cream 

Smooth 

Velvety 
Delicious 

can be easily and quickly made 
at small expense with 

Junket Tablets 

Order a package now from your dealer, or we 
will mail ten tablets, postpaid, for ten cents. 

CHR. HANSEN'S LABORATORY 

Box J2J2 LITTLE FALLS, N.Y. 



October 8 is the Date 

$5 is the Rate 

The Famous Autumnal Excursion 
on the Boston &■ Albany, through the 
Berkshire Hills to Albany; down the 
Hudson River (either night or day) 
to New York, returning via. Fall River 
Line steamer to Boston. From points 
west of Boston, October 7. Send 
for descriptive leaflet. 

A. S. Hanson, 
Gen. Pass. Agent, Boston. 



A Pretty Compliment 

The Eastern delegates to the re- 
cent Convention of the International 
League of Press Clubs at Atlantic 
City selected the New Jersey Central 
as the official route from New York. 
And in the last issue of the New York 
Insurance Journal the appreciation of 
the party was expressed as follows : 
"The New York delegation journeyed 
over the Central Railroad of New 
Jersey. The trip over this excellent 
road, which has been greatly improved 
in recent years, is most delightful, 
and the trains are equipped with 
every appliance for the comfort and 
convenience of passengers." 



"Here," said Benny's papa, vshow- 
ing the little fellow a coin, "is a penny 
three hundred years old. It was 
given to me when I was a little boy." 
"Gee!" ejaculated Benny. "Just 
think of any one being able to keep 
a penny as long as that without 
spending it!" 



THE OLD RELIABLE 

DIXON'S 



Carburet of 
Iron " 



Stove Polish. 

Never turns Red or Rusts your Stoves. 
Jos. Dixon Crucible Co., - Jersey City, N.J. 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine, 

xxvi 



Advertisements 



♦ 

9 

! 



DELICIOUS COFFEE 
EVERY DAY! 



You can have it wherever you are, if you use an 
" EXCERPTA " Coffee-pot. Made in one 
minute. Simply pour boiling water through 
the trap, and it's ready, — clear as wine, with a flavor 
surpassing anything you ever drank before. All aroma 
preserved, positively no odor of coffee until it is 
poured into the cup. 




If your dealer cannot supply you, send us his name, and I 
we will send you a copy of a famous picture and facts • 
about the " EXCERPTA." 

HOUSEHOLD HFO. CO., 790 Dun Building, 

Buffalo, N.Y. I 



Sawyer's 




CRYSTAL 

BLUE 

Gives a 

beautiful tint 
to linens, 
laces, and re- 
stores the 
color to goods 
that are worn 
and faded. 

Be •ur« 
that jou 
C«t 

SAWYER'S 

45 YEARS THE PEOPLE'S CHOICE. 




Sold in 
Sprinlding 
Top Bottles. 



When you write advertisers, please mention Thk Boston Cooking-School Magazine, 



Household Hints 




" Mama calls me the JELL-0 girl. She says 1 want it 
■ /oeat everyday. Now I am having lots of fun with the 
packages building a house for my doll." 

Order a package from your grocer to-day. Four Fruit 
Flavors; Lemon, Orange, Raspberry, Strawberry. 10c. 
The Genesee Pure Food Co., Le Roy, N.Y. 



EVERYBODY KNOWS 

. e . THAT ... 

FLEISCHMANN&GO.'S 
COMPRESSED YEAST 



HAKES THE 
BE5T BREAD 



Perhaps yoo don't know that it also 
makes the finest FANCY CAKE of 
numerous kinds* 

Send postal card to us at 70t Washing-- 
ton SUp N. ¥♦ City, mention Boston 
Cooking-School Magazine, and we will 
send yoa a copy of our book *' CHOICE 
RECIPES ''free of cost* 



A Marvellous Success 
Our readers have doubtless noted 
the advertisements of Karo Corn 
Syrup now running in our columns. 
It was a novel idea to put up the 
best table syrup in air-tight friction- 
top cans, and the instant demand 
for it has been astonishing. Over 
six and one-half million cans were 
ordered of the manufacturers in the 
first ninety days, and the sales are 
increasing every day. This is but 
another illustration of the fact that 
the American housekeeper is quick 
to recognize real merit. Mrs. Helen 
Armstrong, the well-known teacher 
of cookery, has written a booklet 
of recipes for the use of Karo Corn 
Syrup in all kinds of cooking and 
candy making, which will be sent free, 
when issued, to any one writing to 
the Com Products Company, New 
York or Chicago. If any of our 
readers have been unable to find 
Karo Com Syrup at the grocer's, 
it would be well to drop a postal to 
the Corn Products Company, giving 
the grocer's name and address. 



A little girl was sent out with some 
crumbs for the chickens; and, when 
she came in, she asked her mamma 
if she knew "how old the gate to the 
chicken-yard is." "No," said mam- 
ma. "I do," was the pleased reply. 
"It is just four years old, for it is 
just as high as I am !" 



ROSETTE IRONS 




^ J^ 50 cents, 

^ postage 20 cents 



These are the 
irons which 
lately have be- 
come so popu- 
lar among cooking teachers and in cooking 
Schools in all parts of the country. For full 
particulars and also catalogue of other Scandi- 
navian and German cake irons, please address 
ALFRED ANDRESEN & COMPANY 
Department BC, Minneapolis, Minn. 
Lady agents can sell dozens among friends. 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xxviii 



Advertisements 



t^ SHREDDED WsEAT 




BE ALERT where the welfare of -your chil- 
dren is concerned. If you want them to 
become vigorous manly men and strong wom- 
anly women safeguard their health wath the 
Natural Food — Shredded Whole Wheat Bisaiit 
— the only natural porous (digestible) food 
made from wheat. In this natural builder 
is contained the exact food counterpart of 
every element of the body and in the 
same proportion— that is why it is called the 
Natural Food. 

Shredded Whole Wheat Biscidt is crisp and 
compels thorough mastication which strength- 
ens the teeth and insures perfect digestion. 

Dr. Francis H. Plutnmer, Chelsea, Mass., says: 

" Your product has been in constant use in my family for a long time. It is a perfect food from a physiological standpoint 
and aside from that, it has the additional merit of being an appetizing addition to one's menu. I can especially commend 
it as a very desirable addition to the dietary of any family." 

Sold by A.11 Grocers. 
Send for the Vital Question Cook Book illustrated in colors FREE. It tells how to prepare Shredded Whole Wheat 
Biscuit in over 250 ways. 

A.cldress THe Natural Food Conipaiix» Niagara Falls, N. Y. 







HHH 



^Crg 



.WHITE 
r HOUSE 
COFFEE 



9% 



If the good wife will only tuck a can 

of " Wliite House" in her partner's 

I outing baggage, he will find the 

i pleasures of his trip very much en- 

, , V'l hanced, and will be grateful for her 

' thouglitfulness. At the same time 

- ^^ SHE can be using it at HOME and, 

by reflection, share his pleasure. 

Many grocers sell " White House": all of them 

ought to. Make YOUR grocer sell IT : he can't 

do better. We can alwavs tell you who DOES 

sell it. DWINELL-WRICrHT 'CO., Principal 

Coffee Eoasters, Boston and Chicago. 



Wlien you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 



Household Hints 




MOTHERS WANT 



USE 



that which will keep the baby's skin soft 
and free from skin diseases. 

OLIVE OIL 

is recognized as the one thing in toilet arti- 
cles to do it. 

Carmel iSoap 

is made wholly of 

Ptire, Siveet Olive Oil 

and made right where the olives grow, at 
Mount Carmel, Palestine. Nothing can be 
more necessary to the nursery than such a 
soap 

Sold by Drugg^ists and Leading Grocers. 

Imported by A. KLIPSTEIN & CO., 
J22 Pearl Street, New York. 



•••• THE •••• 

"KITCHEN AND HAND" 

• • • S\yr\r^ • • • 




For removing Tar, Pitch, Cement, Varnish, Paint, Axle 
Grease, Blacking, and all impurities from the hands, it Is 
unequaled, leaving the skin soft, white and smooth. 

Beware of Imitations. For Sale by all Grocers. 



CHAS. F. BATES & C0» 

Proprietors and Manufacturers, 

Office, 123 Oliver St., . - - Bostoa 

) 



Deviled Oysters 
Clean, drain, and slightly chop 
one pint of oysters. Melt four table- 
spoonfuls of butter; add four table- 
spoonfuls of flour and two-thirds a 
cup of milk. Cook two minutes, 
then add one-half a teaspoonful of 
salt, a few grains of Slade's cayenne, 
half a tablespoonful of fine-chopped 
parsley, the chopped oysters and the 
yolk of one egg slightly beaten, and 
one teaspoonful of lemon juice. Fill 
buttered shells two-thirds full of the 
mixture, cover with buttered crumbs, 
and brown in a hot oven twelve to 
fifteen minutes. 



He boiled the water that he drank, 

By rule he slept and ate ; 
He wore hygienic underclothes 

To get the bulge on fate. 

Thus science served him faithfully 
And made him microbe-proof, 

But yesterday he met defeat 
By falling from a roof. 

Chicago Record-Herald. 



FAMOUS ANNUAL 

$r Autumnal $C 
J Excursion u 

THURSDAY, OCTOBER 8, 1903 

A Special Fast Express on the 

BOSTON & ALBANY R. R. 

leaves the South Station at 8.30 a.m., passing through 
the most beautiful and prosperous section of Massa- 
chusetts to ALBANY, through the 

BERKSHIRE HILLS, 

thence, by either day or night boat, down the historic 
and beautiful 

HUDSON RIVER, 

passing the Catskills, West Point, and the Pali- 
sades, arriving in 

NEW YORK CITY 

at 6 A.M. or 6 p.m., Friday, October 9, depending on 
whether you take the night boat, October 8, or the day 
boat, October 9. Thence by the palatial steamers of the 

FALL RIVER LINE 

to Boston, arriving at 7 a.m., either Saturday or Sun- 
day. For further particulars address A. S. HANSON, 
General Passenger Agent. 



The Last. 



The Best. 



Wait for it. 



When you write advertisers, please mention The 

XXX 



Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 



$1.00 A YEAR 



lO CENTS A C^i-^ 



THE/ -boston: • 

CGDKIRG- SCHOOL 
MACAZI1SLE> 





OF cuMNAicr nSoie/nci> and 

0OMiy«TIC/ E/OOKOMIOSl 



VOL. VIII. NOVBMBE-R, 1903 



No. 4 




THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 
372 Boylston Street, Boston, Massachusetts 



ight, 1903, by the Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



Entered at Boaton Post-office as Gecond-class matter 



^^a^ 



^ 



Cocon, 



A healthy Stimulant. 
An invigorating Food. 
A delightful Beverage. 






Makes a success of any Soup^ 
Sauce, or Salad Dressing. . . . 

McILHENNY'S 
TABASCO. 

The perfection of flavor, the 
epitome of strength. Avoid 
cheap substitutes, and use only 
the original Mcllhenny's, made 
at New Iberia, Louisiana. 
Booklet containing recipes on 
request. 

E. McIlhenny's Son, 

New Iberia, Louisiana. 
Boston Office, 42 Central Street 



tH^»-fH^ 




FOOD MADE WITH 

Mrs. LINCOLN S 

BAKING POWDER 

I« finer griined, tweeter, more 
healthful, and keepi moiat 
longer than that raised bj the 
more rapid action •f powden 
conlmininf other adda. 



Grocers 



If 



AFTER MANY YEARS' E^CPEMENCC, 
AM CONVINOED THAT A PURE CREAM OF ^ 
TAfiTAR BAKIN& POWDER IS THE BEST^ 
OUICK LEAVEN INQ. AQENT, AND 18 At 
WHOLESOME FOOD ADJUNCT. 

I GUARANTEE THAT THIS POWDER, j 
PREPARED AFTER MY FORMUU, CON- 
TAINS ONLY THE HIGHEST POSSIBLE 
ORADE OF CREAM OF TARTAR AND BI- 
CARBONATE OF SODA, WITH THE SMAU- 
E8T PERCENTAGE OF CORN STARCH 
NECESSARY FOR ITS PERFECT KEEPING. 
AS LONG AS MY SIGNATURE-APPEARS 
ON THE«E LABELS, HOUSEKEEPER^ MAY; 
BE SURE THAT THIS FORMULA WILL BE 
KLLOWED IN THE MANUFACTURE OF 
THW BAKING POWBSft. 



7. ^tioc^du 



AOTMO* 9fTHg^'iSOSTOII eooK oaoK'* 
OF URS LINOOLN'* BANlM 

tooMrAwr. 



MiM f«i«iM whkMt Un, M^kj J. LiB«fa*t 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 




THANKSGIVING DINNER 

*' The harvest truly is plenteous''^ 

Clam Broth, Buttered Crackers, Browned 

Young Turkey, Roasted, Giblet Sauce 

Cranberry Sauce 

Sweet Potatoes Rice Croquettes Cauliflower 

Hollandaise Sauce 

Chicken Pie, Family Style 

Cider Apple Sauce Dressed Celery 

Pumpkin Pie Quince Jelly Tarts 



Burnt Almond Ice-cream 



\u. //. II' 




Raised Cake 



The 
Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



Vol. VIII. 



NOVEMBER. 



No. 4. 



Che San Yat^or Chinese Thanksgiving Day 

By Jessie Juliet Knox 

MAY the earth remain at rest, and the rivers return to their beds; 
May the myriad insects forget to be harmful, and trees and shrubs grow only in 
waste places." 



WHILE with us the last 
Thursday in November is 
annually proclaimed by the 
President to be Thanksgiving Day, 
with the Chinese the eighth day of 
the last month in the year is set apart 
by the emperor for the giving of thanks 
for all mercies received during the 
year. The foregoing quotation is the 
Chinese prayer used on this occasion. 
Their Thanksgiving differs from 
ours, however, in that they are not 
compelled to celebrate it upon the 
exact day. If business engagements 
or something equally important should 
make it inconvenient to have it on 
just that day, they may use some 
other day, as near this period as 
possible. Some of the poorer classes 
may not have the requisite money 
at that time, and must postpone it 
until they can procure enough for 
the purchasing of candles, incense, and 
food for the gods. 

From time immemorial it has been 
the Chinese custom for the emperor, at 
this time, to go to an altar at the south 
of the capital, and there offer sacrifices 
and give thanks for mercies bestowed 
during the year now closing, and ask 



the continued favor of the gods for 
the year to come. It was formerly 
the custom to pay especial honor to 
cats, for ridding them of field mice, 
and to tigers, for destroying wdld 
boars. These things are not now ob- 
served; but the emperor still gives 
thanks to heaven and earth, and 
goes through all the forms of wor- 
ship. The people throughout the 
Celestial Kingdom follow his exam- 
ple, and according to their means 
offer sacrifices to the different gods. 

It is most interesting to visit the 
large Chinatown of San Francisco, 
and catch a glimpse of the different 
ways in which they celebrate their 
thanksgiving. We look forward to 
our own Thanksgiving Day with 
pleasure, but our pleasure is nothing 
compared to the wild enjoyment of 
a Celestial anticipation. They seem 
to have so few pleasures that they 
appreciate to the full those that do 
fall to their lot; and, following the 
example of the emperor, all the 
Chinese people, in whatever part of 
the world they may be, joyfully cel- 
ebrate this occasion, offering sac- 
rifices to the dift'erent household 



i8o 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



gods and before the ancestral tablets. 
They also perform rites for the dis- 
pelling of evil spirits and influences. 

One may see their Thanksgiving 
processions marching through the 
streets, and, perhaps, the most inter- 
esting part of these is the Chinese 
dragon. It sometimes extends the 
length of a whole block, and is sup- 
ported by hundreds of Chinamen 
concealed beneath, which give it 
a peculiar squirming appearance. It 
appears very real at night, as, glisten- 
ing and shimmering, it squirms its 
hideous length through the narrow 
Oriental streets, constantly emitting 
flames from its cavernous mouth 
and eyes. The timid little Chinese 
children cling closer to their parents 
as it passes, for they believe it is really 
alive. To them it is no delusion, and 
they are too busily engaged in gaz- 
ing with slanting, horrified eyes at 
its great head and sinuous, sparkling 
body to notice the feet of the men who 
are carrying it. There are other feat- 
ures of these processions, among which 



are many Chinamen, dressed and 
painted in all kinds of grotesque 
ugliness; and their distortions of 
form and feature are anything but 
beautiful. There is great noise and 
confusion on these occasions, the beat- 
ing of the Chinese tom-tom, the 
harsh clashing of gongs, the shrill 
and unpleasant piping of the flageolet, 
and the shouts and screams of the 
people. All this seems most un- 
pleasant and inharmonious to our 
ears, but not so to the ear Celestial, 
for they know the cause of it all. 
They are making these hideous noises, 
to frighten away the evil spirits; 
and, the more noise they make, the 
sooner will the demons take their 
departure. 

Fireworks are also being constantly 
exploded, and add to the general 
din. By strict right these proces- 
sions pass through official residences, 
to clear them of evil spirits; but for 
other houses the street parade is 
considered sufficient. In some places 
a paper boat is carried in the proces- 




Buying Fish and Vegetables for Thanksgiving Offerings to the Gods 



Chinese Thanksgivingr Da^ 



i«i 




During Thanksgiving the Women are permitted to visit the Theatre 



sion, which is finally taken to some 
body of water, set on fire, and 
launched, as they think thus to 
destroy the demons, which have been 
collected in it while passing through 
the streets. 

After the demons have been ex- 
pelled, their return is prevented by 
pasting up peach charms at the doors 
of the houses. 

The term the Chinese use to denote 
this period means "divide year," and 
in their Thanksgiving feasts the wine 
they drink is called "dividing the 
year wine." They also divide the 
good things, which they have pro- 
vided, among the different gods, god- 
desses, and ancestral tablets. The 
female members of the family are 
so delighted with anything which 
relieves the dread monotony of their 
lives that they gladly hail the Thanks- 
giving season, — the guests and the 
feasting and the general air of fes- 



tivity that pervades the home. Al- 
though all the dainties are first placed 
before the gods, yet they are finally 
eaten by the family, and even more 
enjoyed than are our Thanksgiving 
turkey and its usual accompaniments. 
Their reason for taking this food from 
the gods and eating it themselves 
is that the gods have already taken 
the essence of it, and the choicest 
portion, and have left only the coarse 
part for them. Thus they console 
themselves, and give themselves up 
to the joy of wining and dining on 
this glad occasion. 

They will place a table of vegetable 
foods before the gods who are supposed 
to prefer a vegetable diet and a table 
of animal food before those who pre- 
fer meat. They begin their Thanks- 
giving by lighting incense and candles 
before the different images. The 
head of the family comes forward, 
and bows before each image, or class 



l82 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



of images, three times. He then burns 
mock money of various kinds before 
each one. They make this money 
in large sheets, and use great quan- 
tities of it on different occasions of 
worship. He who kneels and bows 
speaks in a low tone, giving thanks 
both for himself and family. Some- 
times he says nothing, and then the 
thanks are implied. He then places 
a table of meats before the ancestral 
tablets, as they hold a most impor- 
tant place in their worship. He 
here goes through a similar form of 
worship, thanking his departed an- 
cestors for the favors they have 
vouchsafed during the past year, and 
'^ntreating their good will for the 
future. The wine which the\ frive 



^^ 




My Lady Celestial in Thanksgiving Attire 



to ancestors is always hot, as that is 
supposed to bring good luck to pos- 
terity. The wine they present to 
gods and goddesses is always cold. 

When the family are very wealthy, 
they offer a goose, the head of a hog, 
and a very large fish, and other meats, 
as a sacrifice to heaven and earth. 
Heaven and earth are the highest di- 
vinities worshipped by them, and so 
they make this an especial thanksgiv- 
ing. For this sacrifice they place on a 
table some boiled rice, ten kinds of veg- 
etables, ten cups of wine, ten cups of 
tea, two large red candles, and three 
sticks of incense. They then place 
a branch of cedar or flowers on the 
rice, and near it ten pairs of chop- 
sticks, two large sheets of mock money, 
and an almanac. They scatter dried 
fruit over the rice, and place a bowl 
of loose-skinned oranges on the table. 
The sacrifice tables, with offerings of 
various kinds, are familiar to all those 
who have visited the large Chinatown 
of San Francisco. Fireworks are 
then exploded, and the head of the 
family kneels down, and gives thanks, 
holding the lighted punk sticks in 
his hand the while, and offers up a 
petition that during the year to 
come his family may be exempt from 
sickness and trouble. He then places 
the lighted incense sticks in the cen- 
ser. If the family be poor, they can- 
not afford to worship so lavishly, 
and sometimes they have only one 
or two tables of food. Incense is 
within the reach of all, however. 
It is placed in a censer on one of the 
tables, and kept burning continuously. 
It is also burned in little bowls of 
earth on the street in front of every 
door. A great many, in order to pay 
a vow or to earn the approval of the 
gods, repair to a joss-house and burn 
incense, as well as make their private 
offerings at home. 

This Chinese Thanksgiving custom 



Chinese Thanksgiving Day 



183 



would indicate that the people of 
the Orient have a sincere feeling of 
graitude, in return for any favors 
they may have received; and, if one 
has an opportunity of mingling with 
them during this happy occasion, 



he may learn much of their ways. 
As we become better acquainted with 
the race, we feel more lenient towards 
them, and are led to see that they 
have many virtues which are worthy 
of emulation. 




Man and Wife offering Thanksgiving Sacrifice to Heaven and Earth 



THE inconveniences and the petty annoyances, the pains and the 
sorrows, do we ever forget them? Indeed no; we grumble and 
groan continually. The blue sky and the sunshine, the evcryda}^ 
mercies and the wonderful ble:sings that we accept as a matter of course, do 
we remember to rejoice because of them? Only too seldom. On this one day, 
do let us be sincerely and expressedly thankful. — Anon. 



Benjamin Franklin's Punch-strainer 



By Julia Davis Chandler 



THIS quaint silver punch- 
strainer is preserved in the 
rooms of the Historical So- 
ciety of Delaware: it was made, long 
ago, from the first silver dollar earned 
by Ben j amin 
Franklin, as a 
boy in Boston. 

He was ap- 
prenticed there 
to an older 
brother, so this 
dollar may have 
been his first 
allowance of 
money, or else 
the first that he 
earned from the 
popular songs 
which he wrote 
on current 
events, and 
printed on his 
brother's press. 

A fellow- 
worker, named 
James Parker, 
who afterward 
became an edi- 
tor of the Post 
Boy in New 
York, exchanged 

dollars with Franklin, for luck and 
as a bond of friendship. What 
Franklin did with his friend's, Par- 
ker's, dollar we do not know; 
but Parker kept Franklin's dollar, 
and of it made this little punch- 
strainer. It descended to his accom- 
plished daughter, the wife of Gun- 
ning Bedford, of Delaware. 

The Bedfords entertained hand- 
somely at their country home, "lyom- 




bardy," and at their city home, in 
Wilmington. Doubtless, this little 
piece of old silver must have been 
shown often to their many distin- 
guished guests as a souvenir of the 
great Franklin. 

Gunning Bed- 
ford was a noted 
man, a friend, 
from his earliest 
college days at 
Princeton, of 
James Madison. 
He met the lat- 
ter ably in dis- 
cussion at the 
Annapolis Con- 
vention, which 
was convened to 
frame the first 
Constitution of 
the United 
States. He was 
aide-de-camp to 
Washington, and 
the pistols which 
Washington 
gave him, when 
he sent him on 
a dangerous mis- 
sion to Trenton, 
his daughter 
JNIiss Henrietta Jane Bedford, pre- 
sented, together with the little punch- 
strainer, to the Historical Society of 
Delaware. 

That only two generations of owners 
should intervene between 1871 and 
Franklin's time seems almost incredi- 
ble; but the fact is well verified, and 
this odd bit of silver is a treasured 
possession of the Historical Society 
at Wilmington, Del. 



Glass Houses and Stones 



'Translated from the German of Richard Leander 
From The Christian Register^ by permission 



PEOPLE who live in glass 
houses shouldn't throw stones. 
Yes, that is a very sensible 
saying. Of course, you do not live 
in a glass house, and you never throw- 
stones ; but, when you hear somebody 
fussing and scolding and finding fault 
with somebody else, just smile to 
yourself, and remember this story of 
the king and queen who learned a 
better way to manage. 

The king of Macronia, who had 
been enjoying for some time the very 
best years of his life, had just got up, 
and was sitting undressed on the 
chair near his bed. In front of him 
stood the lord high chamberlain, and 
held out the king's stockings, one 
of which had a great hole in the heel. 
Now, although he had carefully twisted 
the stocking so that the king might 
not- notice the big hole, and although 
the king usually considered handsome 
shoes much more important than 
whole stockings, yet this time the 
hole failed to escape the royal gaze. 
Horrified, the king snatched the stock- 
ing from the hand of the chamberlain, 
put his forefinger in the hole so that 
it came through as far as the knuckle, 
and then said with a sigh: — 

"Oh, what's the good of being king 
if I can't have a queen! Don't you 
think it would be a good idea to marry 
a wife?" 

"Your majesty," answered the 
chamberlain, "that is a magnificent 
idea! It is the very thought that 
would have undoubtedly occurred to 
my own humble mind, if I had not 
felt that your majesty would cer- 
tainly deign to light on it to-day for 
himself!" 

"All right, then!" the king replied. 



"But do you suppose that I can 
easily find a wife who will suit me?" 

"Rubbish!" said the chamberlain. 
"You can get ten if you like!" 

"But don't forget that my claims 
are not small. If a princess is going 
to please me, she must be both wise 
and beautiful! And then here is 
another point which I consider ex- 
tremely important. You know how 
fond I am of gingerbread cookies. In 
my entire kingdom, would you be- 
lieve it, there isn't a single person 
who knows how to bake them, — bake 
them just exactly right, that is, not 
too hard and not too soft, but just 
crispy. Oh, yes, my wife must cer- 
tainly know how to bake gingerbread 
cookies!" 

When the chamberlain heard this, 
he was so shocked that he nearly fell 
over; but he collected himself as 
quickly as he could, and said, "Oh, 
a king like your majesty will surely 
find a princess who knows how to 
bake gingerbread cookies." 

"All right, let's get about it, then!" 
said the' king. And that very day 
he and the lord high chamberlain 
began a round of visits to all the 
different neighbors who had daugh- 
ters to give away. But there were 
only three princesses to be found w^ho 
were both wise and beautiful, and 
not one of the three could bake gin- 
gerbread cookies. 

"No, I really can't bake ginger- 
bread cookies," confessed the first 
princess, when the king asked her 
about it, "but I can bake the love- 
liest little almond cakes! Wouldn't 
that do?" 

"No," replied the king, "I've set 
my heart on gingerbread cookies." 

The second princess, when he ex- 



i86 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



plained matters to her, made up a 
naughty face, and said very crossly: 
"Don't bother me with such non- 
sense! There aren't any princesses 
who can bake gingerbread cookies!" 

But the king had the hardest time 
with the third princess, although She 
was really the wisest and most beau- 
tiful. She didn't even let him get 
so far as to ask her the question; 
for, before he had a chance, she asked 
him if he knew how to play the Jew's- 
harp, and, when he said he didn't, 
she refused him immediately, though 
she said she was really very sorry. 
Otherwise he pleased her very well; 
but she just loved to hear the jew's- 
harp, and she had made up her mind 
not to marry any man who couldn't 
play on it. 

Then the king had to drive home 
again with his lord high chamberlain; 
and, when he got out of the carriage, 
he said, quite discouraged, "And all 
that for nothing ! ' ' 

But the king simply had to have 
a queen ; and so, after a time, he called 
the lord high chamberlain, and ex- 
plained to him that he had given up 
hoping to find a wife who could bake 
gingerbread cookies, and had decided 
to marry the princess he visited first. 
"That is the one who knows how 
to bake little almond cakes," he added. 
"Go and ask her if she will be my 
wife." 

The next day the lord high cham- 
berlain came back, and told the king 
that the princess was no more to be 
had. She had married the king of 
the land where the capers grow. 

"Well, then go to the second prin- 
cess!" But again the lord high cham- 
berlain came home with nothing ac- 
complished. The old king had said 
he was really awfully sorry, but his 
daughter had died, and he could not 
marry her to the king. 

Then the king thought and thought 



for a long time ; but, because he simply 
must have a queen, he finally com- 
manded the lord high chamberlain 
to go again to the third princess. 
Perhaps she had changed her mind. 
The lord high chamberlain had to 
obey, though he didn't want to go, 
and his wife told him it wouldn't do 
a bit of good. The king waited 
anxiously for his return; for he re- 
membered the question about the 
Jew's -harp, and the remembrance made 
him cross. 

The third princess, however, re- 
ceived the minister very kindly, and 
told him that she had really quite 
decided not to take any man who 
could not play on the jew's-harp; 
but, after all, dreams are vanity, and 
especially the dreams of youth! She 
knew that her desire would never be 
fulfilled; and, since the king pleased 
her, othenvise, very much, she was 
willing to marry him. 

Then the lord high chamberlain 
drove back as fast as his horses could 
go; and the king embraced him and 
rewarded him properly. Gay flags 
were set fluttering in the city, gar- 
lands were hung across the street from 
one house to another, and the wedding 
was celebrated in such magnificent 
fashion that the people talked of 
nothing else for a whole fortnight. 

The king and the young queen 
lived in peace and contentment for 
an entire year. The king forgot all 
about the gingerbread cookies, and 
the queen forgot all about the jew's- 
harps. One day, however, the king 
got out the wrong side of the bed, 
and everything went criss-cross. It 
rained all day long; the royal globe 
fell down, and the little cross on top 
broke off ; then came the court painter, 
who brought with him the new map 
of the kingdom, and, when the king 
looked at it, there the country was 
painted red instead of blue, as he 



Glass Houses and Stones 



187 



had expressly ordered; and, finally, 
the queen had a headache. 

Then they quarrelled for the first 
time. Why they quarrelled they 
didn't know themselyes- the next 
day, or, if they did know, at least 
they wouldn't tell. In short, the 
king was growly, and the queen was 
snappy, and managed always to get 
the last word. After they quarrelled 
quite a long time, the queen shrugged 
her shoulders, and said : — 

"I should think you would hush 
up, and stop fussing about every- 
thing you happen to see. Why, you 
yourself can't eyen play on the jew's- 
harp." 

Hardly had the words slipi^ed out 
of her mouth before the king inter- 
rupted her, and answered bitterly: 
"H'm! And you can't even bake 
gingerbread cookies!" 

Then for the first time the .queen 
hadn't a word to say for herself, and 
was quite still; and they both went 
out of the room without speaking 
another word. The queen sat down 
in the corner of the sofa in her own 
room, and cried, and thought: "If 
you aren't a silly thing! Where was 
your sense? You couldn't have said 
anything stupider than that!" 

But the king walked up and down 
in his room, and rubbed his hands, 
and said: "It is downright good luck 
that my wife cannot bake gingerbread 
cookies! What in the world could I 
have answered her else, when she 
twitted me because I cannot play 
the jew's-harp!" 

After he had repeated that three 



or four times, he kept feeling better 
and better. He began to whistle his 
favorite tune, looked at the great 
picture of the queen which hung up 
in his room, climbed up on a chair 
to wipe off a cobweb which hung 
right over the queen's nose, and said 
finally : — 

"vShe was quite right to be cross, 
the dear little woman! I'll just go 
to see what she is about!" 

Then he went out to the long hall 
on which all the rooms opened; but, 
because this day everything went 
criss-cross, the servant had forgotten 
to light the lights, although it was 
eight o'clock at night and as dark as 
pitch. 

Then the king stretched out his 
hands so as not to bump his head, 
and felt cautiously along the wall. 
Suddenly he felt something soft. 

"Who is there?" he exclaimed. 

"It is I," answered the queen. 

"What do you want, my precious?" 

"I want to ask your pardon," re- 
plied the queen, "because I hurt your 
feelings." 

"No need of that," said the king; 
and he put his arm around her. "I 
am more to blame than you, and 
we'll forget all about it. But there 
are two things which we will forbid 
to be mentioned in our kingdom on 
pain of death, jew's-harps and" — 

"Gingerbread cookies!" interrupted 
the queen, with a laugh, as she 
secretly wiped away in the dark 
two or three tears from her pretty 
eyes. 

And that is the end of the story. 



I 



F we will take the good we find, asking no questions, we shall have heaping 
measures. The great gifts are not got by analysis. — Carlyle. 



Housekeeping in the South Sea Islands 

Crude Devices and Furnishings of the Natives 

By an ex-Soldier 



YOUR readers may find inter- 
est in a narrative from per- 
sonal experiences in the new 
possessions of the United States. 
Your correspondent visited the Phil- 
ippine Islands about three years ago, 
and has been living in the different 
islands of the archipelago since. I 
first lived on Panay Island, then on 
Luzon, and finally on Mindanao. In 
all of these islands the handiwork 
of the American wife and her influ- 
ence may be seen. Still, one can 
scarcely find a well-furnished house, 
even among those occupied by the 
Americans, for the reason that the 
proper furnishings are almost unob- 
tainable. I will relate some of my 
experiences in this line. 

Upon arriving on Panay Island, 
we secured a little nipa shack, about 
ten by ten, and used the floor for a 
bed, after the good old-fashioned 
custom of the natives. My friend 
had his wife with him, and a part of 
the one room was divided off with 
a blanket for her. No water was 
available except at a river near by. 
No furniture was to be had at any 
price. We got native carpenters to 
make tables, chairs, etc. ; but they 
did not appear to take to work grace- 
fully. A stove cannot be purchased 
anywhere except in Manila. Some 
one could reap rich profits in hand- 
ling stoves for the islands, also wash- 
tubs, scrubbing-boards, kitchen uten- 
sils, and devices of all descriptions for 
the housekeeper. We went to Min- 
danao Island, and found conditions 
about as bad. After three or more 
years on the island, however, we 



have gathered together a fair num- 
ber of household goods. Still, the 
cooking is done by natives with the 
old style cooking devices. Possi- 
bly, the annexed illustrations will 
assist in giving an idea of the con- 
ditions under which one is obliged 
to keep house on the islands. Of 
course, almost anything in the house- 
hold line may be found in Manila 
and possibly in Iloilo; but these two 
cities are only two out of about five 
hundred cities, towns, and barrios, 
which are at present occupied by 
American troops. 




In the Lifie of Brushes. — I was 
much struck with the appearance of 
the native brooms. The broom 
shown in Figure i is made by select- 
ing a piece of bamboo of right propor- 
tions, and splitting the end so as to 
make a brush-like condition. 

The native can sweep out your 
apartments with this crude affair 
in quick order. I also observed 



Housekeeping In the South Sea Islands 



189 



brooms made as shown in Figure 2, by 
cutting a handle of stout wood of the 
right size, about which is bound the 
fuzzy collection of pieces of under- 
growth forming the broom. These 
brooms sell in the market for a few 
cents each. In Figure 3 is a more 
advanced form of sweeping device, 
made with a cross end, as shown, 
into which are fitted the brush-stuffs 
for sweeping. ' As to dust-pans, the 
native housewife, and in fact most of 
the American and other housewives 
of the country, use the type of dust- 
pan sketched in Figure 4, in which 
an oval piece of bamboo is secured 
to a wood handle. 

Cooking. — But you will be most 
interested in the singular styles of 
crude cooking contrivances which 
one sees in the islands. The richer 
classes — and there are not many of 
these — ^have secured stoves from civ- 
ilized countries, while the great ma- 
jority of the people in the islands 
use only a few stones, arranged like h, b, 
Figure 5. The dish holding the food 
for cooking is placed upon the stones, 
and the fire made below. A cocoa- 
nut dish is used for holding water. 
The more improved form of stove, 
used by the better classes of the people 




in the country, is presented in Fig- 
ure 6. Stone-work is built up, as 
shown, on top of which is placed 
a tunnel-shaped affair, c, this being 
of masonry or cement. The interior 
is used for cooking purposes. There 
is a pipe projecting at d for carrying 
off the smoke. The fire is built below, 
and wood is the main fuel, the coal 
of the Philippines being of the lignite 
grade. 

Tables. — The original native does 
not concern himself verv much about 




^^ ^ 



"i^V s 



the tables and related furnishings 
of his home. He either requires all 
of his family to sit upon the floor 
about a common dish and eat with 
the fingers, or he provides a table 
with short legs, like that in Figure 7, 
about which all sit. No chairs are 
used. The common dish is in the 
middle of the table at e, and ah dip 
into this. 

In the Way of Flowers. — The Filipino 
or the Moros housewife is not with- 
out a taste for floral decorations. I saw 
quite a number of very well made up 
displays of flowers. The American 
housewives, who are in the islands, 
are setting good examples for the 
natives in this line of work. We show 
in Figure 8 one of the odd patterns 



190 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



of native flower-pots. No other sorts 
are available in most places, though 
there are native potteries, in which 
jars are made for water and pipes 
for sewerage purposes. The specimen 
shown is a hollowed cocoanut shell, 
filled with earth and planted with 
a flower and hung to the woodwork 
of the interior of the house. Some- 
times the plan of the flower utensil 
is like that shown in Figure 9, con- 
sisting of a tube of bamboo arranged 
to contain earth and a growing plant. 
Very Devout. — The natives of both 
the northern and southern sections 
of the islands are very religious, and 




one notices that, although the house- 
wife may have no useful articles of 
furniture, she is always provided with 
a temple of worship. There is a little 
altar in nearly all of the homes, 
before which praises are offered at 
vesper time every evening. Lights are 
usually kept burning at these idols. 
Figure 10 will give an idea of the 
ideal house altar. A hard-wood or 
stone-carved head-piece is mounted 
in a frame and set off with candles, 
which are kept lighted most of the 
time. 

Solid Wood Chairs. — In Mindanao 
Island, where the richest of ebony 
woods, rare mahogany species, and 
wood fibres of the best descriptions 
are obtainable for the cutting, the 



native houses are freely furnished 
with excellently made furniture, 
from the standpoint of stock alone. 
For instance, in one home I saw a 
mahogany chair cut out from a solid 
piece, as in Figure 11. Then I saw 
another house fru-nished with a table 
made from the valuable ebony wood 




n^// 



^LCf JZ 



of Mindanao. This table is shown 
in Figure 12. The natives have no 
idea of the value of these rich woods, 
because there is no market for the im- 
mense forest at present. 




ny /d- 



This is illustrated in the chest 
furnishings which one sees in the 
houses. These chests are used in- 
stead of wardrobes. Every inmate 
of the native house usually owns 
a chest. His or her goods are kept 
securely locked from the other mem- 
bers of the family. But the costly 
woods in the chests are worthy 



Housekeeping in the South Sea Islands 



of special mention. Many returning 
soldiers have purchased chests of 
this order, and taken the same home 
with them. The best chests are made 
of camphor-wood, for insects will 
not eat into this material, as the odor 
of camphor is too much for them. 
Black walnut, ebony, mahogany, and 
similar lines of hard-wood, chests are 
also bought up and sent to America. 
The carvings on some of these chests 
are often excellent, and represent 
much labor. 




^y /& 



The Laundrying Process. — The op- 
eration of scouring clothes in the 
islands, as performed by the native 
housewife, is one of the last straws 
that discourages the American house- 
keeper, who happens to be thrown 
among the natives The American 
housewife hires a native washerman 
or washerwoman and sets him or her 
to work. The native takes the clothes 
to the river, or well, and with but very 
little soap proceeds to beat the hfe 
out of the garments on a stone, 
with a paddle g, as in Figure 14, 
in which the garment in process of 
being beaten is marked /. Cold hard 
water is dashed over the article, and 



a sort of a washing process follows. 
There is no boiling. The goods come 
out greasy and oily. The American 
housewife tries all manner of schemes 
to get her native to do proper wash- 
ing, by boiling the clothes and scrub- 
bing in a tub on a wash-board. But 
she fails, save when standing 'over 
the native. As soon as her back is 
turned, the native discards the water 
with its soap-suds, the scrubbing- 
board is dispensed with, and the 
cold water, the rock, and the paddle 
are used until missis returns. We 
show in Figure 15 one of the styles 
of native irons. There is a hollow 
in the upper portion, and this hollow, 
is filled with a charcoal-like fuel which 
is burned, making the base of the 
iron good and hot, so that smoothing 
and ironing are easily done. 

Starch is used by the natives, but 
in a singular way, unless you keep 
a close watch. One lot of my 
goods came back with handkerchiefs 
starched, while the shirt bosoms were 
not. A native can be hired to do 
washing and chores about your house 
for about five dollars in gold per 
month. As to the manner of carry- 
ing water, your native goes to the 
jungle and cuts a bamboo tube like 
that in Figure 16. This holds about 
ten gallons of water, which he gets at 
the river, a spring, or a well. 

There will be a big market in the is- 
lands very soon for American household 
goods. The natives are fast learning 
the benefits of having improved fur- 
nishings: they are waiting only the 
opportunity to buy, and as yet the 
goods are not available. 



How to make First-class Dairy Butter 

By Mrs. E. E. Rockwood 



DAIRY butter is made on the 
farm, and is so called to dis- 
tinguish it from butter made 
at public creameries. 

Nearly every farmer's wife makes 
butter, and disposes of the surplus 
not consumed in the family; and yet 
a really fine article is rarely found. 
The reason for this lies partly in the 
fact that conveniences, proper uten- 
sils, etc., are often lacking; yet it 
must be confessed that much of the 
fault lies with the maker. 

Three things primarily control the 
quality of butter, wherever it is made. 
These are cleanliness, temperature, 
and proper time of working. Clean- 
liness must begin at the stable. No 
amount of after-treatment will en- 
tirely overcome the effects of negli- 
gence in keeping the milk free from 
contact with contaminating odors. 
Deposits of foreign matter from the 
flanks and udders of the cows are 
sure to leave results which the most 
skilful butter-maker cannot wholly 
overcome. 

Among native-born Americans very 
little milking is now done by women. 
This work very properly belongs to 
men. Yet there is little doubt that, 
as a rule, women would be more 
cleanly, more painstaking and gentle 
in the handling of dairy cows than 
are men. 

Milking seems a very simple oper- 
ation to the novice who watches 
the streams as these are drawn from 
the cow's udder into the pail. * Deftly, 
quickly, one quarter after another 
is emptied of its contents, the last 
drops being obtained by "stripping"; 
i.e., grasping the teat between thumb 
and finger of the right hand, and 



forcing the milk out by drawing the 
hand quickly down and off, and re- 
peating until the last drop has been 
drawn. This milk, by the way, is 
richer in butter fat than the first 
drawn; and neglect in stripping thor- 
oughly is to lose much of the cream. 

There are in vogue, at the present 
time, three methods of separating 
cream from milk. 

One is the old-fashioned way of 
setting the milk in open, shallow pans 
to stand from twenty-four to thirty- 
six hours, during which time the 
cream rises to the surface, whence 
it can be removed with a skimmer. 

Another is the so-called deep set- 
ting, or Cooley, system. This con- 
sists in straining the milk fresh from 
the cow into deep tin cans, which 
are surrounded with ice water. The 
sudden chilling of the milk forces 
the" cream to the top in from six to 
twelve hours. Of these two gravity 
systems the latter is far preferable, 
and it has superseded the open-pan 
system almost entirely. The mod- 
ern cabinet creamery, in some form 
or other, is found in a large majority 
of farm dairies at the present day. 
It is a boon to the women of the farm, 
doing away entirely with the labo- 
rious w'ashing and scalding of milk- 
pans and heavy earthen crocks. 

The third and most modern method 
of securing cream is by the use of 
a centrifugal machine called a sepa- 
rator. A number of different makes, 
essentially the same in operation 
and results, are upon the market, 
at prices ranging from $50 upward. 
The mechanism of one of these is 
somewhat complex. The warm milk is 
poured into a receiving-tank, whence 



How to make First-class Dairy Butter 



193 



it is led into a rapidly revolving steel 
bowl, thence down and out through 
a spout. The cream is separated 
by centrifugal force, and issues from 
another spout, the whole process 
occupying but a short tinie. Com- 
paratively few of these machines are 
in use in farm dairies, though the 
number is increasing. A herd of at 
least ten cows is called for, to permit 
its use from an economical viewpoint. 

Ripening, or souring, the cream is 
an important step in the manufacture 
of butter. If too ripe, the product 
suffers loss of flavor; if not ripe enough, 
the highest aroma and flavor will 
not be secured. Hence it can readily 
be seen that great care, and not a 
little skill, is necessary on the part 
of the butter-maker, that an exact 
quantity of acidity may be devel- 
oped in ripening. 

There is no fixed rule for ripening 
cream. Owing to differing condi- 
tions, this would be well-nigh im- 
possible. Bacterial action varies 
with the temperature maintained, be- 
ing hastened or delayed accordingly. 
In summer the germs multiply much 
more rapidly than in winter. In 
cold weather artificial inoculation is 
often resorted to, by means of a starter. 
This starter consists of sour milk, 
specially prepared, or of buttermilk 
from a previous churning. To pre- 
pare it, milk, preferably from a cow 
fresh in lactation, is placed in a steril- 
ized glass jar, and the cover is screwed 
on. It is then held at a temper- 
ature of about 70° Fahr. until it 
is thick, or clabbered. One quart 
of this will suffice for ten gallons of 
sweet cream. When introduced into 
the body of cream intended for 
churning, the whole should be warmed 
to about 65° to 70°, and held there 
from twelve to twenty-four hours, 
when the proper degree of acidity 
will have been developed. 



There are certain tests known to 
expert makers, which enable one to 
decide when the ripening is com- 
plete. Some of these deal with 
chemicals, but here are two or three 
for the average operator. When the 
cream is in the right condition for 
churning, the unbroken surface pre- 
sents a peculiar glossy, satiny ap- 
pearance, readily recognized by the 
experienced eye. Another test con- 
sists in dipping a cup or ladle into 
the cream. If it be ripe, a thick 
coating of cream will adhere to the 
outside of the cup. Upon pouring 
the cream back, the last drops should 
make tiny indentations, or ' ' pits, ' ' 
upon the surface. 

As soon as cream has reached this 
stage, it should be churned; for delay 
means deterioration. When cream 
becomes separated, or "wheyed off," 
to use a common term, it has passed 
the point where it will make fine 
butter. Both quality and quantity 
will be lowered. 

The passing of the old-fashioned 
dash-churn has almost entirely been 
accomplished. Rarely now do we 
find one among the better and more 
pretentious dairies. The barrel-churn 
is most popular at the present time. 
It has no paddles nor dashers to -in- 
terfere with the perfect grain of the 
butter, and it is very easily cleansed 
after use. 

Cream, when ready for the churn, 
should be tested with a dairy ther- 
mometer, to ascertain its temperature. 
As stated at the beginning of this 
article, temperature plays an impor- 
tant part in the manufacture of 
butter; and to this end a good dairy 
thermometer is indispensable. Since 
the cost of this useful little instrument 
is but twenty-five cents, surely no 
butter-maker need be without one. In 
determining the proper temperature, 
something depends upon the breed 



194 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



of the cows. Guernseys and Jerseys 
make butter of a firmer body than 
other breeds, and the cream may be 
churned at a higher temperature. 
The obiect is to bring the butter into 
granules at sufficiently low point 
so that they may not adhere, but 
remain entirely separate, one from 
another, until after washing and salt- 
ing. This makes granular butter, so 
highly prized by connoisseurs, which 
receive top scores in dairy contests. 
In summer 58° to 60° will be found 
to give correct results: in winter 
two to four de'grees higher will be 
advisable. There is so much indi- 
viduality in cows that no one rule 
fits all cases. Each operator must 
study existing conditions. No two 
herds are exactly alike. Time and 
season must also be taken into con- 
sideration. All this calls for the high- 
est skill on the part of the butter- 
maker, in order to attain success. 

Cream from cows fresh in lactation 
yields more readily to the concussion 
caused by the motion of the churn 
than does that of cows long in lacta- 
tion. In other words, it comes quicker. 
Sometimes the milk from a single 
animal inoculates the cream of the 
whole herd, so that the butter will 
not separate. This is often true of 
a farrow cow. In such a case the 
evil is remedied by leaving out the 
milk from that particular animal. 
Ordinarily, the churning should occupy 
thirty to forty minutes. 

When the tiny granules of butter 
begin to appear, the closest atten- 
tion must be given the contents 
of the churn; and, as soon as the 
glass in the cover begins to clear, it 
is time to draw off the buttermilk. 
A hair sieve may be employed to 
catch floating particles of butter 
that escape. 

After the buttermilk has been re- 
moved, the butter should be rinsed 



by pouring into the churn a pailful 
of cold water, to which a handful 
of salt has been added. Replace the 
cover, and revolve the chum a few 
times very slowly. Draw off the 
water, and rinse again in the same 
way, observing care that a suffi- 
ciently low temperature is maintained, 
to prevent the granules from mass- 
ing. Drain the butter, which at 
this stage should present the ap- 
pearance of so many yellow kernels 
of wheat. Artificial coloring will not 
be necessary with butter breeds, 
except for a few months in midwinter, 
since these animals yield a more highly 
colored product naturally than others. 
After the butter is well drained, the salt 
is added by scattering it evenly over 
the granules while still in the churn. 
An ounce and a half to the pound 
will be none too much for average 
tastes. Some like more, others less, 
than this quantity. 

After adding the salt, and cutting 
it lightly in with a ladle, the churn 
is closed and very slowly revolved, 
allowing the contents - to fall from 
end to end for several minutes, when 
it will be found that the butter has 
formed into lumps or balls. It can 
then be placed upon a worker or in a 
butter-bowl for finishing. 

This final step in the process, the 
working, is very important. If in- 
sufficiently done, the butter will pre- 
sent a mottled appearance, due to 
the uneven distribution of the salt. 
If worked too much, the grain will 
be injured. To know exactly when 
the right condition is reached and 
then to stop is the aim of the opera- 
tor. 

Perfectly worked granular butter, 
when broken (not cut) apart, pre- 
sents a distinctly pebbly appearance, 
something like that of a piece 
of broken steel. This shows that 
the grain of the butter is perfect. 



Thanksgiving Decorations 



95 



The granules should be plainly visi- 
ble to the naked eye. 

Consumers are wont to complain 
at the high price of good butter. 
Yet, when it is understood that of 
milk from the average cow,, outside 
the distinctively dairy breeds, ten to 



twelve quarts are required to make 
a pound of finished product, to say 
nothing of the amount of labor in- 
volved, one can readily see that it 
ought to sell for a fairly good price, 
if even a small profit go to the pro- 
ducer. 



Thanksgiving Decorations 

By Mrs. E. M. Lucas 



YELLOW is the appropriate 
color for this day of feasting, 
and chrysanthemums are the 
flowers. The glory and endless va- 
riety in size, together with the last- 
ing quality of the blooms, render 
these blossoms popalar, as long as 
they last, for decorative schemes of 
all sorts. They lend themselves beau- 
tifully to large receptacles for room 
decoration, on the buffet, in the hall, 
or in chance corners, giving charm- 
ing dashes of color intermingled with 
greenery. It was once the style to 
behead the flowers, and arrange them 
in a low dish in a stubby mound. 
Nowadays they are scorned imless 
they crown a long stem; and the 
longer, the better. No flat effects 
are used except with those flowers 
which positively refuse to grow in 
any other way. Pansies have to 
be arranged in low dishes, and vio- 
lets likewise; but chrv^santhemums 
are cut with long stems. The curling 
over lip of the vase has much to do 
with the grace of the flowers. It 
gives an outward and downward 
cur^^e to the outside flowers, — a curve 
that is especially desirable for the 
centre-piece of the dinner table. 

A novel and inexpensive decora- 
tion for the table was evolved with a 



big head of cabbage and a dozen 
long-stemmed chrysanthemtmis. The 
outside, defective leaves were re- 
moved, and the remaining outer 
leaves pressed down and opened gently, 
so as not to break them. When they 
were out flat, the Arm yellow heart 
was stabbed through several times 
with a sharp knife until its outlines 
were lost, then the yellow blooms 
were placed, at random, all over the 
cabbage, with sufficient greenery to 
vary them prettily. The outer leaves 
of the cabbage formed a charming 
background, curled slightly, like a 
green basket. 

If chrysanthemums are not to 
be had, use the bright yellow gaillar- 
dias. 

Effective decorations are made with 
pumpkins, golden yellow gaillardia, 
and trails of ivy. Cut one of the 
pumpkins into the form of a handled 
basket, fill with the bright flowers and 
ivy leaves. Other pumpkins are cut 
in two, hollowed out, and heaped with 
yellow apples and green grapes, en- 
twined with ivy leaves. The tall 
candelabra rest on mats of ivy leaves, 
and ivy is wreathed about them, also; 
and yellow shades give a mellow 
light. Little paper pumpkins hold 
the bonbons, and green leaf dishes 



96 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



are used for the olives and nuts, 
salted and glaced. 

Birch-bark, asparagus ferns, and 
gayly tinted autumn leaves was the 
fancy of one housewife. The leaves 
were mounted on a fine wire, and 
mingled with the green of the aspar- 
agus fern. In the centre stood the 
pretty birch-bark basket, filled with 
autumn leaves and vines, which ran 
over the ends of the basket, reach- 
ing out on either side — a lovely 
network of green and soft yellow with 
hints of red — to the tall vases of as- 
paragus vine. The table was lighted 
in a charming manner. A very large 
hoop was suspended from the chan- 
delier by four stout cords. All 
around the edge of the hoop candles 
had been fastened. This was accom- 
plished by driving a stout wire nail 
through the hoop, then heating it and 
thrusting the candle over it. The 
hoop and strings were wreathed with 
asparagus ferns and tinted leaves. 
Little cups of yellow crepe paper 
were fastened at the base of the 
candles, to catch the drip. This hung 
midway between the table and the 
chandelier. Leaf-shaped dishes in 
pale yellow and green tinted china 
held the olives and salted nuts; and 



the name cards were Httle canoes 
of birch-bark, holding a spray of 
asparagus fern, fastened in place with, 
a yellow ribbon, on which the name 
was lettered with green ink. 

A pretty centre-piece is a huge plat- 
ter heaped with pale green grapes, 
russet apples, and amber pears, in- 
termingled with greenery. About this 
arrange ears of corn, the pale yellow 
husks drawn back and made to stand 
out like the petals of flowers. Standing 
guard about this are four candle- 
sticks, made from the long round 
boxes in which electric-light mantles 
come, covered with yellow crepe paper 
and crowned with lily-shaped shades 
made of cojn-husks. The name cards 
added a decorative touch to the table, 
and were made in this way: Cut a 
triangle from stiff paper, about ten 
inches long. Fold the three points 
toward the centre, so the points touch 
the opposite sides, then fold the points 
back half their length, thus forming 
a shallow box about one-fourth an inch 
deep. At the three sides punch holes, 
and tie with ribbon so it will retain 
its form. On one point write the 
name, on another the date, and on 
the third some form of greeting. 
Fill the box with salted almonds. 



Novel Fads in Children's Parties 

By Carrie May Ashton 



A NOVEL and original entertain- 
ment for little folks is a Cradle 
^ Party. It is especially suited 
to little girls, though some boys might 
enjoy it quite as much. 

The centre-piece for the table is 
a small cradle, fashioned of heavy 
white cardboard and trimmed with 
gold paper, which is used as a binding 



around the edge. It is filled with 
blue forget-me-nots. A tin}^ cradle 
with the name of the different guests 
answers for the place cards, and 
contains salted nuts. 

The souvenirs of the occasion are 
larger cradles, with mattresses, sheets, 
blankets, spreads, and pillows, each 
containing a baby doll dressed in 



Novel Fads in Children's Parties 



197 



long gown. The menu for such a 
gathering should be simple, but whole- 
some. Below is given a suitable 

menu : — 

Cream of Celery Soup. 
Bread Sticks. 



Creamed Potatoes. 

Chicken Sandwiches. 

Currant Jelly. 



Ice-cream. 
Angel's Food. 



Ice-cream is always more enjoya- 
ble to children, if served in fancy ^ 
moulds. 

At a recent birthday celebration 
the best part of the feast were the 
little yellow chicks, which caused 
many ejaculations of delight w^hen 
they appeared. 

At another gathering of little folk 
the maple-sugar log houses were a 
source of great delight, and took the 
place of candy that is so often served. 

A unique birthday celebration re- 
cently given originated with the fond 
mother, and proved the most thor- 
oughly enjoyable children's party of 
the season. 

Each child, as he arrived, was given 
a small fancy-colored bag, which 
contained ten pieces of tin money. 

An older boy acted as merchant, 
and a variety of inexpensive toys 
were found on the counter for sale. 
There were whistles without number, 
perfume sachets, cheap jewelry, balls, 
and a variety of other toys, besides 
candy. 

One lad, who had been requested 
not to eat any candy by his solicitous 
mother, as he had but recently re- 
covered from a bilious attack, was 
told by the hostess that he could take 
it home, and remarked that he did not 
care for candy, when there were so 
many pretty things for sale. 



Children's activities must be di- 
rected, especially at a social gathering, 
and then^they are sure to enjoy them- 
selves. 

A Wheel-barrow Party is another 
novelty for small boys. Who would 
not enjoy one? Arrange this similar 
to the Cradle Party, with a tiny 
wheel-barrow marking the different 
places and a larger one for the centre- 
piece, filled with flowers. 

A wheel- barrow race will afford a 
pleasant diversion during the after- 
noon, with inexpensive prizes, the 
wheel-barrows used for the contest 
being retained as souvenirs of the 
occasion. 

Kite-flying parties are always en- 
joyable affairs, if they are given in 
an open space where there are few or, 
better still, no trees. 

Soap-bubble parties lose none of 
their popularity. Cover the tables, 
upon which the bubbles are to be 
blown, with pieces of flannel or a 
blanket. Use tin horns or ordinary 
clay pipes for blowing. The day be- 
fore the party shave fine one ounce 
of white castile soap, and mix with 
three -fourths an ounce of glycerine, 
and bottle tightly. Add this to just 
enough water to make good suds. 

At a delightful carnival recently 
given by a small club of children 
the main feature of the day was a 
Tom Thumb wedding, which was 
most effectively carried out. 

The costumes were made for the 
occasion, many of them real works 
of art. The clergyman in his long 
robe was most impressive. 

Paper doll parties, where each little 
girl is requested to bring her family 
of paper dolls, afford pleasant pas- 
time. A variety of fancy paper is 
provided, and each guest is expected 
to fashion a gown for one of her dolls: 
Prizes are awarded for the best work. 



198 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



THE BOSTON COOKING- 
SCHOOL MAGAZINE 

OF 

Culinary Science and Domestic Economics. 
Janet McKenzie Hill, Editor. 

published ten times a year, 

Official Journal of the Boston Cook- 
ing-School. 

Publication Office : 
372 BoYLSTON Street, Boston, Mass. 

Subscription, $1.00 per Year. Single Copies, ioc. 
Advertising Rates furnished on Application. 

TO SUBSCRIBERS 

The Boston Cooking-School Magazine is sent 
until ordered discontinued, and arrearages 
are paid. 

The date stamped on the wrapper is the 
date on which your subscription expires: it 
is, also, an acknowledgment that a subscrip- 
tion, or a renewal of the same, has been re- 
ceived. 

Please renew on receipt of the colored 
blank enclosed for this purpose. 

When sending notice to renew subscription 
or change address, please give the old address 
as well as the new. 

In referring to an original entry, we must 
know the name as it was formerly given, to- 
gether with the Post-office, County, State, 
Post-office Box, or Street Number. 

Entered at Boston Post-office as second-class matter. 



The world treats you as well as you 
treat it. 

The man at his work! — there is 
nothing finer. I have seen men 
homely, uncouth, and awkward when 
"dressed up," who were superb when 
at work. 

I thank thee, Lord, that I am as 
other men are. 

If you have not reached the point 
where you perceive ^that two proposi- 
tions, exactly opposed to each other, 
may both be true, you have yet some- 
thing to learn. — The Philistine. 



SCHOOLS AND HOUSEKEEPING 

A WRITER in the Boston Her- 
ald makes pointed reference to 
a matter of growing impor- 
tance, as follows : — 

"London is falling into line with 
Boston's well-tried idea of a training 
school for housekeeping. The school 
of housekeeping, which accomplished 
such good work here, sowed its seed, 
for in all the leading cities in the 
United States the system has been 
heard from; and now in London they 
are going to try solving the domestic 
problem in much the same way, by 
the formation of a club, to afford a 
means of training young women for 
domestic service. Good luck ! Heaven 
knows there is need of instruction 
and encouragement for mistress and 
maid. Home housekeeping has 
reached the danger point. An hon- 
orable calling has almost been lost 
sight of in the malady which has 
struck at all classes of labor. It is 
a contagious disease; but its germ, 
like all other germs, will be found 
some day, and its cure will be then 
effected. At present some women 
with brains are striving to bring about 
better relations between those who 
pay and those who serve, and the 
first step has been to educate the lat- 
ter by instructing the former in what 
constitutes the performance of house- 
hold duty." 

The school of housekeeping re- 
ferred to in the foregoing para- 
graph has now been merged in Sim- 
mons College, an institution to be 
devoted, it is hoped, to the in- 
dustrial training of young women 
along the broadest lines. What the 
final results shall be are yet to be 
seen. But, surely, a thoroughly well- 
equipped industrial training school 
for young women is a significant 
landmark in educational thought and 
progress. 



Editorials 



199 



The most serious charge that has 
been made against the schools of 
the past Hes in the statement that 
they have tended to educate boys 
and girls above their destined calling 
in life. No sooner have' children 
crossed the threshold of learning than 
they have been urged and incited 
to rise, if possible, above the masses, 
and make themselves the teachers 
and leaders of men. To cherish low 
aims, to be sure, is debasing to youth, 
while the pursuit of lofty ideals is 
ennobling, indeed. ^ At the same time 
all cannot teach. The vast majority- 
of mankind must be content to work 
with the hands. The question is. 
Will not true nobility assert itself 
in any calling? "Are all prophets? 
are all teachers'*" asks the apostle. 
"But covet earnestly the best gifts; 
and yet show I unto you a more ex- 
cellent way." 

In these modern days it is coming 
to be pretty well understood that 
protracted mental work is neither 
entirely wholesome nor conducive to 
longevity. The intellectual giant is 
apt to be either a crank or a fanatic. 
On the other hand, exclusive physical 
effort is inimical to the highest pros- 
perity and happiness. In the train- 
ing of youth to-day the harmonious 
combination of physical and mental 
activity would seem to be in accord 
with the light of reason and the ex- 
perience of the race. Hence the 
goal sought for in the twentieth- cen- 
tury training schools may well be 
the cultivated mind and the skilful 
hand. 

The trait in the personality of our 
Chief Magistrate that impresses the 
observer most is "the combination 
of simplicity and dignity. The sound 
mind in a healthy body is decidedly 
'the real thing' when it comes to the 
office of President." This fact has 
become so fairly luminous to the 



nation that it is not likely S'oon to be 
forgotten. 

HEALTH AND THANKSGIVING 

OUR annual national Thanks- 
giving Day comes this month. 
This festival has become dis- 
tinguished above others for family 
gatherings, and few there be in this 
broad land who cannot find some- 
thing in life to be thankful for. In 
a general sense, we can think of 
nothing more desirable for which to 
render thanks than good health. Pos- 
sessed of this, one can face life's fort- 
unes or life's ills with cheerfulness and 
hope. And health is not necessarily 
a gift from above, save in the sense 
of natural endowment; for its main- 
tenance and preservation, at least, each 
individual, who has reached maturity, 
is responsible. Health is the result- 
ant of ways or habits more than of 
fortune or station in life. Espe- 
cially is it true that 

"111 habits gather by unseen degrees, 
As brooks make rivers, rivers run to seas." 

The means of attaining the desired 
end are to be sought for in diet and 
exercise, intelligently studied and ju- 
diciously practiced. Some one has 
said: "Too much emphasis has been 
placed on wealth, and, on the other 
hand, too much on poverty. That 
man is rich enough who has his daily 
bread for mind and body." The 
Cooking School Magazine wishes for 
everybody a cheerful and happy 
Thanksgiving Day. 



THE WASTE OF WEALTH 

A WRITER in the London DaV/y 
Ne^us presents facts which show 
that 30 per cent, of the popu- 
lation of Great Britain are insufficiently 
fed. Their income is not enough to 
buy the dearer kinds of food which are 



200 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



necessaty to well-developed physical 
life, and they do not know how 
to make the best use of that which 
is within their means. They grow 
up from a half-starved childhood 
to be under-sized and inefficient 
men and women. Yet the wealth 
of the United Kingdom, as shown 
by Sir Robert Giffen in a paper 
read to the British Association re- 
cently, is nearly $75,000,000,000, and 
the annual income of the people 
who live in the British Isles is $8,- 
750,000,000. These 42,000,000 spend 
as much for food and drink alone as 
the whole 300,000,000 of India, and 
the annual income of their invest- 
ments in India and the other Brit- 
ish colonies amounts to about $107 
for every man, woman, and child in 
England, Ireland, and vScotland. More 
money is spent for tobacco alone than 
for education, the churches, and lit- 
erature; and the drink-bill is far 
larger. If the money that is worse 
than wasted were spent wisely to 
ameliorate poverty and educate the 
people, the nation would be vastly 
stronger. Sir Robert says that the 
prosperity of the. rich has brought 
an ominous decline in hardihood and 
the higher ambitions, and that Great 
Britain is the most extravagant na- 
tion in the world. But probably as 
thorough an investigation of condi- 
tions in the United States would show 
that in this respect we are rivalling 
the mother country. — Christian World. 

THE CAUSE OF COOKERY- 
FAILING. 

THE reason that cooking so 
fails of its purpose is that 
its practice is far below the 
rank of other human industries, and 
therefore often more of a hindrance 
than a help. If man's clothes were 
made as badly as his bread is, or 
man's houses constructed with as 



little success as his dinners, there 
would be the same complaint raised 
in regard to tailoring and build- 
ing as is now heard over cooking, 
and numbers of short-sighted re- 
formers would clarnor for a return 
to the simpler living of the coat of 
skins and the hollow tree. 

It is a disgraceful position for hu- 
manity to turn tail in the great march 
forward ; to return to the kindergarten, 
because the university is too com- 
plex; to "want to go home," because 
the journey is long and hard. We 
wish to answer questions, not beg 
them; to conquer our difficulties, not 
yearn for savagery, because civiliza- 
tion is more laborious.— //e/en Cajuphell 

NO doubt many of our sub- 
scribers and readers have 
friends who would be pleased 
to receive specimen copies of the 
Cooking-School Magazine. If you 
will kindly send us the addresses of 
these, we will take pleasure in mailing 
each of them a specimen copy of a 
recent issue. We think your friends 
will be glad to be thus remembered, 
and we shall appreciate the effort 
on your part in sending the names. 

We believe there are thousands of 
housekeepers in every State in the 
Union who want a good, reliable, and 
trustworthy culinary publication: we 
are desirous that all these may have 
an opportunity to examine carefully 
and test the contents of the Cooking- 
School Magazine. 

TiHE contents of this issue of 
the Cooking-school Magazine 
are varied and timely. The 
December number will* be of excep- 
tional interest and value. Among 
other notable articles. Chef Meyer of 
Union Club, New York, contributes a 
paper on " Carving and Serving for 
Seventy-five College Students/' 




Seasonable Recipes 



TN all recipes where flour is used, unless otherwise stated, the flour is measured after sifting 
-'■once. When flour is measured by cups, the cup is filled with a spoon, and a level cupful is 
meant. A tablespoonful or a teaspoonful of any designated material is a level spoonful of such 
material. 



Cream-of-Corn Soup (Canned 
Corn) 

Pass a can of corn through a meat- 
chopper. Add two shces of onion, a 
sprig of parsley, and two cups of 
water. Let simmer fifteen minutes, 
then pass through a sieve, pressing 
out all the liquid and pulp possible. 
Melt three tablespoonfuls of butter, 
cook in this three tablespoonfuls of 
flour, half a teaspoonful of salt, and 
a dash of black pepper. Stir and 
cook, while adding gradually two cups 
of milk. Let boil after all the milk 
is added, then stir in the corn pulp 
and liquid. Add more seasoning, if 
needed, also, if at hand, the yolks of 
two eggs, beaten and diluted with half 
a cup or more of cream. The soup 
will curdle, if it be boiled after the 
eggs are added. 

Oyster Soup 
Pour a cup of cold water over two 
quarts of oysters, look over, one by 



one, to remove bits of shell. vStrain 
the liquid through a cheese-cloth, add 
a pint of chicken liquor, and heat to 
the boiling-boint. Then add the 
oysters, and again heat to the boiling- 
point. Skim out the oysters, and add 
with the strained liquid to a soup 
made as follows: Cook two-thirds a 
cup of sifted flour, a teaspoonful of 
salt with a dash of black pepper, and 
half a cup of butter, and stir into 
three pints of milk scalded with two 
slices of onion, two stalks of celery, 
a sprig of parsley, and a bay leaf. 
Stir and cook imtil smoothly thickened, 
then stir occasionally for twenty min- 
utes, and strain over the oysters and 
liquor. Finish with half a cup of hot 
cream and two tablespoonfuls of but- 
ter, stirred in at the last in little bits. 
The recipe will serve from ten to fif- 
teen persons. 

Cream-of-Chestnut Soup 
Shell and blanch two pounds of 



202 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



chestnuts. Cook in boiling water until 
tender, then drain and pound in a 
mortar, adding, meanwhile, a pint of 




Two Grape Baskets used as Centrep 
Pressed Autumn Leaves 

hot chicken liquor. Pass through a 
sieve, and return to the fire, to simmer 
gently for an hour, adding, as is 
needed, more broth or hot water. 
Make a sauce of a quart of milk and 
half a cup, each, of butter and flour, 
with salt and pepper; add the chest- 
nut mixture, and strain into a pint 
of hot cream. If the 
soup be too thick, di- 
lute with broth. Add 
salt and pepper, as 
needed. 



Boston Baked Beans 
Let one quart of pea 
beans stand in cold 
water over night. In 
the morning drain in a 
colander, letting plenty 
of fresh water run 
through them. Put 
over the fire covered 
with cold water, to 
which a teaspoonful of 
cooking soda has been 



added, bring quickly to the boiling- 
point, let boil five minutes, then 
drain and rinse again. Put half the 
beans in an earthen 
bean-pot. Pour boil- 
ing water over half a 
pound of salt pork, and 
score the rind, to indi- 
cate its separation into 
slices an half-inch thick. 
Put the pork above the 
beans in the pot, and 
turn in the remainder 
of the beans. Mix two 
teaspoonf uls of dry 
mustard, two teaspoon- 
fuls of salt, and two 
tablespoonfuls of mo- 
lasses with a quart of 
boiling water, and pour 
over the beans and 
pork. Add more water, 
as needed, to cover well 
the beans. Put on the cover, and 
bake about eight hours in a moderate 
oven. Keep the beans just covered 
with water and the cover on the pot 
until the last hour of cooking, then 
remove the cover, to dry out the 
beans and brown the pork, which 
should be drawn to the surface for 




Boston Baked Beans served from Bean Pot 



Seasonable Recipes 



203 



this purpose. When properly cooked, 
each bean should be tender, yet 
whole. The beans should be moist 
with a small quantity 
o f thickened liquid 
through them. The 
size of the bean-pot 
should accord with the 
quantity of beans 
cooked ; a large quanti- 
ty can be cooked more 
successfully than a small 
quantity. The beans 
may be sent to the 
table in the bean-pot or 
transferred to another 
dish. 

Boston Baked Bean Croquettes 
Press cold baked beans through a 
ricer or sieve. To a pint add three 
or four drops of tabasco sauce, two 
or three tablespoonfuls of tomato 
sauce, puree or catsup, as is needed, 
to moisten the mixture, and if liked, 
a teaspoonful of grated horseradish 
mixed with vinegar. Shape into small 
balls, with a teaspoonful of whole 
baked beans in the centre of each. 
Roll in sifted bread crumbs, then cover 



with beaten egg, and again roll in 
crumbs. Fry in deep fat, drain on 
soft paper, and ser\^e at once. For 




Fruit in Birch Bark Receptacle 

a hors d\mtvre make the balls the size 
of a small English walnut, seasoning 
more highly than in the recipe. Serve 
on paper doilies, one or two as a ser- 
vice. Pass olives, or small gherkins, 
and tiny brown bread sandwiches, at 
the same time. 

Chestnut Stuffing 
With a sharp knife cut a short slit 
in the shells of a quart of chestnuts. 
Cook one minute in boiling water, 




Roast Turkey, Garnish, Sausage Links and Chestnut' Croquettes 



204 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



drain, and let become dry. Add two 
teaspoonfuls of butter, and stir and 
shake over the fire, or in the oven, 




Fruit with Mat of Pressed Sumach Leaves 



three or four minutes, or until the 
shells have absorbed the butter. Then 
remove the shell and skin together. 
Keep the nuts covered with a cloth 
in the mean time, as they shell more 
easily when hot. Cook the chestnuts 
until tender in boiling, salted water, 
drain, and pass through a ricer. Add 
one half-a cup of butter, stirred into 
two cups of crumbs from the centre 
of a stale loaf of bread, and a tea- 
spoonful or more of salt and pepper, 
as suits the taste. When thor- 
oughly mixed, the dressing is 
ready for use. 

Flaky Pastry 
Pass through a sieve, to- 
gether, three and one-half cups 
of sifted flour, a teaspoonful of 
salt, and half a teaspoonful of 
baking-powder. With the tips 
of the fingers or a knife work 
in half a cup (four ounces) of 
shortening, other than butter, 
then moisten to a dough with cold 
water (about half a cup). Turn onto 
a board very lightly floured, and roll 
into a very thin rectangular sheet. 



Have ready half a cup (four ounces) 
of butter, worked and washed in cold 
water until it is in a smooth and 
flexible condition, then 
pat out the water and 
shape into a thin rec- 
tangular piece less than 
one -third the length of 
the paste. Lay the 
butter on the paste, 
turn one side evenly 
over it, and over this 
turn the other side. 
Fold one end over and 
the other end under 
the paste enclosing the 
butter, keeping the 
ends even, pat gently 
with the rofling-pin, 
to break up the large 
bubbles of enclosed air, then roll into 
a long rectangular strip. Fold evenly 
to make three layers, turn half-way 
round, and again roll into a long 
strip. Fold, turn, and roll out once 
or twice more, and the paste is ready 
to use. When the paste is properly 
made, this process is not a long one. 
The celerity with which the work 
can be done depends largely upon 
the condition of the paste at the first 
rolling out. This condition is de- 




Flaky Pastry, showing Butter folded in 

termined by the quantity of water 
used in mixing the paste. The paste 
should be soft enough to roll out 
easily and yet not be sticky. 



Seasonable Recipes 



205 



Chicken-and-Oyster Pies dish an instant in hot water to the 

In individual dishes arrange lay- top of the dish, then invert on the 
ers of fillets of cold cooked chicken serving"-dish. 
and cleaned oysters, and 
sprinkle with salt and 
pepper. Add tiny bits of 
butter, here and there, and 
cover with pieces of flaky 
pastry cut to the size of 
the dishes. Score in the 
centre, to let out the 
steam, and decorate with 
small figures cut from the 
trimmings of the paste. 
Brush the lower surface 
of these pieces with cold 
water before {setting them 
in place. Bake about fif- 
teen minutes. If a more 
juicy pie be desired, add 
one or two tablespoonfuls of chicken 
broth or oyster liquor. Serve hot 
from the oven. If any remain to 
be served cold, dissolve one-fourth 
a package of gelatine, softened in 
one-fourth a cup of cold water, in 
a cup and a half of hot and well- 
seasoned chicken liquor, and turn 




Waffle-and-P 



Preserve Shortcake 



Waffles with Peach Preserves 
Sift together one cup and a half of 
flour, two level teaspoonfuls of bak- 
ing-powder, and one-fourth a tea- 
spoonful of salt. Beat the yolks of 
two eggs, add one cup of milk, and 
stir into the dry ingredients with 
one-fourth a cup of melted butter. 




Preparing Apples stuffed with Dates 



into the pies through a small funnel Lastly, add the whites of two eggs, 

inserted at the opening in the top of beaten dry. Bake on a hot, well- 

the crust. To serve, loosen the crust oiled waffle iron. Keep the first two 

from the edge of the dish, insert the bakings hot in the oven, while the 



2o6 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



other is being baked. Do not pile with a Httle hot, sugar- and- water 
one above the other, lest their crisp- syrup. Serve with the morning cereal, 
ness be lost. Put together as a short- or as a dessert dish at luncheon or 

dinner, with cream or 
milk. 



Maple Charlotte 

Russe 
Bake sponge cake 
in patent, individual, 
Charlott e-Ru s s e 
moulds. When cold, 
fill with a cup of double 
cream, mixed with a 
scant fourth a cup of 
maple syrup or grated 
maple sugar and beaten 
solid. Caramel syrup 
(sugar cooked to a cara- 
mel, diluted with water 
and boiled to a thick syrup) and one- 
fourth a teaspoonful of vanilla extract 
give a very agreeable flavor, somewhat 
similar to maple. Any preferred sponge 
cake mixture, or a gold cake mixture, 
may be used. Let stand two or 
three minutes after baking, then re- 
move at once from the moulds. The 
cake cannot be removed in good 
shape, if allowed to cool in the moulds. 




Maple Charlotte Russe 



cake 



with old-fashioned peach pre- 
serves. If served from the side, in- 
stead of from the table, place half 
a peach with plenty of syrup on each 
quarter section of waffle, and pass as 
soon as baked. 

Apples Stuffed with Dates and 

Baked 
Select tart apples, core neatly. 




Patent Charlotte Russe Tins with Cakes 



pare, and fill the cavities with stoned 
dates. Bake until tender throughout 
in a hot oven, basting once or twice 



Jellied Apples and Orange 
Pare, quarter, and core five apples. 
Make a syrup of one cup and a half, 



Seasonable Recipes 



207 



each, of sugar and water, and the 
thin yellow rind of one orange. In 
this syrup cook the pieces of apple, 
a few at a time, 
until tender, tak- 
ing care to keep 
them whole. As 
the apples become 
tender, lift them 
with a skimmer to 
a plate, to drain. 
While the apples 
are cooking, let a 
scant half a two- 
ounce package of 
gelatine soften in a 
cup of cold water. 
Over this pour the 
apple syrup, strain 
the liquid, and 
measure it. There 
should now be two cups and a half. 
(Add water, if necessar^y to make this 
quantity.) Have ready a mould, 
standing in ice and water. Put in 
a few spoonfuls of the liquid, and ar- 
range slices of apple on the bottom 



of orange, and, if at hand, a bit of 
freshly candied peel. Continue until 
the mould is full. When ready to 




Jellied Apples and Orange 

serve, turn from the mould, and dec- 
orate with whipped cream and candied 
orange peel. Sw^eeten and flavor the 
cream before whipping. For a cup of 
cream use a scant fourth a cup of sugar 
and a few drops of vanilla extract. 




Thanksgiving Pudding 



of the mould in the jelly. Turn in 
a little syrup, then add more slices 
of apple, with, here and there, a slice 



Thanksgiving Pudding 
Let three-fourths a cup, each, of 
cracker and bread crumbs soak in 



208 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



two quarts of milk about an hour. 
Mix one cup of brown sugar, half 
a cup of melted butter, or four 
ounces of fine-chopped suet, one 
pound of seeded raisins, half a 
pound of sliced citron, one tea- 
spoonful cinnamon, half a teaspoon- 
ful of mace, and two teaspoonfuls of 
salt, and stir into the first mixture. 
Also stir in four beaten eggs. Bake 
in a slow oven four hours. vStir 
several times during the first hour, 



Squash Timbales 
To one cup of cooked squash pressed 
through a ricer or sieve add two beaten 
eggs, three tablespoonfuls of cream or 
milk, two tablespoonfuls of melted 
butter, half a teaspoonful of salt, and 
a dash of black pepper. Mix thor- 
oughly, and turn into buttered tim- 
bale moulds, fitted with rounds of 
paper. Bake in a pan of hot water 
in the oven, or, covered, on the top of 
the range, until the centres are firm. 




For Nuts or Bon-bons 



to keep the fruit from settling to the 
bottom of the dish. Serve with a 
hot liquid sauce. 

Liquid Sauce 
Cook one cup, each, of sugar and 
water, until it will spin a thread. Beat 
the yolks of three eggs, and pour the 
syrup over them in a fine stream, 
beating constantly meanwhile. Then 
add half a cup of cream, a few grains 
of salt, and such fiavoring as is de- 
sired, — a teaspo(jnful of vanilla or 
two tablespoonfuls of brandy, — and 
beat until thick. 



Serve turned from the moulds. A 
cream sauce may accompany this 
dish, but it is superfluous. 

Spaghetti (contributed by a Sub- 
scriber — a Man) 
Chop fine and separately three small 
onions and two thin slices of salt pork. 
Cook these together in a frying-pan 
imtil nicely browned, then add half a 
pound of raw beef (top of the round), 
chopped fine, one-fourth a teaspoon- 
ful of allspice, and one-fourth a tea- 
spoonful of salt. Dissolve one-fourth 
a cup of tomato paste (found at Italian 



Seasonable Recipes 



209 



stores, the same quantity of well- 
reduced tomato puree may be used) in 
half a cup of claret wine, and add to 
the meat mixture. Have ready a 
scant quarter pound of hot, -cooked 
spaghetti, sprinkled with Parmesan 
cheese (use from two tablespoonfuls 
to three-fourths a cup of cheese ac- 
cording to taste), and over it pour 
the cooked mixture. Lift the spa- 
ghetti with fork and spoon, until the 
mixture is evenly mixed through it, 
then serve at once. 

Chestnuts Moulded in Aspic Jelly 
Let the liquid in which a fowl was 
cooked simmer with two slices of 
onion, a stalk of celery, a sprig of 
parsley, a bay leaf, and four pepper- 
corns an hour or until well reduced. 
vStrain and set aside. When cold, re- 
move the fat, add, for a pint, half a 
package, of gelatine, softened in a 
cup of cold water, salt and paprika, 
the thin yellow rind of one-fourth a 
lemon, and the slightly beaten white 
of one egg with the crushed shells of 
several, if at hand. Mix together 
thoroughly, then heat slowly to the 
boiling-point, stirring constan tl}^ 
meanwhile, then let simmer ten min- 
utes. Skim and strain through two 
folds of cheese-cloth. Put a table- 
spoonful into each of six or eight 
small moulds, standing in ice and 
water. Arrange slices of cooked chest- 
nuts, to form a design on the jelly. 
Keep in place with a few drops of 
liquid aspic, then lay in a whole cooked 
chestnut, nicely blanched. Hold in 
place with a few drops of aspic. When 
set, fill the mould with aspic. Serve, 
turned from the moulds, with lettuce 
and mayonnaise dressing. 

Celery (for Diabetic Patients) 
Cut trimmed stalks of well-bleached 

celery into pieces an inch in length. 

Let simmer in water to cover until 



tender and the water is reduced some- 
what. For a pint of celery cream 
one-fourth a cup of butter, beat in 
the 3^olks of two or three eggs and half 
a teaspoonful of salt, and stir into the 
hot liquid. Let cook, without boiling, 
until thickened slightly, then serve at 
once. Cream may be used in place of 
all or a part of the butter. 

Boston Brown Bread Ice-cream 
To each quart of ice-cream, when 
frozen, stir in one cup of sifted Boston 
brown bread crumbs, and let stand 
an hour or longer, to ripen. No flavor- 
ing need be used in such cream; but 
almond, vanilla, caramel, or maple, 
all harmonize with the crumbs. The 
bread may first be dried or not, as 
convenient. 

Steamed Corn-meal Pudding 
Chop half a pound of suet very 
fine. Sift over this two cups of corn- 
meal (yellow, granulated preferred), 
one cup of flour, and one teaspoonful, 
each, of salt and soda. Mix thor- 
oughly, then stir in one cup, each, 
of sweet milk and molasses and one 
cup of seeded raisins. Turn into 
a two- quart mould, thoroughly but- 
tered, and cover and steam four 
hours. Serve hot with hard sauce 
or with liquid brandy sauce, if ap- 
proved. A hard sauce, in which grated 
maple sugar is used, is especially ap- 
propriate at this season. Whipped 
cream, sweetened before whipping 
with grated maple sugar, will furnish 
another sauce for this pudding. In 
the illustration a hard sauce, made 
with grated maple sugar, is piped 
onto slices of lemon. 



The flavor of a duck is much im- 
proved by roasting with an orange and 
an onion in the body. An excellent 
accompaniment for duck is a brown 
sauce with half a jar of orange mar- 
malade added. — Exchange. 



Thanksgiving Menus 

S2Eiti) innocent peace is (JTeres glatiHentti. Efjen lio gou culttbators of t\}t soil offer up boirs for 
perpetual peace. <E l)umfale offering, if onlg it be pure, is pleasing to gracious (JTeres. — Ovid. 

Thanksgiving Dinners 

/. Institution 

Oyster Stew, Olives or Pickles. 

Roast Turkey, Bread Stuffing, Giblet Sauce, Cranberry Jelly. 

Whole Onions, Boiled and Buttered. 

Individual Portions of Squash Baked in the Shell. Mashed Potatoes. 

Apple-and-Celery Salad, French Dressing. 

Pumpkin Pie. Thanksgiving Pudding, Liquid Sauce. 

Raisins. Nuts. Grapes. Coffee. 



//. School 

Boston Baked Bean Croquettes. Boston Brown Bread Sandwiches. Olives. 

Consomme Royal. Oyster Soup. 

Roast Turkey, Potato Stuffing, Giblet Sauce, Cranberry Jelly. 

Escalloped Oysters. 

Onions in Cream Sauce. Candied Sweet Potatoes. Mashed Turnips. 

Orange-and-Celery Salad. 

Hot Apple Pie. Individual Maple Charlotte Russe. 

Maple Sugar Bonbons. Nuts. Raisins. Grapes. Coffee. 



///. Farm Home in Country 

Cream of Corn Soup, Bread Sticks. 
Roast Turkey, Bread Stuffing, Sausage Cakes. 
Cranberry Sauce. Cider Apple Sauce. 
Boiled and Mashed Squash. Whole Boiled Onions in Cream. Escalloped Potatoes. 

Chicken Pie. Celery. 

Pumpkin Pie. Apple Pie. Cheese. 

Boston Brown Bread Ice-cream. Nuts. Apples. Raisins. Coffee. 



IV. Private Home in Town 

Clam Cocktails. Boston Brown Bread Sandwiches. 

Roast Turkey, Chestnut Stuffing, Cranberry Sauce. 

Squash Timbales. Escalloped Onions. Mashed Potatoes. 

Individual Chicken-and-Oyster Pies. Celery-and-Nut Salad. 

Apple-and-Orange Jelly, Whipped Cream. Nuts. Raisins. Grapes. Coffee. 



V. Elaborate Home Dinner 
Cream of Oyster Soup, Man-Olas. Fried Fillets of Fish, Tomato Sauce. 

Roast Turkey, Giblet Gravy (Garnish: Mushroom Croquettes and Pork Sausage). 

Cranberry Jelly. 
Mashed Potatoes. Small Onions Stuffed with Bread Crumbs and Nuts, Baked. 

Creamed Celery. 

Roast Partridge, Currant Jelly. Orange-and-Chicory Salad. 

Tarts with Strawberry Preserves and Meringue. Squash Pie. 

Caramel Ice-cream, Hot Maple Sauce. Nuts. Bonbons. Grapes. Coffee. 



Chafing-dish Supper 

Sardine Eclairs, Olives. Turkey Newberg. Rolls. 

Mayonnaise of Apples and Celery. 

Nut Ice-cream. Salted Almonds. Maple Bonbons. 



Evening Party [Tw.enty-five Guests) 

Fried Scallops. Cabbage-and-Celery Salad. Graham Bread-and-Butter Sandwiches. 

Cold Roast Turkey, Sliced Thin. Buttered Rolls. Currant or Cranberry Jelly. 

Mayonnaise of Lettuce and Cooked Chestnuts in Aspic Sandwiches. 

Apple Mousse. Assorted Cakes. Coffee. 



Menus for One Week in November 

l^ealtfj anti gooH tiigesttcn are tiepcnticnt: objcctttclg, ttpon appetising flabor trne to skilful prepa= 
ration anti gooU cooking; anU, suftjectibelg, to a rf)eerful anti ijarmonious state of minti on tf}e part of 
t\)t eater. — fanes. 



*=Bre^kf3Lsi 

Ralston Breakfast Food with Nuts, 

Sugar, or Cream. 

Boston Baked Bean Croquettes. 

Salt Codfish Balls, Horseradish Sauce. 

Parker House Rolls. Coffee. 

THnner 

Cream of Chestnut Soup. Braised Fowl. 

Candied Sweet Potatoes. 

Cranberry Sauce. 

Celer)', French Dressing. 

Jellied Apples with Orange. 

Whipped Cream. Coffee. 

Supper 

Curried Oysters, Boiled Rice. 

Jelly Tarts. Tea. 



"Breakf^i 

Quaker Oats. Sliced Bananas, 

Cream or Milk. 

Broiled Bacon, Fried Eggs. 

Spider Corn-cake. Cereal Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Dried Lima Beans, Stewed. 

Bread and Butter. 

Baked Sweet Apples, Cream or Milk. 

Cocoa. 

dinner 

Chicken Croquettes. 

Potatoes in Cream Sauce. 

Squash. Cole Slaw. 

Rice Pudding with Meringue. 

Coffee. 



'Breakfast 

Malta-Ceres. Hot Dates, Cream. 

Frizzled Dried Beef. Sauted Potatoes. 

Dry Toast. Cereal Coffee. Cocoa. 

Luncheon 

Fresh Fish, Broiled. Baked Potatoes. 

Pickled Beets. Apple Sauce. 

Baking-powder Biscuits. Coffee. 

^Dinner (Guests) 

Raw Oysters. Beef Tenderloin, Broiled. 

Mashed Potatoes. 

Boiled Onions with Cream Sauce. 

Lettuce Salad. 

Walnuts in Lemon Jelly. 

Boiled Custard. Coffee. 



'Breakfast 

Shredded-wheat Biscuit with 

Creamed Codfish. 

Stewed Tomatoes. 

Doughnuts. Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Tomato Bouillon. Soup Biscuit. 

Wafifles with Peach Preserves. 

Tea. 

^Dinner 

Fresh Haddock, Baked. 

Bread Stuffing, Drawn Butter Sauce. 

Mashed Potatoes. Buttered Parsnips. 

Escalloped Cabbage. 

Apple Pie. Cheese. 

Coffee. 



'Breakfast 

Barley Crystals. Baked Apples, Cream. 

Cold Boiled Ham. 

French Fried Potatoes. 

Corn -meal Griddle Cakes, Syrup. 

Cereal Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Macaroni au Gratin. 

Colonial Pudding, Hard Sauce. 

Tea. 

THnner 

Beef a la Mode. Brown Sauce. 

Escalloped Potatoes. Buttered Turnips. 

Spinach Greens. 

Caramel Jelly. Sponge Cake. 

Coffee. 



Early 'Breakfast 

Grape Nuts, Cream. 

Fresh Haddock Cakes, Broiled Bacon. 

Pickles. 

Zwieback. Coffee. 

'^nner 

Fresh Codfish Chowder. 

Escalloped Onions and Tomatoes. 

Baked Apple Dumpling, Hard Sauce. 

Cereal Coffee. 

Supper 

Fried Oysters. Cole Slaw. 

Baking-powder Biscuit (Entire Wheat). 

Baked Apples with Almonds, Cream. 

Tea. 



Early 'Breakfast 

Force. Bananas, Cream. 

Ham Timbales, Tomato 

Sauce. Corn-meal Muffins. 

Coffee. 



THnner 

Meat Pie (Beef a la Mode). 

Cauliflower, 

Hollandaise Sauce. 

Junket with Boston Brown 

Bread Crumbs. Tea. 



Supper 
Boston Baked Beans, 

Tomato Catsup. 

Boston Brown Bread. 

Rye Bread. Coffee Jelly, 

Whipped Cream. Tea. 




l^ikx J^r^aMast CIx:at 



By Kate Gannett Wells 



; 



HERE'S a saying old and musty, 

Yet it is ever new : 
'Tis, Never trouble trouble 

Till trouble troubles you." 



I OR what are you going to 
give thanks ?" asked Eliza Jane, 
as they lingered over the break- 
fast table, just as if a Thanksgiving 
dinner were not impending over them. 

"Well, for one thing," answered 
Phoebe, "that I am not afraid of 
slang. I don't exactly swear, but m}^ 
list of adjectives and expletives is 
not pure English. It makes things 
go when one is a bit slangy. People 
who never use slang are always the 
kind who put on mourning; and that 
is another thing I shall give thanks 
for, — that I don't wear it." 

"But ought you not to wear it 
out of respect?" replied her friend. 

"I never wear my heart upon my 
sleeve," quoted Phoebe, "though I 
know there's a certain protection 
in mourning, and I like the respect 
it implies; but I don't like its limita- 
tions in time, — that is, the gradual 
going back to colors, when I am always 
lonely and always loving my friends, 
in the next world, though they are 
not here. Then there is a deal of 
conventionality about mourning. For 



instance, I can invite six or eight people 
to dinner, but I must not dine out 
with two or three. I can't dance 
at a small hop, though I can sit 
out on the piazza, if it is summer, 
and have as good a time as if I danced, 
and I can make mourning an excuse 
for not doing what I don't want to 
do. I'm thankful my father made 
me promise never fo wear it." 

"And I am thankful that I have 
been brought up to wear it," said 
Eliza Jane; "yet I grant you the 
whole matter is one of taste and habit 
rather than of conviction, and that 
long veils are unhygienic and depress- 
ing, and that people don't stare at 
you now as they used to do. But 
for what else are you going to be thank- 
ful on Thanksgiving?" 

"That I have not got to eat a piece, 
each, of apple, mince, and pumpkin 
pie; that I have not made dozens 
of plum puddings, and put them in 
the store closet for future use, as 
my grandmothers used to do; and 
that I have trussed and stuffed every 
turkey I'm going to send off. There 



After Breakfast Chat 



213 



isn't much charity in giving away 
a turkey that must be got ready 
before it is cooked. It is like giving 
a dress pattern without Hnings or 
a ten-dollar bill for the making." 

"You're the most thorough-going 
giver I ever knew," answered her 
friend. "You put time and thought 
into your gifts, so each one is perfect. 
Now, I'm wondering whether or 
not to give thanks that I'm a woman, 
not a man; and that I'm not ready 
to be married. I don't want to keep 
on doing all my own work, if I am; 
for I'm not scientific, and I don't 
see why the man should not help in 
as well as outside of the house. Most 
of all, I'm thankful that, if ever I do 
marry, it will be for love, and that 
I still have a conscience, — it saves 
me from so many awkward situations. 
I've got so used to it that it isn't 
any bother, so I'm always having a 
good time, and don't have dyspepsia 
worrying as to what is right. Do 
right off what you ought to do, and 
then go to the next thing." 

Phcebe looked at her with a comi- 
cal seriousness, saying: "You're about 
as sensible as they make 'em; yet 
your conscience never is in the way, 
because, as you say, you attend to 
it right off. I'm always bargaining 
with mine, so I get left; and, after 
I've done what I thought would be 
fun, I have found out it wasn't, and 
so I've had to apologize to my con- 
science. After all, it would be a 
sorry state of things not to have 
a conscience, and so be in a constant 
pickle of little wrong-doings; but 
I suppose conscience has to be edu- 
cated, like anything else." 

"That's another reason for thank- 
fulness. Who would want either a 
Renaissance or a Puritanic conscience ! 
I like the breadth, generosity, and 
earnestness of a modern woman's 
conscience, — its incisiveness and ten- 



derness, its sense of wide relationship 
and near duties, and its all-embrac 
ing forgiveness and encouragement. 
I'm thankful I was born: it does not 
matter much whether as man or 
woman; and, whichever way it is, 
it might have been worse the other 
way. And I'm mighty thankful I'm 
an American, and that there are per- 
sonal as well as national Thanksgiv 
ings; and I hope that some time I 
can give thanks that I am — married." 

"But if you are not?" queried 
Phoebe. 

"Then I should give thanks for 
that ; and, if I can't care for a hUvSband, 
I'll adopt a child, somebody to love, 
even if no one loves me. You know 
I always was active." 

"You might give thanks," returned 
Phoebe, "that you were born with- 
out a tendency to worry, you always 
make the best of things till there 
isn't any worst. You are a true 
descendant of the Devon rhymester 

who said, — 

' ' Never trouble trouble 
Till trouble troubles you." 

You take things so easily you'll never 
know that trouble is trouble, when 
it comes. And you can give thanks, 
too, that you haven't a tendency, 
as I have, to do mean things. If I 
were a farmer, I'd always put my 
best apples on top of the barrel; 
if a fisherman, I'd let the lobsters 
out of another man's pot." 

"I wonder," answered Ehza Jane, 
"if, after all, the best thing for which 
to give thanks is not the power for 
humble usefulness, be one man, wom- 
an, or child. But may the year 
soon come, when we can be thankful 
that we need not have a better dinner 
on Thanksgiving Day than on other 
days of the year. Meanwhile we 
must attend to our nearest duty, — 
stoning raisins, chopping citron, and 
stirring the pudding for others to eat." 



In Reference to the Thanksgiving Dinner 



The Turkey 

THOUGHTS of Thanksgiving 
Day and turkey are — in this 
country — one and insepara- 
ble. To have a good Thanksgiv- 
ing dinner means turkey and turkey 
"done to a turn." To start out with, 
the turkey must be a good one, young, 
but full grown, and with the plump- 
ness that October alone can give. 
Then the cooking must be such as 
to give juiciness — which turkeys often 
lack — combined with a rich brown 
color like that of the October woods. 
Tenderness is also a prime requisite. 
But, to commence more nearly at 
the beginning of the subject, a word 
must be said on the trussing of the 
turkey. In these days, when every 
one goes to a cooking school, or, at 
least, reads books on cookery, there 
is no excuse for presenting a turkey 
with drumsticks pointing skyward. 
With the aid of trussing needle (one 
costs eighteen cents, and lasts a life- 
time) or skewers the turkey is made 
to take on a neat, compact shape, 
with no disconnected portion exposed 
to the drying heat of the oven. This 
is a gain gastronomical no less than 
ethical. Roasting the turkey before 
the open fire or under the flame of the 
gas oven is pleasant to read or talk 
about, but tedious in practice. The 
open pan, in any oven, with basting 
each ten minutes, — if the heat be 
tempered considerately, — gives satis- 
factory results. So also does the 
double pan, which does away with all 
basting. 

Turkey and Sour Cream 
As a novelty, a subscriber from 
New York suggests a new way of 
securing a moist and well-flavored 



roast turkey. When the fowl has 
been trussed and made ready for 
baking, smear over the surface of 
the bird with thick, sour cream, let 
stand some hours or, better still, over 
night, or even longer, in the refrig- 
erator. Then with proper baking a 
peculiarly tender bird is the result. 
In spreading steaks and roasts with 
olive oil and vinegar, we follow out the 
same principle: in both cases the oil 
(in one butter fat) excludes the air 
and preserves the flesh, while the 
acetic acid in the cream and vinegar, 
respectively, is softening the fibres. 
The subscriber also suggests that the 
breast be turned downward in the 
pan, and that the cooking be com- 
pleted without turning the bird. The 
basting is to be done as usual, though 
the lack of it will not be as noticeable 
as when the turkey is cooked with 
breast up. As juices flow down- 
ward, this procedure, it seems, may 
insure more juicy white meat; but 
the main thing, after all, lies in the 
regulation of the heat. Given long- 
continued, gentle heat, after the in- 
itial half -hour of searing over the sur- 
face is completed, with systematic 
basting, and juicy and delicate slices 
are bound to fall from the knife of 
the carver. If the fat in the pan 
be too dark to use in making the 
brown giblet sauce, you may know 
that the turkey has been cooked in 
a temperature much too high. 

Serving the Turkey 
Often the head of the family is an 
expert in carving, and really enjoys 
selecting some special tidbit for a 
favored guest or member of the family, 
at the same time taking the respon- 
sibility of seeing that all are well 



in Reference to the Thanksgiving Dinner 



5 



served; but quite as often the average 
man of the house — especially in large 
families — will enjoy his own meal 
much better if he be allowed to per- 
form this duty just before the serv- 
ing of dinner, in the privacy of the 
butler's pantry. A skilful waitress or 
cook can dispose with ease the well- 
carved fowl, in a neat and attractive 
manner, upon the serving- dish, and 
finish the whole with a garnish, simple 
or elaborate, as she pleases. The 
dish is then ready for service, in ac- 
cordance with the English fashion, 
or it may be dispensed ' 'from the side," 
according to the service a la Russe. 

Garnishes for Roast Turkey 
Fancy skewers, holding truffles, 
mushrooms, etc., are used when the 
turkey is sent to the table whole. 
These, with a bit of greenery, unless 
the platter be very large, are quite 
as much as the carver can take care 
of. But, if the carving be done in 
the pantry, more space can be given 
up to the garnishing of the dish. The 
garnish may be of such edibles as 
harmonize or contrast appropriately 
with the turkey. If the turkey be 
roasted without stuffing, chestnut, 
oyster, mushroom, rice, or hominy 
croquettes, sausage, cakes or links, 
white or sweet potato boulettes (round 
croquettes with sweet herbs), or baked 
onions, stuffed with sausage or bread 
crumbs and walnuts, are among the 
items that are naturally suggested. 
Celery or cress, with parsley as third 
choice, will provide the given tone 
so apposite to the rich browns of the 
turkey and the garnishes mentioned. 
If a touch of bright color seems de- 
sirable, it may be found in sprigs of 
barberries or in cubes of jelly placed 
in the centres of halves of sweet pickled 
peaches or pears. Candied cherries, 
softened in boiling water, may be 
used instead of jelly. We have seen 



a turkey garnished with uncooked 
cranberries. This will do with pars- 
ley, which is not intended to be eaten ; 
but a combination of pickled peaches 
and uncooked cranberries would be 
open to criticism. 

The Vegetables 

Vegetables always form an impor- 
tant part of the Thanksgiving dinner, 
and more variety is offered than at 
the ordinary company dinner; and 
yet perfection in cooking should 
not be sacrificed for variety. Mashed 
white potatoes are a favorite dish; 
but we see them in every condition, 
from an unedible mass to a creamy- 
white fluffiness that is a veritable 
delicacy. vStarting out with "riced" 
potatoes, hot milk with a little cream, 
plenty of salt and butter, and the 
vigorous use of a perforated wooden 
spoon, the mixture being kept steam- 
ing hot meanwhile, will produce the 
perfect dish of its kind. 

There are people who believe in eat- 
ing all vegetables, uncooked. Possibly 
these might think that partial cooking 
was preferable to the state of tender- 
ness produced by thorough cooking; 
but, on our part, we find no vegetables 
digestible that are not made tender 
by cooking. Onions are no exception, 
though they are often served neither 
crisp from freshness nor tender from 
cooking. To serve these stuffed with 
bread and nuts, first parboil about 
an hour, then remove, and chop the 
centres, and mix with an equal bulk 
of soft bread crumbs, stirred into 
melted butter and enriched with 
nut meats. Walnuts or pecans are a 
good selection. The nuts should either 
be broken into small pieces or crushed 
smooth. A teaspoonful of crushed 
nut meats for each onion will suffice. 
Bake in an agate pan an hour or until 
tender, basting frequently with a 
little butter melted in hot water. 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



Cheese, chicken, or ham, may take 
the place of the nuts. 

There are several ways of serving 
baked squash. One of the best is as 
follows : Cut or saw through the shell, 
and separate into individual portions. 
Lay shell side down in a baking-pan, 
turn in a little hot water, to keep the 
pan from burning, and bake in a hot 
oven until tender. Serve folded in a 
napkin. Eat from the shell with 
butter, salt, and pepper. When con- 
venient, bake the bits of squash, as 
potatoes are baked, on the grate, dry 
heat being preferable. Timbales offer 
a dainty way of serving this vege- 
table. 

A crisp salad is an essential part of 
a rich Thanksgiving dinner, and for 
this no ingredients can be more appro- 
priate than celery and apple. May- 
onnaise dressing is suitable for an 
evening spread or a chafing-dish sup- 
per, but it is entirely out of place for 
the dinner of the day. So also is the 
boiled dressing. French dressing, 
lightly applied, is the only item that 
fills the bill. To prepare this, mix 
all the ingredients together, to form 
a complete emulsion, then mix with 
the prepared salad -materials, or dress 
the materials with oil, seasonings, 
and acid in the foregoing order. 

Cranberry Jelly 
If cranberry jelly rather than sauce 
please your fancy, the directions given 
must be followed explicitly. To one 
quart of berries add one cup of water, 
cover and cook quickly about five 
minutes, or until the berries burst. 
Lift the cover occasionally, lest the 
foaming fruit overflow the dish. Press 
at once through a sieve. (A puree 
sieve that fits firmly into the lower 
part of a double boiler and a wooden 
pestle will enable you to do this part 
of the work in about three minutes.) 
Add at once to the puree two cups of 



sugar, mix thoroughly, and turn into 
a mould. 

The Sweets and Dessert 
If the sweets are to be appreciated, 
let the portions be small, and give 
attention to the flavor. Recipes for 
caramel ice-cream were given in our 
October number. By some the flavor 
of this ice is thought to be enhanced 
and improved by adding half a table- 
spoonful of vanilla extract to each 
quart of cream. Nuts and autumn 
fruits, now at their best, are given 
through courtesy to custom; but it 
were the part of prudence to re- 
strict their service, at this meal, to 
the furnishing forth of a handsome 
table. 

Garniture of the Table 
Fruits, nuts, and grain constitute 
the most fitting ornaments of a table 
laid to celebrate thankfulness for 
bountiful harvests, and we show sev- 
eral ways in which these products may 
be disposed to form table centre- 
pieces. Descriptions are not neces- 
sary save, perhaps, in the case of the 
centre-piece adapted to a large table 
at an institution, hospital, or school, 
where a variety of receptacles cannot 
be easily secured. For this take two 
small grape baskets of same size, de- 
tach the handle from one side of each, 
and tie the baskets together on that 
side. Fasten the two handles to- 
gether over the baskets as one handle. 
Fill with fruit, and set in place. Baste 
heads of grain, oats in this case, upon 
a broad tape, and tie this around the 
baskets, concealing the knot under 
the grain. Cover the stitches with a 
band of ribbon, and finish with a bow. 
Wind ribbon on the handle, and finish 
that with a bow. Surround with 
pressed autumn leaves. For descrip- 
tions of other centre-pieces see page 
195- 



i 



Prizes for Sunday-dinner Menus 



217 



The Dishes 

Old-fashioned blue china is "quite 
the thing" for a Thanksgiving table. 
Special sets, platters with a dozen 
plates, presenting the likeness of the 
bird of honor, are to be found at large 
china stores, where game sets are also 
shown. These, on account of their 
vivid colorings, give a bright and fes- 
tive appearance to the table. 

The pudding-dish, shown on page 
207, is serviceable on this occasion. 
The dish is so designed that it may 
be adapted to many uses. The inner 
vessel is fire-proof, and serves not only 
for puddings, but also for escalloped 
oysters, veal, vegetables, macaroni, 
and other au gratin dishes. In serving 
any of these dishes, set the inner 
vessel, holding the cooked article, into 
the outer bowl. The outer bowl 
makes an admirable salad bowl, and 
the tray upon which it stands may 
serve as a chop plate. 



To return to the sweets, try mak- 
ing the caramel cream ice after a 
slightly different fashion than that 
usually given for cream ice with jun- 
ket. Add the junket tablet dissolved 
in two tablespoonfuls of cold water 
to a quart of lukewarm milk, sweet- 
ened with a cup of sugar melted to 
caramel, and cooked in half a cup of 
plain sugar. Add also half a table- 
spoonful of vanilla extract, and, when 
jellied, a cup of double cream beaten 
solid. Freeze as usual. 



Acknowledgment 
The decorated platter and plates 
on our cover page, also the fruit bowl 
on page 204, and the bonbon dish 
on page 208, of this number, are 
shown by the courtesy of Jones, 
McDuffee & Stratton, at whose es- 
tablishment the latest and best in 
china and glass wares are to be seen. 



Prizes for Sunday-dinner Menus 



WE wish to offer prizes for 
Sunday-dinner menus. 
These are to be given to the 
authors of the menus, which, in the 
judgment of the editor, are most 
suitable for a family of two adults 
and three children of about twelve, 
fourteen, and sixteen years of age, 
respectively, and on these conditions: 
The dinner is to be such as would 
be served to a family who allow, for 
table supplies, about $2 per week for 
each individual, and who keep no 
maid. The points to be noted are 
ease in preparation and palatability, 
also adaptability to the season and 
to the occupation of the family. The 



recipes of dishes given in the menus 
must have appeared in the magazine, 
or be found in the books offered as 
prizes. The prizes are as follows: — 

First prize, a copy of "Practical 
Cooking and Serving." 

Second prize, a copy of the revised 
edition of "Salads, vSandwiches, and 
Chafing-dish Dainties." 

Third prize, one year's subscrip- 
tion to the Cooking -School Magazine. 

All menus contributed are to be 
the property of the magazine, and 
selections from these, as well as the 
prize menus, will be published in the 
magazine under the name of the 
several authors. 



Indian Cookery 

By Julia Davis Chandler 



AN anthropologist would be 
needed to enumerate the seve- 
ral nationaHties of the cooks 
who pass in endless procession through 
our American kitchens. Spaniards 
are as rare as French Canadians are 
common. Chinese in California are 
numerous. Japanese are wanted in 
the navy, and in our hotels French 
chefs are employed. The writer has 
heard of a single Egyptian serving- 
man, but never of a Greek. Cey- 
lonese and East Indians were to be 
seen at the World's Fair, but the 
American Indian as servants are 
few, save when they have so large 
an admixture of negro blood as to 
be no longer Indians. 

The Indian girls from Carlisle, Pa., 
brought from the Far West, are 
favored household assistants, rather 
than employees, during vacation. 
They appear bright, lithe, active, 
and neatly dressed, and manifest, all 
too late, what right methods from 
the outset might have accomplished. 
Though never a servile race, the 
quick fingers and artistic sense of 
Indian women might have been use- 
ful in many ways in the home. If 
they could teach nervous white babies 
to be swathed upon a board, and to 
remain passive when hung in a tree 
or set up in a corner, what a blessing 
as nurses they would become! 

One does not realize the Indian's 
natural ability as cook, until the old 
records are perused, as, for instance, 
Adair's work, published in London 
in 1775, and giving a summary of 
his experiences for "the previous forty 
years" in the Indian country, which 
now compose our Southern States 
from North Carolina to Louisiana. 



So quaint is his language one is 
tempted to give whole paragraphs 
in which he describes the "Cherokees," 
the "Chickasaws," and "Mus-ko- 
ghees," — their games, laws, and cus- 
toms in war and peace, and especially 
their houses and cookery. 

"Their clean, neat dwellings," he 
says, "are whitewashed without and 
within either with decayed oyster 
shells, coarse chalk, or white marly 
clay: each has a corn-house and a 
fowl -house. Every dwelling has a 
small field pretty close to it; and, 
as soon as spring of the year admits, 
there they plant a variety of large 
and small beans, peas, and the smaller 
sort of Indian corn, which usually 
ripens in two months, though called 
by the English 'six weeks' corn.' 
Corn is their chief produce and 
main dependance. Of this they have 
three sorts, one which has been al- 
ready mentioned. The second sort 
is yellow and flinty, and which they 
call 'hommony corn.' The third is 
the largest, of a very white soft grain 
termed 'bread corn.'" Here fol- 
lows a long account of how, "having 
sliced the milky swelled long rows" of 
this corn, the women pound it in 
a wooden mortar with parboiled 
green chestnuts, and knead both to- 
gether, making inch-thick cakes, 
which they wrap in "green corn- 
blades," and boil well. This is quite 
like the tamales made now in the 
South-west. 

Another preparation of corn seems 
to have been the first com flour or 
cornstarch ever made. They took 
fresh corn and cooked it until it 
began to boil, then pounded it fine, 
dried it in the sun or by the fire, 



Indian Cookery 



219 



and sifted it "with sieves of different 
sizes curiously made of the coarser 
or finer cane splinters." This flour 
they sometimes mixed with beans 
and potatoes. "The thin cakes 
mix't with bear's oil," says Adair, 
"were formerly baked on thin stones 
placed over a fire, or on broad earthen 
bottoms fit for such use, but now 
they use kettles: when they intend 
to bake great loaves, they make 
a strong blazing fire, with short dry 
split wood, on the hearth. When it 
is burnt down to coals, they care- 
fully rake them off to each side and 
sweep away the remaining ashes, 
then they put their well-kneaded, 
broad loaf, first steeped in hot water, 
over the hearth, and an earthen 
basin above it with the embers and 
coals atop. This method is as clean 
and efficacious as could possibly be 
done in any oven: when they take 
it off, they wash the loaf in water, 
and it soon becomes firm and very 
white. It is, alike, very wholesome 
and well-tasted to any except the 
vitiated palate of an epicure." 

Between the rows of corn in the 
fields the women grew "pompions, 
watermelons, marshmallows, sun-flow- 
ers, and beans and peas." "The 
French of West Florida and the 
English colonists got from the Indians 
different sorts of beans and peas 
with which they were before entirely 
unacquainted." 

The fields of pompions, melons, etc., 
were usually guarded from birds by 
old women on platforms, who kept 
strict watch, though in danger of 
being killed by enemies, as their 
fields were away from their towns. 
The ripe pompions were "cut in cir- 
cling slices and dried. Potatoes also 
were half boiled and then dried, to 
be used in the spring with their 
favorite bear's oil." 

Bears were plentiful then; and. 



while the traders preferred them 
roasted or made into bacon, the 
Indians cut the flesh in small pieces, 
which they stuck on reeds or "sweet- 
tasted hiccory or sassafras," and bar- 
becued over a slow fire, — "kebobbed," 
as the Orientals of to-day call this 
method of cooking mutton, etc. 

The bear fat the Indians tried out 
into oil, which they preserved in 
good condition from one season to 
another in "large earthen jars cov- 
ered in the ground." This fat they 
fiavored with plenty of sassafras and 
wild cinnamon. "It is of light di- 
gestion." All who are acquainted 
with it prefer it to any oil for any 
use whatsoever. Smooth Florence 
{i.e., Italian olive oil) is not to be 
compared in this respect with rough 
America. The bear bacon the traders 
ate "with herbs that the wood affords 
in plenty," especially the young tops of 
poke in the spring. 

Poke root is poisonous, but the 
young shoots can be eaten like as- 
paragus, or the young leaves like 
spinach; but it is well to scald 
them twice thoroughly before cooking. 
The bunches of pinky-white sprouts 
are sold in Philadelphia, and called 
there "shoots" by many shopkeepers, 
who are ignorant of the botanical 
name. 

While the Indians used many herbs 
and roots, it was not in the form of 
"raw sallads," which they thought 
"only fit for brutes. . . . Their taste 
is so very opposite to that of canni- 
bals that, in order to destroy the 
blood, . . . they overdress every kind of 
animal food." The eggs which the 
Indians brought Adair were boiled 
until blue. He jested, telling them 
his teeth were unable to chew bullets. 
"They said they could not suck eggs 
after the manner of the white people, 
otherwise they would have brought 
them raw, but they hoped he would 



110 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



excuse the present and they would 
take particular care not to repeat 
the error the next time he favored 
them with a visit." 

Again he speaks of the courtesy of 
his Indian hostess in showing him 
how to dip his com bread into 
"hiccory milk," which was made of 
nuts pounded "with a pointed stone in 
a clay basin." The Indians knew 
enough to dip only into the top, and 
not to disturb the shells and sedi- 
ment ; but he did not, and the Indians 
were amused. This seems to have 
been the original nut-butter, an arti- 
cle which we have thought very mod- 
em. 

Berries, black-haws, fruits, hazel- 
nuts, ground-nuts, chestnuts, and 
chinqapins were eaten, and many 
kinds were dried by the Indians for 
winter use. The "Chickasaw" plum, 
the Indians said, was brought by 
their ancestors from South America. 
Black mulberry- trees abounded, and 
on their fruit the bears and wild 
fowl feasted, and "swarms of paro- 
quets enough to deafen one with their 
chattering." It is as strange to us 
to think of our forests once being 
full of tropical birds as it will be 
to our descendants to realize that 
buffalo and mustangs ever roamed 
the plains. At that time, Adair 
says, buffalo were scarce, owing to 
their wanton destruction for their 
tongues and marrow bones only; 
but they had, besides bear and veni- 
son, wild turkeys so fat they could 
scarcely fly, which the English traders 
ran down with horses and hunting 
mastiffs. Wild pigeons, ducks, and 
geese, too, were plenty, so they dried 
their flesh and also that of the buffalo 
and elk, which made a coarse venison. 
Sugar was made from the maple- 
tree. 

He says: "It is surprising to see the 
great variety of dishes the Indians 



make of wild flesh, corn, beans, peas, 
potatoes, pumpions, dried fruits, 
herbs and roots. They can diversify 
their courses as much as the English 
or perhaps the French cooks, and in 
either of the ways they dress their 
food it is grateful to a wholesome 
stomach." 

The Indians sat on stools of pop- 
lar wood "of convenient height and 
shape," and panther skins were used 
for boys and skins of the gentle fawn 
or young buffalo for girls. 

Their spoons were of wood or buf- 
falo horn, and were more modern in 
decoration than their many earthen 
domestic utensils, "pots, pans, jugs, 
mugs, jars, etc., to which it would have 
puzzled Adam to have given signifi- 
cant names." 

He devotes much space to plants 
used for tea, as the "American tea." 
From his description the checker- 
berry, also ginseng root and the early 
buds of the sassafras, became "pleas- 
ant to the taste and conducive to 
health." "The Chinese have sense 
enough to sell their enervating and 
slow-poisoning teas under various fine 
titles, while they themselves prefer 
Ginseng leaves." 

"Let us therefore like frugal and 
wise people use our own valuable 
aromatic tea, and thus induce our 
British Brethren to imitate our 
pleasant and healthy regimen; show- 
ing the utmost indifference to any 
duties the statesmen of Great Britain 
in their assumed prerogative may 
think proper to lay on their East 
India poisoning and dear-bought 
teas." 

To prove that not alone in the set 
tlements did the Indians fare well, 
he says of some of the Shawnee tribe 
that after four years' wandering they 
were "more corpulent than the Chic- 
kasaws who accompanied me, not- 
withstanding they had lived during 



Cakes of the Colonial Period 



221 



that time on the wild products of plied, and that the divine goodness 
the American deserts. This evinces extends to America and its inhabi- 
how easily nature's wants are sup- tants." 



Cakes of the Colonial Period 

By Mrs. E. B. Jones 



OF the different varieties of 
cakes which were wont to 
grace the festal board, groan- 
ing with its abundance, in the days 
of colonial entertaining, perhaps the 
ones best known to us are the so-called 
Loaf, Fruit, and Sponge Cakes. 

At the present day, when cake- 
making has so nearly gone out of 
fashion, the secret of making the 
New England loaf cake is considered 
by many to be nearly or quite a lost 
art. 

For one thing, distillery yeast, 
such as raised the old-fashioned sponge, 
is no longer in common use; and its 
closest imitator, potato yeast, is made 
by comparatively few housekeepers. 
Notwithstanding this supposed draw- 
back, it is quite true that a choice 
cake can be easily made, which will 
rival closely the old-time favorite. 

The rules for so doing are few and 
simple; and, as it is so much in de- 
mand at exchanges, and so much 
of a treat to most people, it would 
seem well worth while to master the 
principles for sake of occasional use. 

Most modern makers of raised loaf 
cake use the yeast cake as leavening 
agent, and this no doubt is one reason 
why much of the cake has a bread- 
like quality and dries quickly. It 
is best, however, to use the potato 
sponge, as the cake will be more moist 
and keep better. 

To make a small quantity of potato 



sponge, boil two or three pared po- 
tatoes and allow them to become dry- 
and mealy. Mash with half as much 
flour, and add one cup of boiling 
water, the same quantity of cold water, 
a tablespoonful of sugar, and a tea- 
spoonful of salt. When the mixture 
is lukewarm, add a cake of yeast, dis- 
solved, and keep, closely covered, 
in a warm place until once thoroughh^ 
light, and no longer. Store until 
wanted in a cool, not freezing, tem- 
perature until wanted. If the yeast 
be allowed to remain in a temperature 
warm enough to continue the fer- 
mentation, it will soon spoil. A 
touch of frost will also kill the yeast 
germs. When we realize the delicate 
character of this household necessity, 
we wonder where it used to be kept 
in old-fashioned houses. 

In order to insure moisture and 
sweetness in any food raised with 
yeast, it should be well understood 
that over-lightness is fatal to the best 
quality of such food, and dryness 
will result in either bread or cake. 

To start loaf cake, a batter is made, 
at night or early in the morning, of 
one cup and a half of milk, one cup 
of new yeast, and one cup of sugar, 
with flour enough to make stiff (about 
five cups will be needed). Some cooks 
use at least one cup of bread flour, in 
the quantities given; but this is a 
matter for each cook to decide for 
herself. [At the present time it is 



222 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



customary to use bread flour exclu- 
sively in all mixtures into which yeast 
enters. — Ed.] A covered pail is a 
good receptacle in which to set loaf 
cake to rise : it should be kept in a 
warm place, like bread. When light, 
add one cup of shortening and another 
cup of sugar, with the whites of two 
eggs, and nutmeg or mace for spice. 
Let this rise again, and fill round pans 
two-thirds full, putting in good raisins 
and citron, well floured, in layers, so 
that they may be distributed evenly 
through the cake. Put in, also, some 
from the top, after the batter is poured 
into the pans, and there will be more 
fruit in the top of the cake. 

The shortening used is lard and 
butter, mixed ; and this, together with 
the whites of the eggs, will insure a 



white and delicate cake. The cake 
should stand in the pans about half 
an hour, and then be baked in a very 
moderate oven, in order to fill the 
pans before commencing to brown. 
Of course, it must have its snowy 
covering, soft and thick, to complete 
a most delectable whole. 

It was the custom to add a little 
spirit of some kind; but this is a mat- 
ter for every one to decide for herself, 
and it is certain that quite good cakes 
can be made without it. 

It is highly proper to serve this old- 
fashioned loaf cake at entertainments 
which savor in any way of the antique ; 
and these colonial features are be- 
coming more and more popular as the 
members of our patriotic societies 
increase. 



Old Endish Gold 



g 



Catch the bear before you sell his 
skin. 

Debt is the worst kind of pov- 
erty. 

Good words cost nothing, but are 
worth much. 

The handsomest flower is not the 
sweetest. 

Inconstancy is the attendant of a 
weak mind. 

Liars are generally cowards, and 
always boasters. 

Ask thy purse what thou should 'st 
buy. 

Pay what you owe, and you will 
know what you are worth. 

Application in youth makes old age 
comfortable. 

Be just and firm of purpose. 

When all is consumed, repentance 
comes too late. 



If every one would mend one, all 
would be amended. 

Poverty wants some, luxury many, 
and avarice all things. 

Do not in prosperity what may be 
repented in adversity. 

None have less praise than those 
who hunt most after it. 

Take heed will surely speed. 

He that is hasty fishes in an empty 
pond. 

As is the gardener, such is the gar- 
den. 

Love is often extinguished by 
thoughtlessness . 

Imitate a good man, but never 
counterfeit him. 

Kindness is a powerful weapon 
too seldom fought with. 

Use your wit as a buckler, not as 
a sword. — Chat* 



( 




i 



uzxus 



wmS- J^ 



ixstuiers. 



THIS department is for the benefit and free use of our subscribers. Questions relating to 
menus and recipes, and those pertaining to culinary science and domestic economics in gen- 
eral, will be cheerfully answered by the editor. Communications for this department must reach 
us before the first of the month preceding that in which the answers are expected to appear. 
In letters requesting answer by mail, please enclose postage stamp; for menus, ^i. Address 
queries to Janet M. Hill, Editor Boston Cooking-School Magazine^ 372 Boylston Street, Boston, 
Mass. 



Query 794. — Mrs. I. P. G., Columbus, 
Ohio: "Recipe for mint ice made of fresh 
mint leaves, for service in living-room or 
library after a luncheon party, or to ladies 
after a dinner party." 

Mint Ice 
Boil one quart of water and a cup 
of sugar (generous measure) fifteen 
minutes. Add a cup of fresh mint 
leaves, chopped fine and steeped an 
hour in a cup of cold water. Heat 
the whole to the boiling-point, and 
strain. When cool, freeze to a mush. 
Serve in sherry or other small glasses 
on doily-covered plates. The addi- 
tion of about one-fourth a cup of 
French brandy would be thought 
requisite by some. This should be 
stirred into the mixture after it is 
frozen. 

Query 795. — Mrs. S. B., Boston, Mass.: 
"Is there any way in which I can determine 
how many people various recipes will serve?" 



Number of People Recipes serve 
The number of people that may be 
served from a given recipe cannot be 
given absolutely. What one would 
consider a bountiful service, another 
might think too small. Then, too, 
much depends upon the number of 
other dishes served at the meal. With 
many made-dishes the quantity of 
liquid used determines the size of the 
dish. In this connection eggs and 
butter, as well as milk, water, sauce, 
and stock, are classed as liquids. For 
instance, in a chicken soufile calling 
for a pint of milk and three eggs, the 
eggs, when beaten light, as in this 
dish, would give a pint, at least, of 
liquid, making with the milk a quart 
in all. This quantity would probably 
be enough to serve eight people boun- 
tifully, and ten, if this dish be supple- 
mented by others, or be for luncheon 
or supper. A quart of chicken, fish. 



224 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



or oyster salad, will serve eight or ten 
people; a quart of soup or ice-cream, 
the same number. 



Query 796. — Mrs. J. K. B., New Haven, 
Ct. : "Recipes for peppermint drops and 
sweet potatoes with sugar." 

Peppermint Drops 
Let one cup of granulated sugar 
and one-fourth a cup of boiling water 
boil vigorously five minutes. Do not 
stir after the sugar is melted and the 
syrup boils. Remove from the fire, 
add about six drops of oil of pepper- 
mint or about twice as much of pep- 
permint essence, and beat until the 
mixture becomes creamy. Drop in 
rounds from the tip of a spoon onto 
oiled paper to cool. When the mixt- 
ure becomes too thick to drop from 
the spoon, add a tablespoonful of hot 
water and reheat, then finish dropping 
into rounds. The mixture may be 
tinted a delicate green with leaf -green 
color-paste. This is the simplest way 
of making this confection. Fondant 
is also used for this purpose. 

Sugared Sweet Potatoes 
Pare and cut in lengthwise halves 
five or six sweet potatoes. Cover 
with boiling water and let boil ten 
minutes, then drain and lay in a but- 
tered baking-dish. Spread each piece 
with butter, then sprinkle with maple 
or brown sugar, and add, if liked, 
a little powdered cinnamon. Add a 
few spoonfuls of hot water, and bake 
until tender, basting occasionally with 
the sauce in the pan. 



Query 797. — Mrs. J. B. L., Apponaug, 
R.I. : "How may wild black duck be cleaned, 
dressed, and roasted so as to eliminate the 
strong flavor peculiar to them?" 

Cooking Black Duck 
Canvas-back, red -head, and some 



varieties of duck that frequent in- 
land waters, all of which feed on vege- 
table matter, require little preliminary 
treatment, save in drawing and wash- 
ing thoroughly, as the flesh is well 
flavored. It is almost impossible to 
get rid of the fishy odor and flavor 
present in ducks that live largely upon 
fish. For the latter try the follow- 
ing: Draw at once, and wash quickly 
and thoroughly in cold water. An 
hour before serving, fill the body with 
green, outside stalks of celery or with 
slices of onion and celery stalks or 
apples, quartered and cored. When 
ready to cook, rub over with salt and 
paprika, and dredge with flour. Cook 
in a hot oven about half an hour, 
basting each ten minutes with hot 
water, to which salt has been added. 
Remove the dressing before serving. 
Serve with olive or orange sauce, or 
with celery, lettuce, or chicory dressed 
with French dressing. Sliced oranges 
or olives may be used in the salad. 
Do not use the dripping in the pan 
in making the sauce. 



Query 798. — Mrs. A. P., Ann Arbor, 
Mich.: "Recipe for frying chicken, Southern 
style." 

Fried Chicken, Southern Style 
Clean and singe a yotmg chicken. 
Separate into pieces as for a fricassee. 
Have ready half a cup or more of fat 
tried out from salt pork or bacon. Dip 
the pieces of chicken, one by one, in 
water, then roll in flour, and fry to a 
golden brown in the hot fat, turning 
the pieces when brown on one side. 
When all are fried, pour out all the 
fat except about two tablespoonfuls, 
put in two tablespoonfuls of sifted 
flour, a dash of salt and pepper, and 
let cook until frothy. Then gradually 
add a cup of cream, and st^i until the 
sauce boils. Let simmer tljree or four 
minutes, and serve in a dish apart. 



Queries and Answers 



225 



A teaspoonful of lemon juice is often 
added to the sauce. 



Query 799. — Mrs. T. H. R., Kansas City, 
Mo.: "Recipes for wheat bread and biscuit 
raised with yeast, also for batter cakes." 

Yeast Bread 
Into a mixing-bowl put two cups 
of scalded 'milk, or milk and water, or 
water, and a teaspoonful of salt, two 
tablespoonfuls of sugar, and two table - 
spoonfuls of shortening. Soften a 
cake of compressed yeast in half a cup 
of lukewarm water, and, when the 
liquid in the mixing-bowl has cooled 
to a lukewarm temperature, stir in 
the yeast and about seven cups of 
flour. Use a broad-bladed knife in 
stirring. When enough flour has been 
added to make a dough that can be 
kneaded, turn onto a board dredged 
with flour, and knead ten or fifteen 
minutes, or until the; dough is smooth 
and elastic and the surface shows small 
blisters. Set aside, covered closely, in 
a temperature of about 70° F., until the 
bulk has doubled. Then "cut down" 
with a knife, to let the air escape, and 
let stand to become light again, or 
shape at once into two loaves. When 
the loaves have nearly doubled in 
size, bake about an hour. The bread 
should be browned over in spots, and 
cease to rise, after being in the oven 
fifteen minutes. By following these 
directions, the bread will be baked 
five or six hours after mixing. 

Yeast Biscuit 
Make a sponge of a cup and a half 
of milk, scalded and cooled, a yeast 
cake, softened in half a cup of luke- 
w^arm water, and about two cups of 
flour. When the mixture is light 
and puffy, add two tablespoonfuls of 
sugar, three-fourths a teaspoonful of 
salt, half a cup of melted butter, two 
tablespoonfuls of sugar and enough 



flour to make a soft dough that can 
be kneaded. Knead about fifteen 
minutes, then let rise until it has 
doubled in bulk. Shape into balls, 
brush the sides of each with melted 
butter, and place close together in 
a baking-pan. Let stand to become 
very light, until the bulk is rather 
more than doubled, then bake about 
half an hour in a hot oven. When 
nearly baked, brush over the top 
crust with two teaspoonfuls of corn- 
starch, diluted with cold water and 
stirred into and cooked in a cup of 
boiling water. Return to the oven, 
and repeat the process once or twice, 
or until the biscuits are well glazed. 

Batter Cakes 
Pass through a sieve, together, two 
cups and one-half of flour, four level 
teaspoonfuls of baking-powder, and 
half a teaspoonful of salt. Beat the 
yolks of two eggs, add two cups of 
sweet milk, and stir into the dry in- 
gredients. Finish by beating in the 
whites of two eggs, beaten dry. Bake 
on a hot griddle. Two cups of 
buttermilk or sour milk with one tea- 
spoonful of soda may take the place 
of the sweet milk and baking-powder. 



Query 800. — R. L., New York City: 
' ' Kindly explain exactly how to use fondant 
in making chocolate creams and bonbons. 
Is the fondant melted before shaping? 
Should it be very hard after it is made? 
How is fruit cake steamed and then baked 
in a slow oven?" 

Fondant in Bonbons, etc. 
After the fondant has been worked 
with a wooden spatula and kneaded, 
press one portion into a jar, cover se- 
curely, and set aside in a cool place. 
Roll the rest into balls, and shape 
these into cones or other forms, as 
desired; roll the balls with the 
hands, then shape on a board, as in 
shaping croquettes. Let the centres 



226 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



stand on oiled paper, to dry, about 
twelve hours. They should be crusted 
over on the outer surface and soft 
within. Melt the fondant, which was set 
aside in a jar, in a double boiler, add- 
ing melted chocolate and a tablespoon- 
ful or more of hot sugar syrup, or 
water, to secure the right consistency 
to completely coat the centres. Beat 
the fondant while it is melting and 
before dipping each centre. 

Fruit Cake Steamed and Baked 
We have had no experience in 
steaming fruit cake before baking, 
and cannot give definite directions 
for this procedure. Should think that 
the cake would have to be steamed 
in a covered mould, in the same man - 
ner as a ''plum pudding," five or six 
hours. After this time the cover 
might be removed, and the cake set 
into the oven, though we see no rea- 
son for this. A properly mixed fruit 
cake would be thoroughly cooked after 
steaming six hours. 



Query 8oi.— B. L. G., Westfield, Mass.: 
"Why has the surface of a frosted cake 
(slice received) turned green? The frosting 
was made of cold coffee, pulverized sugar, 
and the white of an egg, uncooked. The 
color was not noticeable until the day after 
the cake was made. Then the entire sur- 
face of the frosting had taken on a uni- 
form green hue." 



Green Tint in Frosting Made 
with Egg and Coffee 

We are unable to explain the chem- 
ical process which causes the appear- 
ance in the frosting, as described in 
the foregoing. The matter has been 
referred to before in these pages, 
though the circumstances were some- 
what different. At least three things 
must be brought together, to produce 
this result: namely, white of egg, 
coffee, and oxygen. A similar color 
is occasionally brought out when 



egg-shells are used to settle coffee, 
and the coffee-pot has not been 
cleansed immediately. The green 
color is distinctly visible on the edges 
of the shells that rise above the 
liquid. 

Query 802.— Mrs. W. D. F., River Falls, 
Wis.: "Recipes for scrapple, pork sausages 
that will keep through the winter months, 
mince-meat that is not very rich, and a 
plain fruit cake without brandy." 

Philadelphia Scrapple 
Cook a pig's head in boiling water 
until the flesh slips easily from the 
bones. Take out the bones, and chop 
the meat fine. When the liquor in 
which the head was cooked has be- 
come cold, remove the fat, and re- 
heat the liquor to the boiling-point. 
Add the chopped meat, a teaspoonful 
of salt for each quart of liquid, and 
pepper to taste, and heat again to the 
boiling-point. Then sift in, through 
the fingers of one hand, while stir- 
ring with the other, as in making 
corn-meal mush, enough corn-meal 
to give the consistency of mush. Let 
boil vigorously several minutes, then 
set back on the range to cook more 
slowly half an hour. Stir occasion- 
ally. When cooked, turn into bread- 
pans and set aside in a cool place. 
This may be kept several weeks in 
midwinter. When ready to use, cut 
into slices half an inch thick, and 
saute in butter, bacon fat, or drip- 
pings. 

Pork Sausages 
Pass raw fresh pork, of which about 
two-thirds is lean meat, through a 
food-chopper. To each quart, or two 
pounds, add a teaspoonful, each, of 
salt and black pepper and two 
teaspoonfuls of powdered sage or 
spiced poultry seasoning. Mix thor- 
oughly, and pack solidly in fruit jars, 
bags made of stockinet or heavy cot- 



Queries and Answers 



227 



ton drilling, or in skins prepared for 
the purpose. If fruit jars be used, 
pour over the top of the meat melted 
fat. If bags be used, simply tie very 
tightly at the top. The latter must 
be kept in a very cool place. After 
freezing and thawing they must be 
cooked at once. Try using these in 
Boston baked beans in the place of 
salt pork, which may be kept in brine 
almost indefinitely. 

Plain Mince-meat 
Chop fine four pounds of beef from 
round, vein, or rump, that has been 
cooked until tender. Add four quarts 
of chopped apples, two pounds of 
chopped suet, one quart of molasses, 
one pint of sugar, one quart of boiled 
cider, about two and one-half table- 
spoonfuls of salt, two pounds of 
raisins, one pound of currants, one 
nutmeg, grated, one tablespoonful, 
each, of powdered cinnamon and mace, 
half a tablespoonful, each, of pow- 
dered clove and pepper, and as much 
of the liquor in which the meat was 
cooked as is needed to make the 
mixture of proper consistency. When 
thoroughly mixed, taste the mixture, 
and add salt or sugar, etc., to suit 
individual taste. 

Plain Fruit Cake 
Cream three-fourths a cup of butter. 
Add three-fourths a pound of sugar, 
then the beaten yolks of six eggs, one- 
third a cup of molasses, and one- 
fourth a cup of milk or cold coffee, 
three -fourths a pound of flour sifted 
with half a teaspoonful of soda, one 
teaspoonful, each, of mace and cloves, 
half a teaspoonful of nutmeg and one 
and a half teaspoonfuls of cinnamon, 
the stiff-beaten whites of six eggs, 
and, lastly, one pound and a half, 
each, of seeded raisins and currants, 
half a pound of citron, cut in thin 
slices and dredged with flour. Bake 



about four hours in one pan or about 
two hours in two pans. 



Query 803. — A. H., Harlem, N.Y. : "Give 
menus, decorations, etc., for an oyster 
supper, and a turkey supper, to be given at 
a fair in November." 

Oyster Supper at Fair 
For decorations at both suppers 
use chrysanthemums, grains, au- 
tumn fruit, or pressed autumn leaves. 
If a fixed price is to be charged for 
the oyster supper, let the price in- 
clude oysters served in a certain 
number of ways, three or four, with 
the accessories, the dessert and the 
coffee. Provide the tables with an 
abundance of olives, pickles, celery, 
cole slaw", rolls, and sandwiches, 
Boston brown and white bread. Hot 
baking-powder and yeast biscuit 
might be provided for fried and scal- 
loped oysters. Among the oyster 
dishes include raw oysters with quar- 
tered lemons, oyster cocktails, oyster 
stew, oyster soup, scalloped oysters 
with celery salad, fried oysters with 
sauce tartar, oyster patties, and oyster 
salad. Oysters creamed, curried, 
or Hollandaise, might be served in 
the chafing-dish to family groups 
seated at small tables. The dessert 
might include cranberry pie, pine- 
apple sherbet, English walnuts in 
lemon jelly, with whipped cream, 
and possibly cake, though much sw^eet 
is out of place after fish. Coffee, 
fruit, and nuts will be in order. 

Turkey Supper 
For a turkey supper, roast turkey 
and cranberry sauce, with mashed 
potato, squash, onions, and celery, 
are the usual dishes. Raw oysters, 
soup, salad, and dessert may be' 
added to suit the taste or pocket- 
book, preferably both. Scalloped 
oysters are frequently served, at such 
a dinner, as an entree. Pies, ice- 



228 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



cream, and cake are the most easily 
managed sweats, where large numbers 
are to be served. The following 
menu may serve as a specimen: — 

Roast Turkey, 

Bread Stuffing, Giblet Sauce. 

Cranberry Sauce. Mashed potatoes. 

Mashed Squash. 

Buttered Onions. Celery. 



Scalloped Oysters. Cole Slaw. 

Or 
Chicken, Celery-and-Walnut Salad. 



Pumpkin, Squash, and Apple Pie. 
Vanilla Ice-cream with Preserved 

Peaches or Quinces. Cake. 

Fruit. Nuts, Bonbons. Coffee. 



Query 804. — F B. L., Saunderstown, 
R.I. : "How does one extract the oil from 
lavender -and other blossoms?" 

Oil of Lavender, etc. 
The oil of flowers is extracted 
by maceration, or by enfleurage with 
clarified fat or almond oil. To ex- 
tract by maceration, let a pound of 
blossoms stand twenty-four hours in 
a gallon of rectified spirits. Strain 
and add a pound of fresh blossoms, 
to stand twenty-four hours, and re- 
plenish with fresh blossoms each day 
for a week, when a tincture of the 
given flowers results. To secure the 
oil by enfleurage, melt half a pound 
of choice suet in a double boiler, and 
strain through a very fine sieve into 
cold water. When the fat has solid- 
ified, melt and strain as before. Re- 
peat the process three or four times, 
and free the mixture from water. 
Then set where it will be just warm 
enough to remain in ' a liquid state. 
Into the fat throw as many blossoms 
as it will cover. Let stand twenty- 
four hours, then strain and add fresh 
blossoms. Repeat every day for a 
w^eek. Then chop the fat fine, and 
put into a wide-mouthed bottle; 
cover with highly rectified spirits. 



and let stand for a week: then strain 
off the spirits, which will be highly 
perfumed. The theory is that the 
fat has a strong affinity for the essen- 
tial oil of the flowers, and absorbs 
it by contact.. Then the spirits have 
a greater attraction for the essential 
oil than has the fat, and becomes satu- 
rated. 

Query 805. — Mrs. A. K. B., Skowhegan, 
Me.: "Why do raisins or currants fall to 
the bottom of a cake when the cake seems 
light and sufficiently stiff with flour? Re- 
cipes for a steamed apple pudding that will 
be moist and spongy, also for an apple 
dumpling. Would like to know of a good 
syrup to use on flap-jacks after the native 
maple syrup is out of season." 

Fruit in Cake 
Fruit falls because of its w^eight, 
also because the bubbles of air in the 
cake as they are heated become very 
light and rise from the fruit. Fruit 
should not be added to cake in which 
a large quantity of gas is evolved. 
Many cooks think that fruit is less 
liable to settle in cake, if it be mixed 
thoroughh' into the creamed butter 
and sugar before any other ingredi- 
ents are added. 

Steamed Apple Pudding 
Use the recipe given on page 88 of 
our August-September magazine, sub- 
stituting a cup or more of sliced apples 
for the blackberries. 

Steamed Apple Dumpling 
Fill a pudding - dish with sliced 
apples, and sprinkle them lightly with 
salt and tw^o or three tablespoonfuls 
of water. Spread over the batter given 
for steamed apple pudding or the fol- 
lowing mixture: Sift together a cup 
and a half of flour, three teaspoonfuls 
of baking-powder, and one-fourth a 
teaspoonful of salt. Into this work, 
with the tips of the fingers, three 
tablespoonfuls of butter. Beat an 



Queries and Answers 



119 



tgg; add three-fourths a cup of 
milk (scant measure), and stir into 
the dry ingredients. Steam about 
forty-five minutes, then invert the 
dish, so as to have the apples, on the 
top. Serve hot with butter and sugar 
or syrup. This dumpling may be 
baked in twenty-five minutes. 

Syrup for Flap-jacks 
Karo corn syrup has been placed 
recently on the market. Why not 
try this? For home -made syrups 
there are plain sugar and water, equal 
measures, boiled to any consistency 
you like, or sugar cooked to a caramel 
and boiled, after melting, with hot 
water ; or perhaps you would prefer 
a chocolate syrup. For this melt an 
ounce or more of chocolate, and add 
two cups of sugar and a cup of boiling 
water. Stir and cook until smooth 
and of the desired consistency. Flavor 
with one teaspoonful of vanilla or one- 
fourth a teaspoonful of powdered cin- 
namon. 

Query 806. — Mrs. F. A. M., Dorchester, 
Mass. : "Recipes for oatmeal bread and grape- 
fruit marmalade." 

Oatmeal Bread 
Follow the recipe given for white 
bread, page 799. Pour the hot milk 
onto one or two cups of rolled oats, 
add the shortening, and, if preferred, 
molasses instead of sugar. Then fin- 
ish as in the recipe referred to. Pre- 
pare grape-fruit marmalade in the 
same manner as orange marmalade. 
See page 379 of the March, 1903, 
magazine. 

Query 807.— F. M. L., Concord, N.H.: 
" In making puff-paste, why is the paste 
kneaded, then covered, and left to stand a 
short time before it is rolled out and the 
butter rolled in ?" 

" Resting " Pastry 
Pastry is allowed to "rest" (this 



is the culinary term for the above 
procedure), after it has been kneaded, 
because thereby it is rolled out much 
more easily and quickly. So, too, 
between the "turns," if the paste be 
covered" to exclude air, and let stand 
perhaps five minutes, it may be rolled 
out quickly and with ease. Before 
an open window or in a room at a 
temperature of about 50° F., puff 
paste may be easily made without 
ice and with no longer delay than 
is occasioned by five minutes of 
"rest," occasionally, between "turns." 
We are unable to explain why this 
is so; but, after standing a few mo- 
ments, dough seems to be in a re- 
laxed condition. 



Query 808. — Mrs. AV. H. D., Detroit, Mich. : 
" How can ramekins of fine china be used for 
scalloped dishes without injury from the 
heat of the oven? " 

China Ramekins and Oven Heat 

Any dish, even of fine china, that is 
designed for oven use is supposed to 
be made to stand heat. French china 
sold for baked puddings, scalloped fish, 
oysters, macaroni, and the like, has 
a very fine or high glaze. If food 
be burned upon these dishes, it rnay 
be removed without resort to sapolio 
and similar detergents. Soaking in 
water a few moments is all that is 
needed. If in doubt about the fire- 
proof qualities of china, use the dishes 
for articles that have been previously 
cooked and are set in the oven 
only for the final browning, usually 
of buttered crumbs. Among such 
dishes would be cooked fish, vege- 
tables, or meat heated in a sauce, 
then turned into the dishes, and cov- 
ered with buttered crumbs. Hot 
tomatoes in layers, with buttered 
crumbs, could be cooked in a very 
moderate oven. vSareguemines ware 
and many white wares will stand a 
high degree of heat. . 



Notes and Correspondence 

A DDRESS communications for this department to Janet M. Hill, Editor of the Boston 



Cooking-School Magazine, 372 Boylston Street, Boston. 



Bessie Loesch, class of 1902, Boston 
Cooking School, has lately accepted a 
position as teacher of cookery at 
Hampton Institute, Hampton, Va. 



Miss Emma L. Morrow, class of 
1902, after a period of four months 
in settlement work at Rochester, 
N.Y., took charge of the Depart- 
ment of Domestic Economy in the 
Indiana Soldier's and Sailor's Home 
at Knightstown, Ind. Miss Morrow 
made a pronounced success of her 
work, and received the appointment 
for a continuance of her work in In- 
diana. 



The ladies of the First Baptist 
Church of Macon, Ga., wishing to 
raise money to pay off the mortgage 
on their church, instituted what they 
called "The Woman's Exchange." 
A range was installed in the basement 
of the church, and upon it were de- 
veloped such tarts, puddings, and 
cakes as mother used to make. These 
were sold on Saturdays. From $20 
to $25 was taken in every Saturday. 
So urgent has been the demand for 
its pastry creations that the church 
bake-shop is still continued, though 
the mortgage has been cancelled, 
and the surplus revenue will be de- 
voted to the minister's salary and 
expenses. 

A distinguished foreigner, who has 
been summering at Newport, is very 
fond of American society. 

In talking with a Boston Herald 



reporter he said: "It is so pleasant 
over here, especially at dinner. The 
men say nothing, and the women do 
all the talking. This gives the men 
a chance to eat the good things, and 
to thoroughly enjoy their dinner. 
On the continent it is different, as over 
there the men have to do all of the 
entertaining, while the women folks 
talk very little, they are so busy eat- 
ing." 

And so, "brought back to health 
by a few hearty meals," Miss Maxine 
Elliott is able to open the season in 
a new play. There is a moral in this 
for the lady who wants to get thin, 
and who goes about it without medi- 
cal advice, and unaided by good 
judgment. Miss Elliott discovered, 
as did Emma Eames and others who 
might be named, that no woman can 
work half the day, walk the other 
half, and sit up most of the night 
taking athletic exercises, all on a 
starvation diet, without feeling the 
consequences in other ways than by 
decreasing flesh. 



BERLIN, Ontario. 

Dear Madam, — Your magazine is 
very highly prized by me ; and, though 
I do not say I could not keep house 
without it, I certainly can keep house 
much better with it. 

The contents, from the pretty, 
dainty, illustrated cover to the last 
lines, are replete with timely arti- 
cles. 

Mrs. H. C. H. 



Home=Made 

Food 



You will save much money in the household by 
baking at home instead of buying at the bake-shop 
or grocery. You will also get fresher, better, more 
tasty, purer and cleaner food. 

Besides there is a pride and satisfaction in 
serving beautiful, novel and dainty food which has 
been made by the hands of mother or daughters, 
and which is certain to win admiration and praise 
from every one at the table. 

ROYAL BAKING POWDER helps the 
housewife to produce at home, quickly and 
economically, fine and tasty cake, the raised hot- 
biscuit, puddings, the frosted layer cake, crisp 
cookies, crullers, crusts, muffins and other bread- 
foods with which the ready-made food found at 
the bake-shop or grocery does not compare. It is 
the greatest of bake-day helps. 

ROYAL BAKING POWDER CO., NEW YORK. 



Book Reviews 



A 



NY BOOK reviewed or advertised in this 
magazine will be sent postpaid on receipt of 
the price by the Cookmg-School Magazine. 



The Care of a House. By T. M. 

Clark. Cloth. i2mo. $1.50. New 

York: The Macmillan Company. 

This is a volume of suggestions to 
householders, housekeepers, and others 
for the economical and efficient 
care of dwelling-houses. It gives a 
simple explanation of the structure 
of a modern house, and of the appli- 
ances which are attached to it, with 
descriptions of the disorders to which 
they are subject, and of the methods 
of preventing and curing such dis- 
orders. 

The importance to family life of 
a comfortable, wholesome dwelling, 
and the distress, anxiety, and expense 
often caused by defects which, if un- 
derstood in season, might have been 
easily remedied, render this a valuable 
volume. It is filled with information 
that is worth knowing, and such as 
will most likely prove of saving value 
in countless cases. For those who 
want to know how to build properly, 
it will answer many questions. As 
a handbook of reference in the hom.e, 
it has enduring value, for it will be 
a resource of help on frequent occa- 
sions. 



Witnesses of the Light. By Wash- 
ington Gladden, D.D. Illustrated. 
i2mo. $1.25 net. Boston: Hoiigh- 
ton, Mifflin & Co. 

This is an interesting book. Biog- 
raphy affords not only the most in- 
teresting, but the most valuable of 
reading matter. History, the pro- 
gressive thought of the world, is 
[Continued on page xii.) 



Doctor Knew 

Had Tried it Himself 

The doctor who has tried Postum 
Food Coffee knows that it is an easv, 
certain, and pleasant way out of the 
coffee habit and all of the ails following, 
and he prescribes it for his patients, 
as did a physician of Prospertown, 
N.J. One of his patients says: "Dur- 
ing the summer just past I suffered ter- 
ribly with a heavy feeling at the pit of 
my stomach and dizzy feelings in my 
head, and then a blindness would come 
over my eyes, so I would have to sit 
down. I would get so nervous I could 
hardly control my feelings. 

Finally, I spoke to our family phy- 
sician about it, and he asked if I drank 
much coffee and mother told him that 
I did. He told me to immediately 
stop drinking coffee and drink Postum 
Food Coffee in its place, as he and his 
family had used Postum and found it 
a powerful rebuilder and delicious food 
drink. 

"I hesitated for a time, disliking 
the idea of having to give up my 
coffee, but finally I got a package, and 
found it to be all the doctor said. 
Since drinking the Postum in place 
of coffee, my dizziness, blindness, and 
nervousness are all gone, my bowels 
are regular, and I am again well and 
strong. That is a short statement of 
what Postum. has done for me. ' ' Name 
given by Postum Company, Battle 
Creek, Mich. 

Look in each package for a copy of 
the famous little book, "The Road to 
Wellville." 



Advertisements 




PREPARED by adding boiling water only and allow- 
ing to congeal —that's all. So little trouble — so de- 
lightful results with Bromangelon. 

The ONE Perfect DESSERT JELLY 

Delicious and pure. See that you receive Bromangelon 
when ordering Bro-man-gel-on, thereby protecting yourself 
from substitution. 

FLAVORS: Lemon, Orange, Raspberry, Strawberry, 
and Cherry. 13 cents the package. At all leading 
Grocers. 

Illustrated booklet FREE. 

STERN & SAALBERG, Manufacturers, New York 




Never becomes soggy, nor 
hard and tough — 
always fresh and crisp — 
A dainty wafer-like morsel that 
appeals to particular people. 

'Delicious with soups 
and salads. 

S. S. PIERCE CO. 

iSellizxgf Agents 
Boston BrooKline 



CUDAHY'S 

R.ex Brand 
Beef ErXtract 

"THE TASTE TELLS" 

For Soups, Sauces X>^^X ^g^^t 
Savory Sundries and £jx£%ij M. ^tt 

iSectire a Set of tKe 

Famous CudaKx A-1 Silver 

Plated Botiillon Spoons 




When you write advertisers, please mentiou The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 



Book Reviews 



{Continued from page x) 
epitomized in the narratives of the 
lives of. eminent men. Here are, in 
six chapters, sketches, necessarily 
brief, of six most distinguished men: 
Dante, the Poet; Michel Angelo, the 
Artist; Fichte, the Philosopher; Vic- 
tor Hugo, the Man of Letters; Rich- 
ard Wagner, the Musician ; and Ruskin, 
the Preacher. 

The book may be regarded as the 
very latest summing up of the re- 
spective life-work, and character of 
these men by an admiring scholar 
and literary critic. To the appre- 
ciative reader it provides an excel- 
lent introduction to a more extended 
acquaintance with the life and work of 
these men. We like to read the lives 
of men of character and .worth such as 
these, — true men, frank, outspoken, 
and in no sense professional humbugs. 
They dipped deeply into the mysteries 
of nature and life ; they were, also, fully 
dowered with the enthusiasm of hu- 
manity; witnesses truly are they of 
the light for which all are seeking. 

Naught else than profit can accrue 
to young or old, in the perusal of 
books like this; and, assuredly, the 
reading of youth should be confined 
almost exclusively to biographical 
writings. In comparison with mod- 
ern fiction, how great the gain in real 
attainment and noble incentive I 



The Book of Chii^dren's Parties. 
By Mary and Sara White. Small 
i2mo. Numerous illustrations from 
photographs and drawings. Price 
$1 net (postage, 7 cents). New 
York : The Century Company. 
"The Book of Children's Parties" 
is for the mothers and teachers and 
grown-up friends of boys and girls 
of all ages. It is a book for every 
home where there are children, and 
for every person who ever wishes 
to entertain boys and girls accept- 
ably. The book gives happy sugges- 
(Continued on page xiv) 



Machine Made 

Our mothers used to spin the flax 

Our fathers used to raise, 
And make the garments that they wore 

For work and hoHdays. 
The spinning-wheel is dusty now, 

Nor half so stout, I ween, 
Are coats and vests and breeches now 

We make 'em by machine. 

Washington Star. 



Busy Doctor 

Sometimes overlooks a Point 

The physician is such a busy man 
that he sometimes overlooks a valuable 
point to which his attention may be 
called by an intelligent patient who 
is a thinker. 

"About a year ago my attention 
was called to Grape-nuts by one of 
my patients," says a physician of 
Cincinnati. 

"At the time my own health was 
bad and I was pretty well run down, 
but I saw in a minute that the theories 
behind Grape-nuts were perfect, and, 
if the food was all that was claimed 
for it, it was a perfect food. So I 
commenced to use Grape-nuts with 
warm milk twice a day, and in a short 
time began to improve in every way, 
and I am now much stronger, feel 
50 per cent, better, and weigh more 
than I ever did in my life. 

"I know that all of this good is due 
to Grape-nuts, and I am firmly con- 
vinced that the claims made for the 
food are true. I have recommended 
and still recommend the food to a great 
many of my patients with splendid 
results, and in some cases the improve- 
ment of patients on this fine food has 
been wonderful. 

"As a brain and nerve food, in fact, 
as a general food. Grape-nuts stands 
alone." Name given by Postum Com- 
pany, Battle Creek, Mich. 

Look in each package for a copy of 
the famous little book, "The Road to 
WellviUe." 



-the HG6it*i o:f ihe Cook 




When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 



Book Reviews 



{Continued from page xii) 
tions and full descriptions for Christ- 
mas, Twelfth-Night, Valentine, Alice 
in Wonderland. Easter, May, Rose, 
Fourth-of-July, Beach, Mountain, Hal- 
lowe'en, Indian, Dutch, and other 
parties. It tells how to make many 
suitable and dainty favors. It offers 
menus for all the parties suggested; 
and it describes a number of games 
good to fill in the odd moments, not 
only for formal entertainments, but 
for evening amusement in the home 
and for the kindergarten. The au- 
thors have had wide experience in 
entertaining children; and the many 
illustrations, from photographs and 
drawings, add to the little book's 
interest and helpfulness. 

This little book is very neatly and 
tastefully gotten up, and is a gem of 
its kind. 



Thi$ Little: Tea Book. By Arthur 

Gray. i6mo. Illustrated. $1.25. 

New York: The Baker & Taylor 

Company. 

This is a companion volume to 
' ' Over the Black Coffee ' ' by the same 
author. An attractive gift-book. It 
is filled with a "superior blend of 
tea-talks, tales, and tattle." The 
binding, make-up, and miniature tea- 
box fit it particularly for holiday use. 
At the same time it is quaint, instruc- 
tive, and entertaining; for it contains 
much about tea and its use, and much 
about great tea-drinkers, not exclud- 
ing the famous Dr. Johnson, who 
drew his own portrait thus: "A 
hardened and shameless tea-drinker, 
who for twenty years diluted his 
meals with the infusion of this fasci- 
nating plant, whose kettle had scarcely 
time to cool, who with tea amused 
the evening, with tea solaced the mid- 
night, and with tea welcomed the 
morning." 



$1.50. New York: The Macmil- 

lan Company. 

This is a remarkably interesting 
book in more than one respect. It 
is entirely out of the ordinary line 
of modern stories, and it bears the 
quaint and fascinating style of three 
hundred years ago. 

The book contains an account of 
the career of one James Blount, whose 
dramatic life and tragic end occurred 
during the great Civil Wars of England 
in the seventeenth century. The story 
of James Blount, all that is known 
of him, is told by the men and women 
who knew him, and is comprised 
in the letters and journals of the 
Rowlestone family of Kirkstead, in 
Yorkshire, England. These papers 
have never been published; but the 
author, by permission of the present 
lord of the manor, here presents 
almost verbatim such letters as con- 
tained the story. 

Thus we have a strange story of 
real life, as it was depicted by the 
several members of a noted family 
in familiar letters, the writers of which, 
as the editor remarks, "were far 
more deeply interested in the doings 
of their own family than in the course 
of national affairs." 

Their narrative is, however, far more 
dramatic and not less interesting than 
the famous diaries of Pepys and Eve- 
lyn. But the book must be read, page 
by page, to be justly appreciated. 



Platfs 




The Odorless Disinfectant 

Blount 01^ BrECKENHOW. Bv Beu- Destroy disease germs. Sold in quart bottles only by drug- 

lah Marie Dix. Cloth. i2mo.' Price ^^^^^^^^^Bk^y ^'^^tK-^X^'^ 



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xiv 



Advertisements 



y »»»»t»j^»4frjfr****^*****»*»»**»^ 



CHILD REM, 



LTeethinc 



THE BEST OF ALL AND 

For over sixty years Mrs. Winslow's 
Soothing Syrup has been used by mothers 
for their children while teething. Are you 
disturbed at night and broken of your rest 
by a sick child suffering and crying with 
pain of Cutting Teeth ? If so, send at once 
and get a bottle of " Mrs. Winslow's Sooth- 
ing Syrup" for Children Teething. Its 
value is incalculable. It will relieve the 
poor little sufferer immediately. Depend 
upon it, mothers, there is no mistake 
about it. It cures diarrhoea, regulates the 
Stomach and Bowels, cures Wind Colic, 
softens the Gums, reduces Inflammation, 
and gives tone and energy to the whole 
system. *' Mrs. Winslow's Soothing Syrup " 
for children teething is pleasant to the taste 
and is the prescription of one of the oldest 
and best female physicians and nurses in 
the United States, and is for sale by all 
druggists throughout the world. Price, 
twenty-five cents a bottle. Be sure and ask 
for " Mrs. Winslow's Soothing Syrup." ^ 



S^999»4r^ 




Pleasing to the sight* to memory dear 



This Family Plate, bearing date of 
1856, now in possession of a third gen- 
eration has, so far as memory serves, 
always been cleaned and polished with 
Electro-Silicon (powder). To-day its bril- 
liancy equals that of the silversmith's 
finish, without scratch or blemish, its 
original weight being intact. 
The cardinal merit, brilliancy without abrasion, 
has made Electro-Sihcon famous around the world. 
At Grocers & Druggists and postpaid 15 cts. (stamps). 

ELECTRO-SILICON SILVER SOAP, 

for washing and polishing Gold, Silver and Glass- 
ware, has equal merits. Postpaid, 
15 CENTS PER CAKE. 

"Silicon," 30 ClifE Street, New York. 




Impor ted Quadruple-coated 

"^/>c Ware 



t 



iHat 'wears** 





When enamelled ware is offered to you as *' Im- 
ported," that's the tirrie to be careful ! 

ALL STRANSKY WARE is imported, but all 
imported ware is not Stransky. 




LASTS FOR YEARS. 

Used and recommended by the highest cooking 
authorities. 



STRANSKY <a CO., New York 




When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 



XT 



Household Hints 



Keeping in Condition 
To cure dyspepsia by means of ex- 
ercise, try punching a bag. Suspend 
it at a convenient height from the 
floor, to permit of pounding it vigor- 
ously, after the manner of a prize 
fighter. You must wear gloves to 
protect your knuckles. Twisting the 
body around in both directions from 
the waist is a good exercise for you. 
Leaning forward and then backward 
as far as possible, also to the right 
and to the left, is good practice. 

Interlock the thumbs, and with the 
knees straight, bend forward until 
the tips of the fingers touch the floor. 
Rise to an upright position, with the 
arms above the head. 

Besides curing your dyspepsia, these 
athletics should expand your chest, 
put roses in your cheeks and grace 
and vigor in every motion. Don't 
say that you are too weak and breath- 
less to take exercise. This is a de- 
lusion. The weakness and the quick 
and short respiration arise from want 
of exercise. The less exercise one 
takes, the less one is fitted for, and 
the more one needs it. Nerves will 
become disordered, the blood thick 
and sluggish, and muscles will grow 
flaccid without exercise. 



Why Tumblers are So Called 
How many times a day do we 
use words without stopping to think 
what they mean! Every day at 
luncheon and at dinner we drink out 
of a tumbler. But I, for one, never 
the ^,iit why the large glass that 
hoi our milk or water was so called, 
u^til once upon a time I happened 
to have luncheon at All Souls' Col- 
lege, Oxford, where the curiosity of 
all the strangers present was excited 
b • set of the most attractive little 
re nnd bowls of ancient silver, about 
the size of a large orange. These, 
we were told, were "tumblers"; and 
we were speedily shown how they 
came by their name. 

When one of these little bowls was 
empty, it was placed upon the table, 
mouth downward. Instantly, so per- 
fect was its balance, it flew back into 
its proper position, as if asking to be 
filled again. No matter how it was 
treated, — trundled along the floor, 
balanced carefully on its side, — up 
it rolled again, and settled itself, with 
a few gentle shakings and swayings, 
into its place. — Selected. 



About the time a man goes into poli-' 
tics his wife starts to keeping boarders. 




When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xvi 



Advertisements 



rawford ^^g^l 



Ji Crawford sent on 30 
dates' trial if there is no 
agent in t;our toWn. 

Send for neto 

Illustrated 

Circulars, 





The Best Oven. 

The best heated, most easily controlled is 
that of the Crawford Range. Extra large, 
with asbestos=lined back and improved 
heat-saving, cup-joint flues; five heights 
for (two) racks; an easy=to=read and 
reliable heat indicator; and a large 
"clean-out" plate in bottom for removing 
soot and ashes that often hinder bakingo 

The Single Damper (patented) controls fire 
and oven by one motion. It 
perfect regulation. 



msures 



Crawford Ranges are made in the Finest 
StoVe Factory in the World. 
WALKER & PRATT MFG. COMPANY. 

31-35 Union Street, 
Boston. 



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Household Hints 



Results of the New Food Inspec- 
tion Law 
Dr. Harvey W. Wiley, chief of the 
bureau of chemistry of the Depart- 
ment of Agriculture, reports that, 
as a result of the inspection of imported 
foods by his bureau under the new 
law authorizing the exclusion of im- 
pure or misbranded foods, twenty 
samples, or about lo per cent., of 
205 invoices examined, had been con- 
demned and rejected. Of these twenty 
samples five were of Rhine wine, 
and contained salicylic acid; two, 
of white wine, Sauterne, and con- 
tained sulphurous acid ; four, of olive 
oil, containing cotton-seed oil, and 
misbranded; three, of frankfurter sau- 
sage, containing harmful preservatives ; 
four, of vegetables in cans with lead 
tops, touching the food; one, of vine- 
gar, misbranded and made from dis- 
tilled alcohol; and one, of coloring 
matter for foods, in which coal-tar 
dyes were used. 



"Don't you like the 'Autocrat 
of the Breakfast Table,' Mr. Tink- 
ham?" asked a lady at a rural din- 
ner party. "Well, really," he re- 
plied, "I can't keep track of them 
foods. Maria," he called to his wife, 
"have we ever tried the water cracker 
of the break-fast table?" — Christian 
Register. 



The King's Coffee 

It is said that his Majesty King 
Edward is becoming an inveterate 
coffee-drinker. Wherever he goes, his 
Egyptian coffee-maker, Emin Abra- 
ham, follows with his little coffee 
mill, and after luncheon and dinner 
prepares a special brew for his Maj- 
esty and the fortunate few who are 
privileged to taste it. Emin is able 
to hold this little mill in his hands 
when grinding the berries, — a par- 
ticular kind, — and the coffee is served 
in very small cups which have almost 
the appearance of egg-cups. It is, 
of course, served by Emin himself 
in all the glory of Oriental drapery. 
The people who have tasted the king's 
coffee are very few, and not all of 
those admire the flavor of it, though 
none would dare to say so, knowing 
his Majesty has such a high opinion 
of its quality. 

A tourist in Ireland who stayed 
over night at a wayside inn not fre- 
quented by visitors informed the 
landlord in the morning that his boots, 
which had been placed outside his 
room door, had not been touched. 
"Ah, shure," said the landlord, "and 
you moight put your watch and chain 
outside your room door in this house, 
and they wouldn't be touched." — 
The King. 



lliliilKifiNE: 



Is recommended to all good cooks, because it is the easi- 
est to prepare and it makes the most and the best. Deli- 
cious with fruits. 

Send 13 cents and your grocer's name for full=sized 
two-quart package, with fine ** ilinute flan " Recipe 
Book. The book tells all about the famous "flinute** 
goods. 
Address Dept. S, WHITMAN GROCERY COMPANY, Orange, Mass. 




When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xviii 



Advertisements 



Table China and Glass 



Intending buyers will find an 
tensive stock to choose from in 



ex- 



Dinner Sets Salad Sets 

($8 up to 1800) ($5 up to ^150) ' 

Pudding Sets Ice Cream Sets 

(f 2 up to $20) ($3 up to S75) 

Fish Sets Oyster Plates 

($5 up to $120) ($3 up to $90 doz.) 

Also single dozens of highclass China 
Plates for course dinners ; also 

Bouillon Cups and Saucers 
Ramekins, all values 

French Porcelain SoufHe Dishes 
Paris Cafe Entre'e Dishes 
Covered Gorgonzola Dishes 
Fire-proof Welsh Rarebit Dishes 

In the enlarged Glass Department (2d 
floor) an Extensive Exhibit of 

Fine Table Glassware 

Finger Bowls, Vases, Cocktails, Roemers, 

Sorbets, Creme de Menthes, Cordials, 

Lemonades, Champagnes, 

Hocks, Decanters, 

Carafes, etc. 

Rare and odd China Pitchers from the 
ordinary up to the costly. Over 600 kinds 
to choose from. 

Toilet Sets, Cuspadores, Umbrella 
Holders, Flower Vases. 

In the Art Pottery Rooms will be seen 
an excellent exhibit of things adapted to 
Wedding Gifts, and in the Lamp Depart- 
ment (gallery) are attractive designs of all 
grades, from low cost to the costly ones. 

In the Dinner Set Hall (3d floor) will 
be seen an exhibit of large Turkey Platters 
for the Thanksgiving event. 

Every price marked in plain figures, and 
we are not undersold on equal wares if we 
know it. 

INSPECTION INVITED 



Jones, McDuffee & Stratton Co. 

CHINA, GLASS, AND LAflPS 

(SEVEN FLOORS) 

120 Franklin St., Corner Federal, Boston 

street cars marked Federal Street may be taken 
from either railway station to the door. 



O^ 



Any housewife is in Good Luck 
i/ji if she happens to know about \\\i 
*^\ and can get our delicious ^ /«^i^ 

WHITE 
HOUSE 



How is it with you, dear madam ? 
Do YOU know about it, and can 
you procure it at your grocer's ? 
" fp^bite House " Coffee is the best 
coffee obtainable. It is roasted and 
packed exclusively at our great Bos- 
ton plant, in one and two pound air- 
tight tin cans, and is so much nicer 
than ordinary coffees — so much richer 
in jia'vor arid aroma — so much 
more satisfactory, you really must 
make an effort, if necessary, to have 
your grocer sell it. " White House" 
Coffee is widely distributed, and thou- 
sands of retailers handle it, yet it may 
be possible you cannot find it readily, 
in which case be so kind as to write 
us, telling us your grocer's name, 
and we will see to it that you are 
supplied. 

DWINELL-WRIGHT CO. 

Principal Coffee Roasters 
Boston — '■ Chicago 



WUen you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xix 



Household Hints 




Fifty Cents an Egg, 

and Some Other Little Surprises of Hotel 
Charges Abroad 

"I have developed a lasting respect 
for the American egg,'' said a girl 
who has just returned from sight- 
seeing abroad, — "the plain, unvar- 
nished egg of the domestic fowl, served 
soft boiled at breakfast time, such as 
you can get anywhere in this country 
for a few cents. The breakfast egg 
is one of my staple foods at home. 
For some time I endured its non-ap- 
pearance across the water in silence. 
Finally, in Liverpool I called rashly, — 

' ' ' Waiter, be sure to bring me a 
soft-boiled egg with my breakfast.' 

"He brought it. Oh, yes, it was 
a very good egg; but what do you 
suppose it cost? 'One soft-boiled 
egg, two shillings,' — exactly forty- 
eight cents for one egg. I don't know 
whether the}' had to import the chicken 
to lay it or not; but, anyhow, I de- 
cided I wouldn't often give them so 
much trouble thereafter. 

"Your meal charges are full of little 
surprises like that. In this country 
the hotels give you ice to burn, so 
to speak, and charge you nothing. 
We had come down from Vesuvius, 
and came to our hotel in Naples, tired 
and hot. There was a very good din- 
ner, but only warmish stuffs to drink. 
We made it clear to the attendant 
that we would simply expire on his 
hands, if he didn't fetch some ice 
water, upon which he hurried away 
concernedly, and came back with a 
little dish of cracked ice and two 
glasses, for which thirty-three cents 
extra was charged. The funny thing 
was that you could have ice water 
brought to your room free; but, if 
you presumed to order it at the table, 
you were charged, — possibly because 
they don't like reflections cast upon 
the incompleteness of their menus. 

"It's queer, too, to have to ring 
up a maid and tell her every time you 
want to take a bath, and pay her 
{Continued on page xxii.) 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 



Advertisements 



DIAMONDS 

ON^REDIT 



\ 




1&^ 



ISi'llfc^M^ 



Diamonds on Credit rYtxEM"^'^ 



How To Do It 



means 

that any person of honest intentions, no matter how 
far away they may live, may open a Confidential 
Charge Account for a Diamond, Watch or other 
valuable article of jewelry, and pay the same in a 
series of easy monthly payments. 

Write today for our beautiful- 
ly illustrated Catalogue, and 
from it select any article that you would like to wear or 
own ; or, perhaps use as a gift to a loved one. We will 
send your selection on approval to your home, place of 
of business or express office as you prefer. Examine it 
as leisurely and as carefully as you wish ; then, if it is 
all that you anticipated, and .he best value you ever 
saw for the money asked — pay one-fifth of the price and 
keep it. The balance you may send us in eight equal 
monthly payments. 

On the Other Hand,i:„^:^tSy%''e°uS 

the article to us at our expense. Whether you buy or 
not, we pay all express and other charges — you pay noth- 
ing, neither do you assume any risk or obligation what- 
ever. We submit our goods on their merits, with abso- 
lute confidence that their quality, low price and our easy 
terms of payment will command your favor. We ask 
but one opportunity for adding your name to the largest 
list of pleased customers with which a Diamond house 
was ever honored. 



Wc arc the Largest House 

in the Diamond business. We are also one of the 
oldest — Est. 1858. We refer to any bank in America — 
ask your local bank how we stand in the business 
world. They will refer to their Commercial Agency 
books and tell you that we stand very high, and that 
our representations may be accepted without question. 

Our Guarantee Certificate, ^S 

every Diamond, is the broadest and strongest ever 
issued by a responsible concern. Further, we give the 
broad guarantee of complete satisfaction to every 
purchaser Our exchange system is the most liberal 
ever devised, for it permits you to return any Diamond 
bought of us, and get the full amquut paid in exchange 
for other goods or a larger Diamoiid. 

Your Christmas Plans cSS!.ie".?U! 

you have looked through our Catalogue, and con- 
sidered what you can do in gift-making in conjunction 
with the LOFTIS SYSTEM. The $5.00 which 
you might pay for something cheap and trashy, will 
make the first payment on, and put you in imme- 
diate possession of a splendid Diamond or Watch. 
You can thus make gifts that are commensurate with, 
and appropriate to the circumstances, without any con- 
siderable initial outlay. There can be no more favor- 
able time than the present for buying a Diamond. 
Prices are advancing steadily and a profit of 15 or 20 
per cent within a year seems assured. Dealers gener- 
ally agree in this prediction. 



To the Cash Buyer of Diamonds, 



we have a proposition to make which is thoroughly 
characteristic of our house. It is nothing less than a 

written agreement to return all that they pay for a Diamond — less ten per cent, at any time within one year. 

Thus, one might wear a fifty dollar Diamond for a whole year, then send it back and get $45.00, making the cost 

of wearing the Diamond less than ten cents per week. 



Write to-day 
for catalogue 



LOFTIS BROS. (Si. CO. 

Diamonds — Watches— Jewelry 
Dept. M 160 92 to 98 vState .St., CHicae'o, 111* 



When you write advertisers, 



)ase mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 
xxi 



Household Hints 




i 



THANKSGIVING CUTLERY 

as well as Spoons, Forks and fancy serving pieces bear- 
ing the complete trade-mark 

" 1847 ROGERS BROS." 

arethe best that money and long experience can produce, 
A supply of table silver for your own use or presentation 
purposes bearing this stamp carries with it a guarantee 
of many years of the most satisfactory service. Sold by 
leading"dealers. Ask for catalogue "K-8. " 

Meriden Britannia Co., C^E^X^e^^r) Meriden, Conn. 



NEW yOKK. 



HAMILTON, CANADJ 



Champion 

stove Clay. 

For Mending Cracks 
and Holes in the 
Stove Lining. 

NOTICE! 

We very much desire 
to hear from all persons 
who have ever used 
Champion Stove Clay. 
If you have been pleased 
with it, and if it has 
saved you money, we 
should be gratified to 
know it, and if you have 
failed to get the results 
expected we want surely to know that fact. 

Write us, please, and tell us of your experience : 
we'll return the postage to you and send you, 
free, a most interesting booklet, entitled 

" WHAT AILS THE STOVE,** 



Don't neglect the Stove Lining ; the 
Life of the Stove depends upon it. 




Bridgeport Crucible Co., Bridgeport, Conn. 



{Continued from page xx.) 
sixty cents every time, too, as we had 
to do in Rome. Folks who pin their 
faith to the daily tub at home learn 
to limit their ablutive aspirations at 
that price. 

"She leads you to a spacious room, 
containing a spacious tub, the bot- 
tom of which tub is covered with a 
fine linen sheet under water. There 
is also an extensive array of sheets 
spread over the floor, whether to save 
it or to protect your feet you don't 
know. This is all very nice, but 
hardly worth sixty cents. Apart from 
these preparations, it is just an ordi- 
nary tub bath, such as you might 
take in any hotel suite in America 
at considerably less cost. The Tiber 
is frightfully muddy, but there ought 
to be enough water in those famous 
old Roman aqueducts for poor tourists 
to wash and be clean without bank- 
rupting themselves. 

"Still," laughed the girl, "we gen- 
erally got the worth of our money 
in one way or other, as we said when 
we took a carriage in Florence to 
drive to a certain curio shop we had 
heard of. We were dashed furiously 
around for one hour and a half, and 
finally set down in front of the shop, 
to find ourselves within a block and a 
half of the spot from which we 
started." — Philadelphia Evening Bul- 
letin. 



"Dar' may be sunthin' in de theory 
of transmigrashun, but I see no occa- 
shun to worry ober de matter. vShould 
any of us be turned into a dawg in a 
fucher state, I hev no doubt dat bones 
will continer to be as plentiful as eber." 
— D etro it Free Press . 



BREAD MACHINE 

For Houshhold Usb. 
Sifts the flour and mixes lo pounds 
of best bread in three minutes. Sold 
subject to trial and approval. Send 
for Booklet. Agents wanted. 
Scientific Bread Machine Co. 

(Cyrus Chambers, Jr.) 
52d and Media Sts., Philadelphia 




When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xxii 



Advertisements 



RALSTONpSs 
WATERSTILL 




Rur^ Water 
or ? 

is an every-day question that needs an every-day 
answer, because life is as dependent on water as 
it is ori food. Water can only be pure in two ways, — 
as it falls from the clouds untainted by inorganic 
matter, or by taking it from the earth and removing 
its chemical impurities. Distillation is the one method 
scientists have found effectual in removing impurities 
from water. But distillation by ordinary methods 
leaves the water flat and insipid. 

The Ralston New Process Water Still is a 
wonderfully efficient device for obtaining pure water 
that is palatable and "fit to drink." The simplicity 
of the Ralston process adapts it to household use. It 
keeps a fresh supply of water constantly on hand. 
Incidentally, the Ralston Still produces 22 per cent, 
more water than any other still, not because it is 
larger, but because it does better work. 

Your name on a 
postal will bring 

our booklet, ^■j^minm Successors to 

Plam Facts on '^^^l nP^ A.R.Bailey 

the Water ■Kpl fl Mfg. Co. 

Question." — IE m '■ ^ „ 

1218 Broadway, 
New 
York 








OUR STORE 

is recognized throughout the 
country as the leading store 
of its kind. All goods we sell 
we guarantee to be of the 
best. 

We make a specialty of 
goods used and recommend- 
ed by Cooking Schools. If 
you want novelties for cook- 
ing consult our catalogues. 

Moulds, 
Vegetable Cutters, 

in all sorts of sizes and 
shapes and all kinds of uten- 
sils to use frr plain or fancy 
cooking. 

An immense viriety of im- 
ported and dotteitic ■ ovel- 
ties. 

F. A. Walker & Co., 

^^\ 83-85 Cornhill, Boston, Mass. 



Catalogue by Mail, 20c. 
Scolly Sq. Subway Station. 













s 


^p|v 



In the Preparation of Every Meal 

T^« "UNIVERSAL" FOOD CHOPPER 

Chops Everything for the Table. 
SAVES TIME, WORK, FOOD, MONEY. 

Sold by Hardware and Housefurnishing Stores 
"UNIVERSAL" COOK BOOK No. 6, SENT FREE. 

Landers, Frary & Clark, New Britain, Conn. 




ABSOLUTE PURITY 

IN KITCHEN UTENSII.S 

FREEDOM FROM POISON 
b hereby guaranteed 



MAKE 




KINDS 



The "Blue Label on e-Very piece protfej our 
jiatemeni. 

When you buy Kitchen-Ware, buy 

AGATE NICKEL-STEEL, 

LALANCE C^ GROSJEAN MFG. CO. 

New York Boston Chicago 



Wfieu you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 



Household Hints 



T>n<.E.CT 
OLIVE GROVE 



FR.OM THE 
TO YOU 




SYLMAR 

QLIVE OIL, 

FROM 

CALIFORNIA 

If you buy from us or from your dealer, you are sure 
of getting the very finest and purest olive oil direct trom 
our works in the grove where the olives grew and npenea. 
SylmarOhve Oil retains all the rich, fruity flavor ot su- 
perior Calitornia olives, and is sold under a S1,000 guar- 
antee of puiity. 

^ FOR MEDICINAL USES 

Two tablespoonfuls of Sylmar Olive Oil contains 
more nourishment ihan a pound of meat, because it is 
wholly assimilated without taxing the digestive organs, 
and is palatable. Our booklet gives physicians' direct ions 
for medicinal uses, cooking recipes, and Government 
recommendation. Booklet and sample bottle fo; 10 cents 
postage. ^^^ o/ DEALERS or DIRECT 

Send post-oftioe or express money order for g3, and we 
will deliver, prepaid, three 81 (quart) bottles at any ex- 
press office in the United States. Give dealer's name, and 
we will offer him an agency. , ^. 

Los Angeles Olive Growers' Association 
314 BrHdbury Block Los Angeles, Cal. 



EVERYBODY KNOWS 

. . . THAT ... 

FLEISCHMANN&GO.'S 
COMPRESSED YEAST 



-« 



HAKES THE 
BE5T BREAD 



Perhaps yoti don't know that it also 
makes the finest FANCY CAKE of 
numerous kinds. 

Send postal card to us at 701 Washing- 
ton St., N. Y. City, mention Boston 
Cookingf-School Magfazine, and we will 
send yoa a copy of out book ^CHOICE 
RECIPES'' free of cost. 



How to take Coffee 
The London Lancet commends the 
practice of drinking coffee after dinner, 
as coffee is an antidote to alcohol. 
Those whose digestions are disturbed 
by the use of hot coffee are advised 
to secure the advantages of its stimu- 
lating properties by taking it in the 
form of jelly. We are assured that a 
clear coffee jelly after dinner is every 
bit as good as the hot infusion, while 
it is free from some of its drawbacks. 
Coffee, unlike alcohol, diminishes or- 
ganic waste, rouses the muscular 
energy without the collapse which 
follows alcoholic imbibition, and gel- 
aline in the form of jelly is cooling, 
assuages thirst, is soothing, and has 
a tendency to absorb any excessive 
acidity of the stomach. 



"Dear," said the physician's wife, 
'when can you let me have $io?" 

"Well," replied the medical man, 
'I hope to cash a draft shortly, and 
then"— 

' ' Cash a draft ? What draft ? ' ' 

"The one I saw Mrs. Jenkins sitting 
in this morning. ' ' — Philadelphia Ledger. 



Watch Them Well 

There are four T^s too apt to run 
'Tis best to set a watch upon: 

Our Thoughts. 
Oft, when alone, they take them wings, 
And light upon forbidden things. 

Our Temper. 
Who in the family guards it best 
Soon has control of all the rest. 

Our Tongue. 
Know when to speak, yet be content 
When silence is most eloquent. 

Our Time. 
Once lost, ne'er found; yet who can say 
He's overtaken yesterday? 



These trade-mark 

GLUTE 

SPECIAL 
K. C.WHOL 

Unlike all ot! 

For 
farwell & Rhines 




lines on every package. 
For 
DYSPEPSIA. 

FLOUR. 
AT FLOUR. 

Ask Grocers, 
write 
:own.N.Y.«U.S.A. 



When you write advertisers, please meution The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 



XMV 



Advertisements 



Six 
Million 
Quarts 

OF 

Delicious 
Desserts 

AND 

Ice-cream 

were made in the 
past ye ar wi th 

Junket Tablets 

If you have never tried Junket, do so now. It is 
one of the most exquisitely delicious, smooth, and 
velvety desserts that mortal ever tasted. Send your 
grocer's address and your own, and we mail you, 
free, enough tablets to make two quarts ; or send ad- 
dresses of five friends and your grocer's, and we 
mail the samples and the charming booklet, " Daintv 
Junkets," FREE. 



Chf» Hansen 



s Laboratory, 

LITTLE FALLS, N.Y. 



Send us two new yearly 
subscriptions at ^i each, 
and we will renew your 
own subscription for one 
year free as premium. 

The Cooking-School Magazine 
Boston, Mass. 




Golden Grain 

As a food product corn is the most nutritious 
cereal grown. In the heart of the kernel is 
hidden the very elements of vim and vitality. 




— the pure extract of corn — is all the goodness 
of the kernel in a pure form. A table syrup not 
only delicious but nutritious. — makes you eat 
and makes strength. Good for every home use. 
10c. , 25c. and 50c. At all grocers. 
CORN PRODUCTS CO., New York and Chicago. 




When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Maqazini 



Household Hints 



C3@C3Q5QD5QQ^ i 



E Q^QQ^QQ^QOSg 



Ancient 
Kitchen Tools 

are all right for a museum. They 
have no place in the modern kitchen. 
It is just as reasonable to expect a 
harvest with a hand plow as good 
cooking from poor kitchen tools. 
We have a full supply of 

I Up=to=Date 
Kitchen Appliances. 

They save Time, Money, Labor, each 
one saving many times the cost of the 
Utensil. Call and look over our 
Stock. Inquiries cheerfully answered. 
Address 

LEWIS & CONGER, 

130=132 West 42nd Street, 
NEW YORK. 



Sawyer's 



Sold in 
Sprinkling 
Top Bottles. 




CRYSTAL 

BLUE 

Gives a 
beautiful tint 
to linens, 
laces, and re- 
stores the 
color to goods 
that are worn 
and faded. 

Be ture 

that you 

SAWYER'S 

45 YEARS THE PEOPLE'S CHOICE. 



Let's Pretend 

Let's pretend that you and I 
Have no real cause to cry 

At the stones that bruise us so 

In the pathway we are treading, — 
Tired, tired feet are treading. 
We are dancing as we go. 
Like we used to long ago. 
Let's pretend. 

But can you and I rejoice 
With the echo of that voice. 
With its mournful rise and fall, 
Calling, calling, calHng, calling? 
Hope is dead, — can it be calling? 
'Tis no voice we hear at all: 
'Tis a lonely bittern's call, 
Let's pretend. 

Does it matter, when 'tis done, 
If the race be lost or won? 

We have gained something, say I, 
If we've just been trying — 
Though our heart burst trying — 
I can look you in the eye! 
It will come right by and by. 
Let's pretend. 
— Edgar M. Dilley, in Chat. 



Little Barbara, on seeing a dish of 
quivering lemon jelly placed upon the 
table, exclaimed, "O mamma, see 
how nervous that jelly is!-" — Youth's 
Companion. 



"I heard her boasting that her 
dinner party was a success from the 
beginning and ended with the greatest 
'eclaw.' What's 'eclaw,' anyway?" 

"Why — er — that was the dessert, of 
course. Didn't you ever eat a choc- 
olate eclaw?" — Philadelphia Press. 



THE OLD RELIABLE 

DIXON'S "t:-" 

Stove Polish. 

Never turns Red or Rusts your Stoves. 
Jos. DixoN Crucible Co., - Jersey City, N.J. 



When you write advertisers, pleaee mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xxvi 



Advertisements 



DELICIOUS COFFEE 
EVERY DAY! 



You can have it wherever you are, if you use an 
" EXCERPTA " Coffee-pot. Made in one 
minute. Simply pour boiling water through 
the trap, and it's ready, — clear as wine, with a flavor 
surpassing anything you ever drank before. All aroma 
preserved, positively no odor of coffee until it is 
poured into the cup. 




If your dealer cannot supply you, send us his name, and 
we will send you a copy of a famous picture and facts 
about the " EXCERPTA." 

HOUSEHOLD HPO. CO., 790 Dun Building 
Buffalo, N.Y. 



Ma king 
Made 



Yh™ ''UNIVERSAL'' 
Bread Maker and Raiser. 

you can mix and knead Bread 

thoroughly in three minutes. 

Hands do not touch the dough. 

Does away with Hand Kneadina 

and makes Better Bread* 

Easy to clean. 

A child can work it 

' Sent anywhere in U. S. prepaid for $3.00. 
) Your dealer sells it for less? 

Write for Booklet C. sent Free. 
iNOERS. FRARY ft CLARK, New Britain, Conn. 




Wheu you write advertisers, please mention T;i 

xxvii 



iiosroN Cooking-School Mac.azine. 



Household Hints 




**I am tlie little cook. I can prepare JelNO 

as well as Mama. Just add a pint of boiling 
M^ater to the contents of a package and set to 
cool. Sometimes I serve it alone or with 
whipped cream. It is very nice when nuts, 
fresh or candied fruits are added." 

Four Fruit Flavors: Orange, Lemon, Rasp- 
berry or Strawberry. At grocers, everywhere. lOc. 
The Genesee Pure Food Co., LeRoy, N. Y. 



Oar subscribers occasionally send 
us the names and addresses of those 
whom they wish to receive speci- 
men copies of the Cooking-School 
Magazine. 

We are always pleased to send these 
promptly. 

Have YOU not neighbors and 
friends who would be interested in 
examining a copy of the magazine ? 
We should appreciate the favor of 
receiving the names and addresses 
of these — one or many — from 
you. 

The Boston 

Cooking-School Magazine 

Boston, Massachusetts 



An Economical Man 

A commercial traveller tells of a 
man who was riding on a train and 
pretended to become ill after eating 
a sandwich. The man opened his 
grip, and took out a hot water bag. 
"He got a sympathetic porter," the 
commercial man continues, "to fill 
the water bag with boiling water, and 
then he opened up his lunch basket, 
took out a piece of fried steak and 
warmed it up on the water bag. 
Talk about your light-housekeeping! 
Then, after he had warmed the steak, 
he cut it up with a pair of scissors, and 
fed it to himself with a pair of sugar 
tongs, because he w^ould not take a 
chance with a fork going round a 
curve. But his finish was a limit. 
After he had eaten the steak, he 
unscrewed the stopper of the water 
bag and poured himself out a cup of 
hot coffee. He had the grounds in the 
bag all the time." 



Charles Ivamb once declined to take 
rhubarb pie because rhubarb is physic. 
"But it is pleasant and innocent," 
said his host. "So is a daisy," re- 
joined lyamb, "but I don't like daisy 
pie." "Daisy pie' Whoever heard 
of daisy pies!" said some one at the 
table. "Shakespeare is my author- 
ity," said Lamb. "He expressly men- 
tions 'daisies pied.'" — Christian Reg- 
ister. 



ROSETTE IRONS 

50 cents, 
postage 20 cents 

These are the 
irons which 
lately have be- 
come so popu- 
lar among cooking teachers and in cooking 
schools in all parts of the country. For full 
particulars and also catalogue of other Scandi- 
navian and German cake irons, please address 
ALFRED ANDRESEN & COMPANY 
Department BC, Minneapolis, Minn. 
Lady agents can sell dozens among friends. 




When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xxviii 



Advertisements 




ILL FORGING AHEAP ! 

The sales of Magee Ranges are still forging 
ahead. "Where one Magee Range was sold a 
few years ago, a dozen are sold today. Fifty 
years ago the Magee Ranges were leaders. 
Today they are accorded the highest distinction 
ever given any Range — the preference of the 
majority. The reason is plain as ABC : — 

MAGBE 



GOLD 
-^ MEDAL 

Highest^ 
Award 

PARIS* 

Exposition 




Bake best, with the least trouble, in quickest 
time, consume the least coal and wear the 
longest. That's why the sales are still forging 
ahead and why all the 

Best CooKs 
Prefer tHe Magee. 

If your dealer values your trade he'll give 

you the best Range — he'll give you a Magee. 

Finely illustrated circular gives 

you a clever clew. It's free. 

Magee Furnace Co., Makers of Mag-ee Heaters 

and Ranges, 32-38 Union St., Boston, Mass. 



TAKE A THINK. 



What would you say if vou could COOK, BOIL, FRY, and 
WASH without any STEAM or ODOR escaping into the 

room, have your window-panes, paint, paper, and ceilings dry and unspotted, and NO SMELL from cabbage, 

onions, or other cooking in the house? 

You think it impossible, and would willingly give one hundred dollars for this happy state of living; yet 

J will guarantee to do it for $2.75, the price of HUQMES A.UTOMATIC STEA.M: and ODOR CON- 

J>T7CTOIt, or money refunded. 

TESTED by 

The Boston 
Cooking School, 
372 Boylston 
Street, Boston. 
The New 
England School 
of Cooking, 
73 Worthington 
Street, 

Springfield, Mass. 
C. E. Coe, 
Sanitary Engi- 
neer and President 
State Plumbers' 
Association, 
New Haven, 
Conn. 



INDORSED 
by 

Mrs. Janet 
McKenzie Hill. 

Miss 

Katherine A. 
French, 
Park chef- 
d'ceuvre. 

Mrs. Sarah 
Tyson Rorer, of 
the Ladies' 
Home Journal^ 
says : — 

" Your invention 
should be 
received with open 
arms by the vast 
army of people." 




BOOKLET 
FREE 

Write for 
testimonials. 



All Steel and Irow. Last a lifetime. 



THE object of my invention is to discharge into the stove all fumes, vapors, and odors produced in cooking, 
so they will be carried up the flue by the draft. I pay the expressage and deliver the whole apparatus, 
cooking ntensil covers, connecting pipes, and steam receiver, on receipt of the factory price, $2.75, and guaran. 
tee COMPLETE IMMUNITY from steam or odor, or refund the money. 

J^^" A gents wanted in every town. 
Write GEORGE W. H. HUGHES, Manufacturer and Inventor, . . ... . . New Haven, Con». 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 



Household Hints 



g TOURNADE'S 

KITCHEN BOUQUET 




^o Years .«9i^^ a Favorite ! 

For SOUPS, SAUCES, GRAVIES, 
ROASTS, STEWS, ENTREES 

AND GENERAL CULINARY PURPOSES! 

Imparts a Rich Color and Delightful Flavor. The i 
Kitchen Garden Condensed and Ready for Instant f 
Use. Keeps in Any Climate. Used and endorsed by j 
Great Chefs and Eminent Teachers of Cookery. 

" Housekeeping would be a burden without it."— Sarah 1 
Ttson Roker. I 

" I know of no otber kitchen luxury which is so near a | 
necessity."— Helen Aemstrong. 

"Invaluable to the housekeeper."— Mart J. Lincoln. 

" Indispensable to all savory dishes."— Janet M. Hill. 

" Indispensable to all up-to-daie housekeepers."— Al.ce j 
Gary Waterman. 

" Have used it lor last ten years and would not be with- 
out it."— Emily M. Colling. 

"A necessity to all good cooking."— E. LaPerruque, 
Head Chef, Delinonlco's. 

If your grocer doesn't keep it, insist on his getUng it for yon. 
WRITE FOR FREE SAMPLE AND BOOK LET \ 
Send 30 cents in stamps tor prepaid package 



The PALISADE MANUFACTURING CO. 

251 Clinton Avenue, West Hoboken, N.J. \ 

N.B. — The word "Kitchen Bouquet" is exclusively 
trade-mark. Infringements will be prosecuted. 




S T A N D ARD 

ROTARY SHUTTLE 
Sewing Machines 

Do both lock and chain stitch work. 

We aim to make the finest machines 

in the world. We employ no agents 

or canvassers, and do not send machines 

out on suspicion. 

We rent, repair, and sell for cash or 

on rental-purchase plan. 
SPECIAL NOTICE. "Stitchwbll" ^A ^C 
small hand machines for travellers . . *P »•' v 
Write for circularst 

STANDARD SEWING MACHINE CO. 

GENERAL OFFICES, 

173 Tremont St., Boston 

Write for elegant 50-page catalogue 
and mention this magazine. 



One Prayer 

Let me work and be glad, 

Lord, and I ask no more; 

With will to turn where the sunbeams burn 
At the sill of my workshop door. 

Aforetime I prayed my prayer 

For the glory and gain of earth ; 
But now, grown wise and with opened eyes, 

1 have seen what the prayer was worth. 

Give me my work to do. 

And peace of the task well done; 

Youth of the spring and its blossoming, 
And the light of the moon and sun.. 

Pleasure of little things 

That never may pall or end, 
And fast in my hold no lesser gold 

Than the honest hand of a friend. 

Let me forget in time 

Folly of dreams that I had; 
Give me my share of a world most fair, — 

Let me work and be glad. 

Theodosia Garrison, in Independent. 



At Charlie's birthday party John 
conducted himself with a propriety 
that would have surprised his mother, 
while the little host behaved shock- 
ingly. "Charles," said his mother 
at last in despair, "just see how pret- 
tily Johnnie behaves. What will he 
think of 3^ou?" "Never mind, Mrs. 
Jones," John said loftily. "He's only- 
trying to show off. That's just the 
wav / act when I'm home." 



Minister. "Have you ever cast 
your bread upon the waters?" Mrs. 
R. (proudly). "Never since my first 
batch." — Christian Register. • 



Teacher: "what is an Indian's wife 
called?" Pupil: "A squaw." Teacher: 
"Correct. Now what is an Indian's 
baby called f*" Pupil: "A squawker." 



Send To"da3^ for THis 

SCIENTIFIC GRIDDLE GREASER 

Cleanly, scientific. Does 
the work in halt the time 
and better than by any 
other method. 

Fine catalog 0/ excellejit household specialties FREE. 
EICH nPQ. CO., 701 Hamlin Ave., Chicago. III. 




When you write advertisers, please mention Thb Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

XXJl 



Advertisements 




SHREDDED H^EJO' 



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Household Hints 





THE BREAST FOR 
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Dept. B. 



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DR. STEDMAN'S 

^ Teething Powders -^ 

Used by mothers tlie world over for nearly half a centmy. 
Not a soothing remedy, but a Teetliiner Powder, abso- 
lutely safe and harmless. Dr. Arthur H. Hassall, of the 
Analytical Institution, London, England, in Ms report on 
these Powders, writes : '•' Absolutely free from morphia or 
any other alkaloid or constituent of opium. Thus Sted- 
man's Teetliing Powder is favorably distinguished from 
similar preparatiovs." — Arthur H. Hassall, M. I>. 

A Kum laneet, the trademark, is on every packet and 
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duces the cost to 25 cents for a packet of TgADET^'^^AHWi 
nine powders. Atmost druggists or mailed <3!EEIII^» 
on receipt of price. 

Book of testimonials and Dr. Stedman's Pamphlet, 
" The Nursery Doctor," sent free on request. Address 
J. G. MaeW ALTER, Germantown, Phila., Pa. 

Home Office, 125 New North Road, Hoxton, London, Eng. 

Kindly mention this paper. 



The Utility of the Measuring 
Spoon 

is so obvious in these days of domestic 
science in which our most noted cook- 
ing-school teachers teach, especially 
of correct measurement in cookery, 
it seems hardly necessary to make 
comment. 

Many of our good ladies, both the 
young unmarried miss and the house- 
wife, attend cooking-school demon- 
strations and lectures, and listen at- 
tentively to all their expert teachings, 
that correct measurement will insure 
perfect results, and not guess-work, 
and yet some of them go home to 
their cooking and guess in the same 
way their mothers did, and then won- 
der why their cooking is not just 
what they expected from the recipe. 
How can you expect even passably 
good cooking when you are following 
a recipe that calls for one-fourth a tea- 
spoonful of this, a tablespoonful of 
that, and a teaspoonful of something 
else, and you guess at it all? 

The Original Measuring Spoons are 
the standard. The basis is sixty 
drops of distilled water, which forms 
the true teaspoonful. 

These spoons are in sets of three, 
connected by a swivel. One meas- 
ures one-fourth a teaspoonful, another 
one-half a teaspoonful, and still an- 
other a full teaspoonful. By filling 
the large spoon twice you have a des- 
sert spoonful. Fill it four times for 
a tablespoonful. 

If you will take the trouble to look 
in your cook-book, you will find about 
75 per cent, of all recipes written call 
for spoon-measure in part or whole; 
and you can be sure that the writers 
of them would wax wroth if you 
guessed at the quantities. Many a 
good recipe is ruined by guess-work. 

The Original Measuring Spoon can 
be bought at all dealers. They cost 
but a trifle ; and, if you don't possess 
them, just put them on your want list 
now. 



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|$1.00 A YEAR 



lO CENTS A COPY 



THEy BOSTON ' 

CGDKING-SCHGDL 
MACAZIKEy 





OF CUMNAKY^^OIE/KCE^ AND 
DOMiySTIC E/OOKOMIOSl 



VOL. VIII 




No. 5 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 
372 Boylston Street, Boston, MassacHusetts 



jnght, 1903, by the Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



Entered at Boston Post-office as second-class matter 



vtt^ 



^ 



Cc^oa 



A perfect beverage— rich 
in nitrogenous elements. 



A Makes a success of any Soup, 
Sauce, or Salad Dressing. . . . 

McILHENNY'S 
TABASCO. 

The perfection of flavor, the 
epitome of strength. Avoid 
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the original Mcllhenny's, made 
at New Iberia, Louisiana. 
Booklet containing recipes on 
request. 



E. M 


cIlhenny's 


Son, 


New 


Iberia, 


Louisiana. 


Boston 


Office, 42 


Central 


Street. 






FOOD MADE WITH 

^^^a Mrs. LINCOLN^S 

BAKING POWDER 

Is finer grained, sweeter, more 
healthful, and keeps moist 
longer than that raised by the 
more rapid action of powders 
containing other acids. 



|iS°STON.MAiS,V, 



BOSTON, MASI. 



Grocers 



It 



AFTER MANY YEARS' EXPERIENCE,! 

AM CONVINCED THAT A PURE CREAM OF , 

TAflTAR BAKIN6 POWDER IS THE BESTi 

QUICK LEAVENINd AGENT, AND IS Aj 

WHOLESOME FOOD ADJUNCT. 

I GUARANTEE THAT THIS POWDER, 
PREPARED AFTER MY FORMULA, CON- 
TAWS ONLY THE HIGHEST POSSIBLE 
GRADE OF CREAM OF TARTAR AND 
CARBONATE OF SODA, WITH THE SMALL- 
EST PERCENTAGE OF CORN STARCH 
NECESSARY FOR ITS PERFECT KEEPING. 
AS LONG AS MY SIGNATURE.APPEAR3 
ON THESE LABELS, HOUSEKEEPERS MAY ^ 
BE SURE THAT THIS FORMULA WILL BE 
FOLLOWED IN THE MANUFACTURE OF 
THIS BAKING POWDER. 



Office 

21 

Commerce 
Street 
Boston 
None genuine vnthout Mrs. Mary J. Lincoln's signature 



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'j %\t Pm-iist Jfrast of |.U l^e |mr 




Lo, Txa^ is come our joytul'st feast 1 

Let every man be jolly. 
Each roome with yvie leaves is drest, 

And ^\fe.Y)j post with holly. 
Now all our neighbors' chimneys smoke, 

And Christmas blocks are burning ; 

Their ovens they with bakt meats choke, 

And all their spits are turning. 

Old Song, 



The 
Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



Vol. VIII. 



DECEMBER. 



No. 5. 




Mrs. Roosevelt's New White House China 



^^White House Table Appointments'' 

By Waldon Favvcett 



NEVER before in its history 
has the Presidential man- 
sion at Washington been so 
lavishly provided as at present with 
table ware of all kinds. That ade- 
quate appointments of this kind are, 
however, essential is very apparent 
in view of the increasing number of 
official or semi-official dinners held 



at the WTiite House each season, and 
the more than proportionate increase 
in the number of guests who must of 
necessity be bidden to these repasts. 
Notably is this true in the case of 
the dinners to the diplomatic corps, 
attendance at which is not depend- 
ent so much upon the preferences 
of the President' as upon the number 



^34 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



of envoys of foreign governments 
stationed at the American capital. 

A notable domestic achievement 
on the part of the present mistress 
of the White House is found in the 
acquisition of sufficient china of uni- 
form design to meet all the exactions 
of the largest dinner which the Presi- 
dent may desire to give. Not in 
that the White House china closets 
were bare and barren wastes pre- 
vious to the arrival of Mrs. Roose- 
velt have her contributions of china 
been notable, but from the fact that 
she has been instrumental in the se- 
curance of a large service in which, 
of course, uniformity of decorative 
design prevails. 

In order that readers may under- 
stand the problem which confronted 
Mrs. Roosevelt, when she essayed 
to take up the duties of first hostess 
of the land, it may be explained that 
each four-year queen who graces the 
White House by her presence has 



mains as the property of the gov- 
ernment. As it happened, however, 
neither Mrs. Cleveland nor Mrs. Mc- 
Kinley availed herself of the oppor- 
tunity to order a full new service, 
but was content to order small lots 
of plates, cups and saucers, of varied 
design, as occasion demanded. On 
the other hand, the complete ser- 
vices ordered by Mrs. Roosevelt's 
earlier predecessors — Mrs. Dolly Mad- 
ison, Mrs. Lincoln, Mrs. Grant, Mrs. 
Hayes, and Mrs. Harrison — had, by 
virtue of long-continued usage, be- 
come sadly depleted. Thus the pres- 
ent mistress of the White House was, 
upon the assumption of her new du- 
ties, confronted with the necessity 
of calling into requisition remnants 
of several different services, when- 
ever her distinguished husband en- 
tertained a dinner party of eighty 
or ninety persons. To relieve this 
embarrassing situation, Mrs. Roose- 
velt determined to exercise her pre- 




McKlnley Cups and Saucers, Lincoln Fruit Basket, Grant Cake Baskets 



the privilege of ordering a complete 
new dinner service, should she so 
desire, in conformity with her indi- 
vidual taste; and this china is not 
removed to her own home when her 
husband retires from office, but re- 



rogative, and order a new service 
that should be of ample size, allow- 
ing for breakage, to meet all require- 
ments for some time to come. 

The new Roosevelt service, which 
was made at the Wedgwood potter- 



White House Table Appointments 



'^^^S 



ies in England, has all the dignity wise, bears the Great Seal, and, Hke 
that should attach to table ware de- all the pieces ordered by Mrs. Lin- 
signed for use at the nation's most coin, is ornamented in maroon. The 
important banquets; and the forms fruit baskets of the Lincoln service 




Cut Glass, White House 



of the various pieces, in the decora- 
tive designs, have been fully protected 
by patent, and thus reserved for the 
exclusive use of the Executive Man- 
sion. The choice of the new china 
was made from seventy-eight differ- 
ent and exclusive designs that were 
submitted to Mrs. Roosevelt. The 
pattern is colonial, and the entire 
ornamentation is in gold, save the 
enamelling in color of the Great Seal 
of the United States, which appears 
on every piece. The new service 
consists of one hundred and ten 
dozen, or 1,320 pieces. 

Although the provision of this new 
china is destined to do away with 
the hodge-podge of assorted china 
in dissimilar styles of decoration, 
which formerly constituted an affront 
to persons of aesthetic taste, many 
historic pieces of the old Wliite House 
china will yet continue in use. One 
of these is the immense punch-bowl 
of the Lincoln service: this, hke- 



are yet in use, as are also one or two 
of those of the "flower set," orna- 
mented in yellow, which constituted 
Mrs. Grant's contribution to the White 
House china. 

Mrs. Roosevelt, on the occasion 
of small dinners at the White House, 
sometimes instructs the steward to 
use portions of the wonderful, 
hand-painted china service secured 
by Mrs. Hayes at a cost of several 
thousand dollars, a considerable por- 
tion of which has escaped the rav- 
ages of time and careless servants. 
Every specimen of the entire Hayes 
service has a different ornamentation, 
representing the fauna and flora of 
America. Likewise use is made oc- 
casionally at Mrs. Roosevelt's lunch- 
eons of the plates ornamented in 
blue and gold, which constituted one 
of Mrs. Cleveland's chief purchases, 
and there have been several functions 
when the table appointments included 
the Haviland plates, cups and saucers, 



236 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



delicately decorated in pink, which 
were chosen by Mrs. McKinley. 

Highly artistic, indeed, is the cut- 
glass service in use at the White 
House. It consists of upward of 
six hundred separate pieces, and 
was specially ordered by the govern- 
ment for the Executive Mansion. 
On almost every piece of the service, 
from the mammoth punch-bowl to 
the tiny salt-cellars, is engraved the 
coat-of-arms of the United States. 
This service, which constitutes the 
nucleus of the present collection of 
cut glass at the White House, cost 
$6,000, and many additions have 
since been made to the accumula- 
tion. Many of these odd pieces, 
such as the decanters of the pure 
colonial design, do not, of course, 
bear the representation of the Great 
Seal. The White House stemware, 
including water goblets, champagne 
glasses, claret glasses, glasses for 
white wine and tiny cordials, is sym- 
metrical in design and very daintily 
ornamented. 

The gold and silver plate in use on 
the President's table, embracing, as 
it does, contributions by many dif- 
ferent administrations, is much va- 



ried in style and design. Almost 
every piece of the plate bears the 
inscription "President's House." 
Many of the pieces have a represen- 
tation of the American eagle promi- 
nently included in the ornamenta- 
tion: among these are immense tu- 
reens which were rescued from the 
attic by Mrs. Harrison, and have 
been in constant use ever since. The 
forks and spoons of the White House 
service are of very conventional de- 
sign; but the knives are distinctly 
unique. One set of knives consists 
of quaintly fashioned gold blades 
supported by pearl handles. 

Many "show pieces," for use in 
the ornamentation of the table, are 
included among the treasures in the 
store-rooms of the White House stew- 
ard. The most massive of these 
is a rectangular "plateau," — a gold 
framed mirror, which can be shortened 
or lengthened according to the size 
of the table, and the purpose of 
which is to simulate a lake in the 
middle of the banquet board. This 
heirloom was purchased in France, 
by order of Dolly Madison, three- 
quarters of a century ago. Another 
similar centre-piece is a silver canoe. 




Full set Stem Ware, White House 



White House Table Appointments 



237 



four feet in length, representing the 
birch-bark craft of Hiawatha, which 
was purchased by Mrs. Grant at the 
Centennial for use on the occasion of 



State banquets. Yet another trophy 
is a full-rigged ship, constructed of 
silver and glass: this was chosen by 
the late President McKinley. 




A Modern Dining Room 



Courtesy of Henry A. Turner Co. 



Good-bye, 



Good-night, and wings of angels 
Beat round your little bed, 

And all white hopes and holy 
Be on your golden head! 

You know not why I love you. 
You little lips that kiss ; 

But, if you should remember. 
Remember me with this: 



He said that the longest journey 

Was all on the road to rest; 
He said the children's wisdom 

Was the wisest and the best. 

He said there was joy and sorrow 
Far more than the tears in mirth, 

And he knew there was God in heaven 
Because there was love on earth. 

Rcnncll Rodd. 



a Ci^riistmajs Carol 

^^ H R I S T I A N people, 
l y^^l come and sing, 

Hope and joy receiving! 
Tell of him who is our King, — 

Still his words are living ! 
Proud or humble, rich or poor, 

Christmas opens wide your 
door. 
From each heart its blessings 
pour, — 

The joy of joys is giving ! 



?} 



m 



Christian people, sing ye now ! 

Earnest voices raising. 
Sing good will to earth below, 
Which, like heav'n, is prais- 
ing! 
Proud or humble, rich or poor, 
Christmas opens wide your 
door. 
From each heart its blessings 
pour, — 
The joy of joys is giving ! 



ffr\y 



h« 



I 



li 



How Santa Glaus came to Suey Hip 

A Christmas Story for Children 
By Jessie Juliet Knox 



SUEY HIP was a little Chinese 
girl, who lived in America. She 
did not have a bright, cheerful 
home, but lived in a cellar, with steps 
going down from the street. It was 
dark and smoky down there; but of 
course it did not seem so bad to little 
Suey Hip as it would to those who 
have always had a nice home, because 
she had never known anything else. 
vSometimes the children of a wealthy 
Chinese merchant would toddle by, 
in their richly embroidered robes. 
Their feet were so small they could 
hardly walk. Suey Hip would sit 
on the top of the steps, and, when 
she wished, play on the pavement 
in front of her home. And, oh, how 
she did long for some of those pretty 
garments ! But her Mo Chun (mother) 
worked very hard to get what they 
had, by sewing for the Chinese stores; 
and so it seemed there was no way 
to get anything more than she had. 

Now one day, when Suey Hip sat 
on the steps sunning herself and look- 
ing with longing eyes at the people 
as they passed, there came a little 
American girl, walking with her papa, 
through the streets. Suey Hip was 
very bashful, and hung her head and 
scraped her little sandals on the pave- 
ment, as they paused before her. 
"Hello, little one!" said the man, 
in such a kind voice that Suey Hip 
looked up, and, as she did so, caught 
sight of something in little Doro- 
thy's arms which put her little moth- 
erly heart all in a glow, and she no 
longer felt afraid. 

What was it she saw? Why, just 
the loveliest big doll, with eyes that 



opened and shut; and it was dressed 
all in pink silk. Oh, the wonder and 
delight that sparkled in the dark eyes 
as she gazed! It seemed too beauti- 
ful to be anything but a dream; and 
she gasped, as she looked into the 
sweet face of little Dorothy: "Oh, 
what is it? Where you catch 'em?" 

Dorothy laughed, as she replieci, 
"Why, this is my doUie: Santa Claus 
brought it to me last Christmas." 

"Sanny Claw? Who Sanny Claw? 
What's Chlismas?" eagerly inquired 
the child. 

"Don't you know what Christmas 
is?" asked Dorothy. "Why, Christ- 
mas comes once every year, and is the 
loveliest time of all the year. Then 
we hang up our stockings, and in the 
night, while we are asleep, Santa 
Claus comes down the chimney and 
fills our stockings with the loveliest 
things, — dolls and toys and candy, — 
and, oh, just everything!" All this 
time Dorothy's papa stood listening 
in amused silence, as he thought it 
best to let the children carry on the 
conversation in their own way. 

"Oh," said the astonished Suey 
Hip, "I wish I was you. Sanny Claw 
no come here. We no have Chlismas. 
You think he evep come — bling me 
doll?" 

Just then Dorothy's papa spoke, 
and said : " I tell you what to do. You 
get your mamma to write a note, in 
Chinese, to Santa, and we will come 
to-morrow and get the note; and I 
will see that Santa Claus gets it. It 
is just one month till Christmas now; 
and who knows what riuiy happen 
in that time?" 



240 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



"You come again to-mollow ? "■ eag- 
erly inquired the child; and Dorothy 
said, "Yes, — yes, — we will, won't we, 
papa?" 

"Yes, dear, we will come again to- 
morrow." 

When they had passed out of sight 
along the narrow streets, Suey Hip 
toddled down the steps into the dark 
cellar she called home, and, going to 
her mother, who sat sewing by a 
tiny, latticed window, she exclaimed : 
"O Mo Chun! little 'Melican girl, she 
say Sanny Claw come every year, 
bling doll, bling candy, toy, ev'vy- 
thing. She say you lite note to Sanny 
Claw, tell him come bling me doll 
Chlismas." 

After a great deal of explanation 
she made her little brown mother 
understand; and, though she herself 
could not really believe that anything 
so nice could happen to her child, yet 
she had a mother's tender heart, and 
was willing to do all the child asked 
of her. So she left her work, and 
went to a little table, where there 
were some queer-looking writing ma- 
terials, Suey Hip watching her eag- 
erly all the while, and, taking up a 
long sharpened stick, she dipped it 
into some black paste, and began to 
make queer Chinese letters up and 
down the long slip of red paper. After 
much effort it was finished, and given 
to Suey Hip. .She placed it carefulh 
in a little Chinese vase, and went out 
again to play on the streets. She 
was so excited that night that she 
could hardly eat her supper of rice 
and tea and little sweetened cakes. 
She was almost too excited to bum 
her incense before the little god in 
the comer; but she managed to get 
through with it, and was then put to 
bed. 

Next day at the same hour Suey 
Hip's face had been scrubbed until 
it fairly shone, and her thick black 



hair was pasted down and braided 
into a long cue, and she wore her best 
trousers and blouse of dark blue silk 
and little red sandals. Suey Hip 
was very much dressed up. The 
shy little mamma, who had also come 
out on the pavement to watch, put 
her fan up to hide her face, when she 
saw them coming, and quietly as a 
mouse slipped down the stairs again. 
At last they came, and Suey Hip 
eagerly handed them the note which 
was to mean so much to her. Doro- 
thy's mamma had come with them 
this time; and, when she caught a 
glimpse of the timid little Chinese 
mother, peeping eagerly up at them, 
with her kind, woman's heart she 
stepped down into the dark cellar, 
and stretched out both hands to meet 
the little brown hands of the mother. 
She managed to make herself under- 
stood, and there was a good deal of 
low talking and many mysterious signs 
between the two mothers, but they 
understood, as mothers will; and 
papa pretended he did not see and 
hear. Dorothy told Suey Hip that 
it was just a month till Christmas, 
and that would not be very long, — - 
just four little weeks, — it would soon 
pass. Then Mrs. Suey shyly asked 
them, in her pretty, little Chinese way, 
to come in and have a cup of tea. 
The tea was the best they had ever 
tasted, made in the cunningest little 
bowls without any handles. 

After that there were a great many 
calls from Dorothy and her mamma, 
and a great deal more of that mys- 
terious whispering between the two 
mammas, until, at last, it was an- 
nounced that the very next day would 
be Christmas. "Oh, too good! too 
good!" said little Suey Hip, as she 
toddled around, too delighted to be 
quiet one minute. 

It seemed as if the day would never 
pass; but after a while the shadows 



How Santa Claus came to Suey Hip 



24 



began to fall on the narrow streets, 
and the big dragon lanterns were 
lighted, making everything so beau- 
tiful. And Suey Hip knew that she 
was the only child in all the' big China- 
town who would hang up her stock- 
ings that night. 

The hour had come. She got out 
her very best pair of cream-colored 
stockings, and with trembling little 
brown fingers hung them securely 
to the foot of her hard bamboo couch, 
and was soon in the land of dreams. 
Her dreams were all about Santa 
Claus, and he looked just as Doro- 
thy had said, in his fur robes and 
with rosy cheeks and long white 
whiskers. 

In the midst of her dream she 
awoke with a start. She wondered 
if he had been here yet. It was so 
dark; but, oh, she felt as if she just 
couldn't wait. But she knew Mo 
Chun was tired, and she did not wish 
to awaken her. So she crept — oh, 
so softly!— to the foot of the bed, and 
groped around in the dark for her 
stockings. Once she almost fell off 
the bed; but finally her little hands 
found what she sought, and she felt 
the stockings. They were all lumpy 
and fat. What could be in them? 
In the top of one she felt something 
large, something with hands and 
feet and hair. O joy! could it be, 
could it be? But she must wait and 
see. Oh, how glad she was when 
she heard Mo Chun moving, and saw 
the first glimmer of the day steal into 
their cellar home! With one bound 
she was out of bed, and Mo Chun was 
as glad as she ; for really and truly, in 
the dark night, the 'Melican Sanny 
Claw" had by some means crept down 



there, and just filled her stockings 
with good things. And the thing 
with hands and feet and hair was a 
real doll, with big blue eyes that 
opened and shut, and yellow hair and 
a blue silk dress. It had on the dear- 
est little shoes, and ear-rings, and 
bracelets, and a necklace, and a nice 
big hat. Oh, how she hugged it to 
her heart; she could scarcely bear 
to put it down long enough to see 
what else there was! Not only were 
the stockings full, but there were 
lovely things all around. There was 
the dearest little tnuik for dollie, all 
full of pretty dresses and wraps, and 
another little sunbonnet and hat for 
every day. And there was doll fur- 
niture, and the daintiest set of doll 
dishes. It seemed to the poor little 
Chinese girl that she had everything 
in the world there was to have; and 
—what do you suppose? — poked in 
through the little lattice window they 
found a package, and on it the words : 
"For Mamma Suky, from Santa 
Claus." 

And, when her little brown hands 
had eagerly opened it, what should 
she find but a whole lot of gold money ! 
Oh, how happy she was! Now she 
would not have to work so hard, and 
strain her eyes at night by the dim 
candle. Now they could have some 
pork whenever they wished, and she 
pictured all the happiness they would 
get out of this yellow gold. 

When Dorothy's papa and mamma 
came that day, they found the hap- 
piest hearts in the whole big city ; and, 
when they saw the joy that had come 
into this little cellar home, they were 
so glad that they had given the note* 
to dear old "Sanny Claw." 




A Christmas Trio 



By Kate Gannett Wells 



SHE was only a teacher in the 
kitchen laboratory of a public 
school, but she was thirty years 
old and had been at it for eight years, 
and did not like it any better than 
when she first began. The secret de- 
sire of her heart was, as it had ever 
been, either to be at the head of an 
orphan asylum or — to be married. 
That is, she wanted some one to need 
her rather than for her to need some- 
body; and, though the principal of 
the school and her friends would have 
missed her if she had stepped out, 
they did not need her, places are so 
easily filled. Just to earn your daily 
bread and put nothing into a home is 
lonely work. 

People advised Miss Fitz to marry, 
in the same general way with which 
a journey to the moon might be sug- 
gested. Each one said that chances 
grew slimmer as one grew older, or 
that she was too young to be the 
matron of an asylum. She rebelled 
against the tyranny of women's friend- 
ships a deux, and disbelieved in the 
graded system, because it never let 
children germinate under one teacher, 
but insisted on epochal transitions, 
pupils being sent tagged from one 
room to another. Just as she would 
begin to understand why family con- 
ditions made it expedient that one 
child should learn to prepare Hamburg 
steaks and another should make jel- 
lies or soups, the girl would be trans- 
ferred, and Miss Fitz's personal in- 
terest would flag. 

Then she tried to stimulate it 
afresh by working over chafing-dishes 
in her little fiat, and carrying the re- 
sults of her endeavors to the meagre 
table of some former pupil. But 



charity palled. She craved a kitchei? 
range and a household of her own. 
with economy to practise for its sake 
and dietaries to concoct for an invalid 
husband or sickly orphans. The next 
day, Christmas, would again find her 
a self-supporting, lonely young woman 
with many friends, but with no one 
dependent on her. 

She took up her address book, as 
she sat alone on Christmas Eve over 
the furnace register, and scanned the 
list of her male friends, — a circle that 
was lessening with her advancing 
years. As she studied their names, 
she recalled the probabilities which 
once attached to them. One per- 
haps she might have married; one 
she would not; most were merely 
comrades; and so on. And then, 
weary with might-have-beens, she 
longed afresh for some one to whom 
she could wholly give herself. If 
she taught school solely for the love 
of it, that would have been giving 
herself; but she didn't. 

To-morrow was Christmas, the day 
on which God had given, hidden in 
babyhood, a great hfe to the world. 
Giving was the secret of hving, — not 
the giving of things, but of one's self. 
She herself was an orphan. Before 
she took care of herself, she had 
taken care of others. All that was 
long ago. Oh, if she were only 
needed! If she could just give her- 
self! — not her day's hours, but her 
soul, to somebody or somebodies ! 
To give, to give, be it ever so little, 
but to give freely, joyously, that was 
all she craved. To be so situated 
that she ought to w^ork for another 
at the risk of her hfe rather than to 
keep on being prudent, just that she 



A Christmas Trio 



243 



might not miss the next day's school 
work, which any one on the waiting 
Hst of substitutes could do just as 
well! Christmas, the climax in all 
the ages, the day of highest person- 
ality; but she in her little personalit)' 
was not wanted. No one needed her 
gift of herself, and she sigh"ed in her 
abject loneHness. 

In the large private laboratory of 
an apartment a wearied man was 
testing foods. "Modified milk for 
babies, — value of carbon compounds 
in household arts, — the human race 
to be built up scientifically, — through 
health one climbs into heaven, — but, 
oh! the formulae of it all, when it is 
the personal touch that is wanted," 
he murmured disjointedly, almost 
audibly. "To-morrow is Christmas. 
The spirit is more than food or rai- 
ment, for life was born that it might 
be given. I, too, want to give my- 
self; but I'm not worth taking. 
\\Tiat's the use in principles of com- 
bustion, in proteids or albuminoids, 
in applied chemistry, unless I can 
give them a personal application! 
Help the human race! Fudge! 
Christmas Eve is uncommon lone- 
some. If she'd take me because of 
him! Girls take naturally to chil- 
dren, or they did before science in- 
terfered. Hang it! I've a mind to 
try, — just call myself a worthless 
Christmas gift, etc., etc." 

He sat down and wrote, erased 
and wrote again, telling her he was 
cranky and all that, but that his boy 
was O. K. Yet he did not know 
how to get on with him, for he had 
not had him long, though the boy 
was eight; for his uncle and aunt 
had adopted him as a baby, when 
his mother died, and had given him 
their name, that he might be their 
heir. And now they had gone, and 
the boy had come back to him. But 
that, if she'd take the gift of such a 



nice, ready-made boy, and take the 
father along with the child, he would 
be very grateful. 

Then, having got through the busi- 
ness part, he told her that, as she had 
studied under him in his laboratory 
at the Institute, in preparing her 
school work, he had just wished 
more and more that he himself were 
worth giving to her, but, as it was 
Christmas time, perhaps she would 
be willing. So he sealed the letter 
and mailed it, wondering how he 
dared. At any rate, he did not dare 
to read it again. 

Dov/nstairs in the same apartment 
a sunny-haired boy tried to play by 
himself with machinery and toys, 
and to pretend he was having a 
merry Christmas Eve. But he wasn't, 
and he knew it. He had been to a 
gregarious Christmas tree of the Sun- 
day-school, and had received a candy 
bag, a pair of toy scales, and a book. 
Not wanting these, he had given 
them to a little girl in the vestry, 
who, having had only useful things 
for her share, was unhappy. Her 
delight at his insight into her sorrow 
made him feel more Christmas-y. 

He had bought some test tubes for 
his father, who was always breaking 
them; but he was afraid to put them 
in his parent's socks, lest, when his 
father drew them on, the tubes should 
break. Besides, the old gentleman 
did not hang up his socks. The boy 
had, also, got a pencil for Miss Fitz, 
the teacher in the room next to his, 
but who alv/ays had a kindly word 
for him at recess, when his own 
teacher snubbed him. 

He, too, had a desire to give some- 
thing real, personal; and he wanted 
to be given unto in the same way. 
He hoped his father would learn to 
love him, if he weren't in the way; 
and he wished the pretty teacher 
could come and live with him. He 



244 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



was a lonely little boy, his bright 
home gone, his new home foreign 
unto him. If Christmas would only 
fix things somehow, and if he could 
get Santa Claus to bring it about! 
As he pondered, his ideas took shape; 
and, when he bade his father good- 
night, there was a tone in his voice 
which made the man take heart, — 
why he knew not. 

The Christmas mail had come, and 
Miss Fitz was reading hers. She 
made as if she would tear it up. 
Then she stopped and read again, 
stamped her foot, reread and smiled, 
as if she guessed she would. The 
pink color spread around her little 
ears as she said aloud, "He needs me: 
I wanted to be needed." 

Then there came a child's rap on 
the door, and Harry Luce, one of 
the school pupils, was saying to her, — 
she could scarcely hear him, her 
thoughts were so far away, — "Santa 
Claus sent you this." 

She took the pencil and kissed the 
child. He put his arms around her 
neck, and she gathered him into her 
lap, both sobbing a little, though 
each knew it only of the other. 

"Aren't you having a merry Christ- 
mas? I 'most cried myself awake 
this morning, it was so lonesome; 
and my papa is lonesomer. I want 
you to come and see him. Please 
come, he's pretty bad." 

She put away her letters and went 
with the boy, not knowing where or 
why, but eager to serve another on 
Christmas morning. He told her of 
yesterday's tree, and she listened. 



thinking of something else. He led 
her to his home, up into the library. 
' ' Papa ! See, I've brought you a real 
Christmas present! She's got to stay 
here." 

The professor started wildly, jubi- 
lantly, timorously. ' ' Miss Fitz ! ' ' He 
drew back scared. 

"Harry!" she exclaimed reprov- 
ingly, but had no strength to say more. 

"That's my papa, that's my teacher 
in the next room," the boy stoutly 
declared by way of introduction. 

"Leave the room!" ordered his 
father, sternly. The boy fled: his 
hopes had gone. The man tried to 
speak, but could not tell whether he 
did or didn't. 

"I did not know he was your son. 
He asked me to come and see his 
father, who was pretty bad," said 
Miss Fitz, slowly smiling. 

"Have you got my letter!" he at 
last contrived to ask intelligently. 
She stood still; and then, somehow, 
the secret of personality and of giving 
one's self in love to another burst 
upon them. After a while Harry was 
called back, and his father gave him 
to Miss Fitz. 

Then, when the boy had unravelled 
the mystery, — that the teacher in 
the school-room next to his had been 
his father's pupil in the kitchen 
laboratory work (because the School 
Committee made teachers study when 
they ought not), and that she never 
knew that his father and he were re- 
lations, — ^he turned three somersaults 
over the best Christmas joke he had 
ever heard. 



E 



VERY house," says Mrs. Mary 
Hinman Abel, "should be an ex- 
periment station. In the question of 
house service the housekeeper takes 
part in the struggle between capital 
and labor; in mastering the plumbing 



of her bath-room, she is studying 
hygiene and sanitar}^ science ; in study- 
ing methods of cooking, she is grap- 
pling with problems in chemistry un- 
equalled in interest or value by the 
experiments in any laboratory." 



Selection and Carving of Meat and Poultry 
for Seventy-five College Students 

By Adolphe Meyer, Chef of Union Club, New York 



THE choicest portions of beef 
for roasting are the ribs, the 
seven first of which are the 
"prime ribs." This joint is consid- 
ered by many to be the finest and 
best -flavored piece of the carcass, ex- 
cepting, perhaps, the sirloin, which is 
used rarely as a roast in the United 
States. 

When cooking for profit, it is best 
not to use meat that is too heavy or 
that has an abundance of fat, although 
good beef should have an outside cov- 
ering of fat of about one-half inch 
thick on the ribs and loin. 

A set of seven ribs should weigh 
from thirty to thirty-three pounds, 
which through trimming and cooking 
will lose about one-third of its weight. 
The time required for roasting a set 
of ribs of that weight is about four 
hours. To render it more advanta- 
geous to the carver, it should remain 
in the hot closet or a warm place for 
an additional thirty or forty minutes. 

Fresh or green meats — i.e., such 
that have not been hung for a certain 
time — require more time to cook. 

The short loin of beef is mostly 
used for steaks. If cut across the 
loin (without being boned) and with 
the tenderloin attached, the world- 
famous American Porterhouse steak 
is obtained. Slices from the boned 
loin constitute the sirloin, and those 
from the tenderloin the tenderloin 
steak. 

As a roast, the sirloin is second to 
none; but for carving it needs an ex- 
perienced hand. The loss through 
trimming and cooking is rather more 
than one-third of its weight. 



Another piece of beef sometimes 
used for roasting (more so in fami- 
lies) is the rump or short hip of beef. 
Tt is, however, more suitable for 
braising or for steaks. 

A short hip, to be profitable, should 
weigh from twenty-eight to thirty- 
four pounds. When boned (that is, 
without the tenderloin, the bones, 
and the inside fat), it will weigh 
from fourteen to seventeen pounds. 
If intended for roasting, cut the 
boned hip lengthwise in tw^o; if for 
braising, in three. If used for steaks, 
it should be cut transversel}^ in slices 
one inch thick. The tenderloiUj when 
freed from sinews and fat, can also 
be used as steaks. 

As mutton is objected to by many, 
on account of its strong flavor, it is 
advisable to buy the legs only. These 
should weigh from eight to ten poimds. 
Heavier than this, they are generally 
tough. Like beef, mutton needs to 
be "hung" for some time, as this 
procedure will not only render the 
fibre of the meat more tender, it will 
also make it lose its "sheepy" flavor. 
The time required for roasting a leg 
of mutton, underdone, is from one 
hour and one -half to one hour and 
three-quarters. 

If accommodations are adequate 
to keep two or three whole lambs, 
conveniently, for a few days, it would 
prove to be economical to buy two 
or three carcasses at the time. Six 
legs and shoulders would be sufficient 
for a party of seventy-five. The 
loins and ribs, or racks, would nearly 
make enough chops for a broil, while 
the remainder of the lambs would 



246 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



answer admirably for a substantial 
stew. 

The most profitable lambs are 
those weighing from forty to fifty 
pounds. 

To calculate how much meat is 
needed for a certain number of people, 
a half-pound of raw meat is counted, 
as a rule, per capita. A certain al- 
lowance has to be made for some kinds 
of meat which contains more or less 
bones. 

In American plan hotels, a pound 
of ribs of beef is supposed to yield 
six slices, when roasted, or enough 
for six people. This, however, is 
reckoned very closely, and would not 
be sufficient to satisfy the average 
appetite of ordinary persons. 

Chickens vary in quality, as well 
as in size and weight. Up to one and 
one-half pounds, they are the spring 
broilers; up to two and one-half 
pounds, spring roasters; and, from 
that up to three and one-half pounds, 
they become the ordinary roasting 
or fricassee chicken. 

A broiler of one and one-half pounds 
is enough for two; a spring roaster 
of two and one-half pounds is ample 
for three; and a roaster of three and 
one-half pounds will be found suffi- 
cient for four people. 

Fowls, if young, may be used for 
boiling or fricassee. Their average 
weight is four pounds; and one, if 
plump, will be enough for six persons. 
No other fowl vary so much in 
size as turkeys, and the size is by no 
means an indication of tenderness or 
quality. A turkey of ten pounds is 
sometimes found to be tougher than 
one of twice that weight. Large 
turkeys have considerable weight 
about the crop and neck that cannot 
be utilized, and the best turkeys are 
such from ten to twelve pounds. 
These are generally juicy, tender, 
and economical. A turkey of ten 



pounds will be sufficient for a party 
of fifteen to sixteen persons. Much 
depends, however, on the quality of 
the bird and the ability of the 
carver. 

To do good carving, it is absolutely 
necessary to have good sharp knives; 
but this is not all. The carver must 
be familiar with the anatomy of the 
joint, so as to be able to cut thin 
and broad slices and, further, to give 
the carved meats an appetizing and 
pleasing aspect. 

The ribs of beef are about the easiest 
joint to carve for a beginner. 

When they are ready for carving, 
they should be trimmed, in order to 
free them from the desiccated meat. 
The side near the shoulder is then cut 
straight, and the ribs are set upright 
on the carving-dish, which should be 
provided with a cavity at one end, so 
that the juice running from the joint 
may be gathered there and be taken 
up easily. The knife should be held 
horizontally, and the beef has to be 
cut smoothly with long, steady strokes. 
The thinner the slices, the better it 
is; and the greater is the skill of the 
carver. 

The carving of the sirloin is not, 
by far, as expeditious, and requires 
quite some skill. If the whole loin 
is to be carved at once, the tender- 
loin, or, as the English call it, "the 
undercut," may be removed first and 
cut in thin slices. The joint is then 
turned over, and the carver next 
slips the knife all around the meat 
at the end near the ribs, in order to 
free it from the bones. It is then 
sliced as fine as possible parallel with 
the ribs. Serve with each slice of 
loin a piece of the undercut. The 
hip or rump of beef merely needs to 
be cut in thin slices. 

The legs of mutton and lamb are 
carved alike. The thick part, or 
kernel, is to be cut first, it being the 



The Life of a Fir-tree 



247 



fleshiest part. The shoes are cut 
straight down until the knife reaches 
the bone. The knife is then shpped 
under the slice so as to free it entirely. 
When the thick part is cut, the leg is 
turned to the other side, and the 
smaller kernel is then sliced, holding 
the knife parallel with the bone. To 
facilitate the carving of these joints, 
a special handle may be adjusted to 
the thigh- bone, which may be had in 
any first-class hardware store. 

A small spring chicken, roasted or 
broiled, is divided in two. The carv- 
ing of a roasting chicken for four 
people is easy enough, and can be 
performed in two different ways. 
The first is to split the chicken in 
two, lift the legs, divide the drum- 
stick from the second joint, and cut 
the breast in two, holding the knife 
somewhat slanting. The piece of 
breast with the wing attached should 
be somewhat smaller, and should be 
served with the second joint, while 
the larger piece of the breast goes 



with the drumstick. If the chickens 
are stuifed, a spoonful of the stuffing 
is served alongside of the meat, a 
little of the gravy poured over, and, 
if there is giblet sauce, it is to be 
served separate. This is intended, 
of course, only if the chicken is served 
on plates directly to the individual. 
If it is to be dished upon platters and 
each person is to help himself, the 
second joint can be cut in two, and 
the breast into three parts. 

To carve a turkey at the table is a 
rather difficult task, as it is not so easy 
to manipulate as a chicken, although, 
in principle, the carving is the same. 
First remove the legs and cut the dark 
meat into as many suitable pieces as 
wanted. It is better to cut them thin 
and broad, in order to make them 
look less bulky. Then stick the fork 
in the centre of the breast, right above 
the breast bone, and slice down on 
each side toward the wings, allowing 
the knife to run parallel with the 
breast bone. 



The Life of a Fir-tree 

By Kate Matson Post 



It grew on a far hill's northern slope, 
Straight up towards a vault of blue; 

And, beneath, gray rocks peeped through the 
grass 
And fragrant ground-pine grew. 

The tree grew tall and sturdy and fair 

In the air so pure and free. 
One almost wondered God made it so, 

Where few ever chanced to see. 

But years rolled on, till an axe one day 

At the fir-tree's root was laid. 
It fell. "Ah! here ends my useless life," 

Thought the sturdy tree, dismayed. 



Ended, indeed! 'Twas but life begun 
When the fair tree stood erect, 

Bearing a burden of goodly gifts 
And with starry Hghts bedecked. 

Where the whole air thrilled with happiness 

And joy of the Christmas tide. 
And strains of music and childish mirth 

Rang out upon every side. 

'Twas for this great day the tree had Uved, 
Had waited, while years rolled by; 

To have borne its share in love's great work 
Was enough, and then to die. 



Decorations for Christmas 



By Mrs. E. M. Lucas 



FESTIVE decorations certainly 
increase the happiness of this 
day of rejoicing, and there are 
so many greens and decorative ma- 
terials for the holidays that a selec- 
tion is easily made. 

Evergreen of all sorts may be used, 
with plenty of holly berries; and, 
when holly berries are not to be had, 
others may be substituted. 

Black alder grows wild upon the 
outskirts of every wood. The beau- 
tiful-colored haws of the buckthorn 
and the hips of the wild rose, the 
glowing red berries of the climbing 
bittersweet, are among the most ar- 
tistic and effective materials for dec- 
oration. Trailing blackberry vines, 
with their purplish stems and bronze 
and red leaves, are extremely decora- 
tive. These vines, together with box 
wood, hemlock, branches of laurel and 
fir, produce a very pretty arrange- 
ment for decorating fireplaces and 
corners. The rich green bristling pine, 
twigs and limbs, are admirable for 
room decoration. They have a pretty 
plume-like effect even after they are 
dry. Against the wall they form an 
effective feature, especially when used 
en masse; or for filling large vases, or 
outlining the framework, they are 
very decorative, especially if the 
cones adhere to the branches. 

Running pine is beautiful for use, 
in its natural state, as garlands, fes- 
toons, and the like. 

Better results are obtained by keep- 
ing greens en masse than by the tedious 
work of making set pieces, which al- 
ways have a stiff look; and there is 
much more opportunity for spontane- 
ous decorations, if natural branches 
are used. 



Ropes of evergreen are useful: 
these can be festooned in the hallway, 
being draped from the picture mould- 
ing; and at the end of the hall, facing 
the door, the words, "Be Merrie AH" 
or "Merry Christmas," will give a 
kindly greeting to all who enter. 

In place of the laborious evergreen 
letters, cut the letters from red flannel, 
having chalked their outlines first, 
and edge with tiny sprays of ever- 
green; or cut them from sheet cotton, 
brush with mucilage and dust with 
mica, then outline with evergreen or 
with red berries and leaves. 

Large branches of evergreen are 
placed in the corners. If there is a 
tall mirror in the hall, a charming 
effect is gained with the bamboo 
flower-holders. Fasten these the length 
of the mirror, and fill, alternately, 
with red berries and trailing vines 
and feathery clematis. An evergreen 
or palm rises at one side, and before 
it is a basket vase, filled with holly, 
leaves and berries. 

The portieres may be replaced by 
strands of evergreen, tied closely to- 
gether onto the pole, and draped 
gracefully with large clusters of holly 
or red berries. For this purpose the 
fallen berries may be used, stringing 
them on stout thread or fine wire. 

In large rooms the corners can be 
cut off with small evergreen trees, fast- 
ened to the floor by means of stout 
cords and tacks and to the moulding 
with cords, hidden under sprays of 
green. The ceiling can be decorated 
with ropes of green radiating from the 
centre to the sides of the room, like 
the spokes of a wheel, the ends hang- 
ing down about three feet and ending 
in a large spray of hoUy and leaves, 



My Laddie's Tree 



249 



or a half -wreath tied with scarlet 
cr^pe paper. 

The simplest way to make wreaths 
is to cut a ring or half-ring from a 
solid piece of wire netting/ and stick 
pieces of greenery through the meshes. 

Narrow strips of the wire hanging 
from the picture moulding, massed 
with evergreen, is another pretty dec- 
oration, simulating a narrow frieze. 

Temporary arches may be made 
for the doorways, or the tops and 
jamb may be covered with sprays, 
fastened with black pins. Or run a 
rope of evergreen about two feet from 
the top, and in the space above set 
large wreaths, made of the netting 
and massed with greenery. Another 
scheme for an opening is to festoon 
ropes of evergreen or running pine, 
one over the other, in loops, with 
branches of bright berries hung in 
the interstices. 

The mantel may have the wood- 
work fitted with the wire netting, and 
be covered with greenery outlined 
with holly berries. Hanging from 



the lamp, either in the hall or parlor 
must be the mystical bunch of mistle- 
toe. 

In the dining-room dress the mantel 
in a similar manner. Let ropes of 
evergreen be carried from the chan- 
delier to the four corners of the room 
and run down to the floor. Pin tiny 
sprays of evergreen to the edges of 
the curtains, the ends overlapping, 
so the stems are hidden, thus making 
a rich green border. Put branches 
of pine or cedar in large vases upon 
the buffet. 

For the festive board a tiny tree, 
gay with little red apples and silvered 
nuts, is appropriate, or a graceful 
Asparagus plumosus, with the jardi- 
niere almost concealed by holly sprays, 
is effective. Large square name cards 
of red cardboard, outlined with sprays 
of green, form charming dashes of 
color against the white background; 
and with tall candelabra resplendent 
in red shades, and sprays of holly with 
red berries laid here and there, a 
charming^ festive air is produced. 




My Laddie's Tree 

By Cora A. Matson Dolson 



Last year I trimmed his Christmas tree 
With joy to see my Laddie's joy; 

No sweeter sight my eyes might see 
Than this, the gladness of my boy 



The sun has turned away from me, 
The Christmas star has lost its light 

I only see a wind-blown tree 

Within the place of graves to-night 



O Christ ! thy Mother feels for me ! 

Lead me the way! The light is dim 
Oh, let me trim my Laddie's tree, 

And joy my heart wi' sight o' him. 



Housekeeping in Mexico 



By an American 



FOR Americans in Mexico, par- 
ticularly for those living out- 
side its capital, where there 
are now a great many houses already 
built or being built in American style, 
housekeeping is somewhat of a trial, 
indeed, at times, it becomes a veri- 
table hardship. 

The Mexican houses have no con- 
veniences whatever, being built, in 
fact, without any modern conven- 
iences; that is, without closets, sink, 
cellar, or running water. For wash- 
ing purposes, water is drawn from 
a well situated in the inner patio 
(court-yard) adjacent to the kitchen. 
As this well water is generally hard 
and unfit for drinking or cooking, 
spring water is brought to the house 
by aquadores (water-bearers) on bur- 
ros, each laden with five small bar- 
rels, or five-gallon cans ; and each can 
costs from five to six cents. 

The entrance to a Mexican house 
is through massive doors into the 
zajuan, or wide hall, which leads into 
the patio, invariably filled with flower- 
ing plants in large tubs. Around the 
patio the principal rooms are built, 
chief of which is the sala (parlor). 

The furnishing of a Mexican parlor 
is about uniform, excepting in case 
of wealthy families who have trav- 
elled and adopted foreign ideas in 
regard to furnishing. The general 
taste runs to Austrian bent- wood 
furniture, for those who can afford it. 
Austrian bent-wood furniture is all 
right, when a few pieces are scattered 
around a summer sitting-room; but 
it becomes dreadfully monotonous 
to see, in almost every Mexican house 
of any pretension, a dozen chairs 
plastered tightly to the wall and 



flanked by two sofas. There is noth- 
ing in the middle of the apartment 
save one or two tables, filled with 
cheap china or glass ornaments, such 
as vases, colored glass balls, etc. Not 
a book or magazine is lying around 
in the average Mexican home. In- 
deed, though there are a few papers, 
some with very crude illustrations, 
published in Mexico, not a single 
magazine is published in the whole 
republic. In truth, a Mexican sala 
reminds one of an old-fashioned con- 
vent parlor, neat, but very unhome- 
like. 

Bedrooms are furnished as usual, 
minus a washstand, for which article 
the average Mexican has very little 
use, as a bath once a week suffices 
for him. The poorer classes, living 
in towns where there is not an abun- 
dance of water, never wash. The bed 
has one sheet, another being placed 
under the pillow for a wrap, as very 
few Mexicans know the use of a 
night-dress. The pillow, filled with a 
mass of hard cotton, is a very small 
affair, and very uncomfortable. 

The dining-room, like the other 
apartments, is very uncheerful. One 
never sees a dainty-looking dining 
table. It is usually covered with 
a soiled oil-cloth, from which the 
family partake of their meals, and 
the dishes are often served in the 
vessels in which they are cooked. 
Of course, I am not referring to the 
wealthier classes, who live in more 
civilized ways, and have adopted 
foreign modes to some extent. 

The Mexican kitchen, or cocina, 
is very large, and has a brasero ex- 
tending its entire length, with an 
old-fashioned oven in the comer. 



Housekeeping in IVIexico 



251 



The hrasero is a sort of range built 
of brick, and having from four to 
seven small holes with grating across, 
in which charcoal is burnt. Against 
a part of the wall is a shelf, about 
three feet from the floor, to hold the 
stone, or metate, on which their tor- 
tillas, or daily bread, are ground. 
The metate is about two by three feet, 
and is of just the same shape as that 
used by the Aztecs for the same pur- 
pose hundreds of years ago. They 
are of a black porous stone; and the 
manga, the stone used for grinding, 
is of the same stone. The manga 
is about eighteen inches long and 
three inches thick. 

Tortillas are made by boiling corn 
for a few minutes with a little piece 
of lime. The hulls are then care- 
fully washed off. The corn is then 
ground into a paste on the metate, 
being moistened a little during the 
process. A small portion is then 
taken in the hand and patted, until 
it becomes a very thin round cake 
about six inches in diameter. Placed 
upon a hot flat piece of earthenware 
or iron, called a comal, it is baked 
sufficiently upon one side in about 
a minute. It is then turned over 
and, in another minute, the average 
Mexican's spoon, knife, and fork is 
cooked. The poorer classes use these 
as a necessity, biting off a piece in 
conveying the food to the mouth. 
Other classes use them in prefer- 
ence to knives and forks, and scoop 
up their dinner with the greatest 
gusto. But let a foreigner once 



eat with them, and they will then use 
knives and forks, but very awk- 
wardly. 

Some of the dishes are very good, 
one of which I will give here. Every- 
thing is cooked in ollas, brown earthen- 
ware dishes that stand intense heat. 
In lieu of the earthenware, porcelain- 
lined vessels are the best. 

Put a large spoonful of lard into 
a saucepan. When very hot, put 
into this a cup and a half of rice that 
has been previously washed well 
and dried by spreading in the sun. 
Stir until it assumes a delicate yellow 
color, then add an onion and a large 
tomato, which have been chopped 
very fine (a clove of garlic is an addi- 
tion). Stir for two minutes, imtil 
all is blended well, being careful not 
to burn. Now add red chili, which 
has been prepared in the following 
way: Take about two pods of dried 
red chili, take out all the seeds and 
rinse and soak in warm water until 
quite soft. Scrape the pith off, or 
work with the hands, until all the 
pith is removed from the skin, then 
put it with the rice. Add about a 
pint of water, salt to taste, and set 
on the back of the stove, covered, 
to simmer. Probably more water 
will be needed. But, when cooked, 
it must be perfectly dry and every 
grain separate and colored a delicate 
red color. It makes a very nice 
dish to serve as a vegetable at dinner 
or luncheon. To grind the chili, 
we use, here, a little indented bowl 
and a small rough stone. 



OOMB active women, who pride 
^themselves in housekeeping, seem 
to forget that the object of keeping 
house is that human beings may be 
accommodated in it. Their sole idea 



seems to be this, that the house may 
be kept in a certain form and order; 
and to the performance of the form 
and order they sacrifice the comfort 
the house was established to secure. 



liSS^"-?^^ 



252 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



THE BOSTON COOKING- 
SCHOOL MAGAZINE 

OF 

Culinary Science and Domestic Economics. 
Janet McKenzie Hill, Editor, 

PUBLISHED TEN TIMES A YEAR, 

Official Journal of the Boston Cook- 
ing-School, 

Publication Office : 
372 BoYLSTON Street, Boston, Mass. 

Subscription, $1.00 PER Year. Single Copies, ioc. 
Advertising Rates furnished on Application. 

TO SUBSCRIBERS 

The Boston Cooking-School Magazine is sent 
until ordered discontinued, and arrearages 
are paid. 

The date stamped on the wrapper is the 
date on which your subscription expires : it 
is» also, an acknowledgment that a subscrip- 
tion, or a renewal of the same, has been re- 
ceived. 

Please renew on receipt of the colored 
blank enclosed for this purpose. 

When sending notice to renew subscription 
or change address, please give the old address 
as well as the new. 

In referring to an original entry, we must 
know the name as it was formerly given, to- 
gether with the Post-office, County, State, 
Post-office Box, or Street Number. 

Entered at Boston Post-office as second-class matter. 

Study the tastes and habits of those 
you would remember. 



Send people what they Hke, not 
what you think would improve their 
tastes. 



Exercise is the best medicine for 
the body, as it excites the flow of 
spirits and facihtates the excretions 
from the blood. — Sydenham. 



Economy no more means saving 
money than spending money. It 
means spending and saving, whether 
time or money or anything else, to 



the best possible advantage. — John 
Ruskin. 

COST OF LIVING 

^CCORDING to report the Eni- 
yiA ployers' Association of Chicago 
JL JL has been making a careful ex- 
amination into the comparative cost 
of living in that city at the present 
time and five years ago. Taking all 
the items of increase and decrease 
into account, the result of the inves- 
tigation appears to be that there has 
been an advance in the cost of living: 
equivalent to about 16 per cent. 

As an offset to this increase must 
be put the increase that has been 
made in the rate of wages in certain 
industries and the more constant em- 
ployment of labor that has prevailed 
during the last two or three years. 
But it is not likely that the result 
summed up in the foregoing figures 
would differ materially from that 
which would be obtained in other 
large centres of population, and it 
indicates a decided increase in the 
general cost of living in this country. 

Advance in cost of living concerns 
us all, but it affects chiefly and se- 
verely those who labor with the 
hands and by the day. And yet 
regularity in occupation is far more 
important to the well-being of the 
workingman than the comparative 
price of food products. Constant em- 
ployment, an even, steady course of 
business, are conducive to prosperity 
and contentment among all classes. 
To maintain these conditions should 
be the aim of all economic study and 
all legislation. Fluctuations of prices, 
the extremes of "good times" and 
"hard times," are neither natural 
nor desirable. The inevitable con- 
sequence of these fickle, industrial 
states is excessive gains on the part 
of a few and great loss and depriva- 
tion on the part of many. 



Editorials 



^S^ 



What the wage-earning class want 
most is a uniform, wholesome condi- 
tion of affairs, in which every one 
has occupation, — in other w^ords, an 
opportunity where each individual 
can exploit his energies and be sub- 
ject to no disturbance or shock of 
revolution. They who are constantly 
seeking for gains that may accrue to 
themselves through some change in 
economic poHcy do not belong to 
the better class of citizens. 



EXERCISE VERSUS WORK 

ALMOST any kind of physical 
work is considered exercise ; and 
^ with a strong and healthy per- 
son it may matter little in what partic- 
ular way exercise is taken, so long as it 
is taken at all and not overdone. It 
is quite different with an ailing per- 
son, for whom exercises are used for 
therapeutic purposes. Here a dis- 
tinct difference must be made between 
work and exercise, especially where 
overwork is the cause of the ailment, 
as is very often the case. In such 
cases exercises should be administered 
as carefully as any other therapeutic 
agent, and in such a way as to pro- 
duce a stimulating effect upon the 
muscles whose action promotes the 
circulation of the blood and has a 
soothing effect upon the nerves. To 
accompHsh this with the least pos- 
sible expense of vital energy is the 
merit of exercising. 

This rule is not generally observed; 
and exercising is often done in such 
a way as to merely add more work, 
when the vital power is already over- 
taxed. The result of this way of 
doing is fatigue, and often even 
exhaustion instead of the desired 
stimulating effect. Even outdoor ex- 
ercise is generally obtained at too 
great an expense of vital energy, as 
it is not only done to an excess, but 



also too mechanically. Walking, as 
has been stated by medical authori- 
ties, but for the breathing of fresh 
air it necessitates, is poor exercise. 
Especially is this the case in crowded 
streets, where one's attention is con- 
stantly attracted to something or 
another, and concentration of the 
mind, which is of no less importance, 
is rendered impossible. 

Thus walking and even other out- 
door exercises are made simply work 
and often drudgery. The best exer- 
cise, especially for those not in robust 
health, is massage and resisting move- 
ments. The patient, being in a state 
of physical rest, is able to concen- 
trate his thoughts upon the process, 
and a skilled and experienced opera- 
tor will always regulate and restrict 
the manipulations to the responsive 
capacity of his patient. 

Thus the patient obtains the great- 
est possible amount of real exercise 
with the least possible expense of 
vital energy. The value of massage 
is conspicuous, especially, in cases 
where overwork is the cause of ail- 
ments, and rest as well as exercise is 
needed. — H, Speck, in Dietetic and 
Hygienic Gazette, 



REFLECTIONS 

WORK is the artist that 
builds a splendid arch; 
w^orry, the enemy which 
removes the keystone, allowing the 
structure to fall. 

Do not be deceived because the 
hardest work oft comes to naught 
and haphazard effort sometimes causes 
brilliant results. Thorough, syste- 
matic work always wins. 

It's the last half-inch that tells. 
The finish of a hundred-yard dash is 
often decided by a hair. 

The clerk who watches the clock 
is trying to find his dismissal. 



54 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



"Well-rounded" men may be an 
ornament to society, but they are 
usually of little value to it. Whittle 
your one talent to the sharpest point 
of usefulness: a point is necessary 
to make an impress on the flinty sur- 
face of your world. — M. J. Phillips, 
in Chat. 

IN 1904 

THE Cooking-School Magazine 
is designed not only to please 
and instruct those who are 
engaged in home-making, but also to 
be of actual and permanent serv^ice 
in the home. It is conducted in 
accordance with the belief that it 
were better to learn how to live 
wisely and prudently than to take 
drugs and pay doctors' bills; and, 
when discreetly handled, it will save 
each month many times its cost. 

The tendency of the day is, we 
think, toward simple, intelligent, self- 
reliant ways of living, — ways that 
are dependent upon personal effort 
and observance of natural laws rather 
than to be guided by methods that 
are ever subject to caprice and chance. 

The comer-stone of all wholesome, 
contented living is good health : Avith- 
out this life has little of good to offer. 
Hence exercise, fresh air, ventilation, 
sanitation, hygiene, the selection and 
preparation of food, as instrumental 
to healthful living and contentment 
in the home, become topics some 
knowledge of which is of vital im- 
portance. All these are subjects with 
which the Cooking -School Magazine 
aims to deal. 

For instance, what is of greater 
concern to the well-being of home 
life than the character and quality 
of the three meals a day, three hun- 
dred and sixty-five days in a year. 
To be sure, other and higher things 
may be called for to feed the soul, 
but these are primary and of im- 



mediate and practical significance. 
They concern individual happiness 
and effective service in every one's 
life calling, whatever this may be. 

It is proposed, in the coming year, 
to make each number of the Cooking- 
School Magazine of increasing value 
and helpfulness in all that tends to 
promote health, comfort, and intelli- 
gent activity in home life. As the 
Christmas season approaches, may 
we not ask our readers, WHiat more 
prudent and suitable gift could be 
sent to many a friend than a copy of 
the Cooking -School Magazine for 1904? 
We shall be pleased to forward these 
copies promptly, together with a 
card bearing the name and compli- 
ments of the donor. 

THE offer in our November 
issue to send specimen copies 
of the magazine to those 
whose names and addresses are kindly 
furnished by our readers has met 
with such agreeable response we 
would fain thank our friends, and 
renew the offer. 

We give below a single letter, many 
of which of like import have been 
received during the past month: — 

Mrs. J. M. H11.L: 

Dear Madam, — In the last issue of your 
magazine I read a note to the effect that to 
any one sending you names a copy of the 
magazine would be sent. I take pleasure 
in furnishing a few names of ladies whom I 
know will appreciate your good work, and I 
hope they will enjoy the helpful receipts and 
many suggestions as much as I have. If the 
subscription price were double the present 
amount, I should consider it money well in- 
vested. 

Yours most respectfully, 

Mrs. W. L. L. 



Sincerity is like traveling in a plain 
beaten road, which commonly brings 
a man sooner to his journey's end 
than by-ways in which men often lose 
themselves. — Tillotson. 




Salad in Aspic Cups. See page 259 



Seasonable Recipes 



TN all recipes where flour is used, unless otherwise stated, the flour is measured after sifting 
-■-once. When flour is measured by cups, the cup is filled with a spoon, and a level cupful is 
meant. A tablespoonful or a teaspoonful of any designated material is a level spoonful of such 
material. 



Cocoanut Soup 
Have ready two quarts of hot veal 
or chicken broth, freed from fat. 
Beat one tablespoonful of cornstarch 
into three tablespoonfuls of creamed 
butter, dilute to a smooth liquid 
consistency with a little of the hot 
broth, and stir into the rest of the 
broth with one-fourth to one-half a 
pound of fresh grated cocoanut, a 
blade or two of mace, and the thin, 
yellow peel of half a lemon. Let 
cook ten minutes, stirring constantly, 
then strain, pressing out the juice 
from the cocoanut. Reheat, add 
a cup of hot cream, and serve at once. 

Canned Okra Soup 
Chop two onions fine, and fry in 
one-fourth a cup of butter. Pour 
a cup of water over a pint of oysters. 



and look over the oysters to remove 
bits of shell. Set the oysters aside 
until time to serve the soup, and strain 
the liquid into the onions. Add one 
can of tomatoes, half a cup of par- 
boiled and drained rice (rice brought 
quickly to the boiling-point in cold 
water and drained), a red-pepper 
pod from which the seeds have been 
taken, and five pints of water. Let 
simmer about two hours over a slow 
fire, stirring frequently. When about 
ready to serve, remove the red pepper, 
add a can of okra, cut in slices, if 
not already so cut, and bring quickly 
to the boiling-point. Turn in the 
oysters, heat again to the boiling- 
point, and serve. 

Giblet Soup 
Chop an onion fine, and put into 



^^6 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



the saucepan with three tablespoon- (made from trimmings) or water, 
fuls of butter. Let cook, stirring Use the liquid to rinse out the frying- 
meanwhile, to a golden brown, lighter pan. Let simmer five hours. Re- 
serve one liver, 
strain off the 
broth, let cool, and 
remove the fat. 
Reheat and stir in 
two tablespoonfuls 
of flour or corn- 
starch, diluted with 
water to pour. Let 
cook ten minutes, 
then add salt, cay- 
enne, a tablespoon- 
ful of lemon juice, 
the liver pressed 
through a sieve, 
and a hard-boiled yolk of egg, for 
each service. A larger number of gib- 
lets is preferable, when water is used 
as the liquid, if fresh meat be not at 
hand. For a change half or a whole 
tablespoonful of curry powder may be 
added with the flour. 




New Bouillon Cup with Salt and Pepper Servers 



rather than darker in color. Then 
add a carrot (half a one, if large), 
chopped fine, two sprigs of parsley, 
two or three stalks of celery, cut 
small, and the necks, cleaned feet, 
and giblets of two turkeys or four 
or five chickens. Cook until well 




Shaping, Draining, and Frying Scallop Croquettes 



browned, then cut the giblets in 
small pieces, and put into the soup- 
kettle with any bits of lean veal or 
beef and three quarts of light stock 



Scallop Croquettes 

Put one pint of scallops, just as 
thev come from the market, over 



Seasonable Recipes 



257 



the fire, and bring quickly to the 
boiHng-point. Let boil, then drain 
at once, and cut in halves or in smaller 
pieces, if the scal- 
lops are large. 
Melt three table- 
spoonfuls of but- 
ter; add three 
tablespoonf uls o f 
flour, and a dash 
of salt and paprika. 
When frothy, add 
three-fourths a cup 
of the scallop 
liquor, and stir and 
cook imtil smooth 
and thick. Then 
stir in the beaten 
yolk of an egg, a 
teaspoonful of lem- 
on juice, and the scallops. Turn into 
a dish to cool, then shape in balls, 
and roll in bread crumbs. Flatten 
the balls, to give them a triangular 
shape, — two spatulas or knives are 
of assistance in doing this, — dip the 
white of the egg, beaten with a 



mato or Hollandaise sauce, or with 
mayonnaise dressing, beaten grad- 
ually into enough tomato paste (pur- 




Nuts with Swiss, Carved- Wood Nut-cracker 

chased at Italian stores) to give a 
bright red color. 

Celery with Beef Marrow 

Trim three heads (one bunch) of 
celery, w^ash thoroughly and drain. 
Tie each head, with a tape, near the 




Rolled Lettuce Sandwiches, Server oi' Polished Wood 

tablespoonful of water, over them, stalk end. Cover with boiling water, 

covering everv part, then roll again and let cook ten minutes, then drain, 

in crumbs and fry in deep fat, and rinse in cold water, and set to cook 

drain. Serve with sauce tartare, to- again in boiling water. Let cook 



258 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



about three-fourths an hour. Have 
ready a brown sauce, made by brown- 
ing one-fourth a cup of flour in one- 




Turkish Coffee Pot and Cups 

fourth a cup of browned butter and 
a sHce of onion. Add one cup of 
brown stock and one cup of the celery 
liquid, and, when boiling, strain over 
the celery. Add about two dozen 
half-inch slices of beef marrow, and 
let simmer very gently ten minutes. 



Rolled Lettuce Sandwiches 
Roll fresh-baked bread in a cloth 
wrung out of cold water. Cover 
tight with dry 
cloths, let stand 
several hours, then 
remove the crusts, 
and cut in very 
thin slices. Spread 
the slices with 
creamed butter or 
with mayonnaise 
dressing, and over 
this lay a piece of 
lettuce leaf and 
roll up tight. Any 
bread may be 
used, but bread made with potatoes 
or potato yeast is good for this pur- 
pose, because it is moist. 

Potato Bread 
Boil four, medium-sized, pared po- 
tatoes in water to cover until tender, 




English Plum Pudding with Hard and Liquid Sauces 



Put the celery on a serving-dish, 
pour over the sauce, and serve at 
once. The recipe will serve one dozen 
people. 



then pass through a sieve with the 
water in which they were cooked. 
Add scalded milk to make a quart 
of liquid, also two teaspoonfuls of 



Seasonable Recipes 



259 



salt, one-fourth a cup of sugar, and 
one-fourth a cup of shortening. When 
cooled to a lukewarm temperature, 

add two yeast 

cakes, softened in 
a cup of luke- 
warm water or 
milk, and flour to 
make a dough 
that can be knead- 
ed. Knead until 
elastic, then set 
aside, to become 
light, in a tem- 
perature of about 
68° Fahr. When 
light, shape into 
loaves, and, when 
again light, — not 
quite doubled in bulk, 
one hour. 



ounce of gelatine, softened in half 
a cup of cold water and clarified with 
the white of an egg), and set aside 




Mince Pie with Vanilla Ice-cream 



-bake about 



Salad in Aspic Cups 

Set patent charlotte russe moulds 

in broken ice and water, and decorate 

the sides of the chilled moulds, with 

alternate slices of olives and rounds 




Florentine Meringue. See page 272 



cut from cooked white of egg. When 
the decoration is set, fill the moulds 
with aspic jelly (a pint of consomme 
or chicken liquor, stiffened with an 



to become firm. Put a spoonful of 
hot water into the hollow bottom 
of the moulds, let stand an instant, 
then turn out and immerse in hot 
water to the top, and turn contents 
onto individual serving-dishes. Fill 
the aspic cups with chicken and celery, 
cut in small pieces and mixed with 
salad dressing. 
Any other salad 
ingredients may be 
used. Cups made 
of fish aspic and 
filled with lobster 
or shrimp salad 
are a novelty. 

English Plum 

Pudding 
Chop fine one 
pound of beef suet, 
and mix with one 
pound of flour, 
sifted with four 
level teaspoonfuls 
of baking-powder, 
of cinnamon, one 
mace, cloves. 



two teaspoonfuls 

teaspoonful, each, of 

and salt. Then mix in one pound of 

raisins, seeded, one pound of currants, 



a6o 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



one pound of brown sugar, and one- 
fourth a pound, each, of citron and 
candied orange peel, cut fine. Beat 



sauce. If approved, hot brandy sauce 
may be also poured around each slice, 
as it is disposed on the serving-dish. 




Chocolate Nut Doubles, Egg Rings and Christmas Cakes 

Hard Sauce 



four eggs without separating whites 
and yolks, add one cup of sweet milk, 
and stir into the dry ingredients. Turn 
into two buttered moulds that hold at 
least two quarts, each, and steam six 
hours. Turn from the moulds onto 
a serving-dish, and garnish with hard 
sauce pressed through a pastry bag 



Cream half a cup of butter. Beat 
in gradually one cup of sugar, and 
then the unbeaten white of an egg. 
Beat vigorously throughout. The 
sauce should be very light and fluffy, 
when finished. 




Waldorf Triangles with Baking Tin 



onto slices of lemon. Serve a slice of 
lemon with the sauce on each service 
of pudding. The lemon tempers the 
heat that would otherwise melt the 



Cracker Pudding 
Roll ten crackers. Add to the 
crumbs spices to suit the taste, two 
level tablespoonfuls of sugar, one tea- 



Seasonable Recipes 



0.6 



spoonful of salt, three-fourths a cup of thoroughly, and bake in a round pan 
molasses, and two quarts of milk. Mix without a tube. The size commonly 
thoroughly, and bake half an hour, used for a five-egg sponge cake is 
then stir in half a pound 
of raisins, mixed with 
nine eggs beaten with- 
out separating, and 
bake in a moderate 
oven three hours. 
Serve hot with hard, or 
liquid, pudding sauce. 
Sufficient to serve eight 
or ten persons. 

Park Street Cake 

(Mrs. Cornelius, with 

Variations) 




Cream half a cup of 



Jelly and Cream in Pear Meringu( 



butter. Add gradually 
one cup of sugar, then a cup of cleaned 
currants. Beat the yolks of four eggs, 
add a cup of sugar, and stir into the 
other ingredients with a teaspoonf ul of 
lemon extract. Add, alternately, one 



of proper size. Bake about an hour 
and a quarter. When cold, cover 
with a confectioner's white frosting 
or with a caramel frosting. Deco- 
rate with cherries and pistachio nuts. 




Ice-cream in Jelly Cups 



cup of milk and three cups of sifted 
flour, sifted with a teaspoonful of soda, 
two teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar, 



In the illustration the cherries and 
blanched nuts are cut in quarters. 
The lettering; "Merrv X'mas" is 



and half a teaspoonful of mace. Beat made of chopped nuts. 



1262 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



Confectioner's Caramel Frosting 
Cook half a cup of sugar to a cara- 
mel. Add half a cup of boiling water, 
and stir and cook until a thick syrup 




Pansy Baskets 

is formed, then stir in sifted confec- 
tioner's sugar and half a teaspoonful 
of vanilla extract, to make a paste that 
will spread and not run off. This 
frosting will keep soft for weeks. 



powder. Add one cup of hickory nut 
meats, chopped fine, and, lastly, the 
stiff-beaten whites of four eggs. Bake 
in a loaf about one hour, or in a sheet 
about forty minutes. 
A part of the nuts 
may be reserved and 
sprinkled on the top 
of the mixture just 
before it is put into 
the oven, or the cake 
may be covered with 
a chocolate caramel 
icing. 

Chocolate Cara- 
mel Icing 
Cook one-third a 
cup of sugar to the 
caramel stage. Add 
two tablespoonfuls of boiling water, 
and cook until the caramel is dis- 
solved, then pour over one ounce or an 
ounce and a half, according to taste, of 
melted chocolate. Stir until smooth, 




Maple and Nut Creams Glace Nuts and Cherries Penuchie Fruit Fudge 

Violet Balls Maple Fudge Chocolate and Nut Fudge 



Hickory Nut Cake 
Cream half a cup of butter. Add, 
gradually, one cup and a half of sugar, 
then, alternately, three-fourths a cup of 
milk and two cups of sifted flour, sifted 
again with two teaspoonfuls of baking- 



then add a cup of sugar and one-fourth 
a cup of water, boiled until the syrup 
threads from the end of the spoon. 
Continue the boiling until the syrup 
again threads, then pour in a fine 
stream onto the white of one egg, 



Seasonable Recipes 



263 



beaten until foamy, but not dry. 
Beat occasionally until cold, flavor 
with a teaspoonful of vanilla, then 
spread a part over the cake, and with 
forcing bag and tube ",pipe" the 
remainder upon the cake. 

Egg Rings 
Carefully separate the whites and 
yolks of two eggs. Put the whites 
in a bowl, and drop the yolks into 
a small saucepan of boiling water. 
Keep the yolks in a hot place until 
they are cooked solid throughout, 
then drain on a cloth and pass through 
a sieve. Beat one whole egg and the 
yolk of another until very thick, 
then add the sifted yolk and beat 
again. When the whole is light and 
smooth, gradually beat in half a cup 
of fine granulated sugar, and beat 
the egg-and-sugar mixture into a 
cup of butter, beaten to a cream. 
When these are thoroughly blended, 
beat in about four cups of sifted flour. 
When the mixture can be beaten 
no longer with a whisk or perforated 
spoon, knead on a board. Cut off 
small portions, and roll into long 
rounds, the thickness of a lead-pencil. 
Shape these into rings or eights, lay 
on a baking-sheet brush over with 
beaten white of egg and sprinkle 
thickly with coarse, granulated sugar 
or blanched almonds, chopped fine. 
Bake a delicate straw-color. 

Ice-cream in Jelly Cups 
Decorate patent charlotte russe 
moulds with halves of candied cherries 
(a bit of almond in centre), angelica 
leaves and stems. Fill the moulds 
with liquid for lemon, orange, or wine 
jelly. When unmoulded, fill the jelly 
cups with ice-cream. Whipped cream 
also makes a good filling for the cups. 



Jelly and Cream in Pear 
Meringues 
Fashion a meringue mixture (see 
page 469, May (1903) magazine) in 
the shape of pears, inserting in half 
of these dried currants for the blos- 
som end and a bit of angelica for the 
stem end. When baked and ready 
to serve, fill corresponding halves 
with lemon, orange, grape, or wine 
jelly, cut into tiny cubes and stirred 
into double cream, beaten solid, and 
press together. Lay a crumpled nap- 
kin in the centre of a serving-dish, 
and about this arrange the filled pears. 
Cover the napkin and the spaces 
between the pears with twigs of holly 
or mistletoe. 

A Christmas Bowl 

Bake six Greening and three Bald- 
win apples without removing skins 
or cores. When tender, add four 
quarts of boiling water, the thin, 
yellow rind of three lemons and four 
oranges, and two bay leaves. Let 
simmer twenty minutes, then strain 
through a bag, pressing out the juice. 
Boil three cups of sugar with a pint 
of water twenty minutes. Add to the 
liquid with one cup of black-tea in- 
fusion, and set aside to become cold. 
Then add the juice from the oranges 
and lemons and a small bottle of 
maraschino cherries with the syrup. 
Let stand several hours before serv- 
ing. 

Waldorf Triangles 

Bake any sponge or pound cake 
mixture in "goldenrod pans," well 
oiled. When cold, spread with con- 
fectioner's frosting and sprinkle with 
chopped pistachio nuts. 



Seasonable Menus. Family of Three 

Adults 

" ^n effect is pleastitfl in proportion as it is attaint bg little effort anH simple means.'* 



Quaker Oats, with Nuts, Milk. 

Corned Beef Hash. Stewed Tomatoes. 

Corn-meal Muffins. 

Cocoa. 

Dinner 

Fowl Steamed and Baked, 

Brown Giblet Sauce. 

Steamed Cabbage, Hollandaise Sauce. 

Rice with Tomatoes and Cheese. 

Cracker Pudding (half recipe), Hard Sauce. 

Coffee. 

Supper 

Bread and Milk. 

Little Cakes. 

Tea. 



^re^kfast 

Oatmeal, Cream or Milk. 

Broiled Sausage. Fried Apples. 

Cooked Sweet Potatoes, Buttered and Broiled. 

Breakfast Corn-cake. Coffee. 

Dinner (Guests) 

Roast Leg of Mutton. 

Baked Bananas, Currant Jelly Sauce. 

Franconia Turnips. Mashed Potatoes. 

Mayonnaise of Tomato Jelly with Celery. 

Canned Fruit. Wafers. 

Black Coffee. 

Supper 

•Fried Oysters. Cole Slaw. 

Twin Mountain Muffins. Baked Apples. 

Cereal Coffee. 



'^Bre^kfa.si 

Shredded Wheat Biscuit, Cream. 

Creamed Corned Beef au Gratin. 

Potato Chips (Reheated). 

Rye-meal Muffins. Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Deviled Crabs. 
Baking-powder Biscuits. Olives. 
Lemon Bromangelon with Cream. 

Cereal Coffee. 

dinner 

Chicken Broth with Macaroni. 

Chicken Souffle with Tomato Puree. 

Mashed Potatoes. Lettuce Salad. 

Cottage Pudding Baked in Roll Pan, Vanilla Sauce. 

Tea. 



^^reakfast 

Farina, Cream. 

Tenderloin of Pork. 

White Hashed Potatoes. 

Dry Toast. Buns. 

Cocoa. 

J^uncheon 

Baked Sweet Potatoes, Butter. 

Dried Beef. Corn-cake (Reheated). 

Apple Pie. Coffee. 

^nner 

Split Pea Soup. 

Cold Mutton, Sliced Thin. 

Potatoes a la Maitre d'Hotel. 

Canned Peas. Dried Apricot Pie. 

Tea. 



"Bresikf^t 

Gluten Grits, Hot Dates, Cream. 

Chicken-and-Deviled Ham Timbales, 

Cream Sauce. Baked Potato Cakes. 

Dry Toast. Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Cream of Celery-and-Onion Soup. 

Bread Crutnbs, Buttered and Browned. 

Coffee Jelly, Whipped Cream. Tea. 

Dinner 

Sirloin Steak. Baked Sweet Potatoes. 

Scalloped Tomatoes. 

Lettuce-and-Celery Salad. 

Baked Apple-Tapioca Pudding, 

Ice-cream or Cream and Sugar. 

Ceueal Coffee. 



*^rea.kfasi 

Apples Baked with Dates, Cream. 

Salt Mackerel, Broiled, with Hot Cream. 

Fried Farina. Biscuit. Coffee. 

Luncheon 
Welsh Rabbit with Macaroni. 

Sifted Apple Sauce. 
Gingerbread. Cereal Coffee. 

^nner 

Boiled Haddock, Egg or Oyster Sauce. 

Boiled Potatoes. 

Lima Beans, Canned or Dried. 

Lettuce, French Dressing. 

Grape Juice Sherbet. 

Sponge Cake. 

Coffee. 



"^Breakfast 

Fresh Fruit. 
Hominy, Milk or Cream. 

Broiled Sausage. 
French Fried Potatoes. 

Fried Apples. 

German Coffee Cake. 

Coffee. 



^nner 

Mutton, and Macaroni 

Scalloped with Tomato Sauce. 

Boiled Onions, Buttered. 

Hot Cabinet Pudding, 

Jelly Sauce, 

Cereal Coffee. 



Supper 

Chicken Salad. 

Pim-Olas. 

Yeast Rolls. 

Cream Cheese. 

Toasted Crackers. Jelly. 

Tea. 



Bill of Fare for a Week in South Carolina. 

Family : Three Adults, two College Boys, Girl of Twelve. 

" Wi}t mina mag feeO upon fanrg ; but t\)t mattev^of4art stomarfj tmpertouslg HcmantJS sometf}mg 
more stibstantt'aL" 



"Breakfast 

Corn-meal Mush, Milk. 

Cold Boiled Ham, Sliced Thin. 

Baked Sweet Potatoes. 

Wheat Puffets. Canned Blackberries. Coffee. 

^nner 

Mock Bisque Soup, Bread Crumbs 

(Buttered and Browned). 

Chickens Roasted, Giblet Sauce. 

Fruit Jelly or Sweet Pickles. 

Plain Boiled Rice with Parsley. 

Turnip Cubes in Cream Sauce. 

Banana Ice-cream. Park Street Cake. Tea. 

Supper 

Sardines. Lemon Points. Saltine Crackers. 

Bread-Cheese-and-Nut Sandwiches. 

Cookies. Cereal Coffee. 



"Breakfast 

Oranges. Finnan Haddie, Hot Cream. 

Plain Boiled White Potatoes. 

Fried Mush. Dry Toast. Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Ham Timbales. 

Creamed Macaroni au Gratin. Cole Slaw. 

Yeast Bread and Butter. 

Stewed Figs. 

"Dinner 

Corn Chowder, Crackers. 

Chicken Croquettes, Canned Peas. 

Pickled Beets. 

Boiled Custard in Glasses, 

Snow Eggs above. 

Cake or Cookies. Tea. 



"Breakfast 

Crushed Wheat, Milk or Cream. 

Eggs Scrambled with Chopped Ham (Cooked). 

French Fried Potatoes. 
Corn-meal Muffins. Stewed Prunes. Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Risotto. Dried Beef, Squizzled. 

Squash or Sweet Potato Pie. 

Cocoa. 

"Dinner 

Succotash 
(Dried or Canned Beans and Corn). 

Yeast Bread and Butter. 

Boiled Cabbage, Hollandaise Sauce. 

Caramel Blanc Mange, Cream. 

Tea. 



'Breakfast 

Oatmeal, Orange Marmalade, 

Cream or Milk. 

Broiled Bacon. Baked Eggs. 

Doughnuts. Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Gnocchi a la Romaine. 

Toasted Crackers. 

Boiled Rice. Milk. 

Cooked Fruit. 

"Dinner 

Baked Ham. 

Scalloped Cabbage au Gratin. 

Candied Sweet Potatoes. 

Baltimore Samp with Parsley. 

Blackberry Sponge. Cream. 



"Breakfast 

Baltimore Samp, Cream. 

Cold Baked Ham, Sliced Thin. 

Hot Apple Saiice (Evaporated Apples). 

Baking-powder Biscuit. 

Coffee or Cocoa. 

Luncheon 

Macaroni with Tomatoes and Cheese. 

Corn (canned) Fritters. 

Cream Cakes. Cocoa, 

"Dinner 

Chicken Timbales. 

Bechamel Sauce. 

Canned Peas. Cole Slaw. 

Chocolate Bread Pudding. Hard Sauce. 

Tea. 



"Breakfast 

Rice, Milk. 

Salt Codfish Balls, Horseradish Sauce. 

Hunter's Corn-cake. 

Coffee or Cocoa. 

Luncheon 

Tomato Timbales. Cream Sauce. 

Bread and Hot Bacon Sandwiches. 

Jellied Figs, Cream. Tea. 

"Dinner 

Salt Salmon, Boiled. Egg Sauce. 

Boiled Potatoes. Canned Peas. 

Cold Boiled Cabbage, Salad Dressing. 

Sponge Cake. 

Baked Apples Stuffed with Oranga Marmalade. 

Cream or Milk. Black Coffee. 



"Breakfast 

Baltimore Samp, 

Syrup, Milk. 

Dried Beef in Cream Sauce. 

White Hashed Potatoes. 

Southern Spoon Corn-bread. 

Coffee or Cocoa. 



Luncheon 

Cream-of -Celery Soup. 

Ham Souffle, Tomato Sauce. 

Bread and Butter. 

Steamed Pudding, 

Hard or Liquid Sauce. Tea. 



"Dinner 

Cream-of-Salmon Soup. 
Chicken-and-Celery Salad. 

Fresh Bread and Butter. 

Frozen Apricots (Canned). 

Sponge Cake. 



Recipes for South Carolina Menus 



Corn-meal Muffins 
Beat one-fourth a cup of butter 
to a cream. Add, gradually, three- 
fourths a cup of sugar, then two 
eggs, beaten without separating, and, 
alternately, one cup of milk and two 
cups of sifted flour, one cup of corn- 
meal, four level teaspoonfuls of bak- 
ing-powder, and half a teaspoonful 
of salt, sifted together. Bake in a 
hot, buttered, iron muffin-pan about 
twenty -five minutes. 

Dates for Breakfast 
Separate the dates — one from an- 
other — with the fingers, cover them 
with boiling water, and stir about 
one minute, then skim out of the 
water onto an agate plate. Set into 
a hot oven from three to five minutes, 
then remove to serving-dish, or take 
out the stones, cut in halves, and 
stirr into a hot, cooked cereal, or 
cut into smaller pieces, ^ and stir into 
an uncooked muffin mixture. 

Risotto (Luncheon or Supper 
Dish) 

Put one cup of rice over the fire in 
a saucepan of cold water, bring quickly 
to the boiling-point, and let boil 
five minutes. Then drain and rinse 
in a sieve. Melt two tablespoonfuls 
of butter in a saucepan. Add half 
an onion and the rice, and stir and 
cook until the butter is absorbed, 
then add one cup of thick tomato 
pulp (tomatoes cooked till quite 
dry and then sifted), one teaspoonful 
and a half of salt, a dash of paprika, 
and from two to three cups of stock 
(made from roast chicken bones, 
veal, etc.) or water. Let cook until 
the rice is tender and the liquid ab- 
sorbed, then take out the onion, 



and stir in half a cup of grated cheese 
(American or imported, as conven- 
ient) . Use a fork to mix in the cheese. 
Lift the rice carefully, to avoid break- 
ing the kernels. The last part of 
the cooking is best done over hot 
water. 

Rice with Bacon (Luncheon or 
Supper Dish) 

Pour boiling water over one-fourth 
a pound of bacon, freed from rind 
and cut in slices, then drain and cut 
the slices into inch pieces. Saute 
these to a light yellow color, then add 
a quart of water or light stock, and 
let simmer an hour or more. Parboil 
three-fourths a cup of rice in boiling 
water five minutes, then drain and 
rinse on a fine sieve. Add the rice 
to the bacon with a dash of paprika. 
Let simmer until both rice and bacon 
are tender, then add a cup of well- 
reduced tomato purde (cooked to- 
matoes passed through a sieve and 
cooked until thick). Mix thoroughly 
with a silver fork, and, when of a firm 
consistency, turn in a mound onto a 
dish. 

Ham Timbales 
Stir one-fourth a cup of fine bread 
crumbs from the centre of the loaf, 
the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs 
passed through a sieve, two table- 
spoonfuls of melted butter, one cup 
of fine-chopped, cold, cooked ham, 
one-fourth a teaspoonful of salt, and 
a few grains of cayenne, or drops of 
tabasco sauce, into one cup and a 
half of milk, mixed with two eggs, 
beaten without separating. Turn 
into buttered timbale moulds (fit 
paper into the bottom of the moulds 
before buttering), and let cook, set 



Recipes for South Carolina Menus 



169 



on heavy folds of paper, and sur- 
rounded with water just below the 
boiling-point, until the mixture is 
firm in the centre. Serve, turned 
from the moulds and surrounded Avith 
white tomato sauce, or a cream sauce, 
flavored with onion and parsley. 
Half a cup of chicken and half a cup 
of ham give a more delicate timbale. 
In both cases the sifted yolks of eggs 
may be omitted. The timbales may 
be cooked in the oven or, covered, 
on the top of the range. Cups or a 
pudding-dish may take the place of 
the moulds. 

Hot Ham Sandwiches 
Spread half the slices of bread, 
prepared for sandwiches, with butter, 
the other half with flne-choj^ped ham, 
seasoned with mustard, if desired. 
Press the slices together in pairs. 
The slices should be cut very thin, and 
freed from crust. Beat an egg, add 
half a cup of rich milk, and soak 
the sandwiches in the mixture a few 
seconds. Heat two tablespoonfuls of 
butter or fat from mild-cured bacon, 
in the frying-pan, and in it brown 
the sandwiches, first on one side and 
then on the other 

Chicken Saute, Creole Style 
Separate two tender chickens into 
pieces at the joints, season with salt, 
and brown very slowly in one-fourth 
a cup or more of melted butter or 
bacon fat. Add, also, three onions, 
peeled and cut in slices. Cook until 
evenly and thoroughly browned, then 
sift in one-fourth a cup of flour, mix 
with the fat, and slowly brown. 
Stir in one pint of canned tomatoes, 
three or four sweet, green peppers, 
cut very fine after removal of the 
seeds, and a clove of garlic, two 
sprigs of parsley, and a piece of bay 
leaf, chopped fine. Cover, and let 



simmer, stirring occasionally, about 
half an hour. Add a cup of broth 
or hot water, and let simmer a sec- 
ond half-hour or until the chicken 
is tender, then add such seasoning 
as is needed, and serve at once. 

Stuffed Baked Apples 
Remove the cores from eight tart 
apples. Pare the apples, and put 
into an agate or enamelled baking- 
dish. Fill the cavities with orange 
marmalade, sprinkle with granulated 
sugar, and add half a cup of boiling 
water. Bake in a quick oven until 
tender. Serve, hot or cold, with 
cream as a breakfast or a dessert dish. 

Cabinet Pudding with Bananas 
Butter a quart mould, and dispose 
in it a layer of sponge cake, cut in 
thin slices, and over this arrange a 
layer of sliced bananas. Continue 
in this way until the mould is filled. 
Beat three eggs, add half a cup of 
sugar, and pour on, gradually, one 
pint of milk, either hot or cold. Add 
a few grains of salt, and turn into the 
mould. The cake will absorb all 
the hquid, by allowing it to stand a 
few seconds. Cover the mould, and 
let steam, or cook set in a pan of hot 
water in the oven, until the custard 
is set and the pudding is firm. Serve 
hot with hard or currant jelly sauce. 

Blackberry Sponge 
Press canned blackberries through 
a sieve, to remove the seeds. Heat 
this juice to the boihng-point. Fill 
an earthen bowl closely with small 
cubes of stale yeast bread, pouring 
over the bread, as it is fitted into place, 
the hot juice. Use all the juice the 
bread will absorb. Set the sponge 
aside in a cool place for some hours, 
then turn from the bowl. Serve with 
cream and sugar. 




JVfkr JBtrjeaMast Clxat 



By Janet M. Hill 



'HE actual pleasures of life are very simple, and are not, as a rule, what one has to 
run far after." — Kirk. 



BEGINNING with the cooler 
months and the Thanksgiv- 
ing season, there is abroad a 
pronounced and almost universal ten- 
dency to feast upon the good things 
of earth. We not only keep the reg- 
ular feast days, but we improvise 
additional occasions whereby we ma}^ 
entertain our friends. The table has 
ever been and always will be a central 
object in the concerns of life. The 
good feeling engendered by sharing 
its pleasures has always been availed 
of as exerting no uncertain influence 
in social, pohtical, and business mat- 
ters. 

But at times we become so infat- 
uated with the idea of entertaining 
at meals that a word of caution may 
not be amiss. These festive occa- 
sions, whether they be on a large 
or small scale, if they are to be held 
at home, need be carried out so as 
not to interfere with the normal 
plans of the household. The home 
is primarily a private institution. It 
is the place where the several mem- 
bers of the family are to find, each, 
his chief enjoyment. In entertain- 



ing friends, as it is often carried out, 
only an indirect influence is exerted 
in promoting the happiness of the 
family. If we entertain often, it 
might be well, occasionally, when 
our plans are well matured, to draw 
up a debtor and a credit column, 
with the final results of giving or 
omitting to give this particular func- 
tion, just as it has been planned, as 
the items of the account. With this 
balance sheet before us, we may 
modify our original lay-out to pro- 
vide pleasure for the entire family, 
and by so doing may really give more 
enjoyment and less entertainment 
to our guests. Indeed, it is said that 
"the verb to entertain has largely 
driven the verb to enjoy from the 
social page." 

The happiness of the largest num- 
bers is always a matter of considera- 
tion, and, when these include those 
who look to us, by virtue of birth- 
right, for care and comfort, should not 
their well-being and pleasure be given 
more than a passing thought'* Un- 
spoiled children find happiness in 
very simple things. 



After Breakfast Chat 



271 



If one has much money, she can 
buy expensive clothing; but nine 
times in ten she will not dress in as 
good taste as her sister, less favored 
in point of money, who makes up 
for this want in proper expenditure 
of thought and time upon her ward- 
robe. Likewise with meals, time and 
thought avail as well in the prepara- 
tion of dishes as in the fashioning 
of gowns. . But, alas ! the gowns are 
thought to make more show. We 
dress to be seen of our neighbors: 
we dine (except on occasion) in the 
privacy of our homes. So it often 
comes to pass that neither^ money, 
thought, nor time, is given to the 
dinner; while in respect to breakfast 
and supper, since breakfast foods are 
common and cheap, under the con- 
venient mantle of these is hidden 
many a culinary sin. 



There are countless homes in every 
section of the land — in small inland 
towns distant from railroad centres — 
where much variety in food supplies 
does not exist. 

Even in fashionable summer re- 
sorts no farther distant than twelve 
hours from a metropolis, it is rare to 
find fresh fruit, peaches or pine- 
apples, in season. This does not, 
however, condemn such places to 
that monotonous routine in food 
which soon renders even good dishes 
unpalatable. Aborigines in barren 
lands find products which redeem 
their scanty store, and take away 
sameness from their fare. Given sim- 
ply flour, milk, eggs, cabbage, and 
potatoes, with some form of fat, and 
what an endless variety of toothsome 
dishes can be prepared! and yet no 
housekeeper is restricted to these 
few commodities. 

• The sight of bits of lace, ribbon, 
and velvet, fires the imagination of 
one accustomed to the use of the 



needle; and she immediately sets 
out to see what she can fashion. So 
an after-breakfast inspection of the 
refrigerator or the market should 
arouse the enthusiasm of her who 
provides for a family. Too often 
enthusiasm is wanting from lack of 
practice in the work; but any one 
who desires can learn to cook well, 
and the satisfaction that comes from 
work well done is not very far re- 
moved from actual pleasure in the 
work. 

There are certain standard com- 
modities that must be kept in stock, 
but variety can be sectned by change 
in the less essential items. Chocolate 
will make a bonne bouche of many an, 
otherwise, neglected dish. As, for in- 
stance, a baked bread or tapioca pud- 
ding may be served with a chocolate 
hard sauce. Or chocolate may be 
added to the pudding itself, for which 
a liquid sauce may be provided. 

Occasionally, a common, every-day 
article may be made to take the place 
of something quite unobtainable, and 
with good results. Baked sweet po- 
tatoes may take the place of chest- 
nuts in many a fine dessert, and no 
one be the wiser. The potato will 
call for a little less sugar and more 
flavoring, and the texture will not 
be quite so delicate as when chest- 
nuts are used; but the dish will be a 
success. vSweet potato pie, made after 
the manner of squash pie, may mas- 
querade as a squash pie, and be 
relished by all who like the latter. 



Christmas Day Menus 

Caviar salad begins the elaborate 
home dinner. This Jiors d'cetivre was 
first served in Boston several years 
ago at a dinner given in honor of 
Patti. The season is most appro- 
priate for its general appearance as 
a favorite appetizer. Lemon juice 



272 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



is added to the caviar, and the whole 
is whipped lightly and very carefully 
with a silver fork, to avoid breaking 
the delicate eggs. A small portion 
of the mixture on the centre of a 
crisp heart leaf of lettuce is laid on 
each plate just before dinner is an- 
nounced. The caviar may be rolled 
in the leaf and eaten from the fingers, 
or salad forks may be used. Rye 
or Boston brown bread sandwiches, 
or crackers and olives, are passed at 
the same time. 

Fresh okra pods, boiled tender 
and cut in slices, add a pleasing touch 
of green to the consomme. If canned 
okra only be available, set aside the 
unused portion until next day, then 
reheat in boiling water, and serve 
on toast with Hollandaise, Bechamel, 
or cream sauce. 

In our fourth menu the hot bouillon 
is passed to the guests as they appear 
ready to go to their homes, and is 
drunk from bouillon or tea cups. 
The bouillon may be drawn from a 
silver urn, or poured from a tall' claret 
pitcher, or dipped from a punch bowl. 

In the menus for South Carolina 
ham timbales appear, a dish often 
given in these pages. After all the 
slices that can be neatly cut from a 
cold boiled or baked ham have been 
served, pass the remainder, from 
which a part of the fat has been 
taken, through a food-chopper, and 
press tightly into an earthen bowl, for 



use in timbales and other made dishes. 
If the timbales are for breakfast, have 
the moulds buttered and everything 
ready the night before. 

In the menus given for those afflicted 
with special disorders, it must be re- 
membered that the menus are written 
for general rather than specific cases. 
Bach individual, sick or well, must 
study his own condition and be a 
law unto himself. Especially is this 
the case with those who are troubled 
with hereditary biliousness, since ar- 
ticles that are one man's food are 
most truthfully another man's poison. 
The daily diet of any one should not 
be restricted too much. For chil- 
dren a reasonable variety of plain, 
nutritious food must be presented, 
in order to secure requisite nutrition 
and proper growth. 



For the Florentine meringue (illus- 
trated on page 259) roll puff or plain 
paste into a sheet about one-eighth 
of an inch thick, cut into pieces about 
two and a half inches square, put onto 
a baking tin, prick with a fork, and 
set aside to become chilled. Set to 
bake in a hot oven, lowering the heat 
after the paste is well risen. Put to- 
gether in pairs with jelly, lemon, 
orange, or pineapple paste between. 
Pipe a meringue on the top, and re- 
turn to the oven to cook the meringue. 
Serve on individual plates spread with 
paper doilies. 



Candies for Boys and Girls to make 

By Janet M. Hill (See Illustration on page 262) 



Fudge 

HEAT two cups of granulated 
sugar and tv/o -thirds a cup 
of milk to the boiling-point. 
Add two squares of chocolate, and 
stir constantly until the chocolate is 



melted. Boil eight minutes, stirring 
occasionally. Add three level table- 
spoonfuls of butter, and cook five or 
six minutes longer, then dip a skewer 
in cold water, take from the water 
and put into the boiling syrup, and 



Candies for Boys and Girls to make 



273 



then from the syrup into cold water. 
Pass the skewer in the cold water, 
between the thumb and finger, to 
push off the cooked mixture. If the 
mixture does not dissolve in the 
water, but forms a soft ball or mass 
between the thumb and finger, the 
cooking has been carried far enough, 
and the saucepan must be removed 
at once from the fire. Add a tea- 
spoonful of vanilla extract, and beat 
until the mixture is creamy and 
sugars around the edge of the sauce- 
pan. Then quickly pour into but- 
tered pans. A pan of the size se- 
lected for home-made bread will give 
candy three-fourths an inch in 
depth. When slightly cooled, mark 
in squares. Three-fourths a cup of 
glucose, corn, or like syrup may be 
substituted for the same measure of 
sugar. At the same time increase 
the quantity of butter to four table- 
spoonfuls. See illustration, page 262. 

Fruit Fudge 
Heat two cups of granulated sugar 
and two -thirds a cup of milk to the 
boiling-point. Boil eight minutes, 
then add one-fourth a cup of butter, 
and cook to the soft-ball stage (as 
described in the recipe for "fudge"). 
Remove from the fire, add a tea- 
spoonful of vanilla extract and half 
a cup or more of candied cherries, 
pineapple, angelica, citron, etc., cut 
in small pieces. Stir until the mixt- 
ure is creamy and begins to sugar 
around the edge of the saucepan. 
Turn into a buttered pan, having 
the mixture about three-fourths an 
inch deep. When nearly cold, cut 
to form cubes. 

Maple Sugar Fudge 

Heat two cups (one pound) of 

maple sugar, grated or broken in 

small pieces, and two -thirds a cup 

of milk to the boiling-point. Add 



one square or ounce of chocolate, and 
stir constantly until the chocolate is 
melted. Boil eight minutes, stirring 
occasionally. Add one-fourth a cup 
of butter, and boil about seven min- 
utes longer, or until a soft ball can 
be formed, when the syrup is tested 
in cold water (see recipe for fudge). 
Remove from the fire, and finish as 
in the preceding recipe. The choco- 
late may be omitted. From half to 
a whole cup of nuts, broken in pieces, 
may be added. In all candies where 
maple or brown sugar is used with 
milk, the milk is liable to curdle. If 
this feature seems at all objectionable, 
use water instead of milk. 

Penuchie 
Boil three cups of light brown 
sugar and one cup of milk until it 
forms a soft ball, when tried in cold 
water. Stir in two teaspoonfuls of 
butter and a cup of walnut or pecan 
nut meats. Continue to stir until 
the mixture becomes creamy and be- 
gins to stiffen, then drop by spoon- 
fuls onto a buttered plate or confec- 
tioner's paper. 

Maple-and-Nut Creams 
Break a pound of maple sugar into 
small pieces. Add half a cup of 
boiling water and bqil, without stirring, 
to the soft-ball stage. Remove from 
the fire and stir until creamy. Drop 
from a teaspoon in small rounds upon 
a buttered plate. Finish by pressing 
the unbroken half of an English wal- 
nut meat upon the top of each. 

Glace Nuts, etc. 
Boil one cup of granulated sugar 
and one-fourth a cup of water, with- 
out stirring, until the syrup registers 
about 305° F. on a sugar thermometer; 
345° F. is the caramel degree; 248° F. 
is the hard -ball, degree. Sugar boiled 
to any degree between these two may 



274 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



be used for coating nuts, etc. At 
the hard-ball stage, sugar forms a 
hard ball between the thumb and 
finger, when tested in cold water, as 
in making fudge. The caramel stage 
is known by the color. If one has no 
thermometer, remove the syrup soon 
after the hard-ball stage is noted. 
Have ready entire halves of walnut 
meats, blanched almonds, candied 
cherries stuffed with blanched al- 
monds, cooked chestnuts, either home- 
grown or imported, fresh white grapes 
on short stems, etc. Dip these, one 
by one, in the hot syrup, completely 
covering the article with the syrup, 
and remove to a buttered plate or 
oiled paper to cool. The article 
should be covered with the candy 
and a little should form around it 
on the plate. 

Jelly-and-Chocolate Bonbons 
Melt one cup of currant, quince, 
or apple jelly over hot water. Add 
a scant fourth a package of gelatine 



softened in one-fourth a cup of cold 
water and additional flavoring, if 
desired. Strain into tiny bonbon 
moulds, or into a larger mould, so 
as to cut into half-inch cubes. Drop, 
one by one, into chocolate fondant, 
melted at a low degree of heat, and 
drop onto oiled paper. 

Violet Balls 
Beat the unbeaten whites of two 
eggs into one-fourth a pound of al- 
mond paste, then add powdered sugar 
to make a paste that can be kneaded 
on a board dredged with confection- 
er's sugar. Break off small pieces, 
and roll them into balls. Dip these 
into the white of an egg, beaten slightly 
and strained, then roll' in candied 
violets, crushed with a rolling-pin. 
Two ounces of violets will cover a 
large number of balls. Blanched al- 
monds, browned delicately in the 
oven and cut in tiny bits, used in 
the place of the violets, give almond 
balls. 



Confections for the Holidays 

By T. Celestine Cummings 



CRYSTALLIZED fruits are a 
delicious confection. The 
fruits best adapted for this 
purpose are peaches, pears, plums, 
pineapples, cherries, and currants. 
A small incision is made in the side 
of the small fruits to extract the 
pits. The larger fruits are pared 
and quartered, and the pineapple 
is cut in slices half an inch thick 
across the fruit. The coarse fibre 
of the centre should be cut out of 
each slice. Weigh the fruit, and 
allow an equal quantity of the best 



white sugar. Make a rich syrup of 
a small cup of water to each pound of 
sugar. Boil for a few minutes, then 
add the fruit, and cook gently until 
it is transparent. Remove the fruit 
carefully on to a wire strainer, and 
let stand until perfectly cold. Then 
sprinkle liberally with powdered sugar, 
and set the strainer on a dish in a 
moderately warm oven for two hours, 
repeating the process imtil the juice 
has ceased to drip and the outside 
is dry and crystallized. It is then 
removed from the oven, and allowed 



Confections for the Holidays 



275 



to get perfectly cold before it is 
packed away in boxes between layers 
of waxed papers. Thus packed and 
stored away in a dry place, it will 
retain its perfect condition- an indefi- 
nite length of time. In the drying 
process do not hurry it by too much 
heat, as that will make the fruit 
tough and leathery. The oven 
should be a trifle above "lukewarm." 

Any of these "fresh" fruits make 
a delicious confection dipped in a 
flavored fondant. Melt the fondant 
to the consistency required. Pierce 
each small piece of fruit with a hat 
pin, dip in the fondant, and drop on 
paraffine paper to dry. 

Oriental Delight is another sweet- 
meat that can be easily made. Look 
over carefully one pound of figs. 
Seed and pit one pound, each, of 
dates and raisins, and put through 
a meat-chopper. Knead on a board 
sprinkled with confectioner's sugar 
until of a consistency to roll out to 
the thickness of half an inch. Cut 
out in tiny forms with a tin fancy 
cutter. Roll in sugar. 

C ocoanut M acaroons. — To one 
freshly grated cocoanut, or the same 
quantity of dessicated, add the whites 
of two eggs and one pound of pul- 
verized sugar. Set this on the fire 
and stir until it becomes so thick 
that the bottom of the saucepan can 
be seen as you stir, then remove from 
the stove. Have ready some sheets 
of oiled paper, and drop the mixture 
from a spoon. Leave an inch space 
between each "drop" as they spread. 
Set in a very hot oven until the tops 
are brown, when they are done. 

Glace Sweets. — Half a cup of water, 
a pinch of cream of tartar, and half 
a pound of loaf sugar. Boil until it 
thickens in cold water. Allow a 
portion of the glace to spread in a 
thin sheet on a pan. When it stiffens 



sufiiciently, cut out different butter- 
fly shapes. Marshmallows, cut into 
thin strips, are pressed in between 
the outspread wings for the body 
shape. Streak these with a bit of 
melted chocolate; and the wings 
should be flecked with drops, in but- 
terfly markings, of different colored 
fondants, if the butterflies are to be 
eaten. If only to be used decora- 
tively, the beautiful markings can 
be made by pressing in cut glass 
beads while the glace is a trifle soft. 

French Grapes. — Use a quantity 
of confectioner's sugar equal to the 
white of an tgg and a spoonful of 
water, to make a stiff paste. Work 
in a little vanilla flavoring and a pale 
green tint of color paste for Malaga 
grapes. The paste can be tinted 
any color to suit the fruit it encloses. 
Your grapes should be firm and free 
from blemish. Cover each with a 
thin consistency of the paste. Cut 
out an oval shape of the thin paste, 
and press smoothly around the grape 
at the stem end. Leave the short 
stems on, to pick them up by, as 
you would the hulls of strawberries. 
These are very attractive, arrayed 
in various colors, and they are easily 
made, requiring less care than if 
made with the fondant. 

Frozen Kisses. — ^These are a de- 
licious substitute for ice-cream or 
an accompaniment. Order from the 
confectioner the required number of 
kisses, made round instead of oblong 
and about twice the usual size. Care- 
fully remove a piece from the top of 
each. Make a filling in the propor- 
tion of one cup of strawberry or 
banana pulp and a scant half a cup 
of sugar to every cup of whipped 
cream. Set this away to freeze in 
salt and ice until just before serving. 
Fill in the kiss-shells, and sprinkle 
with chopped almonds. 




t 



mxies 



nmSi J^ 



xxstujers. 



THIS department is for the benefit and free use of our subscribers. Questions relating to 
menus and recipes, and those pertaining to culinary science and domestic economics in gen- 
eral, will be cheerfully answered by the editor. Communications for this department must reach 
us before the first of the month preceding that in which the answers are expected to appear. 
In letters requesting answer by mail, please enclose postage stamp; for menus, $i. Address 
queries to Janet M. Hill, Editor Boston Cooking-School Magazine^ y]Z Boylston Street, Boston, 
Mass. 



Query 809. — Mrs. G. E. S., Montreal, 
Canada: "Recipe for home-made fermented 
grape wine." 

Grape Wine 
Wash and stem the grapes, and 
squeeze through a coarse cloth. Al- 
low one quart of soft water to each 
three quarts of juice, and three 
pounds of brown sugar to four quarts 
of juice. Let stand six weeks in 
an open vessel, covered with a light 
cloth, to exclude the dust, and then 
put up in bottles. As fermentation 
ceases before bottling, we see no rea- 
son why fruit-jars, closed as in can- 
ning fruit, could not be used for 
storing this wine. Store in a cool 
dark place. Either wild or Concord 
grapes would be good for this purpose. 



Query 810.— Mrs. C. F., Union Hill, N.J.: 
"Recipe for angel food and a cooky made 
with rice flour." 



Angel Food 

Fill a cup with whites of eggs (it will 
probably take ten eggs) ; beat the 
whites until foamy, add half a level 
teaspoonful of cream of tartar and 
beat until dry. Then beat in one 
cup of fine granulated sugar. Add 
one teaspoonful of vanilla extract, 
then fold in one cup of flour, meas- 
ured after sifting. Do not beat in 
the flour. Sift it over the other 
ingredients, then with a perforated 
spoon cut down through the mixture, 
turn it over, and repeat the process 
until the ingredients are evenly 
blended. Bake in an unbuttered 
tube-pan with a stronger heat than 
for a sponge cake in which yolks 
of eggs are used. Thirty to fifty 
minutes (according to the size of 
the pan) will be required. Let cool 
in the inverted pan. ' We cannot 
give a recipe for the rice cookies. 



Queries and Answers 



277 



Query 811.— Mrs. H. W. H., New York 
City: "Recipes for giblet sauce to serve with 
roast turkey, and fried mush that is cnsp 
and delicious " 

Giblet Sauce 
Cover the neck of the turkey and 
the cleaned giblets with boiling water, 
and let simmer gently until tender, 
adding boiling water as needed. Chop 
the giblets very fine, first removing 
all gristle from the heart and giz- 
zard. When the ttukey is cooked, 
pour off the fat from the baking- 
pan, and pour into it the liquid in 
which the giblets were cooked. Let 
simmer a few moments, stirring 
meanwhile, to loosen the browned 
flour and meat glaze from the pan. 
In the mean time, in a small sauce- 
pan cook one-foinrth a cup of flour 
in one-fourth a cup of the fat, then 
gradually stir in one pint of liquid 
from the pan. If there be less liquid, 
use flour and fat accordingly, — two 
level tablespoonfuls of each to each 
cup of liquid. Let boil five minutes, 
add salt and pepper as needed, and 
strain over the chopped giblets. If 
preferred, the sauce may be made 
in the baking-dish after the fat, 
with the exception of what is needed 
for the sauce, has been poured off. 
When the pan is used, let the sauce 
simmer slowly for some minutes, 
to take up the brown deposits in the 
pan. 

Fried Corn-meal Mush 

Put one teaspoonful of salt into 
a quart of boiling water, then sprinkle 
in, with the fingers of one hand, 
a very little at a time, three-fourths 
a cup of Indian meal, stirring con- 
stantly with the other hand. Do 
not add meal after the mush ceases 
to boil. Wait, stirring meanwhile, 
until the mush is again boiling, then 
go on sprinkling in the meal. After 
all the meal has been added, set the 



saucepan into boiling water and let 
the mush cook very slowly, covered, 
for several hours. Three hours will 
suffice, but a longer time is preferable. 
Tmn into a bread-pan, or brick 
mould, and set aside to become cold. 
Then cut in half -inch slices. Have 
ready in a frying-pan hot fat cooked 
from fat salt pork (unsmoked). Into 
this put the slices of mush, and cook 
on one side until well browned, then 
turn and cook on the other side. 
The mush will brown quicker, if it 
be first rolled in wheat flour. The 
fat should not be deep enough to 
float the slices nor so scanty as to 
occasion burning. 



Query Si 2. —Mrs. E. F. M., Central City 
la.; "Menu for a missionary tea." 

Menu, Missionary Tea 

Tables seating eight. (Presided over by 
matrons of the society. Yoimg ladies as 
waitresses. Some tables laid with coffee 
service, others with tea service.) 

I. 

Scalloped Oysters. 

or 

Steamed Chicken au Gratin. 

Cranberry Sauce or Fruit Jelly. 

Fine-shredded Cabbage, Boiled Dressing. 

Cold Boiled Ham or Tongue. 

Scalloped Potatoes. 

Yeast Rolls (Reheated). 

Sliced Bananas, Cubes of Lemon Jelly, 

Whipped Cream. 

Tea or Coffee. 

II. 

(Guests not seated at tables.) 
Rolled Lettuce Sandwiches 
Deviled Ham Sandwiches. 
Coft'ee. 

Ice-cream. Little Cakes. 



Query 813.— Mrs. H. W H., New York 
City: "Are the magazines indexed?" 

Index to Magazine 
A complete index of each cop}- of 
the magazine may be found, begin- 
ning on the page marked ii. at the 



278 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



bottom of the page, and completed on 
the page marked iv. An index made 
up of the several indexes appearing 
for the full year — that is, for the 
volume — is now given in the May 
number of each year. Volumes III. 
and IV. were not indexed. 



QuEjRY 814.— Mrs. K. M. P., New York 
City: "Accurate recipes for chestnut mush, 
baked rhubarb with orange peel, and little 
caramel custards renversee. Where can I ob- 
tain the book 'Fifty Years in a Maryland 
Kitchen' ?" 

Fifty Years in a Maryland Kitchen 
"Fifty Years in a Maryland 
Kitchen," published by J. B. Lippin- 
cott of Philadelphia, is now out of 
print. It can be found occasionally 
at long-established public libraries 
or in second-hand bookstores. 

Chestnut Mush 
In the absence of a supply of chest- 
nut flour with which to experiment 
we cannot give exact proportions of 
water and flour. Try making a small 
quantity of mush as follows, then, 
if a firmer or less firm consistency 
be desired, when next making the 
mush add to or take from the measure 
of flour. Have a pint of water boil- 
ing over the fire. Mix half a cup of 
chestnut flour and half a teaspoonful 
of salt with just enough cold water to 
make a smooth mixture that will 
pour. Stir this into the boiling water ; 
continue stirring until it thickens, 
then cover, and let cook over hot 
water about an hour. It should 
be of the consistency of cornstarch 
blanc-mange. Turn into a mould 
or bread-pan, and, when cold, cut 
in slices and fry as corn-meal or other 
mush. 

Baked Rhubarb with Orange Peel 

Wash, wipe dry and clean, about 

a pound of rhubarb, cut in half-inch 



lengths, and dispose these in an agate 
or white-lined dish in layers, sprink- 
ling each layer with sugar. The 
quantity of sugar varies with one's 
taste, probably a cup and a half 
in all will be none too much. Add 
with the sugar thin slices of candied 
orange peel, or, failing this, use fresh 
peel. Pour in two or three table- 
spoonfuls of hot water. Cover the 
dish (do not use tin), and bake slowly 
until the rhubarb is tender. 

Little Caramel Custards Renversee 
Stir three-fourths a cup of granu- 
lated sugar in a saucepan over a hot 
fire. Stir constantly until the sugar 
is changed to a liquid of a light brown 
color. Turn a little of this caramel 
into an individual timbale mould 
(keep the rest hot), and holding the 
mould in a cloth, in both hands, 
turn it round and round to line with 
the caramel. The caramel will harden 
almost instantly upon the inside of 
the mould, and the work must be 
done quickly. Proceed in the same 
manner with five or six moulds. 
Reheat the caramel in the sauce- 
pan, if necessary, before lining each 
mould. Beat three whole eggs, two 
yolks, half a teaspoonful of salt, and 
One-third a cup of sugar. Add one 
pint of milk, mix, and strain into 
the moulds. Cook, set in hot water, 
on a folded paper, until firm. When 
cold, turn from the moulds and 
serve. 



Query 815.— F. W. H., N. Chelmsford, 
Mass.: "Recipes for molasses drop cakes, 
also light-colored cakes not sponge." 

Molasses Drop Cakes 
Melt two -thirds a cup of butter in 
two-thirds a cup of boiling water. 
Add one pint of molasses, and stir 
in four cups of flour sifted with one 
tablespoonful, each, of soda and 



Queries and Answers 



279 



ginger, one teaspoonful of cinnamon, 
and half a teaspoonful of salt. Then 
add flour as needed, to make a batter 
that will drop from the spoon. Drop 
the batter in rounds some distance 
apart, as the cakes should spread a 
little in baking. Bake one cake 
first, to determine accurately about 
the quantity of flour. The batter 
should be of such consistency that 
it cannot be poured from the spoon 
in a continuous stream, but will 
break and drop from the spoon. 
Probably five or six cups will be 
needed. 

Light-colored Drop Cakes 
Cream half a cup of butter. Add 
a cup of sugar, one beaten egg, half 
a cup of sour cream, and two cups 
and a half of flour, sifted with half 
a teaspoonful of soda. Caraway 
seeds may be stirred in at pleasure. 
Drop from the spoon, and bake in 
a slow oven. 

Chocolate, Nut or Fruit Doubles 
Beat two eggs until thick and light- 
colored. Add two -thirds a cup of 
sugar, half a cup of grated chocolate, 
half a cup of chopped pecan or walnut 
meats, half a cup of candied cherries, 
sultanas, and citron, chopped fine, 
half a teaspoonful of salt, a teaspoon- 
ful of vanilla extract, and a cup of 
sifted flour, sifted again with one 
level teaspoonful and a half of bak- 
ing-powder. Mix thoroughly, and 
drop by the teaspoonful onto a but- 
tered tin. Shape into rounds, spread- 
ing the mixture but little. Press 
half a nut meat or a candied cherry 
into the centre of each, and bake 
about ten minutes. The mixture will 
spread a little in baking. Bake on 
the floor of the oven, finishing on 
the grate, if necessary. The recipe 
will make two dozen or two dozen 
and a half of small cakes. Spread 



the undersides of one-half the cakes 
with jelly or frosting, and press the 
other halves upon them. If wished 
moist, set aside in a stone jar. If 
crisp cakes are preferred, a tin recep- 
tacle should be selected. 



Query 816.— Mrs. F. E. H., Redlands, 
Cal. : "Ideas for entertaining and menu for 
a Kaffee-klatsch." 

KafFee-klatsch 
The German Kaffee-klatsch is a 
very simple affair. Verbal invitations 
may be given or notes sent out by 
a messenger, as is most convenient. 
The young women who present them- 
selves, in answer to the invitations, 
bring with them some choice bits of 
needlework or knitting. Tongues 
keep time with busy fingers. Before 
dark coffee and cakes of some sort 
are served, after which the young 
women take their departure. Ger- 
man coffee cake, springerlie, Berlin 
rings, pfefferniisse, German crisps, 
egg rings, and almond cake, all of 
which have been given in the maga- 
zine, — egg rings on page 263 of this 
number, — are appropriate cakes for 
such an occasion. We repeat the 
recipe for almond cake made of 
wheat bread, which was given as a 
charlotte russe. 

Almond Cake 
Beat the yolks of four eggs until 
light and thick. Beat in, gradually, 
one cup of sugar, one-third a cup of 
grated chocolate, half a cup of 
blanched-and-powdered almonds, and 
three-fourths a cup of grated-and- 
sifted bread crumbs, or rolled-and- 
sifted cracker crumbs, mixed with 
one teaspoonful of baking-powder. 
Finish by folding in the whites of 
four eggs, beaten dry. Bake in layer 
cake pans. Put fruit jelly between 
the layers, and frost the top. 



28o 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



Query 817.— Mrs. G. E. S., Oakland, Cal : 
"Recipe for a dish, not sweet, that may be 
taken to a convalescent." 

Baked Sweetbreads with Celery 
Puree 

Soak and wash thoroughly two 
large round sweetbreads. Let the 
water be cold, and change it several 
times. Drain, cover with boiling 
water, and let simmer twenty min- 
utes. Remove to a baking-pan, and 
pour over them half a cup or more 
of well-reduced chicken broth. Bake 
about twenty minutes, basting four 
or five times with the liquid in the 
pan. Sprinkle lightly with salt when 
half cooked. In the meanwhile cook 
a head of celery (leaves, stalks, and 
root freed from blemishes), cut in 
small pieces, in boiling water and 
chicken stock until tender. Strain 
off the liquid, pressing it from the 
celery with a plate, and set the liquid 
aside for a soup. Press the celery 
through a puree sieve, reheat, and 
set over hot water, while the beaten 
yolks of two eggs, mixed with a table- 
spoonful of thick cream or creamed 
butter, is stirred through the puree. 
Let cook until the egg thickens. 
Season with salt, and turn upon a 
dish. Lay the sweetbreads above, 
and the dish is ready to serve. To 
send from the house, set into a hot 
earthen dish, spread a hot towel 
over the dish, and above this place 
a hot earthen cover. Boiled rice 
or a tomato puree may take the 
place of the celery puree. With 
the boiled rice, add half a cup of 
cream to the baking-pan, and thicken 
with the egg yolks. A chestnut 
pur^e would be suitable for some 
patients. 



Query 818.— Mrs. S. E. G., New York 
City: "Recipes for chestnut desserts, other 
than Nesselrode pudding, compote with 



syrup, and chestnut puree with whipped 
cream." 

Chestnut Souffle 
Shell and blanch two dozen large 
chestnuts, boil until tender, then 
pound in a mortar and press through 
a puree sieve. Melt one-fourth a cup 
of butter. Add the pulp, half a tea- 
spoonful of salt, half a cup of granu- 
lated sugar, and mix thoroughly. 
Then add, gradually, one cup of thin 
cream or rich milk, and stir constantly 
until it begins to thicken, then stir 
vigorously, to keep it from sticking 
to the pan. When the mixture leaves 
the sides of the pan, remove from 
the fire and add the well-beaten yolks 
of four eggs, a teaspoonful of vanilla 
extract, and fold in the whites of the 
eggs, beaten dry. Turn into a but- 
tered baking-dish, and let bake, set 
in a dish of hot water, until well 
risen and firm in the centre. Serve 
with creamy or sabayon sauce; or, 
as a Christmas dessert, serve with 
maraschino sauce. This recipe will 
serve eight or ten people. 

Creamy Sauce 
Boil one cup of sugar and half a 
cup of water about six minutes, then 
pour in a fine stream, beating mean- 
while, onto the white of an egg, 
beaten until foamy, but not dry. 
Set the sauce into a dish of cold water, 
and beat, occasionally, until cold, 
then fold in a cup of whipped cream. 
Flavor to taste. 

Maraschino Sauce 
Sift together two teaspoonfuls of 
cornstarch and half a cup of granu- 
lated sugar. Pour on one cup of 
boiling water, and cook five minutes. 
Add half a tablespoonful of butter, 
one-third a cup of maraschino cher- 
ries, cut in halves, half a cup of mara- 
schino syrup, and a teaspoonful of 
lemon juice. 



Queries and Answers 



281 



Chestnut Custard Renversee 
Cook one cup of sugar in a small 
saucepan over a hot fire, stirring con- 
stantly, until the sugar melts (see 
page 278), then turn into a charlotte 
mould, quart size. Take up the 
mould by a towel held in both hands, 
and turn from side to side until the 
"burnt" sugar coats the inside of 
the mould. Set aside while the cus- 
tard mixture is made ready. Shell 
and blanch two dozen large chest- 
nuts (see page 203, November mag- 
azine) (a generous cup of small chest- 
nuts may be used), and cook until 
tender, then drain, pound in a mortar 
and press through a sieve. Add half 
a cup of sugar, three whole eggs, and 
the yolks of three more, beaten with- 
out separating, and mix thoroughly. 
Add one cup and a half of milk and 
a teaspoonful of vanilla, and strain 
into the mould. Let bake, set on 
several folds of paper in a dish of 
hot water, until firm in the centre. 
When the water is poured about the 
mould, let it be at the boiling-point, 
but do not let it boil thereafter. 
When the custard has become chilled, 
turn from the mould, first loosening 
from the mould at the top, if neces- 
sary, onto a serving-dish. The car- 
amel will form a sauce around the 
custard. This will serve six or eight 
persons. 

Query 819.— A. H., Harlem, N.Y.: 
"Kindly explain more fully the recipe for 
mince-meat given on pages 229 and 334 of 
the December, 1901, magazine. How is 
the white stock made that is used in Bech- 
amel sauce for asparagus and other vege- 
tables?" 

Mince Meat Given December, 
190T 

The last word of the first line on 
page 234 should read cook, not cool. 
The fruit juice and coft'ee might be 
added with the other ingredients, 



and the brandy just as it is removed 
from the fire. The mince-meat will 
keep, stored in jars as fruit is canned. 

White Stock for Bechamel Sauce 
Use veal, chicken, or a combina- 
tion of these. Take one pint of 
water for each pound of meat and 
bone (as sent from market). The 
cooking should be done at a gentle 
simmer. When completed, add hot 
water, if needed, to make as many 
pints of broth as there are pounds 
of meat and bone. For each two 
pounds of material taken add one 
teaspoonful of salt, one teaspoonful 
of sweet herbs, one tablespoonful, 
each, of fine-cut celery and onion, 
a sprig of parsley, and a bay leaf, 
or bit of mace. Broth from veal 
or chicken, cooked for the table, 
reduced by evaporation in an open 
saucepan, with vegetables added, is 
often more convenient for this use. 



QuKRY 820. — Miss C. C, Cincinnati, Ohio: 
"In preparing cherry mousse with preserved 
cherries, and in making a preparation of 
grated pineapple (raw), whipped cream, and 
beaten whites of eggs, I was unsuccessful 
in thickening the fruit juice, though I used, 
finally, a box of gelatine to a cup of the 
fruit. What was the trouble?" 

Gelatine with Cherry and Pine- 
apple Juice 

We do not understand about the 
cherry mousse. Have never had such 
trouble and see no reason for it. The 
action of the pineapple juice is quite 
another matter. Pineapple juice 
contains a ferment that digests pro- 
teid substances. Pineapples are the 
only fruit known that possesses this 
principle, and are very valuable ac- 
cordingly. If the liquid that would 
not thicken had been tasted, it would 
have been found to be bitter. On 
this account pineapple cannot be 
used with cream, milk, eggs, and gel- 



282 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



atine, until after the action of this rolhng-pin, to flatten, then roll out 



digestive principle has been done 
away with in cooking. Heat at 
212° F. destroys this principle. 
Cook the pineapple, and then con- 
tinue according to the recipe. 



Query 821. — A. H., Boston, Mass.. "In 
the recipes for halibut mousse and fish 
roulettes is the fish cooked or uncooked 
before chopping? Was the recipe given for 
Russian bread correct? I used only six in- 
stead of eight cups of flour. Will this mixt- 
ure make Russian buns? Was a sauce given 
for the bread? Recipe for inexpensive pie- 
crust that will be crisp and dry. and does 
not get moist after baking. 

Fish for Mousse and Roulettes 
The fish in both these recipes is 
chopped and pressed through a sieve 
before cooking. 

Recipe for Russian Bread 
The recipe for Russian bread was 
correct. It reads ''about eight cups, 
in all." Enough flour must be used 
to make a dough which, when braided, 
will not flatten out. Brands of flour 
vary in thickening qualities. . House- 
keepers do not measure flour alike. 
The mixture will make one kind of 
Russian buns. A sauce was not given 
for the bread. Possibly you wished 
brioche buns. 

Inexpensive, Crisp, Dry Pie-crust 
Pass through a sieve three cups 
of flour that has already been sifted, 
half a teaspoonful of salt, and a level 
teaspoonful of baking-powder. With 
the tips of the fingers or a knife work 
into this two-thirds a cup of butter. 
When well mixed, stir the ingredients 
to a dough with cold water. Mix 
with a knife, and use no more water 
than is needed to make a dough that 
will take up the particles in the bowl. 
About two-thirds a cup of water 
will be needed. Turn the dough 
onto a floured board, pat with the 



into a sheet, and shape like a jelly 
roll. Cover closely, and set aside 
in a cold place until ready to use, 
then cut off from the end and roll 
out to fit the plate. 



Query 822 —F. L., South Chatham, N.H. : 
"I am not successful with yeast buns, when 
I make them quite sweet and with a good 
deal of fruit. Though the sponge is light, 
the mixture does not rise well after the 
fruit, sugar, and rest of the flour have been 
added. What is the remedy?" 

Yeast Buns with Sugar and Fruit 
Double the quantity of yeast that 
you are accustomed to use, and see 
if you are not more successful. 



Query 823.— C. A. S., Brooklyn, N.Y : 
"Should pastry always be rolled from the 
maker or is this immaterial ? How is ma- 
raschino pronounced?" 

Rolling Pastry 
Pastry may be rolled toward or 
away from the operator, or it may 
be rolled to either side with a sweep- 
ing motion, to broaden or otherwise 
shape it. The objectionable feature 
is in rolling the pastry hack and forth. 
Roll with a long continuous motion, 
then take up the rolling-pin, and start 
again. The easiest way is to start 
each time at the portion of the paste 
nearest, and roll lightly to the end 
of the paste, either straight away or 
to one side. Maraschino is pro- 
nounced ma-ra-she'-no. 



For the china pansy baskets, the 
new style bouillon cup with salt and 
pepper shakers, and the Turkish cof- 
fee cups we are indebted to the cour- 
tesy of Jones, McDuffee & Stratton. 
The Swiss sandwich server of pol- 
ished wood, and the nut-cracker were 
loaned by F. A. Walker & Co. Both 
are well-known Boston firms. 



ROYAL Baking: 

Powder never cakes 
or spoils, and if used 
as directed always 
makes delicious, 
pure, wholesome, 
perfect food. 
Other bak- 
ing powders 
will not hold 
their leavening 
strength until re- 
quired for use. They may work one 
day but fail the next. Such pow- 
ders are a vexation, and waste good 
flour, eggs and butter. ROYAL 
works uniformly. The last spoon- 
ful in the can is as good as the first. 




This 

Is the 

Best 



ROYAL BAKING POWDER CO., NEW-YORK. 



Notes and Correspondence 

A DDRESS communications for this department to Janet M. Hill, Editor of the Boston 



Cooking School Magazine, 372 Boylston Street, Boston. 



The Lectures 
A series of lectures free to the 
friends of Simmons College are given 
at the rooms of the college, 739 Boyls- 
ton Street, on Wednesday afternoons. 
These lectures have special reference 
to the interests of the Depart- 
ment of Household Economics. John 
Graham Brooks gives the last two 
lectures, in a series of eight lectures 
on "Social and Industrial Organiza- 
tions," on December 9 and 16. On 
December 9 the subject will be "The 
Co-operation of the Future"; on De- 
cember 16, "General Summary of 
Results." Three lectures by Mrs. 
Mary Ambrose Eastman on "The 
Home as related to Education" will 
be given as follows: January 6, 
"Home Life and the Intellectual De- 
velopment of Women"; January 13, 
"The Civic Opportunities of Women" ; 
January 20, "Women's Work in Do- 
mestic Textiles." 



Miss Helen Winslow, of Boston, 
has just published a directory of busi- 
ness women living in the Hub. It 
is the first volume of what she hopes 
will be a regular annual publication 
hereafter. Nearly half of the eight}- 
two pages in the book are devoted 
to teachers. This is probably the 
first business directory to charac- 
terize teachers as business women. 
There are three and a half pages of 
dressmakers, nearly as many milli- 
ners, and 105 regular medical prac- 
titioners, besides Christian Scientists 

(Continued on page xii) 



Couldn't Fool him 

Doctor was Firm and was Right 

Many doctors forbid their patients 
to drink coffee, but the patients still 
drink it on the sly and thus spoil all 
the doctor's efforts and keep them- 
selves sick. Sometimes the doctor 
makes sure that the patient is not 
drinking coffee, and there was a case 
cf that kind in St. Paul where a busi- 
ness man said : 

"After a very severe illness last 
winter which almost caused my death 
the doctor said Postum Food Coffee 
was the only thing that I could drink, 
and he just made me quit coffee and 
drink Postum. My illness was caused 
by indigestion from the use of tea 
and coffee. 

"The state of my stomach was so 
bad that it became terribly inflam.ed 
and finally resulted in a rupture. I 
had not drunk Postum ver\^ long be- 
fore my lost blood was restored and 
my stomach was well and strong, and 
I have now been using Postum for 
almost a year. When I got up from 
bed after my illness, I weighed 98 
pounds, and now my weight is 120. 

"There is no doubt that Postum 
was the reason for this wonderful im- 
provement, and I shall never go back 
to tea or coffee, but shall always stick 
to the food drink that brought me 
back to health and strength." Name 
given by Postum Co., Battle Creek, 
Mich. 

Look in each package for a copy of 
the famous Httle book, "The Road to 
Wellville." 



Mellin's 

Food 



The gracious hoy who did 

adorn 
The loorld whereinto he was 

horn'' 




Kenneth Lester Fox, Three and 



-half 



old 



We tried nearly every other infant food known^ and none of them seemed to agree. 
Finally we called a doctor, who commenced to use Mellin's Food for him. He immedi- 
ately began to gain, and has been very healthy ever since. Kenneth's Father. 



We want to send you a free sample of Mellins Food for trial. 
MELLIN'S FOOD COM PAN Y, Boston, Mass. 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



(^Continued from page x) 
and other healers of the non-regular 
schools. Boston has sixteen women 
lawyers. There are several pages 
of women ice dealers, booksellers, 
druggists, jewellers, confectioners, 
coal dealers, bakers, grocers, furni- 
ture dealers, florists, and so on. One 
woman disposes of junk, another deals 
in second-hand building materials, 
yet another is a paper-hanger. There 
are five women dentists, and two 
women are the proprietors of labora- 
tory kitchens. 



Ella Newton Rhoades, class of 
1903, Boston Cooking School, has 
accepted a position in settlement 
work connected with St. Martha's 
House, Philadelphia, Pa. 



Mary C. Jones, class of 1902, Boston 
Cooking School, was married in Sep- 
tember to Mr. Preston Dexter For- 
bush, at the home of Miss Jones, 
South Framingham, Mass. 



Miss Virginia Miller, of Kansas 
City, Mo., class of '98, Boston Cook- 
ing School, is spending some months 
in Boston, taking lessons in cookery 
and allied branches of domestic sci- 
ence. Miss Miller's specialty is in 
the line of demonstration work. 



Miss Lile G. Deeter, graduate of 
Boston Cooking School, has been en- 
gaged by the Presto Department of 
the H. O. Company, of Buffalo, N.Y., 
to test recipes and make suggestions 
for advertising purposes. Miss Deeter 
has rare qualifications to conduct 
successfully so important interests. 



Speaking of anti-obesity exercise, 
a "Mother of Five" has written to 
a daily paper: "The best exercise 
any woman can take is to sweep a 
room every day, and not be sparing 
of running up and down stairs. I 
have done this from sixteen to sixty- 



two, and there is nothing I enjoy 
more." Dear lady! There are those 
who would prefer being fat, horrible 
as such a state is deemed by modern 
woman ! 

Both Feel 

What Proper Food does for Both Mind and 
Body 

Physical health, mental health, in- 
deed almost everything good on this 
earth, depend in great measure upon 
proper food. 

Without health nothing is worth 
while, and health can be won almost 
every time by proper feeding on the 
scientific food Grape-nuts. 

A California trained nurse proved 
this: "Three years ago I was taken 
very sick, my work as a trained nurse 
having worn me out both in body and 
mind, and medicine failed to relieve 
me at all. After seeing a number of 
physicians and specialists and getting 
no relief, I was very much discouraged 
and felt that I would die of general 
nervous and physical collapse. 

"My condition was so bad I never 
imagined food would help me, but 
on the advice of a friend I tried Grape- 
nuts. The first package brought me 
so much relief that I quit the medi- 
cines and used Grape-nuts steadily 
three times a day. The result was 
that within 6 months I had so com- 
pletely regained my strength and 
health that I was back nursing again, 
and I feel the improvement in my 
brain power just as plainly as I do 
in physical strength. 

"After my own wonderful experi- 
ence with Grape-nuts I have recom- 
mended it to my patients with splen- 
did success, and it has worked wonders 
in the cases of many invalids whom 
I have attended professionally." 
Name giyen by Postum Co., Battle 
Creek, Mich. 

Took in each package for a copy of 
the famous little book, "The Road to 
Wellville." 



Advertisements 




^hdts miflded 
ofGoodCoffeef 

That part of the great public 

having the opportunity and 

pleasure of drinking 

WHITE 
HOUSE 

is unanimous in praising its super- 
lative excellence — of quality and 
flavor. Under the circumstances, 
we feel justified in asking YOU to 
order it from your grocer — being 
quite particular to insist that he 
takes not the liberty of substitut- 
ing something else. <' WHITE 
HOUSE " or nothing. So certain 
are we that << White House " will 
please you, we will send you a 
free sample^ in a miniature can 
similar in style to our commercial 
packages — which latter are in- 
variably either I or 2 lb. tin cans, 
handsomely labelled in white, blue, 
and gold, with a cut of the White 
House , at Washington , prominently 
displayed. We may be addressed 
either at Boston or Chicago. 

DViriNEI.L-'WRIGHT CO. 

Principal Coffee R-oasters 



CUDAHY'S 

Rex Brand 
Beef Extract 

"THE TASTE TELLS" 

n"5 Beef Tea 



For Soups, Sauc 
Savory Sundries a 

Secure a Set of tHe 

Famous CudaHy^ A-1 Silver 

Plated Botxillon Spoons 




When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 



Book Reviews 



A 



NY BOOK reviewed or advertised in this 
magazine will be sent postpaid on receipt of 
the price by the Cooking-School Magazine. 



The: Heart of Rome. By F. Marion 
Crawford. Cloth, i2mo. $1.50. 
New York: The Macmillan Com- 
pany. 

The famous "lost waters" of Rome 
play an important part in Mr. Marion 
Crawford's latest novel, "The Heart 
of Rome." These mysterious waters, 
ice-cold and crystal clear, traverse 
the underground portions of the city, 
and they appear in various places, 
coming no one knows whence, and 
flowing with equal rapidity no one 
knows whither. Utter mystery has 
always surrounded them; and in 
times of siege they were precious in- 
deed to the occupants of Renaissance 
and post-Renaissance palaces. The 
adventures of Mr. Crawford's hero 
and heroine in the rambling cellars 
under the old Palace of the Conti, 
when the "lost water" overflows its 
channel and threatens to drown them, 
are described, it is said, with vivid- 
ness and charm unusual even for the 
author of "In the Palace of the 
King." 

Of this really interesting story the 
author himself says: "If it has inter- 
ested or pleased those who have read 
it, the writer is glad. If it has not, 
he can find some consolation in hav- 
ing made two young people unutter- 
ably blissful in his own imagination, 
whereas he manifestly had it in his 
power to bring them to awful grief; 
and, when one cannot make living 
men and women happy in real life, 
it is a harmless satisfaction to do it 
in a novel. If this one shows any- 



thing worth learning about the world, 
it is that a gifted man of strong char- 
acter and honorable life may do a 
foolish and generous thing whereby 
he may become in a few days the 
helpless toy of fate. He who has 
never repented of a good impulse 
which has brought great trouble to 
other people must be indeed a selfish 
soul." 



Good-bye, Proud Wored. By Ellen 

Olney Kirk. Cloth, i2mo. $1.50. 

Boston: Houghton, Mifflin & Co. 

Mrs. Kirk has written clever and 
wholesome stories; and this, her latest 
work, is no exception. The title 
might suggest a sad narrative, but 
this is not the case. The reader is 
introduced at once to the editorial 
staff of a great newspaper in the 
metropolis, with a brilliant young 
woman, the heroine of the story, at 
the head of the "Hearth and Home 
Department." With growing interest 
we follow the somewhat strange 
though peaceful career of this gifted 
young woman to the final denoue- 
ment, when, through unforeseeable 
events, she becomes by inheritance 
and marriage the happy mistress of 
a fine, old, ancestral estate. 

The story is well conceived. It 
deals with characters and incidents 
which are familiar to modern life. 
It affords cheerful, agreeable reading, 
and at the same time it leaves a 
favorable impression upon the mind 
of the reader. 

{Continued on page xvi.) 




JRoe^s-t 
tna iti at 



gS SO SAITH THE, TURKE,Y. He has learned from experience. 
WA Surely he ought to know. Give him a last chance to appear at his best 

% For the Thanksgiving Dinner. 




Make Cooking a Pleasure. 

Send for Descripti>e Tircnlar of complete line of HUB Ranges and latest adyertising noreltyB. 

SMITH & ANTHONY COMPANY, 
48=54 Union St., Boston, Mass. 

IManufacturers of Hub Ranges and Heaters and Sanitas Pliimb- 



i<^ '^pei.ialiic- It not sold by your 



dealer 






The leading cooking schools and best cooks use HUB Ranges because they 00, 









When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 



Book Reviews 



Children of the Tenements. By 
Jacob A. Riis. Cloth, i2mo. $1.50. 
New York: The Macmillan Com- 
pany. 

Mr. Jacob A. Riis calls his new 
book "Children of the Tenements.'* 
He declares that he never could 
make up even the least detail of a 
plot, and that he has always had to 
wait until a story came to him com- 
plete before he could tell it. Every 
incident described in this volume of 
some forty stories of the slums of 
New York actually happened the 
way it is here described. For twenty- 
five years Mr. Riis has been the most 
active fighter for a chance for the 
children of the poor to start life 
fairly. If any one knows the New 
York slums, it is he; and he has put 
into this book the most interesting 
and dramatic incidents that have 
come to his knowledge during the 
long "Battle with the Slum." 

This book is worth reading. The 
stories are not invented: they are 
chronicles of real life. Naught else 
than praise and commendation can 
be said of them. 



On the We-a Trail. By Caroline 
Brown. Cloth, i2mo. $1.50. New 
York : The Macmillan Company. 
This story incidentally portrays 
the vicissitudes and the lives of the 
American pioneers in the "Great 
Wilderness," as the country west of 
the Alleghanies was generally known. 
The capture and recapture of Fort 
Sackville, at Vincennes on the Wa- 
bash, are important features among 
the central incidents. 

The action begins in mid-wilder- 
ness, and culminates with the fall 
of the fort under the assault of 
George Rogers Clark. Here the 
lovers are reunited after months of 
separation and adventures. They 
were first parted by the savages, 
who murdered the heroine's entire 
family save herself. Driven into the 
forest, she is taken captive by the 



Indians. She makes her escape. 
Later she is taken to the fort by one 
of Hamilton's coureurs de hois, and 
adopted into the family of the 
commandant. The lover meantime 
wanders from Kaskaskia to Detroit 
in pursuit of the tribe which has 
taken captive his sweetheart, and 
has various adventures by the way, 
many of which take place on the 
famous We-a Trail. The action of 
the story is practically confined to 
Indiana, the author's native State; 
and it forms an important addition 
to the increasing number of novels 
dealing with the early life of that 
region of the country. 



Literary Notes 
Next week the Macmillan Company 
will publish Mrs. Alice Morse Earle's 
new book, "Two Centuries of Costume 
in America." The subject of Amer- 
ican costume, which has been singu- 
larly neglected, is now presented for 
the first time in an adequate manner. 



Mr. T. M. Clark's "The Care of a 
House" has roused a surprising 
amount of attention and interest. 
All sorts of books telling how to build 
houses have been published recently; 
but this is the first which tells the 
house-owner how to keep his house 
in repair, and how to look out for 
floors, ceilings, roofs, fireplaces, fur- 
naces, ranges, gas fixtures, and plumb- 
ing. 



Platfs 




The Odorless Disinfectant 

Destroy disease germs. Sold in quart bottles only by drug- 
gists, high-class grocers, and house-furnishing dealers. 
Manufactured by HBNRY B. PLATT, New York 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 



Advertisements 



y»f»»»»»i^#»» * ** * **»**»*»» » *<' ^ 




THE BEST OF ALL AND 

For over sixty years Mrs. Winslow's 
Soothing Syrup has been used by mothers 
for their children while teething. Are you 
disturbed at night and broken of your rest 
by a sick child suffering and crying with 
pain of Cutting Teeth ? If so, send at once 
and get a bottle of " Mrs. Winslow's Scath- 
ing Syrup" for Children Teething. Its 
value is incalculable. It will relieve the 
poor little sufferer immediately. Depend 
upon it, mothers, there is no mistake 
about it. It cures diarrhoea, regulates the 
Stomach and Bowels, cures Wind Colic, 
softens the Gums, reduces Inflammation, 
and gives tone and energy to the whole 
system. "Mrs. Winslow's Soothing Syrup" 
for children teething is pleasant to the taste 
and is the prescription of one of the oldest 
and best female physicians and nurses in 
the United States, and is for sale by all 
druggists throughout the world. Price, 
twenty-five cents a bottle. Be sure and ask 
for " Mrs. Winslow's Soothing Syrup." - 



m^^9999^f99^9^^^9^^^99999^^^i 



It's Friendly, 

make yourself familiar with it. 
Trial quantity for tine asking. 




Used by owners of valuable Plate 
for more than a quarter century. 

Electro-Silicon Silver Soap 

for washing and polishing Silver and Glass- 
ware has equal merits. At Grocers and 
Druggists. Postpaid, 15 cts. (stamps). 

"Silicon," 30 Cliff Street, I'ew York. 







Enameled ware 
Beyond compare — 
Quadruple coated 
Stransky Ware. 







Enameled on Armor Plate Steel it resists 
hard usage — one piece outlasts a half dozen 
imitations. No seams to rust — it's PURE, 
BEAUTIFUL, CLEANLY. When a dealer 
says: "This is imported" — tketis the time to 

see if the label reads Stransky 

Steel Ware. 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xvii 



Household Hints 



Secret of Longevity 
vSir James Sawyer, a well-known 
physician of Birmingham, has been 
confiding to an audience in that town 
the secret of longevity. Keep the 
following nineteen commandments, 
and Sir James sees no reason why 
you should not live to be loo: — 

1. Eight hours' sleep. 

2. Sleep on your right side. 

3. Keep your bedroom window open 
all night. 

4. Have a mat to your bedroom 
door. 

5. Do not have your bedstead 
against the wall. 

6. No cold tub in the morning, but 
a bath at the temperature of the 
body. 

7. Exercise before breakfast. 

8. Eat httle meat and see that it 
is well cooked. 

9. (For adults.) Drink no milk. 

10. Eat plenty of fat, to feed the 
cells which destroy disease germs. 

11. Avoid intoxicants, which de- 
stroy those cells. 

12. Daily exercise in the open air. 

13. Allow no pet animals in your 
living rooms. They are apt to carry 
about disease germs. 

14. Live in the country if you can. 



15. Watch the thrge D's, — drink- 
ing water, damp, and drains. 

16. Have change of occupation. 
Take frequent and short holi- 



17 
davs 



19. 



Limit your ambition; and 
Keep your temper. 



For long distance walking assume 
something of a bicycle hump, lean 
far forward, give no rush with the 
feet. Depend altogether for mo- 
mentum on the force exerted by 
gravity, which by your interruption 
of it serves to carry your body for- 
ward. 

You must also bear in mind that 
short rather than long steps are the 
rule, and also that the advancing foot 
must never touch the heel first, but 
always the toes and ball of the foot. 
Indeed, your gait has a sort of shuffle 
in it, and is not pretty, but is tre- 
mendously effective. — Neiv York Her- 
ald. 



One of the most attractive tea- 
rooms in Paris provides a tiny time- 
keeper with each pot of tea. It is in 
the form of an hour-glass, but smaller, 
and by its help the customer may 
know to a " t " when her cup is brewed. 



TO HOLD 



THE STOCKINGS 
UP OR THE 
CORSET DOWN 

YOU CAN RELY ON 





Sample pair, 
by mail, 25c. 
If your dealer is "up to date,'* he 
has the popular styles 
GEORGE FROST CO-, Makers, Boston, Mass. 



HOSE 
SUPPORTER 



CUSHION 
BUTTON 



The Name is on 
every Loopfll^^' 




When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

zviii 



Advertisements 




(goking-R^nges 



The Improved Dock-Ash Grate, perfected Fire- 
Box, and Single Damper (patented) furnish per- 
fect baking with less fuel than other ranges. 

It is easy to keep the fire overnight, and by a half-turn of the 
handle clear it in the morning as bright as if freshly kindled. 

The Cog-Wheels of this Improved Grate are out- 
side the fire-box, protected from heat and ashes. 

A CKAWFOWD sent on Thirty 'Days' Trial if there 
is no agent in your toWn. 

Send for Illustrated Circulars describing our various styles. 

WALKE.R. & PRATT MFG. CO., 

31=35 Union Street, Boston. 





When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 



Household Hints 



The Drawbacks of Sterilizing Milk 
The use of sterilized milk for the 
purpose of artificial infant-feeding 
is meeting with condemnation on 
all sides. Once looked upon as an 
epoch-making innovation, it is now 
abandoned by the majority of leading 
authorities. 

The author has drawn his conclu- 
sions from a study of 175 analyses 
of sterilized milk. It was found that 
milk, when subjected to high tempera- 
tures, gradually loses its normal odor 
and taste, becoming insipid. The fat 
globules undergo certain changes of 
a quantitative character. The sugar 
and the albuminous elements are like- 
wise altered. These changes are the 
results of high temperature. The 
milk thus altered in composition be- 
comes indigestible or else loses its 
vital properties. 

Prolonged employment of sterilized 
milk as an infant food lowers or com- 
pletely deranges metabolism; an extra 
strain is thrown on the digestive or- 
gans, paving the way for a host of dis- 
eases; the systemic nutrition is in- 
adequate, and the result is frequently 
constitutional disease. 

Finally, the much-vaunted germi- 
cidal value of sterilization is a com- 
plete illusion. This result can only 
be obtained by temperatures which 
render the milk useless for feeding. 



Cleanliness in handling and preserv- 
ing the milk are far more valuable. 



Either a Feast or a Famine 

A countryman in a restaurant or- 
dered roast lamb, and the waiter 
bawled to the cook: — 

"One lamb!" 

"Great Scott, mister," cried the 
countryman, "I can't eat no hull 
lamb. Gimme some fried oysters in- 
stead." 

"One fried oyster!" bawled the 
waiter. 

' ' Well, Methuselah 's ghost ! Mister, 
one fried oyster ain't going to be 
enough. Gimme a dozen of 'em. 
Durn these city eatin' places!" — Ex- 
change. 

When your apples all is gathered, and the 

ones a feller keeps 
Is poured around the cellar-floor in red and 

yeller heaps, 
And your cider-makin's over, and your wim- 

mern folks is through 
With their mince and apple-butter, and their 

souse and sausage, too, — 
I don't know how to tell it, but, if such a 

thing could be 
As the angels wantin' boar din', and they'd 

call around on me, 
I'd want to 'commodate 'em, the whole in- 

durin' flock, 
When the frost is on the pumpkin and the 

fodder's in the shock. 

James Whitcomb Riley. 



"TKey All 5ay 

I make the daintiest and delicious-esi desserts. I make them out of this new 

Minute Jella-Crysta 

It is all prepared and ready to put in just hot water and then set to cool 
in the mould. There are seven flavors, and they are every one of them 
just as nice as can be: orange. Lemon, Strawberry, Raspberry, 
Pistachio, Chocolate and Wild Cherry." 

Send five two-oent stamps and get a full-sized package of MINUTE 
Jella-Crysta and the celebrated MINUTE COOK BOOK;. 

CO 



Address Dept. s, WHITMAN GROCERY 
Orange, Mass. 

Manufacturers also of MINUTE Tapioca, MINUTH Gelatine, 
and MINUTE Malta-Coffeena. 




When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 



XX 



Advertisements 




^,^^^_^o^bo.Jed ham fine. Mix with' 



nne^^^™^^^ 



'"«'-*,„, „,„-„^f_avviSK^ 



Saten 

^ng with ml J -~«*ca 

cresses are moc 



'K m,j,„„ 



. , , These 

■■■'■- rr"-aiiMn- "'"'"— .ore ^ ""■"■- 



^f-iili!^!:2rs;or*e-;ea3.>y. When 



i^t'd-^e^P 



asparagn g 






on hf 



^t^' 



Halibut a la. Delmonica 

3 tablespoon fulji 
-L_tablespoonfuJ| 



'''-- ^'' "as/, 

Curry oflvj^i^ii^ 

J^fiupfuls of chop. 



Fig Pudding 



2 cupfiils of bred 
^f ,C^-v^ cupfuJs of 




Beef Spanish 

nely chor 






jystets 
■put ^^ 






boiler 



through 



Ibis 

Hamburg Steaks 

ik from the round 



V7VU 



No. loo 

with 

four knives, 

$i.5o 



L^y. 



'^/^Js 



1 tablespoonful of c 

2 or 3 drops of oni 

'evyy*<irK>rara may be ad 



— — Jsassai^ / 



°^^S^°^ V ®^^^^^ seasonin 



^€S^ 



Chop 



jjiful o 
,°f butter ^ 



y.?./"^,: 



Cold Slaw 



vc^ 



age and shred 



Sausages 

3 teaspoon 
/5v r-^-.. 2 teaspoon 

*0 ^>>.^ teaspoonf 

Stuffed Egg 

<^take 

**&A^PPed cooked 
4,- "^i^^lii "^eJted 



full 
2 teaspoonfuf 
m 




lS:^^^Iacoo^.edVa-<^ 



THE GREATEST OF ALL 
KITCHEN HELPS 

and savers is an Enterprise Food Chopper. It 
chops all kinds of food quickly, easily, uni- 
fornnly and to any desired size. It makes pos- 
sible many dainty dishes that could not be 
made without it. By utilizing left-over food 
it is a great saver— usually paying for itself in 
the first week or so. The 

ENTERPRISE 

FOOD CHOPPER 

is strong,durable,easily cleaned and cannot rust. 
Sold by all hardware, housefurnishing and de- 
partment stores. *^ Enterprise' 'on each machine. 
The recipes shown here are taken from "The Enterpris- 
ing Housekeeiper," a hook of 200 tested recipes by Helen 
Louise Jolmson, showing the many uses of the Enter- 
prise Food Chopper. Sent for 4c in stamps. 

THE ENTERPRISE MFG. CO. OF PA., Philadelphia, Pa. 



^ faf>/espc 



Pineapple Pie 

sugar 
fin 



^'-ried 



2 eggs 

1 small pi 



^Jy-ch 



f^^bbit 



""L!!!^ 



JUice 

Boudins 

lis of finely-chopped coo 

[Russia-'^ - ^( «i,^ 
Scra-pple 

In hog's head mtoja 
tnd thoron__ 






r^^'« 






f(/ 



Turkey Soup 






:,ooti 
^oon 






i22i!:«^SnS.^5s? 



Ham Relish 



•upful of cold boiled ham, chopped fine 
01 cream 
___Salt_ 

Lobster Salad 




'^r, 



ee 



1 cupfu 

3 tables 

of r^>^ an 

Fruu Sodat 



H 



Souffle 



chopped, cooked veal 



3 eggs 
2 tab! 
1 cupi 



Mutton Ragout 

2 cupfuls of cold chopped meat 
1 tablespoonful of butter 



1 cupful of stock 
J teas 



\ cool plac^><^ pi* v' — 



Nut Butter 



PU3r^!,::^.coac.o..e.U1 



9 CUpl , „ 

■ V "V \)utter 



1>^ o> 



il of 



Ham Canapes 

i cupful of 
Paprica to tast« 



chopped boiled ham 
" " * " -mesan cheese 



New York Hash 1 chop coid ^^'^^ 

lycnpful of cooked chopped meat take ku. SeW V^^?^"^ chicken meat inf 
)t chopped nntaicPi 9 t^Kioor^^^r^f Jii "^^^'ect the tender ^t ii ^'^^ 'nto 



Salad 



HI 



When you write advertisers,. please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xxi 



Household Hints 



! 

I 
1 

s 



DELICIOUS COFFEE 
EVERY DAY! 



You can have it wherever vou are, if you use an 
'• b.XCERPTA" Coffee-pot. Made in one 
minute. vSimply pour boiling water through 
the trap, and it's ready, — clear as wine, with a flavor 
surpassing anydiing you ever drank before. All arorna 
preserved, positively no odor of coffee until it is 
poured into the cup. 




If your dealer cannot supply you, send us his name, and 

we will send vou a copv of a famous picture and facts 
about the " EXCERPTA." 

HOUSEHOLD nFQ. CO., 790 Dun Building, 
Buffalo, N.Y. 




Fine Kitchens in Southern Homes 

Why should kitchens be always 
built at the back of the house, where 
the grass is trimmed down and slop 
pails accumulate? Why have a back 
of the house, an3^way, instead of two 
fronts, equally respected ? The writer 
recalls in Georgia a long brick house, 
with three front doors, one of them 
the kitchen door: you could look 
straight through the house in pleas- 
ant weather, because there were three 
other doors facing the ones that looked 
over the bay. 

The rose that was trained over the 
drawing-room ran along to the kitchen, 
and peeped in at the dear old mammy 
who sang there very often. To bal- 
ance things, the peach-tree that was 
trained, English fashion, on the sunny 
wall of the kitchen extended its pliant 
branches to the dining-room grape- 
vines 

Parsley grew in the violet borders, 
the cream smelled of roses, and the 
flavor of peach leaves that shamed 
the druggists' product lingered in the 
cake. 

The mistress could sit in the draw- 
ing-room and see the children coming 
home from school or guests driving 
up from either direction, and conse- 
quently a fresh handkerchief and 
collar were always ready. Dice}^ in 
the kitchen could always see them, 
too, and cake was on the plate and 
Zeke was in his dress-coat when the 
door-knocker rapped. 

And no one in that house knew the 
front or the back thereof. It was a 
kindly and original old Pennsylvania 
German who built a great sunny 
kitchen where the company room is 
generally placed because, he said, 
"mother" spent nearly all of her 
time in the kitchen, and she should 
have the best. He gained praise 
in his county, but no followers. 



Supply is unlimited, but it restswith 
us to apportion it to our wants. 



WHen you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School, Magazine. 



szu 



Advertisements 






an^TOi 



O N Au J//.C REDITU 




»^^ 






THE 



LOFTI5 »SY5TEM 



permits any person of honest intentions, 
no matter how far away they may live, to 
open a confidential Charge Account for a 
Diamond, Watch or other valuable article of 
jewelry, and pay the same in a series of 
easy monthly payments. 
illAiir i+ <c iSntti?* Write today for our illus- 
nOW It IS i;One: trated catalogue and 
from it select any article that you would like to 
'wear or ov/n; or, perhaps give to a loved one at 
Christmas. Your selection will at once be sent 
to your home, place of business or express office 
as you prefer. Examine it with all the care you 
'/liJ ^'^^ ; then, if it is all that you anticipated, and the 
^ -^ best value that you ever saw for the money, pay one- 
fifth of the price and keep it. The balance you may 
C/^lif send us in eight equal monthly payments. 

On the Other Hand, plyTeturn thraVt?cle"^at^o™r 
expense. Whether you buy or not, we pay all express and 
other charges — there is no expense to you, neither do you 
assume any risk or obligation whatever. We submit our 
goods on their merits, with absolute confidence that their 
I quality, low price and our easy terms will make you a 
ipleased customer. 



We are the largest house in the Diamond 
business. We are also one of the oldest- 
Est. 1858. We refer to any bank in America _ 
— ask your local bank how we stand in the busi- 
ness world. They will refer to their books of 
commercial ratings and tell you that we stand 
very high, and that our representations may be^ 
acccepted without a question. i 

Our GuaranteeCertificate Sroramond- , 

is the broadest and the strongest ever given by a' 
house of unquestioned responsibility. Our exchange'T'/A 
system is the most liberal ever devised, for it permits I ,(', J 
you to return any Diamond bought of us, and to get theV ' 
full amount paid, in exchange for other goods or a 
larger Diamond. 

An Account With Us ^^r^^^t'^ifs."^^^', 

charge no interest ; impose no penalties and create no 
publicity. Our customers use their charge accounts with 
us year after year, finding them a great convenience at 
such times as Christmas, birthdays, anniversaries, etc. 
We have no disagreeable preliminaries or vexatious de- 
lays. Everything is pleasant, prompt and guaranteed 
to be satisfactory. 



Vn**t» rfiMcfmoc Pl-anc "^iJl '^ot be complete until you have looked through, 
,lUUr Vrfllllidlllldid ridllo our new Christinas Catalogue, and considered what you 
ixVcan do in gift making in conjunction with the LOFTIS SYSTEM. The five dollar; 
iVvV which you might pay for something cheap and trifling, will make the first payment on, and put you in 
immediate possession of a beautiful Diamond or a Fine "Watch. ^Vith a very little money, 
you can make gifts that are commensurate with, and appropriate to the circumstances — for we re- 
quire but one-fifth of the price of any article when we deliver it to you. IF YOU PREFER TO 
►BUY FOR CASH we have a proposition to make which is thoroughly characteristic of our 
house. It is nothing less than our written agreement to return all that you pay for a Diamond— less ' 
ten per cent, at any time within one year. Vou might thus wear a fifty-dollar Diamond for a 
whole year, then send it back to us and get $45, making the cost of wearing a Diamond, less than 
ten cents per week. 

Write to=day for catalogue, 

LOFTIS BROS. O. CO. 

Diamonds — Watches— Jewelry 
Dept. F-160 92 to 98 State Street 

CHICAGO, ILL. 



I 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 



Household Hints 



THE YANKEE 

CorK Puller 

A Household 

Necessity 

Fastened up anywhere you wish — on 
the sideboard, ice-box, door frame, or 
wall — never mislaid. 

Pulls all corks instantly 

and without effort 
Simply moving the handle up 
and down not only draws the 
tightest cork, but also auto- 
matically discharges it from 
the machine — it is a me- 
chanical marvel. 
Removes corks clean — 
no bits left in bottle 
Remember the exasperat- 
ing work of opening tightly 
corked oil, catsup, medicine, 
and numerous other house- 
hold bottles, and realize that 
no woman should ever be 
obliged to struggle with a 
corkscrew. 

Sold everywhere, or sent direct, express prepaid, on 
receipt of price. After 30 days' trial, money cheer- 
fully refunded if not pleased. 

NicTcel Plated, $1.25. Silver Plated, $3.50 

For Hotel.t, etc.f with clamp for counter, 

nickel Plated, $'^.00 

Booklet for the asking. Order to-day from the Makers. 

THEGILCHBISTCO.,102 Lafayette St., Newark, N.J. 




Sawyer's 



Sold in 
Sprinkling 
Top Bottles. 




CRYSTAL 
BLUE 

Gives a 

beautiful tint 
to linens, 
laces, and re- 
stores the 
color to goods 
that are worn 
and faded. 



that you 

SAWYERS 

45 YEARS THE PEOPLE'S CHOICE. 



Growing Vegetables in Winter 
An ingenious woman, who became 
tired of failures with dehcate house 
plants in the winter, conceived the 
idea of turning her winter conserv- 
atory into a forcing house for early 
vegetables. A window of a small, 
sunny sewing-room was fitted with 
boxes, one above the other, and in 
this she has had the satisfaction of 
producing a winter vegetable garden. 
She has to-day flourishing beds of 
radishes and early lettuce, and is 
trying in two of the boxes to produce 
a dish of strawberries by February. 
The strawberry plants were set out 
in November, and have been carefully 
watched and watered. The berries 
are already in evidence, and, barring 
some mishap, will be lusciously ripe 
by St. Valentine's Day. "The ex- 
periment," she says, "has proved 
interesting, and it has been quite 
exciting to pick my own salad and 
radishes with snow on the ground." It 
is an experiment that any one, prob- 
ably, could equally well carry out 
who has a sunny window to devote 
to it. — New York Eveninq Post. 



A Delicate Hint 

Senator M. S. Quay tells an amus- 
ing story of the childhood of his daugh- 
ter, Miss Cora: — 

"We had a number of guests to 
dinner one night, and somehow, in 
serving a dish of chicken, I forgot my 
little daughter. She, disappointed, 
sat and gazed thoughtfully into her 
empty plate, not likmg to remind 
me of my oversight, not liking, either, 
to be left out of the chicken course. 
Finally, a thought struck her. She 
crumbled on her plate a piece of 
bread, and then she beckoned to the 
plate of chicken, saying coaxingly, 
in the sing-song tone that we use in 
attracting fowls to us: — 

"'Here, chick, chick, chick, chick. 
Here, chick, chick, chick, chick, chick! 
Here, chick! Here, chick!'" 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 



Advertisements 



Q^QSQQSQQgQ ^ 



:Q3SQgQgOQQ^ 



Ancient 
Kitchen Tools 

are all right for a museum. They 
have no place in the modern kitchen. 
It is just as reasonable to expect a 
harvest with a hand plow as good 
cooking from poor kitchen tools. 
We have a full supply of 

Up=to=Date 
Kitchen Appliances. 

They save Time, Money, Labor, each 
one saving many times the cost of the 
Utensil. Call and look over our 
Stock. Inquiries cheerfully answered. 
Address 

LEWIS & CONGER, 

130=132 West 42nd Street, 
NEW YORK. 



Thei< 



Universal" 



FOOD CHOPPER 

Chops E^verything. 

pri:pare.s a gre.at vari- 
ety OF appetizing dishes 

QUICKLY AND E,ASILY. ^ ^ 

Sold by HARDWARE STORES. 
" Universal " Cook Book No, 6 Free. 





7:a^j BOSTON ' 

COOKING SCHOOL 




The BOSTON COOKINQ=SCHOOL nAGAZINE,$i.ooayear 

JANET McKENZIE HILL, Editor 

An authority on all that pertains to culinary matters. It should be 
in every home. 



PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING 



$2.oo net 



The latest complete cook-book. Over 900 pages. Beauti- 
fully illustrated with half-tone and colored plates. 

" I like your ' Practical Cooking and Serving ' more than any book I have, 
and I have about forty." — Mrs. A. E. K., Alabama. 

SALADS, SANDWICHES, AND CHAFING- 
DISH DAINTIES ..... $1.50 

Dainty and useful. 250 pages. 50 half-tone illustrations. 

The above will be sent, postpaid, on receipt of price, together 
with a suitably inscribed card if intended as a gift. Or they 
will be sent in combination to the same or different addresses, 
as follows : — 

$2.50 
2 00 
350 



The Magazine for one year and " Practical Cooking and Serving " for 
The Magazine for one year and the Salad Book for . . . . 
The Magazine for one year and the two books for . . . . 



(The subscription to the magazine must be a new one.) 
In ordering, you may feel assured of receiving the best culinary works yet published. 



Address 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE, Boston, Massachusetts 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cookixg-School INIagazine. 



XXV 



Household Hints 



OLIVE GROVE 




FROM THE 
TO YOU 








SYLMAR 

PLIVE OIL, 

FROM 

CALIFORNIA 

If you buy from us or from your dealer, you are sure 
of getting the very finest and purest olive oil direct from 
our works in the grove where the olives grew and ripened. 
Sylmar Olive Oil retains all the rich, fruity flavor of su- 
perior California olives, and is sold under a S1,000 guar- 
antee of pui ity. 

FOR MEDICINA.Z, USES 

Two tablespoontuls of Sylmar Olive Oil contains 
more nourishment ihan a pound of meat, because it is 
wholly assimilated without taxing the digestiv*^ organs, 
and IS palatable. Our booklet gives physicians' direc.i ions 
for medicinal uses, cooking recipes, and Government 
recommendation. Booklet and sample bottle for 10 cents 
postage. 

BUT of DEAI,ERS or DIRECT 

Send post-office or express money order for §3, and we 
will deliver, prepaid, three gl (quart) bottles at any ex- 
press office in the United States. Give dealer's name, and 
we will offer him an agency. 

Los Angeles Olive Growers' Association 
314 Bradbury Block Los Angeles, Cal. 



EVERYBODY KNOWS 

. . . THAT ... 

FLEISGHMANN&GO.'S 
COMPRESSED YEAST 



»- 



HAKES THE 
BEST BREAD 



Perhaps yoti don't know that it also 
makes the finest FANCY CAKE of 
numerous kinds* 

Send postal card to us at 70 J Washing-- 
ton St*, N, Y* City, mention Boston 
Cookmgf-School Magfazine, and we will 

p£>^''^c*^'?P^ °r^ °"' ^°°^ ''CHOICE 
KtUTJES'' free of cost. 



Ponce de Leon's Fountain is found 

A Brooklyn physician sixty-two 
years old has renewed his youth hke 
the eagle by drinking from three to 
four quarts of water every day. He 
can do feats of flexibility now that 
he could not at twenty-one. 

Water is as much needed for the 
internal bath as it is for the external, 
and without it the inner man cannot 
be cleanly. 

Without enough water the tissues 
get too dry, the blood thick and slug- 
gish, and the waste matters are not 
expelled, but retained and circulated 
about, defiling the blood. 

This is the history of nearly all 
diseases, and is called "auto-intoxi- 
cation" in medical dictionaries. 

Without enough water the body 
starves, water being from 60 to 70 
per cent, of the entire body weight. 

The time to drink water is not at 
meals. 

Drink two glassfuls immediately 
on rising and two before going to bed, 
three in the morning and three in 
the afternoon. 

Don't drink v/ithin half an hour 
before meal-time nor two hours after. 

The water drinker cultivates a clear 
complexion with every glassful, wards 
off rheumatism, constipation, and a 
great many other hideous diseases, 
and, best, last, and most of all, old age. 



At a smart wedding in London 
instead of rice a silvery shower of 
tiny horseshoes and little shoes 
(human) were thrown after the bridal 
pair. Silver sounds hard, almost as 
hard as rice; but it was only silver 
paper, and therefore harmless. 



^bese trade-mark crli 

Olut 

BARIX 

Perfect Breakfast 
^ANSy PLOU 

Uolike an 
I For 




es on evexy packagt. 



ts 



STALS, 

Health Cereala. 
Cake aod Pastrf * 

Ask Grooen» 
write 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazink. 

zzvi 



Advertisements 




^n 



BTKTMSPrGEDIJN 



The ONE Perfect 
DESSERT JELLY 

DELICIOUS and pure. The rea- 
son Bromangelon is so superior is 
that the materials used are the best ob- 
tainable. Refined by a method all our 
own. 

FLAVORS : Lemon, Orange, Raspberry, Straw- 
berry, and Cherry, 13 cents the Package. 

AT ALL LEADING GROCERS. 

Illustrated booklet FREE. 
STERN & SAALBERG, Manufacturers, New York 



WELGHS 




NATURE'S FINEST 
FOOD AND DRINK. 

Six large presses of 80 tons pressure extract 
the juice of choicest Concord grapes. The 
Kilce ]9 quickly sterilized and sealed in glasa. 
other process is different from any 

Welch's Grape Juice is a home necessity— In 
the modicine chest, as a table beverage on 
the sideboard and in the kitchen; but the 
more J'ou use it as a beverage and in makinff 
desserts, the less need of it as a medicine and 
the less need of other medicines. Welch's 
18 absolutely pure and unfermented. 

Booklet with recipes free. 3-oz bottie by mail 10c. 
Welch 8 IS soM by druggists and fancy grocers. If 
your de.ler will nnt supply y^u send $3 for trial 
uozen pints by express, prepaid, east cf Omaha. 





% V 3 



'I M. 



--^, 



Better 

than 

Honey 

for 

Less Money 

A bee will leave the sweet- 
est blossoms for Karo Corn 
Syrup. Though lower in 
cost Karo Corn Syrup is 
equal to honey in flavor, and 
superior to it in purity and 
nutritive value. 

Rgro 

CORN SYRUP 



is a pure, clear, wholesome syrup 
' made of tlie grain of llie corn and 
retaining- tlie full nutritneut of this 
most nutritious of all cereals. The 
best syrup for every purpose where 
a syrup is used. 

Sold in 10c, 25c and 50c friction-top tins. 
If you cannot get Karo Corn Syrup 
at your grocer's, please send us a postal 
giving his name and address. 

" Karo in the Kitchen " a new book 
of original receipts written for Karo 
Corn Syrup, sent free upon request. 

CORN PRODUCTS CO., 

NcYV York and Clilcajj;©. 



When you write advertisers, 



mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 
xzvii 



Household Hints 




MOTHERS WANT TO USE 

that which will keep the baby's skin soft 
and free from skin diseases. 

OLIVE OIL 

is recognized as the one thing in toilet arti- 
cles to do It. 

Carmel vSoap 

is made wholly of 
Ptire, Siveet Olive Oil 

and made right where the olives grow, at 
Mount Carmel, Palestine. Nothing can be 
more necessary to the nursery than such a 
soap 

Sold by Drugffists and Leading Grocers. 

Imported by A. KLIPSTEIN & CO., 
122 Pearl Street, New York. 



*••• THE •••• 

"KITCHEN AND HAND" 

• • • ^ v/r\ t^ • • • 




For removing Tar, Pitch, Cement, Varnish, Paint, Axl« 
Grease, Blacking, and all impurities from the hands, it is 
unequaled, leaving the skin soft, white and smooth. 

Beware of Imitations. For Sale by all Grocers. 



CHAS. F. BATES & CO. 

Proprietors and Manufacturers, 

Office, 123 Oliver St., . - - Bostea 



To insure a Graceful Carriage 

To raise the crown of the head as 
high as possible and then try to make 
the chest meet the chin will make 
a graceful carriage, smaller stomach, 
a fuller chest and more lung power. 
To reach either above the head as 
far as possible or to the floor without 
bending the knees will decrease the 
size of the waist and round it, also 
fill in the hollows in front of the arms. 



When one recognizes the fact that 
olives can be grown profitably from 
Mount Shasta to San Diego on lands 
that are now used for sheep ranges, 
and that can be had per acre for a $5 
gold piece ; when we note that a large 
portion of European immigrants are 
of the Latin races, bringing with 
them their tastes and habits and 
transmitting the same to their chil- 
dren; when we know, as we do now, 
that ever since civilization began 
to make headway, and perhaps be- 
fore that, olives and their product 
were largely the food supply of nearly 
all the children of the Orient, as it 
is destined to be in the near future 
that of the Occident — with such pros- 
pects for a market for olives and their 
products, there does not seem to be 
an immediate likelihood of overdoing 
the olive culture in our State. Thirty 
years ago tomatoes were looked upon 
with suspicion. Now more are con- 
sumed than any other vegetable 
except potatoes. It will be the same 
with olives thirty years hence. — San 
Francisco Call. 



THE OLD RELIABLE 



Carburet of 
Iron" 



DIXON'S 
Stove Polish. 

Never turns Red or Rusts your Stoves. 
Jos. Dixon Crucible Co., - Jersey City, N.J 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xrriii 



Advertisements 



ciL:=35p 





Success 



Is not always obtained by 
using the proper ingredients 
or the skill of the cook, but 
by having the right sort of 
tools to work with. We keep 
all the up-to-date inventions 
and devices for cooking. 

Our store is noted for its 
fine assortment of novelties. 
Moulds, Cutters, Casseroles, 
Madeleines, Bordure, 
Tartelette, Savarins. 

Specialties in China and 
Glass Moulds made to our 
order in Europe. 

F. A. Walker & Co., 

83-85 Comhill, Boston, 
Mass. Scollay Square 
Subway Station. 








BREAD MAKING 
MADE EASY. 

',?? "INIVI6RSAL" 

Bread Maker ii>i Raiser 

you can* mix and knead 
Bread thoroughly 

In 3 Minutes. 

Hands do not touch the dough. ^ 
Easy to Clean. A Child can Work It. 
Does away witb Hand Kneading. 
MAKES BEHER BREAD. 
Sent anywbere in 
the United States 
prepaid for $3.00. 

Your dealer sells 
it for lessl 

Booklet "C" Free 

landers, Frary & Ctark 

New Britain. Ct ^' 




S M 



S«* 



Make 

Your Own 

Mince Meat 

Then you know what's in it. 
Sargent's Gem Food Chopper 
does all the hard part of the 
work; doing the rest is only a 
pleasure. Chops fine enough 
for peanut butter, coarse enough 
for chow-chow or an^'where be- 
tween. For transforming the 
"left-overs" of yesterday into 
the delicacies of to-day 

Sargents 

Food 
Chopper 

is a veritable kitchen wizard. 

Sold at hardware and house- 
furnishing stores. Send for cloth- 
bound Gem Cook book, free. 

SARGENT & CO., 
148 Leonard St. New York. 



When you write aUvenisers, please mention The Boston Cookinq-Schooii Magazine, 



Household Hints 




" While Mama is busy getting ready for Christ- 
mas Dinner I am preparing the Jell=0. I can 
do it as well as she. I am going to add some 
candied cherries to this, but the addition of any 
fruit or nuts makes a nice change. Why don't 
you try some for your Christmas Dinner ? Every- 
body likes it." 

Four Fruit Flavors: Lemon, Orange, Straw- 
berry and Raspberry. 

The Genesee Pure Food Co., Le Roy, N.Y. 



rGeC»e3£KX3GGGt300e3Q0€3GOO0OOGe3e3O0QeX3OOO000OC» 
TOURNADE'S I 

KITCHEN BOUQUET 



^o Years 




a Favorite ! 



For SOUPS, SAUCES, GRAVIES,! 
ROASTS, STEWS, ENTREES! 

AND GENERAL CULINARY PURPOSESj 

Imparts a Rich Color and Delightful Flavor. Thei 
Kitchen Garden Condensed and Ready for Instant; 
Use. Keeps in Any Climate. Used and endorsed by i 
Great Chefs and Eminent Teachers of Cookery. j 

" Housekeeping would be a burden without it.'- Sarah 
Tyson Roker. 

"I know of no other kitchen luxury which is so near a 
necessity."— Helen Armstrong. 

"Invaluabletothehousekeeper."— Mary J. Lincoln. 

" Indispensable to all savory dishes."— Janet M. Hill. 

" Indispensable to all up-to-date housekeepers."— Alice 
Cart Waterman. ,^ ^, .^, 

" Have used it for last ten years and would not be with- 
out it "—Emily M. Colling. 

"A necessity to all good cooking."— E. LaPerkuque, 
Head Chef, Delinonlco's. 



If your grocer doesn't keep it, insist on his getUng it for you. 

WRITE FOR FREE SAMPLE AND BOOKLET \ 

Send 30 cents in stamps for prepaid package. 



The PALISADE MANUFACTURING CO. 

251 Clinton Avenue, West Hoboken, N.J. 

}. — The word "Kitchen Bouquet" is exclusively c 
trade-mark. Infringements will be prosecuted. 

OQUOOaOOOOOOOGQOOOQQQQQQQI 



When Mother Goes Away 

When mother goes a-visiting, 

There's lots uv things to do, 
An' fur a week or so ahead 

She's in a reg'lar stew. 
She says she's got to clean the house, 

An' labors night an' day 
At cleanin', scrubbin', pickin' up, 

Afore she goes away. 

She goes up in the garret fust, 

An' keeps a-workin' down. 
An' cleans down to the cellar shelves. 

An' does the thing up brown. 
Poor pa, he don't know what to do, 

Jes' worries night and day; 
Ma says he ain't no good to help 

Afore she goes away. 

We live a week on "picked-up" meals, 

"Hard-pickin', too," says pa; 
An' then he trembles at the look 

Uv scorn he gets from ma. 
Pa drives her to the railroad train, 

A-feelin' fur from gay; 
An' by an' by the train comes in, 

An' ma, she goes away. 

An' then we find our troubles jes' 

Begin that very day; 
An' things ma baked to last a month 

Like bubbles fade away. 
An' soon we hve from hand to mouth, 

An' pine an' all grow thin, 
An' we are tickled mos' to death 

When ma comes home ag'in. 

— Joe Cone, in Food Topics. 



If a cork should be a trifle too large 
for the neck of a bottle, drop it into 
boiling w^ater for three minutes, and 
it w^ill be found to fit quite easily. 



ROSETTE IRONS 

50 centst 
postage 20 cents 

These are the 
irons which 
lately have be- 
come so popu- 
teachers and in cooking 
schools in all parts of the country. For full 
particulars and also catalogue of other Scandi- 
navian and German cake irons, please address 
ALFRED ANDRESEN & COMPANY 
Department BC, Minneapolis, Minn. 
Lady agents can sell dozens among friends. 




lar among cooking 



When you write ad vertisers^ please mention The Boston Cookxng-School Magazine. 



Advertisements 



Driftwood Blaze | 



'f~Y 









1% 



^^ " O/i / Mama, see the Rainbow." 

A LITTLE of this wonderful powder sprinkled over ihe burning logs adds tlie beauties of the rainbow to the sunshine of an 
open wood fire. For mailing purposes, we have introduced this season a decorated Sifting Can, in which form 
Driftwood Blaze is more conveniently handled. 

- FOR GENERAL INFORMATION ADDRESS 



Dunbar Driftwood Blaze Co. 

Where Ttnily Demonstrations Are Given. 



21 Br ovi field St., Boston, Mass 




S T A N D ARD 

ROTARY SHUTTLE 
Sewing MacHines 

Do both lock and chain stitch work. 

We aim to make the finest machines 

in the world. We employ no agents 

or canvassers, and do not send machines 

out on suspicion. 

We rent, repair, and sell for cash or 

on rental-purchase plan. 
SPECIAL NOTICE. "Stitchwhll" ClA 7C 
small hand machines for travellers . . "P ■"• * •^ 
Write for circulars. 

STANDARD SEWING MACHINE CO. 

GENERAL OFFICES, 

173 Tremont St., Boston 

Write for elegant 50-page catalogue 
and mention this magazine. 




When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

XXJO. 



Household Hints 



6Thmk 



"lou'll not only think more clearly and easily, but 
you'll also think you never drank anything so deli- 
cious and satisfying, when you have a cup of 

HOOTON'S Cocoa 

It's a nutrient, building up body and brain— the 
drink for thinkers and workers. 

. Sample free for grocer's name, or full 10c. can, 
for 8 cent3 in stamps and grocer's name. 

HOOTON COCOA AND CHOCOLATE COMPANY. 
Newark, N, J., U. 8. A. 




THE BREAST FOR BABY. 
Tbe Cell for Food 



On sale by all 
druggists. Com- 
plete bottle, by 
mail. 38c. In or- 
dering, address 
Dept. B. 



Hy^eia Nursing Bottle Co., Buffalo, N. 





BUY THE CELEBRATED 

CHAMBERLIN 
STEAM COOKER 

Cooks Everything. 

Used on a gas, coal, or oW stove, it will 
cook a big dinner with but flame enough 
to keep 2 quarts water boiling. It will 
do the every-day cooking wiih least pos- 
sible trouble and gives out no odor. Un- 
surpassed as a Fruit Canner, for which 
directions go with each Cooker, and it is 
used extensively as a Sterilizer. 
The best in the world. Send /or circular 

S. W. Chamberlin Co. 

Office and Manufactory, 25 Union Street 
BOSTON, MASS. 



DR. STEDMAN'S 

/- Teething Powders -^ 

Used by mothers the world over for nearly half a century. 
Not a sootliing remedy, but a Teetliinc Powder, abso- 
lutely safe and harmless. Dr. Arthur H. Hassall, of the 
Analytical Institution, London, England, in his report on 
these Powders, writes : '•'• Absolutely free from morphia or 
any other alkaloid or constituent of opium. Thus Sted- 
man's Teething Powder is favorably distinguished from 
similar preparations."— \rt\iur H. Hassall, M. I». 

A Kum laneet, the trademark, is on every packet and 
on every powder, none otherwise genuine. 

Having a branch in the United States re- '^h 
duces the cost to 25 cents for a packet of TRADE 
nine powders. Atmost druggists ormailed OEI 
on receipt of price. 

Book of testimonials and Dr. Stedman's Pamphlet, 
" T/ie Nursery Doctor," sent free on request. Address 
J. G. MaeW ALTER, Germantown, Phila., Pa. 

Home Office, 125 New North Road, Hoxton, London, Eng. 

Kindly mention this paper. 



Recreation and Business Combined 

In these days of strenuous effort, 
where gigantic enterprises are the one 
absorbing question wearing to the 
extreme on one's vital forces, and 
with the whirl and excitement of the 
busy city with its crowded, noisy 
streets, there can be no rest. The 
close application which is demanded 
of the business man makes it neces- 
sary that he be healthy, hence the 
demand for resorts, the environments 
of which tend to that aim. Half a 
day of golf, a brisk walk through the 
pines, or to indulge in any one of the 
numerous out-of-door sports, sort of 
braces one up, b^t the trouble is, 
where is there a place having just 
these opportunities. 

A ninety -minute railroad ride takes 
you to Lake wood, the most famous, 
the most popular resort known for 
the business man. A perfect at- 
mosphere, a healthful climate, de- 
lightful surroundings, fine hotels, and 
a select social following are the quali- 
ties Lakewood possesses, and the 
resort is reached by the New Jersey 
Central. Its trains are fast and fre- 
quent, and coaches and parlor cars 
are of the latest design. If you 
are interested in Lakewood, send to 
C. M. Burt, G. P. A., 143 Liberty 
Street, New York City, for book No. i : 
it's free for the asking. 



Congress Bread 
One quart of sifted flour, one even 
teaspoonful of salt, three teaspoonfuls 
of Congress Baking Powder. Mix these 
thoroughly together, and add sweet 
milk or water, to make a soft dough, 
and bake at once. 



BREAD MACHINE 

For Household Usb. 
Sifts the flour and mixes lo pounds 
of best bread in three minutes. Sold 
subject to trial and approval. Send 
for Booklet. Agents wanted. 
Scientific Bread Machine Co. 

(Cyrus Chambers, Jr.) 
52d and Media Sts., Philadelphia 




When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

ZZXtt 



$1.00 A YEAR 



lO CENTS A COPY 



THEy BOSTON- 

CGDKIKG- SCHOOL 
MACAZIKE> 

OF CUMNAICr ^OIE/NCE> AND 
DOMfySTIO E/OOKOMIO«/ 





VOL. VIII 



JANUARY, 1904 



No. e 




THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 
372 Boylston Street, Boston, MstssacKtisetts 



yright, 1903, by the Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



Entered at Boston Post-office as second-claSvi matter 



M^^M 



t1 



"Where Purity fs Paramount 









(The 

Packing 

Room. 

Here the Checkerboard 
labels are put around 
the packages and sealed, 
to keep the foods fresh 
and pure.) 

Says the Miller: 

"I have made about Twelve 
Million Checkerboard Packages of foods 
the past year and on New Year's Day I 
make just one resolve — the same each 
year; to make each package as good as 
the last; I can't make it any better. 
"Suppose you try delicious Ralston 
Breakfast Food to-morrow morning. 
The folks who cat Ralston every day know that 
I keep my resolution." 



Free! For Office, Parlor or Study— Printed on fine Art Paper, bear- 
ing no advertisement. It Is just a bit of tlie Miller's fine, quaint philosophy 
handsomely printed. Send either 2c. in stamps or the top of any Checkerboard 
.^^^^^^— ___ package to Ralston Purina Co.. St. Louis. 

Riklstoa 

Purina ffoops 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 




TKli mis YEA^ 






CORA A. MATSON DOLSON 



The 
Boston Cooking-School Magazine 

Vol. VIII. JANUARY. No. 6. 

UNDER GRAY SKIES 




CROSS the cheerless^ wind-swept waste, 
Under gray skies, we wend our way : 
No sign of life this wintry day 
In sky above or earth below,- — 
Naught but bare boughs and drifting snow. 

Yet soon the miracle of May 
Shall arch the heavens in tender blue. 
And clothe these naked boughs anew ; 
Shall sprinkle all the meadows over 
With buttercups and honeyed clover. 

Dear, let us check the rising tear. 

Grief cannot always rend the heart. 

If we of nature be a part ; 

A Httle while, and then life's May ! 

We must be glad somewhere — some day. 

LUCIA W. EAMES 



Under the Dragon Lanterns 



By Jessie Juliet Knox 





The honored Son of the House 

TO the Californian who desires 
to study the Chinese, an 
excellent opportunity is given 
m the Chinatown of San Fran- 
cisco, where one may go at any time, 
and feel as if he had been suddenly 
transported to the Flowery Kingdom 
itself. And to come into personal 
contact with the "heathen Chinee," 
certainly does broaden our ideas, 
and make us know that, after all, 
the spark divine may dwell in all; 
for one may have just as stanch a 
friend in a high-binder or a little 
cigarette-smoking Chinese lady as 
in a native of the Occident. We 
have not known the Chinese in their 
home life, or indeed in any sphere, 



save in books, from whose pages we 
have gained the idea that the Chinese 
are irreclaimable heathen, always 
bowing to idols. But when one goes 
among this strange people, showing 
friendship and interest in them, he 
soon finds the facts quite different. 

Having had the pleasure of a per- 
sonal friendship with the former 
Chinese consul and his sister, who is 
the wife of Wu Ting Fang, ex-min- 
ister at Washington, we have had 
exceptional opportunities for study- 
ing the high-caste Chinese, as well 
as the low, and we find them full of 
interest. Madame Wu, as many of 
us know, is a sweet and cultured 
lady, with a most charming person- 
ality; and one must always feel en- 
nobled for having come in contact 
with such a character. The wives 
of the official class are free to go and 
come as they choose; but, strangely 
enough, they choose to remain quietly 
at home, in the society of their maids 
and children, with occasional visits 
to other high-class Chinese, and going 
to the temple, perhaps, twice a year 
and to the theatre as rarely. The 
aristocratic Chinese ladies have the 
"little feet," and could not walk 
about much, if they desired; and so 
the majority of them are seemingly 
content to remain in their tiny, doll- 
like apartments near the roof, mak- 
ing tea, attending to the wants of 
their children, and embroidering rich 
and beautiful garments of different 
kinds to be worn at the festival of 
the New Year, the feast of the lan- 
terns, the moon festival, the burning 
of the devil, etc. We who are free 
cannot begin to realize the childish 
ecstasy with which these dear little 
ladies and children of the Orient 



Under the Dragon Lanterns 



287 



look forward to the different festivals. 
And why? Because it is always de- 
lightful to escape from prison bars, 
to look up into the blue sky, and to 
breathe the pure air of freedom. 

It is best to visit Chinatown during 
one of these holiday occasions; for 
then we can see all classes, and the 
narrow, picturesque streets are aglow 
with the vivid colors of the holiday 
robes of Chinese femininity. Then 
one may see the aristocratic ladies, 
assisted by their pretty little maids, 
wending their way to the house of 
a friend, to the theatre, restaurant, 
joss house, etc., and all chattering 
and giggling in that dear little way 
so characteristic of Chinese women 
and girls. At these times 
the narrow streets are lined ^^'''• 

with the pink loveliness of 
the sacred almond blossom, 
the snowy beauty of the 
narcissus or Chinese lily, 
and the men on the streets 
are kept busy in selling 
these flowers. 

No home would be com- 
plete, at this time, without 
bulbs of Chinese lilies in a 
bowl of water with stones, 
and the stems tied with red 
paper, to frighten away 
evil spirits. The fragrance 
of these flowers, mingled 
with the incense ever burn- 
ing for the gods, is fairly 
intoxicating. 

Not only on the streets 
do we see these bits of 
Celestial femininity, but al- 
ways, if one will but glance 
upward, he will see far 
above him on the carved 
balconies, gay with flowers 
and swaying dragon lan- 
terns, pretty faces shyly 
peeping through the flow- 
ers, and gazing down with 



childish absorption and interest at the 
swaying mass below, the people of all 
nations ; for these one can always see 
in cosmopolitan San Francisco. And 
it is not unusual to be pelted with a 
velvety shower of perfumed almond 
blossoms, to see a brown dimipled 
hand withdrawn, and to hear a shy 
Chinese giggle. 

In the windows of rich and poor 
alike red candles are burning, de- 
noting joy; and the omnipresent 
little bowl of sand is set at every 
door, stuck full of punk sticks, whose 
ends are kept lighted and are ever 
giving forth that peculiar, permeating 
odor of Oriental incense. 

Perhaps the most picturesque bit 




Little-footed Maidens in Festal Robes 



288 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



of all is the child's part of the festival. 
Tea-rose babies, in beautiful tint 
and attire, toddle along or are car- 
ried by proud father or nurse. Chil- 
dren of all sizes, of high and low 
degree, one may see at these times. 
It is all so beautiful that it seems 
really a pity not to be able to repro- 
duce the scene for the delectation 
of our less fortunate friends who 




A Chinese Lady 

cannot see it. The Chinese ladies 
are averse, however, to having their 
pretty features perpetuated on card- 
board, and will hide their faces, when 
they recognize the familiar camera, 
which to them is full of evil spirits, 
ready to seize one at the pressing of 
the bulb. But the children are more 
ea